U.S. patent application number 12/995073 was filed with the patent office on 2011-05-26 for hair treatment methods and kits.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Samira Khenniche, Isabelle Rollat-Corvol, Henri Samain.
Application Number | 20110120487 12/995073 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 41445027 |
Filed Date | 2011-05-26 |
United States Patent
Application |
20110120487 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Rollat-Corvol; Isabelle ; et
al. |
May 26, 2011 |
HAIR TREATMENT METHODS AND KITS
Abstract
A cosmetic treatment method for hair, the method comprising the
following steps: abrading the hair using abrasion means enabling
the hair to be abraded; and applying a cosmetic treatment
composition to the hair, before, after, and/or during abrasion of
the hair.
Inventors: |
Rollat-Corvol; Isabelle;
(Paris, FR) ; Khenniche; Samira; (Clichy, FR)
; Samain; Henri; (Bievres, FR) |
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
PARIS
FR
|
Family ID: |
41445027 |
Appl. No.: |
12/995073 |
Filed: |
May 29, 2009 |
PCT Filed: |
May 29, 2009 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/FR09/51024 |
371 Date: |
January 21, 2011 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
61129523 |
Jul 2, 2008 |
|
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61103722 |
Oct 8, 2008 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
132/200 ;
132/221 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/9789 20170801;
A45D 24/30 20130101; A45D 34/04 20130101; A61K 8/965 20130101; A61K
8/25 20130101; A61Q 5/00 20130101; A45D 19/16 20130101; A45D
2200/057 20130101; A61K 8/28 20130101; A61K 8/29 20130101; A61K
8/26 20130101; A61Q 5/12 20130101; A45D 7/06 20130101; A45D 19/02
20130101; A45D 2200/1036 20130101; A61K 2800/28 20130101; A45D
2200/1018 20130101; A61K 8/88 20130101; A45D 7/04 20130101; A61K
8/27 20130101; A45D 2200/207 20130101; A45D 2200/1054 20130101;
A46B 11/001 20130101; A61K 2800/87 20130101; A61K 8/19 20130101;
A45D 24/22 20130101; A61K 8/9794 20170801; A45D 2007/001 20130101;
A45D 2007/002 20130101; A45D 19/0041 20210101 |
Class at
Publication: |
132/200 ;
132/221 |
International
Class: |
A45D 19/00 20060101
A45D019/00; A45D 7/00 20060101 A45D007/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
May 30, 2008 |
FR |
08 53595 |
May 30, 2008 |
FR |
08 53597 |
Claims
1-44. (canceled)
45. A method for cosmetic treatment of hair, the method comprising:
abrading the hair using abrasion means enabling the hair to be
abraded; and applying a cosmetic treatment composition to the hair,
before, after, and/or during abrasion of the hair.
46. A method according to claim 45, wherein the hair is abraded by
applying abrasive particles thereto, the abrasive particles being
selected from the following: inorganic and/or metallic particles;
organic particles; and mixed particles associating organic and
inorganic compounds, and particles coated in the above
compounds.
47. A method according to claim 46, wherein the abrasive particles
have hardness greater than or equal to 3 on the Mohs scale.
48. A method according to claim 45, the abrasion means comprising
at least two facing surfaces, at least one of which is abrasive,
the facing surfaces being in contact with the hair during abrasion,
and at least one of the facing surfaces acting on the hair by
abrasion.
49. A method according to claim 48, wherein only one surface is
abrasive, the other surface(s) being non-abrasive.
50. A method according to claim 49, wherein the non-abrasive
surface is used to apply a treatment composition to the hair.
51. A method according to claim 48, wherein the surfaces coming
into contact with the hair are subject to motion relative to each
other during the abrasion treatment, the relative motion being
generally manually or at least in part in motor-driven manner,
using a mechanical system.
52. A method according to claim 45, wherein the abrasion means are
configured in such a manner as to project abrasive particles onto
the hair so as to abrade the hair.
53. A method according to claim 52, wherein a jet of particles is
propelled by a fluid.
54. A method according to claim 45, wherein the abrasion means
include a hair-care composition comprising abrasive particles that
are applied to the hair so as to abrade it.
55. A method according to claim 45, wherein the hair-care
composition includes abrasive particles of mean size greater than
or equal to 50 .mu.m and the abrasive particles having a mean size
less than or equal to 500 .mu.m.
56. A method according to claim 54, wherein the abrasive solid
particles present a content lying in the range 0.1% to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
57. A method according to claim 45, wherein the treatment
composition is selected from: compositions that modify the
mechanical properties of hair emollient or penetration
compositions, compositions that modify the surface properties of
hair compositions for restructuring the insides of hair and dyes
that are direct or that act on oxidation.
58. A method according to claim 45, wherein the hair is rinsed
after abrasion.
59. A method according to claim 45, wherein the abrasion means
include a hair-care composition comprising abrasive solid particles
having a mean dimension greater than or equal to 50 .mu.m, the
abrasion treatment being performed mesh by mesh, the number of
passes being greater than five passes.
60. A method according to claim 45, wherein the abrasion means
include a hair-care composition comprising abrasive solid particles
of mean dimension greater than or equal to 50 .mu.m the method
including subjecting the hair to post-treatment, after treatment
with the hair-care composition, the post-treatment being selected
from applying a permanent wave, a straitening composition, a
coloring composition, or a bleaching composition for hair.
61. A hair treatment method comprising abrading the hair with a
hair-care composition including abrasive solid particles of mean
dimension greater than or equal to 50 .mu.m, the method comprising
subjecting the hair to post-treatment, after treatment with the
hair-care composition, the post-treatment being selected from
applying a permanent wave, a straightening composition, a coloring
composition, or a bleaching composition for hair.
62. A hair treatment kit comprising: abrasion means enabling the
hair to be abraded; and one or more cosmetic treatment compositions
for hair.
63. A hair treatment method comprising abrading the hair with a
hair-care composition including abrasive solid particles of mean
dimension greater than or equal to 50 .mu.m, wherein the abrasive
solid particles are at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 20%,
and are of hardness greater than or equal to 3, on the Mohs
scale.
64. A hair treatment kit comprising, within a packaging device: a
hair-care composition including abrasive solid particles of mean
dimension greater than or equal to 50 .mu.m, and a medium including
instructions for use of the hair-care composition on the hair for
the purpose of abrading the hair.
65. A kit according to claim 64, including a post-treatment
composition for the hair, being selected from a conditioner, a
permanent wave, a straightening composition, a coloring
composition, or a bleaching composition for hair.
Description
[0001] Hair may be damaged by chemical treatments such as dyeing,
or permanent waves, or by mechanical stresses such as untangling or
blow-drying. The mechanical, morphological, and physicochemical
properties of the surface of hair, in particular of the cuticle,
i.e. the outer layer of hairs with a scaly structure, are modified
thereby. In particular, during such treatments for stresses, scales
of the cuticle become raised and their normally regular margins
become ragged. Such deterioration can have several consequences.
Firstly, hair becomes less smooth and less easy to untangle.
Secondly, the active agents in a hair treatment composition, e.g. a
conditioner, run the risk of being deposited in non-uniform manner
on the hair. It can be desirable for active care agents to be
deposited uniformly on the hair.
[0002] It is known to care for damaged hair by applying a care
product thereon, e.g. including specific polymers such as silicones
or polymers with cationic fillers. Nevertheless, the improvement to
hair treated in this way is only temporary, since once the care
product is no longer on the hair, e.g. after washing the hair one
or more times, the hair returns to its original state.
[0003] EP 1 283 019 discloses an article such as a textured wipe
with elements in relief e.g. comprising rubber or a polyolefin. The
article is used to exfoliate the skin, for example.
[0004] EP 1 577 161 describes a rigid comb having teeth with ends
that are textured to give them a certain amount of roughness so as
to catch and remove nits present in the hair.
[0005] There exists a need to benefit from methods and kits
enabling hair to be treated durably, in particular hair with
surface damage.
[0006] Amongst other objects, the invention seeks to satisfy this
need and it achieves this by a cosmetic treatment method for hair
that comprises the following steps: [0007] abrading the hair using
abrasion means enabling the hair to be abraded; and [0008] applying
a cosmetic treatment composition to the hair, before, after, and/or
during abrasion of the hair.
[0009] The steps of the method of the invention may be implemented
in a single session, e.g. over a period of one hour. When the
cosmetic treatment composition is applied to the hair prior to
abrading it, the composition is still present while the hair is
being abraded. When the composition is applied after the hair has
been abraded, this application takes place immediately after the
abrasion, during a single session, e.g. within a period of one hour
or less.
[0010] Another object of the invention is to provide a method of
treating hair that comprises the steps consisting in abrading the
hair with a hair-care composition including abrasive solid
particles of mean dimension greater than or equal to 50 micrometers
(.mu.m), in particular greater than or equal to 100 .mu.m.
[0011] The invention also provides a method of treating hair
comprising the step consisting in abrading the hair with a
hair-care composition including abrasive solid particles of mean
dimension greater than or equal to 50 .mu.m, in particular greater
than or equal to 100 .mu.m, the abrasion treatment being performed
mesh by mesh, the number of passes over a mesh being greater than
five passes, in particular lying in the range 6 to 100, e.g. in the
range 6 to 10.
[0012] The invention also provides a method of treating the hair,
comprising the step of abrading the hair with a hair-care
composition including abrasive solid particles of mean dimension
greater than or equal to 50 .mu.m, in particular greater than or
equal to 100 .mu.m, the method comprising the step consisting in
subjecting the hair to post-treatment, after the treatment with the
hair-care composition, the post-treatment being selected from
applying a permanent wave, a straightening composition, a coloring
composition, or a bleaching composition for hair.
[0013] The invention also provides a method of treating the hair to
smooth the hair, the method comprising the steps consisting in
abrading the hair with a hair-care composition including abrasive
solid particles of mean dimension greater than or equal to 50
.mu.m, in particular greater than or equal to 100 .mu.m.
[0014] The invention also provides a method of treating the hair
comprising the step of abrading the hair with a hair-care
composition including abrasive solid particles of mean dimension
greater than or equal to 50 .mu.m, in particular greater than or
equal to 100 .mu.m, wherein the abrasive solid particles are at a
content lying in the range 0.1% to 20%, in particular 5% to 20%,
better 10% to 20%, better still 15% to 20% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition and are of hardness greater
than or equal to 3, better greater than or equal to 4, preferably
greater than or equal to 5 on the Mohs scale.
[0015] The invention also provides a method of treating the hair
comprising two steps consisting in abrading the hair with two
hair-care compositions that are applied in succession, each
including abrasive solid particles of mean dimensions greater than
or equal to 50 .mu.m, in particular greater than or equal to 100
.mu.m, the mean dimensions of the solid particles of the two
hair-care compositions being different.
[0016] The invention may enable hair to be prepared for hair-care
post-treatment such as applying a conditioner, a color, a permanent
wave, a straightening composition, a bleaching composition, or some
other composition. The method may also include the step consisting
in subjecting the hair to post-treatment, after being treated with
the hair-care composition of the invention, the post-treatment
being selected from applying a conditioner, a straightening agent,
a coloring composition or a bleaching composition for hair, this
list not being limiting.
Hair Abrasion
[0017] The invention may enable the surface of hair as defined by
the cuticle to be smoothed.
[0018] The abrasion of hair as operated by implementing the
invention may be more or less thorough, depending on the initial
state of the hair and/or on the desired results.
[0019] To modulate the degree to which the hair is abraded, it is
possible for example to vary the duration of hair abrasion. The
abrasion may be relatively gentle and/or of short duration so as to
avoid hairs breaking during subsequent mechanical stressing and
treatment such as hair styling, for example.
[0020] By means of the invention, it is possible to make the hair
visibly smoother and the effect of the treatment is durable. The
hair may be cleared of any deposit that might be present on the
surface thereof prior to abrasion, and the margins of scales in the
cuticle may be made more regular.
[0021] Furthermore, after treatment, compositions for reinforcing
certain properties of hair or for modifying the appearance of hair
may penetrate more easily and more deeply into the abraded
hair.
Abrasive Particles
[0022] The hair may be abraded by applying abrasive particles
thereto in various ways described below.
[0023] The solid particles may be selected from natural particles,
in particular of mineral or vegetable origin, or from synthetic
materials. The abrasive particles may be selected from the
following, this list not being limiting: [0024] inorganic and/or
metallic particles such as boron nitride, in particular in
body-centered cubic form (Borazon.RTM.), aluminosilicate, zircon,
mixed oxides of aluminum such as emery, zinc oxide, aluminum oxides
such as aluminas, corundum, titanium oxide, titanium oxide coated
mica, carbides, in particular silicon carbide (carborundum), or
other metallic oxides, metals and metal alloys such as iron shot,
steel shot, in particular perlite shot; silicates such as glass,
quartz, or sand, calcium carbonate (e.g. bora bora sand or rose de
Brignoles sand) or magnesium carbonate, pumice stone, amorphous
silica, diamond, ceramics; [0025] organic particles such as the
stones of fruit, in particular apricot stones, e.g. Scrubami.RTM.
apricot, wood cellulose, in particular ground bamboo stem, coconut
shell, e.g. coconut exfoliator; polyimide, in particular nylon-6;
and [0026] mixed particles associating organic and inorganic
compounds, and particles coated in the above compounds.
[0027] The abrasive particles may optionally be soluble in
water.
[0028] The abrasive particles may present a mean dimension lying in
the range 10 nanometers (nm) to 800 .mu.m, better in the range 50
nm to 500 .mu.m. The term "dimension" in the meaning of the present
invention should be understood as the greatest dimension of a
particle. The term "mean dimension" in the meaning of the present
invention should be understood as the dimension given by the
statistical grain size distribution at half population, known as
750. Depending on the range of particles implemented, it may be
determined by using a screen or by laser granulometry.
[0029] The abrasive particles may be of vegetable or synthetic
origin and they may be of flat, spherical, elongate, polyhedral, or
irregular shape. The abrasive particles may be derived for example
from pumice stone powder grains, diamond powder, powdered stones of
fruit, powdered coconut shells, microbeads, e.g. microbeads of
alumina, glass, or polyamide, in particular nylon-6, or fibers, in
particular polyamide fibers, or hard fibers of wood cellulose. The
abrasive particles may be free of ceramic.
[0030] The hardness of the abrasive particles may be greater than
or equal to 3, better greater than or equal to 4, in particular
greater than or equal to 5, on the Mohs scale.
[0031] There follows a non-limiting table presenting various types
of abrasive particles that are suitable for being used:
TABLE-US-00001 Hard- Name Size ness Appearance Shape Zinc oxide 10
nm-30 nm 5 Pale yellow Irregular powder Nylon-6 powder 50 .mu.m-200
.mu.m 6 White powder Spherical Polyamide fibers 0.3 mm 5 Fibrous
Elongate Glass microbeads 2 .mu.m-20 .mu.m 6 Gray powder Spherical
Aluminum oxide 125 .mu.m 9 White powder Irregular Aluminum oxide
100 .mu.m 9 White powder Irregular Aluminum oxide 200 .mu.m 9 White
powder Irregular Alumina microbeads 8 .mu.m 9 White powder
Spherical Perlite 150 .mu.m 5.5 White powder Spherical Diamond
powder 0-3 .mu.m 10 Gray powder Spherical Diamond powder 30
.mu.m-50 .mu.m 10 Gray powder Spherical Pumice stone powder 260
.mu.m-287 .mu.m 6 Gray powder Irregular Pumice stone powder 250
.mu.m 6 Gray powder Irregular Pumice stone powder 0-125 .mu.m 6
Gray powder Irregular Pumice stone powder 0-75 .mu.m 6 Gray powder
Irregular Bora bora sand .apprxeq.4 Gray powder Spherical
CaCO.sub.3 Amorphous silica 16 .mu.m 7 White powder Spherical Rose
de Brignoles 700 .mu.m-800 .mu.m 4 Pink powder Spherical sand
CaCO.sub.3 Ground bamboo stem .apprxeq.7 White powder Spherical
Alumina microbeads 8 .mu.m 9 White powder Spherical Nylon-6
microbeads 8 .mu.m 9 White powder Spherical
Abrasive Surface(s)
[0032] By way of example, the abrasion means comprise at least two
facing surfaces, at least one of which is abrasive, the facing
surfaces coming into contact with the hair during abrasion, and at
least one of the facing surfaces acting on the hair by
abrasion.
[0033] The roughness of the or each abrasive surface corresponds
for example to the roughness of an abrasive surface having grain
size lying in the range P12 to P2500, where roughness is defined
using the standards ISO 6344-1, ISO 6344-2, and ISO 6344-3.
[0034] The abrasive surface(s) may comprise abrasive particles
fastened on a medium. Under such circumstances, the abrasive
particles may for example comprise a first material and they may be
fastened on a medium that is constituted at least in part by a
second material that is different from the first, at least in the
portion of the medium that comes into contact with the abrasive
particles.
[0035] The abrasive particles may be fastened to the medium by
various means, for example they may be adhesively bonded to the
medium or they may be dispersed within the medium in the form of a
filler. The abrasive particles may be fastened to the medium in
such a manner that the abrasive particles do not become detached
from the medium during treatment.
[0036] A plurality of abrasive surfaces presenting different
abrasion characteristics may be proposed together to the user, in
particular in the same packaging. When they include abrasive
particles, that may make it possible, for example, to enable the
user to perform first treatment with relatively coarse particles
followed by second treatment with finer particles.
[0037] All of the facing surfaces may be abrasive. This may serve
to reduce the duration of the treatment and/or to treat the hair in
more uniform manner. In a variant, only one of the surfaces need be
abrasive, with the other surface(s) being non-abrasive. The or each
non-abrasive surface, also referred to as a backing surface, may be
used to apply the treatment composition to the hair, which
composition may be a liquid, a gel, a cream, or a powder, for
example.
[0038] By way of example, the backing surface may include flocking,
a foam, or an elastomer, amongst others, and it may optionally be
impregnated with the treatment composition. The backing surface may
also present a surface state that encourages hair to slide in
contact therewith, e.g. being provided with a coating of a material
having a low coefficient of friction, e.g. polytetrafluoroethylene
(PTFE), or it may be defined by a wall of a thermoplastic material
including a fill of particles that encourage sliding, e.g.
particles of graphite.
[0039] The backing surface may be impregnated with the composition
before the abrasion treatment. The backing surface may also be fed
with the composition continuously or discontinuously during
treatment, for example the backing surface may communicate with a
supply containing the treatment composition.
[0040] At least one hair, better the majority or all of the hair
being treated may come into contact with the abrasive surface over
a length of at least 5 millimeters (mm), and preferably of at least
10 mm.
[0041] The or each abrasive surface may optionally be plane when it
comes into contact with the hair.
[0042] The above-mentioned facing surfaces may be the only facing
surfaces that come into contact with the hair each time the method
is implemented. The facing surfaces may be only two in number,
optionally being parallel to each other.
[0043] The surfaces coming into contact with the hair may
optionally be caused to move relative to one another during the
abrasion treatment. All of the surfaces may be set into motion.
[0044] The relative motion between the facing surfaces and the hair
may be generated by the person to whom the hair belongs or by a
third party, e.g. a hairdresser. The relative motion may be
generated manually or at least in part by motor-driven means, using
a mechanical system.
[0045] The hair may be treated from the roots towards the ends, or
otherwise.
Medium
[0046] The facing surface(s) define the face(s) of a medium.
[0047] The medium may be flexible, and for example it may comprise
or be constituted by a woven fabric, a non-woven fabric, a paper,
or a flexible polymer.
[0048] The medium may be in the form of a sheet having two opposite
main faces. Only one of the faces need present abrasive properties.
In a variant, the other face may also be abrasive. The abrasive
properties of the two faces may then be identical or different.
[0049] The facing surfaces may form parts of two distinct media, or
in a variant of a single medium that is folded so as to obtain at
least the two surfaces.
[0050] The medium may optionally deform during treatment. A
flexible medium may be suitable for deforming during treatment,
e.g. in the hand, where such deformation may be useful, e.g. for
entraining motion or manipulating more easily and/or better
controlling the amount of force that is applied. The flexibility of
the medium may also be useful for shaping a mesh for treatment.
[0051] In a variant, the abrasive surface(s) may form part of a
medium that is hard, e.g. having a modulus of elasticity that is
greater than or equal to 1 gigapascal (GPa), preferably greater
than or equal to 4 GPa.
[0052] By way of example, the medium may comprise a metal, a
ceramic, a mineral glass, or a thermoplastic material, in
particular a polyolefin, e.g. high density polyethylene.
[0053] The medium may comprise a plurality of portions, having a
first portion presenting abrasive properties and a second portion
to which the first portion is fastened, optionally in removable
manner.
[0054] The medium may be arranged to be easy for a user to grip,
e.g. being in the form of a glove, a glove finger, or being made
with a handle or with a grip.
[0055] The medium may be a heater and/or vibrator medium. By way of
example, the medium may enable the surface of the hair to be raised
to a temperature greater than or equal to 40.degree. C.
[0056] The medium may optionally be porous.
[0057] Each medium may be for single use, or alternatively may be
suitable for using several times over. The media may optionally be
individually packaged, and they may optionally be detachable from
one another. The medium may be packaged while impregnated with the
treatment composition, in a dry or a wet state.
[0058] A hard medium may comprise a structure that is arranged to
confer abrasive properties to the abrasive surface, in particular
it may comprise a sintered structure.
[0059] The abrasive surface may include roughnesses, e.g. spikes,
crenellations, or scratches.
Mechanical System
[0060] When one or more abrasive surfaces are set into motion by a
mechanical system, the system may be arranged to cause the abrasive
surface to vibrate or to cause it to move in a single
direction.
[0061] The vibration of the abrasive surface may have an amplitude
that is less than or equal to 20 mm, better less than or equal to
10 mm, better still less than or equal to 5 mm. The vibration of
the abrasive surface may have a frequency lying in the range 1
hertz (Hz) to 10,000 Hz, i.e. one go-and-return reciprocation per
second to 10,000 reciprocations per second, better in the range 2
Hz to 1000 Hz, better still in the range 5 Hz to 500 Hz.
[0062] While hair is being abraded, it is possible for example to
cause the amplitude and/or the frequency of the vibration of the
abrasive surface to vary and/or to cause the orientation of the
vibration to vary, for example the vibration may be in a
longitudinal direction substantially parallel to the hair or in a
transverse direction substantially perpendicular to the hair.
[0063] In a variant, or in addition, the abrasive surface may move
and be driven in rotation by the mechanical system. By way of
example, the speed of rotation may be modulated while abrading the
hair. The rotary motion may be rotary motion about one axis of
rotation, e.g. extending generally perpendicularly to the
root-to-end length, or it may be motion that is more complex, e.g.
comprising a combination of motions about distinct axes of
rotation.
[0064] By way of example, the abrasive surface may be defined by a
disk that moves in a plane of rotation about an axis that is
perpendicular to the axis of the hair, the various regions of the
abrasive surface coming successively into contact with the hair
during a rotation.
[0065] The abrasive surface may also be defined by a strip that
moves around a single axis by describing a circular path, or about
two axes, e.g. two mutually parallel axes, e.g. describing an
elliptical path.
[0066] The relative speed between the hair being treated and the
abrasive surface may for example lie in the range 0.005 meters per
second (m/s) to 10 m/s, preferably in the range 0.01 m/s to 3 m/s,
better in the range 0.02 m/s to 0.5 m/s, during treatment.
[0067] The duration of the abrasion of a portion of hair may lie
for example in the range 1 millisecond (ms) to several minutes, and
in particular may lie in the range 0.1 seconds (s) to 60 s, which
duration may depend for example on the intensity of the abrasion
and on the state of the hair.
[0068] While performing the method of the invention, the hair may
be held while it is being abraded. For example, it may be held in
the hand or with the help of a device for applying traction. The
traction exerted on the hair may be measured during treatment so as
to control said traction and give it a predefined value and/or
prevent it exceeding a predefined traction threshold.
[0069] Pressure may be exerted on the hair in contact with the
abrasive surface. This may serve to improve the effectiveness of
the abrasion. The pressure exerted on the hair may for example lie
in the range 1 pascal (Pa) to 1,000,000 Pa, better in the range 100
Pa to 100,000 Pa, preferably in the range 500 Pa to 50,000 Pa.
[0070] The mechanical system may include an electric, hydraulic, or
pneumatic motor, an engine, or other drive means.
[0071] The mechanical system is preferably portable.
[0072] The mechanical system that sets one or more of the abrasive
surfaces into motion may form part of an appliance. When the
abrasion is performed by vibrating abrasive surfaces, the abrasive
surface(s) may be set into vibration by means of at least one
vibration source that may be arranged in various ways. For example,
the vibration source may be arranged within the appliance so as to
cause the entire appliance to vibrate, with the vibration source
being located, for example, close to the abrasive surface, e.g. in
a branch of the appliance. By way of example, such a vibration
source may comprise an eccentric flyweight driven in rotation by an
electric motor at a speed that may be constant or variable, as a
function of whether it is desired to have a frequency of vibration
that is constant or variable. The orientation of the axis of
rotation of the motor may enable the direction of vibration to be
selected. When the vibration source is constituted by a flyweight
driven in rotation by an electric motor, the abrasive surface(s)
may vibrate with the same amplitude as the portions of the
appliance that supports them.
[0073] The vibration source may also be placed on the appliance in
such a manner as to drive at least one abrasive surface in motion
relative to a portion that supports it. For example, an abrasive
surface may be mounted so as to be capable of sliding between two
extreme positions and the vibration source may cause the abrasive
surface to reciprocate relative to the portion that supports it,
e.g. by means of a crank system that transforms rotary motion of an
electric motor into oscillating axial motion of the abrasive
surface. The frequency of oscillation of the abrasive surface
depends on the speed of rotation of the motor, which speed of
rotation may be constant or adjustable by the user.
[0074] The appliance may include a single oscillating abrasive
surface, or in a variant two facing abrasive surfaces that may
oscillate in the same direction or in opposite directions, or that
may oscillate independently of each other, at the same frequency or
at different frequencies, with the same amplitude or with different
amplitudes.
[0075] The mechanical system may comprise a piezoelectric
transducer or a motor provided with an eccentric flyweight in order
to create vibration of the abrasive surface.
[0076] The appliance may also be an appliance that enables abrasion
to be performed by moving the abrasive surface in a single
direction. Under such circumstances, the abrasive surface medium
may be a strip that is moved by at least one rotary shaft and
possibly by a second shaft, that is optionally rotary.
[0077] The abrasive surface medium may for example comprise a disk
that pivots about a rotary shaft.
[0078] The travel speed of the abrasive surface medium may be
variable and it may be adjusted by a suitable device.
[0079] The mechanical system may include an electrical, hydraulic,
or pneumatic motor, an engine, or other drive means.
[0080] The appliance, regardless of whether it operates in
vibration or by moving in a single direction, may include a suction
system to recover abrasive particles and/or particles or deposits
detached from the hair during abrasion thereof. By way of example,
the suction system may comprise a fan and a filter, and/or a pump
and a filter, and/or a liquid recovery system, e.g. comprising one
or more oils that collect the particles, and/or an electrostatic
system that attracts the particles onto a surface by creating a
potential field.
[0081] The appliance may include at least one abrasive or
non-abrasive surface that is pierced by holes so as to enable the
abrasive particles and/or particles detached from the hair to be
sucked through these holes, which holes may open out at or close to
the hair being treated.
[0082] The appliance may enable the hair to be abraded while
simultaneously applying the treatment composition. The appliance
may serve to deposit the composition on the hair, e.g. by means of
an applicator element placed facing the abrasive surface. The
composition may be taken to a dispenser orifice by any means, e.g.
by gravity, capillarity, or by means of a pump, e.g. an electric
pump or a manual pump driven by the user. The applicator element
carried by the appliance may also be pre-impregnated with the
treatment composition and may be put into place on the appliance in
the pre-impregnated state, or the appliance may be arranged to
enable it to be soaked in the treatment composition, either
completely or after removing a removable portion that includes the
applicator element. The appliance may also include a container
having a flexible wall against which the user may press in order to
force the composition to flow towards the hair.
[0083] The appliance may include a heater system, e.g. in order to
shape the hair after abrasion.
[0084] By way of example, the appliance may present two surfaces,
at least one of which may be abrasive, and between which it is
possible to insert the hair for treatment. When in a closed
position, the surfaces may be arranged to be suitable for holding a
mesh of hair, and to be capable of releasing said mesh when in an
open position. The appliance may include means for controlling the
pressure of one surface against the other when in the closed
position. For example, the control means may comprise a
controllable spring such as a blade, a spiral, an elastically
deformable material, and/or an abutment, and/or an electronic
sensor suitable for triggering an audible or visible alarm when the
pressure is excessive.
[0085] The appliance may include an audible or visible indicator
for informing the user when a sufficient number of passes have been
performed, e.g. in order to avoid abrading the hair
excessively.
[0086] In a variant, the appliance may include an element such as a
small wheel, or any other movement sensor, for example, serving to
enable the appliance to count the number of passes over the
hair.
Microsanding
[0087] Independently of the above-described abrasive surface(s),
the abrasion means may be configured so as to project abrasive
particles onto the hair in order to abrade it. Under such
circumstances, the abrasive particles are free and they are not
fastened on a medium.
[0088] The abrasive particles may be projected in the form of at
least one jet.
[0089] A jet of solid particles may be projected onto the hair at a
particle mass flow rate lying in the range 1 milligram per second
(mg/s) to 25 grams per second (g/s), and preferably in the range 10
mg/s to 10 g/s.
[0090] A jet of solid particles may be projected into the hair
under propulsion from a liquid or gaseous vector fluid. The volume
flow rate of the vector fluid, gas or liquid, may lie in the range
50 microliters per second (.mu.L/s) to 4 liters per second (L/s),
and preferably lies in the range 500 .mu.L/s to 2 L/s.
[0091] As a liquid fluid, mention may be made in particular of
water.
[0092] As a gaseous fluid, mention may be made in particular of
air.
[0093] The jet of particles optionally associated with a fluid may
be delivered under pressure. Its pressure preferably lies in the
range 2 bars to 50 bars, better in the range 3 bars to 20 bars, and
still more preferably in the range 3 bars to 15 bars.
[0094] Preferably, the fluid is a fluid under pressure. Still more
preferably, the fluid is compressed air.
[0095] The speed of the particles at the moment of impact may, for
example, lie in the range 0.01 m/s to 750 m/s, and preferably in
the range 0.1 m/s to 100 m/s. Provision may be made for it to be
possible to modify the above-mentioned flow rate. For example,
abrasion may begin at a high flow rate, and subsequently abrasion
may be terminated at a lower flow rate so as to avoid excessively
abrading the hair.
[0096] Flow rate adjustment may be manual, being performed by the
user, or it may be performed by a processor device, e.g. as a
function of the amount of time that has elapsed since the beginning
of treatment.
[0097] The jet of solid particles as projected onto the hair may
present a width extending transversely to the jet contacting the
hair that lies in the range 10 .mu.m to 4 centimeters (cm), better
in the range 50 .mu.m to 8 mm, preferably in the range 100 .mu.m to
2 mm.
[0098] On arrival in the zone where the jet impacts against the
hair, the section of the jet may lie in the range 0.0001 square
millimeters (mm.sup.2) to 8 square centimeters (cm.sup.2), and
preferably in the range 1 mm.sup.2 to 1 cm.sup.2.
[0099] A plurality of jets may be sent towards the hair. These jets
may be parallel, diverging, or converging. The impact zones of the
jets may optionally overlap, e.g. being substantially touching. At
least two jets may be used for treating two opposite sides
respectively of a mesh of hair.
[0100] The section of the jet(s) may optionally be circular.
[0101] Within a jet, the distribution of particles may be uniform
or otherwise.
[0102] The jet may be solid or hollow.
[0103] The vector fluid may convey not only particles, but where
appropriate also at least one hair treatment compound, in
particular a compound selected from: [0104] polymers such as
cationic polymers, silicones that are soluble or in an emulsion;
[0105] non-polymeric treatment agents such as cationic surfactants,
oils such as mineral, vegetable, or modified oils such as
transesterified oils; [0106] non-polymeric organic molecules such
as solvents, e.g. monoalcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol,
polyols such as glycerol or propylene glycerol, ethers of
monoalcohols or of polyols, aldehydes, or ketones, such as acetone,
alkanes such as isododecane, and in particular solvents capable of
dissolving fatty compounds; [0107] compounds used in hair
treatment, such as coloring agents, oxidants, reducing agents,
alkaline agents, or acids such as hydroxyacids; [0108] compounds
used in treating the scalp or the skin, such as antifungal agents,
anti-hairloss agents, anti-transpiration agents, and peeling agents
other than the abrasive particles; and [0109] surfactant agents
that are anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric, or
zwitterionic.
[0110] The vector fluid may thus constitute a hair treatment
composition.
[0111] The particles may also be projected towards the surface for
treatment without a vector fluid, e.g. by being impacted against a
vibrating surface, e.g. a sonotrode. The particles may also be
magnetized and set into vibration by an electromagnetic field.
[0112] It may be possible to modify the section of the jet, e.g.
while abrasion is taking place, so as to treat a mesh that is
narrower or a small zone, or on the contrary a mesh that is thicker
or a wider zone of the hair, for example. The mass flow rate and/or
the section of the jet may be modulated simultaneously or
independently, for example.
[0113] Mechanical, pneumatic, hydraulic, or electromechanical means
may be used for imparting the required speed to the particles.
[0114] The jet of particles may be delivered by a nozzle.
[0115] The jet may be delivered by a nozzle that is optionally
movable, e.g. a nozzle that is driven with reciprocating or rotary
motion.
[0116] By way of example, the abrasion means may comprise a hair
treatment appliance comprising: [0117] at least one enclosure
configured to have a mesh of hair passed therethrough and/or formed
by the mesh of hair; and [0118] a particle projection system
configured to project abrasive solid particles against the hair, in
particular against a portion of hair contained in the enclosure, so
as to abrade the hair passing through and/or closing the
enclosure.
[0119] The particle projection system may be arranged to project
the particles together with a vector fluid under pressure. By way
of example, the particle projection system may include or be
connected to a compressor or a suction pump arranged to propel the
solid particles with a flow of air.
[0120] The particle projection system may include a solid particle
feed nozzle configured so that the solid particles are projected
into the inside of the enclosure.
[0121] The appliance may include a supply of solid particles for
being projected against the hair in order to abrade it.
[0122] In order to recover abrasive particles and/or particles or
deposits detached from the hair during abrasion thereof, the
appliance may include a suction system. By way of example, the
suction system may comprise a fan and a filter, and/or a pump and a
filter, and/or a liquid recovery system, e.g. comprising one or
more oils that collect particles, and/or an electrostatic system
that attracts particles onto a surface by creating a potential
field. When the appliance includes a suction system, it may also
include a container for containing used particles and deposits that
have been sucked up by the suction system. The suction may take
place inside the enclosure.
[0123] The appliance may include means for combining particles
inside the enclosure so as to reduce losses of particles leaving
the enclosure. By way of example, such confinement means may
comprise a flexible slot or a comb having teeth that are close
together with the mesh of hair passing therethrough, and/or a
confinement system that operates by projecting compressed air so as
to return particles back towards the enclosure at the openings
through which the hair passes.
[0124] The appliance may serve simultaneously to abrade hair and to
apply a cosmetic treatment composition.
[0125] The appliance may include a heater system, e.g. in order to
shape the hair after abrasion.
[0126] The enclosure may have an open position in which it is
possible to place a portion of a mesh of hair therein, and a closed
position in which the hair may be abraded.
[0127] By way of example, the enclosure may comprise two shells
that are secured to each other in at least one zone, for example,
but that are movable relative to each other so as to be capable of
taking up an open, first configuration and a closed, second
configuration in which the two shells are secured to each other in
at least two zones.
[0128] The enclosure may present a cylindrical shape that is open
at both ends of the cylinder so as to allow a mesh of hair to pass
therethrough. The empty volume of the enclosure for receiving the
hair may present a section that is circular, rectangular, oval, or
other.
[0129] While abrasion is taking place, the enclosure may be moved,
e.g. by the user, along the mesh of hair being treated, e.g. from
the roots towards the ends of the hair, without abrasion being
interrupted so as to treat the mesh of hair over its entire length,
for example, or at least over a fraction of its length that is
greater than the length of the enclosure. In a variant, the
appliance may require abrasion to be interrupted in order to move
the enclosure. Under such circumstances, abrasion may take place
inside the enclosure without moving the enclosure along the hair
while the hair is being impacted by the particles.
[0130] The enclosure may include portions in relief, in particular
teeth, that are arranged to enable the hair to be combed.
Hair-Care Composition with Abrasive Particles
[0131] Independently from the above, the abrasion means may include
a hair-care composition containing abrasive particles, which
composition is applied to the hair so as to abrade it.
[0132] Under such circumstances, the abrasive particles may be of
mean size greater than or equal to 50 .mu.m, in particular greater
than or equal to 100 .mu.m. The abrasive particles may have a mean
size less than or equal to 500 .mu.m, or better less than or equal
to 300 .mu.m.
[0133] The capillary composition may include abrasive solid
particles at a concentration lying in the range 0.1% to 20%, in
particular 5% to 20%, better 10% to 20%, better still 15% to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] In addition to solid particles, the hair-care composition
may include one or more additives.
[0135] The hair-care composition may also include one or more
additional surfactants such as surfactants that are anionic,
amphoteric, zwitterionic, or non-ionic.
[0136] The surfactant(s) is/are preferably selected from non-ionic
surfactants. Non-ionic surfactant agents are compounds that are
themselves well known (in this respect see in particular "Handbook
of surfactants" by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son
(Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178), and in the context of the
present invention the nature of the surfactants is not critical.
Thus, they may be selected in particular from alcohols,
alpha-diols, and polyethoxyl and polypropoxyl alkylphenols having
fatty chains containing 8 to 18 atoms of carbon, for example, with
the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups lying in
particular in the range 2 to 50, this list not being limiting.
Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of
propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide
on fatty alcohols; polyethoxyl fatty amines preferably having 2 to
30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerol fatty amides having on
average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular having 1.5 to 4
glycerol groups; fatty acid esters of oxyethylene sorbitan having 2
to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty
acid esters of polyethyleneglycol, alkylpolyglycosides, derivatives
of N-alkyl glucamine, amine oxides such as (C.sub.10-C.sub.14)
amine alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0137] The non-ionic surfactant(s) may be present in the hair-care
composition at a concentration lying in the range 0.1% to 25% by
weight, preferably in the range 1% to 20% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition.
[0138] Concerning amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, mention
may be made, and without any intention of being limited thereto, of
aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives in which the
aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain having 8 to 18
carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic
group (e.g. carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or
phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C.sub.8-C.sub.28) alkyl
betaines, sulfobetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20) alkyl (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)
amidoalkyl betaines, or (C.sub.8-C.sub.20) alkyl (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)
amidoalkyl sulfobetaines.
[0139] Amongst amine derivatives, mention may be made of the
products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat.
Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the 1982 3rd edition
of the CTFA dictionary under the names amphocarboxyglycinates and
amphocarboxypropionates having the following respective
structures:
R.sub.2--CONHCH.sub.2CH.sub.2--N(R.sub.3)(R.sub.4)(CH.sub.2COO--)
in which:
[0140] R.sub.2 designates an alkyl radical of an R.sub.2--COOH acid
present in hydrolyzed coprah oil, a heptyl, nonyl, or undecyl
radical, R.sub.3 designates a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and R.sub.4
designates a carboxymethyl group; and
R.sub.2'--CONHCH.sub.2CH.sub.2--N(B)(C)
in which:
[0141] B represents --CH.sub.2CH.sub.2OX';
[0142] C represents --(CHO.sub.z--Y' with z=1 or 2;
[0143] X' designates the group --CH.sub.2CH.sub.2--COOH or a
hydrogen atom;
[0144] Y' designates --COOH or the --CH.sub.2CHOH--SO.sub.3H
radical; and
[0145] R.sub.2' designates an alkyl radical of an R.sub.9--COOH
acid present in coprah oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl
radical, in particular a C.sub.7, C.sub.9, C.sub.11, or C.sub.13
radical, a C.sub.17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated
C.sub.17 radical.
[0146] These compounds are classified in the 1993, 5th edition of
the CTFA dictionary under the names: disodium cocoamphodiacetate,
disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate,
disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium ocoamphodipropionate,
disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho-dipropionate,
disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid,
cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium cocoamphocarboxylethyl
hydroxypropyl sulfonate.
[0147] By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate
sold under the trade name concentrated Miranol.RTM. C2M by the
supplier Rhodia Chimie.
[0148] Concerning anionic surfactants, mention may be made in
non-limiting manner of the salts of the following compounds (and in
particular alkaline salts, in particular of sodium, ammonium salts,
amine salts, aminoalcohol salts, or magnesium salts):
alkylsulfates, alkylethersulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates,
alkylarylpolethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates,
alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates,
.alpha.-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)
alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C.sub.6-C.sub.24) alkyl
ethersulfosuccinates, (C.sub.6-C.sub.24) alkyl
amidesulfosucccinates; (C.sub.6-C.sub.24) alkyl sulfoacetates;
(C.sub.6-C.sub.24) acyl sarcosinates, and (C.sub.6-C.sub.24) alkyl
glutamates. It is also possible to use esters of (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)
alkyl carboxylic polyglycosides such as alkylglycoside citrates,
alkylpolyglycoside tartrates, and alkylpolyglycoside
sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and
N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radicals of all of the various
compounds preferably having 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl
radicals, preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group. Amongst
anionic surfactants that are also usable, mention may also be made
of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic,
palmitic, and stearic acids, acids of coprah oil, or of
hydrogeneated coprah oil; acyl-lactylates with an acyl radical
having 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use alkyl D
galactoside uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated
(C.sub.6-C.sub.24) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated
(C.sub.6-C.sub.24) alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids,
polyoxyalkylenated (C.sub.6-C.sub.24) alkyl amido ether carboxylic
acids and their salts, in particular such as those having 2 to 50
alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, and
mixtures thereof.
[0149] The anionic surfactants possibly present are preferably soft
anionic surfactants.
[0150] Concerning soft anionic surfactants, mention may be made in
particular of the following compounds and their salts, together
with mixtures thereof: [0151] polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether
carboxylic acids; [0152] polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether
carboxylic acids; [0153] polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether
carboxylic acids, in particular those having 2 to 50 ethylene oxide
groups; [0154] alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids; [0155]
acylsarcosinates, acylgutamates; and [0156] esters of carboxylic
alkylpolyglycosides.
[0157] Most particularly, use be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl
ether carboxylic acids such as for example the (4.5 OE) lauryl
ether carboxylic acid sold for example under the name Akypo RLM 45
CA by KAO.
[0158] If such anionic or amphoteric surfactants are present, then
their content lies in the range 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to
the total weight of the hair-care composition, and more
particularly 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
[0159] Preferably, the hair-care composition does not contain any
sulfate type anionic detergent surfactant (alkysulfate or
alkylether sulfate, alkylamidoether sulfate). If it does contain
any, its content is such that the weight ratio of alkyl sulfate or
alkyl ether sulfate type anionic detergent over the sum of
amphoteric, zwitterionic, soft anionic, and non-ionic surfactants
is preferably less than or equal to 1, and more particularly less
than or equal to 0.75, and still more preferentially less than or
equal to 0.5.
[0160] The hair-care composition may also include additives that
are conventional in the field such as, for example, additives
selected from the following non-exhaustive list such as: reducing
agents, oxidizing agents, sequestering agents, softening agents,
anti-foaming agents, hydrating agents, emollient agents,
alkalinizing agents, plasticizing agents, sunscreens, direct or
oxidation dyes, fragrances, peptizing agents, preservatives,
optionally-fixing polymers, proteins, vitamins, antidandruff
agents, anti-hair loss agents, optionally-associative thickening
polymers, fatty amides, fatty ethers, fatty alcohols, etc.
[0161] The above-mentioned additives are generally present in
quantities lying for each of them in the range 0.01% to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0162] It should be observed that if the hair-care composition
includes one or more thickening agents, their content may lie in
the range 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the
hair-care composition, preferably 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to
the weight of the hair-care composition.
[0163] The hair-care composition may include one or more
conditioning agents.
[0164] When the hair-care composition contains at least one
conditioning agent, it may be selected from synthetic oils such as
poly-.alpha.-olefins, fluorinated oils, fluorinated waxes,
fluorinated gums, esters of carboxylic acids, cationic polymers,
cationic surfactants, silicones, mineral, vegetable, or animal
oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, and mixtures thereof.
[0165] Amongst cationic polymers that are suitable for use, it is
preferred to use ether derivatives of quaternary cellulose such as
the products sold under the name JR 400 by the supplier Amerchol,
cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of
dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the names Merquat.RTM.
100, Merquat.RTM. 500, and Merquat.RTM. S by the supplier Nalco,
cationic polysaccharides such as guar gums modified by a salt of
2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium, quaternary polymers of
vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] Amongst cationic surfactants, mention may be made in
particular of the following (this list not being limiting):
primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally
polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as
tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyl-trialkylammonium,
trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium, or
alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; derivatives of imidazoline;
or oxides of cationic amines.
[0167] As preferred cationic surfactants, mention may be made in
particular of Quaternium-87, sold by the supplier Degussa under the
reference Varisoft W 575 PG, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride
sold by the supplier Clariant under the reference Genamin KDMP.
[0168] The content of conditioning agents in the hair-care
composition may lie in the range 0.001% to 10% by weight,
preferably in the range 0.005% to 5% by weight, and still more
preferably in the range 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight
of the final composition.
[0169] The acceptable aqueous medium for hair may comprise water or
a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents that are
acceptable for cosmetics.
[0170] By way of example, the water content of the composition may
be greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[0171] As an organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of
preferably-saturated, linear or branched monoalcohols having 2 to
10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol; aromatic
alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or
ethers of polyols such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and
monobutyl ethers of ethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol or ethers
thereof such as, for example, propyleneglycol monomethylether,
butyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, (2-methyl2,4-pentanediol)
hexyleneglycol, neopentylglycol, and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; and
also alkylethers of diethyleneglycol, in particular in a
C.sub.1-C.sub.4 configuration, such as for example monoethylether
or monobutylether of diethyleneglycol, alone or in a mixture.
[0172] The organic solvent(s) may be present in proportions lying
for example in the range 1% to 40% approximately by weight relative
to the total weight of the hair-care composition, and still more
preferably in the range 5% to 30% approximately by weight.
[0173] The hair-care composition of the invention may be present in
various galenic dosage forms such as a lotion, a shampoo, a gel, a
cream, or a wax. The hair-care composition may be packaged in any
type of container, optionally with an applicator. The container may
contain a ball or a member serving in particular to make the
hair-care composition uniform prior to being applied to the hair.
The container containing the hair-care composition may have a
capacity that is greater than or equal to 15 mL, in particular
greater than or equal to 50 mL, or indeed 100 mL, and in particular
it may be greater than or equal to 150 mL, e.g. lying in the range
15 mL to 500 mL.
[0174] The abrasive hair-care composition may impregnate a
wipe.
[0175] The abrasive hair-care composition may be introduced in a
stream of a vector fluid, e.g. by the Venturi effect, in order to
be projected onto the hair.
[0176] In a particular implementation, the hair-care composition
may be contained in a container of a comb or a brush that, for
example, presents orifices at the base of its teeth or bristles
serving to feed the composition and apply it to the hair.
Cosmetic Treatment Composition
[0177] The treatment composition may be a cosmetic, in particular a
care product and/or a composition for coloring or bleaching the
hair, a conditioner, a permanent wave, a straightening composition,
or a composition for bleaching or coloring the hair.
[0178] The term "cosmetic composition" covers any "cosmetic
product" as defined in the Jun. 14, 1993 Council Directive
93/35/EEC.
[0179] For a hair-care composition that includes abrasive
particles, the treatment composition may constitute the hair-care
composition. In a variant, the treatment composition may be applied
to the hair before and/or after abrasion thereof using the
hair-care composition.
[0180] By way of example, the treatment composition may be selected
from the following, this list not being limiting: [0181]
compositions seeking to modify the mechanical properties of hair,
in particular including a reducing action such as thioglycolic acid
and derivatives thereof, cysteine, sulfite, soda, guanidine
carbonate, trihydroxymethyl phosphine, or an oxidant such as
H.sub.2O.sub.2, persulfate; [0182] emollient or penetration
compositions, e.g. including a solvent, a glycol, a plasticizing
agent, or a cationic, anionic, or amphoteric surfactant; [0183]
compositions that modify the surface properties of hair, in
particular including a silicone, a reactive amino silicone, an
adhesive polymer, a non-silicone lubricant including fats selected
from vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, waxes, in
particular fatty alcohols or fatty esters; [0184] compositions for
restructuring the insides of hairs, e.g. including an ionene, a
protein, a hydroxy acid, or a reactive compound, in particular a
generator of formol, a silane; and [0185] dyes that are direct or
that act on oxidation.
[0186] The treatment composition may be applied prior to abrasion
and may contribute to protecting the hair during abrasion so as to
avoid excessive abrasion.
[0187] The treatment composition may form a sheath on the hair. The
abrasion may remove the excess portion of this sheath, which is
smoothed onto the hair. The material forming the sheath may thus
remain in the hollow portions in relief of the hair.
[0188] A first treatment composition may be applied prior to
abrasion, in particular a reducing composition, and a second
treatment composition may be applied after abrasion, in particular
an oxidizing composition, e.g. for the purpose of durably modifying
the shape of the hair.
[0189] In an implementation of the invention that involves applying
a treatment composition on the hair prior to putting it into
contact with the abrasive surface, the treatment composition is
applied to the hair which is then allowed to dry.
[0190] The composition may be packaged in any leaktight packaging
means, e.g. defined by a bottle, a tube, a sachet, an ampoule, or
any other container. The container containing the treatment
composition may have a capacity greater than or equal to 15
milliliters (mL) in particular greater than or equal to 50 mL, or
indeed 100 mL, in particular greater than or equal to 150 mL, e.g.
lying in the range 15 mL to 500 mL. The packaging means may
optionally be provided to be suitable for reclosing and may for
example include a stopper capable of being fastened on a dispenser
opening, or a valve that opens under pressure from the composition
while it is being dispensed. The composition may also be packaged
in a device that enables it to be dispensed by spraying.
Treatment Method
[0191] The duration for which a portion of hair is abraded may for
example lie in the range 1 ms to several minutes, in particular in
the range 0.1 s to 60 s, which duration may depend for example on
the intensity of the abrasion and the state of the hair.
[0192] The number of passes of the surfaces facing the hair, e.g.
in a longitudinal direction from the roots towards the ends of the
hair, may lie in the range 1 to 100, and in particular in the range
1 to 10.
[0193] The hair may be treated from the roots to the ends, or
otherwise.
[0194] The abrasion may be performed transversely or longitudinally
relative to the hair, in particular when the abrasion means
comprise at least one abrasive surface or a hair-care
composition.
[0195] In addition to the steps of abrading the hair and applying a
hair-care composition, the method of the invention may also include
one or more other steps.
[0196] The treatment method may be implemented after a step of
characterizing the hair, e.g. examining it with the naked eye or
with a magnifier device or using an instrument, e.g. by recording
the sound produced by passing a comb through the hair using a sound
meter or by optically determining the sheen of the hair. The hair
may also be characterized by applying a chemical reaction to a
sample of hair.
[0197] Prior to bringing the hair into contact with the abrasive
surface(s), it may optionally be wetted. If the hair is wetted
and/or if the method is implemented in a shower or a bath, and when
the abrasion means comprise at least one abrasive surface, the
medium may be suitable for withstanding water, e.g. not dispersing
on contact with water. The medium may in particular be waterproof
and/or non-porous.
[0198] The hair may be rinsed and/or combed after the abrasion
treatment.
[0199] After abrading the hair, it is possible to monitor the
extent to which it has been smoothed, e.g. by visual examination
with the naked eye or using a magnifier device or using an
instrument.
[0200] The method of the invention may also include the step
consisting in heating the hair in contact with the abrasive surface
to a temperature lying in the range 40.degree. C. to 250.degree.
C., in particular in the range 60.degree. C. to 210.degree. C.,
e.g. during or after abrasion of the hair. For example, the hair
may be heated after the abrasion so as to shape it.
[0201] The hair may be subjected to acoustic impacts, in particular
using ultrasound or infrasound, e.g. before, during, or after
abrasion of the hair, where appropriate. After the hair has been
abraded, this may serve to detach solid particles and possibly
other particles or deposits that are present on the hair.
[0202] It is also possible to subject the hair to treatment by
exposure to an intense light beam, e.g. from a laser delivering
pulses of short duration, where such pulses may serve to bleach the
hair.
[0203] With one or more abrasive surfaces, the hair may be pressed
against the abrasive surface(s) and said surface(s) may be the only
surface(s) coming into contact with the hair each time the method
is implemented.
[0204] The method of the invention need not include a combing step.
In a variant, at least one of the surfaces may comprise or be
constituted by a plurality of teeth or bristles or may have teeth
or bristles secured thereto.
[0205] Independently, or in combination with the above, when used
with a hair-care composition, the abrasion of the hair may take
place immediately after the composition has been applied to the
hair, e.g. within a period of less than one hour, in particular
less than 30 minutes (min), or indeed 10 min after application of
the hair-care composition to the hair. If rinsing is performed, it
may take place quickly after the hair has been abraded. The time
between applying the composition and rinsing the hair may for
example be less than 4 hours (h), in particular less than 1 h, e.g.
less than 20 min.
[0206] The step of abrading the hair may be performed by rubbing
the hair with the bare hands and interposing between the hands and
the hair at least one surface loaded with hair-care composition,
e.g. a wipe or a towel, a glove, etc. The abrasion may be performed
other than with the help of a comb or a brush.
[0207] By way of example, the hair may be abraded using at least
one surface that is set into motion, in particular into vibration
or rotation, by means of a mechanical system. The surface(s) may be
set into vibration by means of at least one vibration source that
may be arranged in various ways. By way of example, the vibration
source may be arranged within the appliance to cause the entire
appliance to vibrate, by way of example the vibration source may be
located close to a surface that is to come into contact with the
hair, e.g. in a branch of the appliance.
[0208] By way of example, the vibration source may comprise an
eccentric flyweight driven in rotation by an electric motor at a
speed that may be constant or variable depending on whether it is
desired for the frequency of vibration to be constant or variable.
The orientation of the axis of rotation of the motor may enable the
direction of vibration to be selected.
[0209] With a vibration source constituted by a flyweight driven in
rotation by an electric motor, the surface(s) for coming into
contact with the hair may vibrate with the same amplitude as the
portions of the appliance that support them. It is also possible
for the vibration source to be located in the appliance in such a
manner as to drive motion of at least one surface relative to a
portion supporting that surface. For example, the surface that is
to come into contact with the hair may be mounted so as to be
capable of sliding between two extreme positions, and the vibration
source may move said surface back and forth relative to the portion
that supports it, e.g. by means of a crank system so as to
transform rotary motion of an electric motor into axial oscillating
motion of the surface. The frequency of oscillation of the surface
depends on the speed of rotation of the motor, said speed of
rotation being constant or adjustable by the user. The mechanical
system may include a single oscillating surface, or in a variant it
may have two facing surfaces capable of oscillating in the same
direction or in opposite directions, or of oscillating
independently of each other, at the same frequency or at different
frequencies, with the same amplitude or with different amplitudes.
The mechanical system may include an electric, hydraulic,
pneumatic, or other motor. The mechanical system may comprise a
piezoelectric transducer or a motor provided with an eccentric
flyweight for creating vibration of the surface.
[0210] By way of example, the abrasion treatment using the
hair-care composition may be performed, e.g. by hand, on a mesh by
mesh basis, e.g. using two motions: a first motion referred to as
"tangential" motion, i.e. extending substantially along the hair,
e.g. from the roots to the ends, and a second motion referred to as
"shear" motion, i.e. substantially orthogonally to the hair, in a
direction transverse thereto. Both motions may be repeated several
times, e.g. at least five times, e.g. ten times. In a variant, only
one of the above-mentioned motions need be performed, and
optionally repeated several times. Independently of the motion
performed, the number of passes over a mesh may for example be
greater than five passes, in particular it may lie in the range 6
to 100, e.g. in the range 6 to 10.
[0211] The duration of the abrasion by means of the composition
including the solid particles may depend, for example, on the
intensity desired for the abrasion and on the state of the
hair.
[0212] The method of the invention may comprise two abrasion steps
using two hair-care compositions that are applied in succession,
each composition including abrasive solid particles, with the mean
dimensions of the solid particles of the two hair-care compositions
being different. For example, the mean dimension of the solid
particles of the first hair-care composition to be applied may be
greater than that of the solid particles of the second hair-care
composition to be applied.
[0213] A single container may contain both hair-care compositions
in separate packaging, or two separate containers may each contain
one of the hair-care compositions.
[0214] Another mode of packaging may consist in a container
containing a basic hair-care composition having no solid particles,
which particles are packaged separately, e.g. in at least two
separate compartments, depending on their grain size. Under such
circumstances, before abrading the hair, the user selects which
solid particles are to be mixed with the basic composition in order
to form the first hair-care composition, with the mixing being
performed by the user or within the container. After the first
abrasion step, the user may perform a second abrasion step, this
time mixing the other solid particles with the basic hair-care
composition in order to form the second hair-care composition.
Rinsing may be performed between and/or after the two abrasion
steps. Abrasion with the hair-care composition need not modify the
color of the hair.
[0215] The treatment method may be implemented after a step of
characterizing the hair, e.g. by visually examining the hair with
the naked eye or using a magnifier device or by means of an
instrument, e.g. by recording the sound produced by moving a comb
through the hair by using a sound meter or by optically determining
the sheen of the hair. Characterization of the hair may also
involve applying a chemical reagent to a sample of hair.
[0216] The method of the invention may include the step consisting
in combing and/or rinsing the hair after applying the hair-care
composition. The rinsing may be performed with water.
[0217] After abrading the hair, it is possible to monitor the
degree of smoothing obtained, e.g. by visual examination with the
naked eye or using a magnifying device or by means of an
instrument.
[0218] The method of the invention may also include the step
consisting in heating the hair before or after putting it into
contact with the hair-care composition, e.g. to a temperature lying
in the range 40.degree. C. to 250.degree. C., in particular in the
range 60.degree. C. to 220.degree. C. By way of example, the hair
may be heated after abrasion so as to be shaped, e.g. by
blow-drying. By way of example, the hair may be heated by means of
an iron, a mixture of liquid water and steam, or by means of a
heating helmet.
[0219] The hair may be dried completely or partially.
Hair Treatment Kit
[0220] In another of its aspects, independently or in combination
with the above, the present invention also provides a hair
treatment kit comprising: [0221] abrasion means enabling the hair
to be abraded; and [0222] one or more cosmetic treatment
compositions for hair.
[0223] The abrasion means may comprise at least one medium defining
at least one abrasive surface as defined above that is set into
motion manually or mechanically. The abrasion means may comprise
one or more abrasive surfaces and/or an appliance including a
mechanical system as described above. Where appropriate, all of the
surfaces may be abrasive, and the abrasive surfaces may be as
described above.
[0224] In a variant, the abrasion means may comprise an appliance
for projecting abrasive particles against the hair, as described
above.
[0225] In another variant, the abrasion means may comprise a
hair-care composition as applied above.
[0226] The kit may further comprise at least one other medium
and/or instructions mentioning, or explaining, hair abrasion
treatment with the help of the kit.
[0227] The treatment composition may also be as defined above.
[0228] When present, the medium may be packaged separately from the
composition, within the kit. In a variant, the medium may be
pre-impregnated with the composition.
[0229] All of the parts of the kit may be proposed to the user
within a common package, e.g. in a blister, a bag, a box, a case,
or some other container.
[0230] The kit may also include a tool or advice on evaluating hair
before and/or after treatment.
[0231] Independently or in combination with the above, the
invention also provides a hair treatment kit comprising, within a
packaging device: [0232] a hair-care composition including abrasive
solid particles preferably of mean dimension greater than or equal
to 50 .mu.m, in particular greater than or equal to 100 .mu.m, in
particular lying in the range 100 .mu.m to 500 .mu.m; [0233]
optionally a medium including instructions for use of the hair-care
composition on the hair for the purpose of abrading the hair; and
[0234] a composition for post-treatment of the hair.
[0235] The hair-care composition with abrasive particles may be as
described above.
[0236] The abrasive solid particles may be at a concentration lying
in the range 0.1% to 20%, in particular 5% to 20%, better 10% to
20%, better still 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight
of the hair-care composition.
[0237] The post-treatment composition may be selected from a
conditioner, a permanent wave, a straightening composition, and a
composition for coloring or for bleaching the hair. The
post-treatment composition may for example be selected from the
above-described treatment compositions.
[0238] Independently or in combination with the above, the
invention also provides a hair treatment kit comprising, within a
packaging device: [0239] a hair-care composition including abrasive
solid particles of mean dimension greater than or equal to 50
.mu.m, in particular greater than or equal to 100 .mu.m, in
particular lying in the range 100 .mu.m to 500 .mu.m; and [0240] a
medium including instructions for use of the hair-care composition
on the hair for the purpose of abrading the hair.
[0241] The hair-care composition may be as described above.
[0242] The abrasive solid particles may be at a content lying in
the range 0.1% to 20%, in particular 5% to 20%, better 10% to 20%,
better still 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of
the hair-care composition.
[0243] The kit may also include a post-treatment composition for
hair. The post-treatment composition may be selected from a
conditioner, a permanent wave, a straightening composition, a
coloring composition, or a bleaching composition for hair. By way
of example, the post-treatment composition may be selected from
those mentioned above.
[0244] The invention can be better understood on reading the
following description of non-limiting embodiments thereof, and on
examining the accompanying drawings, in which:
[0245] FIG. 1 shows a kit comprising two surfaces for implementing
the method of the invention;
[0246] FIG. 2 shows the method being implemented using the surfaces
of FIG. 1;
[0247] FIG. 3 shows a clamp including an abrasive-surface
medium;
[0248] FIG. 4 shows a kit in accordance with another aspect of the
invention;
[0249] FIG. 5 is a diagrammatic section view showing an example of
an abrasive-surface medium of the invention;
[0250] FIGS. 6 to 9 are diagrammatic and fragmentary section views
of other example media;
[0251] FIG. 10 is a diagrammatic and fragmentary face view of
another example medium;
[0252] FIG. 11 is a diagrammatic and fragmentary section view of
another example medium;
[0253] FIGS. 12 and 13 are diagrams showing respective combs each
including an abrasive-surface medium;
[0254] FIG. 14 is a diagram showing a container for a hair
treatment composition, the container including an abrasive
surface;
[0255] FIG. 15 is a diagrammatic perspective view of an example of
an appliance for implementing the method of the invention;
[0256] FIGS. 16 and 17 are diagrammatic and fragmentary perspective
views showing an example of using the FIG. 15 appliance;
[0257] FIG. 18 is a diagrammatic and fragmentary view of another
abrasive-surface example;
[0258] FIG. 19 is a diagrammatic view of another example of an
appliance in use;
[0259] FIG. 20 is a diagrammatic view of another example of an
appliance in use;
[0260] FIG. 21 is a diagrammatic view of another example of an
appliance in use;
[0261] FIG. 22 is a diagrammatic and fragmentary section view of
another example of an appliance for implementing the method of the
invention;
[0262] FIGS. 23 and 24 are diagrammatic and fragmentary views
showing two examples of how abrasive surfaces may be sent into
movement;
[0263] FIG. 25 is a diagrammatic view of another example of
implementing the hair treatment method of the invention;
[0264] FIG. 26 is a diagrammatic and fragmentary section view of
another example of an appliance for abrading hair, in accordance
with the invention;
[0265] FIG. 27 is a diagrammatic and fragmentary perspective view
showing the operation of the FIG. 26 appliance;
[0266] FIG. 28 is a view similar to that of FIG. 26 showing the
FIG. 26 appliance in operation;
[0267] FIG. 29 is a diagrammatic and fragmentary axial section view
of another example of an appliance in accordance with the
invention;
[0268] FIGS. 30 to 32 are diagrammatic axial section views of
examples of appliance enclosures for implementing the
invention;
[0269] FIGS. 33 and 34 are diagrammatic and fragmentary section
views of other appliances in accordance with the invention while in
use;
[0270] FIGS. 35 and 36 are atomic force microscopy (AFM)
photographs of portions of hair respectively before and after
treating hair using the method of the invention; and
[0271] FIG. 37 is a diagrammatic and fragmentary view of another
example of an appliance in accordance with the invention.
[0272] FIG. 1 shows a kit 1 (having packaging that is not shown in
the figure) that comprises two surfaces 5 and 6, the surface 5
being abrasive and the surface 6 being non-abrasive, for example.
The kit 1 is arranged to implement the method of the invention. The
surfaces 5 and 6 constitute abrasion means that enable hair to be
abraded manually.
[0273] The abrasive surface 5 is defined by a medium 7 that is
made, in the example described, of a flexible material, such as a
non-woven fabric, for example. In the example shown, the abrasive
surface 5 includes abrasive particles 8, in particular particles of
alumina of hardness equal to 9 on the Mohs scale, which particles
are fastened, e.g. adhesively bonded, on the medium 7 to form the
abrasive surface 5.
[0274] By way of example, the non-abrasive surface 6 is defined by
a medium 7 that is identical to the medium of the abrasive surface
5 but without the abrasive particles. The non-abrasive surface 6 in
the example described is impregnated with a hair treatment
composition.
[0275] The hair treatment method may be implemented using the kit 1
of FIG. 1 as follows.
[0276] The operator takes the media 7 between the hands M so as to
hold a mesh of hair C captive between the facing abrasive and
non-abrasive surfaces 5 and 6, as shown in FIG. 2.
[0277] The user may then move the hands back-and-forth
substantially transversely relative to the hair, so as to abrade
the hair C against the surfaces 5 and 6.
[0278] The operator may move the media 7 little by little along the
hair, e.g. substantially all the way along the mesh of hair C so as
to abrade the hair over its entire length, without interrupting the
back-and-forth sideways motion. In a variant, the operator may
abrade the hair over a portion of the mesh and then move the media
7 along the mesh and repeat the abrading motion, which motion is
interrupted while the media 7 are being moved along the hair.
[0279] The operator may start from the roots of the hair and go
towards the ends.
[0280] During the treatment, the hair is smoothed by the abrasive
surface 5, while the treatment composition is deposited on the hair
by the surface 6.
[0281] In a variant, or in addition, the operator may perform
longitudinal motion along the hair, e.g. moving the media 7 from
the roots of the hair towards the ends. The operator may perform
one or more passages between the roots towards the ends in order to
abrade the hair, e.g. 1 to 100 passes, in particular 1 to 10
passes.
[0282] By way of example, such motion may be performed using a
device as shown in FIG. 3. The device is constituted by a
scissors-like clamp having two hinged branches 12 having the media
7 fastened thereto, each of said media defining or not defining an
abrasive surface. The operator holds the clamp by inserting fingers
in openings 11 provided for this purpose, and can move the branches
12 apart or towards each other.
[0283] By way of example, the abrasive surface 5 is of the same
type as that described above. By way of example, the surface 6 is
non-abrasive and may include flocking. The non-abrasive surface 6
may be impregnated with a treatment composition. In a variant, the
operator may pour the treatment composition onto the hair or onto
the surface 6 prior to treating the hair.
[0284] In this example, at least the medium 7 of the abrasive
surface 5 and possibly also the medium of the non-abrasive surface
6 is releasably fastened to the corresponding branch 12, e.g. by
means of a hook-and-loop or Velcro.RTM. type connection. This
enables the media 7 to be replaced between uses.
[0285] The clamp may optionally include means arranged for
controlling and/or indicating the pressure exerted on the hair,
e.g. a spring and a dynamometer.
[0286] It would not go beyond the ambit of the invention for the
non-abrasive surface 6 to be defined by a foam, an elastomer
coating, or some other surface.
[0287] FIG. 4 shows the possibility of making a kit 1 in accordance
with the invention that differs from the kit of FIG. 1 in that the
surfaces for coming into contact with the hair in this kit are both
abrasive. These surfaces include abrasive particles 8 that are
fastened on the medium 7, e.g. by adhesive.
[0288] As shown, the kit also includes a treatment composition 10
e.g. packaged in a container, e.g. presenting content of 250
mL.
[0289] By way of example, the treatment method using the kit 1 of
FIG. 4 comprises steps consisting in performing abrasion as shown
in FIG. 2 with the two abrasive surfaces 5 and 6. Before, during,
and/or after abrading the hair, the user applies the treatment
composition 10 to one of the abrasive surfaces or directly to the
hair.
[0290] Optionally, the hair may be moistened before abrasion and
the hair may also be rinsed after abrasion, e.g. prior to applying
the composition 10.
[0291] By way of example, the composition 10 is applied after
rinsing the hair and may include an agent for restructuring the
insides of hairs, e.g. including a reagent such as a silane.
[0292] The kit may also include instructions informing the user how
to use the abrasive medium or media for smoothing the hair.
[0293] By way of example, the media shown in FIGS. 1 to 4 are made
of flexible materials or are of a thickness that imparts a certain
amount of flexibility thereto.
[0294] In a variant, as shown in FIG. 5, the medium 7 may be hard,
with the medium having a modulus of elasticity lying in the range 1
GPa to 4 GPa, for example, and it may include abrasive particles
for making the surface 5 abrasive. By way of example, the abrasive
particles are bonded onto the medium 7 using an adhesive 15. By way
of example the medium 7 is made of a relatively hard thermoplastic
material such as PEHT.
[0295] As an alternative to adhesive, the abrasive particles 8 may
be dispersed in the medium 7 in the form of a filler, as shown in
FIG. 6. This figure also shows the possibility of making the medium
7 with two opposite abrasive surfaces.
[0296] FIG. 7 shows the possibility of implementing the method with
portions in relief 30 such as teeth projecting from the abrasive
surface 5. These portions in relief 30 may guide individual hairs
over the abrasive surface 5. The portions in relief 30 may be
abrasive or non-abrasive. The portions in relief 30 may be made on
the non-abrasive surface 6, where appropriate.
[0297] The portions in relief may be made by being molded
integrally with the medium 7 carrying the abrasive particles, or in
a variant with an element that carries the medium 7, e.g. one of
the branches of the clamp shown in FIG. 3.
[0298] When the medium is hard, it may include a structure that is
arranged to enable the surface 5 to be abrasive, in particular it
may comprise sintered material, as shown in FIG. 8.
[0299] In a variant, when the medium is hard, the abrasive surface
5 may include roughnesses, e.g. spikes 16 as shown in FIG. 9,
scratches 17 as shown in FIG. 10 or crenellations 18 as shown in
FIG. 11. Such roughnesses may be formed during fabrication of the
medium 7, in particular for the spikes, or they may be etched or
molded after fabricating the medium, in particular for the
scratches or the crenellations. The roughnesses may present a depth
lying in the range 0.1 .mu.m to 500 .mu.m.
[0300] The medium or media 7 may be detachably fastened to a
hair-care device, e.g. a comb as shown in FIGS. 12 and 37, a brush,
or an outside wall of a container containing a hair-care
composition, as shown in FIG. 14. Releasable fastening may be
obtained, for example, by using fastener means of the Velcro.RTM.
type or by a re-positionable adhesive.
[0301] The surfaces that come into contact with the hair may form
part of two separate media as shown in FIGS. 1 to 4, or they may
belong to a single medium that is folded in half to perform the
treatment, for example.
[0302] In the embodiments shown in FIGS. 1 to 4, the abrasion means
enable hair to be abraded manually. In a variant, the abrasion
means may be motor-driven. By way of example, FIG. 15 shows
motor-driven abrasion such as an appliance 100 including a
mechanical system for implementing the method of the invention.
[0303] The appliance 100 extends generally along an axis X and
includes a handle member 102 and a clamp 103 having two hinged
branches 104. On a face facing the other branch, each branch 104 is
provided with a medium 107 defining a surface that is to come into
contact with the hair.
[0304] In the example shown, the branch 104a includes a medium 107
defining an abrasive surface 105, while the branch 104b of the
clamp 103 presents a non-abrasive surface 106.
[0305] The handle member 102 houses a mechanical system, e.g.
including an electric motor (not shown in the figures) suitable for
vibrating the abrasive surface 105 in the example described. The
abrasive surface(s) may be set into vibration by means of at least
one source of vibration housed in the appliance. The appliance is
set into motion by pressing on a control button 110.
[0306] The frequency of the vibration may be modified by the user
using an adjustment knob 111 movable past various graduations
112.
[0307] A slider 114 may also serve to select the amplitude of the
vibration.
[0308] In the example shown, the medium 107 defining the abrasive
surface is made of a flexible material, e.g. comprising a woven
fabric, having abrasive particles 108 fastened thereto, e.g. by
adhesive, e.g. solid alumina particles of spherical shape having
hardness equal to 9 on the Mohs scale and having a diameter of
about 8 .mu.m. It would not go beyond the ambit of the invention
for the abrasive surface 105 to be similar to one of the abrasive
surfaces 5 described with reference to FIGS. 5 to 11, for
example.
[0309] The medium 107 defining the abrasive surface 105 is fastened
to the branch 104a, e.g. releasably, e.g. by means of hooks or by
means of a Velcro.RTM. type fastener so as to enable the medium to
be changed, e.g. if the abrasive surface becomes worn after one or
more uses.
[0310] The width of the abrasive surface 5 may lie in the range 1
cm to 5 cm, and its length may lie in the range 1 cm to 10 cm.
[0311] The surface 106 does not have abrasive properties, since it
does not include abrasive particles.
[0312] The surface 106 may be filled with a hair treatment
composition. By way of example, the composition may be brought to a
dispenser orifice located in the surface 106 or in the proximity
thereof, for example, by any means such as gravity, capillarity, or
a pump, e.g. an electrical pump or a manual pump driven by the
user. In a variant, in order to implement the step of applying a
treatment composition in the method of the invention, the user may
pour the composition contained in a container of the type shown in
FIG. 4 directly on the hair, for example. The treatment composition
may be applied before, after, or during abrasion of the hair.
[0313] In order to use the appliance of FIG. 15, the procedure is
as follows.
[0314] The branches 104a and 104b of the clamp 103 are moved apart,
as shown in FIG. 16, so as to enable an optionally-wet mesh of hair
C to be slid between the abrasive and non-abrasive surfaces 105 and
106 of the clamp 103, with the number of hairs that are treated at
the same time in a mesh of hair lying for example in the range 100
to 5000.
[0315] The clamp 103 is reclosed so as to hold the mesh of hair C
captive, it being possible for the branches 104a and 104b to be
urged towards each other by resilient return action, e.g. coming
from the presence of a resilient return member such as a
spring.
[0316] Optionally after selecting the amplitude of the vibration
using the slider 114, the user presses on the button 110 that
switches the source on. During abrasion, the user has the option of
modifying the amplitude of the vibration.
[0317] As shown in FIG. 17, the user may move the appliance 100
along the mesh of hair C, e.g. from the roots to the free ends of
the hair, while the abrasive surface 105 is vibrating in contact
with the hair.
[0318] Where appropriate, the appliance may be arranged to enable
the user to select the orientation of the vibration.
[0319] By way of example, the appliance has two vibration sources
serving respectively to vibrate the abrasive surface parallel to
the axis X or transversely relative thereto.
[0320] The mode of vibration may be selected as a function of the
hair, a transverse mode being appropriate for hair that is damaged
little, while a longitudinal mode may be appropriate for hair that
is very damaged.
[0321] In a variant that is not shown, the user may cause the
frequency of the vibration to vary, e.g. by acting on the frequency
of rotation of a motor driving an eccentric flyweight.
[0322] The user may cause the appliance to slide along the mesh for
treatment, as shown, or may treat the portion of the mesh of hair
that is in contact with the abrasive and non-abrasive surfaces 105
and 106 without moving the appliance, and then open the clamp and
reposition the appliance so as to treat another portion of the mesh
of hair.
[0323] Once the abrasion operation has been completed, the user may
rinse the hair in order to remove abrasive particles and/or any
deposit that might have been detached from the hair.
[0324] The user may subsequently perform any coloring or care
treatment on the hair.
[0325] The appliance 100 may include a system for sucking up
particles and/or deposits, or indeed it may include a
liquid-recovery system.
[0326] By way of example, and as shown in FIG. 18, the abrasive
surface 105 (or the backing surface 106) may present holes 120 that
communicate with a source of suction, e.g. constituted by a fan.
The appliance may also include means for spraying a liquid onto the
hair and for recovering the sprayed liquid, e.g. by sucking it
Up.
[0327] If the appliance is used so as to include a step of
moistening the hair prior to abrading it, the abrasive particles
108 may be fastened in such a manner as to ensure that they do not
separate from the medium 107 on coming into contact with the water
or other substance that is used.
[0328] FIGS. 19 to 21 show other examples of appliances 100 of the
invention, each having a single abrasive surface 105, these
appliances not having a backing surface.
[0329] In the example of FIG. 19, the abrasive surface 105 is
driven in rotation about the longitudinal axis X, for example. The
abrasive nature of the abrasive surface 105 is preferably
sufficiently weak to ensure that hair can slide in contact with the
abrasive surface 105 without catching thereon. The appliance
advantageously enables the direction of rotation to be reversed, if
necessary. This may enable the abrasive surface to turn going from
the roots towards the ends. Where appropriate, the abrasive surface
105 may include portions in relief such as teeth for the purpose of
combing the hair. The abrasive surface 105 may also be free of
teeth, so as to reduce the risk of tangling hair. The appliance may
include a comb located upstream or downstream from the abrasive
surface. The abrasive surface 105 may be subjected to vibration as
well as to rotation, e.g. vibration parallel to the axis of
rotation.
[0330] In order to use the appliance shown in FIG. 19, the user
holds the mesh of hair C while the abrasive surface 105 is driven
in rotation.
[0331] In the example of FIG. 20, the abrasive surface 105 is
defined by a substantially plane disk driven in rotation about the
longitudinal axis Y of the appliance, e.g. passing through the
center of the disk, perpendicularly thereto.
[0332] In the embodiment of FIG. 21, the abrasive surface forms a
continuous strip driven by the appliance to move around two axes
125 and 126, e.g. along a path that is elliptical.
[0333] In the example shown in FIG. 22, the appliance 100 has two
abrasive surfaces 105 and 106, the abrasive surfaces 105 and 106
and/or the media 107 being identical or different.
[0334] FIG. 23 shows the possibility of causing the two abrasive
surfaces 105 and 106 to move in opposite directions, e.g. under
motor drive.
[0335] FIG. 24 shows the possibility of the surfaces 105 and 106
both being abrasive and rotary. It would not go beyond the ambit of
the invention for both surfaces to be abrasive and only one of the
surfaces 105 and 106 to be rotary, or indeed for only one of the
surfaces to be abrasive and both surfaces to be rotary.
[0336] In the method of using one of the appliances shown in FIGS.
19 to 24, a cosmetic treatment composition is applied before,
after, and/or during abrasion. The composition is optionally
included in the appliance, and may for example impregnate one of
the surfaces 105 and/or 106.
[0337] In a variant shown in FIG. 25, the treatment method of the
invention includes the step that consists in spraying solid
abrasive particles 208 onto the hair C, in particular in the form
of a jet 203 so as to abrade the hair. Under such circumstances,
the abrasion means are configured to project the abrasive particles
onto the hair.
[0338] In the example of FIG. 25, a jet of solid particles is
projected onto the hair at a mass flow rate of 1 gram per second
(g/s). The solid particle jet may have a volume flow rate of 4
cubic centimeters per second (cm.sup.3/s).
[0339] During the abrasion treatment, the flow rate of the jet of
solid particles may be modified. Initially the jet may present a
width of about 0.5 cm. This width may optionally be modified during
abrasion or prior to abrasion, e.g. so as to adjust the degree of
abrasion as a function of the state of the hair. The jet of
particles is propelled by a fluid, in particular by compressed air
in the example shown. The jet of particles is emitted from a nozzle
205 that is constituted by a single outlet presenting a flat shape
(5 mm.times.2 mm).
[0340] By way of example, the solid particles 208 projected onto
the hair may be silica particles having a diameter of about 20
.mu.m and hardness of about 7 on the Mohs scale.
[0341] Before, after, or during abrasion of the hair, a cosmetic
treatment composition is applied to the hair.
[0342] FIG. 26 shows an appliance 200 that has an enclosure 202
that is configured to have a mesh of hair C passing therethrough.
The enclosure 202 in the example shown comprises two shells 204
that are connected together by a connection 210, e.g. a hinge type
connection. The shells can be pivoted about the connection 210 so
as to be capable of taking up a first configuration in which the
enclosure 202 is open and a second configuration shown in FIGS. 27
and 28, in which the enclosure 202 is closed.
[0343] In the open, first configuration, the shells 204 are secured
to each other via the connection 210, whereas in the second
configuration the shells 204 are no longer movable but are
positioned one against the other so as to define between them a
volume 211 that is open at both ends of the enclosure so as to
allow hair to pass through.
[0344] In the example shown, the enclosure 202 presents an outside
shape that is substantially cylindrical, and the volume 211
presents a cross-section that is of oval shape. It would not go
beyond the ambit of the invention if the enclosure 202 were to be
of some other shape.
[0345] A channel 212 for feeding abrasive solid particles opens out
into the volume 211 defined by the shells 204. In this embodiment,
the appliance 200 also has a channel 213 serving to suck particles
208 out from the volume 211. These inlet and outlet channels 212
and 213 are housed in a flexible connection 214 connecting the
enclosure 202 to the remainder of the appliance (not shown in the
drawing). The number of inlet and outlet channels may be greater
without going beyond the ambit of the invention. In particular, the
appliance may include a plurality of channels 212 for feeding solid
particles 208 so as to have greater impact on the hair or so as to
provide abrasion that is more effective.
[0346] In addition to the enclosure 202 and the channels 212 and
213 housed in the flexible connection 214, the appliance 200 may
include a supply of solid abrasive particles 208, a particle
suction system comprising a fan, for example, possibly together
with a filter, a container for used particles, and a compressor
arranged to generate the gas under pressure that acts as a vector
for entraining the solid particles 208 from the supply to the
volume 211.
[0347] The operation of the appliance 200 shown in FIGS. 26 to 28
is as follows. After opening the enclosure 202, the user inserts a
mesh of hair C therein and recloses the enclosure 202 as shown in
FIG. 27. The shells 204 may close and retain the closed
configuration with the help of any appropriate mechanical closure
system, e.g. by snap-fastening. In a variant, the closure system
may be automated.
[0348] The user switches on the appliance 200 so that a jet of
solid particles is projected from the channel 212 for feeding
particles 208 into the volume 211. The jet of particles projected
onto the portion of hair held in the enclosure serves to abrade the
hair.
[0349] During abrasion, it is possible to modify the volume flow
rate or the mass flow rate of the jet.
[0350] A suction system comes into operation, e.g. simultaneously,
so as to suck up the abrasive particles 208 together with particles
or deposits D that are detached from the hair by the abrasion,
which particles are directed to a used particle container, where
appropriate.
[0351] The user has the possibility of moving the enclosure 202
along the mesh of hair held in the enclosure 212, e.g. from the
roots to the ends.
[0352] FIG. 28 shows a portion of the appliance comprising solely
the particle projection system but without a system for sucking
particles up. Under such circumstances, after the hair has been
abraded, it may be rinsed so as to remove therefrom abrasive
particles 208 and other particles or deposits that have been
detached from the hair by the abrasion.
[0353] The section of the inside volume 211 of the enclosure is not
limited to the shape shown in FIGS. 26 to 29.
[0354] FIG. 30 shows a volume 211 defined by two shells 204 that
are of circular section. In FIG. 31, the volume 211 presents a
cross-section that is rectangular in shape. The shape of the inside
volume 211 may be different without going beyond the ambit of the
invention.
[0355] At least one of the shells 204, and both shells in the
example shown in FIG. 32, may present one or more portions in
relief 215, such as teeth, on an inside face facing the other shell
204, so as to separate hairs and/or comb them, for example. These
portions in relief 215 may also oppose abrasive particles leaving
the treatment chamber formed between the shells or may limit losses
of abrasive particles to the outside of the device.
[0356] FIG. 33 shows another example of an appliance 200 in
accordance with the invention, the appliance having a treatment
chamber 220 that is defined by side walls 221 and by a top wall
222, with the chamber being closed at the bottom by the mesh of
hair C that is being abraded, as shown. The top wall 222 has a
channel 212 passing therethrough to feed abrasive solid particles
208, possibly together with other particles, e.g. care active
agents. The particles 208 are sucked up after they have impacted
against the hair C together with the deposit D that has been
detached from the hair via an outlet channel 213 that passes
through the top wall 222 of the treatment chamber 220. The feed
flow of particles is generated by the suction that exists inside
the chamber 220 as a result of suction via the outlet channel that
is connected to a suction pump. Thus, where there is no mesh of
hair, suction is not established and particles are not present in
the chamber 220. In the example of FIG. 34, it is a vibration
surface 225 that sets the particles 208 into motion so as to impact
against the mesh of hair C in order to abrade the hair. The
vibration surface 225 may be set into motion by ultrasound. Under
such circumstances, it may form part of a sonotrode. The particles
208 are confined in a treatment chamber 220 that is defined by the
vibration surface 225, the mesh of hair C, and one or more side
walls 221 secured to the sonotrode that defines the vibration
surface.
[0357] In the methods implemented using the appliances of FIGS. 26
to 34, a cosmetic treatment composition is applied to the hair
before, after, and/or during abrasion.
[0358] The invention is not limited to the embodiments
described.
Example of a Medium Presenting an Abrasive Surface
[0359] Hair was treated using a flexible medium consisting of a
card sheet including abrasive particles of silica having a diameter
of about 20 .mu.m and hardness of 6 on the Mohs scale.
[0360] Abrasion was performed mesh by mesh on meshes having a
diameter lying in the range about 0.5 cm to about 1 cm.
[0361] Three passes were performed longitudinally going from the
roots towards the ends on dry hair.
[0362] Hairs were taken before and after the abrasion, and they
were analyzed using an atomic force microscope (AFM). FIGS. 35 and
36 are AFM photographs of hairs C before and after abrasion.
[0363] It can be seen that the scales E of the treated hair are
more regular and less jagged, which may facilitate untangling.
Furthermore, after abrasion, there remain practically no raised
scales.
[0364] The hair then had a conditioning treatment composition
applied thereto, which deposited uniformly on the surface of the
hairs and/or penetrated effectively into the insides thereof.
Examples with an Abrasive Hair-Care Composition
[0365] The other examples described make use of a hair-care
composition that includes abrasive particles for the purpose of
abrading the hair. A treatment composition in addition to the
hair-care composition was also applied to the hair, e.g. before or
after abrasion of the hair. In one particular example, the abrasive
hair-care composition constituted the treatment composition, with
abrasion and application of the treatment composition being
performed simultaneously with the hair-care composition in this
example.
[0366] The proportions are given by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1
Revealing Smoothing Power
[0367] The following hair-care compositions were prepared.
TABLE-US-00002 Composition A B Carbopol 980 [1] 0.2 0.2 Alumina "a"
[2] 20 0 Buffer qs pH = 7 qs pH = 7 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 [1]
Carbopol 980 sold by Noveon. [2] Dermagrain 1000 sold by Marketech
International Inc., grain size 120 .mu.m, hardness on the Mohs
scale, about 9.
[0368] The study was performed on a panel of 20 women: ten women
with natural long hair and ten women with sensitized long hair.
[0369] 10 grams (g) to 15 g of each of these compositions A and B
were applied per half-head, composition A being in accordance with
the invention and composition B being a control composition.
[0370] Application was performed mesh by mesh using two motions for
abrading the hair: a first motion referred to as "tangential"
motion was substantially parallel to the hair; and a second motion,
referred to as "shear" motion was substantially orthogonal to the
hair. Both motions were repeated ten times. The hair was combed,
then rinsed, and finally blow-dried.
Sensory Analysis
[0371] A comparative evaluation was made of the sensory properties
of each half-head: one treated using the method of the invention
with composition A and the other treated using the control
composition B.
[0372] The results showed that the side treated using the method of
the invention was smoother, more supple, and more uniform than the
control side. It was also observed that the method of the invention
gave better control over hair volume with fewer small curls.
Effects that are particularly remarkable given that the hair was
sensitized and thick.
[0373] After shampooing five times, the smoothing of the hair was
conserved, as was control over volume and regardless of the degree
to which the hair was sensitized (natural to highly
sensitized).
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2
Smoothing Power as a Function of The Size of the Particles
Contained in the Hair-Care Composition Used
TABLE-US-00003 [0374] Composition A C Carbopol 980 [1] 0.2 0.2
Alumina "a" [2] (120 .mu.m) 20 0 Alumina "b" [3] (0.68 .mu.m) 0 20
Buffer qs pH = 7 qs pH = 7 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 [1] Carbopol 980
sold by Noveon. [2] Dermagrain 1000 sold by Marketech International
Inc. [3] Alumina beads sold by Miyoshi Kasei.
[0375] The protocol for applying the hair-care compositions,
abrading the hair, combing, rinsing, and drying the hair was the
same as in Example 1, but using compositions A and C.
Sensory Analysis
[0376] A comparative evaluation was made of the sensory properties
of each half-head: one treated with the method of the invention
using composition A containing solid particles of alumina with a
mean dimension of 120 .mu.m; and the other treated using a
composition B containing solid particles of alumina with a mean
dimension of 0.68 .mu.m.
[0377] The results show that the side treated with composition A
containing alumina "a" particles was smoother, more supple, and
more uniform than the side treated with composition C containing
alumina "b" particles.
[0378] After shampooing five times, the smoothing of the hair was
conserved as was control over volume, for hair treated with
composition A containing alumina "a" particles.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3
Preparing Hair Using the Method of the Invention with Conditioner
Type Post-Treatment
[0379] In this example, the method of the invention was followed by
post-treatment of the conditioner type.
[0380] The formulations of treatment composition D and of
comparative composition E were as follows:
TABLE-US-00004 Composition D E Cetrimonium chloride 0.8 0.8
Quaternium-80 0.306 0.306 Glyceryl stearate 1 1 Propylene glycol
0.294 0.294 Cetearyl alcohol 3.15 3.15 Dipalmitoylethyl
hydroxyethylmonium 1.35 1.35 methosulfate [6] Pumice [1] 20 0
Buffer qs pH = 5.5 qs pH = 5.5 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 [1] Pumice:
pumice stone powder sold by Eyraud, mean diameter 365 .mu.m.
[0381] The study was performed on a panel of 20 women: ten women
having natural long hair and ten women having sensitized long
hair.
[0382] 10 g to 15 g of each of the treatments were applied per
half-head.
[0383] The application was performed mesh by mesh in two motions: a
"tangential" first motion; and a "shear" second motion. The two
motions were repeated ten times. The hair was combed, then rinsed,
and finally blow-dried.
[0384] After this first treatment of the hair, a conditioner type
post-treatment was applied.
TABLE-US-00005 Post-treatment composition F Cetrimonium chloride
0.03 Hydroxypropyltrimoinium 0.3 hydrolyzed wheat protein Glyceryl
linolenate 0.002 Trideceth-6 0.1476 Glyceryl oleate 0.031 Glyceryl
linileate 0.067 Glycerin 2 Isopropyl alcohol 1.125 Cetearyl alcohol
7 Amodimethicone 1.725 Behentrimonium chloride 4.9375 Halianthus
annuus 0.05 (sunflower) seed oil Cetyl esters 1.5 Preservatives qs
Fragrance qs Water Qsp 100
[0385] This post-treatment was applied to all of the hair and then
rinsed. The hair was blow-dried.
Sensory Analysis
[0386] The results show that the conditioning, i.e. the smoothing
on the side treated with the method of the invention using
composition D was more regular from the roots to the ends, lighter,
and more natural than the side treated with composition E. The
conditioner composition was deposited in appropriate manner leading
to roots that were loaded little and ends that were well-groomed.
The invention provided good control over hair volume and improves
the discipline of the hair. The effects were particularly
remarkable on hair that was sensitized and thick.
[0387] After shampooing five times, the smoothing of the hair was
conserved as was control over volume, regardless of the degree of
sensitivity of the hair (natural to highly sensitized).
Examples with Microsanding
[0388] In Examples 1 to 3 described below, and as shown in FIG. 37,
the appliance 200 comprises a microsander 230 of trademark Arena,
referenced under the name PL17.
[0389] The appliance 200 had an enclosure 202 of width e 3 cm,
enabling hair to be slid through the volume 211 and enabling
abrasive powder to be sucked up after impacting against the mesh of
hair by means of a suction system 232.
[0390] A small metal grid 231 supported the hair to prevent it from
being sucked up.
[0391] Abrasive particles in powder form were delivered by a stream
of compressed air at a rate of about 1 liter per second (L/s). The
nozzle 205 presented a diameter of about 1.7 mm.
[0392] The mesh of hair was slid through the enclosure 202 at a
speed of about 1 centimeter per second (cm/s).
EXAMPLE 1
[0393] In this example, so-called "angular" abrasive particles of
trademark Arena, referenced ABC 220 were used, consisting in white
corundum of size lying in the range 50 .mu.m to 70 .mu.m.
[0394] This treatment was applied to sensitized hair.
EXAMPLE 2
[0395] In this example, the abrasive particles used were round, in
the form of glass microbeads (trademark Arena, reference ABV 05;
diameter lying in the range 45 .mu.m to 89 .mu.m
approximately).
[0396] The abrasion treatment was applied to natural hair, before
styling. Treatment was applied in particular to meshes at the
front. Then, after a final rinse, styling was performed using hair
spray (Elnett Satin). The hair was easier to keep in shape.
EXAMPLE 3
[0397] The third example was performed using angular type metal
abrasive particles (trademark Arena, reference P 300 3, of
dimensions lying in the range 200 .mu.m to 500 .mu.m).
[0398] The abrasion treatment was performed on hair that was gray
and greasy. After treatment, the hair was washed and then brown
coloring (Majirel 3.0) was applied thereto. A high intensity color
effect was then obtained.
EXAMPLE 4
[0399] A sander 30 was used of trademark "SD2", referenced DA 15301
from the supplier Henry Schein, article code 886-9361.
[0400] It was set up in the same configuration as for the above
examples.
[0401] The abrasive particles 8 comprised an aluminum oxide powder
with a mean dimension of 50 .mu.m.
[0402] The sander 30 was also fed with compressed air by a
compressor (not shown) delivering about 50 milliliters per second
(mL/s) of air.
[0403] The nozzle could be swiveled.
[0404] Sensitized hair was then treated as in Example 1.
[0405] The term "comprising a" should be understood as being
synonymous with the term "comprising at least one", and the term
"lying in the range" should be understood as including the limits
given, unless specified to the contrary.
* * * * *