U.S. patent application number 13/009975 was filed with the patent office on 2012-01-26 for heating cosmetic treatment process using a particular polyester.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Philippe Ilekti, Veronique Schwartz.
Application Number | 20120020718 13/009975 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 42830136 |
Filed Date | 2012-01-26 |
United States Patent
Application |
20120020718 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Ilekti; Philippe ; et
al. |
January 26, 2012 |
HEATING COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS USING A PARTICULAR POLYESTER
Abstract
Non-therapeutic process for making up and/or caring for
non-fibrous human keratin materials, especially the skin, its
mucous membranes or the nails, by bringing an outer surface of a
piece of a particular solid cosmetic composition into contact with
or close to a heating device so as to heat the piece locally in
order to soften essentially only the outer surface and to lower its
coefficient of dynamic friction, and then applying the outer
surface of the composition thus heated to the region to be
treated.
Inventors: |
Ilekti; Philippe;
(Maison-Alfort, FR) ; Schwartz; Veronique;
(Chatenay Malabry, FR) |
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
42830136 |
Appl. No.: |
13/009975 |
Filed: |
January 20, 2011 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
61300459 |
Feb 2, 2010 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
401/1 ;
132/200 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q 1/06 20130101; A45D
40/08 20130101; A61K 8/02 20130101; A45D 2200/155 20130101; A61K
8/85 20130101; A45D 2200/25 20130101; A61K 8/37 20130101; A61K
2800/24 20130101; A61K 8/92 20130101; A45D 40/00 20130101; A61K
8/0229 20130101; A45D 40/02 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
401/1 ;
132/200 |
International
Class: |
A45D 40/18 20060101
A45D040/18; A45D 40/26 20060101 A45D040/26 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jan 22, 2010 |
FR |
10 50442 |
Claims
1. A process for making up and/or caring for a non-fibrous human
keratin material, comprising: bringing an outer surface of a piece
of a solid cosmetic composition into contact with or close to a
heating device so as to heat the piece locally in order to soften
essentially only the outer surface of the solid cosmetic
composition and to lower the solid cosmetic composition's
coefficient of dynamic friction, and applying the thus heated outer
surface of the composition to the non-fibrous human keratin
material, wherein the solid cosmetic composition comprises, in a
physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one polyester
obtained by reacting: a tetraol containing from 4 to 10 carbon
atoms; a linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid
containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms; a cyclic dicarboxylic acid
containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; and an aromatic
monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms, and (ii)
at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes and pasty
fatty substances.
2. The process according to claim 1, in which the polyester(s) is
obtained by reacting: from 10% to 30% by weight of a tetraol
containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; from 40% to 80% by weight of
a linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from
9 to 23 carbon atoms; from 5% to 30% by weight of a cyclic
dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; from 0.1%
to 10% by weight of an aromatic monocarboxylic acid containing from
7 to 11 carbon atoms, and the contents being expressed as weight
percentages relative to the total weight of the polyester.
3. The process according to claim 1, in which the polyester(s) are
chosen from benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/isostearic
acid/pentaerythritol polyesters, benzoic acid/isophthalic
acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polyesters, and mixtures
thereof.
4. The process according to claim 1, in which the composition
comprises at least two polyesters that are different from each
other.
5. The process according to claim 1, in which the composition
comprises from 1% to 60% by weight of polyester relative to the
total weight of the composition.
6. The process according to claim 1, in which the composition
further comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
7. The process according to claim 1, in which the composition
further comprises at least one oil with a molecular weight of
greater than 500 g/mol.
8. The process according to claim 1, in which the composition
further comprises a phenyl silicone oil.
9. The process according to claim 6, in which the oil is present in
a content of 1% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
10. The process according to claim 1, in which the solid cosmetic
composition has a temperature-sensitive coefficient of dynamic
friction greater than or equal to 0.5 at 25.degree. C.
11. The process according to claim 1, in which the solid cosmetic
composition has a hardness of greater than or equal to 80 Nm.sup.-1
at 20.degree. C.
12. The process according to claim 1, in which the locally heated
surface of the composition is heated to a temperature where the
coefficient of dynamic friction of the locally heated surface of
the composition is less than or equal to 0.45.
13. The process according to claim 1, in which the composition is
in the form of a wand.
14. The process according to claim 1, in which the keratin material
is the lips and the composition is a lipstick.
15. A kit comprising: a solid cosmetic composition comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one polyester
obtained by reacting: a tetraol containing from 4 to 10 carbon
atoms; a linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid
containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms; a cyclic dicarboxylic acid
containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; and an aromatic
monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms, and (ii)
at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes and pasty
fatty substances, and a heating device for locally heating a
surface of a piece of the composition.
Description
REFERENCE TO PRIOR APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims priority to U.S. provisional
application Ser. No. 61/300,459, filed Feb. 2, 2010; and to French
patent application 10 50442, filed Jan. 22, 2010, both incorporated
herein by reference.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The present invention relates to the field of making up
and/or caring for human keratin materials and more particularly the
skin and/or the lips, and in particular a makeup process comprising
a step of heating, prior to application, of a composition
comprising at least one particular polyester and a solid fatty
substance.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0003] The development of formulations, in particular in solid
form, intended for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the
lips, which have satisfactory properties in terms of application,
especially of glidance and of amount deposited, and whose
deposition onto keratin materials (in particular the skin and/or
the lips) is satisfactory in terms of gloss, comfort and remanence
of the colour, is a permanent objective.
[0004] Document FR 2 917 616 discloses cosmetic compositions
containing polyesters combined with standard volatile oils such as
isododecane, for obtaining, after application to keratin materials,
especially the lips, a relatively glossy makeup deposit that shows
acceptable remanence properties.
[0005] However, it is always desirable to further improve the
remanence of the deposit of such compositions when they are applied
to keratin materials, in particular such that the deposit formed
conserves its integrity and remains homogeneous for 2 or 3 hours,
or even for 4 or 6 hours, and does not show any tendency to become
brittle or to fragment, in particular on contact with fatty
substances, in particular during a meal, or on contact with saliva.
Furthermore, in the case of lipstick compositions, it is desirable
to improve the gloss of the deposit of such compositions on the
lips.
[0006] Furthermore, polyesters are very viscous, and the resulting
solid compositions are generally very tacky on contact with the
skin or the lips, and thus difficult to apply, not making it
possible to obtain a thick, uniform deposit. They glide poorly and
disintegrate with difficulty.
[0007] It is thus sought to obtain solid compositions (which are in
particular compatible with conditioning as a wand or in another
solid form) comprising such polyesters, which are stable, which are
easy to apply (good glidance) on the skin or the lips, and which
form a deposit that shows good remanence properties over time, and
optionally good gloss properties in the case of lipstick
compositions, and which are comfortable.
[0008] An object of the invention is, precisely, to provide a novel
makeup and/or care method that can satisfy all the abovementioned
requirements.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0009] The description of the present invention is made in part
with reference to the attached drawings, in which:
[0010] FIG. 1 shows schematically, in elevation, an example of a
conditioning and application device made in accordance with the
invention,
[0011] FIG. 2 shows in isolation, with partial and schematic
longitudinal cutaway, the cap of the device of FIG. 1,
[0012] FIG. 3 illustrates, schematically and partially, the heating
of the wand by contact with a hot surface,
[0013] FIG. 4 represents, schematically and partially, one
embodiment example of the heating member,
[0014] FIGS. 5 to 7 illustrate production details of variants of
heating members,
[0015] FIG. 8 represents, schematically, an embodiment variant of
the conditioning and application device,
[0016] FIG. 9 is a schematic and partial cutaway of the device of
FIG. 8, after insertion in the corresponding housing of the
case,
[0017] FIG. 10 shows a wand and associated support means,
[0018] FIG. 11 shows in elevation an embodiment variant of the
conditioning and application device,
[0019] FIG. 12 is a partial and schematic longitudinal cutaway of
the device of FIG. 11,
[0020] FIG. 13 is a partial and schematic longitudinal cutaway of
an embodiment variant of the device,
[0021] FIG. 14 is a product conditioning variant, and
[0022] FIG. 15 described previously illustrates the measurement of
the coefficient of dynamic friction.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0023] Thus, according to a first of its aspects, a subject of the
invention is a non-therapeutic process for making up and/or caring
for human keratin materials, especially the skin or the lips, in
which: [0024] an outer surface of a piece of cosmetic composition
that is solid at 20.degree. C. is brought into contact with or
close to a heating device so as to heat the piece locally in order
to soften essentially only the outer surface and to lower its
coefficient of dynamic friction, and [0025] the outer surface of
the composition thus heated is then applied to the region to be
treated, and especially to be made up, the solid cosmetic
composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i)
at least one polyester that may be obtained by reacting: [0026] a
tetraol containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; [0027] a linear or
branched saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from 9 to 23
carbon atoms; [0028] a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6
to 12 carbon atoms; and [0029] an aromatic monocarboxylic acid
containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms, (ii) and at least one solid
fatty substance chosen from waxes and pasty fatty substances, and a
mixture thereof.
[0030] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the
process is a makeup process.
[0031] According to one particular embodiment, the softened outer
surface is brought into direct contact with the region to be
treated, and in particular with the keratin materials.
[0032] In other words, no applicator is used to deposit the
softened composition.
[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid"
refers to a composition having, at 20.degree. C. and at atmospheric
pressure (760 mmHg), a hardness of greater than 30 Nm.sup.-1 and
preferably greater than 40 Nm.sup.-1.
[0034] According to one preferred embodiment, the solid composition
according to the invention is in the form of a stick. When the
composition is in the form of a stick, the outer surface may be
defined as the end thereof, i.e. the free end that is applied to
the keratin materials by the user.
[0035] According to one particular embodiment, the process
according to the present invention is such that the composition is
in the form of a wand, especially with a diameter of greater than
or equal to 7 mm.
[0036] According to yet another embodiment, the process according
to the present invention is such that the composition is a
lipstick.
[0037] It is advantageously characterized by a hardness as defined
below.
[0038] According to yet another aspect, the invention relates to a
kit comprising: [0039] a composition as defined previously, and
[0040] a heating device for locally heating a surface of a piece of
the composition.
[0041] The piece of composition may be permanently in contact with
or close to the heating device, and this heating device may be
activated before applying the composition, to raise the temperature
of the outer surface of the piece of composition. As a variant, the
piece of composition is brought into contact with or close to the
heating device only for the use, for the purpose of applying the
composition.
[0042] Thus, the invention may make it possible to heat at the
surface, just before application, for example the top of the bevel
of a lipstick wand made with a composition according to the
invention, so as to allow deposition, even if the wand contains
compounds that are sparingly suited to satisfactory cold
application, these compounds affording increased performance in
terms of staying power and/or gloss.
[0043] In examples of implementation of the invention, by heating
the surface of the wand, its glidance and thus its application to
the lips or the skin may be improved.
[0044] According to one particular embodiment, the composition used
according to the invention has a temperature-sensitive coefficient
of dynamic friction, of greater than or equal to 0.5 at 25.degree.
C. and better still greater than or equal to 0.6 at 25.degree.
C.
[0045] The solid composition advantageously has a hardness of
greater than or equal to 80 Nm.sup.-1 at 20.degree. C., better
still greater than or equal to 100 Nm.sup.-1 or even 120 Nm.sup.-1
at 20.degree. C., which makes the wand mechanically strong and
allows its conditioning, for example, in a conventional case
comprising two parts that can rotate relative to each other to move
the wand.
[0046] The coefficient of dynamic friction may be, at the
temperature to which the composition is heated, less than or equal
to 0.45 and better still 0.4.
[0047] The coefficient of dynamic friction, which is greater than
or equal to 0.5 at 25.degree. C. may thus become, for example, less
than or equal to 0.45 at 45.degree. C., i.e. it may reach a value
comparable to certain known lipsticks intended for application at
25.degree. C.
[0048] The invention may apply to a wand of product comprising an
amount of polyester such that its application cold and/or without
heating is difficult, virtually impossible or unpleasant. For such
a wand of product, application after heating becomes possible, with
particularly advantageous comfort or even gloss performance with
regard to the presence of the oils it contains.
[0049] In the context of the invention, it is important for the
compositions used to be stable (and in particular for them not to
have any problems of phase separation) at room temperature (at
20.degree. C.) and when they are heated before application
(especially to a temperature of about 60.degree. C.)
[0050] The product may be heated in various ways, for example by
being exposed to infrared radiation or to wireless radiation.
[0051] The product may also be heated by blowing with hot air, by
being exposed to ultrasonic vibrations or by heat transfer on
contact with or close to a hot surface which, for example, bears
radially against the outer surface, especially the end of the wand.
The hot surface may also bear axially against the outer surface,
especially the end of the wand. The hot surface may have a beveled,
inverted cone or concave hollow shape, especially spherical.
[0052] The outer surface of the product may be heated to a
temperature T.sub.f of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C., or
even greater than 45.degree. C. or alternatively greater than
50.degree. C. The outer surface may be heated to a temperature
T.sub.f of between 40.degree. C. and 95.degree. C., better still
45.degree. C. to 85.degree. C. and better still 45.degree. C. to
75.degree. C.
[0053] The temperature of the application surface, especially of
the end of the wand, should not lead to any risk of burning at the
time of application. This is why a waiting time between the moment
at which the end is heated and the application to the keratin
materials may optionally be necessary.
[0054] The temperature difference between the heated outer surface
and the portion of the product that remains solid may be greater
than or equal to 5.degree. C. and better still greater than or
equal to 15.degree. C. or 20.degree. C., at least at the start of
application, or even greater than 30.degree. C.
[0055] Only the product may come into contact with the treated area
during the application.
[0056] The heating device may be housed in a cap for closing the
support, so as to allow the outer surface to be heated with the cap
in place on the support. The heating device may also be housed
elsewhere than in a cap for closing the support.
[0057] The heating device may be housed in a case on which the
support may be engaged so that the heating may take place when the
support is engaged in the case, especially a case comprising an
aperture in which the piece of solid product may be engaged,
preferably without the whole support being placed inside the
case.
[0058] The heating device may be an integral part of the
conditioning and application device.
[0059] The heating device may be arranged to come into contact with
the outer surface.
[0060] The heating device may be arranged so that the piece of
product passes through it, and may especially comprise a
circular-shaped hot surface.
[0061] The heating device may comprise a control means allowing the
user to control its functioning. This control means may comprise a
switch present on the support or on a cap for closing the
support.
[0062] The heating device may comprise an electrical resistance to
heat a surface that may come into contact with or close to the
application surface.
[0063] The heating device may comprise an infrared emitter arranged
to subject the application surface to infrared light so as to heat
it, and a wireless radiation emission means for raising the
temperature of the outer surface, a fan for blowing hot air onto
the outer surface or a source of ultrasound for heating the outer
surface.
[0064] The heating device may also comprise at least two components
that are capable, when mixed together, of producing an exothermic
reaction.
[0065] The piece of product may be in the form of a wand and the
outer surface may be defined by the end of the wand.
[0066] The heating device may comprise a source of electrical power
comprising one or more batteries or accumulators.
[0067] The heating device may comprise an electric generator
actuated by the user.
[0068] The heating device may comprise means for heating the piece
of composition to a predefined temperature, despite the wear of the
piece. This means may comprise an elastically deformable member,
which ensures contact or a constant gap between the outer surface
to be heated and the heating device, by compensating for the wear
of the piece of composition.
[0069] These means may also comprise, where appropriate, a
temperature sensor for adjusting the heating power, for example for
increasing it if the outer surface is further away from the source
of heat.
[0070] Coefficient of Dynamic Friction
[0071] To characterize the coefficient of dynamic friction of the
product, a machine comprising a carriage that moves over a distance
of 100 mm on ball bearings may be used.
[0072] Correct movement of the carriage is ensured by means of a
rigid connection with moving crosshead of a traction-compression
machine (TAXT2 from the company Rheo) placed horizontally, with a
magnet attached to the back of the carriage.
[0073] The product S whose coefficient of dynamic friction it is
sought to evaluate is cut at one end with a tungsten wire of
diameter 250 .mu.m by removing the wire relative to the stick at a
speed of 100 mm/minute and perpendicular to its longitudinal axis
so as to have a flat contact surface parallel to the sliding
surface W.
[0074] A normal force Fn is applied thereto at the sliding surface
W by means of a weight. This weight is such that the pressure
exerted on the surface of the product S in contact with W is
7.9.times.10.sup.3 MPa.
[0075] The product may be in the form of a circular cylindrical
wand.
[0076] In the case where the cross section of the wand is not
circular, the stick is slid in the direction of the small axis of
its cross section, by moving the large axis parallel to itself.
[0077] The coefficient of friction is defined as the ratio of the
tangential force Ft applied to the body moving in the direction M
to the normal force Fn experienced by this same body, as
illustrated in FIG. 15.
[0078] In a friction test, a first transient phase of start of
movement of the system and a second phase of continuous regime may
be distinguished.
[0079] In the first phase, the tangential force increases to reach
a maximum that corresponds to the start of movement of the system.
This maximum corresponds to the static friction force, known as the
static Ft, and makes it possible to define a coefficient of static
friction (.mu.s)
.mu.s=static Ft/Fn
[0080] where Fn is the applied normal force.
[0081] The tangential force Ft then decreases to generally reach a
more stable regime. The coefficient of dynamic friction is defined
in this phase of the movement as the ratio of the dynamic friction
force (tangential force) to the applied normal force (Fn):
.mu.d=dynamic Ft/Fn
[0082] The coefficient of friction is a dimensionless magnitude,
which depends on the two surfaces in contact and on the contact
conditions.
[0083] The sliding surface is defined by artificial skin of
reference Bio Skin Plate Black K275 from the company Maprecos, with
a width greater than or equal to the cross section of the
stick.
[0084] For a measurement at 25.degree. C., the apparatus and the
composition are both at 25.degree. C.
[0085] The artificial skin is placed on the support that may be
heated to the temperature at which it is desired to measure the
coefficient of dynamic friction. The wand initially at a
temperature of 25.degree. C. is applied, for example to the
artificial skin thus heated, for example to 45.degree. C. if the
measurement is to be taken at 45.degree. C. The surface temperature
of the artificial skin may be monitored with an optical
thermometer.
[0086] In certain embodiments, the coefficient of dynamic friction
of a composition according to the invention is greater than or
equal to 0.6, or even 0.7 or even 0.8 at 25.degree. C. The
coefficient of dynamic friction at 25.degree. C. of the
compositions according to the invention may be less than or equal
to 5.
[0087] According to one particular embodiment, the stick may have a
diameter of 12.7 mm in the region of its area of contact with the
sliding surface, but other values are possible, for example ranging
from 7 mm to 50 mm.
[0088] Hardness Measurement Protocol
[0089] The compositions under consideration according to the
invention are relatively hard at room temperature and, under the
action of heat, become soft enough to be able to be applied.
[0090] The hardness may be measured at 20.degree. C. via the cheese
wire method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of
product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a
rigid tungsten wire 250 .mu.m in diameter, by moving the wire
relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute. The hardness
corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by the wire on the
stick at 20.degree. C., this force being measured using a DFGHS 2
tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon. The
measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.
[0091] The average of the three values read using the tensile
testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This
average is converted into newtons and then divided by L which
represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In
the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter in
metres.
[0092] The hardness is converted by the equation below:
(Y.times.10.sup.-3.times.9.8)/L
[0093] For a measurement at a different temperature, the entire
stick is heated to the temperature at which the hardness is to be
measured.
[0094] According to this method, the hardness at 20.degree. C. of
examples of composition according to one aspect of the invention is
greater than 80 Nm.sup.-1, especially greater than 100 Nm.sup.-1
and preferably greater than 120 Nm.sup.-1.
[0095] Preferably, the composition according to the invention
especially has a hardness at 20.degree. C. of less than 500
Nm.sup.-1, especially less than 400 Nm.sup.-1 and preferably less
than 300 Nm.sup.-1.
[0096] A composition of the invention is cosmetically or
dermatologically acceptable, i.e. it contains a non-toxic
physiologically acceptable medium that can be applied to human
lips. For the purposes of the invention, the term "cosmetically
acceptable" refers to a composition of pleasant appearance, odour
and feel that is suitable for use in cosmetics.
[0097] Polyesters
[0098] The composition according to the invention comprises at
least one polyester.
[0099] A polyester that is suitable for use in the invention may
advantageously be obtained by reacting a polyol, a polycarboxylic
acid, a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid and an aromatic
monocarboxylic acid.
[0100] In particular, a polyester that is suitable for use in the
invention may be preferentially obtained by reacting: [0101] a
tetraol containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; [0102] a linear or
branched saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from 9 to 23
carbon atoms; [0103] a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6
to 12 carbon atoms; [0104] an aromatic monocarboxylic acid
containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms.
[0105] Advantageously, a polyester of the invention may be obtained
by reacting: [0106] from 10% to 30% by weight of tetraol containing
from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; [0107] from 40% to 80% by weight of a
linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from 9
to 23 carbon atoms; [0108] from 5% to 30% by weight of a cyclic
dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; [0109] from
0.1% to 10% by weight of an aromatic monocarboxylic acid containing
from 7 to 11 carbon atoms,
[0110] the contents being expressed as weight percentages relative
to the total weight of the polyester.
[0111] A polyester used according to the invention comprises a
tetraol. The term "tetraol" means a polyol comprising 4 hydroxyl
groups.
[0112] A tetraol used for the preparation of the polyester is
advantageously a linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon-based compound containing from 4 to 10
carbon atoms, and possibly also comprising one or more oxygen atoms
intercalated in the chain (ether function). Obviously, a mixture of
such tetraols may be used.
[0113] A tetraol may in particular be a saturated, linear or
branched hydrocarbon-based compound containing 4 to 10 carbon
atoms.
[0114] A tetraol may be chosen from pentaerythritol or
tetramethylolmethane, erythritol, diglycerol and
ditrimethylolpropane.
[0115] Preferably, the tetraol is chosen from pentaerythritol and
diglycerol.
[0116] Even more preferentially, a tetraol may be
pentaerythritol.
[0117] The content of tetraol, or tetraol mixture, may represent
from 10% to 30% by weight, especially from 12% to 25% by weight and
better still from 14% to 22% by weight relative to the total weight
of the polyester.
[0118] A polyester used according to the invention also comprises a
linear or branched, saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from 9
to 23 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0119] The term "saturated monocarboxylic acid" means a compound of
formula RCOOH in which R is a saturated linear or branched
hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and
especially from 11 to 21 carbon atoms. Obviously, a mixture of such
monocarboxylic acids may be used.
[0120] Among the saturated monocarboxylic acids that may be used,
mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of nonanoic acid,
isononanoic acid or pelargonic acid, decanoic acid or capric acid,
lauric acid, tridecanoic acid or tridecylic acid, myristic acid,
palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid and
behenic acid.
[0121] Preferably, lauric acid, myristic acid, isononanoic acid,
nonanoic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid or
behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, may be used.
[0122] Preferentially, isostearic acid or stearic acid is used.
[0123] When the saturated monocarboxylic acid is liquid at room
temperature, it generally leads to a polyester that is liquid at
room temperature.
[0124] Liquid monocarboxylic acids that may be mentioned include
nonanoic acid, isononanoic acid and isostearic acid.
[0125] When the saturated monocarboxylic acid is solid at room
temperature, it generally leads to a polyester that is solid at
room temperature.
[0126] Solid monocarboxylic acids that may be mentioned include
decanoic acid, lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid,
palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid and behenic acid.
[0127] The content of saturated monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture
of the acids, represents from 40% to 80% by weight, especially from
42% to 75% by weight, or even 45% to 70% by weight and better still
50% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the
polyester.
[0128] The polyester used according to the invention also comprises
a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms and
especially containing 8 carbon atoms. The cyclic dicarboxylic acid
may be aromatic or non-aromatic. The cyclic dicarboxylic acid is
preferably aromatic.
[0129] Obviously, a mixture of such cyclic dicarboxylic acids may
be used.
[0130] A cyclic dicarboxylic acid may be chosen from
cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid,
cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid,
isophthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid,
naphthalene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid and naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic
acid, or mixtures thereof.
[0131] Preferably, the cyclic dicarboxylic acid is chosen from
phthalic acid, terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid. Phthalic
acid may be advantageously used in its anhydride form.
[0132] Preferentially, the cyclic dicarboxylic acid is isophthalic
acid.
[0133] A cyclic dicarboxylic acid, or a mixture of such diacids,
may represent from 5% to 30% by weight and preferably from 15% to
25% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester.
[0134] A polyester used according to the invention also comprises
an aromatic monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon
atoms.
[0135] The term "aromatic monocarboxylic acid" means a compound of
formula R'COOH, in which R' is an aromatic hydrocarbon-based
radical containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms; R' is in particular a
phenyl radical, optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals
containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0136] Obviously, a mixture of such aromatic monocarboxylic acids
may be used.
[0137] The aromatic monocarboxylic acid may be chosen from benzoic
acid and 4-tert-butylbenzoic acid.
[0138] The aromatic monocarboxylic acid is preferably benzoic
acid.
[0139] The aromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of the
acids, represents from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.5%
to 9.95% by weight and better still from 1% to 9.5% by weight, or
even from 1.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the
polyester.
[0140] According to one preferred embodiment, the polyester is
obtained by reacting: [0141] from 12% to 25% by weight of a tetraol
containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; [0142] from 40% to 75% by
weight of a linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid
containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms; [0143] from 15% to 25% by
weight of a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon
atoms; [0144] from 0.5% to 9.95% by weight of an aromatic
monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms,
[0145] the contents being expressed as weight percentages relative
to the total weight of the polyester.
[0146] According to another preferred embodiment, the polyester is
obtained by reacting: [0147] from 14% to 22% by weight of a tetraol
containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; [0148] from 45% to 70% by
weight of a linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid
containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms; [0149] from 15% to 25% by
weight of a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon
atoms; [0150] from 1% to 9.5% by weight of an aromatic
monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms,
[0151] the contents being expressed as weight percentages relative
to the total weight of the polyester.
[0152] According to another preferred embodiment, the polyester is
obtained by reacting: [0153] from 14% to 22% by weight of a tetraol
containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; [0154] from 50% to 65% by
weight of a linear or branched, saturated monocarboxylic acid
containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms; [0155] from 15% to 25% by
weight of a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon
atoms; [0156] from 1.5% to 8% by weight of an aromatic
monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms,
[0157] the contents being expressed as weight percentages relative
to the total weight of the polyester.
[0158] In one preferred embodiment of the polyester used according
to the invention, the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is present in a
molar amount of less than or equal to that of the linear or
branched saturated monocarboxylic acid; in particular, the ratio
between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the
number of moles of linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid
ranges from 0.08 to 0.70. The weight ratio preferably ranges
between 0.10 and 0.60 and more preferentially from 0.12 to
0.40.
[0159] According to one embodiment of the invention, a polyester of
the invention may be chosen from benzoic acid/isophthalic
acid/isostearic acid/pentaerythritol polyesters and benzoic
acid/isophthalic acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polyesters, and
mixtures thereof.
[0160] These monomers are especially used in the monomer
concentration ranges described previously.
[0161] Preferably, the polyester has: [0162] an acid number,
expressed as mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polyester, of
greater than or equal to 1; especially between 2 and 30 and even
better still between 2.5 and 15; and/or [0163] a hydroxyl number,
expressed in mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polyester, of
greater than or equal to 40; especially between 40 and 120 and
better still between 40 and 80.
[0164] These acid and hydroxyl numbers may be readily determined by
a person skilled in the art via the usual analytical methods.
[0165] Preferably, a polyester of the invention has a
weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of between 3000 and 1 000 000
g/mol, or even between 3000 and 300 000 g/mol.
[0166] The average molecular weight may be determined by gel
permeation chromatography or by light scattering, depending on the
solubility of the polymer under consideration.
[0167] Preferably, a polyester of the invention has a viscosity,
measured at 110.degree. C., of between 20 and 4000 mPas, especially
between 30 and 3500 mPas or even between 40 and 3000 mPas and
better still between and 2500 mPas. This viscosity is measured in
the manner described hereinbelow.
[0168] According to one preferred embodiment, the polyester may be
in liquid form at room temperature. A liquid polyester may have a
weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 40 000 to 1 000 000
g/mol and preferably ranging from 50 000 to 300 000 g/mol.
[0169] A liquid polyester may have a viscosity, measured at
110.degree. C., ranging from 1000 to 4000 mPas and preferably
ranging from 1500 to 3000 mPas.
[0170] In particular, a liquid polyester may be a benzoic
acid/isophthalic acid/isostearic acid/pentaerythritol polyester,
these monomers especially being present in the monomer
concentration ranges described previously.
[0171] According to another embodiment, the polyester may also be
in solid form at room temperature. A solid polyester may have a
weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 3000 to 30 000
g/mol and preferably ranging from 8000 to 15 000 g/mol.
[0172] The solid polyester may have a viscosity, measured at
80.degree. C., ranging from 20 to 1000 mPas and preferably ranging
from 50 to 600 mPas.
[0173] In particular, a solid polyester may be a benzoic
acid/isophthalic acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polyester, these
monomers being present especially in the monomer concentration
ranges described previously.
[0174] A polyester of the invention may be prepared according to
the synthetic process described in patent application EP-A-1 870
082.
[0175] The viscosity of a polyester of the invention may be
measured in the manner described hereinbelow.
[0176] The viscosity at 80.degree. C. or at 110.degree. C. of a
polyester is measured using a cone-plate viscometer of Brookfield
CAP 1000+ type.
[0177] The appropriate cone-plate is determined by a person skilled
in the art on the basis of his knowledge; especially: [0178]
between 50 and 500 mPas, a 03 cone may be used, [0179] between 500
and 1000 mPas: 03 cone, [0180] between 1000 and 4000 mPas: 05 cone,
and [0181] between 4000 and 10 000 mPas: 06 cone.
[0182] The amount of polyester present in a composition of the
invention may range from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to
50% by weight, especially from 3% to 45% by weight, or even from 4%
to 35% by weight and better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
[0183] A polyester that is suitable for use in the invention may be
readily conveyed in cosmetic oily or solvent media, especially
oils, fatty alcohols and/or fatty esters.
[0184] A polyester of the invention may be readily prepared, in a
single synthetic step, without producing any waste, and at low
cost.
[0185] A polyester that is suitable for use in the invention may
advantageously be branched so as to generate a network by
interweaving of polymer chains, and thus to obtain the desired
properties, especially in terms of improved remanence and improved
gloss, and in terms of solubility.
[0186] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention
may comprise at least two polyesters that are different from each
other.
[0187] Preferably, the polyester is present in a composition
according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by
weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, especially from 10% to
45% by weight, or even from 10% to 35% by weight and better still
from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0188] Fatty Phase
[0189] Solid Fatty Substance:
[0190] The composition according to the invention comprises at
least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes and pasty fatty
substances, and a mixture thereof.
[0191] Wax
[0192] The wax under consideration in the context of the present
invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room
temperature (25.degree. C.), with a solid/liquid reversible change
of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to
30.degree. C., which may be up to 200.degree. C. and in particular
up to 120.degree. C.
[0193] According to one embodiment of the invention, hair-removing
waxes are excluded, as waxes that are suitable for use in the
invention.
[0194] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention
may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45.degree. C.
and in particular greater than or equal to 55.degree. C.
[0195] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point
corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak
observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO standard
11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a
differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the
calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA
Instruments.
[0196] The measuring protocol is as follows:
[0197] A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to
a first temperature rise ranging from -20.degree. C. to 100.degree.
C., at a heating rate of 10.degree. C./minute, it is then cooled
from 100.degree. C. to -20.degree. C. at a cooling rate of
10.degree. C./minute and is finally subjected to a second
temperature increase ranging from -20.degree. C. to 100.degree. C.
at a heating rate of 5.degree. C./minute. During the second
temperature increase, the variation of the difference in power
absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the
sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The
melting point of the compound is the temperature value
corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the
variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of the
temperature.
[0198] The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to
the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room
temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and
mixtures thereof.
[0199] As illustrations of waxes that are suitable for use in the
invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based
waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes,
rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfalfa
wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax,
orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes (such as the wax
sold under the reference Microwax HW by the company Paramelt),
paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes such as those sold
under the name Performalene 500-L and Performalene 400 by the
company New Phase Technologies, and the waxes obtained by
Fisher-Tropsch synthesis.
[0200] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic
hydrogenation of animal or plant oils with linear or branched
C.sub.8-C.sub.32 fatty chains. Among these, mention may be made
especially of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized
partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the
company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50.RTM.,
hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated
coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and the
bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name
Hest 2T-4S.RTM. by the company Heterene.
[0201] Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C.sub.30-45
Alkyl Dimethicone) and fluoro waxes.
[0202] It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by
hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold
under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64.RTM. and 22L73.RTM. by the
company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application
FR-A-2 792 190.
[0203] It is possible to use a C.sub.20-C.sub.40 alkyl
(hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to
40 carbon atoms) as wax, alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold
especially under the names Kester Wax K 82 P.RTM., Hydroxypolyester
K 82 P.RTM., Kester Wax K 80 P.RTM. and Kester Wax K 82 H.RTM. by
the company Koster Keunen.
[0204] As microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according
to the invention, mention may be made especially of carnauba
microwaxes such as the product sold under the name MicroCare
350.RTM. by the company Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes such as
the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S.RTM. by the company
Micro
[0205] Powders, microwaxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax
and polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names MicroCare
300.RTM. and 310.RTM. by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes
formed from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as
the product sold under the name MicroCare 325.RTM. by the company
Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the
names Micropoly 200.RTM., 220.RTM., 220L.RTM. and 250S.RTM. by the
company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes such
as those sold under the names Microslip 519.RTM. and 519 L.RTM. by
the company Micro Powders.
[0206] The composition according to the invention may comprise a
content of waxes ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular
from 0.1% to 45% by weight, for example from 2% to 35% by weight,
4% to 30% by weight or, according to certain embodiments, from 4%
to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0207] Pasty Compounds
[0208] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
at least one pasty compound.
[0209] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty
compound" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound that
undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, that has
anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state, and that
comprises, at a temperature of 23.degree. C., a liquid fraction and
a solid fraction.
[0210] In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty
compound is less than 23.degree. C. The liquid fraction of the
pasty compound measured at 23.degree. C. may represent 9% to 97% by
weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23.degree. C.
preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably
between 40% and 85% by weight.
[0211] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at
23.degree. C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed
at 23.degree. C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
[0212] The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat
consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the
liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state
when all of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said
to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid
form.
[0213] The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the
area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a
differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter
sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments, with a
temperature rise of 5 or 10.degree. C. per minute, according to
standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound
is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from
the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
[0214] The heat of fusion consumed at 23.degree. C. is the amount
of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to
the state that it has at 23.degree. C., consisting of a liquid
fraction and a solid fraction.
[0215] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at
32.degree. C., preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of
the compound, preferably from 50% to 100% and more preferably from
60% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of
the pasty compound measured at 32.degree. C. is equal to 100%, the
temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound
is less than or equal to 32.degree. C.
[0216] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at
32.degree. C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed
at 32.degree. C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The
heat of fusion consumed at 32.degree. C. is calculated in the same
manner as the heat of fusion consumed at 23.degree. C.
[0217] The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic
compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be
obtained by synthesis starting from starting materials of plant
origin.
[0218] The pasty compound may be advantageously chosen from: [0219]
i) lanolin and derivatives thereof, [0220] ii) polymeric or
non-polymeric silicone compounds, [0221] iii) polymeric or
non-polymeric fluoro compounds, [0222] iv) vinyl polymers,
especially: [0223] olefin homopolymers and olefin copolymers,
[0224] hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers, [0225]
linear or branched oligomers, which are homopolymers or copolymers
of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C.sub.8-C.sub.30
alkyl group, [0226] vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymers (INCI name
VP/eicosene copolymer), for example the product sold by the company
ISP under the trade name Ganex V220F.RTM., [0227] oligomers, which
are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups, [0228] v) liposoluble polyethers
resulting from polyetherification between one or more
C.sub.2-C.sub.100 and preferably C.sub.2-C.sub.50 diols, [0229] vi)
esters, [0230] vii) and mixtures thereof.
[0231] Among the esters, the following are especially preferred:
[0232] esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters,
in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which
some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a
mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic
acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially
such as bis(diglyceryl) poly(2-acyladipate), especially the product
sold under the brand name Softisan 649.RTM. by the company Sasol,
[0233] arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801
by Alzo, [0234] phytosterol esters, [0235] fatty acid triglycerides
and derivatives thereof, [0236] pentaerythritol esters, [0237]
non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between
a linear or branched C.sub.4-C.sub.50 dicarboxylic acid or
polycarboxylic acid and a C.sub.2-C.sub.50 diol or polyol, [0238]
aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of
an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic
carboxylic acid, [0239] esters resulting from the esterification of
an aliphatic acid and a hydroxylated aliphatic ester. These esters
may result from the esterification a) of a monocarboxylic or
polycarboxylic aliphatic acid, and b) of a hydroxylated aliphatic
ester, especially a hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, [0240] esters of
diol dimer and of diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on
their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol
radicals, such as bisbehenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer
dilinoleyl sold especially under the trade name Plandool-G.RTM. by
the company Nippon Fine Chemical, [0241] and mixtures thereof.
[0242] Among the pasty compounds,
bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl,
bis(diglyceryl) poly(2-acyladipate), hydrogenated castor oil dimer
dilinoleate, for example Risocast DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo,
and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS
(V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil, or a mixture thereof, will preferably be
chosen.
[0243] The content of pasty compound may range from 5% to 90% by
weight, especially from 5% to 50% by weight, or even, in certain
embodiments, from 5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0244] Oil
[0245] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition
according to the invention comprises at least one oil.
[0246] The term "oil" means a non-aqueous compound, which is liquid
at room temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760
mmHg).
[0247] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0248] For the purposes of the invention, a volatile oil has, at
room temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760
mmHg), a vapour pressure ranging from 0.02 mmHg to 300 mmHg (2.66
Pa to 40 000 Pa) and better still ranging from 0.1 to 90 mmHg (13
Pa to 12 000 Pa).
[0249] Non-volatile oils then correspond to a vapour pressure below
0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still below 10.sup.-3 mmHg (0.13
Pa).
[0250] The volatile oil may be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon-based
oil or a fluoro oil.
[0251] According to a first variant, the volatile oil may be a
volatile silicone oil.
[0252] The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one
silicon atom, especially comprising Si--O groups.
[0253] The volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention
may be chosen from silicone oils with a flash point ranging from
40.degree. C. to 150.degree. C., preferably with a flash point of
greater than 55.degree. C. and less than or equal to 105.degree.
C., and preferentially ranging from 65.degree. C. to 95.degree. C.
The flash point is measured in particular according to standard ISO
3679.
[0254] The volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or
cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes
(PDMS) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
[0255] Examples of such oils that may be mentioned include octyl
trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
(cyclopentasiloxane or D5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
(cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane
(D6), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu, and
polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the references DC
200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt) and DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow
Corning.
[0256] According to another variant, the volatile oil may be a
volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
[0257] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed
essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen
atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing
any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester,
ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
[0258] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils (also known as solvents)
may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16
carbon atoms, especially branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16
isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for
instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane),
isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the
trade names Isopar and Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters and
isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile
hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates,
especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company
Shell, may also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen
from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon
atoms, and mixtures thereof.
[0259] As other volatile hydrocarbon-based solvents (oils) that may
be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may
also be made of ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such
as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone; short-chain esters (containing
from to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl
acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate; ethers that are liquid
at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or
dichlorodiethyl ether; alcohols and especially linear or branched
lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as
ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.
[0260] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition used
according to the invention comprises a content of volatile oil of
less than 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0% to 30% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition, or alternatively
is free of volatile oil.
[0261] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition used
according to the invention is free of volatile oil.
[0262] Non-volatile oil
[0263] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition used
according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile
oil.
[0264] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on
keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for
at least several hours and that especially has a vapour pressure of
less than 10.sup.-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil may also be
defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the
conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30
minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm.sup.2.
[0265] The non-volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-based oil, a
silicone oil or a fluoro oil.
[0266] Preferably, the composition according to the invention
comprises a content of non-volatile oil ranging from 1% to 90% by
weight, preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, better still from 10%
to 75% by weight, better still from 20% to 70% by weight and even
better still from 30% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0267] According to a first embodiment, the composition used in the
invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil with a molar mass
of less than 500 g/mol.
[0268] These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0269] As examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in the
invention, mention may be made of: [0270] hydrocarbon-based plant
oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4
to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid
triglycerides; jojoba oil or squalane; [0271] fatty alcohols
containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol,
2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl
alcohol; [0272] ester oils such as: [0273] fatty acid esters, in
particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of octanoic
acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or
stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene
glycol monoisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, [0274]
synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula
R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 in which R.sub.1 represents a linear or branched
fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 25 carbon atoms and R.sub.2
represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched,
containing from 4 to 25 carbon atoms, on condition that
R.sub.1+R.sub.2 (i.e. the sum of the carbon atoms of R.sub.1 and of
R.sub.2) is between 16 and 30, for instance Purcellin oil
(cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C.sub.12 to
C.sub.15 alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl
neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate,
isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or
polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl
myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate,
2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl
palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate;
[0275] hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl
hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate or glyceryl stearate;
diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and [0276] silicone oils with a
molecular weight of less than 500 g/mol, for instance linear or
cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes
comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at
the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24
carbon atoms; [0277] fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon
atoms, for instance oleic acid; [0278] and mixtures thereof.
[0279] According to a first embodiment, the composition used
according to the invention is free of oil with a molecular weight
of less than 500 g/mol.
[0280] According to another embodiment, the composition used
according to the invention comprises a content of non-volatile oil
with a molecular weight of less than 500 g/mol ranging from 0.1% to
80% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 60% by weight, better still
from 0.1% to 50% by weight and even better still from 1% to 40% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0281] Glossy Oil
[0282] Preferably, the composition according to the invention
comprises at least one non-volatile oil with a molecular weight of
greater than 500 g/mol, known as a "glossy oil".
[0283] The glossy oil preferably has a high molar mass, i.e.
ranging from 500 to 100 000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 500 to
25 000 g/mol or alternatively from 500 to 10 000 g/mol.
[0284] Preferably, the glossy oil has a refractive index of greater
than or equal to 1.45 and especially ranging from 1.45 to 1.65.
[0285] The glossy oil that may be used in the present invention may
be chosen from: [0286] lipophilic polymers such as: [0287]
polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (of molar mass MW=965 g/mol),
Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) or Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g/mol)
sold or manufactured by the company Amoco, [0288] hydrogenated
polyisobutylenes such as Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by
Amoco (MW=1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the
company Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or
manufactured by the company Witco (MW=1000 g/mol), [0289]
polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10
(MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured
by the company Mobil Chemicals, [0290] vinylpyrrolidone copolymers
such as: the vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer Antaron V-216
sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW=7300 g/mol), [0291]
esters such as: [0292] pentaerythritol esters; [0293] esters of
aromatic acids and of alcohols comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms,
especially tridecyl trimellitate; [0294] hydroxylated esters such
as diisostearyl malate or polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (MW=965
g/mol), aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW=757
g/mol), [0295] C.sub.24-C.sub.28 esters of branched fatty alcohols
or fatty acids such as those described in patent application EP-A-0
955 039, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW=1033.76 g/mol),
pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW=697 g/mol), glyceryl
triisostearate (MM=891 g/mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate
(MW=1143 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW=1202 g/mol),
polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW=1232 g/mol) or pentaerythrityl
tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW=1538 g/mol), [0296] esters of a
diol dimer and of a diacid dimer of general formula:
[0296] HO--R.sup.1--(--OCO--R.sup.2--COO--R.sup.1--).sub.h--OH
[0297] in which: [0298] R.sup.1 represents a diol dimer obtained by
hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid, [0299] R.sup.2 represents a
hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and [0300] h represents an
integer ranging from 1 to 9, [0301] especially the esters of
dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the
company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan
DD-DA5.RTM. and DD-DA7.RTM., [0302] silicone oils such as phenyl
silicones, and [0303] mixtures thereof.
[0304] Preferably, when the glossy oil is a hydrocarbon-based oil,
it preferably has a molar mass ranging from 500 to 10 000 g/mol and
preferably from 500 to 7500 g/mol.
[0305] Preferably, the glossy oil has a refractive index of greater
than or equal to 1.45, especially ranging from 1.45 to 1.65.
[0306] Preferably, the oil with a molecular weight of greater than
500 g/mol may represent from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from
5% to 80% by weight, better still from 10% to 75% by weight, better
still from 20% to 70% by weight and even better still from 30% to
70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0307] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition
according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile
phenyl silicone oil (also known as a "phenyl silicone").
[0308] In particular, the composition according to the invention
preferably comprises at least one phenyl silicone oil with a
molecular weight of greater than 500 g/mol (known as a "glossy
oil"). Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the
phenyl silicone oil is between 500 and 10 000 g/mol and preferably
between 500 and 7500 g/mol.
[0309] The term "phenyl silicone oil" means an organopolysiloxane
substituted with at least one phenyl group.
[0310] The silicone oil may be chosen from phenyl trimethicones,
phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes,
diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and
2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0311] The silicone oil may correspond to the formula:
##STR00001##
[0312] in which the groups R represent, independently of each
other, a methyl or a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the
silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at
least four, at least five or at least six.
[0313] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the
silicone oil corresponds to formula A1:
##STR00002##
[0314] in which the groups R represent, independently of each
other, a methyl or a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the
organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for
example at least four or at least five.
[0315] Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described
previously may be used.
[0316] Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of
tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxanes.
[0317] According to this embodiment, the silicone oil preferably
corresponds to the formula:
##STR00003##
[0318] in which Me represents a methyl group and Ph represents a
phenyl group. Such a phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by
Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid
(INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow
Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid may also be used.
[0319] According to another embodiment, the silicone oil
corresponds to the formula:
##STR00004##
[0320] in which Me represents a methyl group, y is between 1 and
1000 and X represents --CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)(Ph).
[0321] According to another embodiment, the silicone oil
corresponds to the formula:
##STR00005##
[0322] in which --OR' represents a group --O--SiMe.sub.3, y is
between 1 and 1000 and z is between 1 and 1000.
[0323] The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl
silicones of formula (VI) below:
##STR00006##
[0324] in which [0325] R.sub.1 to R.sub.10, independently of each
other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched
C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, [0326] m, n, p and q are,
independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the
proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.
[0327] Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably,
the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900, and better still between 1
and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0.
[0328] The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl
silicones of formula (VII) below:
##STR00007##
[0329] in which: [0330] R1 to R6, independently of each other, are
saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30
hydrocarbon-based radicals, [0331] m, n and p are, independently of
each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the
sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
[0332] Preferably, R1 to R6, independently of each other, represent
a saturated, linear or branched C1-C30 and especially C1-C12
hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl
or butyl radical.
[0333] R1 to R6 may especially be identical, and in addition may be
a methyl radical.
[0334] Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 may
apply, in formula (VII).
[0335] A phenyl silicone oil of formula (VI) with a viscosity at
25.degree. C. of between 5 and 1500 mm.sup.2/s (i.e. 5 to 1500
cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000
mm.sup.2/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.
[0336] As phenyl silicone oil of formula (VII), it is especially
possible to use phenyl trimethicones such as Belsil oils,
especially Belsil PDM1000 (1000 cSt) and Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt)
from Wacker, the oil Silbione 70663V30 from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt)
or diphenyl dimethicones. The values in parentheses represent the
viscosities at 25.degree. C.
[0337] The non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen from the
silicones of formula:
##STR00008##
[0338] in which:
[0339] R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 are, together or
separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0340] R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 are, together or separately, an alkyl
radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical,
[0341] X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a
hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,
[0342] n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average
molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150
000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.
[0343] In particular, phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,
phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxane, trimethyl pentaphenyl
trisiloxane (especially
1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane sold under the
name PH-1555 HRI by Dow Corning), and mixtures thereof, are
preferably used as phenyl silicone oil.
[0344] Preferably, the phenyl silicone oil with a molecular weight
of greater than 500 g/mol (such as an oil of formula A1) is present
in a content ranging from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 5%
to 80% by weight, better still from 10% to 75% by weight, better
still from 20% to 70% by weight and even better still from 30% to
70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0345] Preferably, when the composition comprises a phenyl silicone
oil, it is present in the composition in a phenyl silicone
oil/polyester weight ratio of between 1 and 20 and preferably
between 1.5 and 10.
[0346] Preferably, the composition comprises a phenyl silicone oil
with a molecular weight of greater than 500 g/mol and at least one
hydrocarbon-based oil with a molecular weight of greater than 500
g/mol.
[0347] Besides the abovementioned compounds, a composition
according to the invention may also comprise other compounds
especially as defined hereinbelow. It is understood that the amount
of these additional compounds may be adjusted by a person skilled
in the art so as not to adversely affect the desired effect in the
context of the present invention.
[0348] In particular, according to one preferred embodiment, the
composition used according to the invention comprises at least one
additional ingredient chosen from dyestuffs, fillers, non-volatile
oils, structuring agents other than waxes or pasty fatty
substances, semi-crystalline polymers, film-forming polymers and
silicone polyamides.
[0349] Other Structuring Agents
[0350] The composition according to the present invention may also
comprise additional structuring agents other than a wax as defined
previously. The term "structuring agent" means a compound that is
capable of increasing the viscosity of the composition into which
it is incorporated. The additional structuring agent makes it
possible especially to obtain a composition that may have a texture
ranging from fluid to solid textures.
[0351] In this respect, mention may be made especially of: [0352]
organophilic clays, for instance hectorites modified with a
C.sub.10 to C.sub.22 ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite
modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the
product sold under the name Bentone 38V.RTM. by the company
Elementis; [0353] fumed silicas, for instance fumed silicas
optionally hydrophobically surface-treated, the particle size of
which is less than 1 .mu.m. The reason for this is that it is
possible to chemically modify the surface of silica, by chemical
reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups
present at the surface of silica. It is especially possible to
substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic
silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: [0354] 1.
trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treating
fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus
treated are known as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th
edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references
Aerosil R812.RTM. by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530.RTM.
by the company Cabot, [0355] 2. dimethylsilyloxyl or
polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by
treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or
dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica
dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They
are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972.RTM. and
Aerosil R974.RTM. by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610.RTM.
and Cab-O-Sil TS-720.RTM. by the company Cabot. [0356] alkyl guar
gums (with a C1-C6 alkyl group), such as those described in
EP-A-708 114, or, for example, cellulose derivatives such as
ethylcellulose, for instance the product sold under the name
Ethocel.RTM. by the company Dow Chemical; [0357] hydrocarbon-based
block copolymers, also known as block copolymers, preferably a
block copolymer that is soluble or dispersible in a liquid fatty
phase.
[0358] The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer may especially be a
diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or
mixtures thereof.
[0359] Such hydrocarbon-based block copolymers are described in
patent application US-A-2002/005 562 and in U.S. Pat. No.
5,221,534.
[0360] Diblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, that
may be mentioned include styrene-ethylene/propylene copolymers,
styrene-ethylene/butadiene copolymers and styrene-ethylene/butylene
copolymers. The diblock polymers are especially sold under the name
Kraton.RTM. G1701E by the company Kraton Polymers.
[0361] Triblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, that
may be mentioned include styrene-ethylene/propylene-styrene
copolymers, styrene-ethylene/butadiene-styrene copolymers,
styrene-ethylene/butylene-styrene copolymers,
styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers and styrene-butadiene-styrene
copolymers. Triblock copolymers are especially sold under the names
Kraton.RTM. G1650, Kraton.RTM. G1652, Kraton.RTM. D1101,
Kraton.RTM. D1102 and Kraton.RTM. D1160 by the company Kraton
Polymers. [0362] and mixtures thereof.
[0363] Such other structuring agents may be included in the
composition in accordance with the invention in a content of
between 0.5% and 20% by weight and especially between 0.5% and 10%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0364] Semi-Crystalline Polymer
[0365] The composition according to the invention may also
advantageously comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer of
organic structure whose melting point is greater than or equal to
30.degree. C.
[0366] Preferably, the total amount of semi-crystalline polymer(s)
represents from 0.1% to 45% of the total weight of the composition,
better still from 0.5% to 40%, for example from 1% to 35% by
weight, better still from 1% to 20%, or from 3% to 30%, 5% to 30%
or even 15% to 30%. It preferably represents from 2% to 10% by
weight of the composition.
[0367] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymers" means
compounds containing at least two repeating units, preferably at
least three repeating units and more especially at least ten
repeating units.
[0368] For the purposes of the invention, the term
"semi-crystalline polymer" means polymers comprising a
crystallizable portion and an amorphous portion in the backbone and
having a first-order reversible change of phase temperature, in
particular of melting (solid-liquid transition). The crystallizable
portion is either a side chain (or pendent chain) or a block in the
backbone.
[0369] When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline
polymer is a block of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable
block has a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous
blocks; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block
copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock
type.
[0370] When the crystallizable portion is a chain that is pendent
on the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer
or a copolymer.
[0371] The terms "organic compound" and "having an organic
structure" mean compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen
atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N or P, alone or in
combination.
[0372] The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is
preferably less than 150.degree. C.
[0373] The melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer is
preferably greater than or equal to 30.degree. C. and less than
100.degree. C. More preferably, the melting point of the
semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to
30.degree. C. and less than 70.degree. C.
[0374] The semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention
are solid at room temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric
pressure (760 mmHg), with a melting point of greater than or equal
to 30.degree. C. The melting point values correspond to the melting
point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC),
such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company
Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10.degree. C. per minute
(the melting point under consideration is the point corresponding
to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the
thermogram).
[0375] The semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention
preferably have a melting point that is higher than the temperature
of the keratinous support intended to receive the composition, in
particular the skin or the lips.
[0376] According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers
are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially to at
least 1% by weight, at a temperature that is higher than their
melting point. Besides the crystallizable chains or blocks, the
blocks of the polymers are amorphous.
[0377] For the purposes of the invention, the expression
"crystallizable chain or block" means a chain or block which, if it
were obtained alone, would change from the amorphous state to the
crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether one is above or
below the melting point. For the purposes of the invention, a
"chain" is a group of atoms, which are pendent or lateral relative
to the polymer backbone. A "block" is a group of atoms belonging to
the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of
the polymer.
[0378] Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline
polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their
melting point.
[0379] Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the
semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total
weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The
semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains are
homopolymers or copolymers. The semi-crystalline polymers of the
invention containing crystallizable blocks are block or multiblock
copolymers. They may be obtained by polymerizing a monomer
containing reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by
polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers
containing crystallizable side chains, these side chains are
advantageously in random or statistical form.
[0380] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention
are of synthetic origin.
[0381] According to one preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline
polymer is chosen from: [0382] homopolymers and copolymers
comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more
monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chains, [0383]
polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block,
[0384] polycondensates of aliphatic or aromatic or
aliphatic/aromatic polyester type, [0385] copolymers of ethylene
and propylene prepared via metallocene catalysis.
[0386] The semi-crystalline polymers that may be used in the
invention may be chosen in particular from: [0387] block copolymers
of polyolefins of controlled crystallization, whose monomers are
described in EP-A-0 951 897, [0388] polycondensates, especially of
aliphatic or aromatic polyester type or of aliphatic/aromatic
polyester type, [0389] copolymers of ethylene and propylene
prepared via metallocene catalysis, [0390] homopolymers or
copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and
homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable
block in the backbone, for instance those described in document
U.S. Pat. No. 5,156,911, [0391] homopolymers or copolymers bearing
at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular bearing
fluoro group(s), such as those described in document WO-A-01/19333,
[0392] and mixtures thereof.
[0393] In the last two cases, the crystallizable side chain(s) or
block(s) is (are) hydrophobic.
[0394] A) Semi-Crystalline Polymers Containing Crystallizable Side
Chains
[0395] Mention may be made in particular of those defined in
documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,156,911 and WO-A-01/19333.
[0396] They are homopolymers or copolymers comprising from 50% to
100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or
more monomers bearing a crystallizable hydrophobic side chain.
[0397] These homopolymers or copolymers are of any nature, provided
that they meet the conditions mentioned hereinbelow with, in
particular, the characteristic of being soluble or dispersible in
the fatty phase, by heating above their melting point mp. They can
result: [0398] from the polymerization, especially the free-radical
polymerization, of one or more monomers containing reactive or
ethylenic double bond(s) with respect to a polymerization, namely a
vinyl, (meth)acrylic or allylic group, [0399] from the
polycondensation of one or more monomers bearing co-reactive groups
(carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), for
instance polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers or polyureas.
[0400] a) In general, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks)
of the semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention are
derived from monomer(s) containing crystallizable block(s) or
chain(s), used for manufacturing semi-crystalline polymers. These
polymers are chosen especially from homopolymers and copolymers
resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer
containing crystallizable chain(s) that may be represented by
formula X:
##STR00009##
[0401] with M representing an atom of the polymer backbone,
[0402] C representing a crystallizable group, and
[0403] S representing a spacer.
[0404] The crystallizable chains "--S--C" may be aliphatic or
aromatic, and optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. "C"
especially represents a group (CH.sub.2).sub.n, which may be linear
or branched or cyclic, with n being an integer ranging from 12 to
40. Preferably, "C" is a linear group. Preferably, "S" and "C" are
different.
[0405] When the crystallizable chains are hydrocarbon-based
aliphatic chains, they comprise hydrocarbon-based alkyl chains
containing at least 12 carbon atoms and not more than 40 carbon
atoms and better still not more than 24 carbon atoms. They are
especially aliphatic chains or alkyl chains containing at least 12
carbon atoms, and they are preferably C.sub.14-C.sub.24, preferably
C.sub.15-C.sub.22 alkyl chains. When they are fluoroalkyl or
perfluoroalkyl chains, they contain at least 11 carbon atoms, at
least 6 of which carbon atoms are fluorinated.
[0406] As examples of semi-crystalline homopolymers or copolymers
containing crystallizable chain(s), mention may be made of those
resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following
monomers: (meth)acrylates of saturated alkyls with the alkyl group
being C.sub.14-C.sub.24, perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates with a
C.sub.11-C.sub.15 perfluoroalkyl group, N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides
with the alkyl group being C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 with or without a
fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing alkyl or perfluoroalkyl
chains with the alkyl group being C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 (with at
least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain), vinyl ethers
containing alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains with the alkyl group
being C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 and at least 6 fluorine atoms per
perfluoroalkyl chain, C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 .alpha.-olefins such as,
for example, octadecene, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group
containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
[0407] When the polymers result from a polycondensation, the
hydrocarbon-based and/or fluorinated crystallizable chains as
defined above are borne by a monomer that may be a diacid, a diol,
a diamine or a diisocyanate.
[0408] When the polymers that are the subject of the invention are
copolymers, they additionally contain from 0 to 50% of groups Y
which is a polar or non-polar monomer or a mixture of the two.
[0409] When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer bearing
polyoxyalkylenated groups (especially oxyethylenated and/or
oxypropylenated groups), a hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate, for
instance hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth)acrylamide, an
N-alkyl(meth)acrylamide, an N,N-dialkyl(meth)acrylamide such as,
for example, N,N-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP),
N-vinylcaprolactam, a monomer bearing at least one carboxylic acid
group, for instance (meth)acrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic
acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid, or bearing a carboxylic acid
anhydride group, for instance maleic anhydride, and mixtures
thereof.
[0410] When Y is a non-polar monomer, it may be an ester of the
linear, branched or cyclic alkyl (meth)acrylate type, a vinyl
ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an .alpha.-olefin, styrene or styrene
substituted with a C.sub.1 to C.sub.10 alkyl group, for instance
.alpha.-methylstyrene, or a macromonomer of the polyorganosiloxane
type containing vinyl unsaturation.
[0411] For the purposes of the invention, the term "alkyl" means a
saturated group especially of C.sub.8 to C.sub.24, except where
otherwise mentioned.
[0412] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers containing a
crystallizable side chain are alkyl (meth)acrylate or
alkyl(meth)acrylamide homopolymers with an alkyl group as defined
above, and especially of C.sub.14-C.sub.24, copolymers of these
monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of different nature
from (meth)acrylic acid, for instance N-vinylpyrrolidone or
hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0413] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing a
crystallizable side chain has (have) a weight-average molecular
mass Mp ranging from 5000 to 1 000 000, preferably from 10 000 to
800 000, preferentially from 15 000 to 500 000 and more preferably
from 100 000 to 200 000.
[0414] As a particular example of a semi-crystalline polymer that
may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention
may be made of the Intelimer.RTM. products from the company Landec
described in the brochure "Intelimer.RTM. polymers", Landec IP22
(Rev. 4-97). These polymers are in solid form at room temperature
(25.degree. C.). They bear crystallizable side chains and have the
preceding formula X. They are poly(C.sub.10-C.sub.30)alkyl
acrylates, which are particularly suitable as semi-crystalline
polymers that may be included in a composition in accordance with
the present invention. These polymers may especially have a
molecular weight ranging from 15 000 to 500 000 and preferably from
100 000 to 200 000.
[0415] For example, the product Intelimer.RTM. IPA 13-1 from the
company Landec is chosen, which is a polystearyl acrylate with a
molecular weight of about 145 000 and a melting point of 49.degree.
C.
[0416] The semi-crystalline polymers may especially be those
described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7 and 9 of U.S. Pat. No. 5,156,911,
and more particularly from the copolymerization: [0417] of acrylic
acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of isodecyl acrylate in a 1/16/3
ratio, [0418] of acrylic acid and of pentadecyl acrylate in a 1/19
ratio, [0419] of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of ethyl
acrylate in a 2.5/76.5/20 ratio, [0420] of acrylic acid, of
hexadecyl acrylate and of methyl acrylate in a 5/85/10 ratio,
[0421] of acrylic acid and of polyoctadecyl (meth)acrylate in a
2.5/97.5 ratio.
[0422] It is also possible to use the polymer Structure "O" from
National Starch, such as the product described in document U.S.
Pat. No. 5,736,125 with a melting point of 44.degree. C.
[0423] The semi-crystalline polymers may in particular be
semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable pendent chains
comprising fluoro groups, as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8
of document WO-A-01/19333.
[0424] It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers
obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and of acrylic
acid or of NVP, as described in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,519,063 or
EP-A-550 745.
[0425] It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers
obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and of acrylic
acid or of NVP, as described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,519,063
and EP-A-0 550 745 and more especially those described in Examples
3 and 4 below, of polymer preparation.
[0426] B) Polymers bearing at least one crystallizable block in the
backbone
[0427] This is also a case of polymers that are soluble or
dispersible in the fatty phase by heating above their melting point
mp. These polymers are especially block copolymers consisting of at
least two blocks of different chemical nature, one of which is
crystallizable.
[0428] The polymer bearing at least one crystallizable block in the
backbone may be chosen from block copolymers of olefin or of
cycloolefin containing a crystallizable chain, for instance those
derived from the block polymerization of: [0429] cyclobutene,
cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (i.e.
bicyclo(2,2,1)-2-heptene), 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene,
5,6-dimethylnorbornene, 5,5,6-trimethylnorbornene,
5-ethylidenenorbornene, 5-phenylnorbornene, 5-benzylnorbornene,
5-vinylnorbornene,
1,4,5,8-dimethano-1,2,3,4,4a,5,8a-octahydronaphthalene,
dicyclopentadiene, or mixtures thereof, with [0430] ethylene,
propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene,
4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene or 1-eicosene, or mixtures
thereof,
[0431] and in particular copoly(ethylene/norbornene) blocks and
(ethylene/propylene/ethylidene-norbornene) block terpolymers. Those
resulting from the block copolymerization of at least two
C.sub.2-C.sub.16, better still C.sub.2-C.sub.12 .alpha.-olefins
such as those mentioned above and in particular block bipolymers of
ethylene and of 1-octene may also be used.
[0432] The polymer bearing at least one crystallizable block in the
backbone may be chosen from copolymers containing at least one
crystallizable block, the rest of the copolymer being amorphous (at
room temperature). These copolymers may also contain two
crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature.
[0433] The preferred copolymers are those that simultaneously
contain at room temperature a crystallizable block and an amorphous
block that are both hydrophobic and lipophilic, sequentially
distributed; mention may be made, for example, of polymers
containing one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the
amorphous blocks below: [0434] Block that is crystallizable by
nature, of polyester type, for instance poly(alkylene
terephthalate), or of polyolefin type, for instance polyethylenes
or polypropylenes. [0435] Amorphous and lipophilic block, for
instance: amorphous polyolefins or copoly(olefin)s such as
poly(isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene or hydrogenated
poly(isoprene).
[0436] As examples of such copolymers containing a crystallizable
block and an amorphous block, mention may be made of:
[0437] .alpha.) poly(.epsilon.-caprolactone)-b-poly(butadiene)
block copolymers, preferably used hydrogenated, such as those
described in the article D6 "Melting behavior of
poly(-caprolactone)-block-polybutadiene copolymers" from S, Nojima,
Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999),
[0438] .beta.) the hydrogenated block or multiblock poly(butylene
terephthalate)-b-poly(isoprene) block copolymers cited in the
article D7 "Study of morphological and mechanical properties of
PP/PBT" by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123
(1995),
[0439] .gamma.) the poly(ethylene)-b-copoly(ethylene/propylene)
block copolymers cited in the articles D8 "Morphology of
semi-crystalline block copolymers of
ethylene(ethylene-alt-propylene)" by P. Rangarajan et al.,
Macromolecules, 26, 4640-4645 (1993) and D9 "Polymer aggregates
with crystalline cores: the system
poly(ethylene)-poly(ethylene-propylene)" by P. Richter et al.,
Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997),
[0440] .delta.) the poly(ethylene)-b-poly(ethylethylene) block
copolymers cited in the general article D10 "Crystallization in
block copolymers" by I. W. Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science,
Vol. 148, 113-137 (1999).
[0441] C) Polycondensates of Aliphatic or Aromatic or
Aliphatic/Aromatic Polyester Type
[0442] The polyester polycondensates may be chosen from aliphatic
polyesters. Their molar mass is preferably greater than or equal to
200 and less than or equal to 10 000, and more preferably greater
than or equal to 300 and less than or equal to 5000, preferably
greater than or equal to 500 and greater than or equal to 2000
g/mol.
[0443] The polyester polycondensates are in particular chosen from
polycaprolactones. In particular, the polycaprolactones may be
chosen from .epsilon.-caprolactone homopolymers. The
homopolymerization may be initiated with a diol, especially a diol
containing from 2 to 10 atoms, such as diethylene glycol,
1,4-butanediol or neopentyl glycol.
[0444] Polycaprolactones may be used for example, especially those
sold under the name CAPA.RTM. 240 (melting point of 68.degree. C.
and molecular weight of 4000), 223 (melting point of 48.degree. C.
and molecular weight of 2000), 222 (melting point of 48.degree. C.
and molecular weight of 2000), 217 (melting point of 44.degree. C.
and molecular weight of 1250), 2125 (melting point of 45.degree. C.
and molecular weight of 1250), 212 (melting point of 45.degree. C.
and molecular weight of 1000), 210 (melting point of 38.degree. C.
and molecular weight of 1000), 205 (melting point of 39.degree. C.
and molecular weight of 830) by the company Solvay, or PCL-300 and
PCL-700 by the company Union Carbide.
[0445] CAPA.RTM. 2125 whose melting point is between 35 and
45.degree. C. and whose molecular weight is equal to 1250 may be
used in particular.
[0446] The semi-crystalline polymers in the composition of the
invention may or may not be partially crosslinked, provided that
the degree of crosslinking does not interfere with their
dissolution or dispersion in the fatty phase by heating above their
melting point. It may then be a chemical crosslinking, by reaction
with a multifunctional monomer during the polymerization. It may
also be a physical crosslinking which may, in this case, be due
either to the establishment of bonds of hydrogen or dipolar type
between groups borne by the polymer, such as, for example, the
dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these
interactions being of small amount and borne by the polymer
backbone; or to a phase separation between the crystallizable
blocks and the amorphous blocks borne by the polymer.
[0447] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers in the composition
according to the invention are non-crosslinked.
[0448] D) Copolymers of Ethylene and Propylene Prepared Via
Metallocene Catalysis
[0449] The semi-crystalline polymer of the composition of the
invention may also be a polymer obtained via metallocene catalysis,
such as those described in patent US 2007/0 031 361, the content of
which is incorporated herein by reference.
[0450] These polymers are copolymers of ethylene and propylene
prepared via metallocene catalysis, i.e. by polymerization at low
pressure and in the presence of a metallocene catalyst.
[0451] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these polymers
obtained via metallocene catalysis described in this document is
less than or equal to 25 000 g/mol and ranges, for example, from
2000 to 22 000 g/mol and better still from 4000 to 20 000
g/mol.
[0452] The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of these copolymers
obtained via metallocene catalysis described in this document is
preferably less than or equal to 15 000 g/mol and ranges, for
example, from 1000 to 12 000 g/mol and better still from 2000 to 10
000 g/mol.
[0453] The polydispersity index I of the polymer is equal to the
ratio of the weight-average molecular mass Mw to the number-average
molecular mass Mn.
[0454] Preferably, the polydispersity index of the copolymers is
between 1.5 and 10, preferably between 1.5 and 5, preferably
between 1.5 and 3 and better still between 2 and 2.5.
[0455] The copolymers may be obtained in a known manner from
ethylene and/or propylene monomers, for example via metallocene
catalysis according to the process described in document EP 571
882, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.
[0456] The copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via
metallocene catalysis may be unmodified or "polar"-modified (i.e.
modified such that they contain polar groups). The polar-modified
copolymers may be prepared in a known manner from unmodified
homopolymers and copolymers such as those described previously by
oxidation with gases containing oxygen, such as air, or by grafting
with polar monomers such as maleic acid or acrylic acid or
alternatively derivatives of these acids. These two routes enabling
polar modification of the polyolefins obtained via metallocene
catalysis are described, respectively, in documents EP 890 583 and
U.S. Pat. No. 5,998,547, for example, the content of these two
documents being incorporated herein by reference.
[0457] According to the present invention, the polar-modified
copolymers of ethylene and/or propylene prepared via metallocene
catalysis that are particularly preferred are polymers modified
such that they have hydrophilic properties. Examples that may be
mentioned include ethylene and/or propylene homopolymers or
copolymers modified by the presence of hydrophilic groups such as
maleic anhydride, acrylate, methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone
(PVP), etc.
[0458] Ethylene and/or propylene homopolymers or copolymers
modified by the presence of hydrophilic groups such as maleic
anhydride or acrylate are particularly preferred.
[0459] Examples that may be mentioned include: [0460] polypropylene
polymers modified with maleic anhydride (PPMA) sold by the company
Clariant, or polypropylene-ethylene-maleic anhydride copolymers,
such as those sold by the company Clariant under the name LicoCare,
for instance LicoCare PP207 LP3349, LicoCare CM401 LP3345, LicoCare
CA301 LP3346 and LicoCare CA302 LP3347.
[0461] In the context of a composition for the lips, a
polar-modified polymer with a low degree of crystallinity,
preferably of less than 40%, will be preferred.
[0462] The compositions may also comprise at least one film-forming
polymer.
[0463] Additional Polymer
[0464] The compositions according to the invention may contain a
film-forming polymer.
[0465] In the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer"
means a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an
auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a macroscopically
continuous deposit on keratin materials. The composition may
comprise an aqueous phase, and the film-forming polymer may be
present in this aqueous phase. In this case, it will preferably be
a polymer in dispersion or an amphiphilic or associative
polymer.
[0466] The term "polymer in dispersion" means water-insoluble
polymers present in the form of particles of variable size. The
polymer may or may not be crosslinked. The size of the polymer
particles is typically between 25 and 500 nanometres and preferably
between 50 and 200 nanometres. The following polymers in aqueous
dispersion may be used: Ultrasol 2075 from Ganz Chemical, Daitosol
5000 AD from Daito Kasei, Avalure UR 450 from Noveon, DynamX from
National Starch, Syntran 5760 from Interpolymer, Acusol OP 301 from
Rohm & Haas, and Neocryl A 1090 from Avecia.
[0467] The acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl
XK-90.RTM., Neocryl A-1070.RTM., Neocryl A-1090.RTM., Neocryl
BT-62.RTM., Neocryl A-1079.RTM. and Neocryl A-523.RTM. by the
company Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432.RTM. by the company Dow
Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD.RTM. or Daitosol 5000 SJ.RTM. by the
company Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760.RTM. by the company
Interpolymer, Soltex OPT by the company Rohm & Haas, aqueous
dispersions of acrylic or styrene/acrylic polymers sold under the
brand name Joncryl.RTM. by the company Johnson Polymer, or the
aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez
R-981.RTM. and Neorez R-974.RTM. by the company Avecia-Neoresins,
Avalure UR-405.RTM., Avalure UR-410.RTM., Avalure UR-425.RTM.,
Avalure UR-450.RTM., Sancure 875.RTM., Sancure 861.RTM., Sancure
878.RTM. and Sancure 2060.RTM. by the company Goodrich, Impranil
85.RTM. by the company Bayer and Aquamere H-1511.RTM. by the
company Hydromer; the sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name
Eastman AQ.RTM. by the company Eastman Chemical Products, and vinyl
dispersions, for instance Mexomer PAM.RTM. from the company Chimex,
and mixtures thereof, are other examples of aqueous dispersions of
water-dispersible film-forming polymer particles.
[0468] The term "amphiphilic or associative polymers" means
polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic parts that make them
partially water-soluble and one or more hydrophobic parts via which
the polymers associate or interact. The following associative
polymers may be used: Nuvis FX 1100 from Elementis, Aculyn 22,
Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 from Rohm & Haas, Viscophobe DB 1000
from Amerchol. Diblock copolymers formed from a hydrophilic block
(polyacrylate or polyethylene glycol) and from a hydrophobic block
(polystyrene or polysiloxane) may also be used.
[0469] The composition may comprise an oily phase and the
film-forming polymer may be present in this oily phase. The polymer
may then be in dispersion or in solution.
[0470] As examples of lipodispersible non-aqueous film-forming
polymer dispersions in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of
polymer particles in one or more silicone and/or hydrocarbon-based
oils, which may be surface-stabilized with at least one stabilizer,
especially a block, grafted or random polymer, mention may be made
of acrylic dispersions in isododecane, for instance Mexomer
PAP.RTM. from the company Chimex, and dispersions of particles of a
grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably an acrylic polymer, in a
liquid fatty phase, the ethylenic polymer advantageously being
dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of
the particles as described especially in document WO 04/055
081.
[0471] Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the
composition of the present invention, mention may be made of
synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type,
and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0472] The expression "free-radical film-forming polymer" means a
polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated and especially
ethylenically unsaturated monomers, each monomer being capable of
homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).
[0473] The film-forming polymers of free-radical type may
especially be vinyl polymers or copolymers, especially acrylic
polymers.
[0474] The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the
polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at
least one acidic group and/or esters of these acidic monomers
and/or amides of these acidic monomers.
[0475] Monomers bearing an acidic group that may be used are
.alpha.,.beta.-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as
acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or
itaconic acid. (Meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferably
used, and more preferably (meth)acrylic acid.
[0476] The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from
(meth)acrylic acid esters (also known as (meth)acrylates),
especially (meth)acrylates of an alkyl, in particular of a
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 and preferably C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkyl,
(meth)acrylates of an aryl, in particular of a C.sub.6-C.sub.10
aryl, and (meth)acrylates of a hydroxyalkyl, in particular of a
C.sub.2-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl.
[0477] The film-forming polymer may be chosen from block or random
polymers and/or copolymers especially comprising polyurethanes,
polyacrylics, silicones, fluoro polymers, butyl rubbers, ethylene
copolymers, natural gums and polyvinyl alcohols, and mixtures
thereof.
[0478] The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the
homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from
vinyl esters and styrene monomers.
[0479] Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned are vinyl
acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and
vinyl t-butylbenzoate.
[0480] Styrene monomers that may be mentioned are styrene and
.alpha.-methylstyrene.
[0481] Among the film-forming polycondensates that may be mentioned
are polyurethanes, polyesters, polyesteramides, polyamides,
epoxyester resins and polyureas.
[0482] The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic,
nonionic and amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics,
polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes,
polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas and polyurea-polyurethanes, and
mixtures thereof.
[0483] The polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by
polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially
diols.
[0484] According to one example of a composition according to the
invention, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved in a
liquid fatty phase comprising organic solvents or oils (the
film-forming polymer is thus said to be a liposoluble polymer). The
liquid fatty phase preferably comprises a volatile oil, optionally
mixed with a non-volatile oil.
[0485] Examples of liposoluble polymers that may be mentioned are
copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to
the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester containing a
saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 19
carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of at
least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (other than the
vinyl ester already present), an .alpha.-olefin (containing from 8
to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (in which the alkyl group
comprises from 2 to 18 carbon atoms) or an allylic or methallylic
ester (containing a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based
radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the
ester group).
[0486] These copolymers may be crosslinked with the aid of
crosslinking agents, which may be either of the vinyl type or of
the allylic or methallylic type, such as tetraallyloxyethane,
divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and
divinyl octadecanedioate.
[0487] Examples of liposoluble film-forming polymers that may be
mentioned include copolymers of a vinyl ester and of at least one
other monomer that may be a vinyl ester, especially vinyl
neodecanoate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate, an
.alpha.-olefin, an alkyl vinyl ether or an allylic or methallylic
ester.
[0488] Examples of liposoluble film-forming polymers that may also
be mentioned are liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those
resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters containing from
9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, and
alkyl radicals containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0489] Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of
polyvinyl stearate, polyvinyl stearate crosslinked with the aid of
divinylbenzene, of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate,
polystearyl (meth)acrylate, polyvinyl laurate and polylauryl
(meth)acrylate, it being possible for these poly(meth)acrylates to
be crosslinked with the aid of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or
tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
[0490] The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and are
described in particular in patent application FR-A-2 232 303; they
may have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 500
000 and preferably from 4000 to 200 000.
[0491] As liposoluble film-forming polymers that may be used in the
invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in
particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene,
alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
C1-C8 alkyl radical, for instance ethylcellulose and
propylcellulose.
[0492] The composition according to the invention may comprise a
plasticizer that promotes the formation of a film with the
film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from any
compound known to those skilled in the art as being capable of
fulfilling the desired function.
[0493] The compositions may also comprise at least one polymer
comprising at least two groups capable of interacting via hydrogen
bonding.
[0494] Polymer Comprising at Least Two Groups Capable of
Interacting Via Hydrogen Bonds
[0495] According to one particular embodiment, the polymer
comprising at least two groups capable of interacting via hydrogen
bonding is present in the composition in a total content ranging
from 0.5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight and better
still ranging from 8% to 45% by weight, for example ranging from
10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0496] According to the invention, the polymer comprising at least
two groups capable of interacting via hydrogen bonding may belong
to the following two families:
[0497] 1) polymers comprising at least two groups capable of
establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located
in the polymer chain, and/or
[0498] 2) polymers comprising at least two groups capable of
establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located
on grafts or branches.
[0499] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means
a compound containing at least two repeating units and preferably
at least three repeating units.
[0500] For the purposes of the invention, the term "repeating
units" means a unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms and
preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms, bearing hydrogen atoms and
optionally oxygen atoms, which may be linear, branched or cyclic,
and saturated or unsaturated. These units each also comprise one or
more non-pendent heteroatoms that are in the polymer backbone.
These heteroatoms are chosen from nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus and
silicon atoms and combinations thereof, optionally combined with
one or more oxygen atoms.
[0501] Preferably, these groups are chosen from amide, sulfonamide,
carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido,
guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof.
[0502] As polymers comprising at least two groups capable of
interacting via hydrogen bonding, examples that may be mentioned
include: [0503] polymers with a weight-average molecular mass of
less than 100 000, comprising a) a polymer backbone with
hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing at least one
heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendent fatty chain
and/or at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally
functionalized, containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being
linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in patent
applications WO-A-02/056 847 and WO-A-02/47619, the content of
which is incorporated herein by reference; in particular polyamide
resins (especially comprising alkyl groups containing from 12 to 22
carbon atoms) such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657,
the content of which is incorporated herein by reference, [0504]
silicone polyamide resins as described in patent application EP-A-1
266 647, and in the French patent application filed under No. 0 216
039, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference,
[0505] organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one carboxyl group,
and preferably organopolysiloxanes comprising at least two carboxyl
groups, per unit.
[0506] Such polymers comprising at least two groups capable of
interacting via hydrogen bonding are described especially in patent
application EP-A-1 400 234, the content of which is incorporated
herein by reference, and are described in greater detail
hereinbelow.
[0507] Silicone Polymer
[0508] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the
polymer comprising at least two groups capable of interacting via
hydrogen bonding is a silicone polyamide.
[0509] The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room
temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760
mmHg).
[0510] The silicone polyamides of the composition of the invention
may be polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type, for instance those
described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069, U.S. Pat. No.
5,919,441, U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680.
[0511] According to the invention, the silicone polymers may belong
to the following two families:
[0512] (1) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide
groups, these two groups being located in the polymer chain,
and/or
[0513] (2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide
groups, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
[0514] A) According to a first variant, the silicone polymers are
polyorganosiloxanes as defined above in which the amide units are
located in the polymer chain.
[0515] The silicone polyamides may more particularly be polymers
comprising at least one unit corresponding to the general formula
I:
##STR00010##
[0516] in which:
[0517] 1) G' represents C(O) when G represents --C(O)--NH--Y--NH--,
and G' represents --NH-- when G represents
--NH--C(O)--Y--C(O)--,
[0518] 2) R.sup.4, R.sup.6, R.sup.6 and R.sup.7, which may be
identical or different, represent a group chosen from: [0519]
linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated,
C.sub.1-C.sub.40 hydrocarbon-based groups, possibly containing in
their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and
possibly being partially or totally substituted with fluorine
atoms, [0520] C.sub.6-C.sub.10 aryl groups, optionally substituted
with one or more C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl groups, [0521]
polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or more oxygen,
sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms;
[0522] 3) the groups X, which may be identical or different,
represent a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkylenediyl group,
possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen
atoms;
[0523] 4) Y is a saturated or unsaturated, C.sub.1-C.sub.50 linear
or branched divalent alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene
or arylalkylene group, possibly comprising one or more oxygen,
sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or bearing as substituent one of
the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl,
C.sub.3-C.sub.8 cycloalkyl, C.sub.1-C.sub.40 alkyl,
C.sub.5-C.sub.10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3
C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl, C.sub.1-C.sub.3 hydroxyalkyl and
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 aminoalkyl groups; or
[0524] 5) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:
[0525] in which
##STR00011## [0526] T represents a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated, C.sub.3-C.sub.24 trivalent or tetravalent
hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a
polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms
chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen
from N, P and Al, and [0527] R.sup.8 represents a linear or
branched C.sub.1-C.sub.50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane
chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane,
thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups, which may
possibly be linked to another chain of the polymer;
[0528] 6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from
2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably
from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.
[0529] According to one embodiment of the invention, 80% of the
groups R.sup.4, R.sup.5, R.sup.6 and R.sup.7 of the polymer are
preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and
3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. According to another embodiment, 80%
of the groups R.sup.4, R.sup.5, R.sup.6 and R.sup.7 of the polymer
are methyl groups.
[0530] Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from:
[0531] a) linear C.sub.1 to C.sub.20 and preferably C.sub.1 to
C.sub.10 alkylene groups,
[0532] b) branched C.sub.30 to C.sub.56 alkylene groups possibly
comprising rings and unconjugated unsaturations,
[0533] c) C.sub.5-C.sub.6 cycloalkylene groups,
[0534] d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more
C.sub.1 to C.sub.40 alkyl groups,
[0535] e) C.sub.1 to C.sub.20 alkylene groups comprising from 1 to
5 amide groups,
[0536] f) C.sub.1 to C.sub.20 alkylene groups comprising one or
more substituents chosen from hydroxyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.8
cycloalkane, C.sub.1 to C.sub.3 hydroxyalkyl and C.sub.1 to C.sub.6
alkylamine groups,
[0537] g) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:
##STR00012##
[0538] in which R.sup.4, R.sup.5, R.sup.6, R.sup.7 and m are as
defined above.
[0539] B) According to the second variant, the silicone polyamides
may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to
formula (II):
##STR00013##
[0540] in which [0541] R.sup.4 and R.sup.6, which may be identical
or different, are as defined above for formula (I), [0542] R.sup.10
represents a group as defined above for R.sup.4 and R.sup.6, or
represents a group of formula --X-G''--R.sup.12 in which X is as
defined above for formula (I) and R.sup.12 represents a hydrogen
atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated,
C.sub.1-C.sub.50 hydrocarbon-based group optionally comprising in
its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally
substituted with one or more fluorine atoms and/or one or more
hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one
or more C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl groups,
[0543] and G'' represents --C(O)NH-- and --HN--C(O)--, [0544]
R.sup.11 represents a group of formula --X-G''--R.sup.12 in which
X, G'' and R.sup.12 are as defined above, [0545] m.sub.1 is an
integer ranging from 1 to 998, and [0546] m.sub.2 is an integer
ranging from 2 to 500.
[0547] According to the invention, the silicone polymer may be a
homopolymer, i.e. a polymer comprising several identical units, in
particular units of formula (I) or of formula (II).
[0548] According to the invention, it is also possible to use a
polymer consisting of a copolymer comprising several different
units of formula (I), i.e. a polymer in which at least one of the
groups R.sup.4, R.sup.5, R.sup.6, R.sup.7, X, G, Y, m and n is
different in one of the units. The copolymer may also be formed
from several units of formula (II), in which at least one of the
groups R.sup.4, R.sup.6, R.sup.10, R.sup.11, m.sub.1 and m.sub.2 is
different in at least one of the units.
[0549] It is also possible to use a polymer comprising at least one
unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II), the
units of formula (I) and the units of formula (II) possibly being
identical to or different from each other.
[0550] According to one variant of the invention, it is also
possible to use a polymer furthermore comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based unit comprising two amide groups, chosen from
ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea,
urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups, and
combinations thereof.
[0551] These copolymers may be block polymers or grafted
polymers.
[0552] In formulae (I) and (II), the alkylene group representing X
or Y can optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of
the following components:
[0553] 1) one to five amide, urea, urethane or carbamate
groups,
[0554] 2) a C.sub.5 or C.sub.6 cycloalkyl group, and
[0555] 3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3
identical or different C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl groups.
[0556] In formulae (I) and (II), the alkylene groups may also be
substituted with at least one component chosen from the group
consisting of: [0557] a hydroxyl group, [0558] a C.sub.3 to C.sub.8
cycloalkyl group, [0559] one to three C.sub.1 to C.sub.40 alkyl
groups, [0560] a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to
three C.sub.1 to C.sub.3 alkyl groups, [0561] a C.sub.1 to C.sub.3
hydroxyalkyl group, and [0562] a C.sub.1 to C.sub.6 aminoalkyl
group.
[0563] In these formulae (I) and (II), Y may also represent:
##STR00014##
[0564] in which R.sup.8 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T
represents a group of formula:
##STR00015##
[0565] in which a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging
from 1 to 10, and R.sup.13 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as
those defined for R.sup.4, R.sup.5, R.sup.6 and R.sup.7.
[0566] In formulae (I) and (II), R.sup.4, R.sup.5, R.sup.6 and
R.sup.7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched
C.sub.1 to C.sub.40 alkyl group, preferably a CH.sub.3,
C.sub.2H.sub.5, n-C.sub.3H.sub.7 or isopropyl group, a
polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted
with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
[0567] As has been seen previously, the polymer may comprise
identical or different units of formula (I) or (II).
[0568] Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing several
units of formula (I) or (II) of different lengths, i.e. a polyamide
corresponding to formula (III):
##STR00016##
in which X, Y, n and R.sup.4 to R.sup.7 have the meanings given
above, m.sub.1 and m.sub.2, which are different, are chosen in the
range from 1 to 1000, and p is an integer ranging from 2 to
300.
[0569] In this formula, the units may be structured to form either
a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating
copolymer. In this copolymer, the units may be not only of
different lengths, but also of different chemical structures, for
example containing different groups Y. In this case, the polymer
may correspond to formula IV:
##STR00017##
in which R.sup.4 to R.sup.7, X, Y, m.sub.1, m.sub.2, n and p have
the meanings given above and Y.sup.1 is different from Y but chosen
from the groups defined for Y. As previously, the various units may
be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random
copolymer or an alternating copolymer.
[0570] In this first embodiment of the invention, the silicone
polymer may also be formed from a grafted copolymer. Thus, the
polyamide containing silicone units may be grafted and optionally
crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups. Such
polymers may be synthesized with trifunctional amines.
[0571] According to the invention, as has been seen previously, the
siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer,
but they may also be present in grafted or pendent chains. In the
main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as
described above. In the pendent or grafted chains, the siloxane
units may appear individually or in segments.
[0572] According to one embodiment variant of the invention, a
copolymer of silicone polyamide and of hydrocarbon-based polyamide,
or a copolymer comprising units of formula (I) or (II) and
hydrocarbon-based polyamide units, may be used. In this case, the
polyamide-silicone units may be located at the ends of the
hydrocarbon-based polyamide.
[0573] Advantageously, the composition comprises at least one
polyamide/polydimethylsiloxane polymer, especially a polymer of
general formula (I) with an index m of greater than 50, in
particular greater than 75, especially between 50 and 200, for
example of about 100.
[0574] Advantageously, the silicone polyamide of formula (I) has a
weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10 000 to 500 000
g/mol.
[0575] More preferably, X and Y independently represent a group
chosen from linear C.sub.1 to C.sub.20 and preferably C.sub.1 to
C.sub.10 alkylene groups.
[0576] As examples of polymers that may be used, mention may be
made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with
Examples 1 to 3 of document U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680, such as the
product sold under the reference DC 2-8179 by Dow Corning.
[0577] According to one embodiment variant of the invention, the
polymer consists of a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane
or urea groups. These polymers are described in detail in patent
application WO 2003/106 614.
[0578] The first composition may contain, in place of the silicone
polyamide, a polyorganosiloxane polymer containing two or more
urethane and/or urea groups, either in the backbone of the polymer
or on side chains or as pendent groups.
[0579] The polymers comprising at least two urethane and/or urea
groups in the backbone may be polymers comprising at least one unit
corresponding to the following formula:
##STR00018##
[0580] in which R.sup.4, R.sup.5, R.sup.6, R.sup.7, X, Y, m and n
have the meanings given above for formula (I), and U represents
--O-- or --NH--, such that:
##STR00019##
[0581] corresponds to a urethane or urea group.
[0582] In this formula, Y may be a linear or branched
C.sub.1-C.sub.40 alkylene group, optionally substituted with a
C.sub.1-C.sub.15 alkyl group or a C.sub.5-C.sub.10 aryl group.
Preferably, a --(CH.sub.2).sub.6-- group is used.
[0583] The polymer constituting the silicone polymer may be formed
from silicone-urethane and/or silicone-urea units of different
length and/or constitution, and may be in the form of block,
sequenced or statistical (random) copolymers.
[0584] As in the case of the silicone polyamides of formula (I),
(II) or (III), silicone polyurethanes or polyureas having units of
different length and structure, in particular units of different
lengths via the number of silicone units, may be used in the
invention.
[0585] The polymers and copolymers used in the composition of the
invention advantageously have a transition temperature from the
solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45.degree. C. to
190.degree. C. Preferably, they have a transition temperature from
the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130.degree.
C. and better still from 80.degree. C. to 105.degree. C.
[0586] The silicone polyamide may be present in the first
composition in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging
from 5% to 50% by weight, better still ranging from 8% to 45% by
weight and preferably ranging from 10% to 40% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition.
[0587] Hydrocarbon-Based Polymer
[0588] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the
polymer comprising at least two groups capable of interacting via
hydrogen bonding is a polymer with a weight-average molecular mass
of less than 100 000, comprising a) a polymer backbone with
hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing at least one
heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendent fatty chain
and/or at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally
functionalized, containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being
linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in patent
applications WO-A-02/056 847 and WO-A-02/47619, the content of
which is incorporated herein by reference; in particular polyamide
resins (especially comprising alkyl groups containing from 12 to 22
carbon atoms) such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657,
the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.
[0589] The polymer according to the invention is an undeformable
solid at room temperature (25.degree. C.)
[0590] For the purposes of the invention, the term "functionalized
chains" means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional
groups or reagents chosen especially from hydroxyl, ether,
oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene, halogen, including fluoro or
perfluoro groups, and ester groups. In addition, the hydrogen atoms
of one or more fatty chains may be at least partially replaced with
fluorine atoms.
[0591] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based repeating units comprise
at least one nitrogen atom, in particular a non-pendent nitrogen
atom. These units also advantageously comprise a carbonyl
group.
[0592] The units containing a heteroatom are, in particular, amide
units forming a backbone of the polyamide type, carbamate and/or
urea units forming a polyurethane, polyurea and/or
polyurea-urethane backbone. These units are preferably amide units.
The pendent chains are advantageously linked directly to at least
one of the heteroatoms of the polymer backbone.
[0593] Between the hydrocarbon-based units, this polymer may
comprise silicone units or oxyalkylene units.
[0594] In addition, this polymer of the composition of the
invention advantageously comprises from 40% to 98% of fatty chains
relative to the total number of units containing a heteroatom and
of fatty chains, and better still from 50% to 95%. The nature and
proportion of the units containing a heteroatom depends on the
nature of the fatty phase and is, in particular, similar to the
polar nature of the fatty phase. Thus, the more the units
containing a heteroatom are polar and in high proportion in the
first polymer, which corresponds to the presence of several
heteroatoms, the greater the affinity of the first polymer for
polar oils. On the other hand, the less polar or even apolar the
units containing a heteroatom or the lower their proportion, the
greater the affinity of the first polymer for apolar oils.
[0595] This polymer is advantageously a polyamide. Thus, a subject
of the invention is also a composition containing, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polyamide polymer with
a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000, comprising a)
a polymer backbone containing amide repeating units, and b)
optionally at least one pendent fatty chain and/or at least one
terminal chain, which may be functionalized, containing from 8 to
120 carbon atoms and being linked to these amide units.
[0596] The pendent fatty chains are preferably linked to at least
one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units of this polymer.
[0597] In particular, the fatty chains of this polyamide represent
from 40% to 98% of the total number of amide units and of fatty
chains, and better still from 50% to 95%.
[0598] Advantageously, this polymer, and in particular this
polyamide, of the composition according to the invention has a
weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000 (especially
ranging from 1000 to 100 000), in particular less than 50 000
(especially ranging from 1000 to 50 000) and more particularly
ranging from 1000 to 30 000, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 and
better still from 2000 to 10 000.
[0599] This polymer, and in particular this polyamide, is insoluble
in water, especially at 25.degree. C. In particular, it contains no
ionic groups.
[0600] As preferred polymers that may be used in the invention,
mention may be made of polyamides branched with pendent fatty
chains and/or terminal fatty chains containing from 6 to 120 carbon
atoms and better still from 8 to 120 and in particular from 12 to
68 carbon atoms, each terminal fatty chain being linked to the
polyamide backbone via at least one bonding group, in particular an
ester. These polymers preferably comprise a fatty chain at each end
of the polymer backbone and in particular of the polyamide
backbone. Other bonding groups which may be mentioned are ether,
amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thiourea and thiourethane
groups.
[0601] These polymers are preferably polymers resulting from a
polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid containing at least 32
carbon atoms (in particular containing from 32 to 44 carbon atoms)
and an amine chosen from diamines containing at least 2 carbon
atoms (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms) and triamines
containing at least 2 carbon atoms (in particular from 2 to 36
carbon atoms). The diacid is preferably a dimer of a fatty acid
containing ethylenic unsaturation containing at least 16 carbon
atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, for instance oleic
acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid. The diamine is preferably
ethylenediamine, hexylenediamine or hexamethylenediamine. The
triamine is, for example, ethylenetriamine. For the polymers
comprising one or two terminal carboxylic acid groups, it is
advantageous to esterify them with a monoalcohol containing at
least four carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 36 carbon atoms,
better still from 12 to 24 and even better from 16 to 24, for
example 18 carbon atoms.
[0602] These polymers are more especially those disclosed in
document U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657 from the company Union Camp. Each
of these polymers in particular satisfies formula (I) below:
##STR00020##
[0603] in which n denotes a number of amide units such that the
number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total
number of ester and amide groups; R.sub.1 is, independently in each
case, an alkyl or alkenyl group containing at least 4 carbon atoms
and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; R.sub.2 represents,
independently in each case, a C.sub.4 to C.sub.42 hydrocarbon-based
group, on condition that 50% of the groups R.sub.2 represent a
C.sub.30 to C.sub.42 hydrocarbon-based group; R.sub.3 represents,
independently in each case, an organic group containing at least 2
carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or
nitrogen atoms; and R.sub.4 represents, independently in each case,
a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1 to C.sub.10 alkyl group or a direct bond
to R.sub.3 or to another R.sub.4, such that the nitrogen atom to
which R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 are both attached forms part of a
heterocyclic structure defined by R.sub.4--N--R.sub.3, with at
least 50% of the groups R.sub.4 representing a hydrogen atom.
[0604] In the particular case of formula (I), the terminal fatty
chains that are optionally functionalized for the purposes of the
invention are terminal chains linked to the last heteroatom, in
this case nitrogen, of the polyamide backbone.
[0605] In particular, the ester groups of formula (I), which form
part of the terminal and/or pendent fatty chains for the purposes
of the invention, represent from 15% to 40% of the total number of
ester and amide groups and better still from 20% to 35%.
Furthermore, n is advantageously an integer ranging from 1 to 5 and
better still greater than 2. Preferably, R.sub.1 is a C.sub.12 to
C.sub.22 and preferably C.sub.16 to C.sub.22 alkyl group.
Advantageously, R.sub.2 can be a C.sub.10 to C.sub.42
hydrocarbon-based (alkylene) group. Preferably, at least 50% and
better still at least 75% of the groups R.sub.2 are groups
containing from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other groups R.sub.2 are
C.sub.4 to C.sub.19 and better still C.sub.4 to C.sub.12
hydrogen-containing groups. Preferably, R.sub.3 represents a
C.sub.2 to C.sub.36 hydrocarbon-based group or a polyoxyalkylene
group and R.sub.4 represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R.sub.3
represents a C.sub.2 to C.sub.12 hydrocarbon-based group.
[0606] The hydrocarbon-based groups may be linear, cyclic or
branched, and saturated or unsaturated groups. Moreover, the alkyl
and alkylene groups may be linear or branched, and saturated or
unsaturated groups.
[0607] In general, the polymers of formula (I) are in the form of
mixtures of polymers, these mixtures also possibly containing a
synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (I) in
which n is 0, i.e. a diester.
[0608] As examples of polymers comprising at least two groups
capable of interacting via hydrogen bonding, which may be used in
the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of
the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under
the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. They are sold,
respectively, in the form of an 80% (in terms of active material)
gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (in terms of active material) gel.
They have a softening point of from 88 to 94.degree. C. These
commercial products are a mixture of copolymers of a C36 diacid
condensed with ethylenediamine, having a weight-average molecular
mass of about 6000. The terminal ester groups result from the
esterification of the remaining acid endings with cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (also known as cetylstearyl
alcohol).
[0609] As polymers comprising at least two groups capable of
interacting via hydrogen bonding, which may be used in the
compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made
of polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic
dicarboxylic acid and a diamine (including compounds containing
more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 amine groups), the carbonyl and
amine groups of adjacent individual units being condensed via an
amide bond. These polyamide resins are, in particular, those sold
under the brand name Versamid.RTM. by the companies General Mills
Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company
Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp. under the brand name Onamid.RTM., in
particular Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight-average
molecular mass ranging from 6000 to 9000. For further information
regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to the documents
U.S. Pat. No. 3,645,705 and U.S. Pat. No. 3,148,125. More
especially, Versamid.RTM. 930 or 744 is used.
[0610] The polyamides sold by the company Arizona Chemical under
the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665,
1554, 2623 and 2662) and the product sold under the reference
Macromelt 6212 by the company Henkel may also be used. For further
information regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to
document U.S. Pat. No. 5,500,209.
[0611] It is also possible to use polyamide resins, such as those
disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657 and U.S. Pat. No.
5,998,570.
[0612] The polymer present in the composition according to the
invention advantageously has a softening point of greater than
65.degree. C., which may be up to 190.degree. C. It preferably has
a softening point ranging from 70.degree. C. to 130.degree. C. and
better still from 80.degree. C. to 105.degree. C.
[0613] Dyestuffs
[0614] The compositions according to the invention may
advantageously contain a colouring agent, which may be chosen from
water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments and nacres, and
mixtures thereof.
[0615] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes and
pulverulent dyestuffs, for instance pigments, nacres and glitter
flakes that are well known to those skilled in the art. The
dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging
from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.01% to 30% by
weight, and in particular from 0.05% to 25% by weight, relative to
the weight of the composition.
[0616] The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or
coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an
aqueous solution and which are intended to colour and/or opacify
the resulting film.
[0617] The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to
20% by weight, especially from 0.01% to 15% by weight and in
particular from 0.02% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight
of the cosmetic composition.
[0618] As mineral pigments that may be used in the invention,
mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium
oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric
blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.
[0619] They may also be pigments with a structure that may be, for
example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type.
Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf
NS or JS by the company Chemicals & Catalysts.
[0620] The dyestuff may also comprise a pigment with a structure
that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing
iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the
product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball
PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being formed from silica microspheres
containing yellow iron oxide.
[0621] Among the organic pigments that may be used in the
invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C
type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium,
calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles
(DPP) described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787
731 and WO-A-96/08537.
[0622] The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning iridescent
or non-iridescent coloured particles of any form, especially
produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized,
and which have a colour effect by optical interference.
[0623] The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as
titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with
bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide,
titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments
based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at
the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers
of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
[0624] Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include
natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with
natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
[0625] Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be
made of the mica-based nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome sold
by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company
Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart,
and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company
Sun Chemical.
[0626] The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red,
bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
[0627] As illustrations of nacres that may be used in the context
of the present invention, mention may be made especially of the
gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under
the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne),
Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X
(Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck
under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353)
(Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze
(Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company
Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101
(Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange
(Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres
sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique
copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres
with a copper tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under
the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold
especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386)
(Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold especially by the
company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the
red nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company
Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres
sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale
G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold especially
by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB
(Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck
under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with
a silvery tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name
Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold
especially by the company Merck under the name Indian summer
(Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
[0628] The term "dyes" should be understood as meaning compounds
that are generally organic, which are soluble in fatty substances
such as oils or in an aqueous-alcoholic phase.
[0629] The liposoluble dyes may be chosen from Sudan red, DC Red
17, DC Green 6, n-carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2,
DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for
example, beetroot juice or methylene blue.
[0630] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also
contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.
[0631] This effect is different from a simple conventional hue
effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect as produced by
standard dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments. For the
purposes of the invention, the term "stabilized" means lacking an
effect of variability of the colour as a function of the angle of
observation or alternatively in response to a temperature
change.
[0632] For example, this material may be chosen from particles with
a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffracting
pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also
fibres, especially interference fibres. Needless to say, these
various materials may be combined so as to simultaneously afford
two effects.
[0633] The particles with a metallic tint that may be used in the
invention are chosen in particular from: [0634] particles of at
least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative, [0635]
particles comprising a monomaterial or multimaterial organic or
mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one coat
with a metallic tint comprising at least one metal and/or at least
one metal derivative, and [0636] mixtures of the particles.
[0637] Among the metals that may be present in the particles,
mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg,
Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or
alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or
alloys thereof (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred
metals.
[0638] The term "metal derivatives" is intended to denote compounds
derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and
sulfides.
[0639] As illustrations of these particles, mention may be made of
aluminium particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite
1200 EAC.RTM. by the company Siberline, and Metalure.RTM. by the
company Eckart.
[0640] Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or alloy
mixtures such as the reference 2844 sold by the company Radium
Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminium or bronze, such as
those sold under the name Rotosafe 700 from the company Eckart, the
silica-coated aluminium particles sold under the name Visionaire
Bright Silver from the company Eckart and metal alloy particles,
for instance the silica-coated bronze (alloy of copper and zinc)
powders sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from the
company Eckart.
[0641] They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate,
such as those sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under the name
Microglass Metashine.
[0642] The goniochromatic colouring agent may be chosen, for
example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal
colouring agents.
[0643] Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures
that may be used in the compositions prepared in accordance with
the invention are, for example, the following structures:
Al/SiO.sub.2/Al/SiO.sub.2/Al, pigments having this structure being
sold by the company DuPont de Nemours;
Cr/MgF.sub.2/Al/MgF.sub.2/Cr, pigments having this structure being
sold under the name Chromaflair by the company Flex;
MoS.sub.2/SiO.sub.2/Al/SiO.sub.2/MoS.sub.2;
Fe.sub.2O.sub.3/SiO.sub.2/Al/SiO.sub.2/Fe.sub.2O.sub.3, and
Fe.sub.2O.sub.3/SiO.sub.2/Fe.sub.2O.sub.3/SiO.sub.2/Fe.sub.2O.sub.3,
pigments having these structures being sold under the name
Sicopearl by the company BASF;
MoS.sub.2/SiO.sub.2/mica-oxide/SiO.sub.2/MoS.sub.2;
Fe.sub.2O.sub.3/SiO.sub.2/mica-oxide/SiO.sub.2/Fe.sub.2O.sub.3;
TiO.sub.2/SiO.sub.2/TiO.sub.2 and
TiO.sub.2/Al.sub.2O.sub.3/TiO.sub.2;
SnO/TiO.sub.2/SiO.sub.2/TiO.sub.2/SnO;
Fe.sub.2O.sub.3/SiO.sub.2/Fe.sub.2O.sub.3;
SnO/mica/TiO.sub.2/SiO.sub.2/TiO.sub.2/mica/SnO, pigments having
these structures being sold under the name Xirona by the company
Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the
pigments of silica/titanium oxide/tin oxide structure sold under
the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the pigments of
silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Indian
Summer by the company Merck and the pigments of silica/titanium
oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean
Blue by the company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite
Colors pigments from the company Shiseido. Depending on the
thickness and the nature of the various layers, different effects
are obtained. Thus, with the
Fe.sub.2O.sub.3/SiO.sub.2/Al/SiO.sub.2/Fe.sub.2O.sub.3 structure,
the colour changes from green-golden to red-grey for SiO.sub.2
layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO.sub.2 layers of
380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO.sub.2 layers of 410 to
420 nm; from copper to red for SiO.sub.2 layers of 430 to 440
nm.
[0644] Examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure
that may be mentioned include those sold by the company 3M under
the name Color Glitter.
[0645] Examples of liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles that may
be used include those sold by the company Chenix and also the
products sold under the name Helicone.RTM. HC by the company
Wacker.
[0646] Filler
[0647] A composition according to the invention may comprise a
filler, especially in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 30%, in
particular from 0.01% to 20% by weight, for example ranging from
0.1% to 15% or from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[0648] For the purposes of the present invention, the term
"fillers" should be understood as meaning colourless or white,
mineral or synthetic particles of any form, which are insoluble in
the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at
which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve
especially to modify the rheology or texture of the
composition.
[0649] The fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape,
platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the
crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal,
orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica,
kaolin, polyamide (Nylon.RTM.) powder (Orgasol.RTM. from Atochem),
poly-.beta.-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, powders of
tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon.RTM.), lauroyllysine, starch,
boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of
polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel.RTM.
(Nobel Industrie) or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap.RTM. from
the company Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads
(Tospearls.RTM. from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric
polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate,
magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite,
hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads.RTM. from Maprecos), glass
or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic
carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and
preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate,
magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium
myristate.
[0650] They may also be particles comprising a copolymer, the
copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it
may be a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol
hexyllactone. Such particles are especially commercially available,
for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400.RTM. or Plastic
Powder D-800.RTM. from the company Toshiki.
[0651] Additional Usual Cosmetic Ingredients
[0652] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
any usual cosmetic ingredient, which may be chosen especially from
antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents, neutralizers,
surfactants, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, moisturizers,
emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, free-radical
scavengers and sequestrants, and mixtures thereof.
[0653] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care
to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount
thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition
according to the invention are not, or are not substantially,
adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
[0654] A person skilled in the art may select the appropriate
galenical form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis
of his general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of
the constituents used, especially their solubility in the support,
and secondly the intended use of the composition.
[0655] Preferably, the composition according to the invention
comprises less than 3% and better still less than 1% by weight of
water relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more
preferably, the composition is totally anhydrous. The term
"anhydrous" especially means that water is preferably not
deliberately added to the composition, but may be present in trace
amount in the various compounds used in the composition.
[0656] The composition according to the invention may be intended
for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, especially the
lips and the skin, in particular the lips.
[0657] The examples that follow illustrate the invention in a
non-limiting manner.
[0658] The amounts are expressed as weight percentages.
[0659] Application Devices
[0660] Examples will now be given of devices for, inter alia,
performing a cosmetic treatment process comprising:
[0661] a) heating an application surface of a mass of solid
product, using an artificial source of heat located to the exterior
of the mass of product, especially an application surface of a wand
of product, to bring it to a temperature above that of a portion of
the mass of product remote from the application surface and which
remains solid during the application, and
[0662] b) applying the application surface thus heated to an area
to be treated, especially the skin or the lips.
[0663] The description of these devices is made with reference to
the attached drawing, in which, as explained above:
[0664] FIG. 1 shows schematically, in elevation, an example of a
conditioning and application device made in accordance with the
invention,
[0665] FIG. 2 shows in isolation, with partial and schematic
longitudinal cutaway, the cap of the device of FIG. 1,
[0666] FIG. 3 illustrates, schematically and partially, the heating
of the wand by contact with a hot surface,
[0667] FIG. 4 represents, schematically and partially, one
embodiment example of the heating member,
[0668] FIGS. 5 to 7 illustrate production details of variants of
heating members,
[0669] FIG. 8 represents, schematically, an embodiment variant of
the conditioning and application device,
[0670] FIG. 9 is a schematic and partial cutaway of the device of
FIG. 8, after insertion in the corresponding housing of the
case,
[0671] FIG. 10 shows a wand and associated support means,
[0672] FIG. 11 shows in elevation an embodiment variant of the
conditioning and application device,
[0673] FIG. 12 is a partial and schematic longitudinal cutaway of
the device of FIG. 11,
[0674] FIG. 13 is a partial and schematic longitudinal cutaway of
an embodiment variant of the device,
[0675] FIG. 14 is a product conditioning variant, and
[0676] FIG. 15 described previously illustrates the measurement of
the coefficient of dynamic friction.
[0677] The conditioning and application device 1 shown in FIG. 1
comprises a base part 2 that supports a mass of product according
to the invention in the form of a wand S of product, and a cap 3
and that can be attached to the base part 2 to close the device 1
when not in use.
[0678] The base part 2 may be of any known type for removing the
wand S gradually as it is consumed.
[0679] The base part 2 comprises, for example, two parts 5 and 6
that can rotate relative to each other, and a mechanism for
transforming the relative rotation of the two parts 5 and 6 into an
axial movement along the longitudinal axis X of the wand S.
[0680] The wand S is borne, for example, in this mechanism, by a
cup 58 as shown in FIG. 10, comprising spurs 59 engaged in two
pieces belonging, respectively, to parts 5 and 6, one of which
comprises longitudinal rectilinear slits and the other spiral
slits, such that a rotation of these two pieces is accompanied by
an axial movement of the cup and of the wand S.
[0681] Examples of mechanisms that may be suitable for use are
described in the publications U.S. Pat. No. 6,340,258, U.S. Pat.
No. 6,086,276, U.S. Pat. No. 6,371,673, U.S. Pat. No. 5,171,096 and
U.S. Pat. No. 7,293,926, the content of which is incorporated
herein by reference.
[0682] The cap 3 comprises a heating device 10 for heating the end
11 of the wand S prior to its application to the keratin materials,
for example the skin or the lips.
[0683] The heating device 10 may house a power source, not shown,
for example containing one or more batteries or accumulators, and a
heating member comprising, for example, an electrical resistance
powered by the power source.
[0684] Examples of heating members that may be suitable for use are
disclosed in US 2007/0 286 665 A1, for example.
[0685] The heating member is arranged so as to raise the
temperature of a heating surface 13 which, in the example of FIGS.
1 and 2, may come into contact with the wand S, as shown in FIG. 3,
so as to raise the temperature of the distal end 11 thereof.
[0686] The heating device 10 may comprise a switch 14 that allows
the user to switch the heating device 10 on or off, and also an
operating indicator 15, for example an indicator light that lights
up when the heating surface 13 is undergoing heating.
[0687] The heating device 10 may optionally comprise any means for
regulating the temperature of the heating surface 13, so that it
does not exceed a predefined value.
[0688] When the heating surface is inaccessible to the user, a
heating temperature that is higher but compatible with the product
may be accepted. On the other hand, when the heating surface 13 may
come into contact with the user, a temperature not exceeding
65.degree. C. is preferred.
[0689] The heating device 10 may also, where appropriate, comprise
a timer for heating the end 11 of the wand S only for a predefined
time, so as to avoid premature wear of the electrical power source
and/or to avoid bringing the wand assembly to an excessive
temperature.
[0690] The heating device 10 may advantageously comprise any
suitable sensor for preventing the start of functioning of the
heating except in the case of effective contact of the heating
surface with the end 11 of the wand S.
[0691] For example, the heating device 10 may comprise a contact
pressure sensor between the heating surface 13 and the wand S, and
permit heating of the heating surface 13 only in the case of
veritable contact with the wand S.
[0692] The heating surface 13 may be defined, for example, by a
contact piece 20, which is, for example, axially mobile along the
axis X relative to the body 22 of the heating device 10 against the
return action of an elastic return member 23, for instance a spring
housed inside the contact piece 20, as illustrated in FIG. 4.
[0693] This FIG. 4 shows a heating device comprising an electrical
resistance 25 placed in the bottom of the contact piece 20, so as
to be as close as possible to the heating surface 13.
[0694] The contact piece 20 may comprise, for example, a metal that
is a good heat conductor, with a low wall thickness, so as to have
low thermal inertia. In certain embodiments, the contact piece 20
may, for example, comprise aluminium.
[0695] The heating surface 13 may be given any shape adapted to the
geometry of the end 11 of the wand, for example a beveled shape
substantially complementary to the shape of the end 11 of the wand
S, as illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2, or another shape, for example a
concave shape towards the wand S, especially a spherical crown
shape as illustrated in FIG. 5, a conical or frustoconical shape as
illustrated in FIG. 6, or a substantially flat shape perpendicular
to the axis X, as illustrated in FIG. 7.
[0696] When the shape of the heating surface 13 is not rotationally
symmetric about the axis X, the device 1 may comprise rotational
indexing means for the base part 2 and the cap 3 so as to enable
attachment of the cap 3 to the base part 2 only in one predefined
angular orientation between the two, in which the heating surface
can come to rest in a predefined manner, which is compatible with
its geometry, against the wand S.
[0697] The wand S, which is, for example, a lipstick wand, may have
a cross section of between 0.1 and 5 cm.sup.2, or even between 0.15
and 1 cm.sup.2, and the device 1 may be used by first switching on
the heating device 10 and then waiting for the time necessary for
the end 11 of the wand that defines the application surface to be
brought to the desired temperature.
[0698] Arrival at the operating temperature may be indicated, for
example, by the indicator light 15, which may pass, for example,
from being a continuous light indicating the startup of the device,
to a flashing light or a colour change when the temperature is
reached. Other methods for indicating the operating state may be
used without, however, departing from the scope of the
invention.
[0699] Once the end of the wand has been heated, the base part 2
may be separated from the cap 3 and the user can apply the product
of the wand onto the lips or other keratin materials. Softening of
the product at the end 11 of the wand ensures comfortable
application and good transfer onto the lips, with a thick and
optionally glossy deposit on application.
[0700] For example, the application is performed without using an
applicator. In other words, only the composition, and more
precisely the softened surface, comes into direct contact with the
area to be treated.
[0701] The body of the wand S is at room temperature or at a
slightly higher temperature, but insufficient to compromise the
mechanical strength necessary to withstand the mechanical efforts
generated by the application. The temperature difference between
the application surface and the body of the wand, especially at the
end opposite the application surface, is, for example, at least
20.degree. C., or even at least 30.degree. C. when the wand has its
initial length, on the first use.
[0702] The device 1 may be used in a similar manner for making up
the skin, and the wand may then be of greater cross section, where
appropriate.
[0703] It may be that the heating device is not incorporated into a
cap 3 of the conditioning device, but is present in a case 40
separate from the conditioning device of the wand S, as illustrated
in FIGS. 8 and 9.
[0704] The case 40 may house a power source and/or may comprise a
means for connecting to a power source, for example the mains
supply, via a low-voltage transformer.
[0705] The case 40 may also comprise startup means 41, for instance
an on/off switch, and also one or more indicator lights 42 and 55
to indicate the live power connection and/or the end of arrival at
the operating temperature.
[0706] In the example of FIGS. 8 and 9, the case 40 comprises an
aperture 46 into which the base part 2 may be at least partially
introduced, as illustrated in FIG. 9, so as to bring the end 11 of
the wand in the vicinity of a heating means 50 present in the case
40.
[0707] The aperture 46 has, for example, a cross section adapted to
one of the pieces of the base part, so that the engagement of the
base part in the case brings the end 11 of the wand into a
predefined position, according to at least two spatial directions,
relative to the heating means.
[0708] The case 40 may comprise any suitable sensor 51 for
detecting the insertion of the base part 2 into the case 40 and
optionally the positioning of the wand relative to the heating
means.
[0709] Heating of the end of the wand S may take place by
conduction, on contact with a hot surface, in the manner described
above. In this case, the heating means comprises a heating surface
that may be brought to the appropriate temperature by any heating
means, for example an electrical resistance.
[0710] Heating of the end of the wand may also be performed without
contact, for example by infrared radiation and/or convection,
and/or by vibrations and/or wireless radiation, or any other source
that produces heat.
[0711] As mentioned above, the case 40 may comprise any suitable
sensor, especially an optical sensor, that is capable of evaluating
the distance between the end 11 of the wand and the heating means
50, so as to switch on the heating means only when a predefined
distance is respected and/or so as to control the heating power as
a function of the remoteness between the heating means and the end
of the wand S.
[0712] In certain variants, the heating means 50 may be a system of
heating by emission of infrared radiation towards the end 11 of the
wand, for example using a halogen or incandescent lamp, or by
blowing hot air towards the end 11.
[0713] In certain variants, the end 11 of the wand S may also be
heated by exposure to wireless radiation, for example microwaves,
focused at the end 11 of the wand S.
[0714] In yet other variants, the end 11 of the wand S may be
heated by ultrasonic vibrations.
[0715] In the embodiment variant of FIGS. 11 and 12, the heating
device 60 comprises a heating means 62 that is an integral part of
the base part 2 and that may comprise, as illustrated, a
circular-shaped heating member 62, through which the wand S may
pass. The heating member 62 has, for example, a cross section
greater than or equal to that of the wand S.
[0716] The heating device 60 may comprise, for example, a control
member 64 which the user may press to start the functioning of the
heating member 62. The heating member 62 may comprise, for example,
a heating resistance for heating the end 11 of the wand S by
conduction, convection and/or radiation (for example infrared,
microwave, etc. radiation).
[0717] Where appropriate, the heating member 62 may also
participate in the application of the product associated with the
wand S, and, to this end, may have a top face 70 of suitable shape,
for example beveled.
[0718] To use the device in the example under consideration, the
user can bring the end 11 of the wand to the heating member 62 and
start the heating by pressing on the control member 64.
[0719] The heating device may comprise an indicator light 72 that
indicates to the user that the heating member 62 is
functioning.
[0720] The user can then stop the heating when he visually observes
that the end 11 of the wand has become changed in appearance
following the raising of the temperature, for example when it has
become glossy.
[0721] The user can then optionally, at this moment, move the end
11 slightly higher upward so as to facilitate the application of
the product, without contact with the heating member 62. As a
variant, the user can apply the product via contact not only of the
wand S, but also of the heating member 62, on the lips or the
skin.
[0722] Where appropriate, the surface of the heating member 62
liable to come into contact with the skin may be flocked or may
have a textured surface aspect that facilitates application.
[0723] In the variant shown in FIG. 13, the wand S passes through a
heating member 62 defining an aperture whose cross section is
narrower than the cross section of the body of the wand.
[0724] Softening of the wand S on contact with the heating member
62 may thus be accompanied, in this example, by a deformation of
the wand through the heating member 62. This may increase the
precision of application of the product and prevent the wand S from
being advanced relative to the heating member 62 before sufficient
softening has been reached.
[0725] The outer surface of the heating member 62 may be tapered,
as shown in FIG. 13, so as to reduce the contact surface between
the treated area and the heating member 62.
[0726] FIG. 14 shows an embodiment variant in which the mass of
product S associated with the wand S is supported by a stem 200,
and is suitable, for example, for single use.
[0727] The application surface 202 is heated by being brought, for
example, into contact with or close to a hot surface, for example
by introducing it into a case equipped with a heating means such as
the case described previously with reference to FIGS. 8 and 9.
[0728] In the present text, the contents, unless specifically
mentioned, are expressed on a weight basis relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[0729] The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the
examples described below, which are given as non-limiting
illustrations. The percentages are weight percentages. In the
examples that follow, the weight percentages are indicated relative
to the total weight of the composition.
EXAMPLES
Example 1
Lipstick Composition
[0730] A lipstick according to the invention was prepared, having
the following composition:
TABLE-US-00001 Composition Phase Ingredients Function 1 (weight %)
A OCTYLDODECANOL FATTY 5 SUBSTANCE DIISOSTEARYL MALATE FATTY 10
SUBSTANCE B POLYBUTENE (Indopol POLYMER 10 H 100 from INEOS)
POLYESTER: Pentaeryth- POLYMER 20 ritol 20/benzoic acid
4/isostearic acid 56/ isophthalic acid 20 (as prepared in Example 2
of EP-A-1 870 082) C BIS-BEHENYL/ISO- FATTY 10 STEARYL/PHYTO-
SUBSTANCE STERYL DIMER DI- LINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE (Plandool G
from Nippon Fine Chemical) BIS-DIGLYCERYL FATTY 14.72
POLYACYLADIPATE-2 SUBSTANCE (Softisan 649 from Sasol) POLYESTER of
C36 FATTY 10 ACID DIMER and of SUBSTANCE HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL
(Risocast from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo) D POLYETHYLENE FATTY 10
(Performalene 400 from SUBSTANCE New Phase Technologies) E BLUE 1
LAKE DYE 1.2 TITANIUM OXIDE DYE 2.63 RED 28 LAKE DYE 1.65 IRON
OXIDE DYE 4.8 Total 100
[0731] Protocol:
[0732] In a first stage, the pigments of phase E are dispersed in
part of phase A.
[0733] The rest of the liposoluble ingredients of phase B and C and
the waxes of phase D are mixed together at a temperature of
100.degree. C., followed by addition thereto of the ground material
and the rest of phase A. The whole is mixed at a temperature of
100.degree. C. until a thoroughly uniform mixture is obtained.
[0734] Finally, the composition is poured in a mould to give it the
shape of a stick 11.06 mm in diameter. The mould is then placed in
a freezer at -18.degree. C.
[0735] The hardness of the stick at 20.degree. C. is 124
Nm.sup.-1.
[0736] Evaluation:
[0737] At room temperature (20.degree. C.), the composition thus
obtained, when it is applied to the lips, transfers very little and
is very tacky (slides poorly on the lips and disintegrates with
difficulty).
[0738] On the other hand, after heating the end of the stick
(generally of bevelled shape), at 60.degree. C. for 10 seconds, it
is possible to apply the stick easily (with good glidance and easy
disintegration) to the lips and to obtain a thick makeup
deposit.
[0739] Furthermore, the makeup deposited on the lips with the
preheated composition 1 shows improved remanence of the colour and
also improved gloss when compared with the makeup deposit obtained
with the same composition 1 that has not been heated, applied at
room temperature (20.degree. C.)
Example 2
Lipstick Composition
[0740] A lipstick according to the invention was prepared, having
the following composition:
TABLE-US-00002 Composition 2 according to the invention Phase
Ingredients Function (weight %) A OCTYLDODECYL PPG-3 FATTY 2.28
MYRISTYL ETHER DIMER SUBSTANCE DILINOLEATE (Liquiwax polyEFA OR
from Arch Personal Care) TRIDECYL FATTY 2.28 TRIMELLITATE SUBSTANCE
B Trimethyl 1,1,3,5,5- SILICONE 50.36 pentaphenyl trisilox- ane
(PH-1555 HRI from Dow Corning) C POLYESTER: Pentaeryth- POLYMER 20
ritol 20/benzoic acid 4/isostearic acid 56/ isophthalic acid 20 (as
prepared in Example 2 of EP-A-1 870 082) D HYDROGENATED COCO- FATTY
2 GLYCERIDES (Softisan SUBSTANCE 100 from SASOL) VINYL
ACETATE/ALLYL POLYMER 3.95 STEARATE COPOLYMER (65/35) (Mexomer PQ
from Chimex) POLYVINYL LAURATE POLYMER 5.92 (Mexomer PP from
Chimex) POLYSTEARYL ACRYLATE POLYMER 2.96 (Intelimer IPA 13-1 from
Air Products & Chemicals) E HYDROGENATED JOJOBA FATTY 2 OIL
(Jojoba Wax Flakes SUBSTANCE from Desert Whale) MICROCRYSTALLINE
WAX FATTY 3 (Base Wax 30540 from SUBSTANCE Paramelt) C30-50
ALCOHOLS SURFACTANT 1 (Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase
Technologies) F TITANIUM OXIDE DYE 1.37 YELLOW 6 LAKE DYE 1.29 RED
7 DYE 0.3 BLUE 1 LAKE DYE 0.08 BLACK IRON OXIDE DYE 0.16 G
MICA-TITANIUM NACRE 1 DIOXIDE-BROWN IRON OXIDE FRAGRANCE FRAGRANCE
0.05 Total 100%
[0741] Protocol:
[0742] In a first stage, the pigments of phase F are dispersed in
part of phase A and part of phase B.
[0743] The rest of the liposoluble ingredients of phase C and D and
the waxes of phase E are mixed together at a temperature of
100.degree. C., followed by addition thereto of the ground material
and the rest of phase B. The whole is mixed at a temperature of
100.degree. C. until a thoroughly uniform mixture is obtained.
[0744] Finally, the composition is poured in a mould to give it the
shape of a stick 11.06 mm in diameter. The mould is then placed in
a freezer at -18.degree. C.
[0745] The hardness of the stick at 20.degree. C. is 117
Nm.sup.-1.
[0746] Evaluation:
[0747] At room temperature (20.degree. C.), the composition thus
obtained, when it is applied to the lips, transfers very little and
is very tacky (slides poorly on the lips and disintegrates with
difficulty).
[0748] On the other hand, after heating the end of the stick
(generally of bevelled shape), at 60.degree. C. for 10 seconds, it
is possible to apply the stick easily (with good glidance and easy
disintegration) to the lips and to obtain a thick makeup
deposit.
[0749] Furthermore, the makeup deposited on the lips with the
preheated composition 2 shows improved remanence of the colour and
also improved gloss when compared with the makeup deposit obtained
with the same composition 2 that has not been heated, applied at
room temperature (20.degree. C.)
[0750] It is also observed that the makeup deposit produced with
the preheated composition 2 shows, compared with that produced with
the preheated composition 1, improved remanence of the colour, and
also improved gloss immediately after application.
[0751] The above written description of the invention provides a
manner and process of making and using it such that any person
skilled in this art is enabled to make and use the same, this
enablement being provided in particular for the subject matter of
the appended claims, which make up a part of the original
description.
[0752] As used herein, the words "a" and "an" and the like carry
the meaning of "one or more." The phrases "selected from the group
consisting of," "chosen from," and the like include mixtures of the
specified materials. Terms such as "contain(s)" and the like are
open terms meaning `including at least` unless otherwise
specifically noted.
[0753] All references, patents, applications, tests, standards,
documents, publications, brochures, texts, articles, etc. mentioned
herein are incorporated herein by reference. Where a numerical
limit or range is stated, the endpoints are included. Also, all
values and subranges within a numerical limit or range are
specifically included as if explicitly written out.
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