U.S. patent application number 12/808332 was filed with the patent office on 2011-09-15 for method of protecting dyed hair color from fading or wash-out.
Invention is credited to Linda C. Foltis, Donna N. Laura, David J. Moore, Raymond Rigoletto, JR., Yan Zhou.
Application Number | 20110219552 12/808332 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 40824654 |
Filed Date | 2011-09-15 |
United States Patent
Application |
20110219552 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Zhou; Yan ; et al. |
September 15, 2011 |
Method of Protecting Dyed Hair Color from Fading or Wash-Out
Abstract
A method of protecting dyed hair color from fading or wash-out
during exposure to air and/or shampooing is described. In
accordance with one aspect the method includes treating dyed hair
with a composition containing (i) a hydrophobically modified
quaternary polymer, (ii) a hydrophobically modified polymer plus a
cationic surfactant, (iii) a polymer containing diethylaminopropyl
methacrylamide (DMAPMA), dimethylaminoethyl methacrylamide (DMAEMA)
or diethylaminoethyl methacrylamide (DEAEMA) or (iv) a combination
thereof.
Inventors: |
Zhou; Yan; (Montville,
NJ) ; Laura; Donna N.; (Nutley, NJ) ;
Rigoletto, JR.; Raymond; (Denville, NJ) ; Moore;
David J.; (Montclair, NJ) ; Foltis; Linda C.;
(Nutley, NJ) |
Family ID: |
40824654 |
Appl. No.: |
12/808332 |
Filed: |
December 17, 2008 |
PCT Filed: |
December 17, 2008 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/US08/87188 |
371 Date: |
April 13, 2011 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
61018055 |
Dec 31, 2007 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
8/442 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/8182 20130101;
A61K 8/898 20130101; A61K 2800/5426 20130101; A61Q 5/004 20130101;
A61K 8/731 20130101; A61K 8/86 20130101; A61K 8/737 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
8/442 |
International
Class: |
D06P 5/08 20060101
D06P005/08 |
Claims
1. A method of protecting dyed hair color from fading or wash-out
during exposure to air and/or shampooing which comprises treating
said dyed hair with a composition which comprises a polymer
selected from the group consisting of: a. hydrophobically modified
quaternary polymers wherein the polymer contains an alkyl moiety
with more than 3 carbon atoms; b. hydrophobically modified polymers
plus a cationic surfactant wherein the polymer contains an alkyl
moiety with at least 3 carbon atoms; c. polymers containing
diethylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPMA) or dimethylaminoethyl
methacrylamide (DMAEMA) or diethylaminoethyl methacrylamide
(DEAEMA); and d. combinations thereof.
2. A method according to claim 1 wherein said polymer is a cationic
polymer.
3. A method according to claim 1 wherein said polymer is a
quaternized polymer wherein the alkyl moiety is either attached to
the quaternary unit or to another location of the polymer.
4. A method according to claim 3 wherein said polymer has the
general formula (R,R',R'', N-).sup.+X.sup.-, wherein R, R', are
identical or different and can be aliphatic or carry additional
substituents; R'' is an alkyl chain with a carbon atom number above
3, X.sup.- represents an anion and N can be part of a heterocyclic
or aromatic ring.
5. A method according to claim 4 wherein R'' contains from 5 to 22
carbon atoms.
6. A method according to claim 1 wherein said composition is
applied to the dyed hair in a leave-in manner prior to first
shampooing or rinsing and the leave-in treatment is repeated after
each shampoo or rinsing.
7. A method according to claim 1 wherein said polymer has both
hydrophobic moieties and sufficient cationic charge density to
maintain substantivity to hair while providing a hydrophic barrier
to lock-in hair dye.
8. A method according to claim 1 wherein said composition comprises
a hydrophobically modified polymer plus a cationic surfactant.
9. A method according to claim 8 characterized in that the cationic
surfactant is a quaternized surfactant selected from the group
consisting of quaternary ammonium compounds of the general formula
(R,R',R'',R'''N).sup.+X.sup.-, wherein R, R', R'' and R''' can be
identical or different, aliphatic or carry additional substituents,
X.sup.- represents an anion and N is part of a heterocyclic or
aromatic ring.
10. A method according to claim 1 wherein said polymer is selected
from the group consisting of a terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone(VP),
dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPMA), and
methacryloylaminopropyl lauryldimonium chloride (MAPLDAC); alkyl
substituted quaternized cellulose polymers; quaternized
hydroxyethyl cellulose polymers with cationic substitution of
trimethyl ammonium and dimethyldodecyl ammonium; stearyldimonium
hydroxylethyl or propyl cellulose; Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl
oxyethyl cellulose; Polyquaternium-24, -41 or 42; nonionic
hydrophobically modified polymers, copolymers of PEG-150, decyl
alcohol and saturated methylene diphenyldiisocyanate; nonionic guar
gum with alkyl groups; hydroxypropyl Guar; PVP/Eicosene copolymer;
Nonoxynyl hydroxylcellulose; cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose;
hydroxypropylcellulose; hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose and
combinations thereof.
11. A method according to claim 1 wherein said polymer comprises
about 0.1-10% by weight of said composition.
12. A method according to claim 1 wherein said dye is retained in
an amount of at least 10% after multiple shampoo treatments.
13. A method according to claim 1 wherein the polymer is included
in the shampoo or conditioner used in the subsequent shampoo
treatment.
14. A method according to claim 1 wherein said composition does not
contain a dye.
15. A method according to claim 1 wherein said polymer is applied
in a leave-in treatment formulation.
16. A method according to claim 16 wherein said leave in treatment
formulation is a gel, cream, mousse or spray.
17. A method according to claim 1 wherein said shampoo includes
conditioner.
18. A method of protecting dyed hair color from fading which
comprises applying a composition comprising a terpolymer of
VP-DMAPMA-C12quat, in a leave-in manner in an amount of 0.1-3% by
weight, optionally in a 2-in-1 shampoo, to provide at least 10% dye
color protection measured as dE change after 10 washes.
19. A method according to claim 11 wherein said polymer comprises
about 0.1-3% of said composition.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] This invention relates to a method of protecting dyed hair
color from fading or wash-out, and more particularly, to the use of
particular polymers, such as hydrophobically modified polymers, for
dyed hair color protection against shampoo treatments.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The coloring of hair has become increasingly popular in
recent years. However, fading of artificial hair color has become a
common problem and a frequent complaint by consumers. Fading can
occur during the shampoo washing treatment as color wash-out, or
can be initiated by environmental circumstances, such as by
exposure to UV radiation. The washing process is the most
significant factor in the removal of hair color, while UV exposure
had a significant impact only after 90 hours of intense
irradiation. S. Marchioretto, "The Use of Silicones as a Color Lock
Aid in Rinse-Off Hair Conditioners", J. of Cosmetic Science, 2003
Annual Scientific Meeting, pp. 130-131. Furthermore, the
surfactants present in shampoo formulations provide a wetting
function which brings moisture into the hair shaft, thus
facilitating the removal of the dye molecules to exit during the
water rinsing process.
[0003] Maintaining hair color and minimizing hair color fading is
highly desirable in the hair care market. Several anti-fading
products exist in the market including anti-fading shampoos and
conditioners. Some products contain silicones such as dimethicone
and amodimethicone, which are believed to effect color retention.
See A. Schlosser, "Silicones Used in Permanent and Semi-Permanent
Hair Dyes to Reduce the Fading and Color Change Process of Dyed
Hair Occurring by Wash-Out or UV Radiation", J. Cosmetic Sci., 55
(Supplement), pp. 123-131, 2004.
[0004] An article published in 2004 in HAPPI, relating to the
permanency of Level 2 (a.k.a. demi-permanent) and Level 3 (a.k.a.
oxidative or permanent) hair dyes, described an olefin graft
conditioner ethylene/acrylate copolymer and acrylates amino
methacrylate copolymer, at a 2-5% use-level improved color
retention (vs. no treatment) by 15% for Level 2 dyes and by 5% for
Level 3 dyes when incorporated into a two-part dye rather than
applied as a post-dye conditioner. The proposed mechanism for this
function is the formation of an occlusive olefin barrier on the
surface of the hair. Martin, T., and Burns, T., "Novel Graft
Polymers Boost Hair Color Retention", HAPPI, pp. 92-95, October
2004.
[0005] U.S. Pat. Nos. 7,066,966 and 7,147,672 disclose an oxidation
dyeing composition for keratin fibers comprising a cationic poly
(vinyllactam).
[0006] In accordance with certain aspects of the present invention,
hydrophobically modified cationic polymers or hydrophobically
modified polymers plus a quaternizing agent are effective in
protecting dyed hair color from color erosion induced by daily
shampooing. The hydrophobically modified cationic polymers or
hydrophobically modified polymers plus a quaternizing agent have
both hydrophobic moieties and sufficient cationic charge density to
maintain substantivity to hair while providing a hydrophobic
barrier to "lock-in" hair dye from washing out during daily shampoo
washing.
[0007] The present invention provides compositions containing
particular polymers that protect dyed hair color against shampoo
washings. Preferred polymers include one or more polymers selected
from the following groups of polymers: [0008] 1. Hydrophobically
modified quaternary polymers [0009] or [0010] 2. Hydrophobically
modified polymers plus a cationic surfactant [0011] or [0012] 3.
Polymers containing diethylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPMA) or
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylamide (DMAEMA) or diethylaminoethyl
methacrylamide (DEAEMA)
[0013] Hydrophobically modified quaternary polymers that can be
used in the present invention include quaternized polymers
containing an alkyl substitution with a carbon number above three.
The alkyl substitution can be either attached to the quaternary
unit or to any other locations of the polymer. The preferred
hydrophobically modified quaternary polymers in accordance with the
present invention include the quaternary polymers of general
formula (R,R',R'',N--).sup.+X.sup.-, wherein R, R', are identical
or different. They can be aliphatic or carry additional
substituents. R'' is an alkyl chain with a carbon number above 3,
preferably from 8 to 22. X.sup.- represents an anion, for example,
chloride, bromide, etc., and N can be part of a heterocyclic or
aromatic ring.
[0014] Examples of the hydrophobically modified cationic polymers
include, but are not limited to, terpolymer of
vinylpyrrolidone(VP), dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPMA),
and methacryloylaminopropyl lauryldimonium chloride (MAPLDAC) with
a trade name of Styleze W-20.RTM.; alkyl substituted quaternized
cellulose polymers such as those with trade names of Quatrisoft
polymer LM-200 (Polyquatemium 24) and SoftCAT.TM. Polymers such as
quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose polymers with cationic
substitution of trimethyl ammonium and dimethyldodecyl ammonium and
stearyldimonium hydroxylethyl or propyl cellulose (Crodacel QS) and
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl oxyethyl cellulose (Crodacel QM); alkyl
substituted quaternary dimethicone copolymers such as
Polyquaternium-41 or 42.
[0015] Hydrophobically modified polymers that can be used in the
present invention include polymers containing an alkyl moiety with
a carbon number of at least 3. Examples of hydrophobically modified
polymers include, but are not limited to nonionic hydrophobically
modified polymers such as the copolymer of PEG-150, decyl alcohol
and saturated methylene diphenyldiisocyanate with a trade name of
Aculyn 44; nonionic guar gum with alkyl groups such as those with
trade names of Jaguar HP-60, N-Hance.RTM. hydroxypropyl Guar;
PVP/Eicosene copolymer; Nonoxynyl hydroxylcellulose with a trade
name of Amercell Polymer HM-1500; cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose
(Natrosol Plus); hydroxy propyl cellulose; hydroxyl propylmethyl
cellulose.
[0016] Examples of polymers containing dimethylaminopropyl
methacrylamide (DMAPMA) or dimethylaminoethyl methacrylamide
(DMAEMA) include poly(vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl
methacrylamide) with a trade name of Styleze CC-10 and
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate) with a trade
name of Copolymer 937 or 845.
[0017] The amount of polymer used in the compositions described
herein depends upon the particular composition and usage of the
composition. Typically, the amount of polymer in accordance with
certain aspects of the present invention ranges from about 0.1 to
about 10%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 5.0%, and more
preferably from about 1.0 to about 3.0% by weight, based on the
total weight of the composition.
[0018] The cationic surfactants that can be used in the practice of
the present invention include quaternized surfactants. The
preferred quaternized cationic surfactants in accordance with
certain aspects of the present invention are the quaternary
ammonium compounds of general formula
(R,R',R'',R'''N).sup.+X.sup.-, wherein R, R', R'' and R''' are
identical or different, are aliphatic or carry additional
substituents, X.sup.- represents an anion, for example, chloride,
bromide, sulfate, etc., and N can be part of a heterocyclic or
aromatic ring.
[0019] In particularly useful quaternized surfactants, R and R' are
CH.sub.3, and R'' and R''' are aliphatic or aromatic chains, for
example, hydroxy ethyl cetearamidopropyldimmonium chloride.
[0020] A suitable amount of cationic surfactant in accordance with
certain aspects of the present invention ranges from about 0.01 to
about 30%, preferably from about 0.01 to about 25%, and more
preferably from about 0.2 to about 20% by weight, based on the
total weight of the composition.
[0021] The color protection treatment herein can be delivered by a
post-color treatment (after dying of hair), either from a leave-in
product or a rinse-off product or a combination thereof to provide
at least 10% color protection against the untreated control after
10 time washes.
[0022] For optimum performance, the new hair color should be
treated with the leave-in treatment formula and dried before the
first shampoo wash and treated with the leave-in formula again
after each shampoo and conditioner use.
[0023] The post color leave-in treatment formulations preferably
may be in the form of a gel or cream or mousse or spray. The post
color rinse off treatment typically can be in the form of shampoos,
conditioners or other rinse off product forms.
[0024] Test Methods for Evaluating Hair Color Changes for
Anti-Fading Effect
[0025] Polymer Screening Test--Soaking Test of Dyed Hair
1. Hair dye dissolution in water was determined by soaking fixed
amount of dyed hair sample (0.5 g) in water containing 1% polymer
(as solid). The soaking liquor was sampled after fixed hours of
soaking and read for L, a and b values on HunterLab colorimeter
(t=0 values were read before adding hair into a soaking liquor).
Color changes generated by hair dye dissolution in soaking liquor
were determined as dE calculated from L, a, b values of the soaking
liquor before and after soaking.
dE=((L.sub.t-L.sub.o).sup.2+(a.sub.t-a.sub.0).sup.2+(b.sub.t-b.sub.o).su-
p.2).sup.1/2.
Where L.sub.o, a.sub.o, b.sub.o; and L.sub.t, a.sub.t, b.sub.t are
measured Hunter L, a, b color parameters before and after soaking
at certain time period, respectively. A larger value of dE reflects
greater change of color. Fading Index=dE of polymer solution/dE of
water. Maximum Fading index is 1, indicating no protection at all.
Polymers showing reduced dye dissolution or with a Fading Index
less than 0.5 are further tested by multiple shampoo washing
tests.
2. Multiple Shampoo Washing Test of Dyed Hair Tresses--Color
Fastness Test
[0026] Polymers which show effectiveness in reducing hair dye
dissolution in the soaking tests were selected to test in a full
hair cream or gel formulations in multiple shampoo washing test.
These polymers were formulated into hair care formulations as
either a leave in treatment or rinse off formulations.
[0027] Hair Samples
[0028] Bleached hair was purchased from International Hair
Importers. Each hair tress weighs 3.5 g and has a 1.5'' width and a
6.5'' length. It was split into halves for color fastness test, one
half for the treatment test and the other half served as a
non-treated control.
[0029] Hair Dyes
[0030] The bleached hairs were dyed using commercially available
hair coloring products. The hair dye product tested in accordance
with the certain examples were ones from red shade containing
-Hydroxyethyl 4,5-Diamino Pyrazole Sulfate, which is thought to be
the most delicate dye. One is intense dark red and the other is
radiant Ruby. Intense dark red is used in most tested hair samples
unless specified. In addition, a dark brown color of commercial
hair coloring product was also used in some tests.
[0031] 10.times. Washing and Treatment Procedures
[0032] The wax tab of a hair tress was cut into two separate parts.
One half was used as the control test, non-treatment tress. The
other half was used for treatment test. The control half was washed
with 0.75 g 12% SLES solution for 2 min., with one minute
shampooing with rubbing and one minute rinse under running warm tap
water. Then the hair tress was dried with a cold air hair blow
dryer. The wash cycle was repeated for 10 times. Three different
treatment procedures were used, leave-in treatment, rinse off
treatment and the combination of leave-in and rinse off treatment.
For a leave-in treatment test, 0.30 g product was applied to a
damp, one half of dyed hair tress before the first shampoo,
massaged gently through the tress and dried with cold air hair
drier, followed by washing with 12% SLES then treated again with
the leave-in formulation and cold air blow dried. Then the SLES
wash and treatment and blow dry cycle were repeated 10 times. For a
rinse off treatment, hair tress was washed by the treatment shampoo
and/or treatment conditioners, cold air blow dried and repeated 10
cycles against 12% SLES as a control. For the combination of
leave-in and rinse off treatment, the damp hair tress was treated
with 0.30 g product, massaged gently through the tress and dried
with cold air hair drier, followed with wash by the treatment
shampoo and/or treatment conditioners. The cycle was repeated 10
times.
[0033] At the end of 3.times., 5.times., 8.times. and 10.times.
washes, the dried hair tresses were measured for L, a, values using
a HunterLab colorimeter and dE was calculated as color changes
after washes.
[0034] Color Analysis of Hair Tresses Before and after Multiple
Shampoo Washes:
[0035] Hair color changes before and after washes were determined
by dE.
[0036] Color changes were measured by measuring Hunter L, a and b
values on a HunterLab colorimeter. dE was calculated using the
following equations to evaluate color change before and after
washes.
dE=((L.sub.t-L.sub.o).sup.2+(a.sub.t-a.sub.0).sup.2+(b.sub.t-b.sub.o).su-
p.2).sup.1/2.
[0037] Where L.sub.o, a.sub.o, b.sub.o, and L.sub.t, a.sub.t,
b.sub.t are measured Hunter L, a, b color parameters before and
after washing, respectively.
[0038] The larger value of dE reflects greater change of color. It
is reported that color difference with dE greater than 1 are
generally perceptible by eye.
% Color Protection=% dE improvement=(dE treatment-dE
control).times.100/dE control
[0039] A % dE improvement or % Color Protection over 10-15% is
perceivable by eye.
EXAMPLE 1
[0040] Table 1 shows the results of color change of soaking liquor
from dyed hair samples soaked in different polymer aqueous
solutions (1% active), expressed as a Fading Index.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Soaking test Soaking test Polymer Polymer
trade Fading index* Fading index* No. name INCI name 30 min. 90
min. 1 Styleze W-20 Terpolymer of vinylpyrrolidone(VP), 0.11 0.35
dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide (DMAPMA), and
methacryloylaminopropyl lauryldimonium chloride (MAPLDAC) 2 Styleze
CC-10 Poly(vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl 0.33 0.31
methacrylamide)(DMAPMA) 3 Conditioneze Polyquaternium-28, Polyvinyl
pyrrolidone and 0.71 0.84 NT-20 methacryamidopropyl
trimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) 4 Copolymer 937
Poly(vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl 0.34 0.46
methacrylate)(DMAEMA) 5 Gafquat 755N Quaternized copolymers of
vinylpyrrolidone and 0.73 0.94 dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate 6
Aquaflex FX- Isobutylene/ethylmaleimide/hydroxyethylmaleimide 0.63
1 64 FI = Fading Index = dEpolymer/dEwater, maximum = 1 = maximum
fading. *A Fading Index less than 0.5 for a polymer is considered
to be project grant effective and is as supported also by multiple
data in a shampoo wash test.
[0041] The results in Table 1 show that polymer #1 within the scope
of this invention containing both a hydrophobic chain and a
quaternary unit is the most effective in reducing hair dye
dissolution in the critical first 30 min. soaking time. Polymers #
2 & #4 containing dimethylaminopropyl methaerylamide (DMAPMA)
and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate)(DMAEMA) are within the scope
of this invention and are effective as well. By contrast,
comparative examples with polymers #3, 5, 6, are ineffective in
reducing hair dye dissolution.
[0042] Table 1a provides results of a soaking test with hydrophilic
polymers (PVP) which also fail to provide the fade resistance
obtainable with certain aspects of the present invention. The
results indicate the ineffectiveness of these polymers in reducing
hair dye dissolution in water.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 1a Hydrophilic FI @ FI @ polymers 30 min. 90
min. PVP K 90 0.89 0.95 PVP K 120 0.71 0.99 PVP K 15 1.03 PVP K30
1.03 PVP K 60 1.01 PVP/VA 1.03
[0043] As comparative examples, other polymers were tested in both
the soaking test and multiple shampoo washes. The results are given
in Table 1b. Both the soaking and multiple shampoo wash tests
demonstrate the ineffectiveness of these polymers.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 1b FI FI 10.times. Polymers INCI name 30 min.
90 min wash test Cotton bloom Oligosaccharides 1.14 1.57 negative
Aquaflex XL-30 Copolymer of 1.27 1.13 no effect
Isobutylene/dimethylaminopropyl maleimide/ethoxylated
maleimide/maleic acid copolymer Styleze 2000, pH7, Copolymer of
vinyl pyrrolidone 0.82 0.80 negligible anionic polymer
(VP)/Acrylates/Lauryl effect, Methacrylate Chitosan Chitosan
negative PVA/VAM Copolymer of vinyl alcohol and 1.01 1.32 vinyl
amide PVA MW 85K Poly vinyl alcohol 0.94 1.23 PVA MW 31K Poly vinyl
alcohol 1.15 1.41 Aquaflex XL-30 + Ultrathix P 100 is cross linked
negligible Ultrathix P 100 acrylate polymer effect XL-30 + Gantrez
P Copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone ineffective 904 and long chain
a-olefin Hydroxypropyl quar Hydroxypropyl quar gum no effect
(without a quaternizing agent)
EXAMPLES 2-9
[0044] Polymer Nos. 1, 2 and 4 from Example 1, which showed
effectiveness in reducing hair dye dissolution in water, were
tested in a clear gel formulation in a multiple shampoo washing
test following the procedure described in the test method section.
The hair tresses were treated with the anti-fading gel first, cold
air blow dried and then washed with 12% SLES. The treatment and
wash cycle was repeated 10.times.. As a control, the hair tress was
treated with the same formulation without the polymer, 11506-85,
then blow dried and washed with SLES. The test results are shown in
Table 3.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 2 Gel formulation containing test polymers for
leave in treatment in a 10.times. washing test. Test formula
Control 11506-85A-F; 56B, formula 102-111; 10748-67 11506-85
Ingredient wt % wt % Jaquar HP-60, Hydroxy propyl 1.5 1.5 Guar gum
(as a thickner) Test polymer (Nos. 1, 2, or 4) 2.0% (active) 0
Glycerin 1.0 1.0 Liquid Gernmal Plus 0.5 0.5 Water To 100 To
100
TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 3 Hair color fastness test results, %
Protection = % dE = (dE treatment - dEcontrol) .times.
100/dEcontrol Testing 3.times. 5.times. 8.times. 10.times. Example
polymer/ wash wash % wash % wash % # Formula# Structure unit Tress#
% dE dE dE dE 2 Copolymer VP-DMAEMA 58H 19 7 937/11506-85A 3
Styleze CC- VP-DMAPMA 53H 18 7 5 14 10/11506-56B 4 Styleze W-20/
VP-DMAPMA - 35H 27 21 24 38 10748-67 C12 quat 5 Conditioneze VP-
59H 6 9 -5 -6 NT-20/85B MAPTAC(quat)
[0045] The multiple shampoo washing test results in Table 3
demonstrate that polymers within the scope of this invention
contain both a hydrophobic chain and a quaternary unit. Styleze
W-20 (Example 4) provides the best color protection benefit.
Consistent with the soaking test result in Table 1, a quaternary
polymer, Conditioneze NT-20 (Example 5)(comparative), containing no
hydrophobic chain and no DMAPMA or DMAEMA unit is ineffective.
[0046] Another chemical class of polymer, hydroxylethyl cellulose
(HEC) modified with either an alkyl chain (hydrophobicity) and/or
quaternization, was tested for anti-fading effect in the multiple
shampoo washing tests. These polymers were formulated into the same
test formula as specified hi Table 2, except Natrosol Plus (alky
hydroxyl cellulose) in which Jaguar HP-60, Hydroxy propyl Guar gum,
was not added. The multiple shampoo washing test results are given
in Table 4 below.
TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 4 Hair color fastness test results, %
Protection (% dE) = (dB treatment - dEcontrol) .times.
100/dEcontrol 3.times. 5.times. 8.times. 10.times. Example Testing
polymer/ wash wash wash wash # Formula# Structure unit Tress# % dE
% dE % dE % dE 6 Cetyl-Hydroxy Ethyl Hydrophobic 78H 0 13 9 15
Cellulose (HEC), modified Natrosol Plus/11506-106 cellulose 7
Quaternary salt of Quaternized 77H 5 5 19 16 HEC, HEC
Polyquaternium - 10, Ritaquta 400LR/11506405 8 C12-HEC C12-HEC 76H
11 22 25 21 quaternary, quat Polyquaternium -24, QuatrIsoft polymer
LM-200/11506-102 9 Steardimonium C18-HEC 95H 18 17 19 31
Hydroxyethyl quat Cellulose, Crodacel QS/11506-111
[0047] The results in Table 4 demonstrate that the HEC derivatives
containing both hydrophobic and quaternary units (Examples 8 and 9)
provide acceptable levels of hair color fastness, especially in the
important early washing stages.
EXAMPLE 10
[0048] A comparative composition containing an anionic polymer with
a hydrophobic chain was tested. The anionic polymer was Styleze
2000, a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone (VP)/Acrylates/Lauryl
Methacrylate, neutralized and formulated into the same test
formulation and tested using the procedure specified in Examples
2-9. The results of the color fading test of this anionic
hydrophobic polymer are given in Table 5 which shows that its
effect on anti-fading is negligible or minor (<10%). The result
from the soaking test is also listed in Table 5. Test results for
the cationic hydrophobic polymer, Styleze W-20 is also listed
showing the improved results obtained with the present
invention.
TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 5 Hair color fastness test results, %
Protection, % dE = (dE treatment - dEcontrol) .times. 100/dEcontrol
3.times. 5.times. 8.times. 10.times. Hydrophobic polymer/ FI@ FI@
wash wash wash wash Formula# 30 m 90 m Tress# % dE % dE % dE % dE
Styleze 2000 (anionic & C12 0.82 0.80 79H 14 15 7.8 7.2 chain
polymer)/11506-110 Styleze W-20 (W-DMAPMA - 0.11 0.35 35H >50 38
15 37 C12 quat)/10748-67
EXAMPLE 11
[0049] This example shows the anti-fading effect of hydrophobically
modified polymers plus a quaternizing agent. Aculyn 44 is a
hydrophobically modified nonionic polymer and was formulated into a
hair care leave in treatment together with a cationic surfactant,
Hydroxyethyl Cetearamidopropyldimonium Chloride in a raw material
with a trade name of Prolipid 161.RTM.. The leave in treatment
formulation is listed in Table 6. The color fading test results are
listed in Table 7.
TABLE-US-00008 TABLE 6 Formulation of leave in hair treatment,
11337-82B Ingredients Item# (Trade)/Supplier INCI Wt. % Phase A 1
Water Water 84.56 2 Dissolvene NA-2 Disodium EDTA 0.20 Hampshire 3
Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol 1.00 4 Aculyn 44 (@ 1% PEG-150
Decyl Alcohol/ 2.87 active) SMDI Coplymer Rohm & Haas (34.85%
actives) Phase B 5 Prolipid .RTM. 161 Hydroxyethyl 2.87 (0.86%
active) Cetearamidopropyldimonium ISP Chloride (and) Behenyl
Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Alcohol 6 Jeecol-20 Jeen Steareth-20 (HLB
15.3) 0.40 7 Jeecol-2 Jeen steareth-2 (HLB 4.9) 0.60 10 Lanette O
Wax Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol 2.00 Cognis Care Phase C 11 Water Water
5.00 12 Liquid Germall Propylene Glycol (and) .50 Plus ISP
Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
[0050] Color fastness test results in Table 7 demonstrate that
nonionic hydrophobically modified polymer plus cationic surfactant
in Prolipid 161 provided significant benefit for anti-fading of
hair color while either of them alone is ineffective by comparing
test# 11-2 (inventive) to test# 11-1 and 11-3 (comparative).
TABLE-US-00009 TABLE 7 Hair color fading test results, % Protection
= % dE = (dE treatment - dEcontrol) .times. 100/dEcontrol 3.times.
5.times. 8.times. 10.times. Test Testing polymer/ wash wash wash
wash # Formula# INCI name Tress# % dE % dE % dE % dE 11-1 Aculyns
44 in Jaquar PEG-150 67H 5 0 0 2 HP-60 gel/11506-85C Decyl
Alcohol/SMDI Coplymer 11-2 Aculyn 44 in Prolipid 26H 36 41 48 161
cream/11337-82B 11-3 Prolipid 161 in water Hydroxyethyl 7H 0
Cetearamido- propyldimonium Chloride (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and)
Cetearyl Alcohol
[0051] Color fastness test results in Table 8 further prove that
the anti-fading effect in the leave in treatment formula,
11337-82B, is attributable to the synergistic effect of hydrophobic
polymer, Aculyn 44 and the quaternizing agent content in Prolipid
161.
TABLE-US-00010 TABLE 8 Color fading test results after 10.times.
washes, % Protection = % dE = (dE treatment - dEcontrol) .times.
100/dEcontrol Test # 11-4 11-5 11-6 11-7 Tress# 4H, 8H, 7H 5H 3H
26H Formula Original Prolipid + Aculyn 44 + Aculyn 44 + Discription
11337-82B Jeecols Jeecols water 11337-87A 11337-84 11337-86
Ingredients Water 84.56 87.43 92.43 96.43 Disodium 0.20 0.20 0.20
0.20 EDTA Propylene 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.00 Glycol Aculyn 44 2.87 0.00
2.87 2.87 Prolipid 161 2.87 2.87 0.00 0.00 Jeecol-20 0.40 0.40 0.40
0.00 Steareth-20 Jeecol-2 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.00 steareth-2 Cetyl
Stearyl 2.00 2.00 2.00 0.00 Alcohol Water 5.00 5.00 0.00 0.00
Liquid Germall 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Plus Color fastness 20%, 25%, 0%
0% 0% test results, 48% % dE improvement
EXAMPLE 12
[0052] Table 10 shows the color fastness results of a leave in
treatment formula containing hydrophobic polymer, Aculyn 44,
quaternizing agent content from Prolipid 161 and hydrophobic
quaternary polymer, Styleze W-20. The formula ingredients are
listed in Table 9. The daily leave in treatment formula provides
37% and 44% color protection with the two types of dye tested.
TABLE-US-00011 TABLE 9 Formulation of Leave in treatment cream,
11261-20 Ingredients Item# (Trade)/Supplier INCI Wt. % Phase A 1
Water Water 79.62 2 Dissolvene NA-2 Disodium EDTA 0.20 Hampshire 3
Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol 1.00 4 Aculyn 44 (use @ PEG-150
Decyl Alcohol/ 2.87 1% active) SMDI Coplymer Rhom & Haas
(34.85% actives) Phase B 5 Prolipid .RTM. 161 Hydroxyethyl 2.87
(using Cetearamidopropyldimonium 0.86% active)ISP Chloride (and)
Behenyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Alcohol 6 Jeecol-20 Jeen Steareth-20
0.40 7 Jeecol-2 Jeen steareth-2 0.60 8 Ceraphyl SLK Isodecyl
Neopentanoate 2.00 ISP 9 Beauty Butter ISP Shea Butter 0.50 10
Lanette O Wax Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol 2.00 Cognis Care Phase C Water
Water 5.00 12 Styleze W-20 (20.5% Polyquaternium-55 2.44 active -
use @ 0.5%)ISP 13 Liquid Germall Propylene Glycol (and) 0.50 Plus
ISP Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
TABLE-US-00012 TABLE 10 Hair color fading test results of formula
11261-20, % Protection = % dE = (dE treatment - dEcontrol) .times.
100/dEcontrol 3.times. 5.times. 8.times. 10.times. Test wash wash
wash wash # Testing dye Tress# % dE % dE % dE % dE 12-1 Intense
dark red 21H 11 20 32 37 12-2 Radiant Ruby 20H 32 42 39 44
EXAMPLE 13
[0053] To further demonstrate the synergistic effect of polymer
with a hydrophobic unit and a guat, hydroxypropyl guar gum which
contains propyl unit was tested together with Prolipid 161 in color
fastness test. Table 11 listed the test formula and the control
test formula.
TABLE-US-00013 TABLE 11 Gel formula containing testing polymers for
leave in treatment in 10.times. washing test. Test Control Test
formula formula formula 11506-317 11506-117a 11506-48 Ingredient wt
% wt % wt % Jaquar HP-60, Hydroxy propyl 2.0 0 1.5 Guar gum (as a
thickener) Prolipid 161, Hydroxyethyl 3.0 3.0 0
Cetearamidopropyldimonium Chloride (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and)
Cetearyl Alcohol Liquid Gernmal Plus 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water To 100 To
100 To 100
[0054] The color fastness results of the test formula and the
control formula in Table 11 are shown in Table 12. Treatment with
formula 11506-117 containing hydroxy propyl guar and Prolipid 161
which is within the scope of this invention provides 19% color
protection after 10.times. washes (test# 13-2) while the guar gum
alone (Test# 13-1) and Prolipid 161 alone (Test# 13-3) are
ineffective after 10.times. washes.
TABLE-US-00014 TABLE 12 Hair color fading test results of formula
11506-117, % Protection = (dE = (dE treatment - dEcontrol) .times.
100/dEcontrol 3.times. 5.times. 8.times. 10.times. Test wash wash
wash wash # Testing formula Tress# % dE % dE % dE % dE 13-1
11506-48 vs untreated 34H 17 13 1 0 13-2 11506-117 vs 117a 91H 20
21 19 13-3 11337-117 vs 7H 0 untreated
EXAMPLE 14
[0055] The polymer within the scope of this invention contain both
a hydrophobic chain and a quaternary unit, Styleze W-20.RTM. was
formulated into a rinse off formula, a 2-in-1 shampoo formulation
and a conditioner formulation to test its color fastness effect.
The 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner formulations are listed in Table
13 & 14. The rinse off formulations were either tested alone or
together with a leave in gel formulation (Table 15) as specified
bellow.
1. Styleze W-20.RTM. 2-in-1 shampoo wash versus 12% SLES wash as a
control, 10 cycles 2. Styleze W-20.RTM. 2-in-1 shampoo wash versus
the control with the 2-in-1 shampoo wash without Styleze W-20.RTM.
in it, 10 cycles 3. First treatment to the hair with the leave in
treatment formula, 10748-67, blow dried, followed by Styleze
W-20.RTM. 2-in-1 shampoo wash vs the control with no Styleze
W-20.RTM. in the leave in gel treatment, 11506-85 and SLES washes,
10 cycles. 4. First treatment to the hair with the leave in
treatment formula, 10748-67, blow dried, followed by Styleze
W-20.RTM. 2-in-1 shampoo wash and using Styleze W-20 conditioner
and rinse vs the control with treatment containing no Styleze
W-20.RTM. leave in gel treatment, 11506-85 and SLES washes,
followed with application of no Styleze W-20.RTM. conditioner and
rinse, 10 cycles.
TABLE-US-00015 TABLE 13 2-in-1 Shampoo formula, Pearlescent
Bodifying Shampoo 10906-131A, Control, Ingredients wt % 11571-7, wt
% Wafer 55.73 58.23 Styleze W20 (20% active) 2.5 0
Cocoamphodiacetate(Miranol C2M 15.0 15.0 NP) Cocamidopropyl Betaine
(Miratain 3.52 3.52 CB) Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (Standapol 6.0 6.0
A) Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate(Maprosyl 12.0 12.0 30) C12-C15 Alktl
Lactate (Ceraphyl 41) 0.50 0.50 Glycol Stearate(Cerasynt IP) 0.25
0.25 Liquid Germal Plus 0.30 0.30 Sodium Chloride(25% solution)
2.00 2.00 Citric acid(25% solution) 2.20 2.20
TABLE-US-00016 TABLE 14 Conditioner formula 11571-6A 11571-6B
Ingredients wt % wt % Supplier Water 89.90 92.90 Disodium EDTA
(Versene NA2) 0.10 0.10 Prolipid .RTM.161 2.50 0 ISP Cetearyl
Alcohol (Lanette O) 3.00 3.00 Care Chemicals Glyceryl Stearate
(and) PEG-100 1.50 1.50 Uniqema/ICI Stearate (Arlacel 165)
Polyquaternium-55 (Styleze .RTM. 2.50 2.50 ISP W-20), 20% active
Propylene Glycol (and) 0.50 0.50 ISP Diazolidinyl Urea (and)
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (Liquid Germall .RTM. Plus) Citric Acid
(50% aqueous solution) 0.35 0.35
TABLE-US-00017 TABLE 15 Leave in gel formula containing Styleze
W-20 Test formula Control formula 10748-67 11506-85 Ingredient wt %
wt % Jaquar HP-60, Hydroxy propyl 1.5 1.5 Guar gum (as a thickner)
Testing polymer 2.0% (active) 0 Glycerin 1.0 1.0 Liquid Gernmal
Plus 0.5 0.5
[0056] Table 16 shows the color fastness test results of dyed hair
treated with Styleze W-20 rinse off, leave in treatment or
combination of both. Three commercial products were also tested
using the same test procedure for comparison. The results in Table
15 demonstrate that Styleze W-20 in the 2-in-1 shampoo formula
(10906-131A) provides 22% protection at the end of 10 washes
(compare test# 14-1a, 14-1b with 14-1c), which is much better than
the two commercial products (test # 14-6 & 14-7). The
combination treatment from the leave in gel, 10748-67, and the
2-in-1 shampoo provides the highest color protection, 45% to 51% at
the end of 10 washes (test# 14-2a and 14-2b), which is better than
the commercial product 1 (test# 14-5) and significantly more
effective than commercial product 2 & 3 (test # 14-6 &
14-7). Test 14-7 and 14-8 are the tests of W-20 leave in gel,
2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner against commercial color lock
product 2 as the control using red hair color samples and dark
brown dyed hair respectively. Both results show the W-20 leave in
and rinse off treatment are about 40% superior than the commercial
product.
TABLE-US-00018 TABLE 16 color fading test results, % Protection = %
dE = (dE treatment - dEcontrol) .times. 100/dEcontrol 3.times.
5.times. 8.times. 10.times. Test Treatment wash wash wash wash #
Formula# types Tress# % dE % dE % dE % dE 14-1a 10906-131A W-20
2-in-1 56H 29 9.7 33 22 vs SLES Shampoo 14-1b 10906-131A W-20
2-in-1 75H 15 15 31 20 vs SLES Shampoo 14-1c 10906-131A W-20 2-in-1
63H 9 15 30 20 vs 11571-7 Shampoo vs no W 20 shampoo 14-2a 10748-67
+ Leave in gel + 73H 36 40 44 45 10906-131 vs W-20 2-in-1 11506-85
& Shampoo SLES 14-2b 10748-67 + Leave in gel + 81H 44 49 45 51
10906-131a W-20 2-in-1 vs 11506-85 Shampoo & SLES 14-3 11571-6a
vs W-20 57H 11 9 12 7 11571-6b onditioner vs SLES washes no W-20
cond. 14-4 0748-67 + Leave in gel + 74H 0 8 17 24 0906-131a W-20
2-in-1 & 11571-6a Shampoo + W against the 20 conditioner
control 14-5 Commercial Leave in cream + 83H 19 20 35 39 color lock
shampoo + product 1 vs conditioner SLES washes 14-6 Commercial
Shampoo + 89H 0 5 8 11 color lock conditioner product 2 vs SLES
washes 14-7 Commercial Shampoo + 90H 41 24 3 12 color lock
conditioner product 3 vs SLES washes 14-8* 10748-67 + Leave in gel
+ 96H 26 36 40 10906-131a W-20 2-in-1 & 11571-6a Shampoo + W
against 20 conditioner commercial color lock product 2 14-9**
10748-67 + Leave in gel + 100H 14 27 20 38 10906-131a W-20 2-in-1
& 11571-6a Shampoo + W against 20 conditioner commercial color
lock product 2 *Hair tress was dyed with intense dark red color
**Hair tress was dyed with dark brown color
EXAMPLE 15
[0057] This example demonstrates the importance of applying leave
in treatment to the new hair color before first shampoo washes. Two
different tests were conducted. First, newly dyed hair samples were
treated with leave in formula, 10748-67, blow dried with cold air,
followed by 12% SLES wash. The treatment, dry and wash cycle was
repeated 10 time. In another test, newly dyed hair sample was
washed with SLES first then treated with formula 10748-67, dried.
This cycle was repeated by 10.times.. The results in Table 17
indicate that applying a leave in treatment before the first
shampoo wash of new color is important, providing important color
protection during early washes (compare test#15-1 & 2 with
test#15-3).
TABLE-US-00019 TABLE 17 Hair color fading test results of formula
10748-67 vs control formula 11506-85, SLES washes, % Protection = %
dE = (dE treatment - dEcontrol) .times. 100/dEcontrol 3.times.
5.times. 8.times. 10.times. Test Treatment wash wash wash wash #
Formula# types Tress# % dE % dE % dE % dE 15-1 10748-67 Leave in
gel 33H >50 38 15 37 vs before 1.sup.st 11506-85 SLES wash 15-2
10748-67 Leave in gel 35H 26 20 34 38 vs before 1.sup.st 11506-85
SLES wash 15-3 10748-67 SLES wash 72H 0 19 30 39 vs first then
leave 11506-85 in treatment
[0058] Changes may be made by persons skilled in the art in the
compositions and/or in the steps or the sequence of steps of the
method of manufacture described herein without departing from the
spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the following
claims.
* * * * *