U.S. patent application number 12/867193 was filed with the patent office on 2011-03-03 for use of natural active substances in cosmetic or therapeutic compositions.
This patent application is currently assigned to LESAFFRE ET COMPAGNIE. Invention is credited to Dominique Marie Noelle Borreill, Peter Justen, William Marques.
Application Number | 20110052514 12/867193 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 39944559 |
Filed Date | 2011-03-03 |
United States Patent
Application |
20110052514 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Justen; Peter ; et
al. |
March 3, 2011 |
USE OF NATURAL ACTIVE SUBSTANCES IN COSMETIC OR THERAPEUTIC
COMPOSITIONS
Abstract
The invention relates to cosmetic or therapeutic compositions
that contain hydrolysed yeast proteins as an active ingredient, to
the use of said cosmetic or therapeutic compositions, and to a
method for cosmetic treatment.
Inventors: |
Justen; Peter;
(Rueil-Malmaison, FR) ; Borreill; Dominique Marie
Noelle; (Chennevieres sur Marne, FR) ; Marques;
William; (Rueil-Malmaison, FR) |
Assignee: |
LESAFFRE ET COMPAGNIE
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
39944559 |
Appl. No.: |
12/867193 |
Filed: |
February 11, 2009 |
PCT Filed: |
February 11, 2009 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/IB09/00237 |
371 Date: |
August 11, 2010 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/59 ;
514/18.6; 514/18.8; 530/371 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61P 17/08 20180101;
A61K 8/9728 20170801; A61Q 19/08 20130101; A61Q 5/006 20130101;
A61P 17/00 20180101; A61K 38/01 20130101; A61Q 5/00 20130101; A61Q
5/12 20130101; A61Q 19/007 20130101; A61K 8/0212 20130101; A61P
17/06 20180101; A61P 17/16 20180101; A61Q 7/00 20130101; A61P 17/10
20180101; A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61K 8/64 20130101; A61Q 19/008
20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/59 ; 530/371;
514/18.6; 514/18.8 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/64 20060101
A61K008/64; C07K 14/39 20060101 C07K014/39; A61K 38/16 20060101
A61K038/16; A61P 17/00 20060101 A61P017/00; A61Q 19/00 20060101
A61Q019/00; A61Q 19/08 20060101 A61Q019/08; A61Q 17/04 20060101
A61Q017/04 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Feb 12, 2008 |
FR |
0800754 |
Claims
1. A cosmetic or therapeutic composition comprising hydrolysed
yeast proteins as active substance, wherein said hydrolysed yeast
proteins are obtained from the insoluble fraction of yeast.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrolysed yeast
proteins are obtained through enzymatic hydrolysis and/or acid
hydrolysis and/or alkaline hydrolysis.
3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrolysed yeast
proteins are obtained through enzymatic hydrolysis with at least a
peptidase.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrolysed yeast
proteins are obtained from yeast of a genus selected from the group
consisting of Saccharomyces, Kluyveromyces, Torula, Candida,
Hansenula, Pichia, and mixtures thereof.
5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrolysed yeast
proteins comprise at least 40% of yeast proteins with a molecular
weight ranging from 1 to 5 kDa.
6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrolysed yeast
proteins comprise at most 55% of hydrolysed yeast proteins with a
molecular weight lower than 1 kDa.
7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the AN/TN ratio of the
hydrolysed yeast proteins is lower than or equal to 35%.
8. The composition of claim 1, comprising from 0.001% to 20% of
hydrolysed yeast proteins.
9. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least one additive
selected from the group consisting of preservatives, chelating
agents, colouring agents, UV filters, pH regulators, texturising
agents, perfumes and antioxidants.
10. A method of preparation of a cosmetic or therapeutic
composition, comprising the following steps: hydrolysing proteins
of the insoluble fraction of yeast in order to obtain hydrolysed
yeast proteins, and mixing said hydrolysed yeast proteins with an
acceptable cosmetic or therapeutic vehicle.
11. (canceled)
12. A method of cosmetic treatment comprising a step of contacting
the composition of claim 1 with the skin and/or skin appendages
and/or mucous membranes.
13. The method of cosmetic treatment of claim 12 intended to
moisturise the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or skin appendages,
and/or improve the repair of the skin and/or mucous membranes
and/or skin appendages, and/or improve dermis firmness, and/or
fight against skin aging, and/or regulate sebum secretion, and/or
reduce dandruff.
14. Hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from the insoluble fraction
of yeast for use as a medicament.
15. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrolysed yeast
proteins are obtained from yeast of Saccharomyces.
16. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrolysed yeast
proteins are obtained from yeast of Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
17. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least one excipient
selected from the group consisting of hydrophilic compounds,
hydrophobic compounds and surfactants.
18. A method of cosmetic: treatment comprising a step of contacting
a composition obtainable through the process according to claim 10
with the skin and/or skin appendages and/or mucous membranes.
19. Hydrolysed yeast proteins according to claim 14, wherein the
medicament is for the treatment and/or prevention of pathological
dry skin, pathological healing problems and/or pathological
hyperseborrhoea and/or acne.
20. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrolysed yeast
proteins comprise at least 60% of yeast proteins with a molecular
weight ranging from 1 to 5 kDa.
21. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrolysed yeast
proteins comprise at most 35% of hydrolysed yeast proteins with a
molecular weight lower than 1 kDa.
22. The composition of claim 1, wherein the AN/TN ratio of the
hydrolysed yeast proteins is lower than or equal to 20%.
23. The composition of claim 1, comprising from 0.01% to 2% of
hydrolysed yeast proteins.
24. The composition of claim 3, wherein the peptidase is selected
from the group consisting of papain, trypsin, chymotrypsin,
subtilisin, pepsin, thermolysin, pronase, flavastacine,
enterokinase, factor Xa protease, furin, bromelain, proteinase K,
genenase I, thermitase, carboxypeptidase A, carboxypeptidase B,
collagenase, and mixtures thereof.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The purpose of this invention is the use of natural active
substances in cosmetic and in therapeutic compositions, these
substances being hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from the
insoluble yeast fraction.
TECHNICAL BACKGROUND
[0002] For several years, protein hydrolysates have given rise to
an interest in cosmetic and therapeutic applications.
[0003] Protein hydrolysates can have different origins: animal, in
particular fish, vegetable, or fungal, for example yeast.
[0004] The presence or absence of biological activity of a protein
hydrolysate depends, in particular, on the nature of the start
proteins.
[0005] Thus, the hydrolysis of fish proteins allowed obtaining
hydrolysed proteins with a particular spatial structure recognised
by certain receptors. Activities of hormonal and opioid type have
thus been emphasised (Legal and Stenberg, Biofutur, No. 179, 1998,
pages 61 to 63).
[0006] Certain documents of the prior art mention the use of yeast
protein hydrolysates in cosmetic compositions. These yeast protein
hydrolysates are obtained either through the hydrolysis of yeast
whole cells or through the hydrolysis of the yeast soluble fraction
(the cytoplasmic content).
[0007] Thus, application patent EP 0 695 801, describes the
cosmetic use of a peptide composition obtained through:
[0008] a stage of yeast thermal treatment followed by a treatment
with lytic enzymes of the yeast cell wall, in order to obtain a
blending,
[0009] a protein purification and separation stage of the aforesaid
blending, in order to obtain yeast proteins, and
[0010] an hydrolyse stage of the aforesaid proteins.
[0011] The lytic enzymes of the cell wall used in this document are
enzymes attacking glucans and destabilising the wall and membrane.
Thus, such a composition has hydrolysed proteins obtained from the
yeast soluble fraction.
[0012] Patent application EP 0 126 364, describes the cosmetic use
of a product with no histamine, non-pyrogenic, sterile, active
obtained through a process comprising the following stages:
[0013] yeast plasmolysis and homogenisation to a temperature lower
than 0.degree. C.,
[0014] treatment with a proteolytic enzyme for at least 70
hours,
[0015] treatment with a diamine oxidase in order to eliminate
substances having histamine,
[0016] fractional precipitation with a blending of alcohols in
order to eliminate residual proteins.
[0017] Thus, the final product has yeast-hydrolysed proteins
obtained from the hydrolysis of whole yeast proteins. The
implementation of such a production process shows many drawbacks,
in particular, the duration of the process, the multiplicity of
stages and the need of working under sterile conditions.
[0018] Application patent of EP 0 237 398, describes the cosmetic
use of polypeptides biologically active obtained through the
process comprising the following stages:
[0019] mechanical crushing of natural substances, for example
yeasts, in order to obtain an aqueous homogenate,
[0020] enzymatic hydrolysis with a hydrolysis agent consisting of
.alpha.-chymotrypsin and possibly trypsin, in order to obtain an
hydrolysate,
[0021] separation of a polypeptide fraction with a specific
molecular weight.
[0022] Thus, the polypeptide fraction derives from the protein
hydrolysis obtained from whole yeasts. In particular, the
polypeptide fraction has a molecular weight lower than 10,000 Da
and higher than 1,000 Da.
[0023] Consumers increasingly require natural products, whether in
the food, cosmetic or pharmaceutical field.
[0024] In the cosmetic and pharmaceutical field, there is a real
need to give new active natural substances that:
[0025] have improved cosmetic or therapeutic qualities, such as
moisturising, anti-aging effects and/or firmness; and/or
[0026] an excellent stability in time; and/or
[0027] the production of which is homogeneous and/or the production
process is easily implemented on industrial scale.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0028] The purpose of this invention is the supply of natural
active substances useful in the cosmetic or therapeutic field.
[0029] A purpose of the invention is also the supply of new
cosmetic or therapeutic compositions.
[0030] Another purpose of the invention relates to a method for
cosmetic treatment for skin and/or skin appendages and/or mucous
membranes or these substances for their therapeutic use.
[0031] This invention is based, in particular, on the discovery of
a new category of hydrolysed proteins with improved cosmetic and/or
therapeutic activities, and/or an excellent stability in time,
and/or the production of which is homogeneous and/or the production
process is easily implemented on industrial scale.
[0032] The purpose of this invention is a cosmetic or therapeutic
composition comprising yeast hydrolysed proteins as active
substance, characterised in that the said yeast hydrolysed proteins
are obtained from yeast insoluble fraction.
[0033] According to an embodiment, the yeast-hydrolysed proteins
are obtained through enzymatic hydrolysis and/or acid hydrolysis
and/or alkaline hydrolysis.
[0034] According to an embodiment, the yeast hydrolysed proteins
are obtained through enzymatic hydrolysis with at least one
peptidase, preferably chosen among papain, trypsin, chymotrypsin,
subtilisin, pepsin, thermolysin, pronase, flavastacine,
enterokinase, factor Xa protease, furin, bromelain, proteinase K,
genenase I, thermitase, carboxypeptidase A, carboxypeptidase B,
collagenase and/or their blending.
[0035] According to an embodiment, the yeast hydrolysed proteins
are obtained from yeasts of Saccharomyces, Kluyveromyces, Torula,
Candida, Hansenula, Pichia genus, and/or their blending, preferably
Saccharomyces, advantageously Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
[0036] According to an embodiment, the yeast-hydrolysed proteins
have at least 40%, preferably at least 45%, more preferably at
least 50%, even more preferably at least 55%, even more preferably
at least 60% of yeast proteins with a molecular weight ranging
between 1 and 5 kDa.
[0037] According to an embodiment, the yeast-hydrolysed proteins
have at most 55%, preferably at most 50%, more preferably at most
45%, even more preferably at most 40%, even more preferably at most
35% of hydrolysed yeast proteins with a molecular weight lower than
1 kDa.
[0038] According to an embodiment, the AN/TN ratio of the
hydrolysed yeast proteins is lower or equal to 35%, in particular
lower or equal to 30%, in particular lower or equal to 25%, in
particular lower or equal to 20%.
[0039] According to an embodiment, the composition has from 0.001%
to 20% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, more preferably from 0.001% to
15% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.001%
to 10% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from
0.01% to 3% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even still more
preferably from 0.01% to 2% of hydrolysed yeast proteins.
[0040] According to an embodiment, the composition comprises at
least one additive chosen among preservatives, chelating agents,
colouring agents, UV filter, pH regulator, texturising agents,
perfume or antioxidant, and/or at least one excipient chosen among
hydrophilic compounds, hydrophobic compounds or surface active
agents.
[0041] The purpose of this invention is also a preparation process
of a cosmetic or therapeutic composition, consisting of the
following stages:
[0042] protein hydrolysis of the yeast insoluble fraction in order
to obtain hydrolysed yeast proteins, and
[0043] blending of the said hydrolysed yeast proteins with an
acceptable cosmetic or therapeutic vehicle.
[0044] The purpose of this invention is the use of hydrolysed yeast
proteins obtained from the yeast insoluble fraction as active
substance in cosmetic and/or therapeutic compositions.
[0045] Another purpose of this invention relates to a method for
cosmetic treatment comprising a stage of contact with the skin
and/or skin appendages and/or mucous membranes of a composition
according to this invention or liable to be obtained through the
process according to this invention.
[0046] Another purpose of this invention relates also to the
hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from the yeast insoluble
fraction for their use as medicine, preferably for the treatment
and/or prevention of pathological dry skin, pathological healing
problems and/or pathological hyperseborrhoea, and/or acne.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0047] FIG. 1 represents, in percentage, the size distribution (in
kDa) within the hydrolysed yeast proteins according to the
invention (white histogram) and within hydrolysed yeast proteins
obtained from the hydrolysis of yeast whole cells (striped
histogram).
[0048] FIG. 2 represents the molecular weight profile of hydrolysed
yeast proteins according to the invention (black curve) and that of
hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from the hydrolysis of yeast
whole cells (grey curve). The coordinate axis indicates the
absorption read at 214 nm and the abscissa axis the retention time
in minutes.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS
[0049] The purpose of this invention is a cosmetic or therapeutic
composition comprising hydrolysed yeast proteins as active
substance.
[0050] In particular, the purpose of this invention is a cosmetic
or therapeutic composition comprising hydrolysed yeast proteins as
active substance characterised in that the said yeast hydrolysed
proteins are obtained from yeast insoluble fraction.
[0051] The hydrolysed yeast proteins are also called yeast peptones
or yeast peptides obtained through hydrolysis.
[0052] By cosmetic composition, it is here designated a composition
intended to cause a cosmetic effect.
[0053] According to a preferred embodiment of this invention, the
cosmetic effect is obtained through a local application of the
compositions according to this invention.
[0054] The term local indicates that the composition is active in
the place where it is applied, on the skin, skin appendages, and/or
mucous membranes. According to the invention, the composition may
simultaneously target the superficial layers of the epidermis
and/or the dermis.
[0055] By the term skin appendage, it is designated generally
everything that covers the skin, and in particular hair, nails,
hairs, eyelashes.
[0056] The term skin includes the scalp.
[0057] The term skin includes the dermis and the epidermis, as well
as the superficial layers of the epidermis.
[0058] By the term mucous membranes or the term humid epithelial
tissue it is designated the membranes that cover the open cavities
towards the external medium, and in particular the oral, nasal and
genital mucosae, as well as the vaginal mucosae.
[0059] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic effect is
obtained through administration by mouth.
[0060] By therapeutic composition it is designated a composition
intended to cause a therapeutic effect.
[0061] A preferred therapeutic composition, according to the
invention, is a dermatological composition.
[0062] In particular, the therapeutic effect is obtained through a
local application of therapeutic compositions according to this
invention.
[0063] Hence, the purpose of this invention is also a cosmetic or
therapeutic composition as defined above, intended for an
application on the skin and/or skin appendages and/or mucous
membranes.
[0064] Another preferred composition according to the invention, is
a composition suitable for administration by mouth.
[0065] By active substance or active principle or active matter, it
is designated here the substance responsible for the cosmetic
effect within a cosmetic composition or responsible for the
therapeutic effect within a therapeutic composition.
[0066] A cosmetic composition, according to the invention,
comprises at least a compound as active substance and an acceptable
cosmetic vehicle.
[0067] A therapeutic composition, according to the invention,
comprises at least a compound as active substance and an acceptable
therapeutic vehicle.
[0068] The hydrolysed yeast proteins, according to the invention,
are obtained from the yeast insoluble fraction.
[0069] By insoluble fraction it is designated the yeast hulls, that
is to say, the wall and plasmic membrane of the yeasts at a
time.
[0070] The insoluble fraction represents about 20 to 30% by mass
dry matters of the yeast cells.
[0071] By soluble fraction it is designated the content of the
yeast, other than the yeast hulls.
[0072] Yeast hulls have essentially carbohydrates (about 50%).
Proteinic matters represent about 10 to 20% of yeast hulls, in
particular, about 13 to 18% of yeast hulls (by mass of fry
matters).
[0073] The insoluble fraction can be obtained through a thermal
treatment of the yeast during 1 to 3 hours between 70.degree. C.
and 90.degree. C., followed by a separation of the soluble and
insoluble fraction, especially through centrifugation. Hence, the
soluble fraction is eliminated and the insoluble fraction is
recovered.
[0074] The hydrolysed yeast proteins, according to this invention,
are obtained through hydrolysis of the proteins obtained from the
yeast insoluble fraction.
[0075] The hydrolysed yeast proteins can be submitted to specific
complementary treatments (for example, separation of the proteins
through centrifugation, concentration, filtration, or activated
charcoal treatment).
[0076] Thus, unlike the traditional protein hydrolysates, obtained
after an autolysis or an enzymatic hydrolysis of the whole cell
content or of the soluble part only, the hydrolysed yeast proteins,
according to this invention, are obtained from a particular
cellular fraction. The proteins of the yeast insoluble fraction
have in fact a different nature than those present in the yeast
soluble fraction. The proteins of the yeast insoluble fraction
have, in particular, mannoproteins that have no cellular
fraction.
[0077] In addition, the proteins of the insoluble fraction are
essentially native proteins, not subjected to hydrolysis, whereas
most of the proteins of the soluble fraction have already been
subjected to partial or total hydrolysis. Thus, the result of the
hydrolysis carried out starting from the proteins obtained from
whole yeast is less verifiable due to the heterogeneity of the
status of the start proteins.
[0078] In addition, the process, according to this invention,
allows making the proteins of the insoluble fraction more
accessible to hydrolysis, among other things through a strong
concentration of the said proteins, with respect to a hydrolysis
carried out on whole yeast.
[0079] Thus, the hydrolysed yeast proteins, according to this
invention, are characterised in that a particular peptide nature, a
particular (and homogeneous) profile of peptide molecular
distribution, and/or a specific AN/TN ratio (with very low free
amino acids), namely, in particular, an AN/TN ratio of hydrolysed
yeast proteins lower or equal to 35%, in particular, lower or equal
to 30%, in particular, lower or equal to 25%, in particular, lower
or equal to 20%.
[0080] By ANrFN ratio it is designated the ratio of the amino acids
nitrogen quantity (in percentage) on the by mass nitrogen quantity
(in percentage). The AN/TN ratio indicates the protein degradation
rate, in particular the hydrolysis degree of the yeast
proteins.
[0081] Surprisingly, this new source of yeast proteins, once
hydrolysed, has cosmetic and therapeutic activities.
[0082] The hydrolysed yeast proteins present in a dry form,
especially as powder, or under solution, for example under aqueous
solution.
[0083] The purpose of this invention is a cosmetic or therapeutic
composition as defined above, characterised in that the yeast
hydrolysed proteins are obtained through enzymatic hydrolysis
and/or acid hydrolysis and/or alkaline hydrolysis.
[0084] The acid hydrolysis is a hydrolysis obtained in an acidic
medium, preferably in the heat, for example by using a strong acid
such as hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid, phosphoric acid, and/or
nitric acid.
[0085] In particular, the acid hydrolysis destroys the tryptophan
and turns the glutamine and aspargine amino acids into glutamate
and aspartate, respectively.
[0086] The alkaline hydrolysis is a hydrolysis obtained in an
alkaline medium, for example by using a strong base such as sodium
hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
[0087] In particular, the alkaline hydrolysis destroys serine,
threonine, and cysteine amino acids.
[0088] The enzymatic hydrolysis of the yeast proteins is carried
out through hydrolases.
[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, the yeast-hydrolysed
proteins, according to this invention, are obtained through
enzymatic hydrolysis.
[0090] The enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out by adding at least
one exogenous enzyme. Preferably, the yeast exogenous enzymes have
been deactivated beforehand, for example through a thermal
treatment.
[0091] In particular, according to this invention, the hydrolases
are hydrolases acting on peptide bonds. Such hydrolases called
peptidases or proteases or proteolytic enzymes have number EC 3.4
in the EC classification. Peptidases catalyse the hydrolytic
cleavage of the C--N bond.
[0092] In particular, according to this invention, the hydrolases
are chosen among esopeptidases, especially aminopeptidase,
dipeptidase, dipeptidyl-peptidase, tripeptidyl-peptidase,
peptidyl-dipeptitase, carboxypeptidase of serine type,
carboxypeptidase of cysteine type, metallocarboxypeptidase,
omega-peptidase, and endopeptidases (or proteinase), in particular
serine endopeptidase, cysteine endopeptidase, aspartic
endopeptidase, and metalloendopeptidase.
[0093] The enzymatic hydrolysis can be coupled to a disulfide
bridge hydrolysis, carried out through reducing agents, for example
the 2-mercaptoethanol or the dithiothreitol, the TCEP
(Tris(2-carboxyethyl)phosphine).
[0094] Particularly, the purpose of this invention is a cosmetic or
therapeutic composition as defined above, characterised in that the
yeast hydrolysed proteins are obtained through enzymatic hydrolysis
with at least one peptidase, preferably chosen among papain,
trypsin, chymotrypsin, subtilisin, pepsin, thermolysin, pronase,
flavastacine, enterokinase, factor Xa protease, furin, bromelain,
proteinase K, genenase I, thermitase, carboxypeptidase A,
carboxypeptidase B, collagenase, alcalase.RTM., neutrase.RTM.
and/or their blending.
[0095] The conditions of use of the enzymes (in particular, their
concentration, duration of hydrolysis, temperature) are easily
determined by a skilled person in the art.
[0096] As an example, the hydrolysis can be carried out by adding
proteases for at least 18 hours between 45.degree. C. and
55.degree. C.
[0097] Preferably, the solubilised part having yeast hydrolysed
proteins is then recovered through centrifugation, before being
possibly concentrated, and then dried.
[0098] A preferred enzyme, according to this invention, is chosen
among papain, trypsin, pepsin, alcalase.RTM., neutrase.RTM..
[0099] According to a particular embodiment, the enzymatic
hydrolysis is obtained with at least two different enzymes, in
particular with at least three different enzymes, in particular
with at least four different enzymes.
[0100] As an example, the hydrolysis can be carried out with a
blending of papain and alcalase.RTM..
[0101] In particular, this invention relates to a cosmetic or
therapeutic composition as defined above, characterised in that the
yeast hydrolysed proteins are obtained from yeasts of
Saccharomyces, Kluyveromyces, Torula, Candida, Hansenula, Pichia
genus, and/or their blending, preferably Saccharomyces,
advantageously Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
[0102] The yeast hydrolysed proteins obtained from yeasts of
Hansenula genus, are preferably Hansenula anomala yeasts.
[0103] The yeast hydrolysed proteins obtained from yeasts of Pichia
genus, are preferably Pichia pastoris yeasts.
[0104] The yeast hydrolysed proteins, according to this invention,
are preferably obtained from Saccharomyces, advantageously
Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
[0105] According to this invention, a preferred cosmetic and
therapeutic composition have, as active substance, hydrolysed yeast
proteins obtained from yeasts of the same genus, and preferably of
the same kind and same species of yeast.
[0106] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic and
therapeutic composition have, according to this invention, as
active substance, hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from yeasts of
the same genus, but with at least two different species, in
particular at least three different species.
[0107] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic and
therapeutic composition have, according to this invention, as
active substance, hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from yeasts of
at least two different genera, in particular at least three
different genera.
[0108] This invention relates particularly to a cosmetic or
therapeutic composition as defined above, characterised in that the
yeast hydrolysed proteins have at least 40%, preferably at least
45%, more preferably at least 50%, even more preferably at least
55%, even more preferably still at least 60% of yeast proteins with
a molecular weight ranging between 1 and 5 kDa.
[0109] This invention relates particularly to a cosmetic or
therapeutic composition as defined above, characterised in that the
yeast hydrolysed proteins have at most 55%, preferably at most 50%,
more preferably at most 45%, even more preferably at most 40%, even
more preferably still, at most 35% of hydrolysed yeast proteins
with a molecular weight lower than 1 kDa.
[0110] This invention relates particularly to a cosmetic or
therapeutic composition as defined above, characterised in that the
AN/TN ratio of the hydrolysed yeast proteins is lower or equal to
35%, in particular lower or equal to 30%, in particular lower or
equal to 25%, in particular lower or equal to 20%.
[0111] By AN/TN ratio it is designated the ratio of the amino acids
nitrogen quantity (in percentage) on the by mass nitrogen quantity
(in percentage). The AN/TN ratio indicates the protein degradation
rate, in particular the hydrolysis degree of the yeast
proteins.
[0112] According to this invention, a preferred composition have
yeast hydrolysed proteins of which at least 55% of said proteins
have a molecular weight ranging between 1 and 5 kDa, and/or at most
42% of said proteins have a molecular weight lower than 1 kDa,
and/or the AN/TN ratio is lower or equal to 35%.
[0113] According to this invention, another preferred composition
has yeast hydrolysed proteins of which at least 60% of said
proteins have a molecular weight ranging between 1 and 5 kDa,
and/or at most 37% of said proteins have a molecular weight lower
than 1 kDa, and/or the AN/TN ratio is lower or equal to 35%.
[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, this invention relates
to a cosmetic or therapeutic composition as defined above, in which
the hydrolysed yeast proteins are obtained from the product
Springer.RTM. Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone-A.
[0115] The product Springer.RTM. Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone-A have
hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from the insoluble fraction of
Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The hydrolysed yeast proteins of the
product Springer.RTM. Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone-A have most of the
hydrolysed proteins with a molecular weight higher or equal to 1
kDa and lower than 5 kDa (about 60%); the other hydrolysed proteins
have essentially a molecular weight lower than 1 kDa (about 32%)
(see example 1).
[0116] The hydrolysed yeast proteins of the product Springer.RTM.
Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone-A are characterised in that an AN/TN ratio
ranging between 15 and 28%.
[0117] According to this invention, the composition can have the
product Springer.RTM. Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone-A, or hydrolysed
yeast proteins obtained through supplementary extraction and/or
purification stages starting from the said product.
[0118] According to the invention, the composition can have
hydrolysed yeast proteins corresponding to a specific hydrolysed
protein fraction isolated from the Springer.RTM. Hydrolyzed Yeast
Peptone-A product.
[0119] According to the invention, a preferred cosmetic or
therapeutic composition has the product Springer.RTM. Hydrolyzed
Yeast Peptone-A.
[0120] This invention relates particularly to a cosmetic or
therapeutic composition as defined above, having from 0.001% to 20%
of hydrolysed yeast proteins, more preferably from 0.001% to 15% of
hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.001% to 10%
of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.01% to 3%
of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.01% to 2%
of hydrolysed yeast proteins.
[0121] The percentages are given in weight/weight.
[0122] This invention relates in particular to a cosmetic or
therapeutic composition as defined above, having from 0.01% to 20%
of hydrolysed yeast proteins, in particular from 0.01% to 15% of
hydrolysed yeast proteins, in particular from 0.01% to 10% of
hydrolysed yeast proteins.
[0123] Object of this invention is more particularly a cosmetic or
therapeutic composition as defined above, having from 0.01% to 3%
of hydrolysed yeast proteins, in particular from 0.01% to 2% of
hydrolysed yeast proteins, in particular from 0.01% to 1% of
hydrolysed yeast proteins.
[0124] According to the invention, an acceptable cosmetic or
therapeutic vehicle have preferably at least a compound as additive
and at least a compound as excipient, since such a compound can be
used in many ways.
[0125] This invention relates to a cosmetic or therapeutic
composition as defined above, characterised in that the fact that
it have at least one additive chosen among preservatives, chelating
agents, colouring agents, UV filter, pH regulator, texturising
agents, perfume or antioxidant, and at least one excipient chosen
among hydrophilic compounds, hydrophobic compounds or surface
active agents.
[0126] By additive, it is designated an agent that plays in the
cosmetic or therapeutic composition a role of preservative,
chelating agent, colouring agent, UV filter (allowing to protect
raw materials), pH regulator (acid or base), texturising agent,
perfume and/or antioxidant.
[0127] By raw materials to be protected, it is designated every
compound of the cosmetic or therapeutic composition liable to be
degraded by light.
[0128] By excipient, it is designated the hydrophilic compounds
that constitute an aqueous phase, the hydrophobic or lipophile
compounds that constitute a fatty phase or surface active
agents.
[0129] Surface active agents are amphiphilic molecules able to keep
together two mediums, normally non mixable, by lowering their
interfacial tensions.
[0130] Surface active agents are ionic (anionic, cationic or
amphoteric) or non-ionic.
[0131] According to this invention, the following list of compounds
that can be used in the cosmetic or therapeutic vehicle, is given
by way of example and must not be considered exhaustive.
[0132] According to this invention, the preservatives used in the
compositions are especially chosen among butylated hydroxytoluene
(BHT), butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), propyl gallate, octyl,
dodecyl, .alpha.-tocopherol, .alpha.-tocopherol acetate, ascorbic
acid, ascorbyl palmitate, rosemary extracts, gingko biloba
extracts, and orizanol.
[0133] According to this invention, the chelating agents used in
the compositions are especially chosen among citric acid,
cyclodextrin, EDTA disodium, pentasodium pentetate, phytic acid,
sodium citrate, sodium phytate, and EDTA or tetrasodium
pyrophosphate.
[0134] According to this invention, the colouring agents used in
the compositions are especially chosen among colouring agents with
CI denomination (Color Index).
[0135] According to this invention, the UV filters used in the
compositions are especially chosen among benzophenone-3
(oxybenzone), benzophenone-4 (sulisobenzone), drometrizole,
trisiloxane, benzyl salicytate, avobenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate
(octinoxate), ethylhexyl salicytate (octisalate) or titanium
dioxide.
[0136] According to this invention, the pH regulators (acid or
base) used in the compositions are especially chosen among
aminomethyl propanol, citric acid, fumaric acid, orthophosphoric
acid, sebacic acid (decanedioic acid), sodium acetate, sodium
bicarbonate, sodium citrate, sodium hydroxide, tartaric acid,
tetrasodium pyrophosphate or triethylamine (TEA).
[0137] By texturising agent, it is designated an agent able to
increase the viscosity of aqueous phases in which it is dispersed,
the increase being advantageously high.
[0138] According to the circumstances, a texturising agent can be a
thickening agent and/or a gelling agent.
[0139] By thickening agent, it is designated a substance that
allows to obtain a viscous solution without forming a 3D network,
in particular, as opposed to gelling agents.
[0140] Texturising agents are especially chosen among agar-agar or
gelose, alginates, carraghenates, guar gum, tara gum, carob gum,
gum adragant, karaya gum, xanthan gum, aloe gel, starch glycerol,
chitosan, silica, silicates,--in particular bentonite, hectorite,
montmorillonite, aluminium silicate, magnesium silicate--,
cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyethyl cellulose,
hydroxypropyl cellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose or
hypromellose, acrylic and vinyl polymers,--in particular carbomers,
cyanoacrylate polymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinyl
alcohols--, polyethylene glycols, and polyquaterniums.
[0141] According to the invention, the perfumes used in the
compositions are especially chosen among essential oils,
compositions with synthetic origin, solubilised perfumes.
[0142] According to the invention, the antioxidants used in the
compositions are especially chosen among ascorbyl palmitate, BHT,
Tocopherol (E Vitamin), and tocopheryl acetate.
[0143] Hydrophilic compounds of the aqueous phase are especially
chosen among water, alcohols, and polyols.
[0144] According to the invention, the alcohols that can be used in
the compositions are especially ethanol, propanol, isopropanol,
benzyl alcohol, and hexyl alcohol.
[0145] According to the invention, the polyols that can be used in
the compositions are especially glycerol, propylene glycol,
butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and sorbitol.
[0146] Hydrophobic compounds of the fatty phase are especially
chosen among hydrocarbons, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, esters,
glycerides, cerides, and phosphatides.
[0147] Hydrocarbons are especially chosen among carbon and hydrogen
chains, saturated and unsaturated, linear, ramified or cyclical, in
particular carbon chains from 22 to 35 carbon and in particular
among the following hydrocarbons: paraffins, paraffin oils,
vaseline, squalane, silicones, and perhydrosqualenes.
[0148] According to the invention, the silicones that can be used
in the compositions are especially volatile silicone oils,
non-volatile silicone oils, modified silicone oils, silicone waxes,
silicone gums, silicone emulsions, silicone microemulsions.
Silicones are especially chosen among polyloxane silicones,
polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones, phenyl trimethyl siloxanes
or phenyl methicones, cyclical polydimethylsiloxanes or
cyclomethicones, dimethicone copolyols, amodimethicones, and
dimethicone propyl PG-Betaine.
[0149] According to the invention, the fatty acids used in the
compositions are especially saturated fatty acids or unsaturated
fatty acids, in particular monounsaturated, diunsaturated,
triunsaturated fatty acids. Fatty acids are especially chosen among
stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, oleic
acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid.
[0150] Fatty alcohols are especially chosen among long chain
saturated fatty alcohols,--cetylic alcohol or hexadecanol, stearyl
alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol--short chain unsaturated fatty
alcohols,--oleic alcohol, octyldodecanol, and tetrahydrofurfuryl
alcohol.
[0151] Esters are especially chosen among liquid linear fatty
esters--in particular isopropyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, octyl
palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, butyl arachidonate, isopropyl
lanolate, isopropyl myristate, glyceryl monostearate--, polyol
esters--in particular, glycerol, ethylene, glycol, propylene
glycol, diethylene glycol--, and oxyethylene esters.
[0152] Glycerides are especially monoglycerides, diglycerides, and
triglycerides. Glycerides are especially chosen among vegetable
oils,--in particular, olive oil, arachis oil, almond oil, hazelnut
oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, soya oil, maize oil, nut oil, grape
seed oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, rose tree muscatel oil,
kiwi oil, avocado oil, cereal germ oil, macadamia oil, castor oil,
poppy oil, cottonseed oil, apricot stone oil, coconut oil, copra
oil, monoi oil, palm-kernel oil, carthame oil, crabwood oil, gourd
seed oil, shark oil, mink oil--, butters,--in particular cocoa
butter, shea butter, copra butter, babassu oil, palm oil, tamanu
oil--, modified vegetable oils, synthetic oils, fats, and
tallow.
[0153] According to the invention, the cerides used in the
compositions are chosen especially among sterides,
carotene-cerides, lipochrome, waxes, in particular sperm whale or
spermaceti, lanolin, lanolin derivatives,--lanolin wax, liquid
lanolin, hydrogenated lanolin, ethoxylated lanolin, lanolin
alcohols, acetylated lanolin alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin
alcohols, lanolin acids, isopropyl lanolate--, jojoba oil,
ozokerite, ceresin, carnauba wax, and bee wax.
[0154] According to the invention, surface active agents are
especially emulsifying agents, wetting agents, detergents and/or
foaming agents.
[0155] Cationic surface active agents are especially chosen among
quaternary ammonium salts, fatty primary amine salts, quaternary
ammonium starches, alkylpyridinium chlorides, alkyl ammonium
saccharinates, diethylenetriamine starches or cationic resins.
[0156] Non-ionic surface active agents are especially chosen among
glycerol esters, glycol esters, sorbitan esters, fatty alcohol
ethers, lipophilic sucroesters, polyglycerol esters, propylene
oxide ethylene oxide copolymers, saponins, ethoxylated fatty
alcohols, glucose ethers, glycol ester or polyethylene glycol,
glycol ester or polyglycerol, oxyethylenated sorbitan ester,
oxyethylenated alkylphenols, aminoxides, self-emulsifiable bases
(PEG esters), methyl glucoside derivatives, monoethanolamides,
monoethanolamides derivatives, diethanolamides or diethanolamide
derivatives.
[0157] Anionic surface active agents are especially chosen among
alkaline soaps, amine soaps, alkylsarcosinates,
alkylsulphoacetates, alkyltaurates, sodium or potassium alkyl
sulphate, sodium or potassium ether alkyl sulphate, paraffins,
olefin sulfonates, isethionates, sodium alkyl phosphates, sodium
alkyl ether phosphates.
[0158] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surface active agents are
especially chosen among alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines,
alkylamino mono- or di-propionates, imidazole derivatives such as
cocoamphodiacetate, and sodium lauroamphodiacetate.
[0159] According to the invention, the cosmetic and therapeutic
composition can have, in addition to hydrolysed yeast proteins as
defined above, other yeast components.
[0160] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic or
therapeutic composition, according to this invention, does not have
any other yeast components, except for hydrolysed yeast proteins
according to this invention.
[0161] This invention relates particularly to a cosmetic or
therapeutic composition, as defined above, in which the said active
substance has a moisturising effect, and/or a repairing effect,
and/or a firmness effect, and/or an anti-aging effect, and/or an
anti-seborrhoea effect, and/or an anti-acne effect, and/or an
anti-dandruff effect, and/or a hair reconstruction effect, and/or
an effect on hair brightness and/or smoothness and/or growth.
[0162] By the expression moisturising effect, it is designated a
decrease in the skin evaporation due to an occlusive phenomenon or
to a water fixation by an active substance, a humectant or
hygroscopic effect of the active substance and/or a property of
fixation for glycerides in the intercellular cement.
[0163] The moisturising effect of the composition, according to
this invention, appears in particular, at the epidermis level, with
an activation of the lipid synthesis, in particular phospholipids,
neutral lipids, and the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.
[0164] The moisturising effect of the composition, according to
this invention, can be emphasised in vitro by the study of the
lipid synthesis and hyaluronic acid by the keratinocytes, as
described in Example 3.
[0165] The moisturising effect of the composition, according to
this invention, results also in an anti-dandruff effect at the time
of an application of the said composition on the scalp.
[0166] The anti-dandruff effect can be emphasised by a decrease in
the quantity of dandruff in a subject treated with the composition
according to this invention, for example as described in Example
5.
[0167] By repairing effect or cicatrising effect, it is designated
an effect on the epidermis and/or dermis repair and/or
reconstruction. In particular, the repairing effect is useful for
repairing injuries and/or burns.
[0168] In particular, the repairing effect of the hydrolysed yeast
proteins is linked to the activation of the synthesis of hyaluronic
acid. The repairing effect can be emphasised by a dosage of the
liberation of hyaluronic acid and an analysis of its expression in
reconstructed human epidermises, as described in Example 3.
[0169] By the expression firmness effect, it is designated a smooth
and tonic effect of the skin results from its mechanical support,
in particular collagen fibres and elastin.
[0170] According to the invention, the composition allows in
particular to improve the contraction of collagen lattice, activate
the elastin synthesis and the maturation of collagen.
[0171] Collagen lattice corresponds to a bundle of collagen fibres
and fibrils.
[0172] According to the invention, the firmness effect of the
composition can be emphasised in vitro, as described in example
3.
[0173] By the expression anti-aging effect, it is designated, at a
time, a preventive effect to delay the appearance of the skin aging
signs and an immediate effect to decrease aging signs. According to
this invention, the composition has in particular an anti-aging
effect linked to age and can also have an effect against
photo-induced aging.
[0174] The visible signs of skin aging linked to age are, in
particular, skin dryness, the appearance of little wrinkles,
wrinkles, a decrease in skin thickness as well as a loss of skin
suppleness.
[0175] Skin aging linked to age, results also in a decrease in the
quantity of collagen, their solubility and synthesis, a decrease in
the quantity of elastin and microfibrils, a decrease in the
quantity of glycosaminoglycans and an inactivation of
fibroblasts.
[0176] According to the invention, the anti-aging effect of the
composition results, in particular, in an increase in the
proliferation of dermis fibroblasts and their activity in terms of
synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans.
[0177] The anti-aging effect linked to age, can be emphasised in
vitro by the increase in the synthesis of collagen and
glycosaminoglycans by the dermis fibroblasts, as described in
example 3.
[0178] In particular, the signs of photo-induced skin aging are the
appearance of deep wrinkles, a thick and rough skin.
[0179] In particular, the photo-induced skin aging results in a
decrease in the quantity and solubility of collagen, an increase in
the quantity of elastin and microfibrils, an increase in
glycosaminoglycans, an increase in inflammatory cells.
[0180] This invention relates also to a cosmetic or therapeutic
composition, as defined above, characterised in that the active
substance has a repairing effect.
[0181] By the expression anti-seborrhoea effect, it is designated
an effect of regulation of sebaceous secretion, regulation of sebum
adsorption and/or an astringent action allowing to close the skin
pores.
[0182] According to the invention, the composition allows to reduce
the sebum secretion.
[0183] In particular, according to the invention, the composition
allows to regulate sebum adsorption through lipid adsorption.
[0184] Thus, according to the invention, the composition is
particularly useful within the framework of a face hyperseborrhoea
and/or a scalp hyperseborrhoea resulting in the so-called greasy
hair.
[0185] According to the invention, the cosmetic composition has an
anti-seborrhoea effect useful for greasy skins and/or acneic
tendency.
[0186] By the expression anti-acne effect, it is designated a
beneficial effect on acne.
[0187] In particular, according to the invention, the beneficial
effect of the therapeutic composition on acne is linked to a
regulation of sebaceous secretion.
[0188] The anti-seborrhoea and anti-acne effects can be emphasised,
as described in example 4. For example, according to the invention,
the composition is applied on the skin or scalp of subjects showing
a hyperseborrhoea at the skin and scalp level, respectively. The
sebum secretion is then assessed by applying a sebum absorbing
patch on the part of the body treated. The patch is afterwards
analysed to quantify the sebaceous secretion. The secretion after
treatment is compared to the secretion in the same subject before
treatment.
[0189] By reconstructing effect, it is designated the obtaining of
a smooth effect of the hair. The outermost layer of a hair, called
cuticle, is made up of scales overlapping each other. A
reconstructing effect results in smooth relief of the cuticle,
whereas damaged hair have a rough relief.
[0190] In particular, according to the invention, the composition
has a toning effect on the hair.
[0191] The reconstructing effect of the hair can be emphasised by
the measure of the hair topography, as described in example 5.
[0192] By brightness effect, it is designated the capacity of the
hair to reflect the light and give the hair a shining effect.
[0193] By softness effect, it is designated the softness sensation
of the hair upon touch.
[0194] By effect on hair growth, it is designated an increase in
the growth kinetics of the hair.
[0195] The effect on hair growth can be emphasised by a measure
test of the growth kinetics of the hair, as described in example
5.
[0196] This invention relates particularly to a cosmetic or
therapeutic composition, as defined above, in the form of solution
(one phase), dispersion (in particular an emulsion, suspension,
foam or aerosol), gel, oil, stick, powder, wipe, mask or patch.
[0197] By emulsion, it is designated all types of emulsions and in
particular, macroemulsions, microemulsions, nanoemulsions, simple
emulsions, and multiple emulsions.
[0198] Emulsions are dispersions of a liquid into another liquid,
the two liquids being non-mixable. Emulsions have a lipophilic,
hydrophilic phase and an emulsifying agent.
[0199] In particular, emulsions include milks, lotions, creams,
etc.
[0200] Nanoemulsions are dispersions in which the size of the
particles dispersed has a diameter lower than 1,000 .mu.m, in
particular from 10 .mu.m to 100 .mu.m.
[0201] Nanoemulsions are dispersions in which the size of the
particles dispersed has a diameter lower than 1,000 .mu.m, in
particular from 10 .mu.m to 100 .mu.m.
[0202] Nanoemulsions and microemulsions constitute transparent
mediums.
[0203] In particular, according to the invention, the cosmetic or
therapeutic composition is suited for skin or hair
applications.
[0204] In particular, according to the invention, the composition
for hair application is in the form of shampoos, lotions, masks,
and sprays.
[0205] This invention relates to a cosmetic or therapeutic
composition as defined above, in the form of tablet, wafer, dragee,
capsule, granule, pill, powder, syrup, drinkable suspensions, and
drinkable emulsion.
[0206] According to the invention, the cosmetic or therapeutic
composition can have, as active substance, hydrolysed yeast
proteins and at least one additional active substance.
[0207] By way of example, the additional active substance(s) can
have a moisturising effect, and/or a firmness effect, and/or an
anti-aging effect, and/or an anti-seborrhoea effect, and/or a hair
reconstructing effect, and/or an effect on brightness, and/or
softness, and/or hair growth, and/or repairing, and/or slimming,
and/or cleaning, and/or anti-oxidant, and/or depigmenting, and/or
vascular protector, and/or anti-inflammatory, and/or antibacterial,
and/or antifungal.
[0208] According to the invention, in a preferred cosmetic
composition, at least one additional active substance has the same
cosmetic effect as the hydrolysed yeast proteins.
[0209] According to the invention, in a preferred therapeutic
composition, at least one additional active substance has the same
therapeutic effect as the hydrolysed yeast proteins.
[0210] Since hydrolysed yeast proteins and at least one additional
active substance have the same cosmetic or therapeutic effect, the
effect obtained is preferably a synergic effect.
[0211] Thus, according to the invention, the hydrolysed yeast
proteins constitute a new natural agent, particularly useful for
preparing cosmetic or therapeutic compositions.
[0212] This invention relates also to a preparation process of a
cosmetic or therapeutic composition, consisting of the following
stages:
[0213] protein hydrolysis of the yeast insoluble fraction in order
to obtain hydrolysed yeast proteins, and
[0214] blending of the said hydrolysed yeast proteins with an
acceptable cosmetic or therapeutic vehicle.
[0215] In particular, the acceptable cosmetic or therapeutic
vehicle is chosen among the above mentioned additives and/or
excipients.
[0216] This invention relates also to a preparation process, as
defined above, of a cosmetic or therapeutic composition, consisting
of the following stages:
[0217] protein hydrolysis of the yeast insoluble fraction in order
to obtain hydrolysed yeast proteins, and
[0218] blending of the said hydrolysed yeast proteins with at least
an additional active substance and an acceptable cosmetic or
therapeutic vehicle.
[0219] This invention relates also to the use of hydrolysed yeast
proteins obtained from the yeast insoluble fraction as active
substance in cosmetic and/or therapeutic compositions.
[0220] This invention relates particularly to the use as defined
above, characterised in that the said hydrolysed yeast proteins are
obtained from the yeast insoluble fraction.
[0221] This invention relates particularly to the use as defined
above, characterised in that the said hydrolysed yeast proteins are
obtained through enzymatic hydrolysis and/or acid hydrolysis and/or
alkaline hydrolysis.
[0222] This invention relates to the use as defined above,
characterised in that the said hydrolysed yeast proteins are
obtained through enzymatic hydrolysis with at least a peptidase,
preferably chosen among papain, trypsin, chymotrypsin, subtilisin,
pepsin, thermolysin, pronase, flavastacine, enterokinase, factor Xa
protease, furin, bromelain, proteinase K, genenase I, thermitase,
carboxypeptidase A, carboxypeptidase B, collagenase, alcalase.RTM.,
neutrase.RTM. and/or their blending.
[0223] In particular, this invention relates to the use as defined
above, characterised in that the said yeast hydrolysed proteins are
obtained from yeasts of Saccharomyces, Kluyveromyces, Torula,
Candida, Hansenula, Pichia genus, and/or their blending, preferably
Saccharomyces, advantageously Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
[0224] This invention relates also to the use as defined above,
characterised in that the said yeast hydrolysed proteins have at
least 40%, preferably at least 45%, more preferably at least 50%,
even more preferably at least 55%, even more preferably at least
60% of yeast proteins with a molecular weight ranging between 1 and
5 kDa.
[0225] This invention relates also to the use as defined above,
characterised in that the said yeast hydrolysed proteins have at
most 55%, preferably at most 50%, more preferably at most 45%, even
more preferably at most 40%, even more preferably at most 35% of
hydrolysed yeast proteins with a molecular weight lower than 1
kDa.
[0226] This invention relates also to the use as defined above,
characterised in that the AN/TN ratio of the said hydrolysed yeast
proteins is lower or equal to 35%, in particular lower or equal to
30%, in particular lower or equal to 25%, in particular lower or
equal to 20%.
[0227] This invention relates particularly to the use as defined
above, characterised in that the said hydrolysed yeast proteins are
present in the cosmetic or therapeutic composition at the rate of
0.001% to 20%, more preferably from 0.001% to 15% of hydrolysed
yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.001% to 10% of
hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% of
hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.01% to 2% of
hydrolysed yeast proteins.
[0228] This invention relates to the use as defined above,
characterised in that the said cosmetic or therapeutic composition
have at least one additive chosen among preservatives, chelating
agents, colouring agents, UV filter, pH regulator, texturising
agents, perfume or antioxidant, and at least one excipient chosen
among hydrophilic compounds, hydrophobic compounds or surface
active agents.
[0229] This invention relates to a method for cosmetic treatment
comprising a stage of contact with the skin and/or skin appendages
and/or mucous membranes of a cosmetic composition as defined above
or liable to be obtained through the preparation process as defined
above.
[0230] The term contact, layer will also be called application.
[0231] The treatment method can include one or more applications a
day, preferably from one to three applications a day.
[0232] The frequency of applications of the cosmetic composition
can be reduced during treatment.
[0233] The method for cosmetic treatment can consist in a short
treatment, from one to more weeks, or a long-term treatment on many
years. The method for treatment can also consist in a treatment in
the form of renewed cures every year or several times in a
year.
[0234] This invention relates particularly to a method for cosmetic
treatment as defined above, designated to moisturise skin and/or
mucous membranes and/or skin appendages, and/or improve the repair
of skin and/or mucous membranes and/or skin appendages, and/or
improve dermis firmness, and/or fight against skin aging, and/or
regulate sebum secretion, and/or reduce dandruff, and/or repair
hair, and/or improve hair growth.
[0235] The epidermis moisturising aims, at a time, at restoring the
quality of the skin barrier, namely an impermeability limiting
water evaporation, and favouring the presence of molecules trapping
water, namely glycosaminoglycans, in particular hyaluronic
acid.
[0236] According to the invention, the method for cosmetic
treatment is particularly useful in the treatment and/or prevention
of skin dryness and dandruff.
[0237] The repair of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or skin
appendages aims at helping the physiological healing, in particular
by activating the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.
[0238] Skin tightening aims at maintaining or reinforcing skin
firmness, in particular by activating the synthesis of elastin, the
synthesis and maturation of collagen and the contraction of
collagen lattice.
[0239] The fight against skin aging relates to the delay and/or
reduction of aging signs.
[0240] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention,
the treatment designated to fight against skin aging is associated
to an epidermis moisturising.
[0241] According to the invention, the method for cosmetic
treatment is particularly advocated for subjects from 20 years, in
particular from 30 years, in particular from 40 years, in
particular from 50 years.
[0242] In particular, the regulation of sebum secretion relates to
the reduction of sebum secretion.
[0243] According to the invention, the method for cosmetic
treatment is particularly useful for regulating the seborrhoea of
greasy skins, in particular for greasy skins said with problems or
with acneic tendency and/or for hair so-called greasy.
[0244] The hair repair consists in the reconstruction of the hair,
in particular by smoothing hair cuticle and/or restoring brightness
and/or softness to hair.
[0245] According to the invention, the method for cosmetic
treatment is particularly appropriate for subject with damaged
hair, in particular following to a sun exposure, sea, too frequent
washings, colourings, brushings, perms, etc.
[0246] The improvement of the hair growth aims at increasing hair
growth kinetics, also called hair growth.
[0247] According to the invention, the method for cosmetic
treatment is particularly appropriate for subject with slow hair
growth kinetics and/or in case of normal hair loss.
[0248] In particular, a hair loss said normal, corresponds to
androgenogenetic alopecia, endocrine alopecia, or alopecia linked
to age.
[0249] According to an advantageous embodiment, the method for
cosmetic treatment, according to the invention, is appropriate for
a face application, in particular on the eye contour, nose,
forehead, chin, body, in particular on the hands, feet, back, hair
and/or scalp.
[0250] This invention relates also to hydrolyse yeast proteins
obtained from the yeast insoluble fraction for their use as
medicine, preferably for the treatment and/or prevention of
pathological dry skin, pathological healing problems and/or
pathological hyperseborrhoea, and/or acne.
[0251] In particular, this invention relates to hydrolysed yeast
proteins as defined above or liable to be obtained through the
preparation process as defined above, for the treatment and/or
prevention of pathological dry skin, pathological healing problems
and/or pathological hyperseborrhoea, and/or acne, and/or
pathological hair loss. This invention aims at using them for
preparing a therapeutic composition as defined above.
[0252] According to the invention, the therapeutic composition is
particularly useful for the treatment of pathological skin dryness,
also called xerosis, in particular in case of ichthyosis, skin
dryness associated to eczema or psoriasis or pathological scalp
dryness, in particular associated to dandruff.
[0253] According to the invention, the therapeutic composition is
particularly useful for the treatment of pathological healing, such
as hypertrophic healing, keloid healing, and retractile
cicatrisation and/or healing delays, in particular delays linked to
a poor asepsis, a vascular and/or neurological origin.
[0254] According to the invention, the therapeutic composition is
also useful for the treatment of pathological hyperseborrhoea, in
particular associated to a hormonal deregulation, in particular in
teenager, pregnant woman, or menopause woman.
[0255] According to this invention, the therapeutic composition is
also useful for the treatment of pathological acne, in particular
juvenile acne associated to hyperseborrhoea.
[0256] According to the invention, the therapeutic composition is
also useful for the treatment of pathological hair loss, also
called pelade, resulting from an emotional shock, thyroid disorder,
and/or treatments having alopecia as side effect (for example
anti-cancer treatments)
[0257] In particular, the use as defined above is intended to a
local application of the said therapeutic composition on the skin
and/or skin appendages and/or mucous membranes.
[0258] The use as defined above can consist in one or more
applications a day, preferably from one to three applications a
day.
[0259] The frequency of applications of the therapeutic composition
can be reduced during treatment.
[0260] The therapeutic treatment can consist in an acute treatment,
from a few days to several weeks, or a chronic treatment on several
years. The treatment can also consist in a treatment in the form of
renewed cures every year or several times in a year.
[0261] This invention relates also to the use of a cosmetic
composition or a therapeutic composition as defined above, intended
to the treatment of the side effects or unpleasant manifestations
of other treatments.
[0262] In particular, said side effects or unpleasant
manifestations result in skin dryness, for example associated to
eczema.
Examples
[0263] The invention is illustrated below with the following non
limiting examples:
Example 1
Obtaining of Hydrolysed Yeast Proteins According to this Invention
Equipment and Methods
[0264] An aqueous suspension of yeast cells of Saccharomyces
cerevisiae, having a content of dry matter within 12 and 30% by
mass, is subjected to a thermal treatment from 1 to 3 hours within
70.degree. C. and 90.degree. C. (in order to deactivate the
endogenous cell enzymes). This thermal treatment induces a yeast
plasmolysis that allows separating thereafter the insoluble
fraction from the soluble fraction, being the soluble fraction
limited. The separation of the solubilised fraction from the
insoluble fraction is carried out through several successive stages
of centrifugation and washing with water (at least 2 successive
stages, preferably at least 3).
[0265] The insoluble fraction recovered, having a content of dry
matter within 12 and 25% by mass, is then hydrolysed by adding at
least one exogenous protease during at least 18 hours at a
temperature of 45.degree. C. to 65.degree. C. For example, the
protease is the papain used at a concentration of 0.01% to 0.5%
(weight/weight).
[0266] The solubilised hydrolysed fraction is separated from the
hydrolysed insoluble fraction through several successive stages of
centrifugation and washing with water (at least 2 successive
stages, preferably at least 3).
[0267] The solubilised hydrolysed fraction is concentrated through
at least one vacuum continuous or batch evaporation stage, in order
to obtain a concentrated fraction. The concentrated fraction is
possibly purified through filtration or clarification before being
dried through atomisation.
[0268] The solubilised hydrolysed and possibly concentrated and/or
purified and/or dried fraction so obtained, corresponds to the
hydrolysed yeast proteins according to this invention.
[0269] The molecular weight and the molecular weight profile of the
hydrolysed yeast proteins are determined through liquid gel
permeation chromatography with UV detection at 215 nm on a SEPHADEX
Pharmacia HR 10/30 gel filtration column. The calibration is
carried out through protein standards with known size that allows
calibrating the system and assessing the molecular weight of a
blending.
[0270] The AN/TN ratio is calculated by measuring total nitrogen
and amino nitrogen.
[0271] Total nitrogen (TN) is determined through the Kjeldahl
method, a method established starting from the official methods of
analysis for dietetic products (JO of 3 Nov. 1979).
[0272] The amino nitrogen (AN) is determined through NQS
derivatisation (1-2 naphtoquinone 4-sulfonate (H. NEHRING, A. HOCK,
improved method for determination aminonitrogen, Pharmazie, 1971,
26, 616-619).
Results
[0273] According to this invention, the hydrolysed yeast proteins
obtained from the concentrated solubilised hydrolysed fraction,
purified and dried, are afterwards marked by letter A. They have a
light beige colour.
[0274] Table 1 and FIG. 1 indicate the distribution of the
molecular weights within hydrolysed yeast proteins according to
this invention (A), compared to that of hydrolysed yeast proteins
(B) obtained from hydrolysis of the yeast whole cell.
[0275] B hydrolysed yeast proteins are obtained through thermal
treatment of a suspension of Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast cells
from 1 to 3 h within 70.degree. C. and 90.degree. C., then with the
addition of at least one exogenous protease during at least 18
hours at a temperature of 45.degree. C. to 65.degree. C. For
example, the protease is the papain used at a concentration of
0.01% to 0.5% (weight/weight). The solubilised hydrolysed fraction
is separated from the hydrolysed insoluble fraction through several
successive stages of centrifugation and washing with water (at
least 2 successive stages, preferably at least 3). The solubilised
hydrolysed fraction is concentrated through at least one vacuum
continuous or batch evaporation stage, in order to obtain a
concentrated fraction. The concentrated fraction is possibly
purified through filtration or clarification before being dried
through atomisation in order to obtain hydrolysed yeast proteins of
whole yeasts (B).
[0276] According to the invention, most of the hydrolysed proteins
have in the hydrolysed yeast proteins (A), a molecular weight
higher or equal to 1 kDa and lower than 5 kDa (64.2%); the other
hydrolysed proteins have essentially a molecular weight lower than
1 kDa (31.6%).
[0277] Being a matter of yeast proteins obtained from whole cells
(B), the distribution of molecular weights is completely different:
most of the hydrolysed proteins have a molecular weight lower than
1 kDa (67.3%), the other hydrolysed proteins having essentially a
molecular weight higher or equal to 1 kDa.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Distribution (in Molecular percentage)
weight (in kDa) A B .gtoreq.10 0.3 1.1 .gtoreq.5 and <10 3.9 2.0
.gtoreq.1 to <5 64.2 29.6 <1 31.6 67.3
[0278] According to the invention, the difference between the
molecular weight profile of hydrolysed yeast proteins and that of
yeast proteins obtained from the hydrolysis of whole cells is also
clearly visible in FIG. 2.
[0279] In FIG. 2, the products that are represented first, have the
higher molecular weight. The hydrolysed yeast proteins appear more
concentrated on a range of high molecular weights with a more
important intensity. The hydrolysed proteins of B composition show
a peak concentration towards weaker molecular weights, which is
representative of a greater degradation.
[0280] With reference to AN/TN ratio, table 2 indicates that
hydrolysed yeast proteins according to this invention (A), have an
AN/TN ratio ranging between 15 and 28%, whereas that of the
hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from whole cells (B), ranges
between 32 and 40%.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 A B AN/TN 15-28 32-40 (in percentage)
[0281] The AN/TN ratio gives an estimation of protein degradation:
the weaker it is, the more the proteins are in the native form and
inversely, the higher it is, the more the proteins are in the
degraded form.
[0282] Table 3 shows that hydrolysed yeast proteins according to
the invention (A), in effect, have very few free amino acids,
compared to hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from whole cells
(B).
[0283] Hence, the hydrolysed yeast proteins according to this
invention (A), show a lower degradation rate than the hydrolysed
yeast proteins of B composition.
[0284] Furthermore, table 3 also shows that the composition in
amino acids of hydrolysed yeast proteins according to this
invention (A), is different from that of hydrolysed yeast proteins
obtained from whole cells (B).
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 A (% g/g) B (% g/g) free amino free amino
acids total amino acids acids total amino acids ASP Nd 7.59 0.7 6
SER Nd 3.62 1.4 2.8 GLU 0.47 10.51 5.5 13.2 GLY Nd 3 0.6 3 HIS Nd
1.61 0.5 1.3 ARG Nd 2.38 1.2 3.4 THR Nd 4.26 1.1 3.2 ALA Nd 4.75
2.9 5.1 PRO Nd 2.93 0.5 3.8 CYS Nd 0.2 0.1 0.3 TYR Nd 1.89 0.3 1.5
VAL Nd 4 1.3 3.6 MET Nd 0.56 0.4 0.8 LYS Nd 6.23 1.5 5 ILE Nd 3.42
1 3 LEU Nd 5.52 2.1 4.6 PHE Nd 2.94 1.1 2.5 Total 0.47 65.41 22
63.1 (Nd: Not determined (values are too weak)
Example 2
Effect of the Hydrolysed Yeast Proteins According to the Invention
on the Expression Profile of Keratinocytes and Fibroblasts
Equipment and Methods
[0285] The effect of the hydrolysed yeast proteins according to the
invention on the expression profile of normal human epidermal
keratinocytes and normal human dermal fibroblasts is valued on DNA
microarrays.
[0286] The first microarray has 164 genes of human keratinocytes,
especially involved in cell growth, differentiation, adhesion,
communication, and death.
[0287] The second microarray has 143 genes of human fibroblasts,
especially involved in cell growth, adhesion, communication,
synthesis and extracellular matrix degradation and stress.
[0288] Normal human epidermal keratinocytes and normal human dermal
fibroblasts are cultured for 24 h or 96 h in the presence or
absence of hydrolysed yeast proteins of example 1. Cells are then
washed and their RNA is extracted and purified. cDNA is obtained
from this RNA through reverse transcription. The cDNAs obtained are
then marked before being hybridised on the microarray corresponding
to the same cell type.
[0289] The expression level of each gene in the absence of
hydrolysed yeast proteins is compared to the expression level
obtained in the presence of the said hydrolysed yeast proteins.
Results
[0290] Among the genes activated on the microarray of dermal
fibroblasts, there are genes involved in the cell proliferation and
synthesis of the extracellular matrix.
[0291] The results obtained on the microarray of epidermal
keratinocytes show that the hydrolysed yeast proteins, according to
this invention, stimulate the differentiation of epidermal
keratinocytes and inhibit the expression of genes coding for
proteins of cellular matrix, which implies a moisturising effect.
The phenomenon of keratinocyte differentiation is indeed implied in
the reinforcement of the skin barrier and allows to limit water
losses. The inhibition of gene expression coding for proteins of
cellular matrix goes in the same direction.
Example 3
Moisturising, Anti-Aging and Firmness Properties of Hydrolysed
Yeast Proteins According to the Invention
Equipment and Methods
[0292] The hydrolysed yeast proteins used, are those described in
example 1.
(i) Moisturising Effect
[0293] Tests are carried out on normal human epidermal
keratinocytes NHEK seeded in the wells of a 96-well plate in a KSFM
medium (without serum). The lipid synthesis, the FLG (filaggrin),
CK10 (cytokeratin) and TGK (transglutaminase K) synthesis and the
hyaluronic acid synthesis, are assessed in the presence of
different concentrations of hydrolysed yeast proteins (from 0.04
mg/ml to 1 mg/ml). Three culture wells are made under
condition.
[0294] Calcium is used as positive control for lipid synthesis and
FLG, CK10, TGK synthesis and retinoic acid as positive control for
hyaluronic acid synthesis.
[0295] Negative control is constituted by the sole culture
medium.
[0296] Lipid synthesis is analysed through Phosphoimaging and the
hyaluronic acid synthesis is assessed through a measurement of the
hyaluronic acid concentration freed in the medium.
[0297] FLG, CK10 synthesis is assessed through cell immunomarking
after 72 hours of culture, and the TGK synthesis through cell
immunomarking after 48 hours.
(ii) Anti-Aging Effect
[0298] Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and normal human
dermal aged fibroblasts (AgNHDF) are seeded in the wells of a
96-well plate in a DMEM medium+10% SVF. Tests are carried out in
DMEM medium+1% SVF.
[0299] The test for fibroblast proliferation and the test for
glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis are carried out in the
presence of different concentrations of hydrolysed yeast proteins.
Three culture wells are made under condition.
[0300] Negative control is constituted by the sole culture
medium.
[0301] The proliferation test is carried out 24 h after
cell-seeding. [.sup.3H]-thymidine is added in the culture milieu.
The EGF is used as positive control.
[0302] Glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis is assessed on 80%
confluence cells, to which [.sup.3H]-glucosamine or
[.sup.3H]-proline is added, respectively. The retinoic acid is then
used as positive control.
[0303] After 24 hours of incubation, the macromolecules are
extracted and the incorporation of radioactive precursors is
measured.
(iii) Firmness Effect
[0304] Tests are carried out on normal human dermal aged
fibroblasts (AgNHDF).
[0305] The synthesis and maturation of collagen are assessed after
pre-culture of flask cells for 8 days in the presence of different
concentrations of hydrolysed yeast proteins. The negative control
is constituted by the sole culture medium and the positive control
by TGF.beta. and C vitamin. The cells are then seeded in culture
chamber. Just before confluence, cells are fixed in methanol and
the presence of collagen is detected through immunohistochemistry
by using a specific antibody directed against collagen I and a
secondary fluorescent antibody. The expression level of the
intracellular and extracellular collagen and their localisation
around the matrix are analysed through the microscope.
[0306] The contraction of collagen lattice is assessed after
culture of flask cells for 8 days in the presence of different
concentrations of hydrolysed yeast proteins. The negative control
is constituted by the sole culture medium and the positive control
by TGF.beta.. The cellular suspension obtained is then introduced
in a collagen I solution under controlled pH. After a few hours,
the solution jellifies in such a manner as to obtain an equivalent
dermis, the contour of which, is clearly defined. The diameter and
number of the cells of each equivalent dermis are measured by
following a defined kinetics.
[0307] The elastin synthesis is assessed after culture of flask
cells for 8 days in the presence of different concentrations of
hydrolysed yeast proteins. The negative control is constituted by
the sole culture medium and the positive control by C vitamin. The
cells are then seeded in culture chamber. Just before confluence,
cells are fixed in methanol and the presence of elastin is detected
through immunohistochemistry by using a specific antibody directed
against elastin and a secondary fluorescent antibody. The
expression level of elastin is analysed through the microscope.
(iv) Repairing Effect
[0308] Tests are carried out on reconstructed human epidermises.
The reconstructed epidermises are cultured. On the 5.sup.th day,
cultures are treated with hydrolysed yeast proteins tested at 3
concentrations in local application.
[0309] Negative control is constituted by a non-treated culture,
the positive control by retinoic acid in local application. The
treatments are renewed on the 7.sup.th day and cultures are stopped
on the 10.sup.th day.
[0310] Freeing of hyaluronic acid in the medium is dosed on the
culture supernatants by means of a specific modified Elisa test.
The results are expressed in .mu.g/ml of liberated hyaluronic acid
and in stimulation percentage with respect to untreated
control.
[0311] The expression of hyaluronic acid in the epidermises is
assessed through immunohistology.
(v) Statistics
[0312] Intergroup comparisons are carried out through the analysis
of variance (ANOVA) with the aid of a Dunnett multiple comparison
test.
Results
(i) Assessment of the Moisturising Effect on Epidermis
[0313] In the presence of the hydrolysed yeast protein solution,
the lipid and hyaluronic acid synthesis by keratinocytes is
activated with respect to negative control.
[0314] In addition, in the presence of the hydrolysed yeast protein
solution, a stimulation of FLG, CK10 and TGK secretion is observed,
with a dose-effect.
(ii) Assessment of the Anti-Aging Effect on Dermis
[0315] In the presence of the hydrolysed yeast protein solution, an
activation of the cell proliferation and an increase in the
synthesis of the major components of the extracellular matrix is
observed (with respect to negative control).
(iii) Assessment of the Firmness Effect
[0316] In the presence of the hydrolysed yeast protein solution, an
increase in the collagen expression level is observed, as well as a
maturation of the collagen revealed by its deposition around the
matrix, with respect to negative control. The density increase in
the dermis equivalent (by diameter ratio on number of weaker cells
than that of the negative control) conveys a better contraction of
the collagen lattice. In addition, the elastin synthesis by
fibroblasts is activated with respect to negative control. All
these elements indicate that hydrolysed yeast proteins improve the
biomechanical qualities of dermis (in particular, in terms of
elasticity and compressibility).
(iv) Assessment of the Repairing Effect
[0317] In the presence of the hydrolysed yeast protein solution, an
increase in the hyaluronic acid expression is observed (with
respect to negative control).
Example 4
Anti-Seborrhoea and Anti-Acne Properties Equipment and Methods
[0318] The hydrolysed yeast protein solution is applied on the skin
or scalp of subjects showing a hyperseborrhoea at the skin or scalp
level, respectively.
[0319] The sebum secretion is then assessed by applying a sebum
absorbing patch on the part of the body treated. The patch is
afterwards analysed to quantify the sebaceous secretion.
[0320] The secretion after treatment is compared to the secretion
in the same subject before treatment.
Results
[0321] The hydrolysed yeast protein solution allows reducing the
quantity, of sebum secreted.
Example 5
Hair Applications
Equipment and Methods
(i) Hydrolysed Yeast Proteins
[0322] The hydrolysed yeast protein solution is that described in
the example 1.
(ii) Anti-Dandruff Effect
[0323] The hydrolysed yeast protein solution is applied on the
scalp of subjects suffering from dandruff. After treatment with the
hydrolysed yeast protein solution, a patch is applied on the
treated zone to recover the scalp dandruff.
[0324] The quantity of dandruff recovered on the patch is compared
before and after treatment.
(iii) Hair Growth
[0325] The hair growth kinetics is assessed in the following way:
before treatment, a lock of hair of a subject is coloured from the
root for 2 to 3 cm; the hydrolysed yeast protein solution is then
applied on the scalp; the distance between the root and the
beginning of colouring is measured.
[0326] The growth kinetics after treatment of a group of treated
subjects is compared to that obtained with a group of untreated
subjects.
(iv) Hair Brightness
[0327] Hair brightness is determined by measuring the quantity and
intensity of light reflected on the hair surface. To this purpose,
photos of hair are taken with crossed polarisation and
non-polarisation. The two photos are then converted into levels of
grey and hair brightness is obtained through subtraction of the
light between the two photos.
[0328] Hair brightness after applying the hydrolysed yeast protein
solution is compared to that obtained before treatment.
(v) Hair Softness
[0329] Hair softness is assessed through a sensory analysis by a
board of examiners made up of three qualified persons to assess
hair softness upon touch.
[0330] Hair softness is noted on a 0 to 10 scale, where note 0
corresponds to an absence of softness and note 10 to a great
softness.
[0331] Hair softness after applying the hydrolysed yeast protein
solution is compared to that obtained before treatment.
(vi) Hair Reconstruction
[0332] Hair reconstruction is assessed by measuring the hair
surface topography with an interferometric microscope.
[0333] The parameters allowing determining the condition of the
cuticle scales along the hair are the following:
[0334] opening of scales
[0335] length of scales
[0336] surface topology, namely roughness
[0337] The analysed surface measures 120.times.30 .mu.m.
[0338] Hair reconstruction after applying the hydrolysed yeast
protein solution is compared to the hair status before
treatment.
Results
[0339] Hair application of the hydrolysed yeast protein solution
allows the obtaining of an anti-dandruff effect and an increase of
the hair growth.
[0340] Hydrolysed yeast protein solution has also a hair repairing
effect, by allowing the improvement of brightness, softness, and
hair reconstruction. In particular, a reduction in the number of
cuticle scale openings, an increase in the length of scales and a
decrease in roughness, is observed.
Example 6
Examples of Cosmetic Compositions and Therapeutic Compositions
According to this Invention
[0341] The following compositions constitute non-exhaustive
examples of this invention.
Composition 1: Moisturising Cream (Oil in Water)
TABLE-US-00004 [0342] Percentage Ingredients (weight/weight)
Hydrolysed yeast proteins 1.5 (A composition) Caprylic and capryc
triglyceride 4 Mineral oil 2 Stearyl alcohol 3 Isopropyl palmitate
2 Glycerol stearate 6 PEG-100 Dimethicone 4 Glycerine 8
Preservative 0.3 Water 69.2
Composition 2: Lotion (Oil in Water)
TABLE-US-00005 [0343] Percentage Ingredients (weight/weight)
Hydrolysed yeast proteins 2.50 (A composition) paraffin oil 2.60
Propylene glycol 1.40 triglyceride 1.0 PEG-75 1.0 Coco-caprylate
caprate 1.0 Glycerol stearate 0.6 Dimethicone 0.5 Polyacrylic acid
0.3 Sodium hydroxide 0.11 perfume 0.10 EDTA 0.03 glycerine 5.00
colour 0.32 preservative 1.50 purified water 82.04
Composition 3: Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
TABLE-US-00006 [0344] Percentage Ingredients (weight/weight)
Hydrolysed yeast proteins 1.5 (A composition) Sodium lauryl sulfate
30 Disodium Laureth sulfate Cocoamphodiacetate Hexylene glycol
Cocamidopropylamine oxide 1 Extract of Indian watercress 1
Preservative 0.2 Citric acid pH 6 water spp 100
Composition 4: Moisturising Mask
TABLE-US-00007 [0345] Ingredients Percentage (weight/weight)
Hydrolysed yeast proteins (A composition) 4.00 Timiron flash 4.00
Propylene glycol 3.00 glycerine 3.00 urea 3.00 Mucic acid 0.30
perfume 0.30 Arabic gum 0.50 Xanthan gum 0.10 EDTA 0.10 allantoin
0.10 Sodium hydroxide 0.06 Polyvinyl alcohol 10.00 talc 10.00 95%
Alcohol 15.00 Purified water 46.54
* * * * *