U.S. patent application number 12/599308 was filed with the patent office on 2011-03-17 for process for the preparation of active principles on thermal water and compositions comprising them.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Pascal Hilaire, Richard Martin.
Application Number | 20110064835 12/599308 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 38515806 |
Filed Date | 2011-03-17 |
United States Patent
Application |
20110064835 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Martin; Richard ; et
al. |
March 17, 2011 |
PROCESS FOR THE PREPARATION OF ACTIVE PRINCIPLES ON THERMAL WATER
AND COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING THEM
Abstract
The invention relates to a process for the preparation of a
cosmetic or dermatological active principle, comprising the
culturing of at least one nonphoto-synthetic and nonfruiting
filamentous bacterium on a medium comprising at least one
nonsulphurous mineral and/or thermal water. It also relates to a
cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one
bacterium of the genus Vitreoscilla or one of its extracts.
Inventors: |
Martin; Richard;
(Rochecorbon, FR) ; Hilaire; Pascal; (Vouvray,
FR) |
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
38515806 |
Appl. No.: |
12/599308 |
Filed: |
May 7, 2008 |
PCT Filed: |
May 7, 2008 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/EP2008/055644 |
371 Date: |
November 22, 2010 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
60945969 |
Jun 25, 2007 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/780 ;
424/93.4; 435/170 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61P 17/00 20180101;
C12N 1/38 20130101; A61K 35/08 20130101; C12N 1/20 20130101; A61K
35/74 20130101; A61K 8/965 20130101; C12R 1/01 20130101; A61K 8/99
20130101; A61K 35/74 20130101; C12P 19/02 20130101; A61K 35/08
20130101; A61K 2300/00 20130101; A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61K 2300/00
20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/780 ;
435/170; 424/93.4 |
International
Class: |
A61K 35/74 20060101
A61K035/74; C12P 1/04 20060101 C12P001/04; A61K 8/99 20060101
A61K008/99; A61P 17/00 20060101 A61P017/00; A61Q 19/00 20060101
A61Q019/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
May 10, 2007 |
FR |
0754957 |
Claims
1. A process for preparing a cosmetic or dermatological active
principle, comprising: culturing at least one nonphotosynthetic and
nonfruiting filamentous bacterium on a medium comprising at least
one nonsulphurous mineral and/or thermal water.
2. The process according to claim 1, wherein a genus of the at
least one bacterium is the genus Vitreoscilla.
3. The process according to claim 2, wherein a specie of the at
least one bacterium is the specie, Vitreoscilla filiformis.
4. The process according to claim 3, wherein the bacterium is the
strain deposited at the ATCC under the reference ATCC15551.
5. The process according to claim 1, wherein a total mineral
content of the thermal and/or mineral water is greater than or
equal to 400 mg/l.
6. The process according to claim 1, wherein the bacterium is
cultured on a medium comprising a thermal water.
7. The process according to claim 1, wherein a concentration of
calcium ions in the thermal or mineral water is greater than or
equal to 100 mg/l.
8. The process according to claim 1, wherein a concentration of
hydrogen-carbonates in the thermal or mineral water is greater than
or equal to 300 mg/l.
9. The process according to claim 1, wherein the bacterium is
cultured on a medium comprising at least one thermal water selected
from a group of waters consisting of water from Vittel, water from
the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche-Posay,
water from La Bourboule, water from Les Fumades, water from
Enghien-les-Bains and water from Eaux-Bonnes.
10. The process according to claim 9, wherein the thermal water is
water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel or a mixture
thereof.
11. The process according to claim 1, further comprising:
fermenting the cultured bacterium in the medium; and separating the
fermented cultured bacterium from the fermented culture medium to
recover a mass of the bacteria; wherein the medium further
comprises a monosaccharide, and an order of the at least one
bacterium is Beggiatoales.
12. The process according to claim 11, further comprising:
stabilizing the mass of the bacteria which is recovered on
conclusion of the fermentation stage.
13. The process according to claim 1, wherein the culture medium
comprises a mixture of (i) osmotically treated or distilled water
and of (ii) thermal water, and a ratio (i)/(ii) is between 1 and
100.
14. The process according to claim 1, wherein the bacterium is of a
genus Vitreoscilla.
15. A cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising in a
physiologically acceptable medium, at least one bacterium of the
genus Vitreoscilla obtained by the process according to claim 14,
or an extract of the at least one bacterium of the genus
Vitreoscilla.
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to novel processes for
culturing microorganisms, of use in particular in the cosmetics or
pharmaceutical field, which confer improved properties thereon. It
also relates to the use of bacteria capable of being obtained by
these processes, or their extracts, in the preparation of
compositions in particular having a cosmetic or dermatological
use.
[0002] The invention relates in particular to the culturing of
nonphotosynthetic and nonfruiting filamentous bacteria as defined
according to the classification of Bergey's Manual of Systematic
Bacteriology (vol. 3, sections 22 and 23, 9th edition, 1989), among
which may be mentioned the bacteria belonging to the order of the
Beggiatoales and more particularly the bacteria belonging to the
genera Beggiatoa, Vitreoscilla, Flexithrix or Leucothrix.
[0003] The culturing of such bacteria of the family of the
Beggiatoaceae has been described in Application FR 2 283 223, by
multiplication in a fermenter in a weakly stirred medium.
[0004] Application WO 94/02158 teaches the preparation of
immunomodulating compositions from envelopes of bacteria of the
genus Beggiatoa or Vitreoscilla. The bacteria are cultured on a
medium prepared with distilled water and a monosaccharide, in
particular glucose, as carbon source.
[0005] Furthermore, the filamentous bacteria thus obtained, or
fractions, exhibit advantageous properties which have been
described, for example, for combating signs of ageing in EP 681 831
or for treating sensitive skin in EP 761 204.
[0006] There still exists a need to find improved processes for
producing such microorganisms.
[0007] It has been found, in the context of the present invention,
that the replacement, in all or part, of the distilled water
conventionally present in the medium for culturing filamentous
bacteria by mineral water makes it possible to obtain a bacterial
mass exhibiting improved properties.
[0008] This is why a subject-matter of the present invention is a
process for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological active
principle, comprising the culturing of at least one
nonphotosynthetic and non-fruiting filamentous bacterium on a
medium comprising at least one mineral and/or thermal water which
is preferably nonsulphurous.
[0009] Sulphurous waters generally contain bacteria having
autotrophic metabolism playing a role in the sulphur cycle. The
non-sulphurous waters according to the invention are substantially
devoid of such sulphite-reducing bacteria.
[0010] As indicated above, the nonphotosynthetic filamentous
bacteria comprise in particular the bacteria belonging to the order
of the Beggiatoales and more particularly the bacteria belonging to
the genera Beggiatoa, Vitreoscilla, Flexithrix or Leucothrix.
[0011] The process according to the invention is particularly
suitable for the culturing of bacteria belonging to the genus
Vitreoscilla, in particular for bacteria of the species
Vitreoscilla filiformis.
[0012] The bacteria which have just been defined, several of which
have already been described, generally have an aquatic habitat and
can be found in particular in sea waters or in thermal waters.
Mention may be made, among the bacteria which can be used, for
example, of: [0013] Vitreoscilla filiformis (ATCC 15551) [0014]
Vitreoscilla beggiatoides (ATCC 43181) [0015] Beggiatoa alba (ATCC
33555) [0016] Flexithrix dorotheae (ATCC 23163) [0017] Leucothrix
mucor (ATCC 25107) [0018] Sphaerotilus natans (ATCC 13338)
[0019] Preferably, the process according to the invention is
applied to the culturing of the bacterium corresponding to the
strain deposited at the ATCC under No. 15551.
[0020] The term "thermal water" is understood to mean a hot or cold
water which is used for its therapeutic powers or for a bathing
use. The present invention can use a thermal water or a mineral
water. Generally, a mineral water is suitable for consumption,
which is not always the case with a thermal water. Each of these
waters comprises, inter alia, dissolved minerals and trace
elements. These waters are known to be employed for specific
treatment purposes depending on the particular trace elements and
minerals present therein.
[0021] Preferably, in the process according to the invention, use
is made of a thermal and/or mineral water which exhibits a total
mineral content of greater than or equal to 400 mg/l.
[0022] In the invention, the term "total mineral content" is
understood to mean the sum of the concentrations of anions and
cations present in the thermal or mineral water. In the thermal or
mineral waters of use according to the invention, the total mineral
content is generally between 400 and 900 mg/l.
[0023] The thermal and/or mineral water used according to the
invention can have a total mineral content of at least 700 mg/l, in
particular a total concentration of carbonates and of bicarbonates
of at least 150 mg/l and more preferably of at least 360 mg/l and
in particular of sodium carbonate and bicarbonate of greater than 2
mg/l. The concentration of silicon oxide in the water used in the
composition according to the invention can preferably be at least 6
mg/l and more preferably at least 9 mg/1.
[0024] The thermal water or the mineral water used according to the
invention can be chosen from water from Vittel, waters from the
Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche-Posay, water
from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint
Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from
Allevard-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water
from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from
Eaux-Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water
from Les Fumades and water from Tercis-les-Bains.
[0025] Advantageously, it is chosen from nonsulphurous waters, such
as water from Vittel, waters from the Vichy basin-excepting
sulphurous waters, water from La Roche-Posay, water from La
Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from
Neris-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from
Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Rochefort,
water from Saint Christau and water from Tercis-les-Bains.
[0026] Among these waters, those which exhibit a total
concentration of carbonates or bicarbonates of greater than 360
mg/l are water from Vittel, water from La Bourboule, water from Les
Fumades, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from La Roche-Posay,
water from the Vichy basin and water from Uriage.
[0027] Among these waters, those which exhibit a concentration of
carbonates or bicarbonates of between 150 mg/l and 360 mg/l are
water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Rochefort or
water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains.
[0028] Among these waters, those which comprise at least 2 mg/l of
sodium carbonate or bicarbonate are water from La Roche-Posay,
water from Vittel, waters from the Vichy basin or water from
Uriage.
[0029] The waters comprising at least 9 mg/l of silicon oxide are
water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, waters from the Vichy
basin or water from Uriage.
[0030] The thermal or mineral waters which are particularly
suitable for the implementation of the invention have a
concentration of calcium ions of greater than or equal to 100 mg/l,
indeed even 140 mg/l.
[0031] According to an advantageous embodiment, the thermal or
mineral water has a concentration of hydrogencarbonate ions of
greater than or equal to 300 mg/l. The hydrogencarbonates, also
known as bicarbonates, are present in particular at a concentration
of greater than or equal to 350 mg/l.
[0032] According to an advantageous embodiment, the bacteria are
cultured on a medium comprising at least one thermal water. The
latter can in particular be chosen from water from Vittel, waters
from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche-Posay,
water from La Bourboule, or water from Enghien-les-Bains and in
particular from water from Vittel, waters from the Vichy basin
excepting sulphurous waters and water from La Roche-Posay.
[0033] The waters which make it possible to obtain a particular
advantageous result according to the invention are chosen in
particular from water from La Roche-Posay and water from Vittel, or
a water with a similar composition.
[0034] Water from La Roche-Posay is extracted from the spring of
the same name; it is a water comprising bicarbonate, calcium,
silicate and selenium. It generally comprises approximately 387
mg/l of bicarbonate ions, approximately 140 mg/l of calcium ions
and at least 40 mg/l of sulphates.
[0035] Water from Vittel is rich in calcium and in mineral salts
(841 mg/l) and comprises in particular 202 mg/l of calcium, 402
mg/l of bicarbonates and 336 mg/l of sulphates.
[0036] Culturing can in particular be carried out in the following
medium:
TABLE-US-00001 Composition Concentration Autolytic yeast extract
0.5 to 5 g/l Peptone 0.5 to 5 g/l Anhydrous glucose 0.5 to 7 g/l
Heller microelements 0.5 to 5 ml/l CaCl.sub.2.cndot.10H.sub.2O
0.010 to 0.200 g/l
[0037] The composition is made up to 1000 ml with distilled water
and/or mineral or thermal water.
[0038] Mention may be made, among peptones which can be used, for
example, of soybean papain peptone.
[0039] This medium is distinguished from the media generally used
by the absence of catalase and sulphide. The Heller microelements
have been described by Heller, Ann. Sci. Nat. Biol. Veg., 14, 1-223
(1953). They are mixtures of various mineral elements which are
recommended by Heller not for the culturing of bacteria but for the
nutrition of plant tissues cultured in vitro.
[0040] Culturing can be carried out at the appropriate temperature
suitable for the bacterial species cultured. Generally, this
temperature is between 18 and 40.degree. C., depending on the
strains. The pH of the culture medium is preferably between 5.5 and
8.
[0041] The composition of the Heller microelements, per 1 l of
water, is as follows:
TABLE-US-00002 ZnSO.sub.4.cndot.7H.sub.2O 1 g
MnSO.sub.4.cndot.H.sub.2O 0.076 g CuSO.sub.4.cndot.5H.sub.2O 0.003
g KI 0.010 g H.sub.3BO.sub.3 1 g AlCl.sub.3.cndot.6H.sub.2O 0.050 g
NiCl.sub.2.cndot.6H.sub.2O 0.030 g
[0042] The said thermal or mineral waters can replace all or part
of the aqueous phase of the culture medium. They can thus be found
as a mixture in any proportion with the water, in particular
distilled or osmotically treated water, present in the culture
medium.
[0043] After mixing all the elements of the medium, the culture
medium comprising the thermal and/or mineral water is
advantageously sterilized; this stage is carried out by methods
known to a person skilled in the art, such as sterilization by
filtration or by heat.
[0044] The culture medium is subsequently inoculated with the
bacteria.
[0045] Another subject-matter of the invention is thus a process
for culturing microorganisms or for preparing a cosmetic or
dermatological active principle as defined above, characterized in
that the culture medium comprises a mixture (i) of osmotically
treated or distilled water and (ii) of thermal water, in a ratio
(i)/(ii) of between 1 and 100, in particular from 1 to 50,
especially from 1 to 25.
[0046] Unexpectedly, it has been found, in the context of the
invention, that the incorporation of thermal and/or mineral water
in the culture medium in a relatively small proportion can confer,
on the microorganism, advantageous properties distinct from those
of a micro-organism cultured on a medium in which the water
incorporated is exclusively distilled and/or osmotically treated
water.
[0047] Thus, in media suitable for the implementation of the
invention, the thermal or mineral water preferably represents at
least 0.1% of the amount of water introduced for the preparation of
the medium, in particular from 0.1 to 99.9%. Good results are
obtained with concentrations of thermal water of approximately 1%
or 2%, with respect to the osmotically treated and/or distilled
water, for example from 0.5 to 20%, indeed even from 0.5 to 50%,
but these concentrations can be increased without disadvantage.
[0048] In a known way, the process comprises at least one stage in
which the bacteria are recovered at the end of culturing, in
particular by separating them from the culture medium.
[0049] After culturing the bacteria, the biomass can be isolated by
various known methods, for example by filtration, by coagulation
with an alcohol (ethanol, isopropanol, isobutanol), by drying on a
cylinder with a scraped prelayer (starch, diatoms, and the like) or
by lyophilization. A preliminary concentration, for example at
80.degree. C. under reduced pressure, improves this separation.
[0050] An operation of rupturing the envelopes can be carried out,
for example by the action of ultrasound. In addition, extracts can
be prepared using an alcohol, such as ethanol or propanol.
[0051] Lipopolysaccharide extracts can also be prepared according
to known methods; for example, see Noris and Ribbons, Methods in
Microbiology, Vol. 5B, Academic Press (1971). The method generally
used is the well-known "Westphal" method (or a related method),
which consists in carrying out the extraction with phenol/water
mixtures at 65.degree. C. The extract is subsequently subjected to
dialysis in order to remove the phenol.
[0052] The invention relates in particular to a process for the
preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological active principle as
defined above, characterized in that it comprises a stage during
which (i) at least one bacterium belonging to the order of the
Beggiatoales is cultured on a medium comprising a monosaccharide as
main carbon source and at least one mineral or thermal water and
then (ii), after fermentation, the bacteria are separated from the
culture medium in order to recover the said mass of the
bacteria.
[0053] The bacteria recovered on conclusion of the fermentation
stage can in particular be subjected to a stabilization and/or
extraction treatment. It is the extract of filamentous bacteria
which is thus obtained which will generally be used in or for the
preparation of cosmetic or dermatological compositions. In a way
known per se, the extract can thus be sterilized, in particular by
filtration or by autoclaving.
[0054] The term "extract of nonphotosynthetic filamentous bacteria"
is understood to mean equally well the supernatant from the
culturing of the said bacteria, the biomass obtained after
culturing the said bacteria or the extracts of the biomass which
are obtained by treatment of this biomass.
[0055] In order to prepare the extract according to the invention,
the said bacteria can be cultured according to the process
according to the invention and can then be separated from the
biomass obtained, for example by filtration, centrifuging,
coagulation and/or lyophilization.
[0056] Thus, after culturing, the bacteria are concentrated by
centrifuging. The biomass obtained is autoclaved. This biomass can
be lyophilized in order to constitute what is referred to as the
lyophilized extract. Any lyophilization method known to a person
skilled in the art can be used to prepare this extract.
[0057] The supernatant fraction from this biomass can also be
filtered into a sterile container in order to remove the suspended
particles. This supernatant fraction can also be decanted under
sterile conditions into a sterile container. According to a
specific embodiment of the invention, the supernatant fraction thus
obtained is used as cosmetic or dermatological active
principle.
[0058] Unexpectedly, it has been found, in the context of the
present invention, that the culturing of a bacterium on a medium
comprising at least one thermal or mineral water, in particular
constituting from 1 to 100% of the water present in the culture
medium, conferred, on the bacterium obtained on conclusion of the
various fermentation and isolation stages, specific properties
distinct from those of the same bacterium cultured on a medium not
supplemented with thermal and/or mineral water but comprising only
osmotically treated or distilled water.
[0059] According to another aspect of the invention, the
substitution of all or part of the water of the medium for
culturing the bacterium by mineral or thermal water makes it
possible to increase the rate of growth of the bacterium and thus
to improve the production output.
[0060] The production output can in particular be increased of at
least 10%, for a controlled growth rate and with identical and
controlled culture conditions.
[0061] This is why another subject-matter of the invention is the
use of at least one thermal or mineral water, which is preferably
nonsulphurous, as defined above, as agent for improving the
activity and/or the growth of a bacterium of the genus
Vitreoscilla, in particular Vitreoscilla filiformis.
[0062] The invention also relates to a process for improving the
growth and/or the properties of a bacterium of the genus Beggiatoa
or Vitreoscilla which consists in adding a thermal and/or mineral
water to the culture medium in at least one stage of the
culturing.
[0063] As mentioned above, the thermal or mineral waters are
preferably non-sulphurous waters, in particular selected from the
waters from Vittel, waters from the Vichy basin excepting
sulphurous waters and water from La Roche-Posay.
[0064] Another subject-matter of the invention is a culture medium
suited to the culturing of nonphotosynthetic filamentous bacteria
as defined above, the water present in the said medium comprising
at least 1% of mineral and/or thermal water, in particular from 1
to 99.9%, preferably from 1 to 25%.
[0065] Another subject-matter of the invention is the bacteria, in
particular Vitreoscilla filiformis, capable of being obtained by
the process according to the invention, and also their extracts and
their uses in compositions, the bacteria, their extracts or the
compositions being of use in improving the condition of the skin
and/or superficial body growths.
[0066] Another subject-matter of the invention is thus a
composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological
composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a
physiologically acceptable medium, at least one bacterium of the
genus Vitreoscilla capable of being obtained by the process
described above, or an extract of the latter.
[0067] The compositions used according to the invention can be
provided in all the forms suitable for the applications envisaged,
in particular orally or topically, in the cosmetic and
dermatological fields.
[0068] The term "topically" is preferably understood to mean use by
topical application to the skin or superficial body growths; the
term "skin" also encompasses, unless otherwise indicated, the scalp
or mucous membranes.
[0069] The composition according to the invention can thus be
applied to any cutaneous region of the body, the hair, the nails or
the mucous membranes and can be provided in any suitable
formulation form by a person skilled in the art. It can in
particular be provided in the form of an aqueous or oily solution
or suspension, of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple
emulsion, of a silicone emulsion, of a microemulsion or
nanoemulsion, of an aqueous or oily gel or of a liquid, pasty or
solid anhydrous product.
[0070] For topical application to the skin, the composition can
have the form in particular of aqueous or oily solutions or of
dispersions of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions with a liquid
or semiliquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion
of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or
of suspensions or emulsions with a soft consistency of the aqueous
or anhydrous cream or gel type, or else of microcapsules or
microparticles, or of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or
nonionic type. It can also be presented in the form of a patch or
of a controlled release system. These compositions are prepared
according to the usual methods.
[0071] They can also be used for the hair in the form of aqueous,
alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solutions, or in the form of creams,
gels, emulsions or foams, or also in the form of aerosol
compositions also comprising a pressurized propellant.
[0072] For the eyes, the composition can be provided in the form of
drops and, for ingestion, it can be provided in the form of
capsules, granules, gels, chewing pastes, syrups or tablets.
[0073] The amounts of the various constituents of the compositions
according to the invention are those conventionally used in the
fields under consideration.
[0074] These compositions constitute in particular creams for
cleaning, protecting, treating or caring for the face, for the
hands, for the feet, for the major anatomical folds or for the body
(for example, day creams, night creams, make-up-removing creams,
foundation creams or sun creams), masks to be left standing on the
skin or hair, liquid foundations, make-up-removing milks,
protective or care body milks, sun milks, lotions, gels or foams
for caring for the skin, such as cleansing lotions, sun lotions,
artificial tanning lotions, bath compositions, deodorizing
compositions comprising a bactericidal agent, aftershave gels or
lotions, depilatory creams, compositions for countering insect
stings or bites, pain-relieving compositions or compositions for
treating certain skin diseases, such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis,
lichen or severe pruritus.
[0075] The compositions according to the invention can also consist
of solid preparations constituting cleansing soaps or bars.
[0076] The compositions can also be packaged in the form of an
aerosol composition also comprising a pressurized propellant.
[0077] The composition according to the invention can also be a
hair-care composition, and in particular a shampoo, a hair-setting
lotion, a treating lotion, a styling cream or gel, a dyeing
composition (in particular an oxidation dyeing composition),
optionally in the form of shampoo dyes, hair restructuring lotions,
a perming composition (in particular a composition for the first
step of a perming), a lotion or a gel for combating hair loss, an
antiparasitic shampoo, and the like.
[0078] The composition can also be for oral use, for example, a
toothpaste. In this case, the composition can comprise adjuvants
and additives conventional for compositions for oral use and in
particular surface-active agents, thickening agents, humectants,
polishing agents, such as silica, various active ingredients, such
as fluorides, in particular sodium fluoride, and optionally
sweetening agents, such as sodium saccharinate.
[0079] When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the
fatty phase can range from 5% to 80% by weight and preferably from
5% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the
composition. The oils, waxes, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in
the composition in the emulsion form are chosen from those
conventionally used in the cosmetics field. The emulsifier and
coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging
from 0.3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by
weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. In
addition, the emulsion can comprise lipid vesicles.
[0080] When the composition is an oily solution or gel, the fatty
phase can represent more than 90% of the total weight of the
composition.
[0081] In a known way, the cosmetic composition can also comprise
adjuvants conventional in the cosmetics field, such as hydrophilic
or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives,
preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers,
screening agents, odour absorbers and colouring materials. The
amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in
the cosmetics field and, for example, from 0.01% to 10% of the
total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on
their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the
aqueous phase and/or into the lipid spherules.
[0082] Mention may be made, as oils or waxes which can be used in
the invention, of mineral oils (liquid petrolatum), vegetable oils
(liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil), animal oils
(perhydrosqualene), synthetic oils (purcellin oil), silicone oils
or waxes (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils
(perfluoropolyethers), beeswax, carnauba wax or paraffin wax. Fatty
alcohols and fatty acids (stearic acid) can be added to these
oils.
[0083] Mention may be made, as emulsifiers which can be used in the
invention, for example, of glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 60 and
the PEG-6/PEG-32/glycol stearate mixture sold under the name
Tefose.RTM. 63 by Gattefosse.
[0084] Mention may be made, as solvents which can be used in the
invention, of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and
isopropanol, or propylene glycol.
[0085] Mention may be made, as hydrophilic gelling agents which can
be used in the invention, of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer),
acrylic copolymers, such as acrylate/alkylacrylate copolymers,
polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, such as hydroxypropylcellulose,
natural gums and clays, and mention may be made, as lipophilic
gelling agents, of modified clays, such as Bentones.RTM., metal
salts of fatty acids, such as aluminium stearates, and hydrophobic
silica, ethylcellulose or polyethylene.
[0086] In an advantageous embodiment, the compositions according to
the invention are oil-in-water (O/W) compositions, in particular
compositions comprising lipophilic active principles. Such
compositions are in particular based on oily globules provided with
a lamellar liquid crystal coating, as described in Application EP
641 557. The cosmetic or dermatological composition is composed of
an emulsion of the oil-in-water type formed of oily globules
provided with a lamellar liquid crystal coating dispersed in an
aqueous phase; each oily globule comprising at least one lipophilic
compound which is active cosmetically or dermatologically is
individually coated with a mono-lamellar or oligolamellar layer
obtained from at least one lipophilic surface-active agent, from at
least one hydrophilic surface-active agent and from at least one
fatty acid, the coated oily globules having a mean diameter of less
than 500 nanometres, and the aqueous phase comprises a basic agent
in the dissolved state. When the compositions according to the
invention are used for the cosmetic treatment of the keratinous
substance, the active principle present in the oily phase is, for
example, chosen from melanin regulators, liporegulators,
antiseborrhoeic agents, antiageing agents, agents for combating UV
radiation, keratolytic agents, antibacterial agents, antifungal
agents, antidandruff agents, agents for combating hair loss, hair
dyes, hair bleaches or conditioners.
[0087] Mention may be made, as examples of active principles for
the treatment of the skin and/or hair which can be used in the
context of the present invention, of the following compounds:
D-.alpha.-tocopherol, DL-.alpha.-tocopherol, D-.alpha.-tocopheryl
acetate, DL-.alpha.-tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin
F glycerides, vitamins D, vitamin D.sub.2, vitamin D.sub.3,
retinol, retinyl esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate,
.beta.-carotene, D-panthenol, farnesol, farnesyl acetate, jojoba
and blackcurrant oils which are rich in essential fatty acids,
5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, salicylic acid, alkyl esters of
.alpha.-hydroxy acids, such as citric acid, lactic acid or glycolic
acid, asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, total extract of
Centella asiatica, .beta.-glycyrrhetinic acid, .alpha.-bisabolol,
ceramides, such as 2-oleoylamino-1,3-octadecane, phytanetriol, milk
sphingomyelin, phospholipids of marine origin rich in
polyunsaturated essential fatty acids, ethoxyquin, rosemary
extract, balm extract, quercetin, extract of dried microalgae
(Algoxan Red from Algatec), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX,
Givaudan-Roure), butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789,
Givaudan-Roure), octyl triazone (Uvinul T150, BASF), yellow, brown,
black or red iron oxides, or titanium oxides, which can be provided
in the micro-metric or nanometric form or in the coated form.
[0088] The amount of biomass cultured on thermal water or of its
extracts present in the compositions according to the invention
will be adjusted by a person skilled in the art in order to obtain
the desired activity, according to the type of extract used. By way
of indication, the amount in the compositions will be between
0.001% and 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the
composition, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight; in particular,
it will be at least 0.1% by weight.
[0089] The invention also comprises a method for improving the
condition of the skin and/or superficial body growths, in which at
least one bacterium, capable of being obtained by culturing on a
medium comprising a thermal or mineral water as are defined above,
one of its extracts or a composition comprising them is applied to
the skin and/or superficial body growths.
[0090] According to one of the aspects of the invention, it relates
to a process for the preparation of a composition, in particular a
cosmetic or dermatological composition, in which at least one
bacterium, capable of being obtained by culturing on a medium
comprising a thermal or mineral water as are defined above, or one
of its extracts is mixed with at least one physiologically
acceptable medium and adjuvants appropriate for the method of
administration.
[0091] The invention will be illustrated in more detail in the
following examples.
EXAMPLE 1
Preparation of the Biomass
Preparation of the Culture Medium:
Composition:
TABLE-US-00003 [0092] Yeast extract 2 g Soybean papain peptone 2 g
Glucose 2 g Heller microelements 2 ml CaCl.sub.2.cndot.2H.sub.2O
66.21 mg Thermal water from q.s. for 1 litre La Roche-Posay
[0093] The pH of the medium is adjusted to 5.00 with a molar
H.sub.3PO.sub.4 solution. The medium is sterilized by autoclaving
at 121.degree. C. for 30 minutes. After cooling to ambient
temperature, the pH is readjusted to 7.20 by addition of a molar
KOH solution.
Culturing:
[0094] After inoculating the medium at 1% with V. filiformis
deposited at the ATCC under No. 15551, the culture is placed under
orbital shaking at 100 revolutions/min and at 26.degree. C. After
growing for 48 hours, the culture is centrifuged at 8000 g for 15
minutes. The pellets are recovered and then autoclaved at
121.degree. C. for 30 minutes. This biomass can be used for
evaluation tests.
EXAMPLE 2
Comparison of the Effect of a Biomass Obtained with or without
Thermal Water
[0095] The aim of this study is to try to determine the effects on
differential gene expression in human keratinocyte cultures of the
biomass obtained by culturing on a culture medium reconstituted
with osmotically treated water (recorded as "biomass" in the
table), of the biomass obtained by culturing on a medium
reconstituted with thermal water from La Roche-Posay ("biomass
LRP") and of thermal water from La Roche-Posay ("thermal water
LRP").
[0096] The biomass is obtained by culturing the microorganism (V.
filiformis deposited at the ATCC under No. 15551) in the presence
or absence of thermal water from La Roche-Posay. It is introduced
at a concentration of 2%.
TABLE-US-00004 Keratinocyte Product tested Corneodesmosin LEP16
Control -- -- Biomass -- -- Biomass LRP +130% +128% Thermal water
LRP -- -- (--) indicates the nonexpression of the gene screened
[0097] These results are confirmed by analysis by RT-qPCR of the
corneodesmosin and LEP16 markers on a keratinocyte culture.
[0098] In a keratinocyte culture, only the biomass cultured on
thermal water from La Roche-Posay stimulates the expressions of the
corneodesmosin and LEP16. The biomass cultured on osmotically
treated water or the thermal water from La Roche-Posay do not have
an effect on the expression of these marker genes for
keratinocytes. In parallel, the ultrapure water from Merck used as
control has no effect on the expression of the genes under
consideration.
EXAMPLE 3
Differences in Expression Between the Cultivation of Vitreoscilla
filiformis on Water from La Roche-Posay Versus the Cultivation of
Vitreoscilla filiformis on Osmotically Treated Water
[0099] Two-dimensional electrophoresis was used as means for
separating and visualizing the proteins expressed in the
Vitreoscilla filiformis biomass, in one case cultured on water from
La Roche-Posay and in the other case cultured on osmotically
treated water.
[0100] This method of analysis consists in separating the proteins
as a function of their pHi in a first "horizontal" dimension (this
is isoelectric focusing or IEF). This separation takes place via a
gel comprising an immobilized pH gradient, also known as IPG
strips. The proteins are subsequently separated as a function of
their molecular weights in a second "vertical" migration dimension.
The results show that the 2D gels are very rich in proteins; the
latter are distributed in a molecular weight range between 6 kDa
and 100 kDa, with an abundance of proteins in the region of acidic
pH values. The rapid analysis of the image shows 6 different spots,
on the one hand, the overexpression of two proteins in the biomass
cultured on water from La Roche-Posay and, on the other hand, 4
proteins which appear to be more expressed in the biomass cultured
on osmotically treated water.
[0101] These results show that there exists a difference in level
of expression of the proteins in the biomasses cultured on
osmotically treated water in comparison with that cultured on water
from La Roche-Posay.
EXAMPLE 4
Increase in the Growth with Water from Vittel
[0102] Tests on culturing Vitreoscilla filiformis in a 10-litre
fermenter in continuous mode were carried out starting from media
partially reconstituted with osmotically treated water (control
test) and with mineral water from Vittel (at 2%). The degree of
growth set by the continuous culturing method was fixed at 0.12
h.sup.-1 and the culturing conditions were identical in the 2
tests. The biomass was concentrated by centrifuging a continuously
harvested culture volume. The measurement of the absorbance at 600
nm makes it possible to monitor the growth of the culture. The
sludges obtained were stabilized by autoclaving at 121.degree. C.
for 30 minutes. The solids content and the amount of sludges
harvested make it possible, from the culture volume centrifuged, to
determine the cell concentration (in g/l) of the corresponding
culture.
[0103] Summarizing table for the tests:
TABLE-US-00005 Solvent for reconstituting Amount the Culture of
Solids concentrated volume sludges content [cell] Absorbance
culture medium (l) (g) (%) (g/l) (600 nm) Osmotically 10.98 220
5.41 1.08 3.17 treated water Mineral water 7.938 415 2.37 1.24 4.39
Vittel
CONCLUSION
[0104] In comparison with the control culture on a medium
reconstituted with osmotically treated water, the use of water from
Vittel improves the growth of the bacterium; the cell yield is
increased by 13%.
EXAMPLE 5
Composition Comprising a Vitreoscilla filiformis Extract
[0105] Phases A, B, C and D are prepared and successively
mixed:
TABLE-US-00006 Phase Amount (g) A PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone 10 A
Polysorbate 20 0.5 A Cyclopentasiloxane 17 A Cetyl dimethicone 6 A
Tocopherol 0.1 A Preservatives 0.7 B Water 25 B Magnesium sulphate
1 B Glycerol 7 B Propylene glycol 3 C Water 18.4 D Water 10 D
Vitreoscilla filiformis extract* 1 *cultured according to Example 1
but on a medium comprising 1% of water from La Roche-Posay, the
remainder being osmotically treated water.
[0106] The composition thus obtained can be applied morning and/or
evening to the face, neck, hands and/or the whole of the body.
* * * * *