U.S. patent application number 11/820695 was filed with the patent office on 2008-12-25 for core spun yarn and woven stretch fabric.
Invention is credited to Chi Ping Cheng.
Application Number | 20080318485 11/820695 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 39811873 |
Filed Date | 2008-12-25 |
United States Patent
Application |
20080318485 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Cheng; Chi Ping |
December 25, 2008 |
Core spun yarn and woven stretch fabric
Abstract
A core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament
and an elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament has a denier from
about 20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from
20 to 140. The polyester filament is about 2 weight percent to
about 60 weight percent, based on total weight of the yarn and the
elastomeric fiber is from about 1 percent to about 40 percent,
based on total weight of the yarn. The elastomeric fiber may have
higher draft than the bi-component polyester fiber. The polyester
filament comprises poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least
one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene
terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and said
elastomeric fiber is spandex. The yarn may include a sheath of at
least one staple fiber. The disclosure also includes a fabric of
the bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.
Inventors: |
Cheng; Chi Ping; (New
Territories, CN) |
Correspondence
Address: |
ALIX YALE & RISTAS LLP
750 MAIN STREET, SUITE 1400
HARTFORD
CT
06103
US
|
Family ID: |
39811873 |
Appl. No.: |
11/820695 |
Filed: |
June 20, 2007 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
442/182 ;
428/373 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D03D 15/00 20130101;
D10B 2331/04 20130101; D02G 3/324 20130101; D03D 13/008 20130101;
D02G 3/328 20130101; D10B 2401/061 20130101; D01H 1/02 20130101;
Y10T 428/2929 20150115; D03D 15/47 20210101; D10B 2201/02 20130101;
D10B 2201/24 20130101; D10B 2211/02 20130101; D02G 3/36 20130101;
Y10T 442/3008 20150401; D10B 2331/10 20130101; D03D 15/56 20210101;
D03D 13/004 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
442/182 ;
428/373 |
International
Class: |
D03D 15/08 20060101
D03D015/08; D02G 3/00 20060101 D02G003/00 |
Claims
1. A core spun yarn comprising: a bi-component polyester filament;
and an elastomeric fiber, said polyester filament having a denier
from about 20 to about 150 and said elastomeric fiber having a
denier from 20 to 140.
2. The yarn of claim 1 in which the polyester filament is about 2
weight percent to about 60 weight percent, based on total weight of
the yarn and elastomeric fiber is from about 1 percent to about 40
percent, based on total weight of the yarn.
3. The yarn of claim 2 wherein the elastomeric filament has a
higher draft than the bi-component polyester filament.
4. The yarn of claim 3 wherein the bi-component polyester filament
is drafted from 1.01 to about 1.3 times its original length and the
elastomeric yarn is drafted from 2.5 to about 4.5 times its
original length.
5. The yarn in claim 1 wherein said polyester filament comprises
poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected
from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly
(tetramethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is
spandex.
6. The yarn of claim 5 further including in a sheath of at least
one staple fiber.
7. The yarn of claim 6 wherein said staple fiber is selected from a
group consisting of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, polyester and
blends thereof.
8. The yarn of claim 6 comprising a sheath of at least one hard
fiber having an English cotton count (Ne) from about 4 to about
60.
9. The yarn of claim 6 wherein the bi-component polyester fabric is
drafted from about 1.01 to about 1.3 times its original length and
the elastomeric yarn is drafted from about 2.5 to about 4.5 its
original length.
10. A woven stretch fabric comprising the core spun yarn of claim 2
in the weft and/or warp.
11. The woven stretch fabric of claim 10 wherein the fabric is a
plain woven, twill or satin fabric.
12. The woven stretch fabric of claim 11 wherein the fabric is
denim and has been subjected to a one-step dyeing process of piece
dyed fabric.
13. The woven stretch fabric of claim 12 which has a weft and/or
warp elongation from about 10% to about 35%.
14. The woven stretch fabric of claim 13 which is substantially
free of any bi-component polyester filament grinning effect.
15. A core spun yarn comprising: a bi-component polyester filament;
and an elastomeric fiber, said bi-component polyester fabric being
drafted from about 1.01 to about 1.3 times its original length and
the elastomeric yarn is drafted from about 2.5 to about 4.5 its
original length.
16. The yarn of claim 15 further including in a sheath of at least
one staple fiber.
17. The yarn of claim 16 wherein said staple fiber is selected from
a group consisting of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, polyester and
blends thereof.
18. A woven stretch fabric comprising the core spun yarn of claim
17 in the weft and/or warp.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] This invention relates generally to core spun yarns with
bi-component polyester filaments and an elastomeric fiber and
fabrics made there from, and more particularly, the present
invention relates to core spun yarns comprising poly (trimethylene
terephthalate) and poly (ethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric
fiber comprising spandex, or poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and
poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber
comprising spandex.
BACKGROUND
[0002] Conventional stretch fabrics made by using core spun spandex
yarn has, in general, too much stretch power. As used herein, core
spun yarn refers to a yarn consisting of a number of component
yarns, of which one or more are constrained to lie permanently at
the central axis of the composite thread, while the remaining yarns
act as covering yarns. Therefore, heat set is necessary to prevent
retraction of the elastic fibers and the resultant compression of
the fabric. Without heat setting, there will be high shrinkage and
poor appearance after a finishing operation or in-house washing.
However, the required heat setting process is time and cost
consuming with many side affects such as affected elongation,
growth and the stability of the fabric width.
[0003] Bi-component polyester filaments are disclosed in U.S. Pat.
No. 3,671,379 and woven stretch fabrics comprising bi-component
polyester filaments are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,922,433, U.S.
Pat. No. 7,143,790, and U.S. Pat. No. 6,782,923. The disclosure of
each of these patents is incorporated herein by reference in its
entirety. However, the fabrics disclosed in these patents use bare
bi-component polyester and have a strong synthetic feel and
appearance. This undesirable synthetic characteristic can only be
overcome by dyeing the fabric in two separate dyeing steps. This is
a tedious process and can reduce the elastic properties of the
fabric. Also, it is limited to denim fabric.
[0004] Core spun yarns with bi-component polyester filaments in the
center and fabrics made from them are disclosed in U.S. Patent
Application publication US 2006/0179810. The disclosure of this
patent application publication is incorporated herein by reference
in its entirety. The fabrics produced using the yarn as disclosed
in the patent application publication have improved appearance,
hand feel and the bi-component polyester filament is covered by the
staple fibers, but it still has a "grinning effect". As used in the
art, grinning refers to a flaw in the fabric wherein the inner
fibers show through the outer fibers. For example, the case where
the bi-component polyester filament which is covered by staple
fibers shows through the covering of the staple fibers.
Additionally, the elongation of the fabric is limited and can only
be adjusted by the fabric construction which, in order to get a
higher stretchability, resulted in a fabric that was "too
soft".
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0005] According to one aspect there is provided a core spun yarn
comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric
fiber. The polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about
150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140.
[0006] According to another aspect there is provided a core spun
yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an
elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament has a denier from about
20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to
140. The polyester filament is about 2 weight percent to about 60
weight percent, based on total weight of the yarn and the
elastomeric fiber is from about 1 percent to about 40 percent,
based on total weight of the yarn.
[0007] According to yet another aspect there is provided a core
spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an
elastomeric fiber. The elastomeric fiber has a higher draft than
the bi-component polyester fiber.
[0008] According to still another aspect there is provided a core
spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an
elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament comprises poly (ethylene
terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and said
elastomeric fiber is spandex.
[0009] According to still further aspect there is provided a core
spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an
elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament comprises poly (ethylene
terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and said
elastomeric fiber is spandex. The yarn includes a sheath of at
least one staple fiber.
[0010] According to still further aspect there is provided a core
spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an
elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament comprises poly
(trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene
terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber comprising spandex. The
yarn includes a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
[0011] According to another aspect there is provided a woven
stretch fabric comprising a core spun yarn comprising a
bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The
polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about 150 and the
elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0012] FIG. 1 is a schematic side view of one embodiment of a core
spinning apparatus;
[0013] FIG. 2 is a schematic front view of the core spinning
apparatus of FIG. 1;
[0014] FIG. 3 is a schematic side view of the second embodiment of
a core spinning apparatus;
[0015] FIG. 4 is a schematic front view of the core spinning
apparatus of FIG. 3;
[0016] FIG. 5 is a schematic side view of the third embodiment of a
core spinning apparatus;
[0017] FIG. 6 is a schematic front view of the core spinning
apparatus of FIG. 5;
[0018] FIG. 7a is an image of the back side of fabric number 4
referred to in Table 2;
[0019] FIG. 7b is a back side view of fabric number 5 referred to
in Table 2;
[0020] FIG. 8a is an image of a front face view of a fabric
produced as disclosed herein; and
[0021] FIG. 8b is a back side view of the fabric shown in FIG.
8a.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0022] This disclosure relates to a bi-component filament core spun
yarn which may comprise a bi-component polyester filament and an
elastomeric fiber. The bi-component polyester filament may comprise
poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected
from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly
(tetramethylene terephthalate). The denier of the bi-component
polyester filament should be in the range of from 20 to 150.
[0023] The elastomeric fabric is preferably a bare spandex from 20
to 140 denier.
[0024] According to another aspect of the disclosure, the
bi-component polyester filament and the elastomeric fiber are
provided with a different draft. By draft is meant the reduction in
the linear density of the fiber by drawing. When drafting, the
degree of attenuation is calculated as the ratio of the surface
speeds of the output and input machine components which bring out
drafting. The bi-component polyester filament is drafted from about
1.01 to about 1.30 times is original length and the bare spandex is
drafted from about 2.50 to about 4.50 times its original
length.
[0025] According to another aspect, the yarn includes a sheath
which forms a composite yarn with the bi-component filaments and
elastomeric yarns. The sheath may be staple fibers of a hard yarn.
"Hard yarn" refers to relatively unelastic yarns such as polyester,
cotton, nylon, rayon, or wool. The sheath may range from Ne 4 to Ne
60. As used herein, Ne is an indirect system of expressing the mass
per unit length as one lb. per 840 yards. The fibers of cotton,
viscose rayon, wool, polyester and blends thereof may be used. In
general, there is no particular restriction on the staple fibers
that can be used provided that the benefits are not affected.
[0026] An apparatus for making yarn is shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. As
shown in those figures, there is provided a tube 2 or other source
of the bi-component filament 4 mounted on a pair of feed rollers 6.
A tube or other source 8 of elastomeric fiber 10 is mounted on a
pair of feed rollers 12. The bi-component polyester filament 4 and
elastomeric fiber 10 (spandex) are combined and controlled by a
guide roller 14 from which the combined bi-component polyester and
spandex is fed to the front rollers 16. A tube 18 of roving or hard
fibers 20 is provided with the hard fiber being fed through a set
of back rollers 22 and then to the front rollers 16. The combined
spandex 10 and bi-component polyester filament 4 along with the
hard fiber 20 is fed from the front rollers 16 thorough a snail
wire 24 into a conventional spinning device 26. As is well known in
the art, the spinning device 26 may include a spindle 28, a
spinning ring 30 and a balloon controlled ring 32. The combined
bi-component polyester filament and spandex and hard fiber are core
spun together in the spinning device during the spinning process,
the bi-component polyester filament and spandex is covered by the
hard fibers to form a component yarn.
[0027] Both the bi-component polyester filament and spandex are
unwound in a counter-clockwise direction as shown in the figures.
The draft of the bi-component polyester 4 is controlled by the
surface feed ratio of the feed rollers 6 and front roller 16. The
draft of the spandex 10 is controlled by the surface speed of its
feed rollers 12 and the front roller 16. The speed of the feed
rollers 6 of the bi-component filament and 12 of the spandex can be
adjusted separately to give the desired draft or stretch ratio.
[0028] The draft ratio of the bi-component polyester ranges from
about 1.01 to 1.3. This ratio is designed based upon the stability
of the coverage of the bare bi-component polyester and is not
related to the stretchability of the woven fabric. A draft ratio of
the spandex ranges from about 2.5 to about 4.5. The ratio is
designed according to the stretchability requested on the resulting
woven fabric.
[0029] The bi-component polyester and spandex are combined and
controlled by the guide roller 14 properly positioned to achieve
the proper coverage. To achieve similar or even higher fabric
stretch level as compared to previously known stretch fabrics made
from core bi-component polyester spun yarn or bare bi-component
polyester filament, it is possible to use just 75 denier of the
bi-component polyester filament and 40 denier of spandex to
replace, for example, a core 150 denier of the bi-component
polyester filament. As the percent of the bi-component polyester is
generally less than the prior art core bi-component polyester
filament spun yarn, there is no special technique that has to be
done in order to improve the coverage of the bare polyester
filament.
[0030] A possible common yarn defect that could happen during the
core yarn spinning process is for the bi-component polyester
filament or the spandex to somehow break off and not be fed into
the guide roller. Such defect would only be noticed upon the manual
checking after the full cop or yarn breakage. One way of providing
a recognition of this problem at an early stage is to provide
turning rollers 34 and 36 for the bi-component filament 4 and
spandex fiber 10 as shown in FIGS. 3 and 4. As shown in those
figures, a turning roller 34 for the bi-component filament 4 is
mounted between its feed rollers 6 and the front rollers 16 and the
turning roller 36 for the spandex 10 is similarly mounted between
its feed rollers 12 and front roller 16. If either the bi-component
polyester filament 4 or the spandex 10 is broken, a respective
turning roller 34 or 36 will stop rotating providing an indication
to a worker that a breakage has occurred and that the operation
should be shut down until such problem is corrected. Other than the
turning rollers, the remainder of the apparatus of FIGS. 3 and 4 is
the same as that of FIGS. 1 and 2 except that the guide 14 roller
may be omitted.
[0031] Another embodiment of the core spinning apparatus is shown
in FIGS. 5 and 6. In those figures, the bi-component polyester
filament and spandex have been combined together in a separate
device and are provided for feeding into the spinning device 40 on
a tube mounted on feed rollers 42. In this case, the combined
bi-component filament and spandex is fed over a single turning
roller 44 to the front rollers 16. The roving or hard fiber is fed
through the back rollers 22 to the front rollers 16 at which point
the two sets of fibers pass into the spinning apparatus 26. In the
case where the bi-component polyester filament and spandex are
wound together before being put on the feed rollers, such
bi-component polyester filament and spandex will have been wound
together at their desirable respective draft. However, in this
case, there may be a draft of from 1.0 to 1.1 controlled by the
surface speed ratio of the feed roller 42 and front roller 16.
[0032] The core spun bi-component polyester filament and spandex
yarn can be used to provide a woven stretch fabric designed as a
weft stretched, warp stretched, or bi-stretched by using the core
spun yarn in a warp, weft and warp and weft directions
respectively. The woven stretch fabric may have a fabric weft
ranging from 4 oz./sq. yd. to 16 oz./sq. yd. The yarn as described
herein is suitable for any woven fabric with construction as a
plain, Z-twill, S-twill, satin, sateen and any other common
construction which is used in such items as denim, pants, and
shirts. The fabric construction is designed similar to
previously-known stretch fabric made from core spandex yarn or
bi-component polyester filament. However, there is no need to have
an open construction in order to get stretchability. In the case of
the denim stretch woven fabric using the yarn as described herein,
the fabric does not require heat set up to maintain good
dimensional stability with shrinking less than 7%, elongation not
less than 20% and growth less than 4%.
[0033] A piece dyed stretch fabric, for example, using the weft
stretch, using the yarn of the present disclosure, can achieve the
lower shrinkage, less than 7%, good elongation not less than 20%,
and growth less than 4%, with only an acceptable number of "white
spots" occurring on the fabric surface. Also, it is not necessary
to use a two-step dyeing process on a woven bi-stretch fabric using
the yarn of the present invention as one can achieve a comfort
stretch greater than 15% of in the warp and weft direction without
any problem of grinning.
[0034] The following examples demonstrate the yarn of the present
disclosure and its capability for use in manufacturing a variety of
woven stretch fabrics.
EXAMPLE 1--Denim Weft Stretch Fabric
[0035] This example shows the weft stretch denim fabric as shown in
Table 1 below. Fabric no. 1 is in accordance with the present
disclosure and uses a core bi-component polyester and spandex spun
yarn in the weft, whereas fabric no. 2 and fabric no. 3 are
previously known stretch fabrics made by using core bi-component
polyester filament and a bare bi-component polyester filament
respectively. As will be noted, fabric no. 1, in accordance with
the present invention, obtains a better elongation as compared to
fabrics no. 2 and fabric no. 3, and has a 100% cotton feel. Without
any heat set process, fabric no. 1 achieves a good dimensional
stability (-6.2%), good elongation (20%) and growth (2.5%). Other
characteristics are summarized in Table 1.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Denim Woven Stretch Fabric - Weft Stretch
Fabric Sample No. Fabric No. 1 Fabric No. 2 Fabric No. 3 Yarn Warp
Yarn Ne7 Slub Ne7 Slub Ne7 Slub Weft Yarn Ne10 CSY 75D bi- Ne10 CSY
150D bi- Bare 600D bi-component component polyester component
polyester polyester filament filament & 40D spandex filament
Composition Warp 100% cotton 100% cotton 100% cotton Weft 83%
cotton 72% cotton 100% Polyester 14% polyester 28% polyester -- 3%
spandex -- -- Draft Polyester 1.02 1.02 -- Spandex 2.5 -- -- Fabric
Fabric Construction 3/1 "Z" 3/1 "Z" 3/1 "Z" Fabric Weight
(oz/sq.yd) Before Wash 12.3 11.7 13.2 After Wash 13.4 12.0 13.7
Greige Fabric Density Warp 62 60 58 (per inch) Weft 46 45 42
Finished Fabric Density Warp 72 70 72 (per inch) Weft 49 48 46 Test
# Dimensional Stability (%) 3 Warp -3.3 -2.5 -1.8 Washes Weft -6.2
-2 -4 Tearing Strength Warp g >6400 >6400 >6400 lb
>14.08 >14.08 >14.08 Weft g 5300 5600 >6400 lb 11.7
12.3 >14.08 Tensile Strength Warp kg 135 139 106 lb 297.4 304.9
232.8 Weft kg 43.7 47.7 157.6 lb 96.1 104.9 346.7 Seam Slippage
1/4'' (kg) Parallel to Warp >18.2 >18.2 >18.2 Parallel to
Weft >18.2 >18.2 >18.2 Washing Fastness Colour Change
Colour Staining Crocking Fastness Dry 3.5 3.5 3.0 Wet 1 1 1
Elongation & Growth (%) Warp E/G -- Weft E/G 20/2.5 14/1.3
20/2.0
EXAMPLE 2--ONE STEP DYED WEFT STRETCH FABRIC
[0036] This example demonstrates a weft stretch fabric which has
been dyed with a single step process. As shown in Table 2, fabric
no. 4 is a fabric which uses a weft yarn in accordance with the
present disclosure, which is a core bi-component polyester filament
and spandex. Fabric no. 5 is a common stretch fabric with the weft
yarn being a core bi-component polyester filament only. Both weft
yarns had a cotton sheath, and were subjected to a one step dyeing
process. As will be noted, fabric no. 4, in accordance with the
present disclosure, achieved weft elongation of 21.6% and had
growth of 1.9% and good stability of 3.5%. One significant
advantage as compared to the use of the bare bi-component polyester
filament or core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn is that
the exposure of the bare polyester filament is improved. As shown
in FIG. 7a, no bare polyester can be seen on fabric no. 4. On the
other hand, FIG. 7b shows exposure of the bare polyester filament
of the fabric no. 5. Using yarns according to the present
disclosure eliminates necessity of a two-step dyeing process which
is cost consuming.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Piece Dyed Woven Stretch Fabric - Weft
Stretch <one part dyed> Fabric Sample No. Fabric No. 4 Fabric
No. 5 Yarn Warp Yarn Ne7 Slub Ne7 Slub Weft Yarn Ne10 CSY 75 D bi-
Ne10 CSY 150 D bi- component polyester component polyester filament
& 40 D spandex filament Composition Warp 100% cotton 100%
cotton Weft 84% cotton 73% cotton 13% polyester 27% polyester 3%
spandex -- Fabric Fabric Construction 3/1 "Z" 3/1 "Z" Fabric Weight
(oz/sq.yd) Before Wash 11.0 11.0 After Wash 11.4 11.3 Greige Fabric
Density Warp 58 58 (per inch) Weft 42 42 Finished Fabric Density
Warp 69 66 (per inch) Weft 44 44 Test Dimensional Stability (%) 3
Warp -1.5 -1.5 Washes Weft -3.5 -2.7 Elongation & Growth (%)
Warp E/G -- Weft E/G 21.6/1.9 16/1.5
EXAMPLE 3--BI-STRETCH DENIM FABRIC
[0037] This example shows the advantage of the use of yarns in
accordance with the present disclosure in bi-stretch denim fabric
as shown in Table 3. Fabric no. 6 uses yarns in accordance with the
present disclosure and comprises a core bi-component polyester
filament and spandex spun yarn both in the warp and weft direction.
Fabric no. 7 comprises only a core bi-component polyester filament
in the warp and weft as in previously known stretch fabrics. As
shown in the table, fabric no. 6, has a higher stretch power (29%)
in the weft direction. Further, the concern of exposure of the bare
polyester in the warp of the previously known core bi-component
polyester filament spun yarn is not a problem with the fabric no. 6
as the percentage of the polyester is much less. In this example,
the exposure of the bare polyester was not seen on the finished
fabric using the yarns in the present disclosure. The fabric's
characteristic is summarized in Table 3.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Denim Woven Stretch Fabric - bi-Stretch
Fabric Sample No. Fabric No. 6 Fabric No. 7 Warp Yarn Ne 7 CSY 75
denier bi-component Ne 7 CSY 150 denier bi-component filament + 40
D spandex slub filament slub Weft Yarn Ne 10 CSY 75 denier
bi-component Ne 10 CSY 150 denier bi-component filament + 70 D
spandex filament Composition Warp 88% cotton, 10% polyester, 2% 81%
cotton, 19% polyester spandex Weft 82% cotton, 14% polyester, 4%
73% cotton, 27% poyester spandex Draft Polyester 1.02 1.06 Spandex
40 D 2.5 -- Spandex 70 D 3.5 -- Fabric Construction 3/1 "Z" 3/1 "Z"
Greige Fabric Width (Inch) 67.0 67.0 Finished Fabric Width (Inch)
52.0 57.5 Fabric Weight Before Wash 13.7 12.5 (oz/sq.yd) After Wash
15.4 12.6 Greige Fabric Density Warp 54 54 (per inch) Weft 50 42
Finished Fabric Density Warp 69 63 (per inch) Weft 59 51
Dimensional 3 Washes Warp -6 -3.0 Stability (%) Weft -6.5 -2.3
Elongation (%) Warp E/G 20/3.2 20.6/2.6 Growth (%) Weft E/G 29/2.2
16.0/1.2
EXAMPLE 4--BI-STRETCH DENIM FABRIC WITH Different Combination of
the Denier
[0038] This example shows the availability of fabrics using yarns
in accordance with the present disclosure to reach the desired
stretchability by adjusting the denier of the spandex/bi-component
filament and the draft (if needed). The warp yarn in each of the
Fabrics no. 8-11 is in accordance with the present disclosure and
uses a core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn at Ne7. The
weft yarn in each of the fabrics comprises a different denier of
the filament/spandex spun yarn at Ne8. They are: [0039] Fabric no.
8: 75 denier filament and 70 denier spandex, in accordance with the
present disclosure. [0040] Fabric no. 9: 75 denier filament and 40
denier spandex, in accordance with the present disclosure. [0041]
Fabric no. 10: 150 denier filament and 40 denier spandex, in
accordance with the present disclosure. [0042] Fabric no. 11: 150
denier filament (previously known stretch fabric).
[0043] The fabric characteristics are summarized in Table 4. After
finishing, fabrics nos. 8, 9 and 10, those in accordance with the
present disclosure, have reasonable stretch ranging from 21% to 27%
with good recovery, (growth less than 2.4%). With the conventional
fabric no. 11, with a core bi-component polyester filament only,
the stretch power was much lower at 15%. It should be noted that
since the warp yarn is all the same, the elongation and growth are
substantially the same at 18% and between 1.4% and 2.0%
respectively. This shows that without using the open end
construction, it is possible to get desirable stretch power in any
application with yarns according to the present disclosure.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Denim Woven Stretch Fabric - combination of
denier and draft Sample No. Fabric No. 8* Fabric No. 9* Fabric No.
10* Fabric No. 11* Yarn Warp Ne7 CSY 150D Ne7 CSY 150D Ne7 CSY 150D
Ne7 CSY 150D bi-component filament bi-component filament
bi-component filament bi-component filament Slub Slub Slub Slub
Weft Ne8 CSY 75 denier Ne8 CSY 75 denier Ne8 CSY 150 denier Ne8 CSY
150 denier bi-component bi-component bi-component bi-component
filament + 70D filament + 40D filament + 40D filament spandex
spandex spandex Composition Warp 81.4% cotton, 81.4% cotton, 81.4%
cotton, 81.4% cotton, 18.6% polyester 18.6% polyester 18.6%
polyester 18.6% polyester Weft 86% cotton, 87% cotton, 77% cotton,
78% cotton, 11% polyester, 11% polyester, 21% polyester, 22%
polyester 3% spandex 2% spandex 2% spandex Draft Polyester 150D
1.06 1.06 1.06 1.06 Polyester 75D 1.02 1.02 -- -- Spandex 70D 3.5
-- -- -- Spandex 40D -- 33 3.3 -- Fabric Fabric Construction 3/1
"Z" 3/1 "Z" 3/1 "Z" 3/1 "Z" Greige Fabric Width (Inch) 67.0 67.3
67.0 66.6 Finished Fabric Width (Inch) 36.3 36.3 33.3 38.3 Fabric
Weight (oz/sq.yd) Before Wash 13.3 12.8 13.3 12.2 After Wash 13.2
13.8 16.2 13.0 Greige Fabric Density Warp (per inch) Weft Finished
Fabric Density Warp (per inch) Weft Test Dimensional Stability 3
Washes Warp -2.3 -3.3 -3 -3.0 (%) Weft -7 -6 -3.7 -2.3 Elongation
(%) Warp E/G 18/1.6 18/1.6 18/1.6 18.0/2.0 Growth (%) Weft E/G
27/2.6 21/2.2 22/1.8 /1.8 *represents this present invention in the
weft indicates data missing or illegible when filed
EXAMPLE 5
[0044] This example shows the use of the yarns of the present
disclosure on a bi-stretch fabric undergoing a one-step dyeing
process as set forth in Table 5. The example demonstrates a fabric
with a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex in Ne10
both in the warp and the weft. Using only a one-step dyeing process
the finished fabric still has a good appearance with an acceptable
grinning effect. FIG. 8a shows the front face side of the fabric
no. 12 of this example while FIG. 8b shows the back-side view of
fabric no. 12. As will be noted, neither the front nor the back
view show any significant sign or grinning. This is achieved with
the elongation in the warp and weft being 15% and 20% respectively.
Other characteristics of the finished fabric is shown in Table
5.
TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Piece Dyed Woven Stretch Fabric - bi-stretch
Fabric Sample No. Fabric No. 12* Yarn Warp Yarn Ne10 CSY 75 D
bi-component polyester filament & 40 D spandex Weft Yarn Ne10
CSY 75 D bi-component polyester filament & 40 D spandex
Composition Warp 83% Cotton, 14% polyester, 3% spandex Weft 83%
Cotton, 14% polyester, 3% spandex Draft Polyester 1.02 Spandex 2.5
Fabric Fabric Construction 3/1 "Z" Fabric Weight (oz/sq.yd) Before
Wash 11.1 After Wash 11.7 Greige Fabric Density Warp 68 (per inch)
Weft 40 Finished Fabric Density Warp 83 (per inch) Weft 47 Test
Dimensional Stability (%) 3 Warp -5 Washes Weft -1.6 Elongation
& Growth (%) Warp E/G 15.1/2 Weft E/G 16.6/2
[0045] While various embodiments have been shown and described,
various modifications and substitutions should be made thereto.
Accordingly, it is understood that the present embodiments have
been described by way of illustration and not limitations.
* * * * *