U.S. patent application number 13/003817 was filed with the patent office on 2011-06-30 for method for treating human keratinous fibers.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Stephane Arditty, Nathalie Jager Lezer, Florence Lahousse.
Application Number | 20110155162 13/003817 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 40738665 |
Filed Date | 2011-06-30 |
United States Patent
Application |
20110155162 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Arditty; Stephane ; et
al. |
June 30, 2011 |
METHOD FOR TREATING HUMAN KERATINOUS FIBERS
Abstract
A method for cosmetic treatment of human keratinous fibers
including the steps of: a) heating up in contact with or in the
vicinity of a heating device, an outer surface of a piece of solid
product, notably with hardness greater than or equal to 50 g at
20.degree. C. so as to heat said piece in a localized way in order
to only soften substantially said outer surface, and b) applying
the thereby softened product on the fibers to be treated, notably
the eyelashes
Inventors: |
Arditty; Stephane;
(Ballainvilliers, FR) ; Lahousse; Florence;
(Thiais, FR) ; Jager Lezer; Nathalie;
(Verrieres-le-Buisson, FR) |
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
PARIS
FR
|
Family ID: |
40738665 |
Appl. No.: |
13/003817 |
Filed: |
July 30, 2009 |
PCT Filed: |
July 30, 2009 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/IB2009/053330 |
371 Date: |
March 10, 2011 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
61096398 |
Sep 12, 2008 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
132/200 ;
132/218 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 2800/87 20130101;
A45D 2200/155 20130101; A46B 15/003 20130101; A45D 40/262 20130101;
A46B 2200/1053 20130101; A46B 15/0002 20130101; A61Q 1/10 20130101;
A45D 2200/157 20130101; A45D 40/08 20130101; A61K 8/0229 20130101;
A46B 11/0068 20130101; A46B 11/08 20130101; A61K 8/02 20130101;
A61K 2800/24 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
132/200 ;
132/218 |
International
Class: |
A45D 40/00 20060101
A45D040/00; A45D 40/26 20060101 A45D040/26 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Aug 1, 2008 |
FR |
08 55332 |
Claims
1-17. (canceled)
18. A method for cosmetic treatment of human keratinous fibers,
comprising: a) heating up with contact to or in the vicinity of a
heating device, an outer surface of a solid piece of product so as
to heat said piece in a localized way with view to only
substantially soften said outer surface, and b) applying the
thereby softened product on the fibers to be treated.
19. The method according to claim 18, the temperature to which the
outer surface is brought being greater than or equal to 40.degree.
C.
20. The method according to claim 18, the piece of product having
the shape of a stick.
21. The method according to claim 20, the heated-up outer surface
being defined by the distal end of the piece of product.
22. The method according to claim 20, the heated-up outer surface
being defined by at least one portion of the side surface of the
piece of product.
23. The method according to claim 18, the piece of product having a
core remaining at a temperature less than or equal to 30.degree. C.
during the application, for a room temperature of 20.degree. C.
24. The method according to claim 18, the softened product being
brought into contact with the keratinous fibers while the softened
product is borne by the piece of product.
25. The method according to claim 18, the softened product being
brought into contact with the fibers after transfer of the softened
product on a support used for the application.
26. The method according to claim 18, the heating device heating at
least one surface of a material other than the product used for the
application.
27. The method according to claim 18, the product comprising a
volatile solvent.
28. The method according to claim 27, the keratinous fibers being
engaged in between protruding elements for combing the fibers
during application of the product.
29. A device for conditioning and applying a product intended for
application on human keratinous fibers as a solid piece, the piece
of product having a hardness greater than 45 g at 20.degree. C.,
comprising: the piece of product, a support of said solid piece of
product, the latter having an outer surface; means for assisting
with application/finishing for, simultaneously with or after
applying the product on the keratinous fibers, smoothing, combing
and/or separating the latter, a heating device which may be brought
into contact with or in the vicinity of said outer surface for
heating said piece in a localized way, in order to only
substantially soften said outer surface.
30. The device according to claim 29, the means for assisting with
application/finishing including a row of protruding elements for
combing the fibers.
31. The device according to claim 29, the means for assisting with
application/finishing being positioned or capable of being
positioned in the vicinity of the outer surface.
32. The device according to claim 29, the means for assisting with
application/finishing being heated by the heating device.
33. The device according to claim 29, the heating device being
firmly attached to the piece of product during the use of the
device for applying the product on the fibers.
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a method for coating
keratinous fibers with a make-up or care composition, notably
mascara.
[0002] By mascara, is designated a composition intended to be
applied on eyelashes. This may be a make-up composition for
eyelashes, a make-up base for eyelashes (also called base coat), a
composition to be applied on a mascara, a so-called top-coat, or
else further a composition for cosmetic treatment of eyelashes.
Mascara is more particularly intended for eyelashes of human
beings, but also for false eyelashes.
[0003] The terms of product and composition are synonyms.
[0004] Generally, compositions for making up eyelashes or mascaras
include at least one wax or a mixture of waxes dispersed in an
aqueous liquid phase or an organic solvent. They generally have a
pasty texture and are conditioned in a container comprising a
reservoir provided with a wiper and an applicator, notably as a
brush or a comb, and they are applied by picking up product in the
reservoir with the applicator, passing the applicator through the
wiper in order to remove the excess product, and then having the
applicator impregnated with the composition come into contact with
the eyelashes.
[0005] For example, mascaras in a solid form so-called cake
mascaras are known from U.S. Pat. No. 2,007,245 or FR 2 833 163,
which are compositions including a strong proportion of waxes,
pigments and surfactants, disintegrable in water, i.e. they
require, prior to their application on the eyelashes, being put
into contact with an aqueous phase so as to partly solubilize the
mascara. The application is accomplished via a brush impregnated
with water which is put into contact with the mascara and then the
picked-up mixture is applied on the eyelashes with the brush.
[0006] U.S. Pat. No. 5,856,653 describes a heating device for
melting a mascara residue which has dried and has become
unusable.
[0007] U.S. Pat. No. 5,775,344 describes a conditioning and
application device for a pasty mascara provided with a heating
device.
[0008] US 2008/0035165 A1 discloses a heating applicator using
solid mascara.
[0009] US 2007/0286831 discloses a device in which solid mascara is
deposited on a heating applicator.
[0010] US 2005/0150509 A1, US 2007/0286665 A1, U.S. Pat. No.
7,083,347 B2 describe heating applicators.
[0011] WO 2007/114551 discloses a heating device comprising a
container filled with a liquid or creamy mascara composition likely
to harden when drying.
[0012] FR 2 914 161 discloses a device comprising a stick of solid
mascara. The device comprises an application head provided with a
heating device to melt the stick and enable the melted material to
flow through apertures of the application head.
[0013] There exists a need for improving the performances of a
product in the form of a solid mass, both on the sensorial level
and/or on the level of the make-up result, while retaining for the
product mechanical properties compatible with the stick packaging
or in another solid form and with the application by friction on
the surface to be treated.
[0014] According to one of its aspects, the invention relates to a
method for cosmetic treatment of human keratinous fibers,
comprising: [0015] a) heating with contact to or in the vicinity of
a heating device, an outer surface of a piece of solid product, so
as to heat said piece in a localized way in order to only
substantially soften said outer surface, and [0016] b) applying the
thereby softened product on the fibers to be treated, for example
eyelashes.
[0017] In exemplary embodiments, the outer surface that is softened
by heat may be an apparent surface during the heating step.
[0018] There may be no movement of the softened product relative to
the part remaining solid after heating until application.
[0019] The softening may either range or not up to local melting of
the product.
[0020] The whole product is not melted, at least upon first
use.
[0021] The outer surface, when the product is in the form of a
stick, may be defined by the end of the latter; alternatively, the
outer surface is defined by the side surface of the stick. The
outer softened surface may be brought into contact with the region
to be treated, then forming an application surface.
[0022] The invention, by means of localized heating on the outer
surface, may allow application of a product in the form of a stick
for example, while obtaining better results than those obtained
without heating up the outer surface.
[0023] The rise in temperature of the product on the outer surface
may make certain constituents of the product more easily
compatible, for example leading to better hold and/or
brightness.
[0024] The product may be a known product, the invention making it
possible for example to obtain better flowability upon application,
a greater deposit, a more intense color and/or more brightness.
[0025] The invention also provides new possibilities of formulation
and/or packaging.
[0026] The invention may notably allow the use of a harder product,
therefore more easier to package as a stick for example, without
fearing insufficient transfer of the product upon application.
[0027] The piece of product may have a hardness greater than or
equal to 45 g, preferably greater than or equal to 50 g,
preferentially greater than or equal to 60 g, preferentially
greater than or equal to 70 g, still preferentially greater than or
equal to 75 g at 20.degree. C.
[0028] The product may contain at least a cosmetic active
substance, at least one organic or aqueous solvent, at least one
coloring agent, notably a pigment generating color by an absorption
and/or interferential phenomenon. The product may possibly include
a thermochrome coloring agent, allowing the user to view the
heating-up of the outer surface.
[0029] The heating device used for softening the outer surface of
the product is an artificial heat source, i.e. a heat source other
than human or animal heat, the heat of the sun or the heat which
may result from friction of the application surface on the
keratinous fibers upon application. The heat source may be other
than the heat produced by combustion of a fuel in ambient air, for
example the flame of a lighter or of a candle.
[0030] Providing heat to the outer surface for heating up the
latter for example causes a local rise of at least 5.degree. C. of
its temperature, better of at least 10.degree. C., or even
20.degree. C. or 30.degree. C.
[0031] The piece of product may retain a core remaining at a
temperature less than or equal to 30.degree. C., during the
application, for a room temperature of 20.degree. C., at least when
the piece of product includes the initial amount of product.
[0032] The product may be heated up by exposing it to infrared
radiation, radiowave radiation, be heated up by blowing hot air, be
heated up by being exposed to ultrasonic vibrations or be heated up
by heat transfer upon contact with or in proximity to a hot
surface. The latter may be axially and/or radially pressed against
the application surface, for example the end of the stick when the
piece of product is in the form of a stick. The heating device may
heat up the product in a controlled way, by means of temperature
control.
[0033] The hot surface may be flexible, if necessary.
[0034] The piece of product is solid at room temperature
(20.degree. C.), i.e. it retains the shape which was given to it
when it was made and it does not flow under the effect of
gravity.
[0035] The temperature Tf to which the outer surface of the product
is heated, may be greater than or equal to 40.degree. C., better
50.degree. C., still better 60.degree. C., still better greater
than or equal to 70.degree. C. and still better greater than or
equal to 80.degree. C.
[0036] The distal end of the piece of product may be heated to the
temperature Tf. The outer surface may also be defined by a portion
of the side surface of the piece of product.
[0037] The supply of energy for softening the outer surface of the
product may occur for at least 60 s, better for less than 30 s, or
even 10 s.
[0038] The application of the softened product may take place
without the softened product flowing through apertures of the
heating device.
[0039] The method may during the application of the product include
the step of engaging the eyelashes between protruding members, for
example teeth, for combing the eyelashes.
[0040] The protruding members may remain firmly attached to the
piece of product during the application. The protruding members may
be positioned so that the eyelashes contact both the outer softened
surface and the protruding members.
[0041] The softened product may be brought into contact with the
fibers while the softened product is borne by the piece of product.
The softened product may be in contact only with the remaining
piece of product, during the application of the softened
product.
[0042] The softened product may also be brought into contact with
the fibers after transferring the softened product onto a support
used for the application. Such a support may be completely detached
from the remaining solid piece of product during the application.
The support may be used without any wiping between loading with
softened product and application.
[0043] The heating device may further heat at least one surface of
a material other than the product, being used for the application,
and this surface being used for the application may include a row
of protruding members.
[0044] The piece of product is originally packaged and offered to
the user in a solid state.
[0045] The piece of product is in a solid state at the first use of
the device, having a predetermined shape, for example a stick
shape.
[0046] The invention further relates, according to another of its
aspects, to a device for conditioning and applying a product
intended to be applied on human keratinous fibers, this product
being in the form of a solid piece, notably a stick, the product
advantageously having a hardness greater than or equal to 45 g at
20.degree. C., better 50 g at 20.degree. C., the device including:
[0047] a support of said solid piece of product, the latter having
an outer surface; [0048] means for assisting with
application/finishing, notably in the form of teeth, hair, or
reliefs for simultaneously or after the application of the product
on the keratinous fibers, smoothing, combing and/or separating the
latter, [0049] a heating device which may brought into contact with
or to the vicinity of said outer surface in order to heat said
piece in a localized way, in order to only substantially soften
said outer surface.
[0050] The means for assisting with application/finishing may
include one or more rows of protruding members for combing the
fibers.
[0051] The means assisting with application/finishing, notably the
row of protruding members, may be heated by the heating device, for
example to a temperature greater than or equal to 30.degree. C., or
even 40.degree. C., or even 50.degree. C.
[0052] The means of assisting with application/finishing may be
positioned or is capable of being positioned in the vicinity of the
outer surface, notably around the whole or part of the latter.
[0053] The heating device may be integral with the piece of product
during the use of the device in order to apply the product on the
fibers.
[0054] The product may be packaged in a packaging device which may
be sealably closed.
[0055] The piece of product may be initially molded into the
desired shape, for example as a stick, without any frame, or on a
frame and/or a gripping portion, being for example supported by a
rod.
[0056] When a hot surface is used for heating up the product, the
hot surface may be capable of being crossed by the piece of
product, notably the stick, for example having an annular
shape.
[0057] The hot surface may further come into contact with or face
the application surface of the piece of product, notably the end
face of the stick of product or at least a portion of its side
surface.
[0058] The hot surface may be flexible and deformed by the piece of
product when they are put into contact with each other.
[0059] The product may be heated up while the piece of product,
notably the stick, is entirely contained in a packaging device.
[0060] The product may also be heated up while the piece of
product, notably the stick, is at least partly exposed to ambient
air.
[0061] The stick preferably has a smallest dimension in
cross-section that is greater than 4 mm, better greater than or
equal to 5 mm, for example lying in the range 4 to 14 mm or more.
The cross-section may exceed 12 mm.sup.2. The stick may have a
diameter greater than 4 mm or more. The stick may have a kidney
shape in cross-section. The stick may have a thickness that is
greater than or equal to 4 mm. The stick may be loaded in the
heating device from a same end as the end from which the softened
product is delivered.
[0062] The product may be locally heated up to a temperature
greater than or equal to 40.degree. C., or even greater than
45.degree. C. or further greater than 50.degree. C. The temperature
of the application surface, notably of the end of the stick, should
not cause any risk of burns at the moment when it is applied. This
is why a waiting period between the moment when the end is heated
and the application of the keratinous materials may possibly be
required.
[0063] The temperature T.sub.f to which the product is initially
heated up locally at the surface of application may be comprised
between 40.degree. C. and 95.degree. C., better from 45.degree. C.
to 85.degree. C., still better from 45.degree. C. to 75.degree.
C.
[0064] The temperature difference between the heated-up application
surface, notably the end of the stick or its side surface, and the
non-heated portion, for example the core of the stick, may be
greater than or equal to 15.degree. C., or even greater than or
equal to 20.degree. C., at least at the beginning of the
application, or even greater than 30.degree. C. The end of the
piece of product may be put into contact with a hot source, so that
the temperature of this end at the surface over at least 0.5 mm for
example, rises to T.sub.f or more. The temperature T.sub.f at which
the outer surface of the product is heated, may be greater than or
equal to 40.degree. C., in particular greater than or equal to
45.degree. C. The temperature T.sub.f may for example be measured
at the surface by means of an infrared pyrometer.
[0065] During the application of the product, the keratinous fibers
may be held against the soften product by a counter-surface, which
may be at room temperature or be heated.
[0066] Heating of the counter-surface of the piece of product may
be obtained by means of this counter-surface, if necessary. The
counter-surface may for example be heated by an electric
resistor.
[0067] The heating device may include a means for holding the
counter-surface in a predefined position relatively to the piece of
product.
[0068] During the application of the product, movement of the
keratinous fibers relatively to the softened product may be
obtained by manually displacing the product and/or by means of a
motorized mechanism for driving the piece of product, for example
by having it rotate on itself.
[0069] The movement of rotation may be carried out towards the tip
of the eyelashes. If necessary, the movement of the product first
allows a certain portion of the surface of the product to be
exposed to a heat source and the thereby heated-up portion may then
be moved away from the heat source in order to bring it into
contact with the fibers, on which the product may then be
deposited.
[0070] The product according to the invention may be a cosmetic
composition with reversible solid/liquid state transition. The
solid/liquid transition state may be due to melting of a
crystalline fraction, for example one or more waxes.
[0071] As an illustration for suitable waxes for the invention,
hydrocarbon waxes may be cited such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and
China insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax,
ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac
wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes,
paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by
Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as their
esters.
[0072] By heating the product, the mechanical cohesion of the piece
of the product may be reinforced by using a greater proportion of
waxes, and/or using more structuring waxes, without the presence of
waxes being detrimental to the application.
[0073] The piece of product, notably the stick, may during
application of the product on the keratinous fibers be firmly
attached to a sheath including a mechanism allowing gradual
displacement of the piece of product, notably a mechanism including
two rotary parts relatively to each other. The displacement of the
product may be unidirectional or bidirectional, depending on how
the sheath is made.
[0074] The object of the invention is further, according to one of
its aspects, a conditioning and application device of a solid piece
of product intended for application on keratinous fibers, notably a
stick product, comprising: [0075] a support of said solid piece of
product, which may include protruding elements for combing the
keratinous fibers, [0076] a heating device firmly attached or which
may be firmly attached to the conditioning and application device,
in contact with, or which may be brought into contact with or in
the vicinity of an outer surface of the piece of product, so as to
heat said piece in localized way in order to only substantially
soften said outer surface, for example over a depth which may
attain 0.5 mm to 5 mm, better 0.5 mm to 2 mm.
[0077] The object of the invention according to another of its
aspects is further a conditioning and application device of a
product intended for application on keratinous fibers and in the
form of a solid piece of product, comprising: [0078] a support
bearing the piece of product, notably a stick of product, so as to
allow application of the product by engaging the piece of product,
notably the stick, with keratinous fibers, [0079] a device for
heating an application surface of the piece of product, notably the
end of the stick or of its side surface, firmly attached to the
support or to its outer surface at least during heating of the
application surface, allowing the application surface to be heated
to a temperature above that of a portion of the piece of product
remaining solid during the application, the heating device being
located outside the piece of product.
[0080] In other words, notably in the case of a heat transfer by
conduction, convection or by infrared radiation, heat is not
transmitted to the application surface from the core of the piece
of product, but from the outside.
[0081] The heating device may be housed in a closure cap of the
support, so that the application surface, notably the end of the
stick, may be heated, with the cap in place on the support.
[0082] Alternatively, the heating device is housed in a casing on
which the support may be engaged, so that heating may occur when
the support is engaged into the casing. The casing may include an
aperture into which the piece of product may be engaged, preferably
without the whole of the support being positioned inside the
casing. Still alternatively, the heating device may be firmly
attached to the support.
[0083] The device according to the invention may include a control
means allowing the user to control the operation of the heating
device. This control means may include a switch present on the
support or on a closure cap of the support.
[0084] Generally, the device may include an electric resistor for
heating a surface which may come into contact with the application
surface or in proximity to the latter.
[0085] The device may include an infrared emitter laid out in order
to subject the application surface, notably the end of the stick,
to infrared light in order to heat up the latter.
[0086] The heating device may further include a means for emitting
radiowave radiation, for example microwaves, with which the
temperature of the application surface may be raised, notably that
of the end of the stick.
[0087] The heating device may include a fan for blowing hot air on
the application surface, notably the end of the stick.
[0088] The heating device may include a source of ultrasound for
heating the end of the stick.
[0089] The heating device may include at least two components
capable of producing an exothermic reaction when they are mixed.
The thereby produced heat may be transferred to the outer surface
being used for the application, notably to the end of the
stick.
[0090] The product may be applied under dry conditions, i.e. the
product is able to form a preferably adherent and covering deposit,
on the keratinous fibers without requiring prior contact with an
aqueous phase, as opposed to the caked mascaras which are
disintegrable in water and should be partly solubilized beforehand
in order to be applied on the fibers and form an adherent and
covering deposit.
[0091] The piece of product may be obtained by pouring it in the
liquid state into a mold and removing it in the solid state from
the mold or by extrusion.
[0092] Measurement of Hardness
[0093] The surface of the stick is cut with a scalpel so as to be
completely planar. The texture analyzer TA/XT2 (from Stable Micro
Systems Ltd), linked to the Texture Expert Exceed V2.12 software
package [from Stable Micro Systems Ltd] measures the compressive
force. Two measurements at different locations are conducted on
each of the three samples, and the average of the measurements is
then retained.
[0094] The characteristics of the measurement are the
following:
[0095] mobile: stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 4 mm
[0096] preliminary speed: 1 mm.s.sup.-1
[0097] detection threshold: 0.005 N
[0098] measuring speed: 0.1 mm.s.sup.-1
[0099] penetration depth: 2 mm
[0100] relaxation: 1 second
[0101] withdrawal of the mobile at a speed of 1 mm.s.sup.-1
The hardness expressed in g corresponds to the force just before
withdrawing the mobile. This hardness expressed in g is converted
into Newtons, by multiplying by 10.sup.-3.times.9.8N.kg.sup.-1, and
then normalized by the surface of the cylindrical mobile
(3.14.times.R.sup.2) wherein R is the radius of the cylindrical
mobile, so as to be expressed in N.m.sup.-2.
[0102] For a measurement at room temperature, the apparatus is in
an air-conditioned room at the room temperature of 20.degree. C.
For a hot measurement, the surface of the product is heated to the
same temperature as for applying the method according to the
invention and the mobile is heated to 30.degree. C.
[0103] The composition may comprise a continuous oily phase or a
continuous aqueous phase.
[0104] The composition used in the method according to the
invention advantageously comprises a liquid fatty phase and at
least one structuring agent of said liquid fatty phase, via which
the hardness of the composition is adjusted.
[0105] Liquid Fatty Phase
[0106] By liquid fatty phase, in the sense of the invention, is
meant a liquid fatty phase at room temperature (25.degree. C.) and
under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), consisting of one or more
liquid non-aqueous fats at room temperature also called oils,
compatible with each other.
[0107] The oil may be selected from volatile oil and/or
non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.
[0108] The oil(s) may be present in the composition according to
the invention in a content ranging from 5 to 85% by weight based on
the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 70% and
still more preferably from 15 to 60% by weight.
[0109] By volatile oil , is meant in the sense of the invention, an
oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or the
keratinous fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and
under atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent(s) and the
volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile
cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, with non-zero vapor
pressure, at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure, in
particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10.sup.-3 to 300 mm
Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm
Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to
10 mm Hg).
[0110] By non-volatile oil, is meant an oil remaining on the skin
or on the keratinous fiber at room temperature and under
atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and notably having
a vapor pressure of less than 10.sup.-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0111] These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils,
fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0112] By hydrocarbon oil, is meant an oil mainly containing
hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur,
phosphorus atoms. Volatile hydrocarbon oils may be selected from
hydrocarbon oils having 8-16 carbon atoms, and notably from
branched C.sub.8-C.sub.16 alkanes such as C.sub.8-C.sub.16
isoalkanes originating from petroleum (also called isoparaffins)
such as isododecane (further called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane),
isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the
trade names of Isopars or Permethyls, branched C.sub.8-C.sub.16
esters, iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other
volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, notably
those sold under the name of Shell Solt by SHELL, may also be
used.
[0113] The volatile solvent contained in the product may comprise,
preferably mainly, a solvent of the linear volatile alcane(s) type.
By "mainly" is to be understood that the solvent comprises at least
80% in weight, better at least 90% in weight, still better at least
95%, even better 98% in weight of linear volatile alcane(s) with
respect to the total weight of hydrocarbons materials in the
solvent.
[0114] In one exemplary embodiment, a volatile linear alkane
suitable for the invention or a solvent of the linear volatile
alkane(s) type may have a volatility such that the amount of
solvent evaporated in 30 minutes at atmospheric pressure is less
than 24 mg/cm.sup.2, and more particularly is included in the range
from 2.4 to 18 mg/cm.sup.2, more particularly from 3 to 12
mg/cm.sup.2, and more particularly from 3.3 to 6 mg/cm.sup.2.
[0115] A volatility of less than 0.8 mg/cm.sup.2/min at 25.degree.
C. makes it possible, advantageously, to endow a composition of the
invention with enhanced staying power.
[0116] The volatility of a volatile linear alkane in accordance
with the invention or of a solvent of the linear volatile alkane(s)
type may be evaluated especially by means of the protocol described
in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol
described below.
[0117] A crystallizing basin (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance
which is located within a chamber of approximately 0.3 m.sup.3
whose temperature (25.degree. C.) and hygrometry (50% relative
humidity) are regulated is charged with 15 g of volatile linear
alkane or of a solvent of the linear volatile alkane(s) type.
[0118] The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without being
stirred, with ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, article 8550 N,
rotating at 2700 revolutions/minute) placed vertically above the
crystallizing basin containing the volatile linear alkane, the
blades being directed towards the crystallizing basin, at a
distance of 20 cm relative to the base of the crystallizing
basin.
[0119] Measurements are made at regular intervals of time of the
mass of volatile linear alkane or volatile solvent of the linear
alkane(s) type remaining in the crystallizing basin.
[0120] The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile linear
alkane and/or volatile solvent of the linear alkane(s) type
evaporated per unit surface area (cm.sup.2) and per unit time
(minute).
[0121] In exemplary embodiments, a volatile linear alkane and/or a
volatile solvent of the linear alkane(s) type in accordance with
the invention may have a flash point lying in the range 70 to
120.degree. C., for example 80 to 100.degree. C., for example about
89.degree. C.
[0122] More particularly a volatile solvent of the linear alkane(s)
type may be selected from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 9
to 15 carbon atoms, and in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms,
and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
[0123] A volatile linear alkane may be of plant origin.
[0124] An alkane of this kind may be obtained, directly or in two
or more steps, from a plant raw material such as an oil, a butter,
a wax, etc.
[0125] Examples of alkanes suitable for the invention include the
alkanes described in the Cognis patent application WO
2007/068371.
[0126] These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which in
turn are obtained from copra oil or palm oil.
[0127] More particularly a composition of the invention may
comprise a volatile solvent of the linear alkane(s) type comprising
at least one linear alkane selected from n-nonane (C9), n-dodecane
(C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13),
n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof.
[0128] More particularly a volatile linear alkane suitable for the
invention may be employed in the form of an n-undecane/n-tridecane
mixture.
[0129] Preferably in a mixture of this kind the
n-undecane:n-tridecane weight ratio may be 50:50 to 90:10,
preferably from 60:40 to 80:20, preferably from 65:35 to 75:25.
[0130] More particularly a composition according to the invention
may comprise a volatile n-undecane:n-tridecane mixture in a weight
ratio of 76:24 such as prepared in Example 1 of WO 2008/155059.
[0131] In exemplary embodiments, a composition in accordance with
the present invention may comprise a volatile solvent of the linear
alkane(s) type comprising a mixture of linear volatile alkanes
comprising n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13), in particular
available from the company Cognis.
[0132] In exemplary embodiments, the product in accordance with the
present invention comprises at least one volatile solvent,
preferably selected among volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16
carbon atoms, still preferably among C.sub.8-C.sub.16 branched
alkanes, linear alkanes comprising 9 to 15 carbons, such as
described above, and mixtures thereof.
[0133] As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile
silicones, such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone
oils, notably those having a viscosity 8 centistokes (8 10.sup.-6
m.sup.2/s), and notably having 2-7 silicon atoms, these silicones
possibly including alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1-10 carbon atoms.
As a volatile silicon oil which may be used in the invention,
mention may notably be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane,
heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane,
hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl
tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
[0134] It is also possible to mention the volatile linear
alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (I):
##STR00001##
[0135] wherein R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4
carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be
substituted with a fluorine or chlorine atom.
[0136] Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made
of:
[0137] 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,
[0138] 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and
[0139] 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,
[0140] corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is a
butyl, propyl or ethyl group, respectively.
[0141] Fluorinated volatile solvents may also be used such as
nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane.
[0142] According to a particular embodiment, the composition
comprises a volatile oil or a mixture of volatile oils, or a
volatile liquid fatty phase, having in the composition an
evaporation profile such that the mass of evaporated volatile
oil(s) after thirty minutes ranges from 1.7 to 370 mg/cm.sup.2,
notably from 2 to 70 mg/cm.sup.2, and in particular from 2 to 30
mg/cm.sup.2.
[0143] The evaporation profile is measured according to the
following procedure:
[0144] 15 g of oil or of the mixture of oils to be tested are
introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on scales
located in a temperature-controlled (25.degree. C.) enclosure of
about 0.3 m.sup.3 and with control of hygrometry (relative humidity
50%). The liquid is left to freely evaporate, without stirring, by
providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N,
rotating at 2,700 rpm) positioned vertically above the crystallizer
containing the solvent, the blades being directed towards the
crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the
crystallizer. The mass of oil(s) remaining in the crystallizer is
measured at regular intervals and in particular every thirty
minutes. The evaporation rates are expressed in milligrams of
evaporated oil per unit surface (cm) and per unit time
(minute).
[0145] Still preferably, the composition comprises at least one
volatile oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8-16
carbon atoms, the volatile silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon
atoms and mixtures thereof.
[0146] The composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile
oil and notably selected from hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or
fluorinated non-volatile oils.
[0147] As a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may notably be
made of: [0148] hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as fatty acid
and glycerol triesters, the fatty acids of which may have various
chain lengths from C.sub.4 to C.sub.24, the latter may be linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably wheat
germ, sunflower, grape pip, sesame, maize, apricot, caster, shea,
avocado, olive, soya, oils, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton,
hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, Hokkaido squash,
sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, black currant, evening primrose, millet,
barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candleberry tree, passion fruit,
rosehip oil; or further triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such
as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names
of Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, [0149] synthetic
ethers having 10-40 carbon atoms; [0150] linear or branched
hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as Vaseline.RTM.,
polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam.RTM.,
squalane, and mixtures thereof; [0151] synthetic esters such as the
oils of formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 wherein R.sub.1 represents the
remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid including 1-40 carbon
atoms and R.sub.2 represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain
containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R.sub.1+R.sub.2
is .gtoreq.10, such as for example Purcellin oil (ketostearyl
octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate,
C.sub.12-C.sub.15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl
adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate,
isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of
alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate;
hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl
malate; and pentaerythritol esters; [0152] fatty alcohols liquid at
room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain
having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol,
isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol,
2-undecylpentadecanol; [0153] higher fatty acids such as oleic
acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; [0154] carbonates, [0155]
acetals, [0156] citrates, [0157] and mixtures thereof.
[0158] The non-volatile silicone oils which may be used in the
composition according to the invention may be non-volatile
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), the polydimethylsiloxanes including
alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and/or at the ends of a silicon
chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated
silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl
trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl
methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl
trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0159] Fluorinated oils which may be used in the invention are
notably fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated
silicones as described in document EP-A-847752.
[0160] According to an embodiment, the fatty phase may comprise an
ester oil, this ester oil may be selected from esters of
monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols.
[0161] Advantageously, said ester fits the following formula
(I):
R.sub.1--CO--O--R.sub.2 (I)
[0162] wherein R.sub.1 represents a linear or branched alkyl
radical with 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably with 7 to 19 carbon
atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds,
and optionally substituted.
[0163] R.sub.2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical with 1
to 40 carbon atoms, preferably with 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better
with 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more
ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.
[0164] By optionally substituted, is meant that R.sub.1 and/or
R.sub.2 may bear one or more substituents, for example selected
from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N
and S, such as amino, amine, alkoxy, hydroxyl groups.
[0165] Preferably the total number of carbon atoms of
R.sub.1+R.sub.2 is .gtoreq.9.
[0166] R.sub.1 may represent the remainder of a fatty acid,
preferably a higher, linear or preferably branched remainder,
comprising 1 to 40 and better 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R.sub.2 may
represent a linear or preferably branched hydrocarbon chain
containing 1 to 40, preferably 3 to 30 and better 3 to 20 carbon
atoms. Again preferably the number of carbon atoms of
R.sub.1+R.sub.2 is .gtoreq.9.
[0167] Examples of R.sub.1 groups are those derived from fatty
acids selected from the group formed by acetic, propionic, butyric,
caproic, caprylic, pelargonic, capric, undecanoic, lauric,
myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, arachidic, behenic, oleic,
linolenic, linoleic, eleostearic, arachidonic, erucic acids, and
mixtures thereof.
[0168] Examples of esters are, for example, purcellin oil
(ketostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl
myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl
2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, and heptanoates,
octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols,
for example of fatty alcohols.
[0169] Advantageously, the esters are selected from compounds of
formula (I) above, wherein R.sub.1 represents a non-substituted
branched or linear alkyl group, optionally comprising one or more
ethylenic double bonds, from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from
7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R.sub.2 represents a non-substituted
linear or branched alkyl group optionally comprising one or more
ethylenic double bonds, from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from
3 to 30 carbon atoms, and better from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0170] Preferably R.sub.1 is a non-substituted branched alkyl group
with 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms and
R.sub.2 is a non-substituted branched alkyl group with 5 to 15
carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 11 carbon atoms. Preferably in
formula (I), R.sub.1--CO-- and R.sub.2 have the same number of
carbon atoms and derive from the same radical, preferably a
non-substituted branched alkyl group, for example isononyl group,
i.e. advantageously, the ester oil molecule is symmetrical.
The ester oil will be selected preferably from the following
compounds: [0171] isononyl isononanoate, [0172] ketostearyl
octanoate, [0173] isopropyl myristate, [0174] ethyl-2-hexyl
palmitate, [0175] octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, [0176] octyl 2-dodecyl
erucate, [0177] isostearyl isostearate, [0178] and mixtures
thereof.
[0179] When the composition comprises a continuous oily phase, the
liquid fatty phase may account for 5 to 85% by weight based on the
total weight of the composition, preferably 10 to 70% and still
more preferably 15 to 60% by weight.
When the composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase, the
liquid fatty phase may account for 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on
the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1 to 10% by
weight.
[0180] Wax(es)
[0181] The composition according to the invention may comprise at
least one wax.
[0182] The relevant wax within the scope of the present invention
is generally a lipophilic, solid, deformable or non-deformable
compound at room temperature (25.degree. C.), with a reversible
solid/liquid state transition, with a melting point above or equal
to 30.degree. C. which may range up to 200.degree. C. and notably
up to 120.degree. C.
[0183] By bringing the wax to the liquid state (by melting), it is
possible to make it miscible to oils and to form a microscopically
homogenous mixture, but upon bringing the temperature of the
mixture back to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax is
obtained in the oils of the mixture.
[0184] In particular, the suitable waxes for the invention may have
a melting point greater than or equal to 45.degree. C., and in
particular greater than or equal to 55.degree. C.
[0185] In the sense of the invention, the melting temperature
corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak
observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO
11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured by
means of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the
calorimeter sold under the name of MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.
[0186] The measuring procedure is the following:
[0187] A sample of 5 mg of wax positioned in a crucible is
submitted to a first rise in temperature from -20.degree. C. to
100.degree. C., at a heating rate of 10.degree. C./minute, and is
then cooled down from 100.degree. C. to -20.degree. C. at a cooling
rate of 10.degree. C./minute and finally submitted to a second rise
in temperature from -20.degree. C. to 100.degree. C. at a heating
rate of 5.degree. C./minute. During the second rise in temperature,
the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty
crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured
versus temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value
of the temperature corresponding to the apex of the peak of the
curve representing the variation of the absorbed power difference
versus temperature.
[0188] Waxes capable of being used in the compositions according to
the invention are selected from waxes, solid at room temperature,
of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures
thereof.
[0189] The waxes which may be used in the compositions according to
the invention generally have a hardness ranging from 0.5 MPa to 15
MPa, notably above 1 MPa.
[0190] Hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force at
20.degree. C. with a texturometer sold under the name of TA-XT2 by
Stable Micro Systems Ltd, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder
with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s,
and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
[0191] The measurement procedure is the following:
[0192] The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting
point of the wax +10.degree. C. The molten wax is cast into a
container of a diameter of 25 mm and a depth of 20 mm. The wax is
recrystallized at room temperature (25.degree. C.) for 24 hours so
that the surface of the wax is planar and smooth, and the wax is
then kept for at least 1 hour at 20.degree. C. before conducting
the measurement of hardness and tackiness.
[0193] The mobile of the texturometer is moved at the speed of 0.1
mm/s, and then it penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3
mm. When the mobile has penetrated the wax to a depth of 0.3 mm,
the mobile is held fixed for 1 second (corresponding to the
relaxation time) and then withdrawn at the speed of 0.5 mm/s.
[0194] The value of the hardness is the maximum compressive force
divided by the surface of the cylinder of the texturometer in
contact with the wax.
[0195] Use may notably be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as
beeswax, lanolin wax, and China insect waxes; rice bran wax,
carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork fiber
wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax, and sumac
wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite;
polymethylene, polyethylene, propylene waxes and waxes of their
ethylene/propylene copolymers, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch
synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as their esters, waxes from
the reaction of fatty acids on carbohydrates, such as disaccharides
of the sucrose type, such as sucrose polybehenate, marketed by
Croda under the name of Cromaderm B.
[0196] Mention may also be made of waxes from fatty alcohols
selected from saturated or non-saturated fatty alcohols, either
branched or not, including 20 to 60 carbon atoms or mixtures
comprising at least 30% of said fatty alcohols, for example with
polyethylene, such as for example the wax marketed under reference
PERFORMACOL.RTM. 550 L by NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES.
[0197] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic
hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched
C.sub.8-C.sub.32 fatty chains.
[0198] Among the latter, mention may notably be made of
hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated
castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil,
di-(trimethylol-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate sold under the name of
"HEST 2T-4S" by HETERENE, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane)
tetrabehenate sold under the name of HEST 2T-4B by HETERENE.
[0199] Silicone waxes may further be mentioned such as alkyl ou
alkoxy-dimethicone waxes having 16 to 45 carbon atoms, fluorinated
waxes.
[0200] Use may also be made of the wax obtained by hydrogenation of
esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol sold under the name of
"PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" or else further the waxes obtained by
hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol sold
under the name of "PHYTOWAX castor 16L64 and 22L73", by SOPHIM.
Such waxes are described in the application FR-A-2792190.
[0201] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions
according to the invention may comprise at least one wax, a
so-called tacky wax i.e. having tackiness greater than or equal to
0.7 N.s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.
[0202] By using a tacky wax, it is notably possible to obtain a
cosmetic composition which is easily applied on eyelashes, having
good adherence to the eyelashes and which leads to the formation of
a smooth, homogenous and thickening make-up.
[0203] The tacky wax may notably have tackiness ranging from 0.7
N.s to 30 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 1 N.s,
notably ranging from 1 N.s to 20 N.s, in particular greater than or
equal to 2 N.s, notably ranging from 2 N.s to 10 N.s, and in
particular ranging from 2 N.s to 5 N.s.
[0204] The tackiness of the wax is determined by measuring the
change in the force (compressive force or tensile force) over time,
at 20.degree. C. with the texturometer sold under the name of
"TA-TX2i.RTM." by RHEO, equipped with a cone-shaped mobile in
acrylic polymer forming an angle of 45.degree..
[0205] The measurement procedure is the following:
[0206] The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting
point of the wax +10.degree. C. The melted wax is cast into a
container with a diameter of 25 mm and a depth of 20 mm. The wax is
recystallized at room temperature (25.degree. C.) for 24 hours so
that the surface of the wax is planar and smooth, and the wax is
then kept for at least 1 hour at 20.degree. C. before conducting
the measurement of tackiness.
[0207] The mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.5
mm/s, and then penetrates the wax up to a penetration depth of 2
mm. When the mobile has penetrated the wax to the depth of 2 mm,
the mobile is held fixed for 1 second (corresponding to the
relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at the speed of 0.5
mm/s.
[0208] During the relaxation time, the force (compressive force)
strongly decreases until it becomes zero and then, upon withdrawal
of the mobile, the force (tensile force) becomes negative and then
increases again to the value of 0. Tackiness corresponds to the
integral of the force versus time for the portion of the curve
corresponding to the negative values of the force (tensile force).
The value of tackiness is expressed in N.s.
[0209] The tacky wax which may be used generally has a hardness
less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa
to 3.5 MPa, notably ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, or even further
ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.
[0210] Hardness is measured according to the procedure described
earlier.
[0211] As a tacky wax, a C.sub.20-C.sub.40 alkyl
(hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl comprising from 20 to 40
carbon atoms), may be used alone or as a mixture, in particular a
C.sub.20-C.sub.40 alkyl 12-(12'-hydroxystearyloxy)stearate of
formula (II):
##STR00002##
[0212] wherein m is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture
of compounds of formula (II).
[0213] Such a wax is notably sold under the names of "Kester Wax K
82 P.RTM." and "Kester Wax K 80 P.RTM." by KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0214] The waxes mentioned above generally have an initial melting
point below 45.degree. C.
[0215] It is also possible to use the microcrystalline wax marketed
under the reference SP18 by STRAHL and PITSCH which has a hardness
of about 0.46 MPa and a tackiness value of about 1 N.s.
[0216] The wax(es) may be present as an aqueous wax
microdispersion. By aqueous wax microdispersion is meant an aqueous
dispersion of wax particles, in which the size of said wax
particles is less than or equal to about 1 .mu.m.
[0217] Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of wax colloidal
particles and are notably described in "Microemulsions Theory and
Practice", L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32.
[0218] In particular, these wax microdispersions may be obtained by
melting wax in the presence of a surfactant and optionally of a
portion of water, and then by gradually adding hot water under
stirring. The intermediate formation of an emulsion of the
water-in-oil type is observed, followed by phase inversion while
finally obtaining a micro-emulsion of the type oil-in-water type.
Upon cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal wax
particles is obtained.
[0219] The wax microdispersions may also be obtained by stirring
the mixture of wax, surfactant and water with a stirring means such
as ultrasonic waves, a high pressure homogenizer, turbines.
[0220] The particles of the wax microdispersion preferably have
average sizes less than 1 .mu.m (notably ranging from 0.02 .mu.m to
0.99 .mu.m), preferably less than de 0.5 .mu.m (notably ranging
from 0.06 .mu.m to 0.5 .mu.m).
[0221] These particles essentially consist of wax or a mixture of
waxes. However they may comprise in a minority proportion, oily
and/or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and/or a usual
liposoluble additive/active.
[0222] According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition
according to the invention comprises at least one wax selected from
microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, in
particular the wax marketed under reference WAX AC 617 by
Honeywell, ozokerite, carnauba wax, candellila wax, rice bran wax,
beeswax, fatty alcohol waxes comprising 20 to 60 carbon atoms and
mixture thereof.
[0223] According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition
comprises at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one
volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from isoparaffins having 8 to 16
carbon atoms, and notably isododecane, at least one wax selected
from polyethylene waxes, and at least one wax selected from fatty
alcohol waxes.
[0224] According to another embodiment of the invention, the
composition comprises at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at
least one volatile silicon oil selected from volatile cyclic
silicon oils, notably those having a viscosity.ltoreq.8 centistokes
(8 10.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s), and notably cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, at
least one wax selected from polyethylene wax, and at least one wax
selected from beeswax.
[0225] The wax(es) may account for 1 to 50% by weight based on the
total weight of the composition, preferably 5 to 40% and still more
preferably 7.5 to 35% by weight.
[0226] Semi-Crystalline Polymers
[0227] By polymer, is meant compounds including at least two units,
preferably at least 3 units, and especially at least 10 recurrent
units. By semi-crystalline polymer, is meant polymers including a
crystallizable portion, a pendant crystallizable chain or a
crystallizable sequence in the backbone, and an amorphous portion
in the backbone and having a reversible phase transition
temperature of the first order, in particular for melting
(solid-liquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in
the form of a crystallizable sequence of the polymeric backbone,
the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous
sequence; the semi-crystalline polymer is in this case a block
copolymer, for example of the two-block, three-block or
multi-block, including at least one crystallizable sequence and at
least one amorphous sequence. By sequence, is generally meant at
least 5 identical recurrent units. The crystallizable sequence(s)
are then of a chemical nature different from that of the amorphous
sequence(s).
[0228] The semi-crystalline polymer has a melting temperature
greater than or equal to 30.degree. C. (notably ranging from
30.degree. C. to 80.degree. C.), preferably ranging from 30.degree.
C. to 60.degree. C. This melting temperature is a state transition
temperature of the first order.
[0229] This melting temperature may be measured by any known method
and in particular with a differential scanning calorimeter
(DSC).
[0230] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) to which the
invention is applied have a number average molecular mass greater
than or equal to 1,000. Advantageously, the semi-crystalline
polymers of the composition of the invention have a number average
molecular mass Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from
3,000 to 500,000, better from 4,000 to 150,000, notably less than
100,000, and better from 4,000 to 99,000. Preferably, they have a
number average molecular mass above 5,600, ranging for example from
5,700 to 99,000. By crystallizable chain of sequence, is meant in
the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which if it were
alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state
reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below the melting
temperature. A chain in the sense of the invention is a group of
atoms which is pendant or lateral relatively to the backbone of the
polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone,
a group forming one of the recurrent units of the polymer.
Advantageously, the crystallizable pendant chain may be a chain
including at least 6 carbon atoms.
[0231] The semi-crystalline polymer may be selected from block
copolymers including at least one crystallizable sequence and at
least one amorphous sequence, homopolymers and copolymers bearing
at least one crystallizable lateral chain per recurrent unit, and
mixtures thereof.
[0232] Such polymers are described for example in document EP
1396259.
[0233] According to a more particular embodiment of the invention,
the polymer derives from a monomer with a crystallizable chain
selected from saturated C.sub.14 a C.sub.22
alky(meth)acrylates.
[0234] As a particular example of a structuring semi-crystalline
polymer which may be used in the composition according to the
invention, the products Intelimer.RTM. of Landec described in the
brochure Intelimer.RTM. polymers, Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97) may be
mentioned. These polymers are in solid form at room temperature
(25.degree. C.). They bear crystallizable lateral chains and have
the previous formula X.
[0235] The semi-crystalline polymer(s) may account for 1 to 50% by
weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably
from 5 to 40% and still more preferably from 7.5 to 35% by
weight.
Lipophilic Gelling Agents
[0236] The gelling agents which may be used in the composition
according to the invention, may be polymeric or molecular organic
or mineral lipophilic gelling agents.
[0237] As a mineral lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made
of optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified by a
C.sub.10-C.sub.22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as the
hectorite modified by di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, like
for example the one marketed under the name of Bentone 38V.RTM. by
ELEMENTIS.
[0238] Mention may also be made of pyrogenated silica optionally
treated so as to be hydrophobic at the surface, the particle size
of which is less than 1 .mu.m. It is actually possible to
chemically modify the surface of silica, by a chemical reaction
generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at
the surface of the silica. Silanol groups may notably be
substituted with hydrophobic groups: hydrophobic silica is then
obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: [0239] trimethylsiloxyl
groups, which are notably obtained by treating pyrogenated silica
in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Thereby treated silicas
are designated as Silica silylate according to CTFA (6.sup.th
edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under references
Aerosil R812.RTM. by DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530.RTM. by CABOT,
[0240] dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are
notably obtained by treating pyrogenated silica in the presence of
polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Thereby treated
silicas are designated as Silica dimethyl silylate according to
CTFA (6.sup.th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under
references Aerosil R972.RTM., and Aerosil R974.RTM. by DEGUSSA,
CAB-O-SIL TS-610.RTM. and CAB-O-SIL TS-720.RTM. by CABOT.
[0241] The hydrophobic pyrogenated silica in particular has a
particle size which may be from nanometric to micrometric, for
example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
[0242] It is also possible to use non-polymeric molecular organic
gelling agents, also called organo-gelling agents, associated with
a liquid fatty phase (which may be the liquid fatty phase of the
composition according to the invention), which are compounds for
which the molecules are capable of establishing between them
physical interactions leading to self-aggregation of the molecules
with formation of a supra-molecular 3D lattice which is responsible
for the gelling of the liquid fatty phase.
[0243] The supra-molecular lattice may result from the formation of
a fibril lattice (due to stacks or aggregations of organo-gelling
agent molecules), immobilizing the molecules of the liquid fatty
phase.
[0244] The capacity of forming this fibril lattice and therefore of
gelling, depends on the nature (or chemical class) or the
organo-gelling agent, on the nature of the substituents borne by
its molecules for a given chemical class and on the nature of the
liquid fatty phase.
[0245] The physical interactions are diverse but exclude
co-crystallization. These physical interactions are in particular
interactions of the self-complementary hydrogen interaction type,
.pi. interactions between unsaturated rings, dipolar interactions,
coordination bonds with organometal derivatives and their
associations. Generally, each molecule of an organogelling agent
may establish several types of physical interactions with a
neighboring molecule. Also, advantageously, the molecules of the
organogelling agents according to the invention include at least
one group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds and better at
least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds, at least
one aromatic ring and better at least two aromatic rings, at least
one or more ethylenically unsaturated bonds, and/or at least one or
more asymmetrical carbons. Preferably, the groups capable of
producing hydrogen bonds are selected from hydroxyl, carbonyl,
amine, carboxylic acid, amide, urea, benzyl groups and combinations
thereof.
[0246] The organo-gelling agent(s) are soluble in the liquid fatty
phase after heating until a transparent homogenous liquid phase is
obtained. They may be solid or liquid at room temperature and under
atmospheric pressure.
[0247] The molecular organo-gelling agents which may be used in the
composition according to the invention are notably those described
in document Specialist Surfactants, edited by D. Robb in 1997, p.
209-263, Chapter 8 of P. Terech, European applications EP-A-1068854
and EP-A-1086945 or further in the application WO-A-02/47031.
[0248] Among these organo-gelling agents, mention may notably be
made of amides of carboxylic acids, in particular tri-carboxylic
acids such as cyclohexanetricarboxamides (see European patent
application EP-A-1068854), diamides having hydrocarbon chains each
containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example from 6 to 18
carbon atoms, said chains being non-substituted or substituted with
at least one substituent selected from ester, urea and fluoro
groups (see application EP-A-1086945) and notably diamides
resulting from the reaction of diaminocyclohexane, in particular
diaminocyclohexane in the trans form, and of an acid chloride, such
as for example N,N'-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,2-diaminocyclohexane, the
amides of N-acylamino acids such as diamides resulting from the
action of N-acylamino acid with amines including 1 to 22 carbon
atoms, such as for example those described in document WO-93/23008
and notably the amides of N-acylglutamic acid where the acyl group
represents a C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl chain, such as dibutylamide of
N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid, made or marketed by Ajinomoto under the
name of GP-1 and mixtures thereof.
[0249] The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are for
example: [0250] partly or totally cross-linked elastomeric
organopolysiloxanes, with a three-dimensional structure, like those
marketed under the names of KSG6.RTM., KSG16.RTM. and KSG18.RTM. by
SHIN-ETSU, Trefil E-505C.RTM. and Trefil E-506C.RTM. by
DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC.RTM., SR DMF10.RTM., SR-DC556.RTM., SR
5CYC Gel.RTM., SR DMF 10 Gel.RTM. and SR DC 556 Gel.RTM. by GRANT
INDUSTRIES, SF 1204.RTM. and JK 113.RTM. by GENERAL ELECTRIC;
[0251] the ethylcellulose such as the one sold under the name of
Ethocel.RTM. by DOW CHEMICAL; [0252] polycondensates of the
polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (.alpha.) at
least one acid selected from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least
32 carbon atoms, such as dimeric fatty acids, and (.beta.) an
alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, wherein the
polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid
group esterified or amidified with at least one linear and
saturated mono-alcohol or mono-amine comprising 12-30 carbon atoms,
and in particular, the copolymers of ethylene diamine/stearyl
dilinoleate such as the one marketed under the name of Uniclear 100
VG.RTM. by ARIZONA CHEMICAL; [0253] silicone polyamides of the
polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents U.S.
Pat. No. 5,874,069, U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441, U.S. Pat. No.
6,051,216 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680 such as for example those
marketed under the reference Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant by DOW
CORNING; [0254] galactomannans including from one to six, and in
particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per ose, substituted
with a saturated or non-saturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum
alkylated with C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl chains, and in particular
C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof; [0255] block
copolymers, optionally hydrogenated, of the diblock, triblock or
radial type, in particular with styrene blocks and
ethylene/C.sub.3-C.sub.4 alkylene blocks.
[0256] As a diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may
be made of copolymers of styrene-ethylene/propylene,
styrene-ethylene/butadiene copolymers. Diblock polymers are notably
sold under the name of Kraton.RTM. G1701E by Kraton Polymers.
[0257] As a triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention
may be made of copolymers of styrene-ethylene/propylene-styrene,
copolymers of styrene-ethylene/butadiene-styrene, copolymers of
styrene-isoprene-styrene, copolymers of styrene-butadiene-styrene.
Triblock polymers are notably sold under the names of Kraton.RTM.
G1650, Kraton.RTM. G1652, Kraton.RTM. D1101, Kraton.RTM.D1102,
Kraton.RTM. D1160 by Kraton Polymers.
[0258] A mixture of hydrogenated triblock
styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene copolymer and of a hydrogenated
star ethylene-propylene-styrene polymer may also be used, such a
mixture being notably in isododecane. Such mixtures are for example
sold by PENRECO under the trade names of VERSAGEL.RTM. M5960 and
VERSAGEL.RTM.M5670.
[0259] Mention may also be made of polystyrene/polyisoprene,
polystyrene/polybutadiene copolymers such as those marketed under
the name of Luvitol HSB.RTM. by BASF.
[0260] Among the lipophilic gelling agents which may be used in the
compositions according to the invention, mention may further be
made of esters of dextrin and of a fatty acid, such as dextrin
palmitates, notably such as those marketed under the names of
Rheopearl TL.RTM. or Rheopearl KL.RTM. by CHIBA FLOUR.
[0261] The lipophilic gelling agent(s) may account for 1 to 50% by
weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably
from 5 to 40% and still more preferably from 7.5 to 35% by
weight.
[0262] Pasty Compound
[0263] The composition according to the invention may comprise at
least one pasty compound.
[0264] By pasty in the sense of the present invention, is meant a
lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state
transition and including a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at
the temperature of 23.degree. C.
[0265] The pasty compound preferably has hardness at 20.degree. C.
ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4
MPa.
[0266] The hardness is measured according to a method with
penetration of a probe in a compound sample and in particular by
means of a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Stable Micro
Systems Ltd) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a
diameter of 2 mm. The hardness measurement is carried out at
20.degree. C. at the centre of 5 samples. The cylinder is
introduced into each sample with a preliminary speed of 1 mm/s and
then with a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, the penetration depth
being 0.3 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the
peak maximum.
[0267] This pasty compound further is at the temperature of
23.degree. C., in the form of a liquid fraction and of a solid
fraction. In other words, the initial melting temperature of the
pasty compound is less than 23.degree. C. The liquid fraction of
the pasty compound measured at 23.degree. C. accounts for 23 to 97%
by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23.degree. C.
preferably accounts for between 40 and 85% by weight of the
compound.
[0268] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at
23.degree. C. is equal to the ratio of the consumed melting
enthalpy at 23.degree. C. over the melting enthalpy of the pasty
compound.
[0269] The melting enthalpy of the pasty compound is the enthalpy
consumed by the compound for passing from the solid state to the
liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state
when the whole of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is
said to be in the liquid state when the whole of its mass is in
liquid form.
[0270] The melting enthalpy of the pasty compound is equal to the
area under the curve of the thermogram obtained by means of a
differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter
sold under the name of MDSC 2920 by TA Instrument, with a rise in
temperature of 5 or 10.degree. C. per minute, according to the ISO
11357-3:1999 standard. The melting enthalpy of the pasty compound
is the amount of energy required for having the compound pass from
the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
[0271] The melting enthalpy consumed at 23.degree. C. is the amount
of energy absorbed by the sample in order to pass from the solid
state to the state which it has at 23.degree. C. consisting of a
liquid fraction and of a solid fraction.
[0272] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at
32.degree. C. preferably accounts for 40 to 100% by weight of the
compound, preferably for 50 to 100%, preferably 80 to 100%, still
preferably for 90 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the
liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32.degree. C. is
equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of
the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32.degree. C.
[0273] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at
32.degree. C. is equal to the ratio of the consumed melting
enthalpy at 32.degree. C. over the melting enthalpy of the pasty
compound. The melting enthalpy consumed at 32.degree. C. is
calculated in the same way as the melting enthalpy consumed at
23.degree. C.
[0274] The pasty compound is preferably selected from synthetic
compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be
obtained by synthesis starting with products of plant origin.
[0275] The pasty compound is advantageously selected from: [0276]
lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol,
oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as
isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins, [0277] polymeric or
non-polymeric silicone compounds, such as polydimethysiloxanes with
high molecular masses, polydimethysiloxanes with side chains of the
alkyl or alkoxy type having 8-24 carbon atoms, notably stearyl
dimethicones, [0278] polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated
compounds [0279] vinyl polymers, notably: [0280] olefin
homopolymers [0281] olefin copolymers [0282] hydrogenated diene
homopolymers and copolymers [0283] linear or branched oligomers,
homo- or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably having a
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl group [0284] oligomers, homo- and copolymers
of vinyl esters having C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups [0285]
oligomers, homo- and copolymers or vinyl ethers having
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups, [0286] liposoluble polyethers
resulting from polyetherification between one or more
C.sub.2-C.sub.100, preferably C.sub.2-C.sub.50 diols, [0287] polyol
ethers selected from pentaerythritol polyalkylene glycol ethers,
fatty ethers of fatty alcohol and sugar, and mixtures thereof, the
pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol ether including 5
oxyethylenated units (5 EO) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl
Ether), the pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol ether
including 5 oxypropylenated units (5 PO) (CTFA name: PPG-5
Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof and especially the
PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, the PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and
soya bean oil mixture, marketed under the name of Lanolide by Vevy,
a mixture where the constituents are found in a weight ratio of
46/46/8:46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5
Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% of soya bean oil, [0288] esters and
polyesters, [0289] and mixtures thereof.
[0290] The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, notably a
hydrocarbon polymer.
[0291] A preferred silicone and fluorinated pasty compound is
polymethyl trifluoropropryl methylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, made
under the name of X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU.
[0292] When the pasty compound is a silicone and/or fluorinated
polymer, the composition advantageously comprises a
compatibilization agent such as short chain esters like isodecyl
neopentanoate.
[0293] Among the liposoluble polyethers, the copolymers of ethylene
oxide and/or propylene oxide with long chain C.sub.6-C.sub.30
alkylene oxides are particularly preferred, further preferably such
that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with
alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this
family, mention will notably be made of copolymers such that the
long chain alkylene oxides are positioned as blocks with an average
molecular weight from 1,000 to 10,000, for example a block
copolymer of polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol, such as the ethers
of dodecanediol (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) marketed
under the brand of ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
[0294] Among the esters, are notably preferred [0295] esters of an
oligomeric glycerol, notably esters of diglycerol, in particular
condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of
the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of
fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, and
isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, notably reflecting
those marketed under the brand Softisan 649 by Sasol [0296]
phytosterol esters, [0297] pentaerythritol esters, [0298] esters
formed from: [0299] at least one alcohol, at least one of the
alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and [0300] from a diacid dimer
formed from at least one unsaturated fatty acid, [0301] like the
ester of tallol fatty acid dimer comprising 36 carbon atoms and a
mixture i) of Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii)
behenyl alcohol; the ester of linoleic acid dimer and of a mixture
of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms)
and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms). [0302] non-crosslinked
polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a dicarboxylic
acid and a linear or branched C.sub.4-C.sub.50 carboxylic polyacid
and a diol or a C.sub.2-C.sub.50 polyol, [0303] polyesters which
result from esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid of an ester of
aliphatic carboxylic hydroxyl acid such as Risocast DA-L and
Risocast DA-H marketed by the Japanese corporation KOKYU ALCOHOL
KOGYO, which are esters resulting from the esterification reaction
of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid
[0304] ester aliphatic esters resulting from esterification of an
ester of aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid by an aliphatic
carboxylic acid; (Salacos HCIS (V)-L marketed by Nishing Oil).
[0305] The aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 and
preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected
from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, ethyl-2-hexanoic
acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic
acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid,
hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid,
octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic
acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid,
docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0306] The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.
[0307] The aliphatic hydroxylcarboxylic acid ester is
advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic
acid including from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34
carbon atoms and better from 12 to 28 carbon atoms and from 1 to 20
hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and better
from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The ester of aliphatic
hydroxylcarboxylic acid is selected from:
[0308] a) partial or total esters of saturated linear
monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;
[0309] b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated
aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;
[0310] c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated
aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;
[0311] d) partial or total esters of unsaturated polyhydroxylated
aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;
[0312] e) partial or total esters of C.sub.2-C.sub.16 aliphatic
polyols having reacted with a mono- or poly-hydroxylated aliphatic
mono- or poly-carboxylic acid,
[0313] and mixtures thereof.
[0314] The ester aliphatic esters are advantageously selected
from:
[0315] the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of
hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to
1 (1/1) or hydrogenated castor oil monoisosteparate, [0316] the
ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated
castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 2 (1/2) or
hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate, [0317] the ester resulting
from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with
isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 3 (1/3) or hydrogenated
castor oil triisostearate, [0318] and mixtures thereof.
[0319] The pasty compound may also be of plant origin. In this
case, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as
trans-isomerized partly hydrogenated jojoba oil made or marketed by
Desert Whale under the trade name reference Iso-Jojoba-50.RTM.,
orange wax such as for example, the one which is marketed under
reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen, shea butter, partly
hydrogenated olive oil such as for example the compound marketed
under reference Beurrolive by Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil,
such as for example Lipex 302 from Aarhuskarlshamn.
[0320] The pasty compound preferably accounts for 0.5 to 85%,
better 1 to 60%, better 2 to 30% and still better 3 to 15% by
weight of the composition.
[0321] Aqueous Phase
[0322] The composition according to the invention may comprise an
aqueous phase which may essentially consist of water; it may also
comprise a mixture of water and of a solvent miscible with water (a
water miscibility greater than 50% at 25.degree. C.) such as lower
mono-alcohols having 1-5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol,
glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol,
ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,
C.sub.3-C.sub.4 ketones, en C.sub.2-C.sub.4 aldehydes and mixtures
thereof.
[0323] According to an embodiment, the composition comprises an
aqueous phase with a content of less than 10%, preferably 5% by
weight, and better less than 2% by weight based on the total weight
of the composition.
[0324] According to another embodiment, the composition comprises
an aqueous phase with a content ranging from 5% to 95% by weight,
based on the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging
from 10% to 80% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 15% to
60% by weight.
[0325] Emulsifying System
[0326] The composition according to the invention may contain
emulsifying surfactants notably present in a proportion ranging
from 0.01 to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the
composition, better from 1 to 15% and better from 2 to 10%.
[0327] According to the invention, an emulsifier is generally used,
suitably selected for obtaining an oil-in-water emulsion. In
particular, it is possible to use an emulsifier having at
25.degree. C. an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the sense
of GRIFFIN, greater than or equal to 8.
[0328] The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc.
Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Vol. 5), pages 249-256.
[0329] These surfactants may be selected from non-ionic, anionic,
cationic, amphoteric surfactants and their combinations. Reference
may be made to the document Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology,
KIRK-OTHMER, Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3.sup.rd edition, 1979, WILEY,
for the definition of the properties and (emulsifying) functions of
surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for
anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.
[0330] The surfactants preferentially used in the composition
according to the invention are selected from:
[0331] a) non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal
to 8 at 25.degree. C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may
notably be made of: [0332] esters and ethers of oses such as the
mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols
like Montanov 68 from Seppic; [0333] oxyethylenated and/or
oxypropylenated ethers (which may include 1 to 150 oxyethylenated
and/or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol; [0334] oxyethylenated
and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may include from 1 to 150
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols
(notably C.sub.8-C.sub.24 alcohols and preferably C.sub.12-C.sub.18
alcohols) such as the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol with
30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), oxyethylenated
ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name
"Steareth-20"), and oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of
C.sub.12-C.sub.15 fatty alcohols including 7 oxyethylenated groups
(CTFA name "C.sub.12-C.sub.15 Pareth-7") marketed under the name of
NEODOL 25-7.RTM. by SHELL CHEMICALS, [0335] esters of a fatty acid
(notably of C.sub.8-C.sub.24 acids, and preferably
C.sub.16-C.sub.22 acids) and of polyethylene glycol (which may
comprise 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units) such as PEG-50 stearate
and PEG-40 monostearate marketed as MYRJ 52P.RTM. by ICI UNIQUEMA,
[0336] esters of a fatty acid (notably of C.sub.8-C.sub.24 acids,
and preferably C.sub.16-C.sub.22 acids) and of oxyethylenated
and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may include 1 to 150
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200
glyceryl monostearate sold under the name of Simulsol 220.TM..RTM.
by SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide
groups such as the product TAGAT S.RTM. sold by GOLDSCHMIDT,
polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups like
the product TAGAT O.RTM. sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated
glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups like the product
VARIONIC LI 13.RTM. sold by SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl
isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups like the product TAGAT
L.RTM. sold by GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate
with 30 ethylene oxide groups like the product TAGAT I.RTM. from
GOLDSCHMIDT, [0337] esters of a fatty acid (notably
C.sub.8-C.sub.24 acids, and preferably C.sub.16-C.sub.22 acids) and
of oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may
include from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated groups)
like polysorbate 20 sold under the name of Tween 20.RTM. by CRODA,
polysorbate 60 sold under the name of 60.RTM. by CRODA, [0338]
dimethicone copolyol, such as the one sold under the name of
Q2-5220.RTM. by DOW CORNING, [0339] dimethicone copolyol benzoate
(FINSOLV SLB 101.RTM. and 201.RTM. from FINTEX), [0340] copolymers
of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also called EO/PO
polycondensates, [0341] and mixtures thereof.
[0342] The EO/PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers
consisting in polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks,
such as for example polyethylene
glycol/polypropylene/glycol/polyethylene glycol tri-block
polycondensates. These tri-block polycondensates for example have
the following chemical structure:
H--(O--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2).sub.a--(O--CH(CH.sub.3)--CH.sub.2).sub.b--(O--
-CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2).sub.a--OH,
formula wherein a ranges from 2 to 120 and b ranges from 1 to
100.
[0343] The EO/PO polycondensate preferably has an average weight
molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 15,000, and better from
2,000 to 13,000. Advantageously, said EO/PO polycondensate has a
cloud temperature at 10 g/L in distilled water, greater than or
equal to 20.degree. C., preferably greater than or equal to
60.degree. C. The cloud temperature is measured according to the
ISO 1065 standard. As a EO/PO polycodensate which may be used
according to the invention, mention may be made of polyethylene
glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol tri-block
polycondensates sold under the names of SYNPERONIC.RTM. such as
SYNPERONIC PE/L44.RTM. and SYNPERONIC PE/F127.RTM. by ICI.
[0344] b) the non-ionic surfactants with HLB of less than 8 at
25.degree. C., optionally associated with one or more non-ionic
surfactants with an HLB above 8 at 25.degree. C., as mentioned
above, such as: [0345] esters and ethers of oses such as sucrose
stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate and their mixtures
such as Arlatone 2121.RTM. marketed by ICI; [0346] oxyethylenated
and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may include 1 to 150
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols
(notably C.sub.8-C.sub.24 alcohols and preferably C.sub.12-C.sub.18
alcohols) such as the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with
two oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-2"); [0347] esters
of fatty acids (notable of C.sub.8-C.sub.24 acids, and preferably
C.sub.16-C.sub.22 acids) and of polyol, notably glycerol or
sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the
product sold under the name TEGIN M.RTM. from GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl
laurate such as the product sold under the name of IMWITOR 312.RTM.
by HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl
ricinoleate; [0348] lecithins, such as soya bean lecithins, (like
Emulmetik 100 J from Cargill, or Biophilic H from Lucas Meyer);
[0349] the cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol mixture sold under
the name of Q2-3225C.RTM. by DOW CORNING.
[0350] c) anionic surfactants such as: [0351] the salts of
C.sub.16-C.sub.30 fatty acids notably those derived from amines,
such as triethanolamine stearate and/or amino-2-methyl-2-propane
di-of-1,3 stearate; [0352] the salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty
acids, notably those derived from amine or alkaline salts, and
mixtures thereof; [0353] phosphoric esters and their salts such as
"DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N 10N from CRODA) or
monopotassium monocetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);
[0354] sulfosuccinates such as "Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl
sulfosuccinate" and "Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate";
[0355] alkylethersulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
[0356] isethionates; [0357] acylglutamates such as "Disodium
hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (AMISOFT HS-21 R.RTM. marketed by
AJINOMOTO) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 PF.RTM.
marketed by AJINOMOTO) and mixtures thereof; [0358] derivatives of
soya bean such as potassium soyate; [0359] citrates, such as
glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets from Degussa); [0360]
proline derivatives such as sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG
from Seppic), or the mixture of sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate,
magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and palmitoyl proline
(Sepifeel One from Seppic); [0361] lactylates, such as sodium
stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB); [0362]
sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol
sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of stearoyl sarcosine et myristoyl
sarcosine 75/25 (Crodasin SM from Croda) [0363] sulfonates, such as
sodium secondary C.sub.14-17 alkyl sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from
Clariant); [0364] glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate
(Amilite GCS-12 from Ajinomoto).
[0365] Triethanolamine stearate is most particularly suitable for
the invention. It is generally obtained by simply mixing stearic
acid and triethanolamine.
[0366] The composition according to the invention may also contain
one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl-aminoacids such
as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate and amine
oxides such as stearamine oxide or further silicone surfactants
such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as the one sold under
the name of PECOSIL PS 100.RTM. by PHOENIX CHEMICAL.
[0367] The usable surfactant may also be a polymeric surfactant,
notably a thermogelling polymer.
[0368] Hydrophilic Gelling Agent
[0369] When it comprises an aqueous phase, the composition
according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic gelling
agent.
[0370] Hydrophic gelling agents which may be used in the
compositions according to the invention may be selected from:
[0371] homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their
salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under
the names of VERSICOL F.RTM. or VERSICOL K.RTM. by ALLIED COLLOID,
UTRAHOLD 8.RTM. by CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K
type, [0372] copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold as
their sodium salt under the names of RETEN.RTM. by HERCULES, sodium
polymethacrylate sold under the name of DARVAN N.sup.o7.RTM. by
VANDERBILT, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under
the name of HYDAGEN F.RTM. by HENKEL, [0373] polyacrylic acid/alkyl
acrylate copolymers of the PEMULEN type, [0374] AMPS
(polyacrylamidomethyl propane-sulfonic acid partly neutralized with
ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by CLARIANT, [0375]
AMPS/acrylamide of the SEPIGEL.RTM. or SIMULGEL.RTM. type marketed
by SEPPIC, et [0376] polyoxyethylenated AMPS/alkyl methacrylate
(either cross-linked or not), and mixtures thereof. [0377] The
water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned hereinbelow may also
play the role of a hydrophilic gelling agent. [0378] The
hydrophilic gelling agent may also be present in the composition
according to the invention as a dry material content ranging from
0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight,
better from 1% to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the
composition.
[0379] Film-Forming Polymer
[0380] The composition according to the invention may comprise
according to a particular embodiment, at least one film-forming
polymer.
[0381] The film-forming polymer may be present in the composition
according to the invention with a dry material content (or of
active materials) ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight based on the
total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by
weight, and better from 1% to 15% by weight.
[0382] In the present invention, by film-forming polymer, is meant
a polymer capable of forming alone in the presence of an auxiliary
filmification agent, a macroscopically continuous film adherent to
the eyelashes, and preferably a cohesive film, or still better a
film, the cohesion and mechanical properties of which are such that
said film may be isolated and handled individually, for example
when said film is made by casting on an anti-adhesive surface such
as a teflon or silicone surface.
[0383] Among the film-forming polymers which may be used in the
composition of the present invention, synthetic polymers may be
mentioned, of the radical type or of the polycondensate type,
polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0384] By radical film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained
by polymerization of notably ethylenically unsaturated monomers,
each monomer being capable of homopolymerization (unlike
polycondensates).
[0385] Film-forming polymers of the radical type may notably be
vinyl polymers or copolymers, notably acrylic polymers.
[0386] Film-forming vinyl polymers may result from the
polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at
least one acid group and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or
amides of these acid monomers.
[0387] As a monomer bearing an acid group, .alpha.,.beta.-ethylenic
unsaturated carboxylic acids may be used, such as acrylic acid,
(meth)acrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. Use
is preferably made of (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and
more preferentially (meth)acrylic acid.
[0388] The esters of acid monomers are advantageously selected from
esters of (meth)acrylic acid (further called (meth)acrylates),
notably alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C.sub.1-C.sub.30,
preferably C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkyl (meth)acrylates, aryl
(meth)acrylates, in particular C.sub.6-C.sub.10 aryl
(meth)acrylates, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular
C.sub.2-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0389] Among alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl
methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl
methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate,
cyclohexyl methacrylate.
[0390] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made
of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl
methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0391] Among aryl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl
acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
[0392] The particularly preferred esters of (meth)acrylic acid are
alkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0393] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the
esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. part or
all the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with
fluorine atoms.
[0394] As amides of acid monomers, mention may for example be made
of (meth)acrylamide and notably N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in
particular C.sub.2-C.sub.12 alkyl (meth)acrylamides. Among N-alkyl
(meth)acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide,
N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and
N-undecylacrylamide.
[0395] Film-forming vinyl polymers may also result from
homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from
vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers
may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or their esters and/or
their amides, as those mentioned earlier.
[0396] As an example of vinyl esters, mention may be made of vinyl
acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and
vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
[0397] As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene and
alpha-methyl styrene.
[0398] Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made
of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and
epoxy ester resins, polyureas.
[0399] Polyurethanes may be selected from anionic, cationic,
non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes,
poly-urethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes,
polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and
mixtures thereof.
[0400] The polyesters may be obtained in a known way by
polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, notably
diols.
[0401] The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or
aromatic. Mention may for example be made of such acids: oxalic
acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric
acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic
acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid,
itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid,
1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid,
isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 5-norbornane-dicarboxylic
acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid,
2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.
These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or as a
combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these
monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid are
preferentially selected.
[0402] The diol may be selected from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic
diols. Preferably a diol is used, selected from: ethylene glycol,
diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane
dimethanol, 4-butanediol. Like other polyols, glycerol,
pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane may be used.
[0403] The amide polyesters may be obtained in an analogous way to
polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids, with diamines of amino
alcohols. As a diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine,
meta- or para-phenylenediamine may be used. As an amino alcohol,
monoethanolamine may be used.
[0404] The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer
bearing at least one --SO.sub.3M group, with M representing a
hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH.sub.4.sup.+ or a metal ion, such
as for example a Na.sup.+, Li.sup.+, K.sup.+, Mg.sup.2+, Ca.sup.2+,
Cu.sup.2+, Fe.sup.2+, Fe.sup.3+ ion. A bifunctional aromatic
monomer including such a --SO.sub.3M group may notably be used.
[0405] The aromatic ring of the bifunctional aromatic monomer
further bearing a --SO.sub.3M group as described above may be
selected for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene,
diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, methylenediphenyl rings.
As an example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing a
--SO.sub.3M group, mention may be made of sulfoisophthalic acid,
sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid,
4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylique acid.
[0406] Copolymers based on isophthalate/sulfoisophthalate are
preferably used and more particularly copolymers obtained by
condensation of di-ethyleneglycol, cyclohexane di-methanol,
isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.
[0407] Polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, may be
selected from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar gums, elemi gums
or resins, copal resins, cellulose polymers and mixtures
thereof.
[0408] According to a first embodiment of the composition according
to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble
polymer and may be present in an aqueous phase of the composition;
the polymer is therefore solubilized in the aqueous phase of the
composition.
[0409] According to another alternative embodiment of the
composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer
may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising
organic oils or solvents such as those described earlier (it is
then stated that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble
polymer). Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile
oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils may be
selected from the oils mentioned earlier.
[0410] As an example of liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of
copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to
the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a
linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon radical with 1 to 19
carbon atoms, bound to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of at
least another monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from
the vinyl ester already present), an .alpha.-olefin (having 8-20
carbon atoms), an alkylvinylether (the alkyl group of which
includes 2-18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having
a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon radical, with 1-19
carbon atoms, bound to the carbonyl of the ester group).
[0411] These copolymers may be cross-linked by means of
cross-linking agents which may be of the vinyl type or of the allyl
or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene,
divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl
octadecanedioate.
[0412] As examples of these copolymers, mention may be made of the
copolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl
laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene,
vinyl acetate/octadecylvinylether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate,
vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/octadecene-1, vinyl
acetate/dodecene-1, vinyl stearate/ethylvinylether, vinyl
propionate/cetylvinylether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl
dimethyl-2,2-octanoate/vinyl laurate,
allyldimethyl-2,2-pentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl
propionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl
stearate, vinyl propionate/vinyl stearate, cross-linked with 0.2%
of divinylbenzene, vinyldimethyl propionate/vinyl laurate,
cross-linked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene, vinyl
acetate/octadecylvinylether cross-linked with 0.2% of
tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, cross-linked
with 0.2% of divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate/octadecene-1
cross-linked with 0.2% of divinyl benzene and allyl
propionate/allyl stearate cross-linked with 0.2% of divinyl
benzene.
[0413] As liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention may also be
made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting
from copolymerization of vinyl esters having 9 to 22 carbon atoms
or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having
10 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0414] Such liposoluble copolymers may be selected from copolymers
of polyvinyl stearate, of polyvinyl stearate cross-linked with
divinyl benzene, of diallylether or diallylphthalate, copolymers of
stearyl poly(meth)acrylate, polyvinyl laurate, polylauryl
(meth)acrylate, these poly(meth)acrylates may be cross-linked with
ethyleneglycol or tetraethyleneglycol dimethacrylate.
[0415] The liposoluble copolymers defined earlier are known and
notably described in application FR-A-2232303; they may have an
average weight molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and
preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.
[0416] As liposoluble film-forming polymers which may be used in
the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and
notably copolymers of C.sub.2-C.sub.20 alkenes, such as polybutene,
alkylcelluloses with a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched
C.sub.1-C.sub.8 alkyl radical such as ethylcellulose and
propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and notably
copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C.sub.2-C.sub.40 and better
C.sub.3-C.sub.20 alkenes. As an example of a VP copolymer which may
be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of
VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated
polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethylmethacrylate/methacrylic acid,
VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene, VP/acrylic
acid/lauryl methacrylate.
[0417] Mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally
soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are polymers of
cross-linked polyorganosiloxanes. The nomenclature of silicone
resins is known as MDTQ, the resin being described according to
different siloxane monomeric units which it comprises, each of the
letters MDTQ characterizing a unit type.
[0418] As examples of commercially available
polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those which
are marketed: [0419] by Wacker under reference Resin MK such as
Belsil PMS MK: [0420] by SHIN-ETSU under references KR-220L.
[0421] As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of
trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (TMS) such as those marketed under
reference SR1000 by General Electric or under reference TMS 803 by
Wacker. Mention may further be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate
resins marketed in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the
name of KF-7312J by Shin-Etsu, DC 749, DC 593 by Dow Corning.
[0422] Mention may also be made of copolymers of silicone resins
such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as
pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers marketed by Dow Corning
under the reference BIO-PSA and described in document U.S. Pat. No.
5,162,410 or further silicone copolymers from the reaction of a
silicone resin, such as those described above, and of a
diorganosiloxane as described in document WO 2004/073626.
[0423] According to an embodiment of the invention, the
film-forming polymer is a film-forming linear block ethylene
polymer, which preferably comprises at least one first block and at
least one second block having different glassy transition
temperatures (Tg), said first and second blocks being linked
together by an intermediate block comprising at least one
constitutive monomer of the first block and at least one
constitutive monomer of the second block.
[0424] Advantageously, the first and second blocks of the block
polymer are incompatible with each other.
[0425] Such polymers are described for example in documents EP
1411069 or WO04/028488.
[0426] The film-forming polymer may also be present in the
composition as dispersed particles in an aqueous phase or in a
non-aqueous solvent phase generally known as latex or pseudo-latex.
The preparation techniques of these dispersions are well-known to
one skilled in the art.
[0427] As an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is
possible to use acrylic dispersions sold under the names of Neocryl
XK-90.RTM., Neocryl A-1070.RTM., Neocryl A-1090.RTM., Neocryl
BT-62.RTM., Neocryl A-1079.RTM. et Neocryl A-523.RTM. by
AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432.RTM. by DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000
AD.RTM. or Daitosol 5000 SJ.RTM. by DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran
5760.RTM. by Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by ROHM & HAAS, aqueous
dispersions of acrylic or styrene/acrylic polymers sold under the
brand name JONCRYL.RTM. by JOHNSON POLYMER or further aqueous
dispersions of polyurethanes sold under the names of Neorez
R-981.RTM. and Neorez R-974.RTM. by AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure
UR-405.RTM., Avalure UR-410.RTM., Avalure UR-425.RTM., Avalure
UR-450.RTM., Sancure 875.RTM., Sancure 861.RTM., Sancure 878.RTM.
and Sancure 2060.RTM. by GOODRICH, Impranil 85.RTM. by BAYER,
Aquamere H-1511.RTM. by HYDROMER; sulfopolyesters sold under the
brand name of Eastman AQ.RTM. by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl
dispersions such as Mexomere PAM.RTM. from CHIMEX and mixtures
thereof.
[0428] As examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming
polymer, mention may be made of acrylic dispersions in isododecane
such as Mexomere PAP.RTM. from CHIMEX, dispersions of particles of
grafted ethylene polymer, preferably an acrylic polymer, in a
liquid fatty phase, the ethylene polymer being advantageously
dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of
the particles, as notably described in document WO 04/055081.
[0429] The composition according to the invention may comprise a
plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming
polymer. Such a plasticizer may be selected from all the compounds
known to one skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the
sought function.
[0430] Coloring Material
[0431] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
at least one coloring material such as powdery materials,
liposoluble coloring agents, hydrosoluble coloring agents.
[0432] The powdery coloring materials may be selected from pigments
and mothers of pearls.
[0433] The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or
organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be
made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium,
zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides manganese
violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrates and ferric blue. Among
the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments
of the D & C type, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine,
barium, strontium, calcium, aluminium.
[0434] The mothers of pearls may be selected from white iridescent
pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth
oxychloride, colored iridescent pigments such as titanium mica with
iron oxides, titanium mica with notably ferric blue or chromium
oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned
type, as well as iridescent pigments based on bismuth
oxychloride.
[0435] The liposoluble coloring agents are for example Sudan red,
D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, 13-carotene, soya bean oil, Sudan
brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5,
quinoline yellow, annatto.
[0436] These coloring materials may be present with a content
ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the
composition.
[0437] Fillers
[0438] The composition of the invention may further comprise one
filler.
[0439] Fillers may be selected from those well-known to one skilled
in the art and currently used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers
may be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be
made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as
Nylon.RTM. marketed under the name of Orgasol.RTM. by Atochem,
powders of poly-.beta.-alanine and of polyethylene, the powders of
tetrafluoroethylene polymers such as Teflon.RTM., lauroyl-lysine,
starch, boron nitride, expansed polymeric hollow microspheres such
as those of polyvinylidene/acrylonitrile chloride like those
marketed under the name of Expancel.RTM. by Nobel Industrie,
acrylic powders such as those marketed under the name of
Polytrap.RTM. by Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and
silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls.RTM. from Toshiba, for
example), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and
hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica
Beads.RTM. from MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal
soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8-22 carbon
atoms, and in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, for example zinc,
magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium
myristate.
[0440] A compound capable of swelling with heat and notably
thermo-expansible particles such as non-expansed microspheres of
vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methylmethacrylate copolymer or
acrylonitrile homopolymer copolymer may also be used, such as for
example those marketed under references Expancel.RTM. 820 DU 40 and
Expancel.RTM.007WU by AKZO NOBEL, respectively.
[0441] The fillers may account for 0.1 to 25%, in particular for 1
to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[0442] The coloring agent or the filler may further be present as a
particle paste.
[0443] The composition according to the invention, when it contains
solid particles at room temperature, may be prepared by introducing
them into the composition as a colloidal dispersion also called
particle paste, as described in application WO 02/39961, the
contents of which is incorporated by reference into the present
application.
[0444] By colloidal dispersion or particle paste, is meant in the
sense of the invention a concentrated colloidal dispersion of
particles either coated or not in a continuous medium, stabilized
with a dispersant or optionally without any dispersant. These
particles may be selected from pigments, mothers of pearls, solid
fillers and mixtures thereof. These particles may be of any shape
notably of a spherical or elongated shape, like fibers. They are
insoluble in the medium.
[0445] The dispersant is used for protecting the dispersed
particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. The
dispersant concentration generally used for stabilizing a colloidal
dispersion is from 0.3 to 5 mg/m.sup.2, preferably from 0.5 to 4
mg/m.sup.2, of particle surface. This dispersant may be a
surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them,
bearing one or more functionalities having strong affinity for the
surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may
physically or chemically adhere to the surface of the pigments.
These dispersants further have at least one functional group
compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular,
esters of hydroxyl-12-stearic acid in particular, and of a
C.sub.8-C.sub.20 fatty acid and of a polyol such as glycerol,
diglycerol, such as the stearate of poly(12-hydroxystearic) acid
with a molecular weight of about 750 g/mol are used, such as the
one sold under the name of Solsperse 21 000 by Avecia,
polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the
reference of Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel or further polyhydroxystearic
acid like the one sold under reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema and
mixtures thereof.
[0446] As another dispersant which may be used in the composition
of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium
derivatives of poly-condensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000
sold by Avecia, mixtures of poly dimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene such
as those sold by Dow Corning under references DC2-5185, DC2-5225
C.
[0447] Polydihydroxystearic acid and esters of hydroxy-12-stearic
acid are preferably intended for a hydrocarbon or fluorinated
medium, while mixtures of oxyethylenated/oxypropylenated
dimethylsiloxane are preferably intended for a silicone medium.
[0448] The colloidal dispersion is a suspension of particles of
generally micron size (<10 .mu.m) in a continuous medium. The
volume fraction of particles in a concentrated dispersion is from
20% to 40%, preferably greater than 30%, which corresponds to a
weight content which may range up to 70% depending on the density
of the particles.
[0449] The particles dispersed in the medium may consist of mineral
or organic particles or of their mixtures as those described
hereafter.
[0450] The continuous medium of the paste may be any medium and
contain any solvent or liquid fat and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the liquid medium of the particle paste is one of
the liquid fats or oils, the use of which is desired in the
composition, thereby being part of the liquid fatty phase.
[0451] Advantageously, the particle paste or colloidal dispersion
is a pigment paste containing a colloidal dispersion of colored,
coated or non-coated particles. These colored particles are
pigments, mothers of pearls, or a mixture of pigments and/or mother
of pearls.
[0452] Advantageously, the colloidal dispersion accounts for 0.5 to
30% by weight of the composition, better for 2 to 20% and even
better 2 to 15%.
[0453] The composition of the invention may further comprise any
additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants,
preservatives, fibers, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners,
vitamins, moisturizers, in particular solar filters, coalescence
agents, plasticizers, and mixtures thereof.
[0454] Of course, one skilled in the art will make sure that the
optional complementary additives and/or their amount are selected
in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition
according to the invention are not or substantially not altered by
the contemplated adjunction.
[0455] The compositions according to the invention may be prepared
according to methods known to one skilled in the art.
[0456] The invention will be better understood upon reading the
detailed description which follows of exemplary non-limiting
embodiments thereof, and upon examining the appended drawing,
wherein:
[0457] FIGS. 1 to 3 are block diagrams illustrating exemplary
methods according to the invention,
[0458] FIG. 4 schematically illustrates an exemplary device for
applying the invention,
[0459] FIG. 5 is a top view along V of FIG. 4,
[0460] FIG. 6 illustrates the heating-up of the composition with
the heating device of FIG. 4,
[0461] FIG. 7 illustrates a conditioning and application device
incorporating a heating device,
[0462] FIG. 8 is an axial, schematic and partial section of an
alternative embodiment of the heating device,
[0463] FIG. 9 illustrates in a perspective view another exemplary
embodiment of a conditioning and application device incorporating a
heating device,
[0464] FIG. 10 illustrates the device of FIG. 9 after removing the
closure cap,
[0465] FIG. 11 is a top view of the device of FIG. 10,
[0466] FIG. 12 is a view analogous to FIG. 10, the composition
block having been taken out,
[0467] FIG. 13 illustrates in an elevational view, another
exemplary conditioning and application device integrating a heating
device,
[0468] FIG. 14 schematically illustrates, partly as an axial
sectional view, the heating device of FIG. 13,
[0469] FIG. 15 illustrates the contacting of the product with the
heating device of FIG. 14,
[0470] FIG. 16 schematically illustrates in a perspective view,
another example of conditioning and application device made
according to the invention,
[0471] FIG. 17 is a transverse section along XVII-XVII of FIG.
16,
[0472] FIG. 18 illustrates in an elevational view another exemplary
embodiment of the conditioning and application device,
[0473] FIG. 19 is a schematic and partial sectional view of the
device of FIG. 18, when making up the eyelashes,
[0474] FIGS. 20 and 21 schematically and partly illustrate other
examples of devices for making up eyelashes made according to the
invention,
[0475] FIG. 22 schematically and partly illustrates an exemplary
layout of the heating device relatively to a composition stick,
and
[0476] FIG. 23 illustrates another exemplary device, made according
to the invention.
[0477] In the following, exemplary devices will be described
allowing i.a. the application of methods for cosmetic treatment of
keratinous fibers.
[0478] These methods may include, as illustrated in FIG. 1:
[0479] a) a first step 10 consisting of heating up an application
surface of a solid piece of product by means of an artificial heat
source located on the outside of the piece of product, notably an
application surface of a product stick, in order to bring it to a
temperature above that of a portion of the product mass, away from
the application surface and which remains solid during the
application, and
[0480] b) a second step 20 consisting of applying the thereby
heated-up application surface on a region to be treated in order to
transfer the product.
[0481] In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the method
may include:
[0482] a) a first step 30 consisting of heating an application
member,
[0483] b) a second step 40 consisting of picking up the composition
on a solid piece of composition by means of the thereby heated-up
application member, the application member causing upon contact
with the composition, local melting of the outer surface of the
composition piece, and
[0484] c) a third step 50 consisting of applying the composition on
the keratinous fibers.
[0485] Further alternatively, as illustrated in FIG. 3, the method
may include:
[0486] a) a first step 10 identical with that of the method
described with reference to FIG. 1, and then
[0487] b) a second step 60 consisting of transferring the heated-up
composition onto an application member, and
[0488] c) a third step 70 consisting of applying the composition
thereby transferred on the application member, onto the keratinous
fibers, preferably while the composition is still at a temperature
clearly above room temperature, for example by more than 15.degree.
C.
[0489] The application member on which the composition is
transferred may be a heating member if necessary.
[0490] An application device 100 is illustrated in FIG. 4, which
may be used for applying for example the method described with
reference to FIG. 1.
[0491] This device 100 includes a conditioning and application
device 101 of the product P and a heating device 102, which in the
relevant example is independent of the device 101 and for example
includes a casing 103 provided with an aperture 104 for at least
partly introducing the device 101 in order to heat up the product
P. The latter for example is an eyelash make-up composition, the
formulation of which was described above.
[0492] The device 101 may exist under various forms and defines a
grip surface for the user by which he/she may handle the product P
without any direct contact with fingers.
[0493] The device 101 may also allow the product P to be moved
relatively to the grip surface gradually as the product P is
consumed.
[0494] The product P for example appears within the device 101 in
the form of an elongated stick along an axis X, for example with a
circular cross-section.
[0495] Various mechanisms may be used for causing this relative
displacement and the device 101 for example includes a mechanism
including two portions 105 and 106 which may rotate relatively to
each other, and means by which the relative rotation of the
portions 5 to 6 may be transformed into an axial displacement along
the X axis.
[0496] The stick is for example borne within the aforementioned
mechanism, by a cup not shown, including lugs engaged into two
parts respectively belonging to the portions 105 and 106, one of
which includes longitudinal rectilinear slots and the other one
helical slots, so that a rotation of these two parts is accompanied
by an axial displacement of the cup and of the stick. Examples of
mechanisms which may be suitable, are described in publications
U.S. Pat. No. 6,340,258, U.S. Pat. No. 6,086,276, U.S. Pat. No.
6,371,673, U.S. Pat. No. 5,171,096 and U.S. Pat. No. 7,293,926, the
contents of which are incorporated by reference.
[0497] The conditioning and application device 101 may include
protruding elements, for combing the eyelashes, for example as
teeth 109, which may be positioned for example along a row all
around the stick of product P, as this is seen in FIG. 5.
[0498] The height of the teeth 109 may be comprised between 1 and
10 mm. The teeth 109 may be molded as a single part in plastic
material. The teeth 109 may if necessary be molded as a single part
with the upper portion 106 of the device 101. The teeth 109 may be
fixed relatively to their support.
[0499] The casing 103 houses an electric source or includes a means
for connection to an electric source, for example the mains via a
low voltage transformer.
[0500] The casing 103 may also include starting means 110, such as
for example an on/off switch, as well as one or more indicators 111
and 112 for signaling that it is switched on and/or the end of the
warm-up of the product P.
[0501] The aperture 104 allows the end 115 of the stick to be
brought in proximity to a heating means 120 present in the casing
103, as illustrated in FIG. 6.
[0502] The aperture 104 is for example of a section adapted to the
device 101, so that the engagement of the latter into the casing
brings the end 115 of the stick into a predefined position, at
least along two spatial directions, relatively to the heating means
120.
[0503] The heating device 102 may include any adapted sensor 121
with which placement of the device 101 on the casing and optionally
the positioning of the stick relatively to the heating means 120
may be detected.
[0504] The heating device 102 may include any adapted sensor,
capable of evaluating the distance between the end 115 of the stick
and the heating means 120, in order to only allow starting of the
latter when a predefined distance is observed and/or in order to
adjust the heating power according to the distance between the
heating means and the piece of product.
[0505] The heating means 120 may be a heating system by emission of
infrared radiation towards the end 115 of the stick, for example by
means of a halogen or incandescent lamp or by blowing hot air
towards the end 115.
[0506] The end 115 of the stick may further be heated up by
exposure to radiowave radiation, for example microwaves, focussed
on the end 115 of the stick or by ultrasonic vibrations.
[0507] The heating of the end of the stick may further take place
by conduction, upon contact with a hot surface. In this case, the
heating means includes a heating surface which may be brought to
the adequate temperature by any heating means, for example an
electric resistor.
[0508] Once the end 115 is heated up, for example brought to a
temperature greater than or equal to 45.degree. C., the upper end
115 of the stick may be brought into contact with the eyelashes to
be made up. If necessary, a movement is exerted in order to
displace the product along the eyelashes to their contact.
[0509] In the alternative embodiments of FIGS. 7-9, the heating
device includes a heating means which is integral with the
conditioning and application device 101 and which may include, as
illustrated, a ring-shaped heating member, crossed by the stick.
The heating member is for example of a section greater than or
equal to that of the stick.
[0510] The heating device for example includes a control member 171
on which the user may press in order to switch on operation of the
heating member. The latter for example includes a heating resistor
which may heat up the end of the stick by conduction, convection
and/or radiation.
[0511] In order to use the device illustrated in FIG. 7, the user
brings the end of the stick to the level of the heating member and
switches on the heating by pressing on the control member 171.
[0512] The heating device may include an indicator lamp signaling
to the user that the heating member is operating and/or that the
temperature of use is reached.
[0513] The user may optionally switch off the heating when he/she
notices visually that the end of the stick has changed its aspect
following the rise in temperature, for example has become
bright.
[0514] The user may then bring the surface of the softened product
into contact with the eyelashes.
[0515] In the alternative illustrated in FIG. 8, the stick at its
upper end passes through an aperture 174 with a shrinked section
with respect to the section of the body of the stick.
[0516] Softening of the stick upon contacting the heating member,
may be accompanied, in this example, by deformation of the end of
the stick and allows the product to flow out.
[0517] The shrinked aperture may increase the precision for
applying the product and prevent the stick from being moved forward
relatively to the heating member as long as sufficient softening
has not been achieved.
[0518] In the alternative of FIGS. 9-12, the heating device is
integrated to the conditioning device, for example in proximity to
the upper portion of the conditioning device, bearing the element
109 for combing the eyelashes.
[0519] The conditioning device may include a body 180 which houses
the stick of product P, which for example has, as this may notably
be seen in FIG. 11, a general flattened shape in cross-section.
[0520] The stick of product P may have a transverse kidney-shaped
section of curvilinear major axis C, in order to follow the natural
curvature of the fringe of the eyelashes.
[0521] The product may be borne by a supporting part which may be
displaced to the body 180 by a cursor 181 maneuvered by the user,
which may for example slide between two longitudinal grooves
182.
[0522] The device may include a base 185 which for example houses
the electric source and supports an on/off switch 186 and if
necessary one or more indicators 187 relating to the operation of
the device.
[0523] FIG. 13 illustrates an alternative embodiment of the device
100 wherein the heating device 102 is integrated into a cap 190
with which the end 115 of the stick of product P may be heated up
prior to its application on the keratinous materials.
[0524] The heating device 102 may house a non-apparent electric
source, for example consisting of one or more battery cells or
batteries, and a heating member for example including an electric
resistor powered by the electric source.
Examples of heating members which are suitable, are disclosed US
2007/0286665 A1, for example.
[0525] The heating member is positioned so as to raise the
temperature of a heating surface 200 which, in the example of FIGS.
13-15, may come into contact with the stick, as illustrated in FIG.
15, in order to raise the temperature of distal end 115 of the
latter.
[0526] The heating device 102 may include a switch 110 allowing the
user to start or stop the heating device as well as an indicator
201 of operation, for example an indicator lamp which is lit when
the heating surface is being heated. The heating device 102 may
optionally include any means for controlling the temperature at the
surface 200, so that the latter does not exceed a predefined
value.
[0527] The heating device 102 may optionally comprise any means for
controlling the temperature of the heating surface 200, so that the
latter does not exceed a predefined value.
[0528] When the heating surface is inaccessible to the user, a
relatively high heating temperature but compatible with the product
may be accepted. On the other hand, when the heated surface may be
contacted by the user, a temperature not exceeding 65.degree. C. is
preferred.
[0529] The heating device 102 may also, if necessary, include a
timer so that the piece of product can only be heated up for a
predefined time, in order to avoid premature wearing out of the
electric power source and/or avoid bringing the whole of the piece
of product to an excessive temperature.
[0530] In certain exemplary embodiments, the heating device 102 may
include adapted sensor allowing the operation of the heating to be
initiated only in the case of effective contact of the heating
surface with the piece of the product.
[0531] For example, the heating device 102 may include a contact
pressure sensor between the heating surface 200 and the stick and
only allow heating of the heating surface 20 in the case of proven
contact with the stick.
[0532] The heating surface 200 may for example be defined by a
contact part 210, for example axially mobile along the X axis
relatively to the body 205 of the heating device against the return
action of an elastic return member 206, such as for example a
spring housed inside the contact part 210, as illustrated in FIG.
15.
[0533] In this FIG. 15, a heating device is illustrated, including
an electric resistor 215 flattened down in the bottom of the
contact part 210, in order to be as close as possible to the
heating surface 200.
[0534] The contact part 210 is for example made in a good
heat-conductive metal, with small wall thickness, so as to have low
thermal inertia, for example aluminium.
[0535] In this example like in the previous ones, the stick may
have a transverse cross-section comprised between 0.1 and 5
cm.sup.2.
[0536] The device may be used by first switching on the heating
device 102 and then waiting for the required time so that the end
115 of the stick which defines the application surface is raised to
the sought temperature.
[0537] Setting of the temperature may for example be signaled by
the indicator 201, which may for example pass from a continuous
lit-up state signaling the starting of the device to a blinking
lit-up state or may change color when the sought temperature is
reached.
[0538] Once the end of the stick is heated up, the device 101 may
be separated from the cap 190 and the user may apply the product on
the eyelashes. Softening of the product at the end 115 of the stick
ensures comfortable application, good transfer on the eyelashes
with a thick deposit.
[0539] The body of the stick is at room temperature or a at a
slightly higher temperature, but not sufficient for compromising
the mechanical strength required for withstanding the mechanical
forces generated by the making of the device 101 and the
application.
[0540] The temperature difference between the application surface
and the body of the stick, notably opposite to the application
surface, for example is of at least 20.degree. C., or even at least
30.degree. C., when the stick has its initial length, upon first
use.
[0541] The device 100 illustrated in FIG. 16 combines a
conditioning and application device 101 and a heating device 102.
The product appears for example as a stick, which may be solid or
hollow and supported by a core in a different material, for example
a thermoplastic material.
[0542] In the example of FIG. 16, the application surface is
defined by the side surface 310 of the product stick, this side
surface being for example a portion of an axisymmetrical cylinder.
The device 100 may include a handle 312 which may for example house
an electric source formed by one or more battery cells or
batteries. The handle is extended with a wall 314 which may bear or
define elements 109 for combing the eyelashes, as seen in FIG.
16.
[0543] The device 100 may include, opposite to the handle 312, a
thumb wheel 316 which may for example allow the user to rotate the
product relatively to the heating device 102.
[0544] The latter is for example positioned, as this is seen in
FIG. 17, on an internal face of the wall 314 and for example
includes one or more resistive wires 318. In an exemplary
embodiment, the wall 314 may rotate relatively to the handle, which
may for example allow a portion covered by the wall 314 to be
heated up and then once the sought temperature is reached, this
portion may be exposed by rotating the wall 314 so as to be able to
use it for combing keratinous fibers.
[0545] In one alternative, rotation of the thumbed wheel 316 causes
displacement of the piece of product P, the wall 314 being fixed
relatively to the handle 312.
[0546] In another non-illustrated alternative, the product stick
extends in the extension of the handle with its longitudinal axis
coinciding with that of the handle and the side surface of the
product stick is heated up by means of the heating device housed in
a closure cap which will be fixed onto the handle and will cover
the product stick.
[0547] In certain exemplary embodiments, notably as described
above, the heated-up surface of the piece of product may be moved
on the eyelashes by the user, for example moving it towards the tip
of the eyelashes. The eyelashes may not be pressed against the
product.
[0548] In the alternative embodiment illustrate in FIGS. 18 and 19,
the eyelashes H may be nipped between the piece of product P on the
one hand and the heating device on the other hand. The eyelashes
may be engaged in between the teeth 109 or another element for
combing eyelashes while they are held by the heated device 102
against the piece of product, as illustrated in FIG. 19.
[0549] In the exemplary embodiment of FIG. 18, the heating device
102 may be moved away from the piece of product or closer to it,
the device being for example mounted on rods 330 which may slide in
the device 101, for example against the return action of an elastic
member such as a spring. A cursor 332 may allow displacement of the
piece of product P within the device 101 in order to have it move
up gradually during its wear. The hot surface of the heating device
102 is borne by a part 334 which is mounted on the rod 330 and
which may be brought closer to the piece of product when the user
presses thereon.
[0550] In order to use the device of FIG. 18, the user may for
example press on the part 334 so as to bring the hot surface 336 of
the heating device 102 into contact with the end face of the piece
of product P, and then once the product has sufficiently softened
at the surface, to move the part 334 away in order to allow
engagement of the eyelashes between this part and the piece of
product and the part 334 may then again be brought closer to the
piece of product in order to press the eyelashes against the piece
of product, as illustrated in FIG. 19.
[0551] In the alternative of FIG. 20, the piece of product appears
as a sleeve borne by a core 340 which may be rotary, in order to
create a relative movement between the eyelashes and the surface of
the product without having the user displace the product.
[0552] The eyelashes H may be flattened against the product by a
press roll 350 which may include a heating device or be heated up
by a heating device. The product P on the one hand and the press
roll on the other hand may for example be borne by two branches of
a claw, which allows them to be moved away from each other or
brought closer to each other at will.
[0553] An alternative embodiment is illustrated in FIG. 21, wherein
the product is not directly applied by contact of the eyelashes H
on the piece of product but via a transfer member 360. In this
example, the transfer member is for example heated to a sufficient
temperature for softening the product and picking up some of it,
and it may transfer the product on the eyelashes for example by
rotating both when contacting the product and the eyelashes, as
illustrated in FIG. 21. The piece of product P may optionally be
flattened against the transfer member 360 by a spring 361, which
makes it possible to guarantee a contact with the product and with
the transfer member in spite of the wear of the product. In one
alternative, the product is heated at its contact surface with the
transfer member 360, the latter not being heated.
[0554] In the alternative of FIG. 22, the fact that the product may
appear as a block of product, the side surface 370 of which is used
for application on the eyelashes, is illustrated and the heating
device 102 may include a resistive element 371 wound around the
stick of product in order to heat up its side surface.
[0555] In FIG. 23, the possibility for the heating device 102 of
including one or more application elements 372, for example teeth,
hair or ribs, is illustrated. The application elements allow the
eyelashes to be combed. A hot source is for example is positioned
under these application elements in order to sufficiently raise
their temperature and during the contact of the application member
373 of the heat device 102 with the piece of the product P,
allowing a certain amount of it to be picked up and the eyelashes
may then be made up with it. The application member 312 is for
example connected through a rod 374 to a handle 375 which may house
an electric source formed by one or more battery cells or
batteries.
[0556] In another alternative, the device is similar to the one of
FIG. 16, the product being set into rotation relatively to the
handle by a mechanical system, a portion of its side surface
thereby passing automatically from a position where it is located
facing the heating device and may be heated by the latter, to a
position away from the heating device, for example diametrically
opposite to where it may contact the eyelashes. A means for
selecting the direction of rotation may be provided in order to
allow a movement of rotation from the middle towards the tip of the
eyelashes.
PROPOSED EXAMPLE
[0557] The example which follows is presented as an illustration
and is not a limitation to the invention. Unless indicated
otherwise, the proportions are by mass.
Example 1
TABLE-US-00001 [0558] black iron oxide 7.30% MQ resin.sup.(1) 25.0%
bentone gel in isododecane (Bentone Gel ISD V from 6% Elementis)
isododecane 33.85% Nylon-611/Dimethicone copolymer.sup.(2) 14.00%
polyethylene wax.sup.(3) 9.20% mixture of fatty alcohols and
hydrocarbons (INCI 2.25% name: C30-50 alcohols).sup.(4) silica
microspheres.sup.(5) 1% isopropyl alcohol 1.4%
.sup.(1)Trimethylsiloxysilicate SR1000 from Momentive Performance
Materials .sup.(2)Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant from Dow Corning
.sup.(3)Performalene 500-L Polyethylene from New Phase Technologies
.sup.(4)Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies
.sup.(5)Sunsphere H 51 from AGC SI-TECH
[0559] Operating Procedure:
[0560] The MQ resin is dispersed in isododecane, and then at
105.degree. C., the Nylon-611/Dimethicone copolymer is added, and
then the waxes, isopropyl alcohol, silica, pigments and bentone
gel.
[0561] The stick is hot-cast in a mold or directly in a packaging
article and then sudden cooling is carried out in the freezer.
[0562] The hardness of the stick has the value of 86 g (i.e. 67,170
Nm.sup.-2) at 20.degree. C. and 22 g (i.e. 17,180 Nm.sup.-2) at
60-70.degree. C. (heating temperature of the surface of the
product).
[0563] The composition of Example 1 is evaluated from a make-up
point of view in the following way: [0564] a specimen of false
eyelashes (A) is made up with the composition of Example 1 at room
temperature (23.degree. C.), by accomplishing 10 passages of the
stick over the eyelashes; [0565] another specimen of false
eyelashes (B) is made up with the composition of Example 1 heated
beforehand at the surface to 73.degree. C., and after one passage
of the stick on the eyelashes.
[0566] It is noticed that the specimen (B) comprises eyelashes
which are much more loaded with composition than the specimen
(A).
Example 2
TABLE-US-00002 [0567] Black iron oxyde 7.30% resin MQ.sup.(1) 25.0%
Bentone gel in isododecane (Bentone Gel ISD V from 6% Elementis)
Mixture of undecane:tridecane (76:24) such as qsp 100% made in
accordance with example 1 of WO2008/155059 Nylon-611/Dimethicone
copolymer.sup.(2) 14.00% polyethylene wax.sup.(3) 9.20% Mixture of
fatty alcohols and hydrocarbons (INCI: 2.25% C30-50
alcohols).sup.(4) Silica beads.sup.(5) 1% isopropyl alcohol 1.4%
.sup.(1)Trimethylsiloxysilicate SR1000 from Momentive Performance
Materials .sup.(2)Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant from Dow Corning
.sup.(3)Performalene 500-L Polyethylene from New Phase Technologies
.sup.(4)Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies
.sup.(5)Sunsphere H 51 from AGC SI-TECH
[0568] Operating Mode:
[0569] The MQ resin is dispersed in isododecane, and then at
105.degree. C., the Nylon-611/Dimethicone copolymer is added, and
then the waxes, isopropyl alcohol, silica, pigments and bentone
gel.
The stick is hot-cast in a mold or directly in a packaging article
and then sudden cooling is carried out in the freezer.
[0570] The hardness value of the stick measured with the protocol
given above (with a detection threshold of 0.005 N) is 96 g (i.e.
74 942 Nm.sup.-2) at 20.degree. C. (product +measuring mobile at
20.degree. C. and of 1 g at surface of the product at 60-70.degree.
C. (measuring mobile at 30.degree. C.).
[0571] The method according to the invention therefore allows a
greater deposit to be obtained on the eyelashes.
[0572] The invention is not limited to the described example.
[0573] The piece of product may for example be made with still
other shapes.
[0574] The expression including one or comprising oneshould be
understood as a synonym of including at least one or comprising at
least one.
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