U.S. patent application number 12/665532 was filed with the patent office on 2011-03-10 for hydrocarbon mixtures and use thereof.
This patent application is currently assigned to COGNIS IP MANAGEMENT GMBH. Invention is credited to Markus Dierker, Bettina Jackwerth, Rolf Kawa, Stefanie Maurer.
Application Number | 20110059032 12/665532 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 40156733 |
Filed Date | 2011-03-10 |
United States Patent
Application |
20110059032 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Dierker; Markus ; et
al. |
March 10, 2011 |
Hydrocarbon Mixtures and use Thereof
Abstract
The invention relates to a hydrocarbon mixture that contains at
least two hydrocarbons that are different from each other, the
number of carbons thereof differing by more than one, wherein said
two hydrocarbons that differ from each other make up at least 60%
by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight of the total of the
hydrocarbons. The invention also relates to the use of said
hydrocarbon mixtures and to cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
preparations containing said hydrocarbon mixtures.
Inventors: |
Dierker; Markus;
(Duesseldorf, DE) ; Jackwerth; Bettina;
(Langenfeld, DE) ; Kawa; Rolf; (Monheim, DE)
; Maurer; Stefanie; (Mannheim, DE) |
Assignee: |
COGNIS IP MANAGEMENT GMBH
Duesseldorf
DE
|
Family ID: |
40156733 |
Appl. No.: |
12/665532 |
Filed: |
June 12, 2008 |
PCT Filed: |
June 12, 2008 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/EP08/04702 |
371 Date: |
December 18, 2009 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/59 ; 424/66;
514/762 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 2800/10 20130101;
A61Q 19/10 20130101; A61K 8/062 20130101; A61K 8/31 20130101; A61K
2800/591 20130101; A61K 8/064 20130101; A61Q 1/04 20130101; A61Q
17/04 20130101; A61K 31/01 20130101; A61Q 15/00 20130101; A61K
9/0014 20130101; A61Q 5/06 20130101; A61Q 19/04 20130101; A61Q
19/00 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/59 ; 514/762;
424/66 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/28 20060101
A61K008/28; A61K 31/01 20060101 A61K031/01; A61K 8/18 20060101
A61K008/18; A61Q 17/04 20060101 A61Q017/04; A61Q 15/00 20060101
A61Q015/00; A61Q 19/00 20060101 A61Q019/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jun 19, 2007 |
EP |
07011967.2 |
Jun 20, 2007 |
EP |
07075513.7 |
Mar 4, 2008 |
DE |
102008012458.3 |
Apr 3, 2008 |
DE |
102008017032.1 |
Apr 3, 2008 |
DE |
102008017034.8 |
Claims
1. A hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1, said at
least two different hydrocarbons making up at least 60% by weight
based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
2. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 1 which comprises at least two
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by 2.
3. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 1 wherein said hydrocarbon
mixture comprises hydrocarbons which are selected from the group of
hydrocarbons having 7 to 23 carbon atoms.
4. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 1 comprising less than or equal
to 50% by weight of branched hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
5. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 1 comprising less than or equal
to 20% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
6. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 1 comprising less than or equal
to 50% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons, based on the sum of
the hydrocarbons.
7. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 1 comprising less than or equal
to 20% by weight of even-numbered hydrocarbons, based on the sum of
the hydrocarbons.
8. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 1 wherein said at least two
different hydrocarbons are selected from the group consisting of
linear C11 and linear C13 hydrocarbons, linear C11 and linear C15
hydrocarbons, linear C13 and linear C15 hydrocarbons, linear C15
and linear C17 hydrocarbons, linear C17 and linear C19 hydrocarbons
and/or from linear C19 and linear C21 hydrocarbons.
9. A method of preparing a cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulation comprising adding a hydrocarbon mixture of claim 1.
10. A cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation comprising 0.1 to
80% by weight of a hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1,
said at least two different hydrocarbons making up at least 60% by
weight based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
11. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation of claim 10
comprising at least one antiperspirant or deodorant active
ingredient.
12. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation of claim 10
comprising at least one UV light protection filter.
13. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation of claim 10
comprising at least one self-tanning agent.
14. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation of claim 10
comprising at least one pigment and/or dye.
15. The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation of claim 10
comprising at least one emulsifier and/or a surfactant and/or a wax
component and/or a polymer and/or a further oil body.
16. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 3 wherein said hydrocarbon
mixture comprises hydrocarbons which are selected from the group of
hydrocarbons having 11 to 21 carbon atoms.
17. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 4 comprising less than or
equal to 1% by weight of branched hydrocarbons, based on the sum of
the hydrocarbons.
18. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 5 comprising less than or
equal to 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, based on the sum of
the hydrocarbons.
19. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 6 comprising less than or
equal to 1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons, based on the sum
of the hydrocarbons.
20. The hydrocarbon mixture of claim 7 comprising less than or
equal to 5% by weight of even-numbered hydrocarbons, based on the
sum of the hydrocarbons.
21. The method of claim 9 wherein said hydrocarbon mixture is added
as an oil body and/or dispersant.
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a hydrocarbon mixture which
comprises at least two different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers
differ by more than 1, these two different hydrocarbons making up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons. The present invention further relates
to the use of these hydrocarbon mixtures and to cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprising these hydrocarbon
mixtures.
STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Sensorily light oil bodies, known as "light emollients", are
used by the cosmetics industry in a multitude of formulations.
Especially for decorative cosmetics or in care formulations, what
are known as "light" components are used. These components may, for
example, be volatile, cyclic silicones (e.g. cyclopentasiloxane or
cyclomethicones) or hydrocarbons from petrochemical processes.
Owing to their preparation, the latter substances are predominantly
mixtures of linear, cyclic and branched hydrocarbons whose
flashpoint may quite possibly be below 50.degree. C. (as, for
example, in the case of isododecane). Examples and
application-related descriptions of such formulations can be found
in standard works, for example: "Handbook of Cosmetic Science and
Technology", A. Barel, M. Paye, H. Maibach, Marcel Dekker Inc.
2001. For toxicological, ecological and safety reasons, however,
there will in the future be a demand for alternative raw materials
for such formulation tasks.
[0003] Substances used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations
under the name "mineral oil" include the liquid distillation
products which are obtained from mineral raw materials (mineral
oil, brown and hard coals) and consist essentially of mixtures of
saturated hydrocarbons with linear, cyclic and/or branched
structure. These hydrocarbon mixtures must, however, be purified
and chemically modified in a complicated manner before they meet
the demands on cosmetic raw materials.
[0004] It was an object of the invention to find alternative raw
materials which are ecologically and toxicologically
uncontroversial. More particularly, it was of interest to provide
raw materials which can be used directly in cosmetic or
pharmaceutical formulations without complicated purification steps.
These raw materials should preferably be obtainable on the basis of
renewable raw materials. These raw materials should be usable
directly in typical cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations
without application-related restrictions. Furthermore, the raw
materials should have improved sensory properties over the
hydrocarbon mixtures of the prior art, and it would also be
desirable that these raw materials have a better skin
compatibility. It was of particular interest to provide raw
materials whose possible uses with regard to formulation or sensory
properties are comparable to those of silicone oils, especially to
those of low-viscosity silicone oils, for example dimethicones. It
was desirable, more particularly, to provide raw materials which
are suitable as substitutes for silicone oils. It was additionally
of interest to provide raw materials which have an improved
CO.sub.2 balance compared to the prior art raw materials.
[0005] It was a further object to provide raw materials which
enable a stable formulation with AP/Deo (=antiperspirant/deodorant)
active ingredients. Cosmetic formulations for the
antiperspirants/deodorants category, especially in so-called "stick
formulations", still have the problem of insufficient stability of
the cosmetic base. In this context, one property in need of
improvement is the hardness of the "stick formulation" produced. A
disadvantage of existing "stick formulations" is that changes in
odor arise during storage. It is therefore a further object of the
invention to provide raw materials which enable antiperspirant or
deodorant formulations, especially those in "stick formulations",
to be provided in stable form. These formulations should not
exhibit any undesired evolution of odor, especially in the course
of prolonged storage. It was a further object to provide raw
materials which impart a sensorily "light" impression, if at all
possible with simultaneously improved skin compatibility,
especially in combination with UV light protection filters and in
combination with self-tanning agents. Of particular interest is the
provision of novel raw materials which enable a sensorily
advantageous impression in decorative cosmetics formulations. Owing
to the site of application (principally face and hands), increased
demands are made on the sensory properties, especially the
volatility, on formulations in decorative cosmetics, for example
lipsticks, eyeshadow, mascara, nail varnish, etc., in order that
these products do not give the impression of "heaviness". In
addition, good dispersibility of pigments is desirable in these
products.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0006] The invention provides a hydrocarbon mixture which comprises
at least two different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by
more than 1, these two different hydrocarbons making up at least
60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on the sum
of the hydrocarbons.
[0007] The expression "two different hydrocarbons" refers to
hydrocarbons having a different carbon number.
[0008] The term "carbon number" includes all carbon atoms present
in the hydrocarbon. It is thus, for example, 11 for undecane or 13
for tridecane.
[0009] This means, when the hydrocarbon mixture comprises a
hydrocarbon with a carbon number of n (n=integer), the mixture
comprises at least one further hydrocarbon with a carbon number of
greater than or equal to n+2 or less than or equal to n-2.
[0010] n is preferably an odd number, especially 7, 9, 11, 13, 15,
17, 19, 21 and/or 23.
[0011] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by 2. In this embodiment
of the invention, the hydrocarbon mixture comprises, in addition to
the hydrocarbon with a carbon number of n, also at least one
hydrocarbon with a carbon number of n+2.
[0012] In a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbons present in the
hydrocarbon mixture differ by not more than 10 carbon atoms,
preferably by not more than 8 carbon atoms, especially by not more
than 6 carbon atoms, preferably by not more than 4 carbon
atoms.
[0013] The invention preferably comprises a hydrocarbon mixture
which comprises a hydrocarbon with a carbon number of n, and at
least one further hydrocarbon with a carbon number of n+2 and/or
n+4 and/or n+6 and/or n+8 and/or n+10.
[0014] The hydrocarbons are preferably selected from the group of
the hydrocarbons having 7 to 23 carbon atoms, preferably having 11
to 21 carbon atoms.
[0015] Hydrocarbons refer to organic compounds which consist only
of carbon and hydrogen. They include both cyclic and acyclic
(=aliphatic) compounds. They include both saturated and mono- or
polyunsaturated compounds. The hydrocarbons may be linear or
branched. According to the number of carbon atoms in the
hydrocarbon, the hydrocarbons can be divided into odd-numbered
hydrocarbons (for example nonane, undecane, tridecane) or
even-numbered hydrocarbons (for example octane, dodecane,
tetradecane). According to the branching, the hydrocarbons can be
divided into linear (=unbranched) or branched hydrocarbons.
Saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons are also referred to as
paraffins.
[0016] In the context of the invention, "hydrocarbon mixtures"
refer to mixtures of hydrocarbons which comprise up to 10% by
weight of substances which are not hydrocarbons. The percentages by
weight of the hydrocarbons are based in each case on the sum of the
hydrocarbons present in the mixture. The up to 10% by weight of
nonhydrocarbons present are not considered for this
calculation.
[0017] The substances which are not hydrocarbons and which may be
present at up to 10% by weight, especially up to 8% by weight,
preferably up to 5% by weight, in the inventive hydrocarbon mixture
are, for example, fatty alcohols which remain as unconverted
reactants in the hydrocarbon mixture.
[0018] The term "CX hydrocarbon" refers to hydrocarbons having a
carbon number of X; for example, the term "C11 hydrocarbon"
includes all hydrocarbons having a carbon number of 11.
[0019] The reference parameter "sum of the hydrocarbons" includes
all hydrocarbons present in the mixture, irrespective of their
carbon number.
[0020] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than one and which
comprises less than or equal to 50% by weight, especially less than
or equal to 20% by weight, especially less than or equal to 10% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably
less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal
to 3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight,
especially less than or equal to 1% by weight, of branched
hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0021] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than one and which
comprises less than or equal to 20% by weight, especially less than
or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably
less than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably less than or equal
to 2% by weight, especially less than or equal to 1% by weight, of
aromatic hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons. In a
preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon mixture
comprises less than or equal to 0.1%, especially less than or equal
to 0.01% and especially less than or equal to 0.001% by weight of
aromatic hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0022] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than one and which
comprises less than or equal to 50% by weight, especially less than
or equal to 20% by weight, especially less than or equal to 10% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably
less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal
to 3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight,
especially less than or equal to 1% by weight, of unsaturated
hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons. In a preferred
embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon mixture comprises less
than or equal to 0.1%, especially less than or equal to 0.01% and
especially less than or equal to 0.001% by weight of unsaturated
hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0023] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than one and which
comprises less than or equal to 20% by weight, especially less than
or equal to 15% by weight, especially less than or equal to 10% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably
less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably less than or equal
to 5% by weight, of even-numbered hydrocarbons, based on the sum of
the hydrocarbons.
[0024] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than one and in
which the two different hydrocarbons preferably make up at least
80% by weight, especially at least 90% by weight--based on the sum
of the hydrocarbons.
[0025] It is particularly preferred when these two different
hydrocarbons are hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by 2. In
other words, in a preferred embodiment of the inventive hydrocarbon
mixture, at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight,
preferably at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% by
weight, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons, consists of a
hydrocarbon with the carbon number n and a hydrocarbon with the
carbon number n+2.
[0026] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture wherein the two different hydrocarbons are
selected from the group consisting of linear C11 and linear C13
hydrocarbons, linear C11 and linear C15 hydrocarbons, linear C13
and linear C15 hydrocarbons, linear C15 and linear C17
hydrocarbons, linear C17 and linear C19 hydrocarbons and/or from
linear C19 and linear C21 hydrocarbons.
[0027] Hydrocarbon Mixture Comprising Linear C11 and Linear C13
Hydrocarbons
[0028] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1 and wherein
these two different hydrocarbons make up at least 60% by weight,
preferably at least 70% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons, and which comprises linear C11 and linear C13
hydrocarbons. The linear C11 hydrocarbon is preferably n-undecane.
The linear C13 hydrocarbon is preferably n-tridecane. In a
preferred embodiment of the invention, the inventive hydrocarbon
mixture comprises linear C11 and linear C13 hydrocarbons, and at
least one further linear hydrocarbon selected from the group
consisting of C12, C15, C16, C17, C18, C19, C20, C21 and C23
hydrocarbons, preferably selected from the group consisting of C15,
C17, C19, C21 and C23 hydrocarbons. Preference is given to linear
saturated hydrocarbons. A preferred linear C15 hydrocarbon is
n-pentadecane; a preferred linear C17 hydrocarbon is n-heptadecane;
a preferred linear C19 hydrocarbon is n-nonadecane.
[0029] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the inventive
hydrocarbon mixture comprises linear C11 and linear C13
hydrocarbons, and at least one linear C15 hydrocarbon and/or a
linear C17 hydrocarbon. A preferred linear C15 hydrocarbon is
n-pentadecane; a preferred linear C17 hydrocarbon is
n-heptadecane.
[0030] One embodiment of the invention relates to a hydrocarbon
mixture which comprises [0031] (a) 50 to 90% by weight of linear
C-11 hydrocarbons, preferably n-undecane, [0032] (b) 10 to 50% by
weight of linear C-13 hydrocarbons, preferably n-tridecane, [0033]
based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0034] Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon mixtures which
comprise [0035] (a) 55 to 80% by weight, especially 60 to 75% by
weight, especially 65 to 70% by weight, of linear C-11
hydrocarbons, preferably n-undecane, [0036] (b) 20 to 45% by
weight, especially 24 to 40% by weight, especially 24 to 30% by
weight, of linear C-13 hydrocarbons, preferably n-tridecane, [0037]
based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0038] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture, characterized in that the sum of the linear
C11 and linear C13 hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 70% by
weight, especially greater than or equal to 80% by weight,
preferably greater than or equal to 90% by weight, more preferably
greater than or equal to 95% by weight, especially greater than or
equal to 99% by weight, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons. In a
preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of linear
C11 hydrocarbons to linear C13 hydrocarbons is 1.5 to 3.5.
[0039] Particular preference is given to inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the linear C11 and/or linear C13 hydrocarbons are
saturated hydrocarbons; preferably, both the linear C11 and the
linear C13 hydrocarbons are saturated hydrocarbons (n-undecane and
n-tridecane).
[0040] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures comprise less than or equal to 10% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal
to 3% by weight, of C-12 hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0041] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C11 and linear C13
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C11 and linear C13
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and wherein the sum of the
hydrocarbons with a carbon chain length greater than or equal to 14
is less than or equal to 15% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons. Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the sum of the hydrocarbons with a carbon chain
length less than or equal to 14 is less than or equal to 10% by
weight, especially less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably
less than or equal to 4% by weight, especially less than or equal
to 2% by weight, based in each case on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0042] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C11 and linear C13
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C11 and linear C13
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and the sum of the hydrocarbons with a
carbon chain length of less than or equal to 10 is less than or
equal to 3% by weight, especially less than or equal to 2% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 1% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0043] In one embodiment of the invention, the inventive
hydrocarbon mixture comprises C12 and C14 hydrocarbons, preferably
in the same weight ratio relative to one another as the linear C11
hydrocarbons to the linear C13 hydrocarbons. In a preferred
embodiment of the invention, both the weight ratio of linear C11
hydrocarbons to linear C13 hydrocarbons and the weight ratio of C12
to C14 hydrocarbons are 1.5 to 3.5.
[0044] Hydrocarbon Mixture Comprising Linear C11 and Linear C15
Hydrocarbons
[0045] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1 and wherein
these two different hydrocarbons make up at least 60% by weight,
preferably at least 70% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons, and which comprises linear C11 and linear C15
hydrocarbons. The linear C11 hydrocarbon is preferably n-undecane.
The linear C15 hydrocarbon is preferably n-pentadecane. In a
preferred embodiment of the invention, the inventive hydrocarbon
mixture comprises linear C11 and linear C15 hydrocarbons, and at
least one further linear hydrocarbon selected from the group
consisting of C12, C13, C14, C16, C17, C18, C19, C20, C21 and C23
hydrocarbons, preferably selected from the group consisting of C13,
C17, C19, C21 and C23 hydrocarbons. Preference is given to linear
saturated hydrocarbons. A preferred linear C13 hydrocarbon is
n-tridecane; a preferred linear C17 hydrocarbon is n-heptadecane; a
preferred linear C19 hydrocarbon is n-nonadecane.
[0046] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the inventive
hydrocarbon mixture comprises linear C11 and linear C15
hydrocarbons, and at least one linear C13 hydrocarbon and/or a
linear C17 hydrocarbon. A preferred linear C13 hydrocarbon is
n-tridecane; a preferred linear C17 hydrocarbon is
n-heptadecane.
[0047] One embodiment of the invention relates to a hydrocarbon
mixture which comprises [0048] (a) 50 to 90% by weight of linear
C-11 hydrocarbons, preferably n-undecane, [0049] (b) 10 to 50% by
weight of linear C-15 hydrocarbons, preferably n-pentadecane,
[0050] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0051] Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon mixtures which
comprise [0052] (a) 55 to 80% by weight, especially 60 to 75% by
weight, especially 65 to 70% by weight, of linear C-11
hydrocarbons, preferably n-undecane, [0053] (b) 20 to 45% by
weight, especially 24 to 40% by weight, especially 24 to 30% by
weight, of linear C-15 hydrocarbons, preferably n-pentadecane,
[0054] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0055] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture, characterized in that the sum of the linear
C11 and linear C15 hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 70% by
weight, especially greater than or equal to 80% by weight,
preferably greater than or equal to 90% by weight, more preferably
greater than or equal to 95% by weight, especially greater than or
equal to 99% by weight, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons. In a
preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of linear
C11 hydrocarbons to linear C15 hydrocarbons is 1.5 to 3.5.
[0056] Particular preference is given to inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the linear C11 and/or linear C15 hydrocarbons are
saturated hydrocarbons; preferably, both the linear C11 and the
linear C13 hydrocarbons are saturated hydrocarbons (n-undecane and
n-pentadecane).
[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures comprise less than or equal to 10% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal
to 3% by weight, of C-12 hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0058] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C11 and linear C15
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C11 and linear C15
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and wherein the sum of the
hydrocarbons with a carbon chain length greater than or equal to 16
is less than or equal to 15% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons. Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the sum of the hydrocarbons with a carbon chain
length less than or equal to 14 is less than or equal to 10% by
weight, especially less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably
less than or equal to 4% by weight, especially less than or equal
to 2% by weight, based in each case on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0059] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C11 and linear C15
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C11 and linear C15
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and the sum of the hydrocarbons with a
carbon chain length of less than or equal to 10 is less than or
equal to 3% by weight, especially less than or equal to 2% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 1% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0060] In one embodiment of the invention, the inventive
hydrocarbon mixture comprises C12 and C16 hydrocarbons, preferably
in the same weight ratio relative to one another as the linear C11
hydrocarbons to the linear C15 hydrocarbons. In a preferred
embodiment of the invention, both the weight ratio of linear C11
hydrocarbons to linear C15 hydrocarbons and the weight ratio of C12
to C16 hydrocarbons are 1.5 to 3.5.
[0061] Hydrocarbon Mixture Comprising Linear C13 and Linear C15
Hydrocarbons
[0062] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1 and wherein
these two different hydrocarbons make up at least 60% by weight,
preferably at least 70% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons, and which comprises linear C13 and linear C15
hydrocarbons. The linear C13 hydrocarbon is preferably n-tridecane.
The linear C15 hydrocarbon is preferably n-pentadecane. In a
preferred embodiment of the invention, the inventive hydrocarbon
mixture comprises linear C13 and linear C15 hydrocarbons, and at
least one further linear hydrocarbon selected from the group
consisting of C11, C12, C14, C16, C17, C18, C19, C20, C21 and C23
hydrocarbons, preferably selected from the group consisting of C11,
C17, C19, C21 and C23 hydrocarbons. Preference is given to linear
saturated hydrocarbons. A preferred linear C11 hydrocarbon is
n-undecane; a preferred linear C17 hydrocarbon is n-heptadecane; a
preferred linear C19 hydrocarbon is n-nonadecane.
[0063] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises [0064] (a) 50 to 90% by weight
of linear C-13 hydrocarbons, preferably n-tridecane, [0065] (b) 10
to 50% by weight of linear C-15 hydrocarbons, preferably
n-pentadecane, [0066] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0067] Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon mixtures which
comprise [0068] (a) 55 to 80% by weight, especially 60 to 75% by
weight, especially 65 to 70% by weight, of linear C-13
hydrocarbons, preferably n-tridecane, [0069] (b) 20 to 45% by
weight, especially 24 to 40% by weight, especially 24 to 30% by
weight, of linear C-15 hydrocarbons, preferably n-pentadecane,
[0070] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0071] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture, characterized in that the sum of the linear
C13 and linear C15 hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 70% by
weight, especially greater than or equal to 80% by weight,
preferably greater than or equal to 90% by weight, more preferably
greater than or equal to 95% by weight, especially greater than or
equal to 99% by weight, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0072] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio
of linear C13 hydrocarbons to linear C15 hydrocarbons is 1.5 to
3.5.
[0073] Particular preference is given to inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the linear C13 and/or linear C15 hydrocarbons are
saturated hydrocarbons; preferably, both the linear C13 and the
linear C15 hydrocarbons are saturated hydrocarbons (n-tridecane and
n-pentadecane).
[0074] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures comprise less than or equal to 10% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal
to 3% by weight, of C-14 hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0075] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C13 and linear C15
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C13 and linear C15
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and wherein the sum of the
hydrocarbons with a carbon chain length greater than or equal to 16
is less than or equal to 15% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons. Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the sum of the hydrocarbons with a carbon chain
length greater than or equal to 16 is less than or equal to 10% by
weight, especially less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably
less than or equal to 4% by weight, especially less than or equal
to 2% by weight, based in each case on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0076] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C13 and linear C15
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C13 and linear C15
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and the sum of the hydrocarbons with a
carbon chain length of less than or equal to 12 is less than or
equal to 3% by weight, especially less than or equal to 2% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 1% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0077] In one embodiment of the invention, the inventive
hydrocarbon mixtures comprise C14 and C16 hydrocarbons, preferably
in the same weight ratio relative to one another as the linear C13
hydrocarbons to the linear C15 hydrocarbons. In a preferred
embodiment of the invention, both the weight ratio of linear C13
hydrocarbons to linear C15 hydrocarbons and the weight ratio of C14
to C16 hydrocarbons are 1.5 to 3.5.
[0078] Hydrocarbon Mixture Comprising Linear C15 and Linear C17
Hydrocarbons
[0079] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1 and wherein
these two different hydrocarbons make up at least 60% by weight,
preferably at least 70% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons, and which comprises linear C15 and linear C17
hydrocarbons. The linear C15 hydrocarbon is preferably
n-pentadecane. The linear C17 hydrocarbon is preferably
n-heptadecane. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the
inventive hydrocarbon mixture comprises linear C15 and linear C17
hydrocarbons, and at least one further linear hydrocarbon selected
from the group consisting of C11, C12, C13, C14, C16, C18, C19,
C20, C21 and C23 hydrocarbons, preferably selected from the group
consisting of C11, C13, C19, C21 and C23 hydrocarbons. Preference
is given to linear saturated hydrocarbons. A preferred linear C11
hydrocarbon is n-undecane; a preferred linear C13 hydrocarbon is
n-tridecane; a preferred linear C19 hydrocarbon is
n-nonadecane.
[0080] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises [0081] (a) 50 to 90% by weight
of linear C-15 hydrocarbons, preferably n-pentadecane, [0082] (b)
10 to 50% by weight of linear C-17 hydrocarbons, preferably
n-heptadecane, [0083] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0084] Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon mixtures which
comprise [0085] (a) 55 to 80% by weight, especially 60 to 75% by
weight, especially 65 to 70% by weight, of linear C-15
hydrocarbons, preferably n-pentadecane, [0086] (b) 20 to 45% by
weight, especially 24 to 40% by weight, especially 24 to 30% by
weight, of linear C-17 hydrocarbons, preferably n-heptadecane,
[0087] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0088] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture, characterized in that the sum of the linear
C15 and linear C17 hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 70% by
weight, especially greater than or equal to 80% by weight,
preferably greater than or equal to 90% by weight, more preferably
greater than or equal to 95% by weight, especially greater than or
equal to 99% by weight, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0089] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio
of linear C15 hydrocarbons to linear C17 hydrocarbons is 1.5 to
3.5.
[0090] Particular preference is given to inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the linear C15 and/or linear C17 hydrocarbons are
saturated hydrocarbons; preferably, both the linear C15 and the
linear C17 hydrocarbons are saturated hydrocarbons (n-pentadecane
and n-heptadecane).
[0091] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures comprise less than or equal to 10% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal
to 3% by weight, of C-16 hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0092] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C15 and linear C17
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C15 and linear C17
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and wherein the sum of the
hydrocarbons with a carbon chain length greater than or equal to 18
is less than or equal to 15% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons. Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the sum of the hydrocarbons with a carbon chain
length greater than or equal to 18 is less than or equal to 10% by
weight, especially less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably
less than or equal to 4% by weight, especially less than or equal
to 2% by weight, based in each case on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0093] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C15 and linear C17
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C15 and linear C17
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and the sum of the hydrocarbons with a
carbon chain length of less than or equal to 14 is less than or
equal to 3% by weight, especially less than or equal to 2% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 1% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0094] In one embodiment of the invention, the inventive
hydrocarbon mixtures comprise C16 and C18 hydrocarbons, preferably
in the same weight ratio relative to one another as the linear C15
hydrocarbons to the linear C17 hydrocarbons. In a preferred
embodiment of the invention, both the weight ratio of linear C15
hydrocarbons to linear C17 hydrocarbons and the weight ratio of C16
to C18 hydrocarbons are 1.5 to 3.5.
[0095] Hydrocarbon Mixture Comprising Linear C17 and Linear C19
Hydrocarbons
[0096] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1 and wherein
these two different hydrocarbons make up at least 60% by weight,
preferably at least 70% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons, and which comprises linear C17 and linear C19
hydrocarbons. The linear C17 hydrocarbon is preferably
n-heptadecane. The linear C19 hydrocarbon is preferably
n-nonadecane. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the
inventive hydrocarbon mixture comprises linear C17 and linear C19
hydrocarbons, and at least one further linear hydrocarbon selected
from the group consisting of C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C18,
C20, C21 and C23 hydrocarbons, preferably selected from the group
consisting of C11, C13, C15, C21 and C23 hydrocarbons. Preference
is given to linear saturated hydrocarbons. A preferred linear C11
hydrocarbon is n-undecane; a preferred linear C13 hydrocarbon is
n-tridecane; a preferred linear C15 hydrocarbon is n-pentadecane. A
particularly preferred further linear hydrocarbon is n-heneicosane
(C21 linear, saturated).
[0097] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises [0098] (a) 50 to 90% by weight
of linear C-17 hydrocarbons, preferably n-heptadecane, [0099] (b)
10 to 50% by weight of linear C-19 hydrocarbons, preferably
n-nonadecane, [0100] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0101] Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon mixtures which
comprise [0102] (a) 55 to 80% by weight, especially 60 to 75% by
weight, especially 65 to 70% by weight, of linear C-17
hydrocarbons, preferably n-heptadecane, [0103] (b) 20 to 45% by
weight, especially 24 to 40% by weight, especially 24 to 30% by
weight, of linear C-19 hydrocarbons, preferably n-nonadecane,
[0104] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0105] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture, characterized in that the sum of the linear
C17 and linear C19 hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 70% by
weight, especially greater than or equal to 80% by weight,
preferably greater than or equal to 90% by weight, more preferably
greater than or equal to 95% by weight, especially greater than or
equal to 99% by weight, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0106] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio
of linear C17 hydrocarbons to linear C19 hydrocarbons is 1.5 to
3.5.
[0107] Particular preference is given to inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the linear C17 and/or linear C19 hydrocarbons are
saturated hydrocarbons; preferably, both the linear C17 and the
linear C19 hydrocarbons are saturated hydrocarbons (n-heptadecane
and n-nonadecane).
[0108] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures comprise less than or equal to 10% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal
to 3% by weight, of C-18 hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0109] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C17 and linear C19
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C17 and linear C19
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and wherein the sum of the
hydrocarbons with a carbon chain length greater than or equal to 20
is less than or equal to 15% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons. Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the sum of the hydrocarbons with a carbon chain
length greater than or equal to 18 is less than or equal to 10% by
weight, especially less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably
less than or equal to 4% by weight, especially less than or equal
to 2% by weight, based in each case on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0110] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C17 and linear C19
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C17 and linear C19
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and the sum of the hydrocarbons with a
carbon chain length of less than or equal to 16 is less than or
equal to 3% by weight, especially less than or equal to 2% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 1% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0111] In one embodiment of the invention, the inventive
hydrocarbon mixtures comprise C18 and C20 hydrocarbons, preferably
in the same weight ratio relative to one another as the linear C17
hydrocarbons to the linear C19 hydrocarbons. In a preferred
embodiment of the invention, both the weight ratio of linear C17
hydrocarbons to linear C19 hydrocarbons and the weight ratio of C18
to C20 hydrocarbons are 1.5 to 3.5.
[0112] Hydrocarbon Mixture Comprising Linear C19 and Linear C21
Hydrocarbons
[0113] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises at least two different
hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1 and wherein
these two different hydrocarbons make up at least 60% by weight,
preferably at least 70% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons, and which comprises linear C19 and linear C21
hydrocarbons. The linear C19 hydrocarbon is preferably
n-nonadecane. The linear C21 hydrocarbon is preferably
n-heneicosane. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the
inventive hydrocarbon mixture comprises linear C19 and linear C21
hydrocarbons, and at least one further linear hydrocarbon selected
from the group consisting of C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17,
C18, C20 and C23 hydrocarbons, preferably selected from the group
consisting of C11, C13, C15, C17 and C23 hydrocarbons. Preference
is given to linear saturated hydrocarbons. A preferred linear C11
hydrocarbon is n-undecane; a preferred linear C13 hydrocarbon is
n-tridecane; a preferred linear C17 hydrocarbon is
n-heptadecane.
[0114] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture which comprises [0115] (a) 50 to 90% by weight
of linear C-19 hydrocarbons, preferably n-nonadecane, [0116] (b) 10
to 50% by weight of linear C-21 hydrocarbons, preferably
n-heneicosane, [0117] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0118] Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon mixtures which
comprise [0119] (a) 55 to 80% by weight, especially 60 to 75% by
weight, especially 65 to 70% by weight, of linear C-19
hydrocarbons, preferably n-nonadecane, [0120] (b) 20 to 45% by
weight, especially 24 to 40% by weight, especially 24 to 30% by
weight, of linear C-21 hydrocarbons, preferably n-heneicosane,
[0121] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0122] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture, characterized in that the sum of the linear
C19 and linear C21 hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 70% by
weight, especially greater than or equal to 80% by weight,
preferably greater than or equal to 90% by weight, more preferably
greater than or equal to 95% by weight, especially greater than or
equal to 99% by weight, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0123] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio
of linear C19 hydrocarbons to linear C21 hydrocarbons is 1.5 to
3.5.
[0124] Particular preference is given to inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the linear C19 and/or linear C21 hydrocarbons are
saturated hydrocarbons; preferably, both the linear C19 and the
linear C21 hydrocarbons are saturated hydrocarbons (n-nonadecane
and n-heneicosane).
[0125] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive hydrocarbon
mixtures comprise less than or equal to 10% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal
to 3% by weight, of C-20 hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0126] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C19 and linear C21
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C19 and linear C21
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and wherein the sum of the
hydrocarbons with a carbon chain length greater than or equal to 22
is less than or equal to 15% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons. Particular preference is given to hydrocarbon
mixtures in which the sum of the hydrocarbons with a carbon chain
length greater than or equal to 22 is less than or equal to 10% by
weight, especially less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably
less than or equal to 4% by weight, especially less than or equal
to 2% by weight, based in each case on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0127] A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to a
hydrocarbon mixture comprising linear C19 and linear C21
hydrocarbons, wherein the sum of the linear C19 and linear C21
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 60% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and the sum of the hydrocarbons with a
carbon chain length of less than or equal to 18 is less than or
equal to 3% by weight, especially less than or equal to 2% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 1% by weight, based on the sum of the
hydrocarbons.
[0128] In one embodiment of the invention, the inventive
hydrocarbon mixtures comprise C20 and C22 hydrocarbons, preferably
in the same weight ratio relative to one another as the linear C19
hydrocarbons to the linear C21 hydrocarbons. In a preferred
embodiment of the invention, both the weight ratio of linear C19
hydrocarbons to linear C21 hydrocarbons and the weight ratio of C20
to C22 hydrocarbons are 1.5 to 3.5.
[0129] The inventive hydrocarbon mixtures are suitable especially
for use in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations, especially
as oil bodies and/or dispersants.
[0130] The invention further provides a process for producing a
cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation, wherein a hydrocarbon
mixture as claimed in any of claims 1 to 8 is added to a
cosmetically and/or pharmaceutically suitable carrier.
[0131] The inventive hydrocarbon mixtures are suitable especially
for use in cosmetic formulations for care of skin and/or hair.
[0132] The inventive hydrocarbon mixtures are suitable especially
for use in cosmetic formulations for sun protection.
[0133] The inventive hydrocarbon mixtures are suitable especially
for use in decorative cosmetics formulations, for example
lipsticks, lip gloss, eyeshadow, mascara, eye pencils (kohl), nail
varnish, and in makeup formulations of any kind (powders, creams,
foundations, coversticks, etc.).
[0134] The inventive hydrocarbon mixtures are suitable especially
for use in formulations for cleaning skin and/or hair, for example
shampoos, shower gels, bath additives, conditioners, etc.
[0135] The inventive hydrocarbon mixtures are also suitable for
producing finely divided emulsions, for example nanoemulsions,
microemulsions or PIT emulsions. In such finely divided emulsions,
the oil droplets are generally present with a diameter in the range
from 10 to 1000 nm, preferably 100 to 500 nm. These are produced by
processes known to those skilled in the art, described for PIT
emulsions, for example, in Parfumerie and Kosmetik [Perfumery and
Cosmetics], volume 77, no. 4/96, p. 250-254, by Wadle et al.
[0136] Production of the Hydrocarbon Mixtures
[0137] The inventive hydrocarbon mixtures can be obtained, for
example, by reductive demethylation of vegetable fatty alcohols. A
particularly suitable process for producing the inventive
hydrocarbon mixtures is that described in international application
PCT/EP2006/011647 (Cognis) for reductive dehydroxymethylation
proceeding from fatty alcohols of vegetable origin. In this
process, it is possible, for example, to subject fatty alcohols of
desired carbon chain length to individual processes among those
described and to mix the hydrocarbons thus obtained to give the
inventive hydrocarbon mixtures. Preference is given, however, to
subjecting a mixture which comprises the corresponding fatty
alcohols directly to the reductive dehydroxymethylation, such that
the reaction product obtained directly is the inventive hydrocarbon
mixture. This can be used directly, without further purification,
in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations. It is equally
possible to obtain individual hydrocarbons by purification from
commercially available hydrocarbon mixtures (from petrochemical
sources), and to blend them in the desired ratio.
[0138] Cosmetic and/or Pharmaceutical Formulations
[0139] The invention further provides cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight,
preferably 5 to 50% by weight, especially 10 to 30% by weight, of a
hydrocarbon mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at
least two different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by
more than 1, and wherein these two different hydrocarbons make up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight--based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0140] The percentages by weight (0.1 to 80% by weight of a
hydrocarbon mixture) are based on the total weight of the cosmetic
and/or pharmaceutical formulation.
[0141] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic
and/or pharmaceutical formulations comprise the hydrocarbon
mixtures as claimed in any of claims 1 to 8.
[0142] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprise hydrocarbons which are
selected from the group of the hydrocarbons having 7 to 23 carbon
atoms, preferably 11 to 21 carbon atoms.
[0143] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprise hydrocarbon mixtures which
comprise less than or equal to 50% by weight, especially less than
or equal to 20% by weight, less than or equal to 10% by weight,
preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, especially less than
or equal to 1% by weight, of branched hydrocarbons, based on the
sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0144] The parameter "sum of the hydrocarbons" in cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations includes all hydrocarbons present in
the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation, irrespective of the
carbon number thereof.
[0145] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprise hydrocarbon mixtures which
comprise less than or equal to 20% by weight, especially less than
or equal to 10% by weight, especially less than or equal to 5% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, of aromatic
hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons. In a preferred
embodiment of the invention, the formulations comprise less than or
equal to 0.1%, especially less than or equal to 0.01% by weight,
especially less than or equal to 0.001% by weight, of aromatic
hydrocarbons, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0146] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprise hydrocarbon mixtures which
comprise less than or equal to 50% by weight, especially less than
or equal to 20% by weight, less than or equal to 10% by weight,
especially less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than
or equal to 1% by weight, of unsaturated hydrocarbons, based on the
sum of the hydrocarbons. In a preferred embodiment of the
invention, the formulations comprise less than or equal to 0.1%,
especially less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, especially less
than or equal to 0.001% by weight, of unsaturated hydrocarbons,
based on the sum of the hydrocarbons.
[0147] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprise hydrocarbon mixtures which
comprise less than or equal to 20% by weight, especially less than
or equal to 15% by weight, especially less than or equal to 10% by
weight, preferably less than or equal to 9% by weight, especially
less than or equal to 8% by weight, especially less than or equal
to 5% by weight, of even-numbered hydrocarbons, based on the sum of
the hydrocarbons.
[0148] Particular preference is given to inventive cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations in which the sum of the two different
hydrocarbons is greater than or equal to 70% by weight, especially
greater than or equal to 80% by weight, preferably greater than or
equal to 90% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to
95% by weight, especially greater than or equal to 99% by weight,
based on the sum of the hydrocarbons. In one embodiment of the
invention, the hydrocarbon mixture of the cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulation consists exclusively of two different
hydrocarbons.
[0149] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprise 0.1 to 80% by weight,
preferably 5 to 50% by weight, especially 10 to 30% by weight, of a
hydrocarbon mixture in which two different hydrocarbons are
selected from the group consisting of [0150] linear C11 and linear
C13 hydrocarbons, [0151] linear C11 and linear C15 hydrocarbons,
[0152] linear C13 and linear C15 hydrocarbons, [0153] linear C15
and linear C17 hydrocarbons, [0154] linear C17 and linear C19
hydrocarbons and/or [0155] linear C19 and linear C21
hydrocarbons.
[0156] These formulations can be obtained, for example, by using an
inventive hydrocarbon mixture or by using defined amounts of
individual hydrocarbons.
[0157] Particular preference is given to cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a
hydrocarbon mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture [0158]
comprises 50 to 90% by weight of a hydrocarbon with the carbon
number n [0159] comprises 10 to 50% by weight of a hydrocarbon with
the carbon number n+2 [0160] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons,
where n is an integer from 7 to 23, preferably 11 to 21.
[0161] Particular preference is given to cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a
hydrocarbon mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture [0162]
comprises 55 to 80% by weight, especially 60 to 75% by weight,
especially 65 to 70% by weight, of a hydrocarbon with the carbon
number n [0163] comprises 20 to 45% by weight, especially 24 to 40%
by weight, especially 24 to 30% by weight, of a hydrocarbon with
the carbon number n, [0164] based on the sum of the hydrocarbons,
where n is an integer from 7 to 23, preferably 11 to 21.
[0165] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio
of the hydrocarbons with the carbon number n to the hydrocarbon
with the carbon number n+2 in the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations is 1.5 to 3.5.
[0166] The inventive cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations
are light and stable cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations,
which is the case especially when they further comprise
antiperspirant/deodorant active ingredients.
[0167] The invention therefore provides cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a
hydrocarbon mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at
least two different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by
more than 1, preferably by 2, and wherein these two different
hydrocarbons make up at least 60% by weight, preferably at least
70% by weight, based on the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least
one antiperspirant/deodorant active ingredient.
[0168] According to the invention, suitable
antiperspirant/deodorant active ingredients are all active
ingredients which counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body
odors arise as a result of the action of skin bacteria on apocrine
perspiration, which forms unpleasant-smelling degradation products.
Suitable antiperspirant/deodorant active ingredients are especially
compounds selected from the group consisting of antiperspirants,
esterase inhibitors, bactericidal or bacteriostatic active
ingredients and/or perspiration-absorbing substances.
[0169] Antiperspirants
[0170] Antiperspirants are salts of aluminum, of zirconium or of
zinc. Such suitable antihydrotic active ingredients are, for
example, aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum
dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and complexes
thereof, for example with 1,2-propylene glycol, aluminum
hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium
trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum
zirconium pentachlorohydrate and complexes thereof, for example
with amino acids such as glycine. Preference is given to using
aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate,
aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and complexes thereof.
[0171] The inventive formulations may comprise the antiperspirants
in amounts of 1 to 50%, preferably 5 to 30% and especially 8 to 25%
by weight--based on the total weight of the cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulation.
[0172] Esterase Inhibitors
[0173] In the presence of perspiration in the underarm region,
bacteria form extracellular enzymes--esterases, preferably
proteases and/or lipases--which cleave esters present in the
perspiration and thus release odorants. Suitable esterase
inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl
citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate
and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen.RTM. CAT, Cognis GmbH,
Dusseldorf/FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and hence
reduce odor formation. Further substances which are possible
esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, for example
sulfates or phosphates of lanosterol, of cholesterol, of
campesterol, of stigmasterol and of sitosterol, dicarboxylic acids
and esters thereof, for example glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate,
diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate,
malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and
esters thereof, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid
or diethyl tartrate, and zinc glycinate.
[0174] The inventive formulations may comprise the esterase
inhibitors in amounts of 0.01 to 20%, preferably 0.1 to 10% and
especially 0.3 to 5% by weight--based on the total weight of the
cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation.
[0175] Bactericidal or Bacteriostatic Active Ingredients
[0176] Typical examples of suitable bactericidal or bacteriostatic
active ingredients are especially chitosan and phenoxyethanol.
5-Chloro-2-(2,4-dichlorophenoxy)phenol has also been found to be
particularly effective, and is sold under the Irgasan.RTM. brand by
Ciba-Geigy, Basle, Switzerland. Suitable germicides are in
principle all substances which act against Gram-positive bacteria,
for example 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and the salts and esters thereof,
N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)urea,
2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan),
4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol,
2,2'-methylenebis(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol),
3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol,
3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynylbutyl
carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC),
antibacterial odorants, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil,
menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glyceryl monocaprate,
glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monolaurate (GML), diglyceryl
monocaprate (DMC), N-alkylsalicylamides, for example
n-octylsalicylamide or n-decylsalicylamide.
[0177] The inventive formulations may comprise the bactericidal or
bacteriostatic active ingredients in amounts of 0.01 to 5% and
preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight--based on the total weight of the
cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation.
[0178] Perspiration-Absorbing Substances
[0179] Useful perspiration-absorbing substances include modified
starches, for example Dry Flo Plus (from National Starch),
silicates, talc and other substances of similar polymorphism, which
appear suitable for absorption of perspiration. The inventive
formulations may comprise the perspiration-absorbing substances in
amounts of 0.1 to 30%, preferably 1 to 20% and especially 2 to 8%
by weight--based on the total weight of the cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulation.
[0180] The inventive cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations
constitute light and stable cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations, which is the case especially when they further
comprise at least one UV light protection filter.
[0181] The invention therefore provides cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a
hydrocarbon mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at
least 2 different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more
than 1, preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons
make up at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight,
based on the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one UV light
protection filter.
[0182] According to the invention, suitable UV light protection
filters are room temperature liquid or crystalline organic
substances (light protection filters) which are capable of
absorbing ultraviolet rays and releasing the energy absorbed again
in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UV filters
may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of typical
oil-soluble UV B filters or broad-spectrum UV A/B filters include:
[0183] 3-benzylidenecamphor or 3-benzylidenenorcamphor (Mexoryl SDS
20) and derivatives thereof, e.g. 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor as
described in EP 0693471 B1 [0184]
3-(4'-trimethylammonium)benzylidenebornan-2-one methylsulfate
(Mexoryl SO) [0185]
3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimethine)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]heptane--
1-methanesulfonic acid) and salts (Mexoryl SX) [0186]
3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidenebornan-2-one and salts (Mexoryl SL) [0187]
polymer of N-{(2 and
4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)-methyl}benzyl]acrylamide (Mexoryl SW)
[0188]
2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3-(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(t-
rimethylsilyloxy)-disiloxanyl)propyl)phenol (Mexoryl SL) [0189]
4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl
4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-octyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and
amyl 4-(dimethyl-amino)benzoate; [0190] esters of cinnamic acid,
preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl
4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl
2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); [0191] esters of
salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate,
4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homo-menthyl salicylate; [0192]
derivatives of benzophenone, preferably
2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,
2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone,
2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; [0193] esters of
benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl
4-methoxybenzmalonate; [0194] triazine derivatives, for example
2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine and
2,4,6-tris[p-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine
(Uvinul T 150), as described in EP 0818450 A1 or bis(2-ethylhexyl)
4,4'-[(6-[4-((1,1-dimethylethyl)aminocarbonyl)-phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazin-
e-2,4-diyl)diimino]-benzoate (Uvasorb.RTM. HEB); [0195]
2,2-(methylenebis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)ph-
enol) (Tinosorb M); [0196]
2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-tr-
iazine (Tinosorb S); [0197] propane-1,3-diones, for example
1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione;
[0198] ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decane derivatives, as described in EP
0694521 B1; [0199] dimethicodiethyl benzalmalonates (Parsol
SLX).
[0200] Useful water-soluble UV filters include: [0201]
2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the alkali metal,
alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and
glucammonium salts thereof; [0202]
2,2-((1,4-phenylene)bis(1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid,
monosodium salt) (Neo Heliopan AP); [0203] sulfonic acid
derivatives of benzophenones, preferably
2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
[0204] sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, for
example 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid and
2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulfonic acid and salts
thereof.
[0205] Useful typical UV A filters are especially derivatives of
benzoylmethane, for example
1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione,
4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol.RTM. 1789),
1-phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, and enamine
compounds, as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF), and also benzoic
acid, 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]hexyl ester (Uvinul.RTM.
A plus).
[0206] The UV A and UV B filters can of course also be used in
mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the
derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g.
4-tertbutyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol.RTM. 1789) and
2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene) in
combination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl
4-methoxycinnamate and/or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and/or isoamyl
4-methoxycinnamate. Combinations of this type are advantageously
combined with water-soluble filters, for example
2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the alkali metal,
alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and
glucammonium salts thereof.
[0207] Suitable UV light protection filters are especially the
substances approved according to Annex VII of the Commission
Directive (in the version Commission Directive 2005/9/EC of 28 Jan.
2005 amending Council Directive 76/768/EEC, concerning cosmetic
products, for the purposes of adapting Annexes VII thereof to
technical progress), to which reference is hereby explicitly
made.
[0208] In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble
light protection pigments, specifically finely dispersed metal
oxides and salts, are also useful for this purpose. Examples of
suitable metal oxides are especially zinc oxide and titanium
dioxide, and additionally oxides of iron, of zirconium, of silicon,
of manganese, of aluminum and of cerium, and mixtures thereof. The
salts used may be silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc
stearate. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments
for skincare and skin-protecting emulsions, and also for decorative
cosmetics. The particles should have a mean diameter of less than
100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and especially between 15
and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible
to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape
which deviates in some other way from the spherical configuration.
The pigments may also be present in surface-treated form, i.e.
hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples thereof are coated
titanium dioxides, for example T 805 titanium dioxide (Degussa) or
Eusolex.RTM. T, Eusolex.RTM. T-2000, Eusolex.RTM. T-Aqua,
Eusolex.RTM. AVO, Eusolex.RTM. T-ECO, Eusolex.RTM. T-OLEO and
Eusolex.RTM. T-S (Merck). Typical examples are zinc oxides, for
example Zinc Oxide neutral, Zinc Oxide NDM (Symrise) or Z-Cote.RTM.
(BASF) or SUNZnO-AS and SUNZnO-NAS (Sunjun Chemical Co. Ltd.).
Suitable hydrophobic coatings are in particular silicones and
specifically trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. In sunscreen
compositions, preference is given to using micropigments or
nanopigments. Preference is given to using micronized zinc oxide.
Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the
review by P. Finkel in SOFW Journal 122, 8/1996, pp. 543-548 and
Parf. Kosm. 80th volume, no. 3/1999, p. 10 to 16.
[0209] In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary
light protection substances, it is also possible to use secondary
light protection agents of the antioxidant type, which interrupt
the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV
radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples thereof are
amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and
derivatives thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and
derivatives thereof, peptides such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine,
L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (e.g. anserine), carotenoids,
carotenes (e.g. .alpha.-carotene, .beta.-carotene, lycopene) and
derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof,
lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid),
aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the
glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl,
palmitoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
thereof), and salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl
thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof
(esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and
salts), and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines,
homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-,
heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated doses (e.g. pmol
to mol/kg), also (metal) chelating agents (e.g. .alpha.-hydroxy
fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin),
.alpha.-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid),
humic acid, gallic acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin,
EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and
derivatives thereof (e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid,
oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and
ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.
ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate),
tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and
derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and coniferyl benzoate of
benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof,
.alpha.-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol,
carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole,
nordihydroguaiacic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid,
trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose
and derivatives thereof, superoxide dismutase, zinc and derivatives
thereof (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and derivatives thereof (e.g.
selenomethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (e.g. stilbene
oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters,
ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids),
suitable in accordance with the invention, of these specified
active ingredients.
[0210] The invention therefore provides cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a
hydrocarbon mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at
least 2 different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more
than 1, preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons
make up at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight,
based on the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one UV light
protection filter selected from the group consisting of
4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, benzophenone-3,
butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl
triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol,
diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone and
diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,
3-(4'-trimethylammonium)benzylidenebornan-2-one methylsulfate,
3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimethine)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]heptane--
1-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts,
3-(4'-sulfo)-benzylidenebornan-2-one and its salts, polymer of
N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl}benzyl]acrylamide,
2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3-(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(t-
rimethylsilyloxy)disiloxanyl)-propyl)phenol, dimethicodiethyl
benzalmalonate and mixtures thereof.
[0211] These UV light protection filters are commercially
available, for example, under the following trade names:
[0212] NeoHeliopan.RTM.MBC (INCI: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor;
manufacturer: Symrise); NeoHeliopan.RTM.BB (INCI: Benzophenone-3,
manufacturer: Symrise); Parsol.RTM.1789 (INCI: Butyl
Methoxydibenzoylmethane, manufacturer: Hoffmann-La Roche
(Givaudan)); Tinosorb.RTM.S (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol
Methoxyphenyl Triazine); Tinosorb.RTM.M (INCI: Methylene
Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol): manufacturer: Ciba
Specialty Chemicals Corporation; Uvasorb.RTM.HEB (INCI:
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, manufacturer: 3V Inc.),
Uvinul.RTM.T 150 (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone, manufacturer: BASF
AG); Uvinul.RTM. A plus (INCI: Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl
Benzoate: manufacturer: BASF AG); Mexoryl.RTM. SO:
3-(4'-trimethylammonium)benzylidenebornan-2-one methylsulfate,
INCI: Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate; Mexoryl.RTM.SX:
3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimethine)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]heptane--
1-methanesulfonic acid), CTFA: INCI Terephthalylidene Dicamphor
Sulfonic Acid; Mexoryl.RTM. SL:
3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidenebornan-2-one, INCI Benzylidene Camphor
Sulfonic Acid; Mexoryl.RTM.SW: polymer of N-{(2 and
4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl}-benzyl]acrylamide, INCI
Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor; Mexoryl.RTM.SL:
2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3-(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(t-
rimethylsilyloxy)disiloxanyl)propyl)phenol; INCI: DROMETRIZOLE
TRISILOXANE; Parsol.RTM. SLX: dimethicodiethyl benzalmalonate, INCI
Polysilicone-15.
[0213] The inventive formulations may comprise the UV light
protection filters in amounts of 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably
2.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5-15% by weight--based on the
total weight of the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation.
[0214] The invention provides cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a hydrocarbon
mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at least 2
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1,
preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons make up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one self-tanning
agent.
[0215] Self-tanning agents are understood to mean substances which
cause browning of the skin. Examples include alpha,beta-unsaturated
aldehydes, which react with the amino acids in the skin in the
manner of a Maillard reaction to give colored compounds. Useful
active ingredients for self-tanning agents also include natural or
synthetic ketols or aldols. Examples of suitable active ingredients
include dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, glycerolaldehyde, alloxan,
hydroxymethylglyoxal, gamma-dialdehyde, 6-aldo-D-fructose,
ninhydrin and meso-tartaraldehyde. Suitable self-tanning agents are
especially dihydroxyacetone and/or erythrulose.
[0216] Mixtures of the abovementioned active ingredients with one
another or with muconaldehyde and/or naphthoquinones, for example
5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (juglone) and
2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, have been found to be particularly
advantageous.
[0217] The inventive formulations comprise the self-tanning agents
typically in concentrations of 1 to 10% and especially of 2 to 5%
by weight--based on the total weight of the cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulation.
[0218] The invention relates to cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a hydrocarbon
mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at least 2
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1,
preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons make up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one self-tanning agent
and at least one UV light protection filter.
[0219] The inventive cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations
may be present, for example, as O/W or W/O care emulsions,
sunscreen formulations, antiperspirant/deodorant concepts,
formulations for decorative cosmetics, oily care formulations,
impregnation liquids for substrates, for example paper and nonwoven
products. Examples include wet wipes, tissues, diapers or hygiene
products.
[0220] The inventive hydrocarbon mixtures and the inventive
cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations are especially also
suitable for light, sprayable applications and/or as constituents
of care emulsions for tissues, papers, wipes, sponges (e.g.
polyurethane sponges), plasters in the baby hygiene sector,
babycare, skincare, sun protection, aftersun treatment, insect
repellency, cleansing, face cleansing and antiperspirant/deodorant
applications. They can be applied to tissues, papers, wipes,
nonwoven products, sponges, puffs, plasters and bandages which find
use in the cleansing, hygiene and/or care sectors (wet wipes for
baby hygiene and babycare, cleansing wipes, face cleansing wipes,
skincare wipes, care wipes with active ingredients to counteract
skin aging, wipes with sunscreen formulations and insect
repellents, and wipes for decorative cosmetics or for aftersun
treatment, toilet wet wipes, antiperspirant wipes, diapers,
tissues, wet wipes, hygiene products, self-tanning wipes, toilet
paper, refreshing wipes, aftershave wipes). They can also be used,
inter alia, in formulations for hair care, hair cleaning or hair
coloring. The use of the inventive hydrocarbon mixtures positively
influences the sensory performance on application.
[0221] The inventive hydrocarbon mixtures are suitable especially
as constituents of decorative cosmetics formulations, for example
lipsticks, eye makeup, for example eyeshadow, mascara, eye pencils,
kohl, nail varnish, etc., and makeup formulations.
[0222] The invention provides cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a hydrocarbon
mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at least 2
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1,
preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons make up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one pigment and/or
dye.
[0223] The term pigment encompasses particles of any kind which are
white or colored, organic or inorganic, are insoluble in the
formulations, and serve the purpose of coloring the
formulation.
[0224] In a preferred embodiment, inorganic pigments are used,
particular preference being given to metal oxides.
[0225] Examples of inorganic pigments include: titanium dioxide,
optionally surface-coated, zirconium or cerium oxides, and zinc,
iron (black, yellow or red) and chromium oxides, manganese violet,
ultramarine blue, chrome hydrates and iron(III) blue, metal powders
such as aluminum powder or copper powder.
[0226] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigment is
selected from the inorganic pigments, preferably from the metal
oxides. In a preferred embodiment, the pigment is selected from the
group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and
mixtures thereof.
[0227] The pigments may be present either individually or in
mixtures.
[0228] Preference is given in the context of the present invention
to pigment mixtures composed of white pigments (e.g. kaolin,
titanium dioxide or zinc oxide) and inorganic color pigments (e.g.
iron oxide pigments, chromium oxides), and the pigments may be
present in coated or uncoated form. Among the color pigments, iron
oxides are particularly preferred.
[0229] Advantageously in the context of the present invention, the
pigment(s) may also be selected from the group of the effect
pigments which impart to the cosmetic formulation, in addition to
the pure color, an additional property--for example angular
dependence of the color (flop), luster (not surface luster) or
texture. Such effect pigments are used in accordance with the
invention advantageously in addition to one or more white and/or
color pigments.
[0230] The most important group of the effect pigments is that of
the luster pigments, which, according to DIN 55944: 2003-11,
include the metal effect pigments and the pearlescent pigments.
Some specific effect pigments cannot be assigned to these two
groups, for example graphite platelets, iron oxide platelets and
micronized titanium dioxide, the latter not giving a luster effect,
but rather an angle-dependent light-scattering effect. The luster
pigments to DIN 55943: 2001-10 are predominantly effect pigment
platelets. Aligned in parallel, luster pigments exhibit a
characteristic luster. The visual effect of luster pigments is
based on the directed reflection on metallic particles (metal
effect pigments), on transparent particles with a high refractive
index (pearlescent pigments) or on the phenomenon of interference
(interference pigments) (DIN 55944: 2003-11).
[0231] Examples of commercial effect pigments preferred in
accordance with the invention are: Timiron and #174; from Merck,
Iriodin and #174; from Merck (pearlescent and color luster pigments
for decorative industrial applications), Xirallic and #174; from
Merck (intense-color crystal effect pigments).
[0232] In addition, the inventive formulations may advantageously
also comprise organic color pigments, i.e. organic dyes which are
virtually insoluble in the formulation. According to DIN 55944:
1990-04, organic pigments can be divided according to chemical
aspects into azo pigments and polycyclic pigments, and according to
color aspects into chromatic or black pigments. Organic white
pigments are of no practical significance.
[0233] In the context of the present invention, the pigments can
advantageously also be employed in the form of commercially
available oily or aqueous predispersions. The inventive
formulations comprise typically 0.1 to 40% by weight of
pigments--based on the total weight of the cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical formulation.
[0234] It is also advantageous in the context of the present
invention when the inventive formulation comprises one or more
dyes.
[0235] The dyes may be either of synthetic or natural origin. A
list of suitable dyes can be found in EP 1 371 359 A2, page 8 lines
25-57, page 9 and page 10, and also page 11 lines 1 to 54, to which
reference is hereby explicitly made.
[0236] The inventive formulations comprise typically 0.01 to 5% and
preferably 0.1 to 1.0% by weight of dyes--based on the total weight
of the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation. The inventive
formulations typically comprise a total amount of dyes and pigments
in the range from 0.01 to 30% by weight, especially 0.1 to 15% by
weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of
the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulation.
[0237] Suitable dyes and pigments are especially the dyes and
pigments approved according to Annex IV of the Commission Directive
(in the version: Commission Directive 2007/22/EC of 17 Apr. 2007
amending Council Directive 76/768/EEC, concerning cosmetic
products, for the purposes of adapting Annexes IV and VI thereto to
technical progress), to which reference is hereby explicitly
made.
[0238] The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations may be
formulations for bodycare, for example a body milk, creams,
lotions, sprayable emulsions, products for eliminating body odor,
etc. The hydrocarbon mixtures can also be used in
surfactant-containing formulations, for example foam baths and
shower baths, shampoos and care rinses. According to the end
application, the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations
comprise a series of further assistants and additives, for example
surfactants, further oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes,
consistency regulators, thickeners, superfatting agents,
stabilizers, polymers, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids,
biogenic active ingredients, antidandruff agents, film formers,
swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, tyrosinase
inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers,
preservatives, perfume oils, dyes, etc., which are listed below by
way of example.
[0239] The invention provides cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a hydrocarbon
mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at least 2
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1,
preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons make up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one emulsifier and/or a
surfactant and/or a wax component and/or a polymer and/or a further
oil body.
[0240] Emulsifier
[0241] In one embodiment of the invention, the inventive
formulations comprise at least one emulsifier.
[0242] The invention provides cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a hydrocarbon
mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at least 2
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1,
preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons make up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one emulsifier.
[0243] The inventive formulations comprise the emulsifier(s)
typically in an amount of 0 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 20%
by weight, preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight and especially 0.1 to
10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
[0244] Every emulsifier is assigned a so-called HLB value (a
dimensionless number between 0 and 20) which specifies whether
there is a preference for water or oil solubility. Numbers below 9
indicate preferentially oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers,
numbers above 11 water-soluble, hydrophilic emulsifiers.
[0245] The HLB value says something about the equilibrium of the
size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of an
emulsifier.
[0246] The HLB value of an emulsifier can also be calculated from
increments, and the HLB increments for the different hydrophilic
and hydrophobic groups from which a molecule is composed can
generally be found in tabular works (e.g. H. P. Fiedler, Lexikon
der Hilfsstoffe fur Pharmazie, Kosmetik and angrenzende
[0247] Gebiete [Lexicon of the Excipients for Pharmacy, Cosmetics
and Related Fields], Editio Cantor Verlag, Aulendorf, 4th Ed. 1996)
or manufacturer data. The solubility of the emulsifier in the two
phases effectively determines the emulsion type. When the
emulsifier has better solubility in water, an O/W emulsion is
obtained. When the emulsifier, in contrast, has better solubility
in the oil phase, a W/O emulsion arises under otherwise identical
production conditions. In one embodiment of the invention, the
inventive formulation comprises more than one emulsifier. Depending
on the other components, the person skilled in the art uses
customary emulsifier systems (for example emulsifier and
coemulsifier).
[0248] Nonionic Emulsifiers
[0249] The group of nonionic emulsifiers includes, for example:
[0250] (1) Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide
and/or 1 to 20 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols
having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids having 12 to 40
carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in
the alkyl group. [0251] (2) C.sub.12-C.sub.18 fatty acid mono- and
diesters of addition products of 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide onto
glycerol. [0252] (3) Sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and
unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene
oxide addition products thereof. [0253] (4) Alkyl mono- and
oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical
and ethoxylated analogs thereof. [0254] (5) Addition products of 7
to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated
castor oil. [0255] (6) Polyol and especially polyglyceryl esters,
for example polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates, polyglyceryl
polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl diisostearate or polyglyceryl
dimerate. Likewise suitable are mixtures of compounds of two or
more of these substance classes. [0256] (7) Addition products of 2
to 15 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated
castor oil. [0257] (8) Partial esters based on linear, branched,
unsaturated or saturated C.sub.6-C.sub.22-fatty acids, ricinoleic
acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and polyglycerol, pentaerythritol,
dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides
(e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and
polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose), or mixed esters, for example
glyceryl stearate citrate and glyceryl stearate lactate. [0258] (9)
Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers and corresponding
derivatives. [0259] (10) Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty
acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and/or mixed esters of fatty
acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methylglucose and polyols,
preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.
[0260] The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene
oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glyceryl
mono- and diesters and also sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty
acids and onto castor oil are known, commercially available
products. These are homolog mixtures whose mean degree of
alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene
oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition
reaction is carried out. Depending on the degree of ethoxylation,
they are W/O or O/W emulsifiers. C.sub.12/18 fatty acid mono- and
diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are
known as refatting agents for cosmetic formulations.
[0261] Mild emulsifiers which are particularly suitable in
accordance with the invention are polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates
and mixtures thereof, which are sold, for example, under the
"Dehymuls.RTM. PGPH" (W/O emulsifier) or "Eumulgin.RTM. VL 75"
(blend with Lauryl Glucosides in a weight ratio of 1:1, O/W
emulsifier) or Dehymuls.RTM. SBL (W/O emulsifier) brands by Cognis
Deutschland GmbH. In this connection, reference may be made
especially to European patent EP 766 661 B1. The polyol component
of these emulsifiers may derive from substances which have at least
two, preferably 3 to 12 and especially 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2
to 12 carbon atoms.
[0262] Particularly preferred emulsifiers are, for example, Cetyl
Dimethicone Copolyol (e.g. Abil EM-90), Polyglyceryl-2
Dipolyhydroxystearate (e.g. Dehymuls PGPH), Polyglyceryl-3
Diisostearate (e.g. Lameform TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (e.g.
Isolan GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate (e.g. Isolan GO 33),
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (e.g. Isolan PDI),
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (e.g. Tego Care 450),
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (e.g. Cera Bellina), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
(e.g. Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether
(e.g. Chimexane NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (e.g. Cremophor GS
32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (e.g. Admul WOL 1403),
Glyceryl Oleate (e.g. Monomuls 90-O 18), Alkyl Glucoside (e.g.
Plantacare 1200, Emulgade PL 68/50, Montanov 68, Tego Care CG 90,
Tego Glucosid L 55), Methyl Glucose Isostearate (e.g. Tego Care
IS), Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate (Tego Care PS), Sodium Cocoyl
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (e.g. Gluadin WK), Potassium Cetyl
Phosphate (e.g. Amphisol K, Crodafos CKP), Sodium Alkylsulfate
(e.g. Lanette E), Sucrose Ester (e.g. Crodesta F-10, F-20, F-50,
F-70, F-110, F-160, SL-40, Emulgade.RTM. Sucro), ethoxylated and/or
propoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, castor oils and
hydrogenated castor oils (e.g. Eumulgin B2, B2, B3, L, HRE 40, HRE
60, RO 40, Cremophor HRE 40, HRE 60, L, WO 7, Dehymuls HRE 7,
Arlacel 989), PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate (e.g. Arlacel P 135,
Dehymuls LE), sorbitan esters, sorbitan esters ethoxylated and/or
propoxylated, and mixtures thereof. A particularly effective
mixture consists of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Lauryl
Glucoside and glycerol (e.g. Eumulgin VL 75). Also suitable are
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
(Isolan.RTM. GPS), Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (e.g.
Isolan PDI), alkali metal acylglutamates (e.g. Eumulgin SG).
[0263] Suitable lipophilic W/O emulsifiers are in principle
emulsifiers with an HLB value of 1 to 8, which are summarized in
numerous tabular works and are known to the person skilled in the
art. Some of these emulsifiers are listed, for example, in
Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd edition,
1979, volume 8, page 913. For ethoxylated products, the HLB value
can also be calculated according to the following formula:
HLB=(100-L):5, where L is the weight fraction of the lipophilic
groups, i.e. of the fatty alkyl or fatty acyl groups in percent by
weight, in the ethylene oxide adducts.
[0264] Particularly advantageous from the group of W/O emulsifiers
are partial esters of polyols, especially of
C.sub.4-C.sub.6-polyols, for example partial esters of
pentaerythritol or sugar esters, e.g. sucrose distearate, sorbitan
monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan
diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate,
sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate,
sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate,
sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan
sesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate,
sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate,
sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan
monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate,
sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate,
sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate,
sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and
technical-grade mixtures thereof. Also suitable as emulsifiers are
addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol of ethylene
oxide onto the specified sorbitan esters.
[0265] Depending on the formulation, it may be advantageous to
additionally use at least one emulsifier from the group of nonionic
O/W emulsifiers (HLB value: 8-18) and/or solubilizers. These are,
for example, the ethylene oxide adducts already mentioned in the
introduction and having a correspondingly high degree of
ethoxylation, e.g. 10-20 ethylene oxide units for O/W emulsifiers
and 20-40 ethylene oxide units for solubilizers. According to the
invention, Ceteareth-12 and PEG-20 Stearate are particularly
advantageous as O/W emulsifiers. Preferentially suitable
solubilizers are Eumulgin.RTM. HRE (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated
Castor Oil), Eumulgin.RTM. HRE 60 (INCI: PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor
Oil), Eumulgin.RTM. L (INCI: PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether), and
Eumulgin.RTM. SML 20 (INCI: Polysorbate-20).
[0266] Nonionic emulsifiers from the group of alkyl oligoglycosides
are particularly skin-friendly and therefore preferentially
suitable as O/W emulsifiers. C.sub.8-C.sub.22-alkyl mono- and
oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the
prior art. Their preparation takes place especially by reacting
glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 22
carbon atoms. As regards the glycoside radical, either
monoglycosides, in which a cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically
bonded to the fatty alcohol, or oligomeric glycosides with a degree
of oligomerization up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The
degree of oligomerization here is a statistical average based on a
homolog distribution customary for such technical-grade products.
Products which are available under the name Plantacare.RTM.
comprise a glucosidically bonded C.sub.8-C.sub.16-alkyl group onto
an oligoglucoside radical whose average degree of oligomerization
is 1 to 2. The acylglucamides derived from glucamine are also
suitable as nonionic emulsifiers. According to the invention,
preference is given to a product which is sold under the name
Emulgade.RTM. PL 68/50 by Cognis Deutschland GmbH and is a 1:1
mixture of alkyl polyglucosides and fatty alcohols. According to
the invention, it is also advantageously possible to use a mixture
of Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, glycerol
and water, which is commercially available under the name
Eumulgin.RTM. VL 75.
[0267] Also suitable as emulsifiers are substances such as
lecithins and phospholipids. Examples of natural lecithins which
may be mentioned are the cephalins, which are also referred to as
phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of
1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. By contrast,
phospholipids are usually understood to mean mono- and preferably
diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates),
which are generally included in the fats. In addition, sphingosines
and sphingolipids are also suitable.
[0268] The emulsifiers present may, for example, be silicone
emulsifiers. These may be selected, for example, from the group of
alkylmethicone copolyols and/or alkyldimethicone copolyols,
especially from the group of compounds which are characterized by
the following chemical structure:
##STR00001##
in which X and Y are each independently selected from the group of
H (hydrogen) and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl
groups and alkoxy groups having 1-24 carbon atoms, p is 0-200, q is
1-40, and r is 1-100.
[0269] One example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly
advantageously within the context of the present invention is that
of dimethicone copolyols, which are sold by Evonik Goldschmidt
under the trade names AXIL.RTM. B 8842, ABIL.RTM. B 8843, ABIL.RTM.
B 8847, ABIL.RTM. B 8851, ABIL.RTM. B 8852, ABIL.RTM. B 8863,
ABIL.RTM. B 8873 and ABIL.RTM. B 88183.
[0270] A further example of interface-active substances to be used
particularly advantageously within the context of the present
invention is that of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (cetyl
dimethicone copolyol), which is sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under
the trade name ABIL.RTM. EM 90.
[0271] A further example of interface-active substances to be used
particularly advantageously within the context of the present
invention is that of cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is
sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name ABIL.RTM. EM 97 and
ABIL.RTM. WE 09.
[0272] In addition, the emulsifier lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone
(laurylmethicone copolyol) has been found to be very particularly
advantageous and is available under the trade name Dow Corning.RTM.
5200 Formulation Aid from Dow Corning Ltd.
[0273] A further advantageous silicone emulsifier is octyl
dimethicone ethoxy glucoside from Wacker.
[0274] For an inventive water-in-silicone oil emulsion, all known
emulsifiers used for this type of emulsion can be used.
Water-in-silicone emulsifiers which are particularly preferred in
accordance with the invention are cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone
and lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone [e.g. ABIL.RTM. EM 90 (Evonik
Goldschmidt), DC5200 Formulation Aid (Dow Corning)] and any desired
mixtures of the two emulsifiers.
[0275] Surfactants
[0276] In one embodiment of the invention, the inventive
formulations comprise at least one surfactant.
[0277] Surfactants are amphiphilic substances which can dissolve
organic, nonpolar substances in water. They cause, as a result of
their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic
and a hydrophobic molecular moiety, a lowering of the surface
tension of the water, the wetting of the skin, the facilitation of
soil removal and dissolution, easy rinseoff and--if desired--foam
regulation.
[0278] Surfactants are typically understood to mean surface-active
substances which have an HLB value of greater than 20.
[0279] The invention provides cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a hydrocarbon
mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at least 2
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1,
preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons make up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one surfactant.
[0280] The surface-active substances present may be anionic,
nonionic, cationic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
In surfactant-containing cosmetic formulations, for example shower
gels, foam baths, shampoos, etc., at least one anionic surfactant
is preferably present.
[0281] The inventive formulations comprise the surfactant(s)
typically in an amount of 0 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.05 to
30% by weight, especially 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to
15% by weight and especially 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the
total weight of the formulation.
[0282] Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol
polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid
polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine
polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and
mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk(en)yl
oligoglycosides and glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid
N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolyzates (especially wheat-based
vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters,
sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic
surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a
conventional homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow
homolog distribution.
[0283] Zwitterionic surfactants refer to those surface-active
compounds which bear at least one quaternary ammonium group and at
least one --COO.sup.(-) or --SO.sub.3.sup.(-) group in the
molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the
betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for
example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate,
N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example
cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and
2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having in each
case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also
cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred
zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known
under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
[0284] Likewise suitable, especially as cosurfactants, are
ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood to
mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a
C.sub.8-C.sub.18-alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at
least one free amino group and at least one --COOH or --SO.sub.3H
group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of
suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines,
N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids,
N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,
N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines,
N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic
acids having in each case about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl
group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are
N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and
C.sub.12-18-acylsarcosine.
[0285] Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates,
aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The
specified surfactants are exclusively known compounds. With regard
to the structure and preparation of these substances, reference may
be made to relevant review works in this field. Typical examples of
particularly suitable mild, i.e. particularly skin-friendly,
surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates,
monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty
acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides,
fatty acid glutamates, .alpha.-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic
acids, alkyl oligoglucosides and/or mixtures thereof with alkyl
oligoglucoside carboxylates, fatty acid glucamides,
alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and/or protein fatty acid
condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins or salts
thereof.
[0286] Anionic surfactants are characterized by a
water-solubilizing, anionic group, for example a carboxylate,
sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic radical.
Skin-compatible anionic surfactants are known to the person skilled
in the art in a large number from relevant handbooks and are
commercially available. These are especially alkyl sulfates in the
form of their alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salts,
alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether carboxylates, acyl isethionates,
acyl sarcosinates, acyltaurines with linear alkyl or acyl groups
having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and also sulfosuccinates and acyl
glutamates in the form of their alkali metal or ammonium salts.
[0287] Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps,
alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl
ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, .alpha.-methyl ester
sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether
sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates,
hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty
acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates,
mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide
soaps, ethercarboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid
isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides,
N-acylamino acids, for example acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates,
acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates,
protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable products based
on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants
comprise polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional
homolog distribution, but preferably have a narrow homolog
distribution.
[0288] Cationic surfactants which can be used are especially
quaternary ammonium compounds. Preference is given to ammonium
halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as
alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides
and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium
chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride,
distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium
chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and
tricetylmethylammonium chloride. In addition, the very readily
biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, for example the
dialkylammonium methosulfates and
methylhydroxyalkyldialkyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates sold under
the trade name Stepantex.RTM. and the corresponding products of the
Dehyquart.RTM. series can be used as cationic surfactants. The term
"ester quats" is generally understood to mean quaternized fatty
acid triethanolamine ester salts. They can impart an exceptional
soft feel to the formulations according to the invention. These are
known substances which are prepared by the relevant methods of
organic chemistry. Further cationic surfactants which can be used
in accordance with the invention are the quaternized protein
hydrolyzates.
[0289] Wax Component
[0290] In one embodiment of the invention, the inventive
formulations comprise at least one wax component.
[0291] The invention relates to cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a hydrocarbon
mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at least 2
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1,
preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons make up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one wax component.
[0292] The inventive formulations comprise the wax component(s)
typically in an amount of 0 to 40% by weight, especially of 0 to
20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight and especially 0.1
to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
[0293] The term "wax" is typically understood to mean all natural
or synthetic substances and substance mixtures having the following
properties: they are of solid to brittle and hard consistency,
coarse to finely crystalline, transparent to cloudy and melt above
30.degree. C. without decomposition. They are low in viscosity even
a little above the melting point and do not string, and exhibit a
strongly temperature-dependent consistency and solubility.
According to the invention, it is possible to use a wax component
or a mixture of wax components which melt at 30.degree. C. or
higher.
[0294] The waxes used in accordance with the invention may also be
fats and fat-like substances with waxy consistency, provided they
have the required melting point. These include, inter alia, fats
(triglycerides), mono- and diglycerides, natural and synthetic
waxes, fatty and wax alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty
alcohols and fatty acids and also fatty acid amides or any desired
mixtures of these substances.
[0295] Fats are understood to mean triacylglycerols, i.e. the
triple esters of fatty acids with glycerol. They preferably
comprise saturated, unbranched and unsubstituted fatty acid
radicals. They may also be mixed esters, i.e. triple esters of
glycerol with different fatty acids. According to the invention, it
is possible to use hydrogenated fats and oils, which are obtained
by partial hydrogenation and are particularly suitable as
consistency regulators. Vegetable hydrogenated fats and oils are
preferred, e.g. hydrogenated castor oil, peanut oil, soybean oil,
rapeseed oil, colza oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower
oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, corn oil,
olive oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and coconut fat.
[0296] Suitable examples include the triple esters of glycerol with
C12-C60-fatty acids and especially C12-C36-fatty acids. These
include hydrogenated castor oil, a triple ester of glycerol and a
hydroxystearic acid, which is commercially available, for example,
under the Cutina HR name. Glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl
tribehenate (e.g. Syncrowax HRC), glyceryl tripalmitate or the
triglyceride mixtures known under the Syncrowax HGLC name are
likewise suitable, with the proviso that the melting point of the
wax component or of the mixture is 30.degree. C. or higher.
[0297] According to the invention, usable wax components are
especially mono- and diglycerides and mixtures of these partial
glycerides. Glyceride mixtures which can be used in accordance with
the invention include the Novata AB and Novata B (mixture of
C12-C18-mono-, -di- and -triglycerides) and Cutina MD or Cutina GMS
(glyceryl stearate) products sold by Cognis Deutschland GmbH &
Co. KG.
[0298] Fatty alcohols which can be used in accordance with the
invention as the wax component include the C12-C50-fatty alcohols.
The fatty alcohols can be obtained from natural fats, oils and
waxes, for example myristyl alcohol, 1-pentadecanol, cetyl alcohol,
1-heptadecanol, stearyl alcohol, 1-nonadecanol, arachidyl alcohol,
1-heneicosanol, behenyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, lignoceryl
alcohol, ceryl alcohol or myricyl alcohol. Preference is given in
accordance with the invention to saturated unbranched fatty
alcohols. However, it is also possible in accordance with the
invention to use unsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols
as the wax component, provided they have the required melting
point. It is also possible in accordance with the invention to use
fatty alcohol cuts, as produced in the reduction of naturally
occurring fats and oils, for example bovine tallow, peanut oil,
colza oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, palm kernel
oil, linseed oil, castor oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil,
cocoa butter and coconut fat. However, it is also possible to use
synthetic alcohols, e.g. the linear, even-numbered fatty alcohols
from the Ziegler synthesis (alfols) or the partially branched
alcohols from the oxo process (dobanols). Particular preference is
given in accordance with the invention to C14-C22-fatty alcohols,
which are sold, for example, by Cognis Deutschland GmbH under the
Lanette 18 (C18-alcohol), Lanette 16 (C16-alcohol), Lanette 14
(C14-alcohol), Lanette O (C16/C18-alcohol) and Lanette 22
(C18/C22-alcohol) names. Fatty alcohols impart a drier skinfeel to
the formulations than triglycerides and are therefore preferred
over the latter.
[0299] The wax components used may also be C14-C40-fatty acids or
mixtures thereof. These include, for example, myristic acid,
pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid,
nonadecanoic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid,
cerotic acid, melissic acid, erucic acid and elaeostearic acid, and
also substituted fatty acids, for example 12-hydroxystearic acid,
and the amides or monoethanolamides of the fatty acids, this list
being illustrative and nonlimiting in character.
[0300] It is possible in accordance with the invention to use, for
example, natural vegetable waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba
wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ
wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, fruit
waxes such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, bayberry
wax, and animal waxes, for example beeswax, shellac wax,
spermaceti, wool wax and uropygial grease. In the context of the
invention, it may be advantageous to use hydrogenated or hardened
waxes. The natural waxes which can be used in accordance with the
invention also include mineral waxes, for example ceresin and
ozokerite or the petrochemical waxes, for example petrolatum,
paraffin waxes and microwaxes. Usable wax components also include
chemically modified waxes, especially the hard waxes, for example
montan ester waxes, sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes.
Synthetic waxes which can be used in accordance with the invention
include, for example, wax-like polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene
glycol waxes. Vegetable waxes are preferred in accordance with the
invention.
[0301] The wax component can likewise be selected from the group of
the wax esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or
unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated,
branched and/or unbranched alcohols, from the group of esters of
aromatic carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, tricarboxylic acids
and hydroxycarboxylic acids (e.g. 12-hydroxystearic acid) and
saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols,
and also from the group of lactides of long-chain hydroxycarboxylic
acids. Examples of such esters are the C16-C40-alkyl stearates,
C20-C40-alkyl stearates (e.g. Kesterwachs K82H), C20-C40-dialkyl
esters of dimeric acids, C18-C38-alkylhydroxystearoyl stearates or
C20-C40-alkyl erucates. It is also possible to use
C30-C50-alkylbeeswax, tristearyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate,
stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, trilauryl citrate, ethylene
glycol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol
di(12-hydroxystearate), stearyl stearate, palmityl stearate,
stearyl behenate, cetyl ester, cetearyl behenate and behenyl
behenate. Fatty acid partial glycerides, i.e. technical-grade mono-
and/or diesters of glycerol with fatty acids having 12 to 18 carbon
atoms, for example glycerol mono/dilaurate, -palmitate, -myristate
or -stearate, are also useful for this purpose.
[0302] Suitable waxes are additionally pearlescent waxes. Useful
pearlescent waxes, especially for use in surface-active
formulations, are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially
ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially
coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially
stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally
hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6
to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid;
fatty substances, for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty
aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of
at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearyl ethers;
fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic
acid, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22
carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms
and/or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl
groups, and mixtures thereof.
[0303] Polymers
[0304] In one embodiment of the invention, the inventive
formulations comprise at least one polymer.
[0305] The invention provides cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a hydrocarbon
mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at least 2
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1,
preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons make up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one polymer.
[0306] The inventive formulations comprise the polymer(s) typically
in an amount of 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight
and especially 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of
the formulation.
[0307] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic
cellulose derivatives, for example a quaternized
hydroxyethylcellulose, which is available under the Polymer JR
400.RTM. name from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of
diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized
vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole polymers, for example Luviquat.RTM.
(BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines,
quaternized collagen polypeptides, for example lauryldimonium
hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat.RTM.L/Grunau),
quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic
silicone polymers, for example amidomethicones, copolymers of
adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine
(Cartaretine.RTM./Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with
dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat.RTM. 550/Chemviron),
polyaminopolyamides, cationic chitin derivatives for example
quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystalline distribution,
condensation products of dihaloalkylene, for example dibromobutane
with bisdialkylamines, for example bisdimethylamino-1,3-propane,
cationic guar gum, for example Jaguar.RTM. CBS, Jaguar.RTM. C-17,
Jaguar.RTM. C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers,
for example Mirapol.RTM. A-15, Mirapol.RTM. AD-1, Mirapol.RTM. AZ-1
from Miranol.
[0308] Useful anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic
polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers,
vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl
maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether/maleic
anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked polyacrylic
acids and polyacrylic acids crosslinked with polyols,
acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers,
octylacrylamide/methyl methacrylate/tert-butylaminoethyl
methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers,
polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers,
vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam
terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and
silicones.
[0309] Likewise suitable polymers are polysaccharides, in
particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses
and also, for example, Aerosil grades (hydrophilic silicas),
carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose and
hydroxypropylcellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone and
bentonites, for example Bentone.RTM. Gel VS-5PC (Rheox).
[0310] Likewise suitable are quaternary polymers, for example with
the INCI name Polyquaternium-37, which conform to the following
general formula:
##STR00002##
[0311] Alternatively, it is also possible to use other
dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylates and their ammonium salts
obtainable by alkylation or protonation, or
dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylamides and their ammonium salts
obtainable by alkylation or protonation. Particular preference is
given to polymers comprising MAPTAC, APTAC, MADAME, ADAME, DMAEMA
and TMAEMAC. Moreover, it is also possible to use copolymers with
anionic, further cationic or uncharged monomers in accordance with
the invention, in particular those which, as well as the specified
alkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylate or alkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylamide
monomers, additionally comprise (meth)acrylic acid and/or
2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and/or acrylamide and/or
vinylpyrrolidone and/or alkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0312] By way of example, mention may be made of those polymers
with the INCI name Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-13,
Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-28,
Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-47.
[0313] Oil Bodies
[0314] In one embodiment of the invention, the inventive
formulations comprise at least one oil body. Typically, the
inventive formulations comprise the hydrocarbon mixture as the oil
body. In the embodiment specified here as preferred, the
formulations thus comprise an oil body other than the inventive
carbon mixture, also referred to as "further oil body".
[0315] The invention provides cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a hydrocarbon
mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at least 2
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1,
preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons make up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one (further) oil
body.
[0316] The oil bodies (inventive hydrocarbon mixture plus further
oil bodies) are typically present in a total amount of 0.1-90%,
especially 0.1-80%, especially 0.5 to 70%, preferably 1 to 60%,
especially 1 to 50%, especially 1 to 40%, preferably 5-25% and
especially 5-15% by weight. The further oil bodies are typically
present in an amount of 0.1 to 40% by weight, based on the total
weight of the formulation.
[0317] Suitable further oil bodies are, for example, Guerbet
alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to
10, carbon atoms, and also further additional esters such as
myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl
isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate,
cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl
isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl
myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl
isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate,
isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate,
isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate,
isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl
stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl
erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate,
behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl
erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate,
erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl
erucate. Additionally suitable are esters of
C.sub.18-C.sub.38-alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or
branched C.sub.6-C.sub.22-fatty alcohols, especially dioctyl
malate, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with
polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimerdiol or
trimertriol), triglycerides based on C.sub.6-C.sub.10-fatty acids,
liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on
C.sub.6-C.sub.18-fatty acids, esters of C.sub.6-C.sub.22-fatty
alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids,
especially benzoic acid, esters of C.sub.2-C.sub.12-dicarboxylic
acids with polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl
groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted
cyclohexanes, linear and branched C.sub.6-C.sub.22-fatty alcohol
carbonates, for example dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol.RTM. CC),
Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18,
preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid with
linear and/or branched C.sub.6-C.sub.22-alcohols (e.g. Finsolv.RTM.
TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers
having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprylyl
ether (Cetiol.RTM. OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty
acid esters with polyols and hydrocarbons or mixtures thereof.
[0318] Useful further oil bodies are, for example, silicone oils.
They may be present as cyclic and/or linear silicone oils. Silicone
oils are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in
which silicon atoms are joined via oxygen atoms in a chain-like
and/or grid-like manner and the remaining valences of silicon are
satisfied by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely
ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.). Systematically, the silicone
oils are referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted
polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this
group in terms of volume and are characterized by the following
structural formula
##STR00003##
are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI).
Dimethicones come in various chain lengths and with various
molecular weights.
[0319] Advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the context of the
present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane
[poly(dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under
the Abil 10 to 10 000 trade names from Evonik Goldschmidt. Also
advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl
Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone), cyclic silicones
(octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane),
which are also referred to in accordance with INCI as
Cyclomethicone, amino-modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and
silicone waxes, e.g. polysiloxanepolyalkylene copolymers (INCI:
Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and
dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy
Stearyl Dimethicone), which are available as various Abil wax
grades from Evonik Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils can
also be used advantageously in the context of the present
invention, for example cetyldimethicone,
hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane,
poly(methylphenylsiloxane). Silicones which are particularly
preferred in accordance with the invention are dimethicone and
cyclomethicone.
[0320] The inventive formulations may further comprise biogenic
active ingredients, insect repellents, tyrosinase inhibitors,
preservatives, perfume oils, superfatting agents, stabilizers
and/or hydrotropes.
[0321] The invention provides cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
formulations comprising 0.1 to 80% by weight of a hydrocarbon
mixture, wherein the hydrocarbon mixture comprises at least 2
different hydrocarbons whose carbon numbers differ by more than 1,
preferably by 2, and wherein these 2 different hydrocarbons make up
at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, based on
the sum of the hydrocarbons, and at least one biogenic active
ingredient, insect repellent, tyrosinase inhibitor, preservative,
perfume oil, stabilizer and/or hydrotrope.
[0322] Biogenic active ingredients are understood to mean, for
example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate,
ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and fragmentation products
thereof, .beta.-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin,
phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides,
pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, for example Aloe
Vera, prunus extract, bambara nut extract and vitamin
complexes.
[0323] Useful insect repellents include, for example,
N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl
3-(N-n-butyl-N-acetylamino)propionate), which is sold under the
Insect Repellent.RTM. 3535 name by Merck KGaA, and butylacetyl
aminopropionates.
[0324] Useful tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of
melanine and find use in depigmenting agents include, for example,
arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, cumaric acid and ascorbic acid
(vitamin C).
[0325] Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol,
formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, and
the silver complexes known under the Surfacine.RTM. name.
Additionally suitable as preservatives are the 1,2-alkanediols
having 5 to 8 carbon atoms, which are described in WO
07/048,757.
[0326] Suitable preservatives are especially the substances
approved according to Annex VI of the Commission Directive (in the
version: Commission Directive 2007/22/EC of 17 Apr. 2007 amending
Council Directive 76/768/EEC, concerning cosmetic products, for the
purposes of adapting Annexes IV and VI thereto to technical
progress), to which reference is made here explicitly.
[0327] Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic
odorants. Natural odorants are extracts from flowers, stems and
leaves, fruit, fruit shells, roots, wood, herbs and grasses,
needles and branches, resins and balsams. Additionally useful are
animal raw materials, for example civet and castoreum, and
synthetic odorant compounds of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone,
alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
[0328] The stabilizers used may be metal salts of fatty acids, for
example stearates or ricinoleates of magnesium, aluminum and/or
zinc.
[0329] To improve the flow behavior, it is also possible to use
hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols.
Polyols which are useful here possess preferably 2 to 15 carbon
atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain
further functional groups, especially amino groups, or be modified
with nitrogen.
EXAMPLES
Preparation Example 1
Preparation of an Inventive Hydrocarbon Mixture
[0330] To prepare an inventive hydrocarbon mixture, tridecane and
undecane were first prepared separately from one another from the
particular fatty alcohols, and then mixed in the desired ratio
relative to one another.
[0331] 1a) Preparation of tridecane from 1-tetradecanol
[0332] 1000 g of 1-tetradecanol (4.7 mol; Lorol.RTM. C 14 from
Cognis) were initially charged in a stirrable pressure vessel with
10 g of a nickel catalyst (Ni-5249 P from Engelhard; Ni content=63%
by weight) and heated to 240.degree. C. Subsequently, hydrogen was
added via a sparging tube at a pressure of 20 bar over a period of
12 h, and the reaction gases were simultaneously discharged through
a valve on the reactor lid. Thereafter, the product was cooled,
discharged and filtered. This gave a final weight of 845 g of
reaction product.
[0333] A GC analysis shows the following composition: 89.0%
tridecane, 2.1% tetradecane, 4.1% 1-tetradecanol, 4.2% dimeric
reaction products. This reaction product was fractionated in a
distillation to give pure tridecane, and then deodorized with
nitrogen. This gives a colorless, mobile and low-odor product.
[0334] 1b) Preparation of undecane from 1-dodecanol
[0335] 1000 g of 1-dodecanol (5.4 mol; Lorol.RTM. C 12 from Cognis)
were initially charged in a stirrable pressure vessel with 10 g of
a nickel catalyst (Ni-5249 P from Engelhard; Ni content=63% by
weight) and heated to 240.degree. C. Subsequently, hydrogen was
added via a sparging tube at a pressure of 20 bar over a period of
8 h, and the reaction gases were simultaneously discharged through
a valve on the reactor lid. Thereafter, the product was cooled and
discharged and filtered. This gave a final weight of 835 g of
reaction product.
[0336] A GC analysis shows the following composition: 68.4%
undecane, 0.6% dodecane, 21.7% 1-dodecanol, 7.2% dimeric reaction
products. This reaction product was distilled in order to obtain
undecane in pure form. This was then deodorized with nitrogen. This
gives a colorless, mobile and low-odor product.
[0337] The compounds obtained according to example 1a) and
according to example 1b) were used to prepare the following
inventive hydrocarbon mixture:
[0338] Composition of the hydrocarbon mixture according to example
1: 76% by weight of n-undecane, 24% by weight of n-tridecane.
Preparation Example 2
[0339] To prepare an inventive hydrocarbon mixture, a fatty alcohol
mixture which comprises C12 and C14 fatty alcohols correspondingly
to the hydrocarbon mixture to be prepared was subjected to a
reductive dehydroxymethylation.
[0340] 1000 g of Lorol.RTM. Spezial (from Cognis; fatty alcohol
distribution C 12 70-75%, C 14 24-30%, C16 less than 4%) and 10 g
of a nickel catalyst (Ni-5249 P from Engelhard; Ni content=63% by
weight) were initially charged in an autoclave. The reactor was
closed and evacuated. The reaction mixture was then heated to
approx. 80.degree. C. under reduced pressure and stirred for 30
min. Thereafter, the reactor was brought to approx. 80 bar with
hydrogen and heated continuously to 250.degree. C. The reaction is
complete when the pressure remains constant and the majority of the
fatty alcohol has been converted to the desired hydrocarbon. After
decompressing and venting with nitrogen, the product was purified
by distillation. The purified product is obtained as a colorless
liquid.
[0341] The hydrocarbon mixture obtainable according to preparation
example 2 has the following composition (GC analysis):
TABLE-US-00001 Proportion in the sum total Hydrocarbons with a
carbon of the hydrocarbons [% by number of weight] C11 (linear) 67
C12 4 C13 (linear) 26 C14 1.5 C9, C10, C15 1.5
[0342] The weight ratio of linear C11 hydrocarbon to linear C13
hydrocarbon is 2.57. The weight ratio of the C12 hydrocarbons to
the C14 hydrocarbons is likewise 2.57.
Preparation Example 3
[0343] To prepare an inventive hydrocarbon mixture, a fatty alcohol
mixture which comprises C12, C14, C16 and C18 fatty alcohols
correspondingly to the hydrocarbon mixture to be prepared is
subjected to a reductive dehydroxymethylation: 1000 g of Lorol.RTM.
Technisch (from Cognis; fatty alcohol mixture of C12, C14, C16 and
C18 fatty alcohols) and 10 g of a nickel catalyst (Ni-5249 P from
Engelhard; nickel content=63% by weight) are initially charged in
an autoclave. The reactor is closed and evacuated. The reaction
mixture is subsequently heated to approx. 80.degree. C. under
reduced pressure and stirred for 30 min. Thereafter, the reactor is
brought to approx. 80 bar with hydrogen and heated continuously to
250.degree. C. The reaction is complete when the pressure remains
constant and the majority of the fatty alcohol has been converted
to the desired hydrocarbon. After decompressing and venting with
nitrogen, the product is purified by distillation. The purified
product is obtained as a colorless liquid.
[0344] The hydrocarbon mixture obtainable according to preparation
example 3 has the following composition (GC analysis): C11
hydrocarbon 55%, C13 hydrocarbon 20%, C15 hydrocarbon 10%, C17
hydrocarbon 15%.
Preparation Examples 4 A to C
[0345] To prepare an inventive hydrocarbon mixture, a fatty alcohol
mixture which comprises C16 and C18 fatty alcohols correspondingly
to the hydrocarbon mixture to be prepared is subjected to a
reductive dehydroxymethylation: 1000 g of Stenol.RTM. 16 65 (from
Cognis; fatty alcohol mixture of C16 and C18 fatty alcohols) and 10
g of a nickel catalyst (Ni-5249 P from Engelhard; nickel
content=63% by weight) are initially charged in an autoclave. The
reactor is closed and evacuated. The reaction mixture is
subsequently heated to approx. 80.degree. C. under reduced pressure
and stirred for 30 min. Thereafter, the reactor is brought to
approx. 80 bar with hydrogen and heated continuously to 250.degree.
C. The reaction is complete when the pressure remains constant and
the majority of the fatty alcohol has been converted to the desired
hydrocarbon. After decompressing and venting with nitrogen, the
product is purified by distillation. The purified product is
obtained as a colorless liquid.
[0346] The hydrocarbon mixture obtainable according to preparation
example 4 A has the following composition (GC analysis): C15
hydrocarbon 65%, C17 hydrocarbon 35%.
[0347] Converted in an identical manner are 1000 g of Stenol.RTM.
16-18 (from Cognis; fatty alcohol mixture of C16 and C18 fatty
alcohols) (=preparation example 4B), as are 1000 g of Hydrenol.RTM.
D (from Cognis; fatty alcohol mixture of C16 and C18 fatty
alcohols) (=preparation example 4 C).
[0348] The hydrocarbon mixture obtainable according to preparation
example 4 B has the following composition (GC analysis): C15
hydrocarbon 50%, C17 hydrocarbon 50%. The hydrocarbon mixture
obtainable according to preparation example 4 C has the following
composition (GC analysis): C15 hydrocarbon 30%, C17 hydrocarbon
70%.
Preparation Examples 5 A to C
[0349] To prepare an inventive hydrocarbon mixture, a fatty alcohol
mixture which comprises C18, C20 and C22 fatty alcohols
correspondingly to the hydrocarbon mixture to be prepared is
subjected to a reductive dehydroxymethylation: 1000 g of
Stenol.RTM. 1822-45 (from Cognis; fatty alcohol mixture of C18, C20
and C22 fatty alcohols) and 10 g of a nickel catalyst (Ni-5249 P
from Engelhard; nickel content=63% by weight) are initially charged
in an autoclave. The reactor is closed and evacuated. The reaction
mixture is subsequently heated to approx. 80.degree. C. under
reduced pressure and stirred for 30 min. Thereafter, the reactor is
brought to approx. 80 bar with hydrogen and heated continuously to
250.degree. C. The reaction is complete when the pressure remains
constant and the majority of the fatty alcohol has been converted
to the desired hydrocarbon. After decompressing and venting with
nitrogen, the product is purified by distillation. The purified
product is obtained as a colorless liquid.
[0350] The hydrocarbon mixture obtainable according to preparation
example 5 A has the following composition (GC analysis): C17
hydrocarbon 45%, C19 hydrocarbon 10%, C21 hydrocarbon 45%.
[0351] Converted in an identical manner are 1000 g of Stenol.RTM.
AT (from Cognis; fatty alcohol mixture of C18, C20 and C22 fatty
alcohols) (=preparation example 5 B), as are 1000 g of Stenol.RTM.
1822-70 (from Cognis; fatty alcohol mixture of C18, C20 and C22
fatty alcohols) (=preparation example 5 C).
[0352] The hydrocarbon mixture obtainable according to preparation
example 5 B has the following composition (GC analysis): C17
hydrocarbon 40%, C19 hydrocarbon 12%, C21 hydrocarbon 48%. The
hydrocarbon mixture obtainable according to preparation example 5 C
has the following composition (GC analysis): C17 hydrocarbon 10%,
C19 hydrocarbon 15%, C21 hydrocarbon 75%.
Use Example 1
[0353] The mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane obtained according
to preparation example 2 was used for the following deodorant stick
formulation, and the hardness of the formulations thus obtained was
tested (all figures in percent by weight):
TABLE-US-00002 Ingredients Inventive Comparative INCI [trade name]
example example Stearyl alcohol [Lanette .RTM. 18] 14.7 14.7
Hydrogenated castor oil 3.7 3.7 [Cutina .RTM. HR] Cyclomethicone --
58.7 [Dow Corning .RTM. 245] n-Undecane/n-tridecane according 58.7
-- to preparation example 2 Aluminum zirconium 22.9 22.9
tetrachlorohydrex GLY [Rezal .RTM. 36 GP] Hardness 4.0 3.5
[0354] The hardness (indentation depth) was determined according to
the Deutsche Einheitsmethoden zur Untersuchung von Fetten,
Fettprodukten, Tensiden and verwandten Stoffen [German standard
methods for analyzing fats, fat products, surfactants and related
substances], Bestimmung der Harte von Wachsen [Determination of the
hardness of waxes], Nadel-Penetration [Needle penetration] M-III 9b
(98).
Use Example 2
[0355] The cream produced according to the formulation below was
tested by a panel of 5 sensorily skilled subjects and assessed as
sensorily "light".
[0356] All-purpose cream (W/O)
TABLE-US-00003 Component/ % by Phase trade name INCI wt. I.
DEHYMULS .RTM. E Dicocoyl pentaerythrityl 3.00 distearyl citrate
(and) sorbitan sesquioleate (and) cera alba (beeswax) (and)
aluminum stearate DEHYMULS .RTM. PGPH Polyglyceryl 2 dipoly- 2.00
hydroxystearate CETIOL .RTM. OE Dicaprylyl ether 5.00 CETIOL .RTM.
868 Ethylhexyl stearate 5.00 MYRITOL .RTM. 331 Cocoglycerides 1.00
Hydrocarbon mixture according to 6.00 preparation example 1 or
preparation example 2 II. Glycerol 86% 5.00 MgSO.sub.4 .times.
7H.sub.2O 1.00 Water, deionized 72.00 III. Preservative q.s.
[0357] Production: The components of phase I were melted at 80 to
85.degree. C. and stirred for homogeneity. The components of phase
II were heated to 80 to 85.degree. C. and added slowly with
stirring to phase I. The mixture was stirred at this temperature
for a further 5 minutes. Thereafter, the emulsion was cooled with
stirring and homogenized at 65 to 55.degree. C. As soon as the
emulsion appeared homogeneous, it was cooled further to 30.degree.
C. with stirring. Thereafter, components of phase III were added
and the mixture was stirred again.
Formulation Examples
Balsam for Moistening and for Protection of the Lips
TABLE-US-00004 [0358] % by Phase Component INCI wt. I. Cerilla
Candelilla (Euphorbia 7.53 Raffinee G* Cerifera) wax CUTINA .RTM.
LM Polyglyceryl-2 6.57 conc. dipolyhydroxystearate and
octyldodecanol and Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) wax and Euphorbia
Cerifera (Candelilla) wax and beeswax and cetearyl glucoside and
cetearyl alcohol Colophane Rosin 1.89 claire type Y Cerauba T1*
Carnauba (Copernica 1.86 Cerifera) wax Cerabeil Beeswax 5.31
blanche 1* Hydrocarbon mixture according to 15.57 preparation
example 1 or 2 EUTANOL .RTM. G Octyldodecanol 21.71 Crodamol ML
Myristyl lactate 1.13 (Croda) ELESTAB .RTM. 366 0.43 II. Castor oil
Castor oil 35.00 III. IRWINOL .RTM. LS African wild mango 3.00 9319
butter *obtainable from Lambert-Riviere (France)
[0359] Production: Phase I was melted at 85.degree. C., phase II
was added and the temperature was kept at 80.degree. C. Phase III
was added shortly before introduction into the mold (which was
moistened with 50 cts dimethicone and preheated to 40.degree. C.).
The material was introduced into the mold and cooled to 40.degree.
C. The molds were cooled to close to 0.degree. C. in a freezer.
[0360] Styling Wax
TABLE-US-00005 % by Phase Component INCI wt. I. CUTINA .RTM. MD
Glyceryl stearate 47.0 COMPERLAN .RTM. 100 Cocamide MEA 2.50 CUTINA
.RTM. HR powder Hydrogenated castor 2.50 oil PLANTACARE .RTM. 1200
Lauryl glucoside 5.00 UP LANETTE .RTM. O Cetearyl alcohol 7.00
CUTINA .RTM. CP Cetyl palmitate 7.00 EUMULGIN .RTM. O 20 Oleth-20
5.00 Hydrocarbon mixture according to 23.5 preparation example 1 or
2 Wacker Siliconoil Dimethicone 0.50 AK 350
[0361] The production was effected by heating all the components to
80.degree. C. and homogenizing.
[0362] Moisturizing Body Milk
TABLE-US-00006 % by Phase Component INCI wt. EMULGADE .RTM. CM
Cetearyl isononanoate 5.0 (and) ceteareth-20 (and) cetearyl alcohol
(and) glyceryl stearate (and) glycerol (and) ceteareth EUMULGIN
.RTM. VL 75 Lauryl glucoside (and) 2.0 polyglyceryl-2
dipolyhydroxystearate (and) glycerol CETIOL .RTM. OE Dicaprylyl
ether 4.0 CETIOL .RTM. J 600 Oleyl erucate 1.0 ISOPROPYLMYRISTATE
Isopropyl myristate 7.0 Hydrocarbon mixture according to 7.0
preparation example 1 or 2 II. Water, deionized ad 100 III.
Cosmedia SP Sodium polyacrylate 0.4 IV. HISPAGEL .RTM. 200 Glycerol
(and) 20.0 glyceryl polyacrylate V. Preservative, q.s. perfume pH
5.5
[0363] The production was effected by mixing phase I and water at
room temperature with stirring. Then phase III was added and the
mixture was stirred until said mixture was homogeneous and swollen.
Then phase IV was added, followed by phase V, then the pH was
adjusted.
[0364] O/W Soft Cream
TABLE-US-00007 % by Phase Component INCI wt. I. EMULGADE .RTM. SE-
Glyceryl stearate (and) 6.0 PF ceteareth-20 (and) ceteareth-12
(and) stearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20 (and) distearyl ether
LANETTE .RTM. O Cetearyl alcohol 1.0 CUTINA .RTM. MD Glyceryl
stearate 2.0 CETIOL .RTM. MM Myristyl myristate 2.0 Hydrocarbon
mixture according to 8.0 preparation example 1 or 2 Jojoba oil
Simmondsia Chinensis 2.0 (jojoba) seed oil COPHEROL .RTM.
Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 1250 Dimethicone 0.5 Cyclomethicone 3.0 II.
Water Aqua ad 100 Propylene glycol 3.0 III. HISPAGEL .RTM. 200
Glycerol (and) glyceryl 15.0 polyacrylate IV. Preservative q.s. pH
5.5-6.5
[0365] This cream was produced by heating phase I to 80.degree. C.,
likewise heating phase II to 80.degree. C., and adding it to phase
I with stirring. This mixture was cooled with stirring and
homogenized at approx. 55.degree. C. with a suitable dispersing
unit (e.g. Ultra Turrax). Then phase III was added with continuous
stirring, phase IV was added and the pH was adjusted.
[0366] W/O Cream
TABLE-US-00008 Component/ % by Phase trade name INCI wt. I.
MONOMULS .RTM. 90 O 18 Glyceryl oleate 2.00 LAMEFORM .RTM. TGI
Polyglyceryl 3 4.00 diisostearate CETIOL .RTM. A Hexyl laurate
12.00 Hydrocarbon mixture according to 12.00 preparation example 1
or 2 SIPOL .RTM. C 16/18 OR Cetearyl alcohol 1.00 Zinc stearate
Zinc stearate 2.00 Zinc oxide CI 77947 (or) zinc 15.00 oxide
Magnesium sulfate Magnesium sulfate 1.00 Glycerol Glycerin 3.00
Preservative q.s. Benzyl alcohol Benzyl alcohol 0.40 HYDAGEN .RTM.
B Bisabolol 0.50 Water Aqua 100.00
[0367] The first 7 components were melted at 85.degree. C.
Magnesium sulfate and glycerol were dissolved in water, and this
mixture was heated to 85.degree. C. This aqueous phase was added to
the oil phase and dispersed. With continuous stirring, the mixture
was cooled to 40.degree. C., and then benzyl alcohol and Hydagen B
were mixed and added to the emulsion. With further stirring, the
mixture was cooled down to 30.degree. C. and homogenized.
[0368] "Body Wash" Cleaning Emulsion
TABLE-US-00009 % by Phase Component INCI wt. I. Texapon Ammonium
lauryl sulfate 30.00 ALS-IS TEXAPON .RTM. NSO Sodium laureth
sulfate 18.00 Hydrocarbon mixture according to 18.00 preparation
example 1 or 2 Plantacare .RTM. Lauryl glucoside 8.00 1200 II.
Jaguar Hydroxypropyl guar 2.00 HP 105 Euxyl K400
Methyldibromoglutaronitrile 0.10 and phenoxyethanol Water Aqua
23.90 pH 5.6
* * * * *