U.S. patent application number 12/221854 was filed with the patent office on 2009-02-19 for hair care composition.
This patent application is currently assigned to Conopco, Inc. d/b/a Unilever, Conopco, Inc. d/b/a Unilever. Invention is credited to Cheryl Anne Taylor.
Application Number | 20090044822 12/221854 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 38917696 |
Filed Date | 2009-02-19 |
United States Patent
Application |
20090044822 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Taylor; Cheryl Anne |
February 19, 2009 |
Hair care composition
Abstract
A method for relaxing hair comprising the following steps: i)
applying to the hair for a sufficient period of time to lanthionize
the hair a relaxer composition; ii) terminating the lanthionization
process; iii) applying to the lanthionized hair a
post-lanthionization composition comprising a monoglyceride having
a C16 to C22 alkyl ester group.
Inventors: |
Taylor; Cheryl Anne;
(Bebington, GB) |
Correspondence
Address: |
UNILEVER PATENT GROUP
800 SYLVAN AVENUE, AG West S. Wing
ENGLEWOOD CLIFFS
NJ
07632-3100
US
|
Assignee: |
Conopco, Inc. d/b/a
Unilever
|
Family ID: |
38917696 |
Appl. No.: |
12/221854 |
Filed: |
August 7, 2008 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
132/203 ;
132/200 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/19 20130101; A61Q
5/12 20130101; A61K 8/375 20130101; A61Q 5/04 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
132/203 ;
132/200 |
International
Class: |
A45D 7/00 20060101
A45D007/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Aug 10, 2007 |
EP |
EP07114205 |
Claims
1. A method for relaxing hair comprising the following steps: i)
applying to the hair for a sufficient period of time to lanthionize
the hair a relaxer composition; ii) terminating the lanthionization
process; iii) applying to the lanthionized hair a
post-lanthionization composition comprising a monoglyceride having
a C16 to C22 alkyl ester group.
2. A method according to claim 1 in which the total level of
mono-glyceride within the post-treatment composition is from 3.5 to
7.5 wt %.
3. A method according to claim 1 in which the monoglyceride is
glycerol monooleate.
4. A method according to claim 1 in which the post-treatment
composition further comprises a cationic conditioning
surfactant.
5. A method according to claim 4 in which the weight ratio of
cationic conditioning agent to monoglyceride within the
post-treatment composition is from 1:5 to 5:1.
6. A method according to claim 1 in which the post-treatment
composition further comprises a silicone.
7. A method according to claim 1 in which the relaxer composition
comprises at least one hydroxide ion generator which generates
hydroxide ions in situ.
8. Use of a monoglyceride having a C16 to C22 alkyl ester group in
a post-treatment composition for decreasing hair breakage.
Description
[0001] The present invention is directed to a hair relaxing
composition and a method of relaxing hair.
[0002] Hair relaxers are compositions used to relax or straighten
curly or kinky hair. Most hair relaxers straighten hair by
disrupting disulfide bonds of the hair fibres with an alkaline
agent or reducing agent. The chemical disruption of disulfide bonds
is usually combined with mechanical straightening of the hair (eg
by combing). The straightening process is generally terminated by
rinsing and/or the application of a neutralizing composition.
[0003] A source of hydroxide ions is usually the preferred alkaline
agent used to straighten hair. The term "lanthionizing" is used
when referring to hair relaxed or straightened by hydroxide ions,
as the straightening reaction sequence with hydroxide ions results
in lanthionine residue formation.
[0004] Most frequently, commercial relaxing compositions are in the
form of gels or emulsions and contain varying proportions of strong
water-soluble bases, such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH). Also used are
slightly-soluble metal hydroxides, such as calcium hydroxide
(Ca(OH).sub.2), which can be converted in situ to soluble bases,
such as guanidine hydroxide.
[0005] Hair relaxers leave the hair treated therewith feeling
rough, unconditioned and brittle. The present invention relates to
hair relaxing systems which leave the hair less prone to breakage
and feeling smooth.
[0006] In one aspect the present invention relates to a method for
relaxing hair comprising the following steps: [0007] i) applying to
the hair for a sufficient period of time to lanthionize the hair a
relaxer composition; [0008] ii) terminating the lanthionization
process; [0009] iii) applying to the lanthionized hair a
post-lanthionization composition comprising a mono glyceride having
an C16 to C22 alkyl ester group.
[0010] A further aspect of the invention is the use of a mono
glyceride having an C16 to C22 alkyl ester group a post-treatment
composition for decreasing hair breakage.
[0011] As disclosed above the present invention relates to
post-treatment composition for application after application of a
relaxing composition. In the context of the present invention
"relaxing composition" means a composition comprising at least one
hydroxide ion generator in an amount sufficient to effect
lanthionization of keratin fibres. The term post-treatment refers
to a treatment applied to the hair after the lathionization
process, and preferably after any subsequent termination
process.
[0012] The hydroxide ion generator may be chosen from those
compositions that produce hydroxide ions appropriate for the
lanthionization of hair. As used herein, "hydroxide ion generator"
refers to both compounds and compositions that generate hydroxide
ions, and compounds and compositions that comprise hydroxide ions.
Hydroxide ion generators may, for example, be chosen from
traditional "lye" and "no lye" hair relaxer compositions and other
soluble or slightly soluble hydroxide ion sources. Preferably, the
hydroxide ion is generated in situ. Preferred hydroxide ion
generators are strong water-soluble bases, particularly preferred
is sodium hydroxide.
[0013] The post lanthionization composition comprises a
monoglyceride having an C16 to C22 alkyl ester group.
[0014] Preferably the mono glyceride comprises a long chain
unsaturated group, and is more preferably glyceryl monololeate.
[0015] The level of monoglyceride within the post-treatment
composition is preferably from 1 to 10 wt %, more preferably from
3.5 to 7.5 wt % of the total composition.
[0016] The post treatment composition will preferably comprise one
or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable
and suitable for topical application to the hair.
[0017] Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic
surfactants, used singly or in admixture.
[0018] Cationic surfactants useful in compositions of the invention
contain amino or quaternary ammonium hydrophilic moieties which are
positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the
present invention.
[0019] Examples of suitable cationic surfactants are those
corresponding to the general formula:
[N(R.sub.1)(R.sub.2)(R.sub.3)(R.sub.4)].sup.+(X).sup.-
in which R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3, and R.sub.4 are independently
selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 1 to 22 carbon atoms,
or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido,
hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms;
and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen,
(e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate,
phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate radicals.
[0020] The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and
hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino
groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12
carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
[0021] The most preferred cationic surfactants for conditioner
compositions of the present invention are monoalkyl quaternary
ammonium compounds in which the alkyl chain length is C8 to
C14.
[0022] Suitable examples of such materials correspond to the
general formula:
[N(R.sub.5)(R.sub.6)(R.sub.7)(R.sub.8)].sup.+(X).sup.-
in which R.sub.5 is a hydrocarbyl chain having 8 to 14 carbon atoms
or a functionalised hydrocarbyl chain with 8 to 14 carbon atoms and
containing ether, ester, amido or amino moieties present as
substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, and R.sub.6,
R.sub.7 and R.sub.8 are independently selected from (a) hydrocarbyl
chains of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, or (b) functionalised
hydrocarbyl chains having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms and
containing one or more aromatic, ether, ester, amido or amino
moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical
chain, and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from
halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate,
glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate
radicals.
[0023] The functionalised hydrocarbyl chains (b) may suitably
contain one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy
(preferably C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably
C.sub.1-C.sub.3 polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl,
alkylester, and combinations thereof.
[0024] Preferably the hydrocarbyl chains R.sub.1 have 12 to 14
carbon atoms, most preferably 12 carbon atoms. They may be derived
from source oils which contain substantial amounts of fatty acids
having the desired hydrocarbyl chain length. For example, the fatty
acids from palm kernel oil or coconut oil can be used as a source
of C8 to C12 hydrocarbyl chains.
[0025] Typical monoalkyl quaternary ammonium compounds of the above
general formula for use in shampoo compositions of the invention
include: [0026] (i) lauryl trimethylammonium chloride (available
commercially as Arquad C35 ex-Akzo); cocodimethyl benzyl ammonium
chloride (available commercially as Arquad DMCB-80 ex-Akzo) [0027]
(ii) compounds of the general formula:
[0027]
[N(R.sub.1)(R.sub.2)((CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.xH)((CH.sub.2CH.sub.-
2O).sub.yH)].sup.+(X).sup.-
in which: x+y is an integer from 2 to 20; R.sub.1 is a hydrocarbyl
chain having 8 to 14, preferably 12 to 14, most preferably 12
carbon atoms or a functionalised hydrocarbyl chain with 8 to 14,
preferably 12 to 14, most preferably 12 carbon atoms and containing
ether, ester, amido or amino moieties present as substituents or as
linkages in the radical chain; R.sub.2 is a C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl
group or benzyl group, preferably methyl, and X is a salt-forming
anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride,
bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate,
sulphate, methosulphate and alkylsulphate radicals.
[0028] Suitable examples are PEG-n lauryl ammonium chlorides (where
n is the PEG chain length), such as PEG-2 cocomonium chloride
(available commercially as Ethoquad C12 ex-Akzo Nobel); PEG-2
cocobenzyl ammonium chloride (available commercially as Ethoquad
CB/12 ex-Akzo Nobel); PEG-5 cocomonium methosulphate (available
commercially as Rewoquat CPEM ex-Rewo); PEG-15 cocomonium chloride
(available commercially as Ethoquad C/25 ex-Akzo). [0029] (iii)
compounds of the general formula:
[0029]
[N(R.sub.1)(R.sub.2)(R.sub.3)((CH.sub.2).sub.nOH)].sup.+(X).sup.-
in which: n is an integer from 1 to 4, preferably 2; R.sub.1 is a
hydrocarbyl chain having 8 to 14, preferably 12 to 14, most
preferably 12 carbon atoms; R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 are independently
selected from C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl groups, and are preferably
methyl, and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from
halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate,
glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate
radicals.
[0030] Suitable examples are lauryldimethylhydroxyethylammonium
chloride (available commercially as Prapagen HY ex-Clariant).
[0031] Mixtures of any of the foregoing cationic surfactants
compounds may also be suitable.
[0032] Examples of suitable cationic surfactants include:
quaternary ammonium chlorides, e.g. alkyltrimethylammonium
chlorides wherein the alkyl group has from about 8 to 22 carbon
atoms, for example octyltrimethylammonium chloride,
dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium
chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride,
octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium
chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride,
didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium
chloride, tallow trimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium
chloride, and the corresponding salts thereof, e.g., bromides,
hydroxides. Cetylpyridinium chloride or salts thereof, e.g.,
chloride
Quaternium -5
Quaternium -31
Quaternium -18
[0033] and mixtures thereof.
[0034] In the conditioners of the invention, the level of cationic
surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 10, more preferably 0.05 to
7, most preferably 0.5 to 5 wt % of the total composition.
[0035] The weight ratio of cationic conditioning agent to
monoglyceride within the post-treatment composition is preferably
from 1:10 to 10:1, more preferably from 1:5 to 5:1.
[0036] Post treatment compositions of the invention preferably
additionally comprise a fatty alcohol material. The combined use of
fatty alcohol materials and cationic surfactants in conditioning
compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because
this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the
cationic surfactant is dispersed.
[0037] By "fatty alcohol material" is meant a fatty alcohol, an
alkoxylated fatty alcohol, or a mixture thereof.
[0038] Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon
atoms, more preferably 16 to 20. Examples of suitable fatty
alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures
thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that
they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of
compositions of the invention.
[0039] Alkoxylated, (e.g. ethoxylated or propoxylated) fatty
alcohols having from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl
chain can be used in place of, or in addition to, the fatty
alcohols themselves. Suitable examples include ethylene glycol
cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene (4)
cetyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0040] The level of fatty alcohol material in conditioners of the
invention is suitably from 0.01 to 15, preferably from 0.1 to 10,
and more preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt %. The weight ratio of
cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 10:1 to 1:10,
preferably from 4:1 to 1:8, optimally from 1:1 to 1:7, for example
1:3.
[0041] Post treatment compositions of the invention can also
contain a cationic polymer.
[0042] The compositions of the invention can contain, emulsified
droplets of a silicone conditioning agent, for enhancing
conditioning performance. The silicone is insoluble in the aqueous
matrix of the composition and so is present in an emulsified form,
with the silicone present as dispersed droplets.
[0043] Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in
particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation
dimethicone. Also suitable for use compositions of the invention
(particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes
having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation
dimethiconol. Also suitable for use in compositions of the
invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of
cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 96/31188. These
materials can impart body, volume and stylability to hair, as well
as good wet and dry conditioning.
[0044] The viscosity of the emulsified silicone itself (not the
emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is typically
at least 10,000 cst. In general we have found that conditioning
performance increases with increased viscosity. Accordingly, the
viscosity of the silicone itself is preferably at least 60,000 cst,
most preferably at least 500,000 cst, ideally at least 1,000,000
cst. Preferably the viscosity does not exceed 10.sup.9 cst for ease
of formulation.
[0045] Emulsified silicones for use in the shampoo compositions of
the invention will typically have an average silicone droplet size
in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more
preferably less than 10 .mu.m. We have found that reducing the
droplet size generally improves conditioning performance. Most
preferably the average silicone droplet size of the emulsified
silicone in the composition is less than 2 .mu.m, ideally it ranges
from 0.01 to 1 .mu.m. Silicone emulsions having an average silicone
droplet size of .ltoreq.0.15 .mu.m are generally termed
microemulsions.
[0046] Suitable silicone emulsions for use in the invention are
also commercially available in a pre-emulsified form.
[0047] Examples of suitable pre-formed emulsions include emulsions
DC2-1766, DC2-1784, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all
available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions
of dimethiconol. Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in a
pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation.
A preferred example is the material available from Dow Corning as
DC X2-1787, which is an emulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum.
A further preferred example is the material available from Dow
Corning as DC X2-1391, which is a microemulsion of cross-linked
dimethiconol gum.
[0048] A further preferred class of silicones for inclusion in
shampoos and conditioners of the invention are amino functional
silicones. By "amino functional silicone" is meant a silicone
containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group,
or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0049] Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include
[0050] (i) polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation
"amodimethicone", and the general formula:
[0050]
HO--[Si(CH.sub.3).sub.2--O--].sub.x--[Si(OH)(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.s-
ub.2--NH--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2NH.sub.2)--O--].sub.y--H
in which x and y are numbers depending on the molecular weight of
the polymer, generally such that the molecular weight is between
about 5,000 and 500,000. [0051] (ii) polysiloxanes having the
general formula:
[0051]
R'.sub.aG.sub.3-a-Si(OSiG.sub.2).sub.n-(OSiG.sub.bR'.sub.2-b).sub-
.m--O--SiG.sub.3-a-R'.sub.a
in which: G is selected from H, phenyl, OH or C.sub.1-8 alkyl, e.g.
methyl; a is 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 0; b is 0 or
1, preferably 1; m and n are numbers such that (m+n) can range from
1 to 2000, preferably from 50 to 150; m is a number from 1 to 2000,
preferably from 1 to 10; n is a number from 0 to 1999, preferably
from 49 to 149, and R' is a monovalent radical of formula
--C.sub.qH.sub.2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an
amino functional group selected from the following:
--NR''--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--N(R'').sub.2
--N(R'').sub.2
--N.sup.+(R'').sub.3A.sup.-
--N.sup.+H(R'').sub.2A.sup.-
--N.sup.+H.sub.2(R'')A.sup.-
--N(R'')--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--N.sup.+H.sub.2(R'')A.sup.-
in which R'' is selected from H, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated
monovalent hydrocarbon radical, e.g. C.sub.1-20 alkyl, and A is a
halide ion, e.g. chloride or bromide.
[0052] Suitable amino functional silicones corresponding to the
above formula include those polysiloxanes termed
"trimethylsilylamodimethicone" as depicted below, and which are
sufficiently water insoluble so as to be useful in compositions of
the invention:
Si(CH3)3-O--[Si(CH3)2-O-]x-[Si(CH3)(R--NH--CH2CH2NH2)-O-]y-Si(CH3)3
wherein x+y is a number from about 50 to about 500, and wherein R
is an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms. Preferably,
the number x+y is in the range of from about 100 to about 300.
[0053] (iii) quaternary silicone polymers having the general
formula:
[0053]
{(R.sup.1)(R.sup.2)(R.sup.3)N.sup.+CH.sub.2CH(OH)CH.sub.2O(CH.sub-
.2).sub.3[Si(R.sup.4)(R.sup.5)--O--].sub.n--Si(R.sup.6)(R.sup.7)--(CH.sub.-
2).sub.3--O--CH.sub.2CH(OH)CH.sub.2N.sup.+(R.sup.8)(R.sup.9)(R.sup.10)}(X.-
sup.-).sub.2
wherein R.sup.1 and R.sup.10 may be the same or different and may
be independently selected from H, saturated or unsaturated long or
short chain alk(en)yl, branched chain alk(en)yl and C.sub.5-C.sub.8
cyclic ring systems; R.sup.2 thru' R.sup.9 may be the same or
different and may be independently selected from H, straight or
branched chain lower alk(en)yl, and C.sub.5-C.sub.8 cyclic ring
systems; n is a number within the range of about 60 to about 120,
preferably about 80, and X.sup.- is preferably acetate, but may
instead be for example halide, organic carboxylate, organic
sulphonate or the like. Suitable quaternary silicone polymers of
this class are described in EP-A-0 530 974.
[0054] Amino functional silicones suitable for use in shampoos and
conditioners of the invention will typically have a mole % amine
functionality in the range of from about 0.1 to about 8.0 mole %,
preferably from about 0.1 to about 5.0 mole %, most preferably from
about 0.1 to about 2.0 mole %. In general the amine concentration
should not exceed about 8.0 mole % since we have found that too
high an amine concentration can be detrimental to total silicone
deposition and therefore conditioning performance.
[0055] The viscosity of the amino functional silicone is not
particularly critical and can suitably range from about 100 to
about 500,000 cst.
[0056] Specific examples of amino functional silicones suitable for
use in the invention are the aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166,
DC2-8466, and DC2-8950-114 (all ex Dow Corning), and GE 1149-75,
(ex General Electric Silicones).
[0057] Also suitable are emulsions of amino functional silicone
oils with non ionic and/or cationic surfactant.
[0058] Suitably such pre-formed emulsions will have an average
amino functional silicone droplet size in the shampoo composition
of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than
10 .mu.m. Again, we have found that reducing the droplet size
generally improves conditioning performance. Most preferably the
average amino functional silicone droplet size in the composition
is less than 2 .mu.m ideally it ranges from 0.01 to 1 .mu.m.
[0059] Pre-formed emulsions of amino functional silicone are also
available from suppliers of silicone oils such as Dow Corning and
General Electric. Specific examples include DC929 Cationic
Emulsion, DC939 Cationic Emulsion, and the non-ionic emulsions
DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177 and DC2-8154 (all ex Dow Corning).
[0060] An example of a quaternary silicone polymer useful in the
present invention is the material K3474, ex Goldschmidt.
[0061] Compositions according to the present invention may also
comprise a dispersed, non-volatile, water-insoluble oily
conditioning agent.
[0062] This component will be dispersed in the composition in the
form of droplets, which form a separate, discontinuous phase from
the aqueous, continuous phase of the composition. In other words,
the oily conditioning agent will be present in the shampoo
composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0063] By "insoluble" is meant that the material is not soluble in
water (distilled or equivalent) at a concentration of 0.1% (w/w),
at 250.degree. C.
[0064] Suitably, the D.sub.3,2 average droplet size of the oily
conditioning component is at least 0.4, preferably at least 0.8,
and more preferably at least 1 .mu.m. Additionally, the D.sub.3,2
average droplet size of the oily conditioning component is
preferably no greater than 10, more preferably no greater 8, more
preferably no greater than 5, yet more preferably no greater than
4, and most preferably no greater than 3.5 .mu.m.
[0065] The oily conditioning agent may suitably be selected from
oily or fatty materials, and mixtures thereof.
[0066] Oily or fatty materials are preferred conditioning agents in
the shampoo compositions of the invention for adding shine to the
hair and also enhancing dry combing and dry hair feel.
[0067] Preferred oily and fatty materials will generally have a
viscosity of less than 5 Pas, more preferably less than 1 Pas, and
most preferably less than 0.5 Pas, e.g. 0.1 Pas and under as
measured at 25.degree. C. with a Brookfield Viscometer (e.g.
Brookfield RV) using spindle 3 operating at 100 rpm.
[0068] Oily and fatty materials with higher viscosities may be
used. For example, materials with viscosities as high as 65 Pas may
be used. The viscosity of such materials (i.e. materials with
viscosities of 5 Pas and greater) can be measured by means of a
glass capillary viscometer as set out further in Dow Corning
Corporate Test Method CTM004, Jul. 20, 1970.
[0069] Suitable oily or fatty materials are selected from
hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters and mixtures thereof.
[0070] Hydrocarbon oils include cyclic hydrocarbons, straight chain
aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated), and branched
chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated). Straight
chain hydrocarbon oils will preferably contain from about 12 to
about 30 carbon atoms. Branched chain hydrocarbon oils can and
typically may contain higher numbers of carbon atoms. Also suitable
are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as
C.sub.2-C.sub.6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers can be straight or
branched chain polymers. The straight chain polymers will typically
be relatively short in length, having a total number of carbon
atoms as described above for straight chain hydrocarbons in
general. The branched chain polymers can have substantially higher
chain length. The number average molecular weight of such materials
can vary widely, but will typically be up to about 2000, preferably
from about 200 to about 1000, more preferably from about 300 to
about 600.
[0071] Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon oils include
paraffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane,
saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated
tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and
unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Branched-chain
isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length
hydrocarbons, can also be used. Exemplary branched-chain isomers
are highly branched saturated or unsaturated alkanes, such as the
permethyl-substituted isomers, e.g., the permethyl-substituted
isomers of hexadecane and eicosane, such as
2,2,4,4,6,6,8,8-dimethyl-10-methylundecane and
2,2,4,4,6,6-dimethyl-8-methylnonane, sold by Permethyl Corporation.
A further example of a hydrocarbon polymer is polybutene, such as
the copolymer of isobutylene and butene. A commercially available
material of this type is L-14 polybutene from Amoco Chemical Co.
(Chicago, Ill., U.S.A.).
[0072] Particularly preferred hydrocarbon oils are the various
grades of mineral oils. Mineral oils are clear oily liquids
obtained from petroleum oil, from which waxes have been removed,
and the more volatile fractions removed by distillation. The
fraction distilling between 250.degree. C. to 300.degree. C. is
termed mineral oil, and it consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons
ranging from C.sub.16H.sub.34 to C.sub.21H.sub.44. Suitable
commercially available materials of this type include Sirius M85
and Sirius M125, all available from Silkolene.
[0073] Suitable fatty esters are characterised by having at least
10 carbon atoms, and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived
from fatty acids or alcohols, e.g., monocarboxylic acid esters,
polyhydric alcohol esters, and di- and tricarboxylic acid esters.
The hydrocarbyl radicals of the fatty esters thereof can also
include or have covalently bonded thereto other compatible
functionalities, such as amides and alkoxy moieties, such as ethoxy
or ether linkages.
[0074] Monocarboxylic acid esters include esters of alcohols and/or
acids of the formula R'COOR in which R' and R independently denote
alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R
is at least 10, preferably at least 20.
[0075] Specific examples include, for example, alkyl and alkenyl
esters of fatty acids having aliphatic chains with from about 10 to
about 22 carbon atoms, and alkyl and/or alkenyl fatty alcohol
carboxylic acid esters having an alkyl and/or alkenyl
alcohol-derived aliphatic chain with about 10 to about 22 carbon
atoms, benzoate esters of fatty alcohols having from about 12 to 20
carbon atoms.
[0076] The monocarboxylic acid ester need not necessarily contain
at least one chain with at least 10 carbon atoms, so long as the
total number of aliphatic chain carbon atoms is at least 10.
Examples include isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl
laurate, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate,
isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate, decyl stearate, isopropyl
isostearate, dihexyldecyl adipate, lauryl lactate, myristyl
lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl
myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, and oleyl adipate.
[0077] Di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can
also be used. These include, for example, esters of C.sub.4-C.sub.8
dicarboxylic acids such as C.sub.1-C.sub.22 esters (preferably
C.sub.1-C.sub.6) of succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid,
hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, and octanoic acid. Examples include
diisopropyl adipate, diisohexyl adipate, and diisopropyl sebacate.
Other specific examples include isocetyl stearoyl stearate, and
tristearyl citrate.
[0078] Polyhydric alcohol esters include alkylene glycol esters,
for example ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters,
diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene
glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and
di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol monooleate,
polypropylene glycol monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol
monostearate, polyglycerol poly-fatty acid esters, ethoxylated
glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate,
1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid
ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty
acid esters and mono-, di- and triglycerides.
[0079] Particularly preferred fatty esters are mono-, di- and
triglycerides, more specifically the mono-, di-, and tri-esters of
glycerol and long chain carboxylic acids such as C.sub.1-C.sub.22
carboxylic acids. A variety of these types of materials can be
obtained from vegetable and animal fats and oils, such as coconut
oil, castor oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, corn
oil, olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil,
sesame oil, peanut oil, lanolin and soybean oil. Synthetic oils
include triolein and tristearin glyceryl dilaurate.
[0080] Specific examples of preferred materials include cocoa
butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut
oil.
[0081] The oily or fatty material is suitably present at a level of
from 0.05 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, more preferably from
about 0.5 to 3 wt %.
[0082] In hair treatment compositions containing a conditioning
agent, it is preferred that a cationic polymer also be present.
[0083] The compositions of the present invention may also contain
adjuvants suitable for hair care. Generally such ingredients are
included individually at a level of up to 2, preferably up to 1 wt
% of the total composition.
[0084] Among suitable hair care adjuvants, are: [0085] (i) natural
hair root nutrients, such as amino acids and sugars. Examples of
suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine,
glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine,
and/or precursors and derivatives thereof. The amino acids may be
added singly, in mixtures, or in the form of peptides, e.g. di- and
tripeptides. The amino acids may also be added in the form of a
protein hydrolysate, such as a keratin or collagen hydrolysate.
Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These may be
added singly or in the form of, e.g. fruit extracts. A particularly
preferred combination of natural hair root nutrients for inclusion
in compositions of the invention is isoleucine and glucose. A
particularly preferred amino acid nutrient is arginine. [0086] (ii)
hair fibre benefit agents. Examples are: [0087] ceramides, for
moisturising the fibre and maintaining cuticle integrity. Ceramides
are available by extraction from natural sources, or as synthetic
ceramides and pseudoceramides. A preferred ceramide is Ceramide II,
ex Quest. Mixtures of ceramides may also be suitable, such as
Ceramides LS, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques.
[0088] This post treatment composition may be in any form
preferably in the form chosen from emulsions, solutions,
suspensions, gels, creams, and pastes.
[0089] The compositions of the present invention may be provided as
a multicomponent kit for straightening hair comprising at least two
separate components. A first component of the kit contains
comprises at least one composition for generating hydroxide ions to
relax the hair. The second component comprises at least one
composition comprising at least one basic amino acid.
[0090] A preferred method of terminating the lanthionization
process is by rinsing the hair with water.
[0091] The invention will now be illustrated by the following
non-limiting Examples.
EXAMPLES
TABLE-US-00001 [0092] TABLE 1 Wt % Wt % Example Example Trade Name
Chemical Name Supplier A 1 Laurex CS Cetyl/stearyl Huntsman 4.80
4.80 Alcohol Perfecta Petroleum Jelly- Crompton 0.10 0.10
Petrolatum White Superla No 7 White Mineral Amoco 0.25 0.25 Oil
CrodalanLA Cetyl Acetate and Croda 0.90 0.90 Stearyl Acetate and
Oleyl Acetate and Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol Arquad 16-29
Cetrimonium Akzo Nobel 4.30 4.30 Chloride 29% (CTAC) Glycerol
Glycerol Sigma/ 0.50 0.50 Aldrich Natrosol Hydroxyethyl- Hercules
0.30 0.30 250HHR celluslose Glycerol Monomuls Cognis 5.0
monololeate 90-018 Water and to 100% to 100% minors
[0093] A series of switches were treated with the compositions of
table 1 immediately after the lanthionization process. 2.5 gm 6''
switches of African hair were immersed in 150 ml of 3.5% aqueous
sodium hydroxide for 30 minutes at ambient conditions. The switches
were then rinsed under tepid tap water for 1 minute. This process
was repeated 4 times. After the final treatment the switches were
placed in 150 ml of post-lanthionization composition for 15 minutes
followed by rinsing and oven drying for 45 minutes at 50.degree.
C.
Sensory Evaluation
[0094] The switches were assessed for the following sensory
attributes; dryness, brittle, silkiness and gloss using the paired
comparison Bradley-Terry analyses. (3 product testing).
[0095] Examples of the invention were directly compared to the
comparative Examples.
TABLE-US-00002 Active, Base Non-brittle Std Err Non-dry Std Err
Gloss Std Err Silky Std Err Example 1 preference 66.20 (18.07)
69.95 (18.09) 67.95 (19.17) 66.35 (18.53) scores
[0096] Numbers refer to the percentage of panelists who selected
Example 1 as scoring higher on a attribute compared with
comparative Example A (control conditioner with no active).
In-Vitro Hair Breakage Test
[0097] A set of switches were treated as described above.
[0098] The weight of the switches was recorded. The switches were
mounted in an automatic combing device and subjected to a total of
6 hours dry combing. The final weight was recorded.
[0099] The percentage breakage was calculated as the final
weight/initial weight.times.100.
TABLE-US-00003 Treatment % Of Broken Fibres Std Dev Control 24.5
5.2 relaxed .times.4 and no post treatment Example A Post treatment
5.6 2.2 Example 1 Post treatment 2.5 1.5
* * * * *