U.S. patent application number 12/685057 was filed with the patent office on 2010-08-26 for self-tanning agents and dehydroascorbic acid or a monomeric, polymeric or isomeric derivative thereof for artifically coloring the skin.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Eve BAZELAIRE, Patrick CHOISY, Francis PRUCHE.
Application Number | 20100215597 12/685057 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 39148745 |
Filed Date | 2010-08-26 |
United States Patent
Application |
20100215597 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
BAZELAIRE; Eve ; et
al. |
August 26, 2010 |
SELF-TANNING AGENTS AND DEHYDROASCORBIC ACID OR A MONOMERIC,
POLYMERIC OR ISOMERIC DERIVATIVE THEREOF FOR ARTIFICALLY COLORING
THE SKIN
Abstract
Cosmetic compositions for artificially coloring the skin
contain, formulated into a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at
least dehydroascorbic acid and/or a monomeric derivative and/or
isomeric form and/or polymeric derivative thereof, and b) at least
one preferably monocarbonyl or polycarbonyl self-tanning agent; the
dehydroascorbic acid may be formed "in situ" from ascorbic acid or
a derivative thereof or a salt thereof via chemical oxidation
and/or via enzymatic oxidation.
Inventors: |
BAZELAIRE; Eve;
(Sainte-Genevieve Des Bois, FR) ; CHOISY; Patrick;
(Montlouis Sur Loire, FR) ; PRUCHE; Francis;
(Senlis, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
BUCHANAN, INGERSOLL & ROONEY PC
POST OFFICE BOX 1404
ALEXANDRIA
VA
22313-1404
US
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
39148745 |
Appl. No.: |
12/685057 |
Filed: |
January 11, 2010 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
PCT/FR2008/051262 |
Jul 7, 2008 |
|
|
|
12685057 |
|
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/59 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/064 20130101;
A61P 17/00 20180101; A61Q 19/04 20130101; A61K 2800/88 20130101;
A61K 8/062 20130101; A61K 8/676 20130101; A61K 8/042 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/59 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/49 20060101
A61K008/49 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jul 9, 2007 |
FR |
0756353 |
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition useful for artificially coloring the
skin, which comprises: a) at least dehydroascorbic acid and/or a
monomeric derivative thereof of formula (I) below and/or an isomer
thereof of formula (I') below and/or a polymeric derivative
thereof: ##STR00007## in which: OR.sub.1 and OR.sub.2, which may be
identical or different, are each OH; a linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkoxy radical; a
glycoside; a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, optionally
substituted with an aryl radical or a heterocycle; an aryl or
heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester optionally substituted with at
least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl radical; a phosphate group; a sulfate group,
and b) at least one self-tanning agent, formulated into a topically
applicable, physiologically acceptable medium therefor.
2. The cosmetic composition as defined by claim 1, in which the
self-tanning agent(s) is (are) selected from among isatin, alloxan,
ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde,
erythrulose, pyrazoline-4,5-dione derivatives, dihydroxyacetone
(DHA), 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones, and mixtures thereof.
3. The cosmetic composition as defined by claim 1, in which the
self-tanning agent(s) comprise(s) dihydroxyacetone (DHA).
4. The cosmetic composition according as defined by claim 1,
comprising dehydroascorbic acid of structure: ##STR00008##
5. The cosmetic composition as defined by claim 1, comprising
3a,6-dihydroxytetrahydrofuro[3,2-b]furan-2,3-dione of structure:
##STR00009##
6. The cosmetic composition as defined by claim 1, comprising
dimeric polymers of formula (II) below: ##STR00010## in which:
OR.sub.1, OR.sub.2, OR.sub.3 and OR.sub.4, which may be identical
or different, are each OH; a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkoxy radical; a glycoside; a linear
or branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.30 aliphatic
carboxylic acid ester, optionally substituted with an aryl radical
or a heterocycle; an aryl or heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester
optionally substituted with at least one linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl radical; a
phosphate group; a sulfate group.
7. The cosmetic composition as defined by claim 6, comprising the
dimer polymer of the following structure: ##STR00011##
8. A regime or regimen for artificially coloring the skin,
comprising topically applying onto the skin of an individual in
need of such treatment, a thus effective amount of a cosmetic
composition as defined by claim 1.
9. A regime or regimen for artificially coloring the skin as
defined by claim 8, comprising topically applying thereon: a) a
first component (B) containing, formulated into a physiologically
acceptable medium, at least ascorbic acid or a derivative or salt
thereof and at least one self-tanning agent; b) a second component
(C) containing, formulated into a physiologically acceptable
medium, at least one chemical oxidizing agent and/or one enzymatic
oxidizing agent; the components (B) and (C) being mixed together at
the time of topical application and applied simultaneously to the
skin, or alternatively applied to the skin one after the other.
10. A regime or regimen for artificially coloring the skin as
defined by claim 9, comprising topically applying thereon: a) a
first component (A) containing, formulated into a physiologically
acceptable medium, at least dehydroascorbic acid or a polymeric
derivative thereof; b) a second component (B) containing,
formulated into a physiologically acceptable medium, at least
ascorbic acid or a derivative or salt thereof, the self-tanning
agent(s) being present in component (A) and/or component (B); c) a
third component (C) containing, formulated into a physiologically
acceptable medium, at least one chemical oxidizing agent and/or one
enzymatic oxidizing agent; the components (A), (B) and (C) being
mixed together at the time of application to the skin, or else
applied to the skin one after the other.
11. The regime or regimen as defined by claim 9, said component (C)
containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent selected from
among hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates,
persalts, perborates, persulfates, peracids, and mixtures
thereof.
12. The regime or regimen as defined by claim 9, said component (C)
containing at least one enzymatic oxidizing agent selected from
among the oxidase enzymes.
13. The cosmetic composition as defined by claim 1, further
comprising one or more stabilizers and/or photoprotective agents
and/or wetting agents and/or penetrants and/or at least one
additional colorant.
14. The regime or regimen as defined by claim 10, said component
(A) comprising dehydroascorbic acid or a monomeric derivative
thereof of formula (I) or an isomer thereof of formula (I') or a
polymeric derivative thereof and/or said component (B) comprising
ascorbic acid or a salt or derivative thereof and further
comprising one or more stabilizers and/or photoprotective agents
and/or wetting agents and/or penetrants and/or at least one
additional colorant.
15. A multi-compartment device selected from among: (i) a
two-compartment device comprising: a first compartment comprising
component (B) and optionally component (A) as defined by claim 10,
and a second compartment comprising component (C) as defined
therein; (ii) a three-compartment device comprising: a first
compartment comprising component (A); a second compartment
comprising component (B); a third compartment comprising component
(C).
Description
CROSS-REFERENCE TO PRIORITY/PROVISIONAL APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims priority under 35 U.S.C. .sctn.120
of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/929,965, filed Jul. 19,
2007, and of .sctn.119 of FR 0756353, filed Jul. 9, 2007, and is a
continuation/national phase of PCT/FR 2008/051262, filed Jul. 7,
2008 and designating the United States (published in the French
language on Jan. 22, 2009 as WO 2009/010682 A2; the title and
abstract were also published in English), each hereby expressly
incorporated by reference in its entirety and each assigned to the
assignee hereof.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] 1. Technical Field of the Invention
[0003] The present invention relates to topically applicable
compositions for artificially coloring the skin, comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium
[0004] a) at least dehydroascorbic acid and/or a monomeric
derivative thereof of formula (I) and/or an isomer thereof of
formula (I') that will be defined later and/or a polymeric and
especially dimeric derivative thereof of formula (II) defined
later, and
[0005] b) at least one self-tanning agent.
[0006] The present invention also relates to a process for
artificially coloring the skin and more particularly to a process
for artificially tanning the skin, which entails topically applying
thereto a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically
acceptable medium
[0007] a) at least dehydroascorbic acid and/or a monomeric
derivative thereof corresponding to formula (I) defined hereinbelow
and/or an isomer thereof of formula (I') defined hereinbelow and/or
a polymeric derivative thereof, and
[0008] b) at least one self-tanning agent.
[0009] 2. Description of Background and/or Related and/or Prior
Art
[0010] Today, it is important to look healthy, and a tanned skin is
always a sign of good health. However, a natural tan is not always
desirable since it requires long exposure to UV radiation, in
particular to UV-A radiation that causes tanning of the skin but,
however, is liable to induce an adverse change therein, in
particular in the case of sensitive skin or of skin that is
continually exposed to solar radiation (erythema, burns, loss of
elasticity, appearance of wrinkles, premature aging of the skin,
and the like). It is thus desirable to find an alternative to a
natural tan that is compatible with the requirements of such skin
types.
[0011] Most of the cosmetic products useful for artificially
tanning the skin are based on carbonyl derivatives which, by
interacting with the free amine functions of the skin, in
particular the amino acids, peptides or proteins of the skin,
permit the formation of colored products.
[0012] To this end, it is known that dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, is a
particularly advantageous product which is commonly used in
cosmetics as an agent for artificially tanning the skin; when
applied to the skin, in particular to the face, provides a tanning
or bronzing effect which is similar in appearance to that which may
result from prolonged exposure to sunlight (a natural tan) or under
a UV lamp.
[0013] One drawback of DHA is the length of time the coloration
takes to develop: specifically, several hours (3 to 5 hours in
general) are required for the coloration to be revealed. Another
drawback of DHA is its tendency to produce yellow shades that harm
the production of a natural skin tone. There is thus increasing
demand for self-tanning products that act quickly and provide a
coloration closer to that of a natural tan.
[0014] To overcome the problem of kinetics and to enable
visualization of the application of the product (better homogeneity
of the results), it is possible to combine DHA with dyes. However,
the susceptibility of DHA towards many chemical species limits the
possible associations (e.g.: colored iron oxides). Furthermore, the
colorants used (carmine, eosin, water-soluble azo dyes, etc.) do
not have good resistance to water and may stain clothing.
[0015] Thus, need continues for novel compounds and novel
compositions that can give the skin an artificial coloration close
to that of a natural tan in a simple, effective and fast manner,
and that can also enable visualization of the product without the
drawbacks mentioned previously.
[0016] WO 2005/039510 discloses the use of dehydroascorbic acid or
a salt thereof produced in situ via enzymatic oxidation, as a
fixing agent in the permanent waving of hair. DE-19745354 also
discloses the use of dehydroascorbic acid in combination with
particular compounds with primary or secondary amine groups or
hydroxyl groups, for coloring the hair.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0017] After extensive studies conducted in the field of artificial
coloring of the skin, it has now been discovered that
dehydroascorbic acid or a polymer thereof combined with at least
one self-tanning agent such as dihydroxyacetone can impart, after
topical application of the product to the skin, an artificial
coloration close to that of a natural tan, which develops more
quickly (visible after 15 minutes) than standard self-tanning
agents used alone. This combination gives stronger colors whose red
component is more pronounced, and affords a range of shades closer
to natural pigmentation than those obtained with standard
self-tanning agents used alone.
[0018] The coloring products in accordance with the invention
containing this combination also have the advantage, after
application to the skin, of very rapidly producing a color (after
about 15 minutes) and of thus enabling visualization of the area of
application of the product.
[0019] The present invention thus features compositions for
artificially coloring skin, comprising, in a physiologically
acceptable medium
[0020] a) dehydroascorbic acid and/or at least one monomeric
derivative thereof of formula (I) and/or an isomer thereof of
formula (I') and/or a polymeric derivative thereof, and
[0021] b) at least one self-tanning agent.
[0022] The present invention also features a process, whether
regime or regimen, for artificially coloring the skin and
especially for artificially tanning the skin, which entails
topically applying thereto a cosmetic composition comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium
[0023] a) at least dehydroascorbic acid and/or a monomeric
derivative thereof of formula (I) and/or an isomer thereof of
formula (I') that will be defined later and/or a polymeric
derivative thereof, and
[0024] b) at least one self-tanning agent.
[0025] Other aspects of the invention will be defined later in
detail.
[0026] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression
"artificial coloration of the skin" means a long-lasting,
non-covering coloration (i.e., a coloration that does not have a
tendency to opacify the skin), which is not removed either with
water or using a solvent, and which is resistant both to rubbing
and to washing with a solution containing surfactants. Such a
long-lasting coloration is thus distinguished from the superficial
and temporary coloration provided, for example, by a makeup
product.
[0027] For the purposes of the present invention, the term
"polymer" means any molecule having in its structure at least two
repeating structural units.
[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression
"physiologically acceptable medium" means any support that is
compatible with the skin, the nails, the lips, the eyelashes and
the eyebrows, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which
does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort (stinging,
tautness or redness) liable to put the consumer off using this
composition comprising such a support.
[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression
"skin self-tanning agent" means a compound that is capable of
producing, on contact with the skin, a colored reaction with the
free amine functions present in the skin, such as amino acids,
peptides or proteins.
[0030] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present
invention will become apparent from the detailed description that
follows.
[0031] The self-tanning agents are generally selected from among
certain monocarbonyl or polycarbonyl compounds, for instance
isatin, alloxan, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde,
glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazoline-4,5-dione derivatives as
described in FR-2466492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA),
and 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones as described in EP-903342. DHA
will preferably be used.
[0032] DHA may be used in free and/or encapsulated form, for
example in lipid vesicles such as liposomes, especially described
in WO 97/25970.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF BEST MODE AND SPECIFIC/PREFERRED
EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION
[0033] The self-tanning agent(s) is (are) generally present in
proportions ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from
0.2% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 8% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0034] Dehydroascorbic acid and the monomeric derivatives in
accordance with the invention correspond to formula (I) below, and
the isomers thereof correspond to formula (I') below:
##STR00001##
in which:
[0035] OR.sub.1 and OR.sub.2, which may be identical or different,
are each OH; a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 and more preferentially C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkoxy
radical; a glycoside and more preferentially glucose; a linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.30 (preferably
C.sub.1-C.sub.15) aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, which may be
substituted with an aryl radical or a heterocycle; an aryl or
heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester which may be substituted with at
least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 (more preferentially C.sub.1-C.sub.18) alkyl
radical; a phosphate group; a sulfate group.
[0036] Preferentially, R.sub.2 is a linear or branched, saturated
or unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.30 (preferably C.sub.1-C.sub.18)
aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, which may be substituted with an
aryl radical or a heterocycle; an aryl or heterocyclic carboxylic
acid ester which may be substituted with at least one linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.30 (more
preferentially C.sub.1-C.sub.18) alkyl radical.
[0037] Dehydroascorbic acid of formula (I) is also known as
threo-2,3-hexodiulosono-1,4-lactone, 9Cl (CAS 490-83-5) and has the
structure:
##STR00002##
[0038] Its isomeric form of formula (I') known as
3a,6-dihydroxytetrahydrofuro[3,2-b]furan-2,3-dione has the
structure:
##STR00003##
[0039] Among the monomeric derivatives of dehydroascorbic acid of
formula (I) that are particularly exemplary are the following
compounds:
[0040] L-threo-2,3-hexodiulosonic acid, .gamma.-lactone,
5,6-bis(3-phenyl-2-propenoate) [0041] (CAS #106406-96-6) with
OR.sub.1.dbd.OR.sub.2=3-phenyl-2-propenoate
L-threo-2,3-hexodiulosonic acid, .gamma.-lactone, 6-acetate [0042]
(CAS #106227-02-5) with OR.sub.2=acetate and R.sub.1.dbd.H
L-threo-2,3-hexodiulosonic acid, .gamma.-lactone, 5,6-diacetate
[0043] (CAS #59681-41-3) with OR.sub.1.dbd.OR.sub.2=acetate
L-threo-2,3-hexodiulosonic acid, .gamma.-lactone, 6-hexadecanoate
[0044] (CAS #63247-05-2) with OR.sub.2=hexadecanoate and
OR.sub.1.dbd.H L-threo-2,3-hexodiulosonic acid, .gamma.-lactone,
6-octadecanoate (9Cl) [0045] (CAS #59681-40-2) with
OR.sub.2=octadecanoate and OR.sub.1.dbd.OH
L-threo-2,3-hexodiulosonic acid, .gamma.-lactone, 6-benzoate [0046]
(CAS #63247-04-1) with OR.sub.2=benzoate and OR.sub.1.dbd.OH.
[0047] Among the examples of polymeric derivatives that are
representative are the dimeric compounds of formula (II) below:
##STR00004##
in which:
[0048] OR.sub.1, OR.sub.2, OR.sub.3 and OR.sub.4, which may be
identical or different, are each OH; a linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.30 and more preferentially
C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkoxy radical; a glycoside and more
preferentially glucose; a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.30 (preferably C.sub.1-C.sub.18)
aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, which may be substituted with an
aryl radical or a heterocycle; an aryl or heterocyclic carboxylic
acid ester which may be substituted with at least one linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.30 (more
preferentially C.sub.1-C.sub.18) alkyl radical; a phosphate group;
a sulfate group.
[0049] Preferentially, R.sub.1 and/or R.sub.2 will be a linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.30 (preferably
C.sub.1-C.sub.18) aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, which may be
substituted with an aryl radical or a heterocycle; an aryl or
heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester which may be substituted with at
least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 (more preferentially C.sub.1-C.sub.18) alkyl
radical.
[0050] Among the dehydroascorbic acid-based dimers of formula (II),
particularly exemplary are the following compounds: [0051]
2H,8H-bisfuro[3',2':2,3]furo[3,4-b:3',4'-e][1,4]dioxin-5,11(5aH,
11aH)-dione, [0052]
3,5a,9,11a-tetrakis(benzoyloxy)tetrahydro-[3S-(3.alpha.,3a.alpha.,5a.beta-
.,6aS*,9a.alpha.,11a.beta.,12aS*)] (CAS #103559-39-3) with
OR.sub.1.dbd.OR.sub.2.dbd.OR.sub.3.dbd.OR.sub.4=benzoate [0053]
1,6,9,13-tetraoxadispiro[4.2.4.2]tetradecane-7,14-dicarboxylic
acid, 4,12-dihydroxy-3,7,11,14-tetramethoxy-, di-.gamma.-lactone
(CAS # 94329-25-6) with
R.sub.1.dbd.R.sub.2.dbd.R.sub.3.dbd.R.sub.4=methyl [0054]
2H,8H-bisfuro[3',2':2,3]furo[3,4-b:3',4'-e][1,4]dioxin-5,11(5aH,11-
aH)-dione, [0055]
3,5a,9,11a-tetrakis(acetyloxy)tetrahydro-[3S-(3.alpha.,3a.alpha.,5a.beta.-
,6aS*,9.alpha.,9a.alpha.,11a.beta.,12aS*)] (CAS #25726-18-5) with
OR.sub.1.dbd.OR.sub.2.dbd.OR.sub.3.dbd.OR.sub.4=acetate [0056]
2H,8H-bisfuro[3',2':2,3]furo[3,4-b:3',4'-e][1,4]dioxin-5,11(5aH,11aH)-dio-
ne, [0057]
3,5a,9,11a-tetrakis(3''-phenyl-2''-propenoxy)tetrahydro-[3S-(3.-
alpha.,3a.alpha.,5a.beta.,6aS*,9.alpha.,9a.alpha.,11a.beta.,12aS*)]
(CAS #106406-97-7) with
OR.sub.1.dbd.OR.sub.2.dbd.OR.sub.3.dbd.OR.sub.4=3-phenyl-2-propenoate.
[0058] More particularly exemplary is the dimeric compound (CAS
#72691-25-29) with R.sub.1.dbd.R.sub.2.dbd.H, having the following
structure:
##STR00005##
[0059] According to one particular form of the invention, the
dehydroascorbic acid may be formed "in situ" from ascorbic acid or
a derivative thereof or a salt thereof via chemical oxidation
and/or via enzymatic oxidation according to the following reaction
scheme:
2(ascorbic acid)+O.sub.2.fwdarw.2(dehydroascorbic
acid)+2H.sub.2O
[0060] The oxidation reaction may in particular be efficiently
catalyzed by many types of enzymes, for instance the ascorbate
oxidases produced by the majority of plants and also certain
bacteria, yeasts or animals (E.C. [1.10.3.3] Lee, M. H.; Dawson, C.
R. Methods Enzymol., 1979, 62, 30-39).
[0061] This invention also features a process for artificially
coloring the skin, and more particularly for artificially tanning
the skin, which comprises topically applying thereto:
[0062] a) a first component (B) containing, in a physiologically
acceptable medium, at least a) ascorbic acid or a derivative or
salt thereof and b) at least one self-tanning agent;
[0063] b) a second component (C) containing, in a physiologically
acceptable medium, at least one chemical oxidizing agent and/or one
enzymatic oxidizing agent; components (B) and (C) being mixed
together at the time of use and applied simultaneously to the skin,
or alternatively applied to the skin one after the other.
[0064] The chemical oxidizing agents conventionally used for the
oxidation of ascorbic acid or derivatives or salts thereof are, for
example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates,
persalts such as perborates and persulfates, and peracids, or
mixtures thereof.
[0065] The enzymatic oxidizing systems used are conventionally
oxidase enzymes using either atmospheric oxygen or a substrate to
form hydrogen peroxide, among which mention may be made of
2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases, ascorbate oxidases,
etc.
[0066] The enzymes used in accordance with the present invention
are preferably selected from among the ascorbate oxidases using
atmospheric oxygen. More preferentially, the enzymes are selected
from among those belonging to the Enzyme Commission classification
[1.10.3.3]. They are generally of plant origin.
[0067] The ascorbate oxidase enzyme may be derived, for example,
from the following species: Arabidopsis, Brassica, Cucumis,
Curcubita, Myrothecium, Nicotiana, Oryza, Triticum. It is more
preferentially selected from among those derived from Curbita pepo
mudullosa (courgette). It is also possible to use an ascorbate
oxidase enzyme obtained from numerous other plants, including'
cabbage (Brassica oleracea), cucumber (Cucumis savitus), pumpkin
(Curcubita cv. Ebisu Nankin), tobacco (Nicotiana tabacum), mustard
(Sinapsis alba), rice (Oryza sativa) and wheat. Other sources
include mushrooms (Myrotectium verrucaria) and thermophilic
bacteria (Acremonium sp. HI-25).
[0068] The enzyme may be present as a solution or in powder form
and may preferably be stabilized with buffers, glycerol, sugars or
other polyhydroxylated compounds, metal-chelating agents such as
EDTA, thiols such as thioglycerol, mercaptoethanol or
dithiothreitol, polyethylene glycol, unreactive proteins or other
enzyme-preserving agents. The enzymes may also be stabilized via
covalent modification according to standard techniques. The enzyme
may also be immobilized by covalent bonding onto a solid support
such as surface-modified silica, alumina, glass, oxirane-modified
polymethacrylate, carboxyalkylcellulose, aminoalkyl silica,
aminoalkyl glass or aminoalkylcellulose microparticles. The enzymes
may also be adsorbed onto the surfaces of hydrophobically or
ionically modified particles such as carboxyalkylcelluloses or
dialkylaminocelluloses. Another possibility consists in covalently
bonding the enzyme with a synthetic or biosynthetic water-soluble
polymer, such as polyethylene glycols, poly(acrylic acids),
poly(vinyl alcohols), polyethyleneimines, dextran and proteins such
as gelatin or uricase.
[0069] The said enzyme is preferably present in the composition
resulting from the mixing of components (B) and (C) in contents
ranging from 1 to 10,000 ppm and preferably 100 to 1,000 ppm.
[0070] The present invention also features a multi-compartment
device, also known as a "kit" or "skin-coloring equipment",
comprising:
[0071] a first compartment comprising component (B) as defined
above;
[0072] a second compartment comprising component (C) as defined
above.
[0073] According to a first embodiment of the device in accordance
with the invention, components (B) and (C) may be conditioned
independently each in a container delimiting at least one
compartment, the said container being closed by means of a closing
member.
[0074] The container may be in any adequate form. It may especially
be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a sachet
or a carton.
[0075] The closing member may be in the form of a removable
stopper, a lid, a cap, a tear-off strip or a capsule, especially of
the type comprising a body attached to the container and a cover
cap articulated on the body. It may also be in the form of a member
for selectively closing the container, especially a pump, a valve
or a flap valve.
[0076] The product may be contained directly in the container, or
indirectly. By way of example, the product may be arranged on an
impregnated support, especially in the form of a wipe or a pad, and
arranged (individually or in plurality) in a box or in a sachet.
Such a support incorporating the product is described, for example,
in WO 01/03538.
[0077] The closing member may be coupled to the container by
screwing. Alternatively, the coupling from the closing member and
the container is done other than by screwing, especially via a
bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening, gripping, welding, bonding
or by magnetic attraction. The term "click-fastening" in particular
means any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of
material by elastic deformation of a portion, especially of the
closing member, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained
position of the said portion after the crossing of the bead or
cord.
[0078] The container may be at least partially made of
thermoplastic material. Examples of such thermoplastic materials
include polypropylene or polyethylene.
[0079] Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic
material, especially glass or metal (or alloy).
[0080] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls,
especially in the form of a tube or a tubular bottle.
[0081] The container may comprise means for distributing or
facilitating the distribution of the composition. By way of
example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the
composition to exit in response to a positive pressure inside the
container, this positive pressure being caused by elastic (or
non-elastic) squeezing of the walls of the container.
[0082] According to another embodiment, the respective components
(B) and (C) are conditioned in two containers that are joined
together so as to be securely fastened to each other.
[0083] For example, they are contained in two containers held
together via an outer packaging. In particular, each container is
equipped with a dispensing member, for example a pump or a valve.
Preferably, this dispensing member is manually actuated. The pump
may also be without an air inlet, in the case where the composition
is to be protected from any contact with the exterior, during its
storage time.
[0084] According to a first embodiment, the actuation of these
dispensing members leads the compositions into an assembly mixing
chamber, so as to ensure mixing prior to them being dispensed from
this assembly formed by these two joined containers.
[0085] Alternatively, according to a first embodiment, actuation of
these distribution members leads the compositions into a chamber in
which the whole is mixed, so as to ensure that they are mixed
before being dispensed from this assembly formed by these two
joined containers.
[0086] Alternatively, according to a second embodiment, the
actuation of these dispensing members leads to expulsion of the
compositions without premixing.
[0087] One particular embodiment of the invention is a device as
described in EP-1270444. It is a device for the simultaneous
dispensing of the two components (B) and (C), conditioned
separately in first and second flexible-wall sachets, the said
device comprising:
[0088] i) means for solidly holding the two sachets in a superposed
position such that respective outlet orifices of the said sachets
are aligned in the region of each other; and
[0089] ii) means, which are movable relative to the fixing means,
and capable of pressurizing the two sachets so as to force the
expulsion of their contents through their respective outlet
orifices in a predetermined ratio.
[0090] Another particular embodiment of the invention is a device
as described in EP-1300344. It is a device for the combined
dispensing of the two components (B) and (C) conditioned
separately, comprising:
[0091] a) a first flexible-wall container containing component
(B);
[0092] b) a second flexible-wall container, outside the first,
containing component (C);
[0093] c) a stage on which the first and second containers are
mounted;
[0094] d) a dispensing member, which is movable relative to the
stage, and capable of making the device pass, irreversibly, from a
first configuration in which the first and second containers are
isolated from at least one dispensing orifice formed by the said
dispensing member, to a second configuration in which the first and
second containers are in communication with the said dispensing
orifice(s).
[0095] Thus, in the second configuration of the device, in response
to a pressure exerted on the flexible walls of the first and second
containers, which are arranged adjacent to each other, the first
and second products may be dispensed together.
[0096] The combined expulsion of the two products to prepare a
composition, especially a cosmetic composition, may take place via
a single dispensing orifice, upstream of which may be located a
mixing zone in which the two products are placed in contact before
being dispensed in mixed form.
[0097] Another particular embodiment of a device of the invention
is a twin pump comprising:
[0098] a) two reservoirs, which are preferably housed in the same
outer housing comprising, respectively, component (B) or component
(C), preferably housed in the same outer housing;
[0099] b) two pumps, each mounted on a reservoir,
[0100] c) a single push-button, which is axially movable along a
main elongation axis of the outer housing, and which allows the
simultaneous opening of the two pumps to be actuated; these two
pumps each moreover being connected via an outlet channel emerging
at least one dispensing orifice.
[0101] The said dispensing orifice may be unique and common to the
two reservoirs. In this case, the products exit in mixed form.
[0102] According to another embodiment, each outlet channel is
associated with its own dispensing orifice. The products contained
in these reservoirs are thus dispensed from the device without ever
having come into contact beforehand inside the device. This type of
embodiment is especially described in FR-2789371; U.S. Pat. No.
5,224,627; WO 97/05040.
[0103] Another particular embodiment of a device of the invention
is a double aerosol comprising:
[0104] a) two reservoirs, preferably housed in the same outer
housing comprising at least one propellant and, respectively,
component (B) or component (c),
[0105] b) two aerosol valves, each mounted on a reservoir,
[0106] c) a single push-button, which is axially movable along a
main elongation axis of the outer housing, and allowing the
simultaneous opening of the two pumps to be actuated; these two
valves each moreover being connected via an outlet channel emerging
at least one dispensing orifice.
[0107] The said dispensing orifice may be unique and common to the
two reservoirs. In this case, the products exit in mixed form.
[0108] According to another embodiment, each outlet channel is
associated with its own dispensing orifice. The products contained
in these reservoirs are then dispensed from the device, without
ever having come into contact beforehand inside the device.
[0109] Needless to say, depending on the device used, one skilled
in the art will take care, for each of components (B) and (C), to
select the viscosity and rheological properties that are suitable
for allowing good expulsion of the products from the said
device.
[0110] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, to
increase the remanence of the color and/or the color uniformity
obtained after applying dehydroascorbic acid or a monomeric or
polymeric derivative thereof and the self-tanning agent to the
skin, these products are combined with ascorbic acid or a
derivative or salt thereof.
[0111] Another aspect of the invention is a process for
artificially coloring the skin and more particularly for
artificially tanning the skin, which comprises topically applying
thereto:
[0112] a) a first component (A) containing, in a physiologically
acceptable medium, at least dehydroascorbic acid or a polymeric
derivative thereof;
[0113] b) a second component (B) containing, in a physiologically
acceptable medium, at least ascorbic acid or a derivative or salt
thereof; the self-tanning agent(s) being present in component (A)
and/or component (B);
[0114] c) a third component (C) containing, in a physiologically
acceptable medium, at least one chemical oxidizing agent and/or one
enzymatic oxidizing agent; components (A), (B) and (C) being mixed
together at the time of use and applied to the skin, or else
applied to the skin one after the other.
[0115] The self-tanning agent(s) is (are) generally present in
proportions ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from
0.2% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 8% by
weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) comprising
dehydroascorbic acid or a monomeric or polymeric derivative thereof
and/or composition (B) comprising ascorbic acid or a salt or
derivative thereof.
[0116] The present invention also features a multi-compartment
device, also known as a "kit" or "skin-coloring equipment" selected
from among
(i) a two-compartment device comprising: [0117] a first compartment
comprising component (B) as defined above and optionally component
(A) as defined above, and [0118] a second compartment comprising
component (C) as defined above, (ii) a three-compartment device
comprising: [0119] a first compartment comprising component (A) as
defined above, [0120] a second compartment comprising component (B)
as defined above, [0121] a third compartment comprising component
(C) as defined above.
[0122] The multi-compartment devices that may be used may be
selected from among those described above.
[0123] Dehydroascorbic acid or a polymeric derivative thereof is
preferably used in contents ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight and
more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition containing it.
[0124] Ascorbic acid or a derivative or salt thereof is preferably
used in contents ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight and more
preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition containing it.
[0125] Galenical Forms:
[0126] The compositions of the invention may be in any form that is
suitable for topical application, especially in the form of aqueous
gels, in the form of emulsions obtained by dispersing a fatty phase
(also known as an oily phase) in an aqueous phase (O/W) or,
conversely, (W/O) or multiple emulsions (for example W/O/W, O/W/O
or O/O/W). They may be more or less fluid and may have the
appearance of a white or colored cream, a pomade, a milk, a lotion,
a serum, a paste, a powder or a solid tube, and they may optionally
be packaged as an aerosol and be in the form of a mousse or spray.
These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
[0127] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the
compositions of the invention may be in the form of an emulsion and
in this case may comprise at least one oily phase. The proportion
of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 1% to 80% by
weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight and better still from
2% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition. The fatty substances of the oily phase, especially the
oils, and the emulsifiers and coemulsifiers that may be present,
used in the composition in emulsion form are selected from among
those conventionally used in cosmetics or dermatology. The
emulsifier and the coemulsifier, when they are present, are
generally in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight,
preferably from 0.3% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5% to
15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The
emulsion may also contain lipid vesicles in addition to or instead
of the emulsifiers and/or coemulsifiers.
[0128] The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier
selected from among amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic
emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are
selected in an appropriate manner according to the continuous phase
of the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W). When the emulsion is
multiple, it generally comprises an emulsifier in the primary
emulsion and an emulsifier in the outer phase into which the
primary emulsion is introduced.
[0129] As emulsifiers that may be used for the preparation of the
W/O emulsions, examples that may be mentioned include alkyl esters
or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone
surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture
of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, marketed under the
trademarks DC 5225 C and DC 3225 C by Dow Corning, and
alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol
marketed under the trademark "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by
Dow Corning, cetyl dimethicone copolyol marketed under the
trademark Abil EM 90.RTM. by Goldschmidt, and the mixture of
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate
marketed under the trademark Abil WE 09.RTM. by Goldschmidt. One or
more co-emulsifiers may also be added thereto, which may be
selected, advantageously, from the group comprising branched-chain
fatty acid esters of polyol, and especially branched-chain fatty
acid esters of glycerol and/or of sorbitan, for example
polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product marketed under the
trademark Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such
as the product marketed under the trademark Arlacel 987 by ICI,
sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product marketed under
the trademark Arlacel 986 by ICI, and mixtures thereof.
[0130] As emulsifiers that may be used for the preparation of the
O/W emulsions, examples that may be mentioned include nonionic
emulsifiers such as fatty acid esters of oxyalkylenated (more
particularly polyoxyethylenated) polyols, for example polyethylene
glycol stearates, for instance PEG-100 stearate, PEG-50 stearate
and PEG-40 stearate; fatty acid esters of oxyalkylenated sorbitan
comprising, for example, from 20 to 100 EO, for example those
marketed under the trademarks Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema;
oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alkyl
ethers; alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated sugar esters, for instance
sucrose stearate such as PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate;
sorbitan esters such as the sorbitan palmitate marketed under the
trademark Span 40 by Uniqema; diacid esters of fatty alcohols, for
instance dimyristyl tartrate; mixtures of these emulsifiers, for
instance the mixture of glyceryl stearate and of PEG-100 stearate
(CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate) marketed under the
trademark Arlacel 165 by Uniqema and under the trademark Simulsol
165 by SEPPIC; or the mixture of dimyristyl tartrate, cetearyl
alcohol, Pareth-7 and PEG-25 laureth-25, marketed under the
trademark Cosmacol PSE by Sasol (CTFA name: Dimyristyl
tartrate/cetearyl alcohol/12-15 Pareth 7/PPG 25 laureth 25).
[0131] Coemulsifiers such as, for example, fatty alcohols having
from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance cetyl alcohol, stearyl
alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol,
2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl
alcohol, or fatty acids, may be added to these emulsifiers.
[0132] It is also possible to prepare emulsions without emulsifying
surfactants or containing less than 0.5% of them relative to the
total weight of composition (A) or (B), by using suitable
compounds, for stabilizing the said emulsions, for example
amphiphilic polymers or electrolytes.
[0133] Additives:
[0134] When the composition of the invention is in emulsion form,
it comprises at least one oily phase that contains at least one
oil, especially a cosmetic oil. The term "oil" means a fatty
substance that is liquid at room temperature (25.degree. C.).
[0135] As oils that may be used in the composition of the
invention, it is possible to use, for example, hydrocarbon-based
oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene (or squalane);
hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as caprylic/capric
acid triglycerides, for instance those marketed by Stearineries
Dubois or those marketed under the trademarks Miglyol 810, 812 and
818 by Dynamit Nobel, or alternatively oils of plant origin, for
instance sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil,
grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,
macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil,
jojoba oil and shea butter oil; synthetic oils; silicone oils, for
instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs)
containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or
pasty at room temperature; fluoro oils, such as partially
hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, for instance
those described in JP-A-2295912; ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether
(CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether); C.sub.12-C.sub.15 fatty alkyl
benzoates (Finsolv TN from Finetex); arylalkyl benzoate
derivatives, for instance 2-phenylethyl benzoate (X-Tend 226 from
ISP); and amido oils, for instance isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate
(Eldew SL-205 from Ajinomoto); and mixtures thereof.
[0136] The compositions of the invention may also contain one or
more organic solvents that may be selected from among the group
consisting of hydrophilic organic solvents, lipophilic organic
solvents and amphiphilic solvents, or mixtures thereof.
[0137] Examples of hydrophilic organic solvents that may be
mentioned include linear or branched monohydric alcohols having
from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, propanol, butanol,
isopropanol or isobutanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80
ethylene oxides; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol,
butylene glycol, glycerol or sorbitol; monoalkyl or dialkyl
isosorbides in which the alkyl groups contain from 1 to 5 carbon
atoms, for instance dimethyl isosorbide; glycol ethers, for
instance diethylene glycol monomethyl ether or monoethyl ether and
propylene glycol ethers, for instance dipropylene glycol methyl
ether.
[0138] Amphiphilic organic solvents that may be mentioned include
polypropylene glycol (PPG) derivatives such as fatty acid esters of
polypropylene glycol, and derivatives of PPG and of fatty alcohols,
for instance PPG-23 oleyl ether, and PPG-36 oleate.
[0139] Examples of lipophilic organic solvents that may be
mentioned include fatty esters such as diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl
adipate or alkyl benzoates.
[0140] The compositions in accordance with the present invention
may also comprise standard cosmetic adjuvants selected from among
softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients,
silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic,
cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants,
fillers, polymers, propellants, and acidifying or basifying agents,
or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics and/or
dermatology.
[0141] Hydrophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include
carboxyvinyl polymers such as carbopols (carbomers) and the Pemulen
products (acrylate/C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer) and
homopolymers and copolymers of acrylamide and/or of
2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), for instance
sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate (and) polysorbate 80 (and)
sorbitan oleate marketed under the trademark Simulgel 800 by
SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose;
polysaccharides and especially gums such as xanthan gum; and
mixtures thereof.
[0142] Lipophilic thickeners include modified clays such as
hectorite and derivatives thereof, for instance the products
marketed under the trademark Bentone.
[0143] Preserving agents include para-hydroxybenzoic acid esters,
also known as Parabens.RTM. (in particular methyl paraben, ethyl
paraben and propyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde
generators, for instance imidazolidinylurea or diazolidinylurea,
chlorhexidine digluconate, sodium benzoate, caprylyl glycol,
iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, pentylene glycol,
alkyltrimethylammonium bromides such as myristyltrimethylammonium
bromide (CTFA name: myrtrimonium bromide), dodecyltrimethylammonium
bromide, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof
such as the mixture marketed under the trademark Cetrimide.RTM. by
FEF Chemicals. The preserving agent may be present in the
composition according to the invention in a content ranging from
0.001% to 10% by weight, especially ranging from 0.1% to 5% by
weight and in particular ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] According to one particular form of the invention, to
improve the stability of the dehydroascorbic acid or a polymer
thereof and/or that of ascorbic acid or a salt or derivative
thereof, each of these active agents may be encapsulated according
to standard encapsulation techniques.
[0145] The processes for artificially coloring the skin and more
particularly for artificially tanning the skin may be applied to
the various ethnic skin types.
[0146] These skin types may be classified on the basis of their
reactivity to the effects of solar radiation according to the scale
proposed by Fitzpatrick.
[0147] According to this scale, the various existing skin types may
be distinguished according to the following types:
TABLE-US-00001 Type Skin reactivity Origin I Always burns, never
tans Celtic II Always burns, tans very little Germanic III Burns
moderately, tans gradually European IV Burns lightly, tans very
easily Mediterranean V Rarely burns, tans deeply Middle Eastern-
South American VI Never burns, highly pigmented African
[0148] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the
process is useful for caring for people with dark skin (especially
of prototypes IV to VI).
[0149] According to another embodiment of the invention, the
process is useful for caring for people with fair skin (especially
of phototypes Ito III).
[0150] Stabilizers:
[0151] To improve the stability of dehydroascorbic acid or a
monomer or polymer thereof and/or that of ascorbic acid or a salt
or derivative thereof, the compositions in accordance with the
invention containing them may also include one or more
stabilizers.
[0152] Examples of stabilizers that may be mentioned include:
[0153] 1) antioxidants,
[0154] 2) chelating agents,
[0155] 3) non-crosslinked N-vinylimidazole polymers or copolymers
such as those in EP-1316302.
[0156] According to the invention, the expression "non-crosslinked
N-vinylimidazole polymer or copolymer" means any polymer comprising
N-vinylimidazole units, and not comprising a crosslinking agent.
Copolymers that are suitable for use in the invention are, for
example, copolymers comprising N-vinylimidazole units and
N-vinylpyrrolidone and/or N-vinylcaprolactam units.
[0157] In one advantageous aspect of the invention, the copolymer
has a mole fraction of N-vinylimidazole units of from 0.1 to 1 and
more preferentially from 0.4 to 0.9.
[0158] According to one advantageous aspect of the invention, the
mole ratio from the N-vinylimidazole unit equivalent and the
oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active agent ranges from 0.004 to
16 and preferentially from 0.01 to 1.
[0159] An N-vinylimidazole/N-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer will
preferentially be used.
[0160] The weight-average molar mass of the N-vinylimidazole
polymers will advantageously be from 1,000 to 1.times.10.sup.7 and
preferably from 5000 to 5.times.10.sup.6.
[0161] The vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole (50/50) copolymer with a
weight-average molar mass of 1,200,000 marketed under the reference
Luvitec VPI 55K72W by BASF or the vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole
(50/50) copolymer with a weight-average molar mass of 10,000
marketed under the reference Luvitec VPI 55K18P by BASF may be used
for this purpose. The polymers or copolymers according to the
invention may be prepared, for example, according to the method
described in WO 97/45517.
[0162] Stabilizers that may also be used include (4) amphiphilic
polymers selected from among polyisobutylene-based oligomers or
polymers comprising a polyisobutylene apolar portion containing at
least 40 carbon atoms and at least one polar end portion
constituted of carboxylic or dicarboxylic acids, anhydrides thereof
or modified forms thereof in the form of esters, amides or salts,
and mixtures thereof as described in 1,481,677.
[0163] These amphiphilic polymers are constituted of a
polyisobutylene apolar portion and of at least one polar
portion.
[0164] The polyisobutylene apolar portion contains at least 40
carbon atoms and preferably from 60 to 700 carbon atoms. It is
important for this portion to contain at least 40 carbon atoms to
achieve the aim of the invention. If there are fewer than 40 carbon
atoms, a satisfactorily stable system is not obtained.
[0165] The polar portion of these amphiphilic polymers or oligomers
is constituted of carboxylic or dicarboxylic acids, anhydrides
thereof or modified forms thereof in the form of esters, amides or
salts, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polar end portion is
constituted of dicarboxylic acids or anhydrides thereof or of
modified forms thereof in the form of esters, amides or salts.
[0166] The expression "modified forms in the form of esters, amides
or salts" is carboxylic or dicarboxylic acids modified with
alcohols, amines, alkanolamines or polyols, or alternatively in the
form of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium salts or
alternatively in the form of salts of an organic base, for instance
the diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts.
[0167] The oligomers or polymers derived from succinic acid or
anhydride may be selected especially from the polyisobutylene
derivatives of succinic acid or anhydride described in U.S. Pat.
Nos. 4,234,435, 4,708,753, 5,129,972, 4,931,110, 4,919,179 and
GB-A-2156799. The polyisobutylene portion may be hydrogenated or
non-hydrogenated, with a molecular weight ranging from 400 to 5000.
In the succinic-terminated polyisobutylene thus obtained, the
succinic portion may be esterified, amidated or in salt form, i.e.,
it may be advantageously modified with alcohols, amines,
alkanolamines or polyols, or alternatively may be in the form of
alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium salts or
alternatively in the form of a salt of an organic base, for
instance the diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts. The
esterified or amidated succinic-terminated polyisobutylenes are
products of reaction of (a) a polyisobutylene containing succinic
end groups, and (b) an amine or an alcohol, to form an amide or an
ester. The term "amine" used herein includes all types of amines,
including alkanolamines. They may be, for example, primary,
secondary or tertiary monoamines, these amines possibly being
aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, aromatic or heterocyclic, and saturated
or unsaturated. Moreover, the alcohols may be monoalcohols or
polyalcohols. The monoalcohols comprise primary, secondary or
tertiary aliphatic alcohols, and phenols. The polyalcohols may be
selected, for example, from aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, aromatic and
heterocyclic polyalcohols. The modified (esterified or amidated)
succinic-terminated polyisobutylenes and the process for preparing
them are described in particular in U.S. Pat. No. 4,708,753.
[0168] Succinic-terminated polyisobutylenes that may especially be
mentioned include modified succinic-terminated polyisobutylenes,
such as the products marketed under the trademarks Lubrizol 5603
and Lubrizol 2650 by Lubrizol. According to one preferred
embodiment of the invention, the polymer marketed under the
trademark Lubrizol 5603 by Lubrizol, which is the
diethylethanolamine salt of esterified succinic-terminated
polyisobutylene (INCI name: Hydroxyethyldiethonium polyisobutenyl
triethylaminosuccinate/diethylethanolamine), is used.
[0169] Another example of a polyisobutylene derivative that may be
used in the invention is the product of reaction of maleic
anhydride with polyisobutylene, such as the product marketed under
the trademark Glissopal SA by BASF.
[0170] Stabilizers that may also be mentioned include (5) maleic
anhydride copolymers comprising one or more maleic anhydride
comonomers and one or more comonomers selected from among vinyl
acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins having from 2 to
20 carbon atoms and styrene, as described in EP-1374849.
[0171] According to the invention, the term "maleic anhydride
copolymer" means any polymer obtained by copolymerization of one or
more maleic anhydride comonomers and of one or more comonomers
selected from among vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone,
olefins having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, for instance octadecene,
ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene, isooctylene, and styrene, the
maleic anhydride comonomers being optionally partially or totally
hydrolysed. Preferably, hydrophilic polymers will be used, i.e.
polymers with a solubility in water of greater than or equal to 2
g/l.
[0172] Copolymers that are more particularly suitable for use in
the invention are copolymers obtained by copolymerization of one or
more maleic anhydride units, whose maleic anhydride units are in
hydrolyzed form, and preferentially in the form of alkaline salts,
for example in the form of ammonium, sodium, potassium or lithium
salts.
[0173] In one advantageous aspect of the invention, the copolymer
has a mole fraction of maleic anhydride units of from 0.1 to 1 and
more preferentially from 0.4 to 0.9.
[0174] According to one advantageous aspect of the invention, the
mole ratio from the maleic anhydride unit equivalent and the
oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active agent ranges from 0.005 to
10 and preferentially from 0.01 to 1.
[0175] The weight-average molar mass of the maleic anhydride
copolymers will advantageously be from 1,000 to 500,000 and
preferably from 1,000 to 50,000.
[0176] Preferentially, a copolymer of styrene and of maleic
anhydride in a 50/50 ratio will be used.
[0177] The styrene/maleic anhydride (50/50) copolymer, in the form
of the ammonium salt at 30% in water, marketed under the reference
SMA1000H.RTM. by Atofina, or the styrene/maleic anhydride (50/50)
copolymer, in the form of the sodium salt at 40% in water, marketed
under the reference SMA1000HNa.RTM. by Atofina, may be used, for
example.
[0178] Photoprotective Agents:
[0179] To improve the photostability of dehydroascorbic acid or of
a polymer thereof and/or that of ascorbic acid or a salt or
derivative thereof, the compositions in accordance with the
invention containing them may also include one or more
photoprotective agents.
[0180] The photoprotective agents in accordance with the invention
are selected from among UV-A-active and/or UV-B-active organic
and/or mineral UV-screening agents that are hydrophilic and/or
lipophilic and/or insoluble in the commonly used cosmetic
solvents.
[0181] The hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic
UV-screening agents are selected especially from anthranilates;
dibenzoylmethane derivatives; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic
derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives;
.beta.,.beta.-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives;
benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially
those cited in U.S. Pat. No. 5,624,663; benzimidazole derivatives;
imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives as described in EP-669323
and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA)
derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives
as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071, 5,166,355, GB-2303549,
DE-19726184 and EP-893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in
EP-0832642, EP-1027883, EP-1300137 and DE-10162844; screening
polymers and screening silicones such as those described especially
in WO 93/04665; .alpha.-alkylstyrene-based dimers, such as those
described in DE-19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those
described in EP-0967200, DE-19746654, DE-19755649, EP-A-1008586,
EP-1133980 and EP-133981, and mixtures thereof.
[0182] As examples of organic UV-screening agents, mention may be
made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:
[0183] Para-Aminobenzoic Acid Derivatives:
PABA,
Ethyl PABA,
[0184] Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA
marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by
ISP,
Glyceryl PABA,
[0185] PEG-25 PABA marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by
BASF.
[0186] Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives:
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane marketed especially under the
trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann LaRoche,
Isopropyldibenzoylmethane.
[0187] Salicylic Derivatives:
Homosalate marketed under the trademark "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM
Industries, Ethylhexyl salicylate marketed under the trademark "Neo
Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer, Dipropylene glycol salicylate
marketed under the trademark "Dipsal" by Scher, TEA salicylate
marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and
Reimer.
[0188] Cinnamic Derivatives:
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate marketed in particular under the
trademark "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann LaRoche, Isopropyl
methoxycinnamate, Isoamyl methoxycinnamate marketed under the
trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer,
Cinoxate,
[0189] DEA methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl methylcinnamate, Glyceryl
ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
[0190] .beta.,.beta.-Diphenylacrylate Derivatives:
Octocrylene marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul
N539" by BASF, Etocrylene marketed in particular under the
trademark "Uvinul N35" by BASF.
[0191] Benzophenone Derivatives:
Benzophenone-1 marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF,
Benzophenone-2 marketed under the trademark "Uvinul D50" by BASF,
Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone marketed under the trademark "Uvinul
M40" by BASF, Benzophenone-4 marketed under the trademark "Uvinul
MS40" by BASF,
Benzophenone-5,
[0192] Benzophenone-6 marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 11" by
Norquay, Benzophenone-8 marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb
UV-24" by American Cyanamid, Benzophenone-9 marketed under the
trademark "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF, Benzophenone-12 n-hexyl
2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate.
[0193] Benzylidenecamphor Derivatives:
3-Benzylidenecamphor manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD"
by Chimex, 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor marketed under the trademark
"Eusolex 6300" by Merck, Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid
manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex, Camphor
benzalkonium methosulfate manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl
SO" by Chimex, Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid manufactured
under the trademark "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex,
Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor manufactured under the
trademark "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex.
[0194] Phenylbenzimidazole Derivatives:
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid marketed in particular under the
trademark "Eusolex 232" by Merck, Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole
tetrasulfonate marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP" by
Haarmann and Reimer.
[0195] Phenylbenzotriazole Derivatives:
Drometrizole trisiloxane marketed under the trademark "Silatrizole"
by Rhodia Chimie,
Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol marketed in
solid form under the trademark "MIXXIM BB/100" by Fairmount
Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion under the
trademark "Tinosorb M" by Ciba Specialty Chemicals.
[0196] Triazine Derivatives:
bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the
trademark Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy, Ethylhexyl triazone marketed in
particular under the trademark Uvinul T150 by BASF, Diethylhexyl
butamido triazone marketed under the trademark Uvasorb HEB by Sigma
3V, 2,4,6-tris(Dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine the
symmetrical triazine screening agents described in U.S. Pat. No.
6,225,467, WO 2004/085 412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document
"Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC WEST
HENRIETTA, NY, US (20 Sep. 2004), especially
2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)-1,3,5-triazines (in particular
2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine) and
2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine which is also mentioned in WO
06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992
and WO 2006/034985.
[0197] Anthranilic Derivatives:
Menthyl anthranilate marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA"
by Haarmann and Reimer.
[0198] Imidazoline Derivatives:
Ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazoline propionate.
[0199] Benzalmalonate Derivatives:
Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate Polyorganosiloxane containing
benzalmalonate functions, for instance Polysilicone-15, marketed
under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann LaRoche
[0200] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene Derivatives:
1,1-Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene
[0201] Benzoxazole Derivatives:
2,4-bis[5-(1-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhex-
yl)imino-1,3,5-triazine marketed under the trademark Uvasorb K2A by
Sigma 3V, and mixtures thereof.
[0202] The preferential organic UV-screening agents are selected
from among: [0203] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, [0204] Homosalate,
[0205] Ethylhexyl salicylate, [0206] Octocrylene, [0207]
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, [0208] Benzophenone-3, [0209]
Benzophenone-4, [0210] Benzophenone-5, [0211] n-Hexyl
2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, [0212]
4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor, Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic
acid, [0213] Disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate, [0214]
Ethylhexyl triazone, [0215] bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl
triazine, [0216] Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, [0217]
2,4,6-tris(Dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, [0218]
2,4,6-tris(Diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, [0219]
2,4,6-tris(Biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine),
2,4,6-tris(Terphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine [0220]
Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, [0221]
Drometrizole trisiloxane, [0222] Polysilicone-15, [0223]
Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, [0224]
1,1-Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, [0225]
2,4-bis[5-1(Dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexy-
l)imino-1,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.
[0226] The inorganic screening agents are selected from among
pigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally from 5 nm
to 100 nm and preferably from 10 nm to 50 nm) of coated or uncoated
metal oxides, for instance nanopigments of titanium oxide
(amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form), of iron
oxide, of zinc oxide, of zirconium oxide or of cerium oxide, which
are all UV photoprotective agents that are well known per se.
[0227] The pigments may be coated or uncoated.
[0228] The coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or
more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical
and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example,
in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64,
such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic
surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum
salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or of aluminum),
polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin),
alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium
hexametaphosphate.
[0229] As is known, silicones are organosilicon polymers or
oligomers of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure,
of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or
polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consist
essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon
atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond),
optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly
attached via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms.
[0230] The term "silicones" also includes the silanes required for
their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes.
[0231] The silicones used for coating the pigments that are
suitable for the present invention are preferably selected from
among the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and
polyalkylhydrogenosiloxanes. Even more preferentially, the
silicones are selected from among the group containing
octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes and
polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes.
[0232] Needless to say, before being treated with silicones, the
metal oxide pigments may have been treated with other surface
agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum
compounds or silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
[0233] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides
that have been coated:
[0234] with silica, such as the product "Sunveil" by Ikeda,
[0235] with silica and iron oxide, such as the product "Sunveil F"
by Ikeda,
[0236] with silica and alumina, such as the products "Microtitanium
Dioxide MT 500 SA" and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA" by Tayca,
"Tioveil" by Tioxide and "Mirasun TiW 60" by Rhodia,
[0237] with alumina, such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (B)" and
"Tipaque TTO-55 (A)" by Ishihara and "UVT 14/4" by Kemira,
[0238] with alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the product
"Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z and MT-01 by
Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W" and "Solaveil CT 100" by
Uniqema, and the product "Eusolex T-AVO" by Merck,
[0239] with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product
"MT-100 AQ" by Tayca,
[0240] with alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product
"Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S" by Tayca,
[0241] with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product
"Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F" by Tayca,
[0242] with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product
"BR351" by Tayca,
[0243] with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as
the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS", "Microtitanium
Dioxide MT 500 SAS" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS" by
Tayca,
[0244] with silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with
a silicone, such as the product "STT-30-DS" by Titan Kogyo,
[0245] with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product
"UV-Titan X 195" by Kemira,
[0246] with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the
products "Tipaque TTO-55 (S)" by Ishihara or "UV Titan M 262" by
Kemira,
[0247] with triethanolamine, such as the product "STT-65-S" by
Titan Kogyo,
[0248] with stearic acid, such as the product "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)"
by Ishihara,
[0249] with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product
"Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W" by Tayca.
[0250] Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are
preferably TiO.sub.2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for
which the mean size of the elementary particles is from 25 to 40
nm, such as the product marketed under the trademark "T 805" by
Degussa Silices, TiO.sub.2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and
for which the mean size of the elementary particles is 21 nm, such
as the product marketed under the trademark "70250 Cardre UF
TiO.sub.2SI.sub.3" by Cardre, anatase/rutile TiO.sub.2 treated with
a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane and for which the mean size of the
elementary particles is 25 nm, such as the product marketed under
the trademark "Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic" by
Color Techniques.
[0251] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are marketed, for
example, by Tayca under the trademarks "Microtitanium Dioxide MT
500 B" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B", by Degussa under the
trademark "P 25", by Wackher under the trademark "Transparent
titanium oxide PW", by Myoshi Kasei under the trademark "UFTR", by
Tomen under the trademark "ITS" and by Tioxide under the trademark
"Tioveil AQ".
[0252] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0253] those marketed under the trademark "Z-Cote" by Sunsmart;
[0254] those marketed under the trademark "Nanox" by Elementis;
[0255] those marketed under the trademark "Nanogard WCD 2025" by
Nanophase Technologies.
[0256] The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0257] those marketed under the trademark "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by
Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
[0258] those marketed under the trademark "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN"
by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN,
C.sub.12-C.sub.15 alkyl benzoate);
[0259] those marketed under the trademark "Daitopersion ZN-30" and
"Daitopersion ZN-50" by Daito (dispersions in
cyclopolymethylsiloxane/oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane,
containing 30% or 50% of nanozinc oxides coated with silica and
polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
[0260] those marketed under the trademark "NFD Ultrafine ZNO" by
Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and copolymer
based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a dispersion in
cyclopentasiloxane);
[0261] those marketed under the trademark "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu
(ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in
cyclodimethylsiloxane);
[0262] those marketed under the trademark "Escalol Z100" by ISP
(alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl
methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene/methicone copolymer mixture);
[0263] those marketed under the trademark "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by Fuji
Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);
[0264] those marketed under the trademark "Nanox Gel TN" by
Elementis (ZnO dispersed at a concentration of 55% in
C.sub.12-C.sub.15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid
polycondensate).
[0265] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments are marketed under the
trademark "Colloidal Cerium Oxide" by Rhone-Poulenc.
[0266] The uncoated iron oxide nanopigments are marketed, for
example, by Arnaud under the trademarks "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE
45B)", "Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ", "Nanogard FE 45R AQ" and
"Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)" or by Mitsubishi under the trademark
"TY-220".
[0267] The coated iron oxide pigments are marketed, for example, by
Arnaud under the trademarks "Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)",
"Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "Nanogard FE 45 BL 345" and
"Nanogard FE 45 BL" or by BASF under the trademark "Transparent
Iron Oxide".
[0268] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides,
especially of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the
silica-coated equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and of
cerium dioxide, marketed by Ikeda under the trademark "Sunveil A",
and also the alumina, silica and silicone-coated mixture of
titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide, such as the product "M 261"
marketed by Kemira, or the alumina, silica and glycerol-coated
mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide, such as the
product "M 211" marketed by Kemira.
[0269] The photoprotective agents are generally present in the
compositions containing dehydroascorbic acid or a polymer thereof
and/or the compositions comprising ascorbic acid or a salt or
derivative thereof in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[0270] Additional Coloring Agents:
[0271] To nuance the color obtained via the various artificial
coloring processes as described previously and to better adapt it
to the various types of dark skin tone, the compositions containing
dehydroascorbic acid or a polymer thereof and/or the compositions
containing ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof may also comprise
one or more additional coloring agents.
[0272] The additional coloring agents may also be selected
especially from natural and synthetic direct dyes. They may be
organic or mineral dyes.
[0273] The natural or synthetic liposoluble organic dyes are, for
example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11,
DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (.beta.-carotene or
lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin or lutein), palm
oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
[0274] The natural or synthetic water-soluble dyes are, for
example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC
Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC
Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine,
copper-containing chlorophylline, methylene blue, anthocyanins
(enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus or elder) and riboflavin.
[0275] The dyes may also be selected from among anthraquinones,
caramel, carmine, carbon black, azulene blues, methoxalene,
trioxalene, guajazulene, chamuzulene, rose Bengal, cosine 10B,
cyanosin, daphinine, juglone, lawsone, extracts of fermented soya,
of algae, of fungi or of microorganisms, flavylium salts not
substituted in position 3, for instance those described in
EP-1172091, extracts of Gesneria fulgens, Blechum procerum or
Saxifraga and pigments that may be obtained by extraction with an
organic or aqueous-organic solvent of a culture medium of
micromycetes of the Monascus type.
[0276] These dyes may also be selected from among indole
derivatives, for instance the monohydroxyindoles as described in
FR-2651126 (i.e.: 4-, 5-, 6- or 7-hydroxyindole) or the
dihydroxyindoles as described in EP-B-0425324 (i.e.:
5,6-dihydroxyindole, 2-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole,
3-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole or
2,3-dimethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole).
[0277] These dyes may also be dyes obtained with compounds
comprising at least one aromatic ring containing at least two
hydroxyl groups (OH) borne by two consecutive carbon atoms of the
aromatic ring and a catalytic system comprising a first constituent
selected from among Mn(II) and/or Zn(II) salts and oxides, and
mixtures thereof, and a second constituent selected from among
alkali metal hydrogen carbonates, alkaline-earth metal hydrogen
carbonates, and mixtures thereof, as described previously.
[0278] The additional coloring agents may also be selected from
among particulate dyestuffs, which are preferably selected from
among pigments, nacres or interference pigments, and glitter
flakes.
[0279] The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or
colored, mineral or organic particles of any form, which are
insoluble in the physiological medium and are intended to color the
composition.
[0280] The pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or
organic. Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are
titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or
cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red)
oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue,
chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for instance
aluminum powder and copper powder.
[0281] Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon
black, pigments of D&C type and lakes based on cochineal
carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
[0282] Mention may also be made of pigments with an effect, such as
particles comprising a natural or synthetic, organic or mineral
substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester,
polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, the
said substrate optionally being coated with metallic substances
such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper or bronze, or
metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide or chromium
oxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0283] For the purposes of the present invention, the term
"interference particles or nacres" is any particle generally having
a multilayer structure such that it allows the creation of a color
effect by interference of light rays, which diffract and scatter
differently according to the nature of the layers. The coloring
effects obtained are associated with the lamellar structure of
these particles and are derived from the physical laws of thin film
optics (see: Pearl lustre pigments--physical principles,
properties, applications--R. Maisch, M. Weigand. Verlag Moderne
Industrie). Thus, these particles may have colors that vary
according to the angle of observation and the incidence of the
light.
[0284] For the purposes of the present invention, a multilayer
structure is intended to denote, without preference, a structure
formed from a substrate coated with a single layer, or a structure
formed from a substrate coated with at least two or even more
consecutive layers.
[0285] The multilayer structure may thus comprise one or even at
least two layers, each layer, independently or otherwise of the
other layer(s), being made of at least one material selected from
among the group consisting of the following materials: MgF.sub.2,
CeF.sub.3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO.sub.2, Ge, Te, Fe.sub.2O.sub.3, Pt,
Va, Al.sub.2O.sub.3, MgO, Y.sub.2O.sub.3, S.sub.2O.sub.3, SiO,
HfO.sub.2, ZrO.sub.2, CeO.sub.2, Nb.sub.2O.sub.5, Ta.sub.2O.sub.5,
TiO.sub.2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS.sub.2, cryolite,
alloys and polymers, and combinations thereof.
[0286] Generally, the multilayer structure is of mineral
nature.
[0287] More particularly, the interference particles under
consideration according to the invention may be interference
pigments, or alternatively natural or synthetic, monolayer or
multilayer nacres, in particular formed from a natural substrate
based, inter alia, on mica, which is covered with one or more
layers of metal oxide.
[0288] The interference particles according to the invention are
characterized in that 50% of the mass population has a diameter
(d50) of less than 40 .mu.m, more particularly less than 30 .mu.m,
especially less than 20 .mu.m and in particular less than 15 .mu.m,
measured with a laser granulometer, for instance the Mastersizer
2000.RTM. machine from Malvern or the B190+.RTM. machine from
Brookhaven Instrument Corporation.
[0289] Nacres of mica/tin oxide/titanium oxide type, for instance
those marketed under the trademarks Timiron Silk Blue.RTM., Timiron
Silk Red.RTM., Timiron Silk Green.RTM., Timiron Silk Gold.RTM. and
Timiron Super Silk.RTM. marketed by Merck, and mica/iron
oxide/titanium oxide nacres, for instance Flamenco Satin Blue.RTM.,
Flamenco Satin Red.RTM. and Flamenco Satin Violet.RTM. and Flamenco
Orange 320C marketed by Engelhard, and mixtures thereof, are most
particularly suitable for the invention.
[0290] It is understood that the choice of these interference
particles is made so as to be moreover compatible with the
requirements in terms of lightness and saturation required for the
compositions according to the invention. In general, these
interference particles are present in an amount sufficient to
obtain a homogeneous effect in terms of coloration while at the
same time preserving the natural flesh tone of the skin.
[0291] More specifically, these pigments may be present in amounts
ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably ranging from
0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0292] The additional coloring agents may also be selected from
among fluorescers.
[0293] The term "fluorescer" means a substance which, under the
effect of ultraviolet rays and/or visible light, re-emits in the
visible region the portion of light that it has absorbed under the
same color as that which it naturally reflects. The naturally
reflected color is thus reinforced by the re-emitted color and
appears extremely bright.
[0294] Examples that may be mentioned include colored polyamide
and/or formaldehyde/benzoguanamine and/or
melamine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide resins, from colored
aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensates and/or from
metallized polyester glitter flakes and/or mixtures thereof. These
fluorescent pigments may also be present in the form of aqueous
dispersions of fluorescent pigments.
[0295] Mention may also be made of the pink-colored fluorescent
aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensate with a mean
particle size of 3-4 microns marketed under the trademark Fiesta
Astral Pink FEX-1 and the blue-colored fluorescent
aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensate with a mean
particle size of 3-4.5 microns marketed under the trademark Fiesta
Comet Blue FTX-60 by Swada, or alternatively the yellow-colored
benzoguanamine/formaldehyde resin covered with formaldehyde/urea
resin marketed under the trademark FB-205 Yellow and the
red-colored benzoguanamine/formaldehyde resin covered with
formaldehyde/urea resin marketed under the trademark FB-400 Orange
Red by UK Seung Chemical, and the orange-colored polyamide resin
marketed under the trademark Flare 911 Orange 4 by Sterling
Industrial Colors.
[0296] The fluorescent substances are preferably present in the
composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from
0.1% to 15% to more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
[0297] When the organic fluorescent substances are white, they are
also known as optical brighteners.
[0298] The optical brightener has the effect of intensifying the
radiance and reviving the shades of cosmetic compositions
comprising them on application to the skin.
[0299] Among the optical brighteners that may be mentioned more
particularly are stilbene derivatives, in particular
polystyrylstilbenes and triazinestilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in
particular hydroxycoumarins and aminocoumarins, oxazole,
benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, pyrene
derivatives and porphyrin derivatives, and/or mixtures thereof.
[0300] Such compounds are available, for example, under the
trademarks Tinopal SOP.RTM. and Uvitex OB.RTM. by Ciba Geigy.
[0301] The optical brighteners preferentially used are sodium
4,4'-bis[(4,6-dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene-2,2'-disulfonat-
e, 2,5-thiophenediylbis(5-tert-butyl-1,3-benzoxazole) and disodium
4,4'-distyrylbiphenylsulfonate, and/or mixtures thereof.
[0302] Fillers:
[0303] The compositions of the invention may comprise at least one
filler.
[0304] The term "fillers" should be understood as meaning colorless
or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any form, which are
insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the
temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers
serve especially to modify the rheology or the texture of the
composition.
[0305] The fillers may be mineral or organic and of any form,
platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the
crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal,
orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica,
kaolin, polyamide (Nylon.RTM.) powder (Orgasol.RTM. from Atochem),
poly-.beta.-alanine powder and polyethylene powder,
tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon.RTM.) powder, lauroyllysine,
starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as
polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile microspheres, for instance
Expancel.RTM. (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer
microspheres (Polytrap.RTM. by Dow Corning) and silicone resin
microbeads (for example Tospearls.RTM. from Toshiba), elastomeric
polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate,
magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite,
hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads.RTM. from Maprecos), glass
or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic
carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably
from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium
stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium
myristate.
[0306] The compositions according to the invention comprising
dehydroascorbic acid or a monomeric or dimeric derivative thereof
and/or ascorbic acid may in particular comprise at least one
matting filler, a soft-focus filler, a fluorescer, an abrasive or
exfoliant filler, and mixtures thereof.
[0307] Matting Fillers:
[0308] For the purposes of the invention, the term "matting filler"
is a spherical or non-spherical, porous or non-porous particle with
a refractive index of less than or equal to 2.2, especially less
than or equal to 2 and in particular less than or equal to 1.8,
preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1.6. The "matting fillers" according
to the invention have a volume size comparable to that of the
nacres used. The preferred size of the fillers is thus less than 15
.mu.m measured with a laser granulometer, for instance the
Mastersizer 2000.RTM. from Malvern or the BI90+from Brookhaven
Instrument Corporation.
[0309] In one preferential embodiment of the invention, the
"matting fillers" are spherical.
[0310] In another preferential embodiment of the invention, the
"matting fillers" are porous. In this case, the specific surface
area of the particles, which may be related to the porosity, is
greater than 10 m.sup.2/g and preferably greater than 50
m.sup.2/g.
[0311] Matting Test:
[0312] The matting nature of the fillers according to the invention
is defined by means of a gonioreflectometer measurement. To do
this, the composition containing 5% fillers is spread onto a
contrast card (Prufkarte type 24/5-250 cm2 marketed by Erichsen)
using a mechanical film spreader (wet thickness of 30 .mu.m). The
composition is then dried overnight at a temperature of 37.degree.
C., and the reflection is then measured using a gonioreflectometer.
The result obtained is the ratio R from the specular reflection and
the diffuse reflection. The value of R is proportionately smaller
the greater the matting effect. The matting fillers according to
the invention are those which, at a content of 5% in a cosmetic
composition, give a value of R of less than 1 and preferably less
than 0.75.
[0313] The matting effect of the agent and/or composition
containing it may especially be evaluated using a
gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R from the specular
reflection and the scattered reflection. A value of R of less than
or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.
[0314] The matting filler may especially be selected from among a
rice starch or a corn starch, kaolinite, talc, a pumpkin seed
extract, cellulose microbeads, plant fibers, synthetic fibers, in
particular polyamide fibers, expanded acrylic copolymer
microspheres, polyamide powders, silica powders,
polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic
polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, powders of
elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane coated with silicone
resin, talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/silica composite powders,
amorphous mixed silicate powders, silicate particles and especially
mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.
[0315] The matting agent may especially be selected from among a
rice starch or a corn starch, kaolinite, talc, a pumpkin seed
extract, cellulose microbeads, plant fibers, synthetic fibers, in
particular polyamide fibers, expanded acrylic copolymer
microspheres, polyamide powders, silica powders,
polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic
polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, powders of
elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane coated with silicone
resin, talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/silica composite powders,
amorphous mixed silicate powders, silicate particles and especially
mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.
[0316] Examples of matting agents that may especially be mentioned
include:
[0317] rice or corn starch, in particular an aluminum starch
octenyl succinate marketed under the trademark Dry Floe by National
Starch;
[0318] kaolinite;
[0319] silicas;
[0320] talc;
[0321] a pumpkin seed extract as marketed under the trademark
Curbilene.RTM. by Indena;
[0322] cellulose microbeads as described in EP-1562562;
[0323] fibers, such as silk fiber, cotton fiber, wool fiber, flax
fiber, cellulose fiber extracted especially from wood, from
vegetables or from algae, polyamide fiber (Nylon.RTM.), modified
cellulose fiber, poly-p-phenyleneterephthamide fiber, acrylic
fiber, polyolefin fiber, glass fiber, silica fiber, aramid fiber,
carbon fiber, Teflon.RTM. fiber, insoluble collagen fiber,
polyester fiber, polyvinyl chloride or polyvinylidene chloride
fiber, polyvinyl alcohol fiber, polyacrylonitrile fiber, chitosan
fiber, polyurethane fiber, polyethylene phthalate fiber, fibers
formed from a mixture of polymers, resorbable synthetic fibers, and
mixtures thereof described in EP-1,151742;
[0324] expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres such as those
marketed by EXPANCEL under the trademark Expancel 551.RTM.;
[0325] fillers with an optical effect as described in FR-2869796,
in particular:
[0326] polyamide powders (Nylon.RTM.), for instance Nylon 12
particles of the Orgasol type from Arkema, with a mean size of 10
microns and a refractive index of 1.54,
[0327] silica powders, for instance Silica beads SB150 from Miyoshi
with a mean size of 5 microns and a refractive index of 1.45,
[0328] polytetrafluoroethylene powders, for instance PTFE Ceridust
9205F from Clariant, with a mean size of 8 microns and a refractive
index of 1.36,
[0329] silicone resin powders, for instance the silicone resin
Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone with a mean size of 4.5 microns and
a refractive index of 1.41,
[0330] acrylic copolymer powders, especially of
polymethyl(meth)acrylate, for instance the PMMA particles Jurymer
MBI from Nihon Junyoki, with a mean size of 8 microns and a
refractive index of 1.49, or the Micropearl M1000 and F 80 ED.RTM.
particles by Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku,
[0331] wax powders, for instance the paraffin wax particles
Microease 114S from Micropowders, with a mean size of 7 microns and
a refractive index of 1.54,
[0332] polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one
ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of
ethylene/acrylic acid copolymers, for instance the particles
Flobeads EA 209 from Sumitomo (with a mean size of 10 microns and a
refractive index of 1.48),
[0333] elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated
with silicone resin, especially with silsesquioxane resin, as
described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such
elastomeric powders are marketed under the trademarks KSP-100,
KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by Shin-Etsu,
and
[0334] talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/silica composite powders such
as those marketed under the trademark Coverleaf.RTM. AR-80 by
Catalyst & Chemicals, and mixtures thereof,
[0335] compounds that absorb and/or adsorb sebum as described in
FR-2869796. Mention may be made especially of:
[0336] silica powders, for instance the porous silica microspheres
marketed under the trademark Silica Beads SB-700 marketed by
Myoshi, the products Sunsphere.RTM. H51, Sunsphere.RTM. H33 and
Sunsphere.RTM. H53 marketed by Asahi Glass; the
polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres marketed
under the trademark SA Sunsphere.RTM. H-33 and SA Sunsphere.RTM.
H-53 marketed by Asahi Glass;
[0337] amorphous mixed silicate powders, especially of aluminum and
magnesium, for instance the product marketed under the trademark
Neusilin UFL2 by Sumitomo;
[0338] polyamide (Nylon.RTM.) powders, for instance Orgasol.RTM.
4000 marketed by Arkema, and
[0339] acrylic polymer powders, especially of polymethyl
methacrylate, for instance Covabead.RTM. LH85 marketed by Wackherr;
of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, for
instance Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge.RTM. Skin Oil Adsorber
marketed by Dow Corning, or Ganzpearl.RTM. GMP-0820 marketed by
Ganz Chemical; of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol
dimethacrylate, for instance Poly-Pore.RTM. L200 or Poly-Pore.RTM.
E200 marketed by Amcol; of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl
methacrylate copolymer, for instance Polytrap.RTM. 6603 marketed by
Dow Corning;
[0340] silicate particles, such as alumina silicate;
[0341] mixed silicate particles, such as:
[0342] magnesium aluminum silicate particles, such as saponite or
hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate with a sodium sulfate marketed
under the trademark Sumecton.RTM. by Kunimine;
[0343] the magnesium silicate, hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin
oil, marrow oil and phospholipids complex or Matipure.RTM. from
Lucas Meyer, and mixtures thereof.
[0344] Preferred matting agents that may be used according to the
invention include a pumpkin seed extract, a rice or corn starch,
kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders,
acrylic copolymer powders, expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres,
silicone resin microbeads and mixed silicate particles, and
mixtures thereof.
[0345] Fillers with a Soft Focus Effect:
[0346] These fillers may be any material capable of modifying and
hiding wrinkles by virtue of their intrinsic physical properties.
These fillers may especially modify wrinkles via a tensioning
effect, a covering effect or a soft-focus effect.
[0347] Examples of fillers that may be given include the following
compounds:
[0348] porous silica microparticles, for instance the Silica
Beads.RTM. SB150 and SB700 from Miyoshi with a mean size of 5
.mu.m; the series-H Sunspheres.RTM. from Asahi Glass, for instance
Sunspheres H33, H51 with respective sizes of 3.5 and 5 .mu.m;
[0349] hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles such as NLK
500.RTM., NLK 506.RTM. and NLK 510.RTM. from Takemoto Oil and Fat,
especially described in EP-A-1 579 849;
[0350] silicone resin powders, for instance the silicone resin
Tospearl.RTM. 145A from GE Silicone, with a mean size of 4.5
.mu.m;
[0351] acrylic copolymer powders, especially of polymethyl
(meth)acrylate, for instance the PMMA particles Jurymer MBI.RTM.
from Nihon Junyoki, with a mean size of 8 .mu.m, the hollow PMMA
spheres marketed under the trademark Covabead.RTM. LH85 by
Wackherr, and vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate
expanded microspheres marketed under the trademark
Expancel.RTM.;
[0352] wax powders, for instance the paraffin wax particles
MicroEase.RTM. 114S from MicroPowders, with a mean size of 7
.mu.m;
[0353] polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one
ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer for instance the Flobeads.RTM. EA
209 E from Sumitomo, with a mean size of 10 .mu.m;
[0354] crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated
with silicone resin and especially with silsesquioxane resin, under
the trademarks KSP-100.RTM., KSP-101.RTM., KSP-102.RTM.,
KSP-103.RTM., KSP-104.RTM. and KSP-105.RTM. by Shin-Etsu;
[0355] talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/silica composite powders, for
instance those marketed under the trademark Coverleaf AR-80.RTM. by
Catalyst & Chemicals;
[0356] talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders
crosslinked with octenyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride,
polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate,
magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, barium sulfate,
hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or
ceramic microcapsules;
[0357] hydrophilic or hydrophobic, synthetic or natural, mineral or
organic fibers such as silk fibers, cotton fibers, wool fibers,
flax fibers, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood,
vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon.RTM.) fibers, modified
cellulose fibers, poly-p-phenyleneterephthamide fibers, acrylic
fibers, polyolefin fibers, glass fibers, silica fibers, aramid
fibers, carbon fibers, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon.RTM.)
fibers, insoluble collagen fibers, polyester fibers, polyvinyl
chloride fibers, polyvinylidene chloride fibers, polyvinyl alcohol
fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers, chitosan fibers, polyurethane
fibers, polyethylene phthalate fibers, fibers formed from a mixture
of polymers, resorbable synthetic fibers, and mixtures thereof
described in EP-1151742;
[0358] spherical elastomeric crosslinked silicones, for instance
Trefil E-505C.RTM. or E-506C.RTM. from Dow Corning;
[0359] abrasive fillers, which, via a mechanical effect, smooth out
the skin microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for instance Abrasif
SP.RTM. from Semanez or nutshell powders (for example of apricot or
walnut, from Cosmetochem).
[0360] The fillers with an effect on the signs of aging are
especially selected from among porous silica microparticles, hollow
hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic
copolymer powders, polyethylene powders, crosslinked elastomeric
organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin,
talc/titanium dioxide/alumina/silica composite powders,
precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium
hydrogen carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium
silicate, cerium dioxide, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and silk
fibers or cotton fibers, and mixtures thereof.
[0361] The filler may be a soft-focus filler.
[0362] The term "soft-focus" filler means a filler which in
addition gives the complexion transparency and a hazy effect.
Preferably, the soft-focus fillers have a mean particle size of
less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles may be in any
form and in particular may be spherical or non-spherical. These
fillers are more preferably non-spherical.
[0363] The soft-focus fillers may be selected from among silica and
silicate powders, especially alumina powder, powders of polymethyl
methacrylate (PMMA) type, talc, silica/TiO.sub.2 or silica/zinc
oxide composites, polyethylene powders, starch powders, polyamide
powders, styrene/acrylic copolymer powders and silicone elastomers,
and mixtures thereof.
[0364] Mention may be made in particular of talc with a
number-average size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example
talc with a number-average size of 1.8 microns and especially the
product marketed under the trademark Talc P3.RTM. by Nippon Talc,
Nylon.RTM. 12 powder, especially the product marketed under the
trademark Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos.RTM. by Atochem, silica
particles 1% to 2% surface-treated with a mineral wax (INCI name:
hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as the products marketed by
Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as the products
marketed under the trademark Sunsphere, for example of reference
H-53.RTM. by Asahi Glass, and silica microbeads such as those
marketed under the trademark SB-700.RTM. or SB-150.RTM. by Miyoshi,
this list not being limiting.
[0365] The concentration of these fillers with an effect on the
signs of aging in the compositions according to the invention may
be from 0.1% to 40%, or even from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
[0366] Abrasive Fillers or Exfoliants:
[0367] As exfoliants that may be used in rinse-out compositions
according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include
exfoliants or scrubbing particles of mineral, plant or organic
origin. Thus, polyethylene beads or powder, Nylon powder, polyvinyl
chloride powder, pumice powder, ground apricot kernel or walnut
husk, sawdust, glass beads and alumina, and mixtures thereof, may
be used, for example.
[0368] Mention may also be made of Exfogreen.RTM. from Solabia
(bamboo extract), extracts of strawberry akenes (Strawberry Akenes
from Greentech), peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, and
finally, in the field of plant powders with an abrasive effect,
mention may be made of cranberry kernel powder.
[0369] As abrasive fillers or exfoliants that are preferred
according to the invention, mention will be made of peach kernel
powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry
akene extracts and bamboo extracts.
[0370] The additional filler(s) used in the compositions according
to the invention may represent preferably from 0.01% to 20% by
weight and better still from 0.1% to 15%, and even better still,
from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0371] Cosmetic or Dermatological Active Agents:
[0372] The compositions according to the invention may also
comprise one or more additional cosmetic or dermatological active
agents.
[0373] The additional active agents may be selected especially from
moisturizers, desquamating agents, agents for improving the barrier
function, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermo-decontracting
agents, anti-glycation agents, agents for stimulating the synthesis
of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing
their degradation, agents for stimulating fibroblast or
keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation,
agents for promoting the maturation of the horny envelope,
NO-synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR)
antagonists, agents for increasing the activity of the sebaceous
glands, agents for stimulating the energy metabolism of cells,
tensioning agents, lipo-restructuring agents, slimming agents,
agents for promoting the cutaneous capillary circulation,
calmatives and/or anti-irritants, sebo-regulators or
anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringents, cicatrizing agents,
anti-inflammatory agents and antiacne agents.
[0374] One skilled in the art will select the said active agent(s)
as a function of the effect desired on the skin, the lips, the
nails, the eyelashes or the eyebrows.
[0375] Needless to say, one skilled in the art will take care to
select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the
amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the
corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or
are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged
addition.
[0376] For caring for and/or making up aged skin, he will
preferably choose at least one active agent selected from among
moisturizers, desquamating agents, agents for improving the barrier
function, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermo-decontracting
agents, anti-glycation agents, agents for stimulating the synthesis
of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing
their degradation, agents for stimulating fibroblast or
keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation,
agents for promoting the maturation of the horny envelope,
NO-synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR)
antagonists, agents for increasing the activity of the sebaceous
glands, agents for stimulating the energy metabolism of cells,
lipo-restructuring agents, and agents for promoting the cutaneous
capillary circulation for the area around the eyes.
[0377] For caring for and/or making up greasy skin, one skilled in
the art will preferably choose at least one active agent selected
from among desquamating agents, sebo-regulating agents or
anti-seborrhoeic agents, and astringents.
[0378] At least one active agent selected from among anti-acne
agents, cicatrizing agents and anti-inflammatory agents will
preferably be selected for caring for and/or making up acne-prone
skin.
[0379] For slimming care of the body, he will preferably choose an
active agent selected from among slimming active agents and active
agents for promoting the cutaneous capillary circulation.
[0380] Examples of such compounds are described below.
[0381] Moisturizers or Humectants:
[0382] Moisturizers or humectants that may especially be mentioned
include glycerol and derivatives thereof, urea and derivatives
thereof, especially Hydrovance.RTM. marketed by National Starch,
lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate, xylitol,
serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and derivatives thereof, chitosan
and derivatives thereof, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata
cylindra marketed under the trademark Moist 24.RTM. by Sederma,
acrylic acid homopolymers, for instance Lipidure-HM.RTM. from NOF
Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl
beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of
passionflower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil marketed
by Nestle under the trademark NutraLipids.RTM.; a C-glycoside
derivative such as those described in WO 02/051828 and in
particular C-.beta.-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form
of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a
water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the
product marketed by Chimex under the trademark Mexoryl SBB.RTM.; an
oil of musk rose marketed by Nestle; an extract of the microalga
Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, marketed by Vincience
under the trademark Algualane Zinc.RTM.; spheres of collagen and of
chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Atelocollagen) marketed by
Engelhard Lyon under the trademark Marine Filling Spheres;
hyaluronic acid spheres such as those marketed by Engelhard
Lyon.
[0383] The moisturizer that will preferably be used is selected
from among urea and derivatives thereof, especially Hydrovance.RTM.
marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, acrylic
acid homopolymers, for instance Lipidure-HM.RTM. from NOF
Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl
beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of
passionflower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil marketed
by Nestleunder the trademark NutraLipids.RTM.; a C-glycoside
derivative such as those described in WO 02/051828 and in
particular C-.beta.-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form
of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a
water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the
product marketed by Chimex under the trademark Mexoryl SBB.RTM.; an
oil of musk rose marketed by Nestle; an extract of the microalga
Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, marketed by Vincience
under the trademark Algualane Zinc.RTM.; spheres of collagen and of
chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Atelocollagen) marketed by
Engelhard Lyon under the trademark Marine Filling Spheres;
hyaluronic acid spheres such as those marketed by Engelhard
Lyon.
[0384] Desquamating Agents:
[0385] The term "desquamating agent" means any compound capable of
acting:
[0386] either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation,
such as .beta.-hydroxy acids (BHAs), in particular salicylic acid
and derivatives thereof (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, also
known as capryloyl salicylic acid as the INCI name);
.alpha.-hydroxy acids (ANAs), such as glycolic acid, citric acid,
lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid;
8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecenedioic acid; urea
and derivatives thereof; gentisic acid and derivatives thereof;
oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol,
and certain japonica acid derivatives;
[0387] or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or
degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum
chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or other proteases (trypsin,
chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds
and in particular 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazine-1-propanesulfonic
acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and
derivatives thereof; derivatives of .alpha.-amino acids of glycine
type (as described in EP-0852949, and also sodium methyl glycine
diacetate marketed by BASF under the trademark Trilon M); honey;
sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and
N-acetylglucosamine.
[0388] As other desquamating agents that may be used in the
composition according to the invention, mention may be made of:
[0389] oligofructoses, EDTA and derivatives thereof, laminaria
extracts, O-linoleyl-6D-glucose,
(3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid, glycerol trilactate,
O-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S-carboxymethylcysteine, siliceous
derivatives of salicylate such as those described in EP-0796861,
oligofucases such as those described in EP-0218200, 5-acyl
salicylic acid salts, active agents with effects on
transglutaminase, as in EP-0899330, extract of the flowers of ficus
Opuntia indica (Exfolactive.RTM. from Silab),
8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, esters of glucose and of
vitamin F, and mixtures thereof.
[0390] Preferred desquamating agents that may be mentioned include
.beta.-hydroxy acids such as 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid; urea;
glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid
or mandelic acid; 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazine-1-propanesulfonic
acid (HEPES); extract of Saphora japonica; honey; N-acetyl
glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures
thereof.
[0391] Even more preferentially, a desquamating agent selected from
among 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid; urea;
4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES);
extract of Saphora japonica; honey; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium
methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof, will be used in the
compositions of the invention.
[0392] Agents for Improving the Barrier Function:
[0393] As agents for improving the barrier function, mention may be
made especially of arginine, serine, an extract of Thermus
thermophilus such as Venuceane.RTM. from Sederma, an extract of the
rhizome of wild yam (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y.RTM. from
Active Organics, plankton extracts, for instance Omega
Plankton.RTM. from Secma, yeast extracts, for instance
Relipidium.RTM. from Coletica, a chestnut extract such as
Recoverine.RTM. from Silab, a cedar bud extract such as Gatuline
Zen.RTM. from Gattefosse, sphingosines, for instance salicyloyl
sphingosine marketed under the trademark Phytosphingosine.RTM. SLC
by Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, polyxylityl glycoside and
xylitan, for instance Aquaxyl.RTM. from SEPPIC, extracts of
Solanacea plants, for instance Lipidessence.RTM. from Coletica,
omega-3 unsaturated oils such as musk rose oils, and mixtures
thereof.
[0394] Mention may also be made especially of ceramides or
derivatives thereof, in particular ceramides of type 2 (for
instance N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine), of type 3 (for instance
stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine, as the INCI name) and of type 5 (for
instance N-2-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, having the INCI
name: hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine), sphingoid-based compounds,
glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and derivatives
thereof, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol,
4-chromanone and chromone derivatives, petroleum jelly, lanolin,
shea butter, cocoa butter and PCA salts.
[0395] As preferred agents having a restructuring effect on the
barrier function, mention will be made of an extract of Thermus
thermophilus, an extract of wild yam rhizome (Dioscorea villosa), a
yeast extract, a chestnut extract, a cedar bud extract, arginine,
serine, ceramides especially of type 3 and 5; and mixtures
thereof.
[0396] Serine, arginine or a mixture thereof will preferably be
used.
[0397] Depigmenting Agents:
[0398] Depigmenting agents that may especially be mentioned include
alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and derivatives
thereof, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, tranexamic
acid and derivatives thereof, gentisic acid, homogentisate, methyl
gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, calcium D-pantheteine
sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and
derivatives thereof, ceramides and homologues thereof, plant
derivatives, for instance camomile, bearberry, the aloe family
(vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry or skullcap; a kiwi fruit
(Actinidia chinensis) juice marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of
Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product marketed by Ichimaru
Pharcos under the trademark Botanpi Liquid B.RTM., an extract of
brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum), such as the extract of
molasses marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the trademark Molasses
Liquid, without this list being exhaustive.
[0399] Preferred depigmenting agents that will be used include
alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and
derivatives thereof, calcium D-pantheteine sulfonate, lipoic acid,
ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) juice
marketed by Gattefosse, and an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa
root, such as the product marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the
trademark Botanpi Liquid B.RTM..
[0400] Antioxidants:
[0401] Mention may be made especially of tocopherol and esters
thereof, in particular tocopheryl acetate; ferulic acid; serine;
ellagic acid, phloretin, polyphenols, tannins, tannic acid,
epigallocatechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyans,
rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, for instance those by
Silab, green tea extracts, resveratrol and derivatives thereof,
ergothioneine, N-acetylcysteine, an extract of the brown alga
Pelvetia caniculata, for instance Pelvetiane.RTM. from Secma,
chlorogenic acid, biotin, chelating agents, such as BHT and BHA,
N,N'-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine and salts thereof;
idebenone, plant extracts, for instance Pronalen Bioprotect.TM. by
Provital; coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SODs, phytanetriol, lignans,
melatonin, pidolates, glutathione, caprylyl glycol, Totarol.TM. or
extract of Podocarpus totara containing Totarol
(totara-8,11,13-trienol or 2-phenanthrenol,
4b,5,6,7,8,8a,9,10-octahydro-4-b,8,8-trimethyl-1-(1-methylethyl)-;
a jasmine extract such as the product marketed by Silab under the
trademark Helisun.RTM.; hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum
PEG.RTM. by Engelhard Lyon; an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa
root, such as the product marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the
trademark Botanpi Liquid B.RTM.; an extract of lychee such as the
extract of lychee pericarp marketed by Cognis under the trademark
Litchiderm LS 9704.RTM., an extract of pomegranate fruit (Punica
granatum), such as the product marketed by Draco Natural
Products.
[0402] Other anti-aging agents that may be mentioned include DHEA
and derivatives thereof, boswellic acid, rosemary extracts,
carotenoids (.beta.-carotene, zeaxanthin and lutein), cysteic acid,
copper derivatives and jasmonic acid.
[0403] Preferred antioxidants that will especially be used include
ferulic acid; serine; phloretin, an extract of pomegranate, biotin,
chelating agents such as BHT, BHA,
N,N'-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine and salts thereof,
caprylyl glycol, Totarol.TM., a jasmine extract such as the product
marketed by Silab under the trademark Helisun.RTM.; hesperitin
laurate such as Flavagrum PEG.RTM. by Engelhard Lyon; an extract of
Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product marketed by Ichimaru
Pharcos under the trademark Botanpi Liquid B.RTM..
[0404] Dermo-relaxing or dermo-decontracting agents:
[0405] Examples that may be mentioned include manganese gluconate
and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and salts thereof,
glycine, an extract of Iris pallida, a hexapeptide (Argeriline R
from Lipotec) or sapogenins, for instance wild yam and the carbonyl
amines described in EP-1484052. Examples of sapogenins that may be
mentioned include those described in WO 02/47650, in particular
wild yam, the diosgenin extracted especially from Dioscorea
opposita or any extract naturally containing or containing after
treatment one or more sapogenins (wild yam rhizome, agave leaf,
which contains hecogenin and tigogenin, extracts of Liliacea plants
and more particularly yucca or smilax containing smilagenin and
sarsapogenin, or sarsaparilla) or Actigen Y by Actives Organics, or
ginger.
[0406] Mention may also be made of DMAE (dimethyl MEA), extracts of
sea fennel, of rockrose, of helichrysum, of aniseed, of paracress,
and an extract of Acmella oleracea, for instance Gatuline.RTM. from
Gattefosse.
[0407] Preferred dermo-relaxing agents that will be mentioned
include adenosine, manganese gluconate, wild yam, sea fennel,
glycine and alverine.
[0408] Anti-Glycation Agents:
[0409] The term "anti-glycation agent" means a compound that
prevents and/or reduces the glycation of skin proteins, in
particular dermal proteins such as collagen.
[0410] Anti-glycation agents that may especially be mentioned
include extracts of plants of the Ericacea family, such as an
extract of blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium or Vaccinium
myrtillus), for example the product marketed under the trademark
Blueberry Herbasol Extract PG by Cosmetochem, ergothioneine and
derivatives thereof, hydroxystilbenes and derivatives thereof, such
as resveratrol and 3,3',5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these
anti-glycation agents are described in FR-2802425, FR-2810548,
FR-2796278 and FR-2802420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and
derivatives thereof, polypeptides of arginine and of lysine such as
the product marketed under the trademark Amadorine.RTM. by Solabia,
carsinine hydrochloride (marketed by Exsymol under the trademark
Alistin.RTM.), an extract of Helianthus annuus, for instance
Antiglyskin.RTM. from Silab, wine extracts such as the extract of
powdered white wine on a maltodextrin support marketed under the
trademark Vin blanc deshydrate 2F by Givaudan, thioctic acid (or
alpha-lipoic acid), a mixture of extract of bearberry and of marine
glycogen, for instance Aglycal LS 8777.RTM. from Laboratoires
Serobiologiques, and an extract of black tea, for instance
Kombuchka.RTM. from Sederma, and mixtures thereof.
[0411] Preferred anti-glycation agents that will be mentioned
include extracts of blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) and extracts of
black tea.
[0412] Agents for Stimulating the Synthesis of Dermal and/or
Epidermal Macromolecules and/or for Preventing their
Degradation:
[0413] Among the active agents for stimulating the dermal
macromolecules or for preventing their degradation, mention may be
made of those acting:
[0414] either on collagen synthesis, such as extracts of Centella
asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives thereof; ascorbic acid or
vitamin C and derivatives thereof; synthetic peptides such as
iamin, biopeptide CL or palmitoyl oligopeptide marketed by Sederma;
peptides extracted from plants, such as the soybean hydrolysate
marketed by Coletica under the trademark Phytokine.RTM.; rice
peptides such as Nutripeptide.RTM. from Silab, methylsilanol
mannuronate such as Algisium C.RTM. marketed by Exsymol; plant
hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of
Medicago sativa (alfalfa) such as the product marketed by Silab
under the trademark Vitanol.RTM.; a peptide extract of hazelnut
such as the product marketed by Solabia under the trademark
Nuteline C.RTM.; and arginine; or on the inhibition of collagen
degradation, in particular agents acting on the inhibition of
metalloproteases (MMP) more particularly such as MMP 1, 2, 3 and 9.
Mention may be made of: retinoids and derivatives, extracts of
Medicago sativa such as Vitanol.RTM. from Silab, an extract of
Aphanizomenon flos-aquae (Cyanophyceae) marketed under the
trademark Lanablue.RTM. by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides
and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, the malt extract marketed by
Coletica under the trademark Collalift.RTM.; blueberry or rosemary
extracts; lycopene; isoflavones, derivatives thereof or plant
extracts containing them, in particular extracts of soybean
(marketed, for example, by Ichimaru Pharcos under the trademark
Flavosterone SB.RTM.), of red clover, of flax or of kakkon; an
extract of lychee such as the extract of lychee pericarp marketed
by Cognis under the trademark Litchiderm LS 97040; Dipalmitoyl
Hydroxyproline marketed by SEPPIC under the trademark Sepilift
DPHP.RTM.: Baccharis genistelloides or Baccharine marketed by
Silab, an extract of moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781.RTM. from
Cognis; the sage extract described in FR-A-2812544 from the
Labiatae family (Salvia officinalis by Flacksmann), an extract of
rhododendron, a blueberry extract, and an extract of Vaccinium
myrtillus such as those described in FR-A-2814950;
[0415] or on the synthesis of molecules belonging to the elastin
family (elastin and fibrillin), such as: retinol and derivatives,
in particular retinyl palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces
cerevisiae marketed by LSN under the trademark Cytovitin.RTM.; and
the extract of the alga Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by Secma
under the trademark Kelpadelie.RTM.; a peptide extract of hazelnut
such as the product marketed by Solabia under the trademark
Nuteline C.RTM.;
[0416] or on inhibition of elastin degradation, such as the peptide
extract of seeds of Pisum sativum marketed by LSN under the
trademark Parelastyl.RTM.;
[0417] heparinoids; and the N-acylamino acid compounds described in
WO 01/94381, such as
{2-[acetyl(3-trifluoromethylphenyl)amino]-3-methylbutyrylamino}acetic
acid, also known as N--[N-acetyl,
N'-(3-trifluoromethyl)phenylvalyl]glycine, or
N-acetyl-N-[3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl]valylglycine or acetyl
trifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine, or an ester thereof with a
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alcohol; an extract of rice peptides such as
Colhibin.RTM. from Pentapharm, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica
such as Emblica.RTM. from Rona;
[0418] or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the
product of fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus vulgaris,
marketed by Brooks under the trademark Biomin Yoghurt.RTM.; the
extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by Alban Muller
under the trademark HSP3.RTM.; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract
available especially by Silab under the trademark Firmalift.RTM. or
by LSN under the trademark Cytovitin.RTM.; an extract of Laminaria
ochroleuca such as Laminaine.RTM. from Secma; essence of Mamaku
from Lucas Meyer, and an extract of Cress (Odraline.RTM. from
Silab);
[0419] or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as the extract of
the zooplankton Salina marketed by Seporga under the trademark
GP4G.RTM.; the yeast extract available especially by Alban Muller
under the trademark Drieline.RTM.; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide
marketed by Sederma under the trademark Matrixyl.RTM..
[0420] Among the active agents for stimulating epidermal
macromolecules, such as fillagrin and keratins, mention may be made
especially of the extract of lupin marketed by Silab under the
trademark Structurine.RTM.; the extract of Fagus sylvatica beech
buds marketed by Gattefosse under the trademark Gatuline.RTM. RC;
and the extract of the zooplankton Salina marketed by Seporga under
the trademark GP4G.RTM.; the copper tripeptide from Procyte; a
peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as the product
marketed by Laboratoires Serobiologiques under the trademark
Filladyn LS 9397.RTM..
[0421] Preferably, an active agent that stimulates the synthesis of
dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or that prevents their
degradation, selected from among agents for stimulating the
synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, agents for inhibiting elastin
degradation, agents for stimulating fibronectin synthesis, agents
for stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, and
mixtures thereof, will be used.
[0422] Even more preferentially, an active agent that stimulates
the synthesis of the glycosaminoglycans, selected from among an
extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica, an extract of
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca,
essence of Mamaku, and an extract of cress, and mixtures thereof,
will be used.
[0423] As preferred active agents for stimulating the synthesis of
dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their
degradation, mention may be made of:
[0424] synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or
palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by Sederma; peptides extracted from
plants, such as the soybean hydrolysate marketed by Coletica under
the trademark Phytokine.RTM.; rice peptides such as
Nutripeptide.RTM. from Silab, methylsilanol mannuronate such as
Algisium C.RTM. marketed by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of
Medicago sativa (alfalfa), such as the product marketed by Silab
under the trademark Vitanol.RTM.; a peptide extract of hazelnut,
such as the product marketed by Solabia under the trademark
Nuteline C.RTM.; arginine; an extract of Aphanizomenon flos-aquae
(Cyanophyceae) marketed under the trademark Lanablue.RTM. by Atrium
Biotechnologies, the malt extract marketed by Coletica under the
trademark Collalift.RTM., lycopene; an extract of lychee; an
extract of moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781.RTM. from Cognis; an
extract of Vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in
FR-A-2814950; retinol and derivatives thereof, in particular
retinyl palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae marketed
by LSN under the trademark Cytovitin.RTM.; a peptide extract of
hazelnut such as the product marketed by Solabia under the
trademark Nuteline C.RTM.;
{2-[acetyl(3-trifluoromethylphenyl)amino]-3-methylbutyrylamino}acetic
acid, also known as N--[N-acetyl,
N'-(3-trifluoromethyl)phenylvalyl]glycine, or
N-acetyl-N-[3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl]valylglycine or acetyl
trifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine, or an ester thereof with a
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alcohol; an extract of rice peptides such as
Colhibin.RTM. from Pentapharm, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica
such as Emblica.RTM. from Rona; the extract of the brown alga
Padina pavonica marketed by Alban Muller under the trademark
HSP3.RTM.; the extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae available
especially by Silab under the trademark Firmalift.RTM. or by LSN
under the trademark Cytovitin.RTM.; an extract of Laminaria
ochroleuca such as Laminaine.RTM. from Secma; the essence of Mamaku
from Lucas Meyer, the extract of lupin marketed by Silab under the
trademark Structurine.RTM.; the extract of Fagus sylvatica beech
buds marketed by Gattefosse under the trademark
Gatuline.RTM.RC.
[0425] Agents for Stimulating Fibroblast or Keratinocyte
Proliferation and/or Keratinocyte Differentiation:
[0426] The agents for stimulating fibroblast proliferation that may
be used in the composition according to the invention may be
selected, for example, from plant proteins or polypeptides,
extracted especially from soybean (for example a soybean extract
marketed by LSN under the trademark Eleseryl SH-VEG 8.RTM. or
marketed by Silab under the trademark Raffermine.RTM.); an extract
of hydrolysed soybean proteins such as Ridulisse.RTM. from Silab;
and plant hormones such as gibberellins and cytokinins; a peptide
extract of hazelnut such as the product marketed by Solabia under
the trademark Nuteline C.RTM..
[0427] Preferably, an agent that promotes keratinocyte
proliferation and/or differentiation will be used.
[0428] The agents for stimulating keratinocyte proliferation that
may be used in the composition according to the invention
especially comprise adenosine; phloroglucinol, the extract of
Hydrangea macrophylla leaves, for instance Amacha Liquid E.RTM.
from Ichimaru Pharcos, a yeast extract such as Stimoderm.RTM. from
CLR; the extract of Larrea divaricata such as Capislow.RTM. from
Sederma, mixtures of extract of papaya, of olive leaves and of
lemon, such as Xyleine.RTM. from Vincience, retinol and esters
thereof, including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, the nut cake
extracts marketed by the Gattefosse and the extracts of Solanum
tuberosum such as Dermolectine.RTM. marketed by Sederma.
[0429] Among the agents for stimulating keratinocyte
differentiation are, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea
fennel, a peptide extract of lupin, such as the product marketed by
Silab under the trademark Structurine.RTM.; sodium beta-sitosteryl
sulfate, such as the product marketed by Seporga under the
trademark Phytocohesine.RTM.; and a water-soluble extract of corn,
such as the product marketed by Solabia under the trademark
Phytovityl.RTM.; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such
as the product marketed by Laboratoires Serobiologiques under the
trademark Filladyn LS 9397.RTM.; and lignans such as
secoisolariciresinol, and retinol and esters thereof, including
retinyl palmitate.
[0430] As agents for stimulating keratinocyte proliferation and/or
differentiation, mention may also be made of oestrogens such as
oestradiol and homologues; cytokines.
[0431] As preferred active agents for stimulating fibroblast or
keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation,
mention will be made of plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted
especially from soybean (for example a soybean extract marketed by
LSN under the trademark Eleseryl SH-VEG 8.RTM. or marketed by Silab
under the trademark Raffermine.RTM.); an extract of hydrolysed
soybean proteins such as Ridulisse.RTM. from Silab; a peptide
extract of hazelnut such as the product marketed by Solabia under
the trademark Nuteline C.RTM.; adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast
extract such as Stimoderm.RTM. from CLR; a peptide extract of lupin
such as the product marketed by Silab under the trademark
Structurine.RTM.; a water-soluble corn extract, such as the product
marketed by Solabia under the trademark Phytovityl.RTM.; a peptide
extract of Voandzeia substerranea, such as the product marketed by
Laboratoires Serobiologiques under the trademark Filladyn LS
9397.RTM.; retinol and esters thereof, including retinyl
palmitate.
[0432] Agents for Promoting the Maturation of the Horny
Envelope:
[0433] Agents that participate in the maturation of the horny
envelope, which becomes impaired with age and induces a decrease in
transglutaminase activity, may be used in the compositions of the
invention.
[0434] Examples that may be mentioned include urea and derivatives
thereof and in particular Hydrovance.RTM. from National Starch and
the other active agents mentioned in L'Oreal FR-2877220
(unpublished).
[0435] NO-Synthase Inhibitors:
[0436] The agent with an inhibitory action on NO synthase may be
selected from among OPCs (procyannidol oligomers); plant extracts
of the species Vitis vinifera marketed especially by Euromed under
the trademark "Leucocyanidines de raisins extra", or by Indena
under the trademark Leucoselect.RTM., or finally by Hansen under
the trademark "Extrait de marc de raisin"; plant extracts of the
species Olea europaea preferably obtained from olive tree leaves
and marketed especially by Vinyals in the form of a dry extract, or
by Biologia & Technologia under the trademark Eurol.RTM. BT;
and plant extracts of the species Gingko biloba, preferably a dry
aqueous extract of this plant marketed by Beaufour under the
trademark "Ginkgo biloba extrait standard", and mixtures
thereof.
[0437] Peripheral Benzodiazepine Receptor (PBR) Antagonists:
[0438] Mention may be made, for example, of
1-(2-chlorophenyl)-N-(1-methylpropyl)-3-isoquinoline carboxamide;
the compounds described in WO 03/030937 and WO 03/068753,
pyridazino[4,5-b]indole-1-acetamide derivatives of general formula
(VII) as described in WO 00/44384.
[0439] Agents for Increasing the Activity of the Sebaceous
Glands:
[0440] Mention may be made, for example, of methyl
dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione and O-linoleyl-6D-glucose, and
mixtures thereof.
[0441] Agents for Stimulating the Energy Metabolism of Cells:
[0442] The active agent for stimulating the energy metabolism of
cells may be selected, for example, from biotin, an extract of
Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as Phosphovital.RTM. from Sederma,
the mixture of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium salts of
pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, for instance Physiogenyl.RTM. from
Solabia, a mixture of zinc, copper and magnesium gluconate, such as
Sepitonic M3.RTM. from SEPPIC, and mixtures thereof; a beta-glucan
derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae, such as the product marketed
by Mibelle AG Biochemistry.
[0443] Tensioning Agents:
[0444] The term "tensioning agent" that may be used according to
the invention means compounds liable to have a tensioning effect,
i.e. being able to make the skin taut.
[0445] According to the invention, the term "tensioning agent"
generally means any polymer that is soluble or dispersible in water
at a temperature ranging from 25.degree. C. to 50.degree. C. at a
concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum
concentration at which a medium of uniform appearance is formed and
producing at this concentration of 7% or at this maximum
concentration in water a shrinkage of more than 15% in the test
described below.
[0446] The maximum concentration at which a medium of uniform
appearance forms is determined to within .+-.10% to preferably to
within .+-.5%.
[0447] The expression "medium of uniform appearance" means a medium
that does not contain any aggregates that are visible to the naked
eye.
[0448] For the determination of the said maximum concentration, the
tensioning agent is gradually added to the water with
deflocculating stirring at a temperature ranging from 25.degree. C.
to 50.degree. C., and the mixture is then stirred for one hour. The
mixture thus prepared is then examined after 24 hours to see if it
is of uniform appearance (absence of aggregates visible to the
naked eye).
[0449] The tensioning effect may be characterized by an in vitro
shrinkage test.
[0450] A homogeneous mixture of the tensioning agent in water, at a
concentration of 7% by weight or at the maximum concentration
defined above, is prepared beforehand and as described
previously.
[0451] 30 .mu.l of the homogeneous mixture are placed on a
rectangular sample (10.times.40 mm, thus having an initial width
L.sub.0 of 10 mm) of elastomer with a modulus of 20 MPa and a
thickness of 100 .mu.m.
[0452] After drying for 3 hours at 22.+-.3.degree. C. and 40.+-.10%
relative humidity RH, the elastomer sample has a shrunken width,
noted L.sub.3h, due to the tension exerted by the applied
tensioning agent.
[0453] The tensioning effect (TE) of the said polymer is then
quantified in the following manner:
[0454] `TE`=(L.sub.0-L.sub.3h/L.sub.o).times.100 as %
[0455] with L.sub.0=initial width 10 mm and
[0456] L.sub.3h=width after 3 hours of drying
[0457] The tensioning agent may be selected from among: plant or
animal proteins and hydrolysates thereof;
[0458] polysaccharides of natural origin;
[0459] mixed silicates;
[0460] colloidal particles of mineral fillers;
[0461] synthetic polymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0462] One skilled in the art will know how to choose, from the
chemical categories listed above, the materials corresponding to
the tensioning test as described below.
[0463] Mention may be made especially of:
[0464] (a) plant proteins and protein hydrolysates, in particular
of corn, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, spelt, pea, bean, lentil,
soybean and lupin,
[0465] (b) polysaccharides of natural origin, especially (a)
polyholosides, for example (i) in the form of starch derived
especially from rice, corn, potato, cassava, pea, wheat, oat, etc.
or (ii) in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans,
cellulose polymers and pectins, advantageously as an aqueous
dispersion of gel microparticles, and (b) latices consisting of
shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal
resins, cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof,
[0466] (c) mixed silicates, especially phyllosilicates and in
particular Laponites,
[0467] (d) colloidal particles of mineral fillers with a
number-average diameter of from 0.1 to 100 nm and preferably from 3
to 30 nm, and selected, for example, from: silica, silica-alumina
composites, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium
carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, zinc oxide and titanium
dioxide. As silica-alumina composite colloidal particles that may
be used in the compositions according to the invention, examples
that may be mentioned include those marketed by Grace under the
trademarks Ludox AM, Ludox AM-X 6021, Ludox HSA and Ludox TMA,
[0468] (e) synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latices or
acrylic-silicone latices, in particular those described in
EP-1038519, such as a polydimethylsiloxane grafted with
propylthio(polymethyl acrylate), propylthio(polymethyl
methacrylate) and propylthio(polymethacrylic acid), or
alternatively a polydimethylsiloxane grafted with
propylthio(polyisobutyl methacrylate) and
propylthio(polymethacrylic acid).
[0469] Such grafted silicone polymers are especially marketed by 3M
under the trademarks VS 80, VS 70 and LO21.
[0470] The tensioning agent will be present in the composition in
an amount that is effective for obtaining the desired biological
effect according to the invention.
[0471] By way of example, the tensioning agent may be included in
the composition according to the invention in a content ranging
from 0.01% to 30% by weight of active material and preferably from
1% to 30% by weight of active material relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0472] The term "active material" is intended to exclude the medium
in which the tensioning agent may be dissolved or dispersed in its
commercial form, for example in the case of dispersions of
colloidal particles.
[0473] It is also possible, especially to complement and/or
potentiate the effect of tensioning agents, to use agents that
increase the expression of mechanoreceptors, such as agents that
increase the expression of integrins.
[0474] An example that may be mentioned is an extract of rye seed,
such as the product marketed by Silab under the trademark
Coheliss.RTM..
[0475] Fat-Restructuring Agents:
[0476] According to the invention, the term "fat-restructuring
agents" means agents capable of stimulating lipogenesis and of
promoting adipocyte differentiation, thus making it possible to
prevent or slow down the wasting of fat contained in the
skin-supporting tissues, also known as "wasting of skin fat".
[0477] The term "skin fat" means the network of fat cells that
forms the volumes on which the facial skin rests and is molded.
[0478] These agents are intended:
[0479] to reduce the loss of skin density and/or the wasting of
skin fat, in particular on the cheeks and around the eyes,
and/or
[0480] to prevent the collapse and/or hollowing of the facial
volumes, the loss of consistency of the skin and/or its
maintenance, in particular on the cheeks and around the eyes,
and/or
[0481] to improve the underlying volumes of the skin of the face
and/or the neck, in particular on the cheeks, the oval of the face
and around the eyes, and/or
[0482] to improve the density, springiness and maintenance of the
skin, in particular on the cheeks, the oval of the face and around
the eyes, and/or
[0483] to remodel the facial features, in particular the oval of
the face.
[0484] Examples of fat-restructuring agents that may especially be
mentioned include an extract of black tea, such as the extract of
fermented black tea marketed by Sederma under the trademark
Kombuchka.RTM., and an extract of Artemisia abrotanum, such as the
product marketed by Silab under the trademark Pulpactyl.RTM..
[0485] Slimming Agents:
[0486] Slimming (lipolytic) agents that may especially be mentioned
include caffeine, theophylline and its derivatives, theobromine,
sericosine, asiatic acid, acefylline, aminophylline,
chloroethyltheophylline, diprofylline, diniprophylline,
etamiphylline and its derivatives, etofylline and proxyphylline;
extracts of tea, of coffee, of guarana, of mate, of cola (Cola
nitida) and especially the dry extract of guarana fruit (Paulina
sorbilis) containing 8% to 10% caffeine; extracts of climbing ivy
(Hedera helix), of arnica (Arnica montana L), of rosemary
(Rosmarinus officinalis N), of marigold (Calendula officinalis), of
sage (Salvia officinalis L), of ginseng (Panax ginseng), of
St.-John's wort (Hypericum perforatum), of butcher's-broom (Ruscus
aculeatus L), of meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria L), of
orthosiphon (Orthosiphon stamincus Benth), of birch (Betula alba),
of pumpwood and of argan tree, extracts of ginkgo biloba, extracts
of horsetail, extracts of escin, extracts of cangzhu, extracts of
Chrysanthellum indicum, extracts of diosgenin-rich Dioscorea plants
or pure diosgenin or hecogenin and derivatives thereof, extracts of
Ballota, extracts of Guioa, of Davallia, of Terminalia, of
Barringtonia, of Trema or of Antirobia, the extract of bitter
orange pips; an extract of husks of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao)
such as the product marketed by Solabia under the trademark
Caobromine.RTM..
[0487] Agents for Promoting the Cutaneous Microcirculation:
[0488] The active agent acting on the cutaneous microcirculation
may be used for preventing dulling of the complexion and/or to
improve the appearance of the area around the eyes, in particular
to reduce the shadows around the eyes. It may be selected, for
example, from an extract of maritime pine bark, for instance
Pycnogenol.RTM. from Biolandes, manganese gluconate (Givobio
GMn.RTM. from SEPPIC), an extract of Ammi visnaga such as Visnadine
from Indena, extract of lupin (Eclaline.RTM. from Silab), the
protein coupling of hydrolysed wheat/palmitic acid with palmitic
acid, such as Epaline 100 from Laboratoires Carllene, the extract
of bitter orange blossom (Remoduline.RTM. from Silab), vitamin P
and derivatives thereof, for instance methyl-4 esculetol sodium
monoethanoate marketed under the trademark Permethol.RTM. by
Sephytal, extracts of Ruscus, of common horse chestnut, of ivy, of
ginseng and of melilot, caffeine, nicotinate and derivatives
thereof, lysine and derivatives thereof, for instance
Asparlyne.RTM. from Solabia, an extract of black tea such as
Kombuchka from Sederma; rutin salts; an extract of the alga
Corallina officinalis, such as the product marketed by Cod if; and
mixtures thereof.
[0489] As preferred agents for promoting the cutaneous
microcirculation, mention will be made of caffeine, an extract of
bitter orange blossom, an extract of black tea, rutin salts and an
extract of the alga Corallina officinalis.
[0490] Calmatives or Anti-Irritants:
[0491] The term "calmative" means a compound that can reduce the
sensation of stinging, itching or tautness of the skin.
[0492] As calmatives that may be used in the composition according
to the invention, mention may be made of: procyannidol oligomers,
vitamins E, B5 and B3, caffeine and derivatives thereof, pentacylic
triterpenes and plant extracts containing them,
.beta.-glycyrrhetinic acid and salts or derivatives thereof
(stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxyglycyrrhetic acid or
glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide) and also plants containing
them (e.g.: Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and salts thereof,
ursolic acid and salts thereof, boswellic acid and salts thereof,
betulinic acid and salts thereof, an extract of Paeonia
suffruticosa and/or lactiflora, an extract of Laminaria saccharina,
extracts of Centella asiatica, Canola oil, bisabolol, the
phosphoric diester of vitamin E and C, for instance Sepivital
EPC.RTM. from SEPPIC, camomile extracts, allantoin, omega-3
unsaturated oils such as musk rose oil, blackcurrant oil, Ecchium
oil, fish oil or beauty-leaf oil, plankton extracts, capryloyl
glycine, a mixture of water lily blossom extract and of
palmitoylproline, such as the product marketed under the trademark
Seppicalm VG.RTM. by SEPPIC, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an
extract of Centipeda cunninghami, such as the product marketed
under the trademark Cehami PF.RTM. by TRI-K Industries, an extract
of sunflower seeds, in particular Helioxine.RTM. from Silab, an
extract of Linum usitatissimum seeds, for instance Sensiline.RTM.
from Silab, tocotrienols, piperonal, an extract of Epilobium
angustifolium, such as the product marketed under the trademark
Canadian Willowherb Extract by Fytokem Products, Aloe vera,
phytosterols, cornflower water, rose water, an extract of mint, in
particular of mint leaves, for instance Calmiskin.RTM. from Silab,
aniseed derivatives, filamentous bacteria, for instance
Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in EP-761204 and marketed by
Chimex under the trademark Mexoryl SBG.RTM., an extract of rose
petals, for instance Rose Flower Herbasol.RTM. extract by
Cosmetochem, shea butter, a mixture of the waxy fraction of barley
seeds obtained by supercritical CO.sub.2, of shea butter and of
argan oil, for instance Stimu-tex AS.RTM. from Pentapharm,
alkaline-earth metal salts, especially of strontium, a fermented
extract of Alteromonas marketed under the trademark Abyssine.RTM.
by Atrium Biotechnologies; spring water from the Vichy basin, such
as waters originating from the Celestin, Chomel, Grande-Grille,
Hopital, Lucas and Parc sources, and preferably water from the
Lucas source; an extract of Eperua falcata bark, such as the
product marketed by Cognis under the trademark Eperuline.RTM.; an
extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product marketed
by Ichimaru Pharcos under the trademark Botanpi Liquid B.RTM.; and
mixtures thereof.
[0493] As preferred calmatives according to the invention, use will
be made of:
[0494] .beta.-glycyrrhetinic acid and salts or derivatives thereof
(stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxyglycyrrhetic acid or
glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide) and also plants containing
them (e.g. Glycyrrhiza glabra); ursolic acid and salts thereof;
extracts of Centella asiatica, Canola oil, bisabolol; camomile
extracts, allantoin; a mixture of extract of water lily blossom and
of palmitoylproline, such as the product marketed under the
trademark Seppicalm VG.RTM. by SEPPIC; Aloe vera, rose water,
extract of mint, in particular of mint leaves, such as
Calmiskin.RTM. from Silab, filamentous bacteria such as
Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in EP-761204 and marketed by
Chimex under the trademark Mexoryl SBG.RTM., an extract of rose
petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol.RTM. extract by Cosmetochem,
shea butter, a fermented extract of Alteromonas marketed under the
trademark Abyssine.RTM. by Atrium Biotechnologies; spring water
from the Vichy basin, such as waters originating from the Celestin,
Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hopital, Lucas and Parc sources, and
preferably water from the Lucas source; an extract of Eperua
falcate bark, such as the product marketed by Cognis under the
trademark Eperuline.RTM.; an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root,
such as the product marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the
trademark Botanpi Liquid B.RTM.; and mixtures thereof.
[0495] Sebo-Regulating or Anti-Seborrhoeic Agents:
[0496] The term "sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents"
especially means agents capable of regulating the activity of the
sebaceous glands.
[0497] Mention May be Made Especially of:
[0498] retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or
pyridoxine), selenium chloride and sea fennel;
[0499] mixtures of extract of cinnamon, of tea and of
octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA.RTM. from SEPPIC;
[0500] the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine
marketed especially by SEPPIC under the trademark Sepicontrol
A5.RTM.;
[0501] zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc
pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc
aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate and zinc cysteate;
[0502] copper derivatives and in particular copper pidolate such as
Cuivridone.RTM. from Solabia;
[0503] extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona
succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum
perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia
oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed, for example, by
Maruzen;
[0504] extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria), such as the
product marketed under the trademark Sebonormine.RTM. by Silab;
[0505] extracts of the alga Laminaria saccharine, such as the
product marketed under the trademark Phlorogine.RTM. by
Biotechmarine;
[0506] mixtures of extracts of salad burnet root (Sanguisorba
officinalis/Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber
officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as the
product marketed under the trademark Sebustop.RTM. by Solabia;
[0507] linseed extracts, such as the product marketed under the
trademark Linumine.RTM. by Lucas Meyer;
[0508] Phellodendron extracts, such as those marketed under the
trademark Phellodendron extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by
Ichimaru Pharcos;
[0509] mixtures of argan oil, of Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto)
extract and of sesame seed extract, such as the product marketed
under the trademark Regu SEB.RTM. by Pentapharm;
[0510] mixtures of extracts of willowherb, of Terminalia chebula,
of nasturtium and of bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as the
product marketed under the trademark Seborilys.RTM. by Green
Tech;
[0511] extracts of Pygeum afrianum, such as the product marketed
under the trademark Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by
Euromed;
[0512] extracts of Serenoa serrulata, such as the products marketed
under the trademark Viapure Sabal by Actives International or those
marketed by Euromed;
[0513] mixtures of extracts of plantain, of Berberis aquifolium and
of sodium salicylate, such as the product marketed under the
trademark Seboclear.RTM. by Rahn;
[0514] clove extract, such as the product marketed under the
trademark Clove extract powder by Maruzen;
[0515] argan oil, such as the product marketed under the trademark
Lipofructyl.RTM. by Laboratoires Serobiologiques;
[0516] lactic protein filtrates, such as the product marketed under
the trademark Normaseb.RTM. by Sederma;
[0517] extracts of the alga Laminaria, such as the product marketed
under the trademark Laminarghane.RTM. by Biotechmarine;
[0518] oligosaccharides of the alga Laminaria digitata, such as the
product marketed under the trademark Phycosaccharide AC by
Codif;
[0519] sugar cane extracts, such as the product marketed under the
trademark Policosonol.RTM. by Sabinsa;
[0520] sulfonated shale oil, such as the product marketed under the
trademark Ichthyol Pale.RTM. by Ichthyol;
[0521] European meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) extracts, such as the
product marketed under the trademark Cytobiol.RTM. Ulmaire by
Libiol;
[0522] sebacic acid, especially marketed in the form of a sodium
polyacrylate gel under the trademark Sebosoft.RTM. by Sederma;
[0523] glucomannans extracted from konjac tuber and modified with
alkylsulfonate chains, such as the product marketed under the
trademark Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical;
[0524] extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those marketed
under the trademark Sophora powder or Sophora extract by
Bioland;
[0525] extracts of Cinchona succirubra bark, such as the product
marketed under the trademark Red Bark HS by Alban Muller;
[0526] extracts of Quillaja saponaria, such as the product marketed
under the trademark Panama wood HS by Alban Muller;
[0527] glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as the
product marketed under the trademark Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC;
[0528] the mixture of oleanolic acid and of nordihydroguaiaretic
acid, such as the product marketed in the form of a gel under the
trademark AC.Net by Sederma;
[0529] phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid;
[0530] tri(C.sub.12-C.sub.13)alkyl citrate marketed under the
trademark Cosmacol.RTM. ECI by Sasol; tri(C.sub.14-C.sub.15)alkyl
citrate marketed under the trademark Cosmacol.RTM. ECL by
Sasol;
[0531] 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and especially mixtures of
10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decanediol,
such as the product marketed under the trademark Acnacidol.RTM. BG
by Vincience; and mixtures thereof.
[0532] Preferred anti-seborrhoeic active agents that may be
mentioned include:
[0533] benzoyl peroxide and vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine),
[0534] zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc
pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc
aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate and zinc cysteate;
[0535] meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) extracts, such as the product
marketed under the trademark Sebonormine.RTM. by Silab;
[0536] extracts of the alga Laminaria saccharine, such as the
product marketed under the trademark Phlorogine.RTM. by
Biotechmarine;
[0537] mixtures of extracts of salad burnet root (Sanguisorba
officinalis/Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber
officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as the
product marketed under the trademark Sebustop.RTM. by Solabia;
[0538] clove extract, such as the product marketed under the
trademark Clove extract powder by Maruzen;
[0539] lactic protein filtrates, such as the product marketed under
the trademark Normaseb.RTM. by Sederma;
[0540] European meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) extracts, such as the
product marketed under the trademark Cytobiol.RTM. Ulmaire by
Libiol;
[0541] sebacic acid, especially marketed in the form of a sodium
polyacrylate gel under the trademark Sebosoft.RTM. by Sederma;
[0542] glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as the
product marketed under the trademark Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC;
[0543] tri(C.sub.12-C.sub.13)alkyl citrate marketed under the
trademark Cosmacol.RTM. ECI by Sasol; tri(C.sub.14-C.sub.15)alkyl
citrate marketed under the trademark Cosmacol.RTM. ECL by Sasol;
[0544] 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and especially mixtures of
10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decanediol,
such as the product marketed under the trademark Acnacidol.RTM. BG
by Vincience; and mixtures thereof.
[0545] Preferentially, the anti-seborrhoeic active agent is
selected from among:
[0546] zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc
pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc
aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate and zinc cysteate; and
preferably zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate) or zinc
salicylate;
[0547] clove extract, such as the product marketed under the
trademark Clove extract powder by Maruzen;
[0548] glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as the
product marketed under the trademark Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC;
[0549] tri(C.sub.12-C.sub.13)alkyl citrate marketed under the
trademark Cosmacol.RTM. ECI by Sasol; tri(C.sub.14-C.sub.15)alkyl
citrate marketed under the trademark Cosmacol.RTM. ECL by Sasol;
and mixtures thereof.
[0550] The anti-seborrhoeic active agent is, for example, present
in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from
0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0551] Astringents:
[0552] According to the invention, the term "astringents" means
agents for combating the dilation of the sebaceous follicles.
[0553] As astringents that may be used in the composition according
to the invention, mention may be made of extracts of mushroom pulp
(Polyporus officinalis), for instance Laricyl LS88650 from Cognis,
extracts of Terminalia catappa and Sambucus nigra, for instance
Phytofirm LS91200.RTM. from Cognis, extracts of gall nut, for
instance Tanlex VE.RTM. from Ichimaru Pharcos, aluminum
hydroxychloride, centella extracts (e.g. Plantactiv centella from
Cognis), dicetyl dimethylammonium chloride, for instance Varisoft
432 CG.RTM. from Degussa, common horsechestnut extracts, mallow
extracts, witch-hazel extracts, sweet almond extracts, marshmallow
root extracts and linseed extracts, for instance Almondermin LS
3380.RTM. from Cognis, burdock extracts, nettle extracts, birch
extracts, horsetail extracts, camomile extracts, for instance those
marketed under the trademark Extrapone 9 Special.RTM. by Symrise,
skullcap extracts, European meadowsweet extracts (for example
Cytobiol Ulmaire from Libiol), a mixture of extracts of white
ginger, of horsetail, of nettle, of rosemary and of yucca, for
instance Herb extract B13480.RTM. from Bell Flavors &
Fragrances, extracts of acacia, of elm, of white willow, of
cinnamon, of birch and of meadowsweet, Panama sapogenins, zinc
phenolsulfonate from Interchemical, extracts of gentian, of
cucumber and of walnut, the mixture of extracts of Ratanhia, of
grapefruit, of gumweed and of oak gall, for instance Epilami.RTM.
from Alban Muller.
[0554] As preferred astringents according to the invention, use
will be made of skullcap extracts, European meadowsweet extracts,
meadowsweet extracts, gentian extracts and burdock extracts, and
mixtures thereof.
[0555] Cicatrizing Agents:
[0556] Examples of cicatrizing agents that may especially be
mentioned include:
[0557] allantoin, urea, certain amino acids, for instance
hydroxyproline, arginine, and serine, and also extracts of white
lily (for instance Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeast
extract, for instance the cicatrizing agent LS LO/7225B from
Laboratoires Serobiologiques), tamanu oil, extract of Saccharomyces
cerevisiae, for instance Biodynes.RTM. TRF.RTM. from Arch Chemical,
oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives, for instance chitosan
glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract, for instance GP4G.RTM.
from Vincience, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis
extracts, ximeninic acid and salts thereof, rose hip oil, marigold
extracts, for instance Souci Ami.RTM. Liposolible from Alban
Muller, horsetail extracts, lemon peel extracts, for instance
Herbasol.RTM. citron from Cosmetochem, helichrysum extracts, common
yarrow extracts and folic acid.
[0558] As preferred cicatrizing agents according to the invention,
use will be made of arginine, serine, folic acid, tamanu oil,
sodium acexamate, horsetail extracts and helichrysum extracts, and
mixtures thereof.
[0559] Anti-Inflammatory Agents:
[0560] As particular anti-inflammatory agents that may be used
according to the invention, mention may be made of cortisone,
hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azelaic acid,
acetaminophen, diclofenac, clobetasol propionate, folic acid; an
extract of Eperua falcata bark, such as the product marketed by
Cognis under the trademark Eperuline.RTM.; an extract of Paeonia
suffruticosa root, such as the product marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos
under the trademark Botanpi Liquid B.RTM.; and mixtures
thereof.
[0561] Preferred anti-inflammatory agents that will be mentioned
are azelaic acid, folic acid, an extract of Eperua falcata bark,
such as the product marketed by Cognis under the trademark
Eperuline.RTM.; an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as
the product marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the trademark
Botanpi Liquid B.RTM.; and mixtures thereof.
[0562] Anti-Acne Agents:
[0563] In one advantageous aspect of the invention, the composition
may also comprise at least one anti-acne active agent.
[0564] The term "anti-acne active agent" especially means any
active agent that has effects on the specific flora of greasy skin,
for instance Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes). These effects may
be bactericidal.
[0565] Antibactericidal active agents that may especially be
mentioned include:
[0566] active agents and preserving agents with antimicrobial
activity mentioned in DE-10324567, which is incorporated into the
present invention by reference,
[0567] Asiatic acid,
[0568] the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl
6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone (INCI name: piroctone olamine),
marketed especially under the trademark Octopirox.RTM. by
Clariant;
[0569] citronellic acid, perillic acid (or
4-isopropenylcyclohex-1-enecarboxylic acid),
[0570] glyceryl 2-ethylhexyl ether (INCI name:
ethylhexylglycerine), for example marketed under the trademark
Sensiva SC 50.RTM. by Shulke & Mayr, glyceryl
caprylate/caprate, for example marketed under the trademark Capmul
MCM.RTM. by Abitec;
[0571] sodium calcium phosphosilicate, especially marketed under
the trademarks Bioactive Glasspowder.RTM. and Actysse Premier
BG.RTM. by Schott Glass;
[0572] silver-based particles, for example those marketed under the
trademark Metashine ME 2025 PS.RTM. by Nippon Sheet Glass;
[0573] hop cone extract (Humulus lupulus) obtained by supercritical
CO.sub.2 extraction, such as the product marketed under the
trademark HOP CO.sub.2-TO Extract.RTM. by Flavex Naturextrakte,
[0574] St.-John's Wort extract obtained by supercritical CO.sub.2
extraction, such as the product marketed under the trademark
St.-John's Wort CO.sub.2-TO Extract.RTM. by Flavex Naturextrakte,
the mixture of extracts of roots of Scutellaria baicalensis, of
Paeonia suffruticosa and Glycyrrhiza glabra, such as the product
marketed under the trademark BMB-CF.RTM. by Naturogin,
[0575] argan tree extract, for instance Argapure LS9710.RTM. from
Cognis;
[0576] bearberry leaf extracts, for instance the product marketed
under the trademark Melfade-J by Pentapharm;
[0577] 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid such as Acnacidol P.RTM. from
Vincience, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, diiodomethyl p-tolyl
sulfone such as Amical Flowable.RTM. from Angus, malachite powder,
zinc oxide such as Zincare.RTM. from Elementis GMBH,
octadecenedioic acid such as Arlatone dioic DCA.RTM. from Uniqema;
ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or
triclosan), 1-(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (or
triclocarban), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide,
3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol,
phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and salts
thereof, miconazole and salts thereof, itraconazole, terconazole,
econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole,
butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine,
ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and salts thereof,
benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid,
phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and
salts thereof, arachidonic acid, resorcinol,
3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine,
octanoylglycine such as Lipacid C8G.RTM. from SEPPIC, caprylyl
glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenylmidazoldioxolane
and derivatives thereof described in WO 93/18743, iodopropynyl
butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol,
phytosphingosines; quaternary ammonium salts, for instance
cetyltrimethylammonium salts and cetylpyridinium salts, and
mixtures thereof.
[0578] Mention may also be made of certain surfactants with an
antimicrobial effect, for instance sodium cocoamphoacetate or
disodium diacetate such as Miranol C2M Conc. NP, betaines, for
instance the cocoyl betaine Genagen KB from Clariant, sodium lauryl
ether sulfate, for instance Emal 270 D from Kao, decyl glucoside,
for instance Plantacare 2000 UP, branched C.sub.12-13 dialkyl
malates, for instance Cosmacol EMI, propylene glycol monoesters,
for instance propylene glycol monolaurate, monocaprylate or
monocaprate, lauryldimethylamine betaine, for instance Empigen
BB/LS, and also polyquaternary ammoniums such as Quaternium-24 or
Bardac 2050 from Lonza and those described in FR 0108283, and
mixtures thereof.
[0579] As preferred antimicrobial agents, an agent selected from
among octoglycerine or octoxyglycerine, and 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic
acid, and mixtures thereof, will be used in the compositions of the
invention.
[0580] Other additional anti-acne active agents may be added to the
abovementioned anti-acne active agents.
[0581] Mention may be made especially of active agents with
bacterial anti-adhesion effects or agents that act on the biofilm
of bacteria to prevent them from multiplying.
[0582] As agents for preventing and/or reducing the adhesion of
microorganisms, mention may be made especially of: phytanetriol and
derivatives thereof as described in EP-1529523, plant oils such as
wheatgerm oil, calendula oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil,
sweet almond oil, groundnut oil, jojoba oil, sesame seed oil,
apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil and macadamia oil, described in
EP-1133979, or certain surfactants such as disodium
cocoamphodiacetate, oxyethylenated (7 EO) glyceryl cocoate,
18-hexadecenyl succinate, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl
behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, and the branched
C.sub.12-C.sub.13 dialkyl tartrates described in EP-1129694, and
mixtures thereof.
[0583] In particular with regard to the propagation of P. acnes, or
as active agents that act on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent
them from proliferating, mention may be made of pentylene glycol,
Nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibers), rice bran oil, polyvinyl alcohol
such as Celvol 540 PV Alcohol.RTM. from Celanese Chemical, rapeseed
oil such as Akorex L.RTM. from Karlshamns, and fructose
derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0584] The anti-acne active agent may be present in a content
ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.05% to 5%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0585] As a function of the nature and/or solubility of the
abovementioned active agents, one skilled in the art will know how
to select the most suitable embodiment according to the
invention.
[0586] The cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents will be
present in one of the compositions according to the invention in a
content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, even more
preferentially from 0.5% to 5% to more preferably from 0.1% to 1%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0587] For "scrubbing" applications, the contents of cosmetic
and/or dermatological active agents may range from 1% to 50% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition and
preferably from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
[0588] Scrubbing is a well-known means for improving the appearance
and/or texture of the skin and/or the scalp, especially for
improving the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and/or for
reducing the visible and/or tactile irregularities of the skin, and
in particular for improving the surface appearance of the skin, for
attenuating actinic lentigo, acne or chickenpox marks, and also for
preventing, attenuating or combating the signs of aging of the
skin, and especially for smoothing out irregularities in the
texture of the skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines.
[0589] It has the effect of removing a surface part of the skin to
be treated (epidermis and possibly the upper layer of the dermis),
via chemical methods.
[0590] In order to further illustrate the present invention and the
advantages thereof, the following specific examples are given, it
being understood that same are intended only as illustrative and in
nowise limitative. In said examples to follow, all parts and
percentages are given by weight, unless otherwise indicated.
Examples A, B and C
[0591] The following three aqueous-alcoholic self-tanning solutions
are prepared:
TABLE-US-00002 Example A (outside Example the inven- B (inven-
Example C tion) tion) (invention) Ingredients weight % weight %
weight % Dihydroxyacetone 5.0 2.5 2.5 Dehydroascorbic acid -- 2.5
Dehydroascorbic acid -- 2.5 dimer of formula: ##STR00006##
Ethanol/water mixture qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 (50/50)
[0592] Protocol:
[0593] Samples of Vitro-skin.TM. 2.5 cm.times.2.5 cm in size are
hydrated for 24 hours in a container containing 20% glycerol in
water.
[0594] Vitro-skin.TM. is a substrate that imitates the properties
of the surface of human skin. It contains proteins and fats and has
a typography, a pH, a critical surface tension and an ionic
strength similar to those of human skin.
[0595] The coloring product to be tested is spread, at a rate of 2
mg.cm.sup.-2, using a fingerstall onto the Vitro-skin.TM.
samples.
[0596] The Vitro-skin.TM. samples are then incubated in a hermetic
container containing an 80/20 glycerol/water solution and finally
placed in an oven at 32.degree. C.
[0597] Colorimetric measurements are taken at t=15 minutes and 24
hours to monitor the change in coloration over time.
[0598] Equipment:
[0599] Minolta CM2600d spectrocolorimeter
[0600] Illuminant: D65
[0601] Observation angle: 10.degree.
[0602] SCE: specular excluded
[0603] The results are expressed in the (L*, a*, b*) system in
which L* is the luminance, a* is the red-green axis (-a*=green,
+a*=red) and b* is the yellow-blue axis (-b*=blue, +b*=yellow).
Thus, a* and b* express the shade of the skin.
[0604] For the evaluation of the change in coloration, the
important parameter is the .DELTA.E from, respectively, the time
t=0 when the composition is applied and t=15 minutes and from the
time t=0 and t=24 hours. The color difference is obtained using
Hunter's color differences formula in the L, a, b colorimetric
space:
[0605]
(.DELTA.E).sup.2=[(.DELTA.L).sup.2+(.DELTA.a).sup.2+(.DELTA.b).sup.-
2]. .DELTA.E reflects the darkening or overall intensity of the
color: the greater the value of .DELTA.E, the darker the color.
[0606] The results are indicated in the following table:
TABLE-US-00003 Colorimetry CIE L*a*b* (D65, 10.degree., SCE) After
15 minutes After 24 hours L* a* b* .DELTA.E L* a* b* .DELTA.E
Example A 91.8 -1.1 3.9 0.1 88.3 0.3 15.3 12.2 Example B 90.0 -0.1
8.4 5.1 76.8 9.3 28.2 30.7 Example C 90.9 -0.3 5.5 2.2 81.5 5.8
22.3 22.5
[0607] It is observed that the coloration appears more rapidly with
the DHA/dehydroascorbic acid and DHA/dehydroascorbic acid dimer
combinations according to the invention, compared with DHA used
alone (significant .DELTA.E after 15 minutes).
[0608] After 24 hours, the DHA/dehydroascorbic acid and
DHA/dehydroascorbic acid dimer combinations give a more red-brown
and more intense shade than DHA on Vitro-skin.TM. (larger a* for
the combinations than four DHA alone at 24 hours).
Example D
Nacreous Colored Gel
TABLE-US-00004 [0609] Phase Chemical name weight % A
Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 12.00 Mixture of
oxyethylenated/oxypropylenated 10.00 polydimethylsiloxane (18 EO/18
EO), cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and water (10/88/2) B Sodium
chloride 2.00 Disodium salt of brilliant yellow FCF (CI: 15985)
0.020 Disodium salt of fuchsin acid D (CI: 17200) 0.003
Non-stabilized caramel at 25% in water 1.50 Mica-titanium oxide
(71.5/28.5) (CI: 77019 + 77891) 1.20 Dipropylene glycol 10.00
Propylene glycol 23.40 Microbiologically clean deionized water qs
100 C Microbiologically clean deionized water 10.00
Dihydroxyacetone powder 2.50 Dehydroascorbic acid 2.50 D Denatured
96.degree. ethyl alcohol 5.00
[0610] Procedure:
[0611] The emulsion is prepared without heating. Phase A is weighed
out and stirred using a Moritz blender. Phase B is weighed out and
is emulsified in phase A, while uniformly increasing the speed.
Stirring is continued for 5 minutes before incorporating phase C
(DHA and DHAA dissolved in water). Stirring is continued for 5
minutes and phase D is then incorporated.
Example E
Cream Gel SPF 15
TABLE-US-00005 [0612] Phase Chemical name weight % A Isohexadecane
3.00 (C14/C15 linear) trialkyl citrate 2.00 Methyl, ethyl, propyl,
butyl, isobutyl p- 0.50 hydroxybenzoate/2-phenoxyethanol mixture
2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone 6.00
4-tert-Butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00 2-Ethylhexyl
salicylate 5.00 2-Ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate 10.00
Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 350 cSt) 1.00
.alpha.,.omega.-Dihydroxylated 3.00
polydimethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane mixture 5 cSt C12/C15
alkyl benzoate 2.00 Glyceryl monostearate/polyethylene glycol
stearate 1.50 mixture (100 EO) Mixture of arachidyl polyglucosides
and of arachidyl 2.25 and behenyl alcohols (15/85) B
Microbiologically clean deionized water qs 100 Glycerol 2.00
Propylene glycol 6.00 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, disodium
salt, 0.10 dihydrate Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 C Inverse
emulsion of polyacrylamidotauramide 0.50 (AMPS) in sodium salt form
(emulsifier: sorbitan oleate, inversion agent: Polysorbate-80) D
Microbiologically clean deionized water 10.00 Dihydroxyacetone
powder 2.50 Dehydroascorbic acid 2.50 E Denatured absolute ethyl
alcohol 4.20
[0613] Procedure:
[0614] Phases A and B are weighed out and melted separately at
80.degree. C. on a water bath. Phase B is stirred with a Moritz
blender, and phase A is then emulsified in phase B with vigorous
stirring. Stirring is continued for 5-10 minutes and the gel of
phase C is then incorporated. Stirring is continued until the
temperature of the emulsion has returned to room temperature. Phase
D (DHA and DHAA dissolved in water) is weighed out and this phase
is then incorporated into the emulsion with stirring. Stirring is
continued for 5 minutes and phase E is then incorporated.
Example F
Face and Body Milk
TABLE-US-00006 [0615] Phase Chemical name weight % A Oxyethylenated
lauryl alcohol (4 EO) 1.70 Oxyethylenated behenyl alcohol (10 EO)
1.70 Isononyl isononanoate 3.00 2-Phenoxyethanol 0.87 Ethyl
p-hydroxybenzoate 0.30 Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (viscosity 8 cSt)
7.00 B Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 Glycerol 5.00 Propylene glycol
4.00 Microbiologically clean deionized water qs 100 C
Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 7.00 D Inverse emulsion of
polyacrylamidotauramide 3.00 (AMPS) in sodium salt form
(emulsifier: sorbitan oleate, inversion agent: Polysorbate-80) E
Microbiologically clean deionized water 10.0 Dihydroxyacetone
powder 1.50 Dehydroascorbic acid 1.50 F Denatured absolute ethyl
alcohol 4.00
[0616] Procedure:
[0617] Phases A and B are weighed out and melted separately at
75.degree. C. on a water bath. Phase B is stirred in a Moritz
blender and phase A is then emulsified in phase B with vigorous
stirring. Stirring is continued for 5-10 minutes and phase C is
then incorporated. Stirring is continued for 5-10 minutes and the
gel of phase D is then incorporated. Stirring is continued until
the temperature of the emulsion has returned to room temperature,
Phase E (DHA and DHAA dissolved in water) is weighed out and this
phase is then incorporated into the emulsion with stirring.
Stirring is continued for 5 minutes and phase F is then
incorporated.
Example G
Tinted Jelly for the Legs
TABLE-US-00007 [0618] Phases Chemical name weight % A
Microbiologically clean deionized water qs 100 B
Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, tetrasodium salt 0.05 Anhydrous
caffeine (1,3,7-trimethylxanthine) 0.50 Disodium salt of brilliant
yellow FCF (CI: 15985) 0.005 Disodium salt of fuchsin acid D (CI:
17200) 0.001 Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20 Polyvinyl alcohol
(viscosity: 50; degree of 0.20 hydrolysis: 88%) Glycerol 5.00
Propylene glycol 5.00 Microbiologically clean deionized water 20.0
C Xanthan: polysaccharides: 0.30 glucose/mannose/glucuronic acid
(40/30/30) Sodium acrylamido-2- 1.25
methylpropanesulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer in powder
form D Microbiologically clean deionized water 10.0 Non-stabilized
caramel at 25% in water 1.00 E Dihydroxyacetone powder 3.50
Dehydroascorbic acid 1.50 F Denatured absolute ethyl alcohol
15.00
[0619] Procedure:
[0620] Phase A is heated to 80.degree. C. and phase B is then added
thereto with stirring using a Rayneri blender. The temperature is
allowed to fall to 60.degree. C. and phase C (gelling agents) is
then incorporated. The gel is allowed to swell and phase D (caramel
in water) is added at 40.degree. C. Stirring is continued for 5-10
minutes and phase E (DHA and DHAA dissolved in water) is then
incorporated. Stirring is continued for 5 minutes and phase F is
then incorporated.
Example H
Facial Care
TABLE-US-00008 [0621] Phases Chemical name weight % A (C14/C15
linear) trialkyl citrate 2.00 2-Phenoxyethanol 0.35 Ethyl
p-hydroxybenzoate 0.30 Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 350 cSt)
1.00 .alpha.,.omega.-Dihydroxylated 1.00
polydimethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane mixture 5 cSt C12/C15
alkyl benzoate 3.00 Mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and of cetyl
and 7.00 stearyl alcohols (12/46/42) B Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate
0.34 Glycerol 4.00 Propylene glycol 3.00 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic
acid, disodium salt, 0.10 dihydrate Microbiologically clean
deionized water qs 100 C Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 8
cSt) 4.00 D Microbiologically clean deionized water 10.00
Dihydroxyacetone powder 2.00 Dehydroascorbic acid 2.00
[0622] Procedure:
[0623] Phases A and B are weighed out and melted separately at
75.degree. C. on a water bath. Phase B is stirred with a Moritz
blender, and phase A is then emulsified in phase B with vigorous
stirring. Stirring is continued for 5-10 minutes and phase C is
then incorporated. Stirring is continued until the temperature of
the emulsion has returned to room temperature. Phase D (DHA and
DHAA dissolved in water) is weighed out and this phase is then
incorporated into the emulsion with stirring.
Example I
Tan-Prolonging Aftersun Milk
TABLE-US-00009 [0624] Phases Chemical name weight % A Glyceryl
mono/distearate/polyethylene glycol 2.00 stearate mixture (100 EO)
Glyceryl mono/distearate/oxyethylenated 4.00 cetylstearyl alcohol
mixture (15 EO) Stearyl alcohol (95% C18) 3.00 2-Phenoxyethanol
0.70 Ethyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.30 Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity:
350 cSt) 1.00 C12/C15 alkyl benzoate 4.00 B Microbiologically clean
deionized water qs 100 Glycerol 4.00 Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.20
C Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 5.00 .alpha.,.omega.-Dihydroxylated
5.000 polydimethylsiloxane/cyclopentadimethylsiloxane mixture
(14.7/85.3) D Inverse emulsion of polyacrylamidotauramide 0.80
(AMPS) in sodium salt form (emulsifier: sorbitan oleate, inversion
agent: Polysorbate-80) E Microbiologically clean deionized water
10.00 Dihydroxyacetone powder 2.50 Dehydroascorbic acid 2.50 F
DL-.alpha.-Tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) 0.50 G Denatured
absolute ethyl alcohol 3.00
[0625] Procedure:
[0626] Phases A and B are weighed out and melted separately at
75.degree. C. on a water bath. Phase B is stirred in a Moritz
blender and phase A is then emulsified in phase B with vigorous
stirring. Stirring is continued for 5-10 minutes and phase C is
then incorporated. Stirring is continued for 5-10 minutes and the
gel of phase D is then incorporated. Stirring is continued until
the temperature of the emulsion has returned to room temperature.
Phase E (DHA and DHAA dissolved in water) is weighed out and this
phase is then incorporated into the emulsion with stirring.
Stirring is continued for 5 minutes and phase F is then
incorporated, followed by phase G.
[0627] Each patent, patent application, publication, text and
literature article/report cited or indicated herein is hereby
expressly incorporated by reference in its entirety.
[0628] While the invention has been described in terms of various
specific and preferred embodiments, the skilled artisan will
appreciate that various modifications, substitutions, omissions,
and changes may be made without departing from the spirit thereof.
Accordingly, it is intended that the scope of the present invention
be limited solely by the scope of the following claims, including
equivalents thereof.
* * * * *