U.S. patent application number 12/624493 was filed with the patent office on 2011-05-26 for stretchable fabric.
This patent application is currently assigned to J. B. MARTIN COMPANY, INC.. Invention is credited to Yaakov Shteiyer.
Application Number | 20110120588 12/624493 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 44061209 |
Filed Date | 2011-05-26 |
United States Patent
Application |
20110120588 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Shteiyer; Yaakov |
May 26, 2011 |
STRETCHABLE FABRIC
Abstract
First warp yarns and second warp yarns are each interwoven with
weft yarns to produce a one-layer, lightweight, stretchable fabric.
The first warp yarns include stretchable yarns that are activatable
to achieve a contracted state, and the second warp yarns include
non-stretchable yarns. The first warp yarns may include a
stretchable core yarn with non-stretchable wrap yarn wrapped around
the stretchable core yarn. The first warp yarns may be in an
alternating arrangement with the second warp yarns. When the yarns
are woven together, the first warp yarns are in an extended state
and the second warp yarns are in an unbunched state. The fabric
then undergoes a finishing procedure during which the first warp
yarns are activated to achieve a contracted state. The second warp
yarns thus achieve a bunched state, and the resulting fabric is
stretchable in the warp direction.
Inventors: |
Shteiyer; Yaakov; (West
Orange, NJ) |
Assignee: |
J. B. MARTIN COMPANY, INC.
|
Family ID: |
44061209 |
Appl. No.: |
12/624493 |
Filed: |
November 24, 2009 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
139/36 ;
139/420R |
Current CPC
Class: |
D03D 15/47 20210101;
D03D 1/0041 20130101; D03D 15/56 20210101; D03D 15/513
20210101 |
Class at
Publication: |
139/36 ;
139/420.R |
International
Class: |
D03C 13/00 20060101
D03C013/00; D03D 15/00 20060101 D03D015/00 |
Claims
1. A fabric comprising: a plurality of weft yarns; a plurality of
first warp yarns interwoven with the weft yarns, wherein the first
warp yarns comprise stretchable yarns and are activatable to
achieve a contracted state; and a plurality of second warp yarns
interwoven with the weft yarns, wherein the second warp yarns
comprise non-stretchable yarns; wherein the fabric is stretchable
in a warp direction upon activation of at least some of the
plurality of first warp yarns.
2. The fabric of claim 1, wherein at least some of the plurality of
second warp yarns achieve a bunched state upon activation of the
first warp yarns.
3. The fabric of claim 1, wherein at least some of the first warp
yarns comprise a stretchable core yarn and a non-stretchable wrap
yarn wrapped around the stretchable core yarn.
4. The fabric of claim 3, wherein the stretchable core yarn
comprises Lycra and the non-stretchable wrap yarn comprises
nylon.
5. The fabric of claim 3, wherein the stretchable core yarn is
stretchable to a length between approximately 2 and 7 times the
respective yarn's original length under tension and is capable of
returning to approximately the respective yarn's original length
when no longer under tension, and wherein the non-stretchable wrap
yarn is incapable of being stretched to a length greater than
approximately 2 times the respective yarn's original length under
tension or is plastically deformed when stretched to a length
greater than approximately 2 times the respective yarn's original
length.
6. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the first warp yarns comprise
Lycra and the second warp yarns comprise nylon.
7. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the first warp yarns float at
least two of the plurality of weft yarns.
8. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the second warp yarns float at
least two of the plurality of weft yarns.
9. The fabric of claim 1, wherein the weft yarns are
fire-resistant.
10. The fabric of claim 1, wherein at least some of the first warp
yarns comprise stretchable yarns that are stretchable to a length
between approximately 2 and 7 times the respective yarn's original
length under tension and are capable of returning to approximately
the respective yarn's original length when no longer under tension,
and wherein at least some of the second warp yarns comprise
non-stretchable yarns that are incapable of being stretched to a
length greater than approximately 2 times the respective yarn's
original length under tension or are plastically deformed when
stretched to a length greater than approximately 2 times the
respective yarn's original length.
11. A fabric comprising: a plurality of weft yarns; a plurality of
first warp yarns interwoven with the weft yarns, wherein the first
warp yarns are activatable to achieve a contracted state; and a
plurality of second warp yarns interwoven with the weft yarns;
wherein at least some of the plurality of second warp yarns achieve
a bunched state upon activation of the first warp yarns.
12. The fabric of claim 11, wherein the plurality of first warp
yarns are in an alternating arrangement with the plurality of
second warp yarns.
13. The fabric of claim 11, wherein at least some of the plurality
of second warp yarns comprise non-stretchable yarns.
14. The fabric of claim 11, wherein at least some of the first warp
yarns comprise a stretchable core yarn and a non-stretchable wrap
yarn wrapped around the stretchable core yarn.
15. The fabric of claim 14, wherein the stretchable core yarn
comprises Lycra and the non-stretchable wrap yarn comprises
nylon.
16. The fabric of claim 14, wherein the non-stretchable wrap yarn
is a first non-stretchable wrap yarn, and wherein at least some of
the first warp yarns further comprise a second non-stretchable wrap
yarn, wherein the first non-stretchable wrap yarn is wrapped about
the stretchable core yarn in a first direction and the second
non-stretchable wrap yarn is wrapped about the stretchable core
yarn in a second direction.
17. The fabric of claim 11, wherein the fabric comprises at least
one of an anti-microbial and a water-resistant coating.
18. The fabric of claim 11, wherein the first warp yarns comprise
Lycra and the second warp yarns comprise nylon.
19. The fabric of claim 11, wherein the weft yarns are
fire-resistant.
20. A method of weaving a fabric comprising: providing a plurality
of weft yarns; providing a plurality of first warp yarns in an
extended state; providing a plurality of second warp yarns;
interweaving the first warp yarns with the weft yarns; interweaving
the second warp yarns with the weft yarns; and activating the first
warp yarns to achieve a contracted state of at least some of the
first warp yarns, wherein the fabric is stretchable in a warp
direction upon activation of at least some of the plurality of the
first warp yarns.
21. The method of claim 20, wherein providing the plurality of
second warp yarns comprises providing the second warp yarns in an
unbunched state, and wherein activating the first warp yarns causes
at least some of the second warp yarns to move from the unbunched
state to a bunched state.
22. The method of claim 20, wherein at least some of the first warp
yarns comprise a stretchable core yarn and a non-stretchable wrap
yarn wrapped around the stretchable core yarn.
23. The method of claim 20, wherein interweaving the first and
second warp yarns with the weft yarns comprises alternately weaving
the first and second warp yarns.
24. The method of claim 20 further comprising chemically treating
the fabric to impart anti-microbial or water-resistant
characteristics to the fabric.
25. The method of claim 20, wherein interweaving the first warp
yarns with the weft yarns comprises floating at least two of the
plurality of weft yarns, and wherein interweaving the second warp
yarns with the weft yarns comprises floating at least two of the
plurality of weft yarns.
26. The method of claim 20, wherein providing a plurality of first
warp yarns in an extended state comprises applying tension to the
first warp yarns.
27. A fabric comprising: a plurality of weft yarns; a plurality of
first warp yarns interwoven with the weft yarns, wherein the first
warp yarns are in a contracted state, the first warp yarns being
stretchable between the contracted state and an extended state; and
a plurality of second warp yarns interwoven with the weft yarns,
wherein the second warp yarns are in a bunched state, wherein, when
the fabric is stretched in the warp direction, the plurality of
first warp yarns is moved from the contracted state to the extended
state and the plurality of second warp yarns is moved from the
bunched state to an unbunched state.
28. The fabric of claim 27, wherein the amount of stretch of the
fabric is limited by a length of the second warp yarns in their
respective unbunched states.
29. The fabric of claim 27, wherein at least some of the first warp
yarns comprise a stretchable core yarn and a non-stretchable wrap
yarn wrapped around the stretchable core yarn.
30. The fabric of claim 29, wherein the stretchable core yarn
comprises Lycra and the non-stretchable wrap yarn comprises
nylon.
31. The fabric of claim 29, wherein the non-stretchable wrap yarn
is a first non-stretchable wrap yarn, and wherein at least some of
the first warp yarns further comprise a second non-stretchable wrap
yarn, wherein the first non-stretchable wrap yarn is wrapped about
the stretchable core yarn in a first direction and the second
non-stretchable wrap yarn is wrapped about the stretchable core
yarn in a second direction.
32. A garment, at least a portion of the garment comprising a
fabric, wherein the fabric comprises: a plurality of weft yarns; a
plurality of first warp yarns interwoven with the weft yarns,
wherein the first warp yarns are in a contracted state and are
stretchable between the contracted state and an extended state; and
a plurality of second warp yarns interwoven with the weft yarns,
wherein the second warp yarns are in a bunched state, wherein, when
the fabric is stretched in the warp direction, the first warp yarns
are moved from the contracted state to the extended state and the
second warp yarns are moved from the bunched state to an unbunched
state.
33. The garment of claim 32, wherein at least some of the first
warp yarns comprise a stretchable core yarn and a non-stretchable
wrap yarn wrapped around the stretchable core yarn.
34. The garment of claim 33, wherein the stretchable core yarn
comprises Lycra and the non-stretchable wrap yarn comprises
nylon.
35. The garment of claim 33, wherein the non-stretchable wrap yarn
is a first non-stretchable wrap yarn, and wherein at least some of
the first warp yarns further comprise a second non-stretchable wrap
yarn, wherein the first non-stretchable wrap yarn is wrapped about
the stretchable core yarn in a first direction and the second
non-stretchable wrap yarn is wrapped about the stretchable core
yarn in a second direction.
Description
BACKGROUND
[0001] As textile technology advances, consumers seek fabrics and
clothing that are functional, comfortable, and affordable. For
example, police officers, military personnel, and other individuals
may desire clothing that is both fire resistant, to guard against
exposure to high heat and flames, and stretchable to allow the
wearer to perform his/her required activities with relative ease
and comfort. A fabric that satisfies these requirements may thus
need to include fabrics that are fire resistant, strong, soft,
stretchable, and/or flexible.
[0002] Often times, different parts of the same garment are
subjected to different forces and must withstand different
performance conditions, depending on the proximity to a moving body
part. For example, fabric located near a wearer's joint, such as an
elbow or a knee, may often experience greater stresses due to the
movement of the wearer's joint as the wearer conducts work or
recreational activities as compared to other parts of the same
garment in other areas, such as the upper arm.
[0003] Applicant has discovered then that it would be desirable to
provide a fabric that can be used to fashion clothes or parts of
clothing that are fire resistant, durable, abrasion resistant,
stretchable, comfortable, reliable, and/or attractive. As described
in greater detail below, a variety of challenges were identified
and overcome through Applicant's efforts to invent and develop such
a fabric.
BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0004] Systems and methods are therefore provided for forming a
fabric that incorporates stretchable and non-stretchable yarns into
a unitary, one-layer, lightweight, stretchable fabric.
[0005] In some embodiments, a fabric is provided that includes a
plurality of weft yarns, a plurality of first warp yarns interwoven
with the weft yarns, and a plurality of second warp yarns
interwoven with the weft yarns. The first warp yarns comprise
stretchable yarns and are activatable to achieve a contracted
state, and the second warp yarns comprise non-stretchable yarns.
The fabric is stretchable in a warp direction upon activation of at
least some of the plurality of first warp yarns. At least some of
the plurality of second warp yarns may achieve a bunched state upon
activation of the first warp yarns. The first warp yarns may
comprise Lycra, and the second warp yarns may comprise nylon.
[0006] In some cases, at least some of the first warp yarns
comprise a stretchable core yarn and a non-stretchable wrap yarn
wrapped around the stretchable core yarn. The stretchable core yarn
may comprise Lycra, and the non-stretchable wrap yarn may comprise
nylon. In some instances, the stretchable core yarn is stretchable
to a length between approximately 2 and 7 times the respective
yarn's original length under tension and is capable of returning to
approximately its original length when no longer under tension.
Similarly, the non-stretchable wrap yarn may be incapable of being
stretched to a length greater than approximately 2 times the
respective yarn's original length under tension or may be
plastically deformed when stretched to a length greater than
approximately 2 times the respective yarn's original length.
[0007] The first warp yarns may float at least two of the plurality
of weft yarns. Likewise, the second warp yarns may float at least
two of the plurality of weft yarns. Furthermore, the weft yarns may
be fire-resistant. At least some of the first warp yarns may
comprise stretchable yarns that are stretchable to a length between
approximately 2 and 7 times the respective yarn's original length
under tension and are capable of returning to approximately its
original length when no longer under tension, and at least some of
the second warp yarns may comprise non-stretchable yarns that are
incapable of being stretched to a length greater than approximately
2 times the respective yarn's original length under tension or are
plastically deformed when stretched to a length greater than
approximately 2 times the respective yarn's original length.
[0008] In other embodiments, a fabric is provided comprising a
plurality of weft yarns, a plurality of first warp yarns interwoven
with the weft yarns, and a plurality of second warp yarns
interwoven with the weft yarns. The first warp yarns are
activatable to achieve a contracted state, and at least some of the
plurality of second warp yarns achieve a bunched state upon
activation of the first warp yarns. The plurality of first warp
yarns may be in an alternating arrangement with the plurality of
second warp yarns. Furthermore, at least some of the second warp
yarns may comprise non-stretchable yarns.
[0009] In some cases, at least some of the first warp yarns
comprise a stretchable core yarn and a non-stretchable wrap yarn
wrapped around the stretchable core yarn. The stretchable core yarn
may comprise Lycra, and the non-stretchable wrap yarn may comprise
nylon. The non-stretchable wrap yarn may be a first non-stretchable
wrap yarn, and at least some of the first warp yarns may further
comprise a second non-stretchable wrap yarn. The first
non-stretchable wrap yarn may be wrapped about the stretchable core
yarn in a first direction and the second non-stretchable wrap yarn
may be wrapped about the stretchable core yarn in a second
direction.
[0010] The fabric may comprise at least one of an anti-microbial
and a water-resistant coating. In some instances, the first warp
yarns may comprise Lycra and the second warp yarns may comprise
nylon. Furthermore, the weft yarns may be fire-resistant.
[0011] In still other embodiments, a method of weaving a fabric is
provided, in which a plurality of weft yarns, a plurality of first
warp yarns in an extended state, and a plurality of second warp
yarns are provided. The first warp yarns are interwoven with the
weft yarns, and the second warp yarns are interwoven with the weft
yarns. The first warp yarns are activated to achieve a contracted
state of at least some of the first warp yarns. As a result, the
fabric is stretchable in a warp direction upon activation of at
least some of the plurality of the first warp yarns. In some cases,
the second warp yarns are provided in an unbunched state, and
activating the first warp yarns causes at least some of the second
warp yarns to move from the unbunched state to a bunched state.
[0012] At least some of the first warp yarns may comprise a
stretchable core yarn and a non-stretchable wrap yarn wrapped
around the stretchable core yarn. Also, interweaving the first and
second warp yarns with the weft yarns may comprise alternately
weaving the first and second warp yarns. Furthermore, the fabric
may be chemically treated to impart anti-microbial or
water-resistant characteristics to the fabric.
[0013] In some cases, interweaving the first warp yarns with the
weft yarns comprises floating at least two of the plurality of weft
yarns, and interweaving the second warp yarns with the weft yarns
comprises floating at least two of the plurality of weft yarns. In
addition, providing the plurality of first warp yarns in an
extended state may comprise applying tension to the first warp
yarns.
[0014] In still other embodiments, a fabric is provided that
includes a plurality of weft yarns, a plurality of first warp yarns
interwoven with the weft yarns, and a plurality of second warp
yarns interwoven with the weft yarns. The first warp yarns are in a
contracted state and are stretchable between the contracted state
and an extended state. Furthermore, the second warp yarns are in a
bunched state. Thus, when the fabric is stretched in the warp
direction, the plurality of first warp yarns is moved from the
contracted state to the extended state, and the plurality of second
warp yarns is moved from the bunched state to an unbunched
state.
[0015] The amount of stretch of the fabric may be limited by a
length of the second warp yarns in their respective unbunched
states. Also, at least some of the first warp yarns may comprise a
stretchable core yarn and a non-stretchable wrap yarn wrapped
around the stretchable core yarn. The stretchable core yarn may
comprise Lycra, and the non-stretchable wrap yarn may comprise
nylon. In some cases, the non-stretchable wrap yarn is a first
non-stretchable wrap yarn, and at least some of the first warp
yarns further comprise a second non-stretchable wrap yarn. Thus,
the first non-stretchable wrap yarn may be wrapped about the
stretchable core yarn in a first direction, and the second
non-stretchable wrap yarn may be wrapped about the stretchable core
yarn in a second direction.
[0016] In other embodiments, a garment is provided, where at least
a portion of the garment comprises a fabric. The fabric, in turn,
comprises a plurality of weft yarns, a plurality of first warp
yarns interwoven with the weft yarns, and a plurality of second
warp yarns interwoven with the weft yarns. The first warp yarns are
in a contracted state and are stretchable between the contracted
state and an extended state, and the second warp yarns are in a
bunched state. When the fabric is stretched in the warp direction,
the first warp yarns are moved from the contracted state to the
extended state, and the second warp yarns are moved from the
bunched state to an unbunched state.
[0017] In some cases, at least some of the first warp yarns
comprise a stretchable core yarn and a non-stretchable wrap yarn
wrapped around the stretchable core yarn. The stretchable core yarn
may comprise Lycra, and the non-stretchable wrap yarn may comprise
nylon. Furthermore, the non-stretchable wrap yarn may be a first
non-stretchable wrap yarn, and at least some of the first warp
yarns may further comprise a second non-stretchable wrap yarn.
Thus, the first non-stretchable wrap yarn may be wrapped about the
stretchable core yarn in a first direction, and the second
non-stretchable wrap yarn may be wrapped about the stretchable core
yarn in a second direction.
[0018] Embodiments of the invention in which first warp yarns and
second warp yarns are each interwoven with weft yarns to produce a
one-layer, lightweight, stretchable fabric are described in greater
detail below.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE SEVERAL VIEWS OF THE DRAWING(S)
[0019] Reference will now be made to the accompanying drawings,
which are not necessarily drawn to scale, and wherein:
[0020] FIG. 1A depicts a first surface of a fabric structured in
accordance with one exemplary embodiment of the present
invention;
[0021] FIG. 1B is a schematic representation of the fabric of FIG.
1A;
[0022] FIG. 2A depicts a second surface of the fabric of FIG.
1A;
[0023] FIG. 2B is a schematic representation of the fabric of FIG.
2A;
[0024] FIG. 3A is a schematic representation of a cross-sectional
view taken along a first warp yarn of the fabric along line 3A-3A
of FIG. 1B;
[0025] FIG. 3B is a schematic representation of a cross-sectional
view taken along a second warp yarn of the fabric along line 3B-3B
of FIG. 1B;
[0026] FIG. 4 is a schematic representation of a cross-sectional
view taken along a weft yarn of the fabric along line 4-4 of FIG.
1B;
[0027] FIG. 5A is a schematic representation of a first warp yarn
with a stretchable core and a non-stretchable wrap yarn in a
relaxed position structured in accordance with one exemplary
embodiment of the present invention;
[0028] FIG. 5B is a schematic representation of the first warp yarn
of FIG. 5A under tension;
[0029] FIG. 6A is a schematic representation of a warpwise
cross-section of the fabric of FIG. 1B showing the first warp yarn
in a contracted state and the second warp yarn in a bunched state
in accordance with one exemplary embodiment of the present
invention;
[0030] FIG. 6B is a schematic representation of the cross-section
of FIG. 6A showing the first warp yarn in an extended state and the
second warp yarn in an unbunched state in accordance with one
exemplary embodiment of the present invention;
[0031] FIG. 7 illustrates clothing made from fabric woven in
accordance with one exemplary embodiment of the present
invention;
[0032] FIG. 8 is a schematic representation of a loom for weaving
fabrics in accordance with one exemplary embodiment of the present
invention; and
[0033] FIG. 9 is a schematic representation of a first warp yarn
with a stretchable core and two non-stretchable wrap yarns in
accordance with one exemplary embodiment of the present
invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0034] Embodiments of the present invention now will be described
more fully hereinafter with reference to the accompanying drawings,
in which some, but not all, embodiments of the invention are shown.
Indeed, embodiments of the invention may be in many different forms
and should not be construed as limited to the embodiments set forth
herein; rather, these embodiments are provided so that this
disclosure will satisfy applicable legal requirements. Like
reference numerals refer to like elements throughout.
[0035] Various embodiments of the present invention are directed to
a fabric that is structured to use and combine multiple yarns each
selected to provide the fabric with specific qualities,
characteristics, and/or functions. For example, fabrics structured
in accordance with the present invention may include yarns selected
to impart fire resistance, strength, durability, and/or abrasion
resistance to the fabric. Other yarns may be selected to impart
comfort, breatheability, drapeability, and/or stretchability to the
fabric. Still other yarns may be selected to improve the fabric's
aesthetic appearance.
[0036] In developing fabrics comprised of multiple yarns as
discussed above, Applicant discovered that by using a first yarn
selected to provide a first quality (e.g., fire resistance),
Applicant may inherently be undermining another desired quality
(e.g., stretchability or aesthetic appeal). For example, by using
modeacrylic fibers for their fire resistance qualities, Applicant
may necessarily be introducing a yarn to the fabric that has poor
stretchability. As discussed in greater detail below, various
embodiments of the present invention are structured to limit such
counter-productive effects.
[0037] The specification refers for illustration purposes to
various textile related terms. For example, the terms "warp" and
"weft" are used when describing woven fabrics structured in
accordance with various embodiments of the present invention. The
term "warp" refers to fibers or yarns that run in the lengthwise or
machine direction of the fabric. The term "weft" refers to the fill
fibers or yarns that run in a crosswise direction that is
transverse to the machine direction of the fabric. Individual weft
yarns may be referred to herein as "picks." A collection of warp
yarns having the same weave structure or configuration is referred
to herein as a warp system. As illustrated and described below with
reference to the figures, warp yarns may be classified as having
the same weave structure (and thus part of the same warp system) in
situations where the weave structure is shifted with respect to
adjacent yarns. The term "yarn" is used throughout the
specification to denote a component of the fabric that is
interwoven with other components to form the fabric. For example,
yarns or threads can include monofilament fibers, multifilament
fibers, threads, yarns, staple fibers, composite fibers, and so
on.
[0038] FIGS. 1A, 1B, 2A, and 2B depict a woven fabric 10 according
to an exemplary embodiment, with FIGS. 1A and 1B depicting a first
surface 20 and FIGS. 2A and 2B depicting a second surface 25. For
purposes of explanation, reference axes are provided on FIGS. 1A,
1B, 2A, and 2B, with the warp yarns extending along the x-axis and
the weft yarns extending along the y-axis. The z-axis in FIGS. 1A,
1B, 2A, and 2B extends out of the page. FIGS. 3A and 3B illustrate
a warpwise cross-section of the fabric 10 taken along lines 3A-3A
and 3B-3B, respectively, of FIG. 1B, or in the x-z plane, and FIG.
4 illustrates a weftwise cross-section of the fabric taken along
line 4-4 of FIG. 1B. Thus, in FIGS. 3A and 3B the y-axis extends
into the page, and in FIG. 4 the x-axis extends out of the
page.
[0039] Turning to FIG. 1B, in an exemplary embodiment, the depicted
woven portion of fabric 10 includes a plurality weft yarns 30 and
two warp systems 40, 45. As described in greater detail below, the
first warp yarns 40 may be interwoven with the weft yarns 30, and
the second warp yarns 45 may be interwoven with the weft yarns 30
in accordance with embodiments of the present invention to produce
a one-layer fabric that is stretchable in a warp direction (i.e.,
along the x-axis) upon activation of at least some of the plurality
of first warp yarns. Thus, Applicant has discovered that in forming
a fabric having the structure described below, the first and second
warp yarns 40, 45 can be selected and configured with respect to
each other to allow the fabric to stretch in the warp direction
while the weft yarns 30 may be selected to provide other
performance characteristics, such as fire resistance, to the fabric
without regard to the stretchability of the weft yarns.
[0040] FIGS. 3A and 3B show cross-sections of the depicted fabric
portion 10 taken along one of the first warp yarns 40 and one of
the second warp yarns 45, respectively. For ease of explanation, 6
weft yarns 30 are shown arranged in a single row. The 6 weft yarns
have been sequentially identified for illustration purposes and are
referred to herein as "pick a," "pick b," "pick c," "pick a," "pick
b," and "pick c." Although the figures depict the diameters of the
warp yarns and the weft yarns to be similar, the diameters of the
yarns may be the same or different and are not limited to the
schematic representation provided in the figures. For example, the
first and/or second warp yarns may have a larger diameter than the
weft yarns, or vice versa. In addition, although the figures depict
a single yarn for each of the two warp systems 40, 45, one or more
of the warp systems may include multiple yarns, as discussed
below.
[0041] In the depicted embodiment, each of the first warp yarns 40
is structured to pass over two weft yarns (e.g., picks c and a) and
under one weft yarn (e.g., pick b) in a configuration that may be
repeated throughout the fabric, as shown in FIG. 3A. Similarly, in
FIG. 3B, each of the second warp yarns 45 is structured to pass
over two weft yarns (e.g., picks b and c) and under one weft yarn
(e.g., pick a). As a result of this configuration, a cross-section
taken along a weft yarn 30 also presents a "two float" structure,
as shown in FIG. 4. The "two float" structure of FIGS. 3A, 3B, and
4 could be replaced with a three float structure (i.e., the first
and/or second warp yarns pass over three picks before proceeding
under one) or other weave structures having greater or fewer
numbers of floats depending upon fabric design requirements, as
will be understood by one of ordinary skill in the art in light of
this disclosure. For example, in other embodiments, warp systems
having three or more floats may be used to provide greater
flexibility, stretch, and/or drapeability to the fabric.
Furthermore, in some embodiments, different warp systems may have a
different number of floats. For example, the first warp yarns 40
may be woven to incorporate two floats, whereas the second warp
yarns may be woven to include three or more floats.
[0042] The repeated weave structure of the two warp systems 40, 45
may be shifted in the warp direction (along the x-axis direction),
for example, when cross-sections taken at different weftwise
positions (positions along the y-axis) of the fabric are compared,
resulting in a tweed pattern of the fabric. The depicted
construction, however, is only one example of a weave structure of
the fabric. Embodiments may include numerous other basic and
complex constructions, as will be understood by one skilled in the
art in light of this disclosure.
[0043] In some embodiments, the first warp yarns 40 are in an
alternating arrangement with the second warp yarns 45. Thus, as
shown in FIGS. 1B and 2B, a single first warp yarn 40 may alternate
with a single second warp yarn 45 such that each first warp yarn is
adjacent two second warp yarns, one on either side (except perhaps
at the boundaries of the fabric). In another embodiment, however,
the weftwise pattern may include 2 first warp yarns 40 alternating
with a single second warp yarn 45, 2 first warp yarns alternating
with 2 second warp yarns, 3 first warp yarns alternating with 1
second warp yarn, 1 first warp yarn alternating with 3 second warp
yarns, and so on, as dictated by the wearer's performance needs,
the desired aesthetic appearance of the fabric, and other design
considerations.
[0044] Referring again to FIG. 1B, some of the warp yarns may be
stretchable, and others of the warp yarns may be non-stretchable,
or at least may not be as stretchable as the stretchable yarns
(i.e., may exhibit some stretchability, but not as much as the
stretchable yarns). In particular, the first warp yarns 40 may
comprise stretchable yarns, for which a force applied along the
axis of the stretchable yarn results in a temporary lengthening of
the yarn (i.e., elastic deformation), with the yarn returning to
approximately its original length once the force is removed. For
example, a stretchable yarn may be a yarn that can be stretched to
approximately 200% to 700% of its original length (i.e., 2 to 7
times its original length) under tension and returns to
approximately its original length when no longer under tension.
Examples of stretchable yarns include Spandex or elastane fibers,
such as Lycra.RTM. and Dorlastan.RTM. fibers, latex, and
polyurethane rubber fibers.
[0045] At least some of the second warp yarns 45 may comprise
non-stretchable yarns. Non-stretchable yarns are yarns that exhibit
little or no stretchability. For example, a non-stretchable yarn
may be a yarn that stretches to less than twice its original length
under tension (e.g., a yarn that fractures or breaks when stretched
to, for example, 1.5 times its original length) or a yarn that,
once lengthened under tension, is permanently elongated (i.e.,
plastically deformed) and does not have the elasticity to return to
approximately its original length after the force is removed. In
other words, although the yarn may not remain at its extended
length once the tensile force is removed, it is not able to fully
return to approximately its original (e.g., pre-tension)
length.
[0046] Nylon 6 and Nylon 6,6, for example, are 100% elastic only
when extended to a length that is less than 1.08 times the original
yarn's length. Beyond this extension, such yarns undergo plastic
deformation and are thus characterized herein as non-stretchable
yarns. Similarly, texturized nylon yarns are typically stretchable
in the range of approximately 1.06 to 1.34 times the yarn's
original length. Other examples of non-stretchable yarns include
cotton, wool, rayon, polyamid fibers, modeacrylic fibers, high
modulus fibers, Kevlar.RTM. fibers, Nomex.RTM. fibers, high
molecular weight polyethylene, aramids, fiberglass, and carbon
fibers. Thus, such yarns are not stretchable relative to the yarns
described above that are stretchable yarns, such as Lycra.RTM.
yarns.
[0047] In another aspect of the depicted embodiment, the weft yarns
may be fire-resistant. For example, the weft yarns may be
modacrylic fibers that exhibit fire-resistant properties, but are
non-stretchable. In this way, the fabric may be useful in garments
designed for exposure to high heat and/or fire, such as in certain
military or fire-fighting applications.
[0048] In some embodiments, each first warp yarn 40 may comprise
two yarns (e.g., in parallel, twisted, wrapped, etc.) that are
interwoven with the weft yarns 30 in the same manner as described
above. In particular, in some embodiments, at least some of the
first warp yarns 40 comprise a stretchable core yarn 41 and a
non-stretchable wrap yarn 42 wrapped around the stretchable core
yarn, as illustrated in FIG. 5A. For example, the stretchable core
yarn 41 may be Lycra.RTM. fiber or a Lycra.RTM. fiber blend,
whereas the non-stretchable wrap yarn 42 may be nylon. Although in
this example a stretchable yarn (i.e., the stretchable core yarn
41) is arranged with a non-stretchable yarn (i.e., the
non-stretchable wrap yarn 42), the resulting first warp yarn 40 may
be stretchable to approximately 1.05 to 2 times its original
length. This is because as the stretchable core yarn 41 lengthens
under tension (FIG. 5B), the non-stretchable wrap yarn 42
"straightens out" to allow for the lengthening of the core yarn. In
other words, the number of turns of the non-stretchable wrap yarn
42 per unit length of the core yarn 41 decreases as the core yarn
is stretched, and the first warp yarn 40 as a whole increases in
length as tension is applied. Although the stretchable core yarn 41
may be stretchable alone to 4 times its original length, for
example, a first warp yarn 40 comprised of a stretchable core yarn
41 and a non-stretchable wrap yarn 42 may only be stretchable to
1.3 times its original length. This limitation may be adjusted
based on the length of the wrap yarn and the density of the
wrapping about the core (e.g., the number of turns per unit
length). Thus, the greater the density of the wrapping about the
core, the lower the stretchability of the resulting first warp yarn
40.
[0049] The length of the non-stretchable wrap yarn 42 is thus
generally greater than the length of the stretchable core yarn 41,
for example to account for the number of turns of the wrap yarn per
unit length of the core yarn. In addition, in some cases, multiple
non-stretchable wrap yarns 42 are wrapped around the stretchable
core yarn 41 in an effort to balance the forces on the core yarn.
For example, referring to FIG. 9, a first wrap yarn 42a may be
wrapped from left to right about the core yarn 41, and a second
wrap yarn 42b may be wrapped from right to left over the first wrap
yarn 42a and the core yarn. In this way, the forces exerted on the
core yarn 41 by the first wrap yarn 42a are counteracted and/or
"balanced" by the second wrap yarn 42b wrapped in the opposite
direction, giving the fabric additional stability (e.g., preventing
rolling of the fabric).
[0050] Turning again to FIG. 1B, the first warp yarns 40 may be
interwoven with the weft yarns 30 in an extended state and may be
activatable to achieve a contracted state. For example, the first
warp yarns 40 may be treated (e.g., chemically treated) such that
each first warp yarn has a tendency to remain in the extended state
without the application of any, or as much, tensile force. In
addition, during the weaving process, the first warp yarns 40 may
be held in tension to achieve the extended state. Thus, in some
embodiments (e.g., embodiments in which the first warp yarn 40
comprises a stretchable core yarn 41 and a non-stretchable wrap
yarn 42), the length of each first warp yarn 40 in the extended
state may be approximately 1.1 to 2.5 times its original, or
contracted, length, depending on the amount of stretchability to be
imparted to the finished fabric for a particular application. The
first warp yarns 40 may thus be activatable to change state from
the extended state to the contracted state. In other words, in the
extended state, even after the tension applied to the first warp
yarns 40 during the weaving process is removed, the first warp
yarns may have a tendency to remain relatively elongated due to the
treatment that the yarn was subjected to prior to weaving. Upon
activating the first warp yarns 40, however, the first warp yarns
may "shrink" from the extended state to achieve their contracted
state.
[0051] In one embodiment, activation of the first warp yarns 40
occurs during a finishing procedure that the fabric undergoes after
the first warp yarns, the second warp yarns 45, and the weft yarns
30 have been interwoven to form the fabric. The finishing procedure
may entail washing the fabric for a short duration at a temperature
of approximately 100.degree. C., which may cause the first warp
yarns 40 to change from the extended state to the contracted
state.
[0052] Turning to FIGS. 6A and 6B, in contrast to the extended
state of the first warp yarns 40, the second warp yarns 45 may be
provided in an unbunched, or relaxed, state for interweaving with
the weft yarns 30. As a result of the change of state of the first
warp yarns 40 from the extended state to the contracted state,
however, the second warp yarns 45 are changed from the unbunched
state (FIG. 6B) to a bunched state (FIG. 6A). Thus, the terms
"extended" and "unbunched" as used herein refer to a state of the
first warp yarns 40 and second warp yarns 45, respectively, in
which the respective yarns achieve a relatively longer length.
Conversely, the terms "contracted" and "bunched" as used herein
refer to a state of the first warp yarns 40 and second warp yarns
45, respectively, in which the respective yarns achieve a
relatively shorter length.
[0053] More specifically, the second warp yarns 45 may be in a
bunched state in the finished fabric, as shown in FIG. 6A, such
that each of the second warp yarns is not at its original unbunched
length l.sub.u, but rather is held at a reduced or shortened
bunched length l.sub.b by the elastic force F.sub.1 of the first
warp yarns 40 to remain in the contracted state. In some cases, the
bunched length l.sub.b of the second warp yarns 45 in their bunched
state is between approximately 20% and 80% of the unbunched length
l.sub.u, for example between approximately 70% and 75% of l.sub.u.
As a result of this configuration of the second warp yarns 45 with
respect to the first warp yarns 40, the finished fabric 10 is
stretchable in the warp direction to between approximately 1.1 and
2 times its original dimension in the warp direction, for example
between approximately 1.1 and 1.42 times its original warp
dimension (i.e., between 10% and 42% stretch).
[0054] Thus, the bunched configuration of the second warp yarns 45
within the finished fabric 10 allows the first warp yarns 40 to
stretch, thereby allowing the fabric as a whole to be stretchable
in the warp direction. In other words, as the first warp yarns 40
are stretched (e.g., when a tensile force F.sub.2 is applied to the
fabric, for example, due to the wearer's activity), the second warp
yarns 45 are correspondingly moved from the bunched state to the
unbunched state. The extent of the fabric's stretchability may be
limited by the unbunched length l.sub.u, of the second warp yarns
45. Thus, once the second warp yarns 45 have achieved their
unbunched length l.sub.u, the fabric 10 generally cannot be
stretched further, even if, individually, the first warp yarns 40
are capable of additional stretch.
[0055] As mentioned above, in some embodiments, one or more warp
system yarns may include a stretchable yarn to provide flexibility
to the fabric. For example, the first warp yarns 40 may be
comprised of or include Lycra.RTM. yarns, whereas the second warp
yarns 45 may include non-stretchable yarns. In still other
embodiments of the present invention, the second warp yarns 45 and
the weft yarns 30 may be chosen to perform certain functions
without regard to the inherent stretchability of the particular
yarn. In other words, because of the configuration and arrangement
of the first and second warp yarns 40, 45 with respect to each
other and the weft yarns 30, the second warp yarns 45 may be
selected for their performance characteristics (for example,
strength or abrasion resistance), and the weft yarns may be
selected for their fire resistance. Thus, the warpwise
stretchability of the fabric will be generally based on the
stretchability of the first warp yarns 40 and the difference
between the bunched length l.sub.b as compared to the unbunched
length l.sub.u of the second warp yarns 45.
[0056] In one exemplary embodiment, a one-layer stretch, light
weight, fire resistant fabric, such as may be suitable for forming
outerwear for military applications, may be comprised as follows.
In this embodiment, one or more of the warp systems may be
composite yarns made of 50% nylon and 50% Lycra.RTM. fibers. For
example, the first warp yarns 40 may be made of nylon filaments
wrapped in two directions over a Lycra.RTM. fiber core to form the
composite yarn, as discussed above. The second warp yarns 45 may be
nylon yarns. The yarns in this example may have various
thicknesses, such as 40 denier, 60 denier, or 120 denier Lycra.RTM.
yarn and 70 denier, 100 denier, or 150 denier nylon yarn, among
other thicknesses. The warp systems may each comprise the same
nylon-Lycra.RTM. fiber blend, or different materials can be used in
one or two of the warp systems to provide for different performance
characteristics based on the intended use of the fabric. Other
yarns that may be used in the warp systems include, for example,
cotton, rayon, polyester, nylon, acrylic, and polypropylene, among
others. In this exemplary embodiment, the weft yarns may be made of
fire resistant yarns, such as monofilament, multifilament in a
continuous filament process, or staple fibers, such as in ring
spinning or open end spinning systems. Such fire resistant yarns
may include, for example, wool, modacrylic, fire resistant rayon,
fire resistant polyester, Kevlar.RTM. fibers, Nomex.RTM. fibers,
metallic fibers, fiberglass, and polybenzimidazole (PBI), among
others.
[0057] In this regard, the yarns of the warp and weft systems may
be woven together as described above to form a fabric of twill
construction containing 74% modacrylic fibers, 24% nylon, and 2%
Lycra.RTM. fibers. The finished fabric width may be between 57
inches and 60 inches with a thickness of approximately 0.84 mm, and
the fabric may weigh approximately 8.5 oz. per square yard. In
addition to having fire resistant characteristics, the resulting
fabric of the exemplary embodiment is stretchable in the warp
direction, providing enhanced flexibility and comfort to the
wearer.
[0058] As mentioned above, once the first warp yarns 40, the second
warp yarns 45, and the weft yarns 30 are woven together, the fabric
may be subjected to a finishing procedure to create the finished
fabric 10. In addition to effecting the activation of the first
warp yarns 40 from the extended state to the contracted state, and
the resulting change of the second warp yarns 45 from the unbunched
state to the bunched state, the finishing procedure may also serve
to impart other desired characteristics to the fabric, according to
the user's requirements. For example, the finishing procedure may
include chemically treating the fabric to provide an anti-microbial
coating. As another example, the finishing procedure may make the
fabric water-resistant or waterproof. In still another example, the
finishing procedure may provide the fabric with stain-release
capabilities, in addition to numerous other qualities as will be
recognized by one skilled in the art in light of this disclosure.
Furthermore, the fabric 10 may be dyed or printed upon to provide
the fabric with a desired aesthetic appearance. For example, in
military applications, the finished fabric may have a camouflage
pattern printed upon its surface to aid the wearer in military
activities.
[0059] In addition to the stretchability of the first warp yarn 40,
the length of the first warp yarn in the extended state, and the
length of the second warp yarn in the unbunched state, the density
of the weave also plays a role in the resulting stretchability of
the finished fabric 10. For example, a more densely woven fabric
(i.e., less space between the yarns) would provide for less
stretchability in the finished fabric, whereas a less densely woven
fabric (i.e., more space between the yarns) would provide for
greater stretchability in the finished fabric. Thus, based on the
preferences of the wearer and the particular application for which
the fabric will be used, the materials selected for the first and
second warp yarns, the configuration of the first and second warp
yarns, and the weave density can be customized and adjusted to
produce fabrics with varying degrees of stretchability.
[0060] Referring now to FIG. 7, embodiments of the resulting
stretchable fabric may be used to fashion various types of clothing
in accordance with embodiments of the present invention. For
example, the fabric can be used to fashion pants, overcoats,
shirts, and undergarments, among many other forms of clothing. In
particular, embodiments of the stretchable fabric 10 may be used in
certain portions of typical garments that require, for example,
additional stretch capabilities with respect to the rest of the
garment. For example, embodiments of the stretchable fabric may be
used to fortify, enhance, or repair high-stress areas of the
garment, such as proximate the elbow 80 the knee 50, pockets 60,
and/or the posterior area 65 of pants. Thus, the stretchability
provided by the stretchable first warp yarns 40 and the
configuration of the first warp yarns with respect to the second
warp yarns 45 of the fabric may allow the wearer to move freely
while wearing the garment, whereas the selection of an appropriate
non-stretchable yarn for the second warp yarns can impart other
desired characteristics to the region 80, 50, 60, 65, such as the
ability to aesthetically match or resemble the rest of the
garment.
[0061] For example, in an embodiment in which the first warp yarns
40 are nylon yarns wrapped around a Lycra.RTM. yarn core and the
second warp yarns 45 are nylon yarns, a "patch" may be made that is
both stretchable and has a smooth, unobtrusive look. In other
words, rather than be compelled to use solely Lycra.RTM. yarns in
the warp direction to provide the desired stretchability, which
would result in a rough or unfinished-looking patch, by
incorporating nylon as a wrap yarn 42 in the first warp yarn 40 and
as the second warp yarn 45, the finished fabric portion may have a
smooth appearance to match the surface of the remainder of the
garment. In addition, the strength of the nylon yarn in turn gives
mechanical strength properties to the fabric portion for preventing
or reducing cuts and tears through the fabric. In this way, the
fabric can be dyed or printed upon in any color to match the look
of the clothing. In addition, a yarn such as nylon may also impart
additional strength characteristics to the garment in the
high-stress areas where it is most needed. Furthermore, in some
embodiments, the configuration of the fabric and selection of yarns
provides a lightweight material to allow the wearer additional
performance flexibility.
[0062] As will be apparent to one of skill in the art upon
reviewing this disclosure, fabrics configured in accordance with
various embodiments of the present invention may be structured to
provide more flexible, aesthetically pleasing materials that are
customizable for use in a number of applications. In addition to
selecting the appropriate material for each of the first and second
warp yarns 40, 45 to provide the desired performance
characteristics, additional (i.e., third, fourth, etc.) warp yarns
may be selected and incorporated into the one-layer stretchable
fabric according to the embodiments described above.
[0063] The fabric structure 10 described above can be formed using
an apparatus such as the loom 100 shown in FIG. 8. The loom 100
includes a first beam 105 holding a supply of warp yarns, such as
the first warp yarns 40, and a second beam 110 holding another
supply of warp yarns, such as the second warp yarns 45. The first
and second beams 105, 110 may be positively driven to advance the
warp yarns 40, 45 through the loom 100 to a fabric take-up area
115. As will be apparent to one of skill in the art in view of this
disclosure, the warp yarns 40, 45 are fed through heddles 120, each
heddle being supported by a frame 125. One or more grippers 130 are
used to pull the weft picks 30 through the shed that is created by
the movement of the frames 125 and heddles 120. As will be further
appreciated by one of ordinary skill in the art, the loom 100 may
include hundreds of beams and frames to provide for the weaving of
large portions of fabric. Thus, FIG. 5 provides a very simplified
illustration for the purposes of explanation, only.
[0064] Furthermore, as noted above, in some embodiments, the first
warp yarns 40 held on the first beam 105 are in an extended state,
such that the first warp yarns are advanced through the loom 100
and interwoven with the second warp yarns 45 and weft yarns 30
while in the extended state. Once the woven fabric has advanced to
the take-up area 115, the fabric may then be transported to a
finishing station 140 (shown schematically in FIG. 8), where the
fabric is subjected to a finishing procedure. As discussed above,
the finishing process thus activates the first warp yarns 40,
changing the first warp yarns from the extended state to the
contracted state and resulting in the second warp yarns 45 changing
from the unbunched to the bunched state, thereby providing
"built-in" stretchability to the fabric.
[0065] Depending on the choice of yarns for weaving the fabric, the
fabric may be optimized for particular applications and may exhibit
desirable chemical, electrical, thermal, mechanical, and/or
physical properties as needed. As such, the fabric can be used to
form clothing for various purposes, such as protective clothing for
motorcycle operators and construction workers, flame-resistant
and/or armored clothing for law enforcement, military personnel,
and other types of clothing that may be designed to protect the
wearer from one or more particular environmental conditions.
[0066] Although embodiments of the fabric discussed above are
configured for providing warpwise stretchability, it is understood
that the concepts described above can similarly be applied for
producing a fabric that is stretchable only in the weft direction
or in both the warp and weft directions. Thus, in some embodiments,
at least some of the weft yarns may include stretchable yarns and
the warp yarns may be selected without regard to stretchability, or
both the weft and warp yarns may include stretchable yarns, as will
be understood by one skilled in the art in light of this
disclosure.
[0067] Many modifications and other embodiments of the invention
set forth herein will come to mind to one skilled in the art to
which the invention pertains having the benefit of the teachings
presented in the foregoing descriptions and the associated
drawings. Therefore, it is to be understood that the invention is
not to be limited to the specific embodiments disclosed and that
modifications and other embodiments are intended to be included
within the scope of the appended claims. Although specific terms
are employed herein, they are used in a generic and descriptive
sense only and not for purposes of limitation.
* * * * *