U.S. patent application number 10/587122 was filed with the patent office on 2008-10-09 for automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing machine, and relative sewing method.
This patent application is currently assigned to MECA SPA. Invention is credited to Giannino Landoni.
Application Number | 20080245283 10/587122 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 35427848 |
Filed Date | 2008-10-09 |
United States Patent
Application |
20080245283 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Landoni; Giannino |
October 9, 2008 |
Automatic Multi-Function Multi-Needle Sewing Machine, and Relative
Sewing Method
Abstract
Automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing machine comprising
upper sewing members (14) and lower sewing members (15) cooperating
with each other so as to achieve stitches (18) on a simple or
padded fabric (11), with or without lining. The machine comprises
at least an auxiliary supporting bar (19) cooperating with the
sewing members (14, 15) and a plurality of accessory elements (28,
28a, 30, 37, 47, 51, 70) able to be selectively associated with
said supporting bar (19) by means of attachment means (50, 60) of a
standardized type, said accessory elements (28, 28a, 30, 37, 47,
51, 70) being interchangeable with each other so as to achieve one
or the other of at least the operations of multiple sewing,
application of accessories, such as ribbons, trimmings, paillettes
or strass, tapes, longitudinally or transversely to said fabric
(11), or crimping.
Inventors: |
Landoni; Giannino; (Fagnano
Olona (VA), IT) |
Correspondence
Address: |
HAMRE, SCHUMANN, MUELLER & LARSON, P.C.
P.O. BOX 2902
MINNEAPOLIS
MN
55402-0902
US
|
Assignee: |
MECA SPA
Milano
IT
|
Family ID: |
35427848 |
Appl. No.: |
10/587122 |
Filed: |
July 4, 2005 |
PCT Filed: |
July 4, 2005 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/IB2005/001882 |
371 Date: |
July 24, 2006 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
112/115 ;
112/470.09; 112/475.18 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D05B 35/08 20130101;
D05B 11/00 20130101; D05B 35/06 20130101; D05C 7/08 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
112/115 ;
112/470.09; 112/475.18 |
International
Class: |
D05B 3/12 20060101
D05B003/12; D05B 21/00 20060101 D05B021/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Sep 30, 2004 |
IT |
UD2004A000188 |
Claims
1. Automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing machine comprising
upper sewing members (14) and lower sewing members (15) cooperating
with each other so as to achieve stitches (18) on a simple or
padded fabric (11), with or without lining, wherein it also
comprises at least an auxiliary supporting bar (19) cooperating
with said sewing members (14, 15) and a plurality of accessory
elements (28, 28a, 30, 37, 47, 51, 70) able to be selectively
associated with said supporting bar (19) by means of attachment
means (50, 60) of a standardized type, said accessory elements (28,
28a, 30, 37, 47, 51, 70) being interchangeable with each other in
order to achieve one or the other of at least the operations of
multiple sewing, application of accessories such as ribbons,
trimmings, paillettes or strass, tapes, longitudinally or
transversely to said fabric (11), or crimping.
2. Sewing machine as in claim 1, wherein at least some of said
accessory elements (30, 37, 47, 51, 70) comprise movement means
(31, 40, 31a, 72).
3. Sewing machine as in claim 1, wherein said attachment means of a
standardized type comprise a plurality of housings (20) made on an
upper surface of said auxiliary supporting bar (19), and at least
an attachment part (60), made on each of said accessory elements
(28, 28a, 30, 37, 47, 51, 70), in order to be disposed and attached
in a corresponding one of said housings (20).
4. Sewing machine as in claim 1, wherein said attachment means of a
standardized type comprise a linear guide (50) provided on said
supporting bar (19) and able to allow the transverse sliding of at
least a type of said accessory elements (51) with respect to said
auxiliary supporting bar (19).
5. Sewing machine as in claim 1, wherein below said auxiliary
supporting bar (19) means (21) are provided inside which a toothed
element (23) to transmit motion is able to slide.
6. Sewing machine as in claim 5, wherein at the ends of said
auxiliary supporting bar (19) command, guide and return means are
provided for said toothed element (23).
7. Sewing machine as in claim 6, wherein it comprises a command
motor (26) controlled by a control unit (17), for the selective and
programmable command of said toothed element (23).
8. Sewing machine as in claim 1, wherein said accessory elements
comprise a plurality of standard static feet (28, 28a) able to
perform multiple stitches and ornamental designs on said fabric
(11), and comprising said attachment part (60) to the auxiliary
supporting bar (19) and at least a shaped part (61) disposed during
use in proximity with said fabric (11) and provided with a
corresponding passage hole for the relative upper sewing member
(14).
9. Sewing machine as in claim 2, wherein said accessory elements
comprise a plurality of robotized feet (30) able to apply strips
(33), tapes (34 or trimmings on said fabric (11), and each one
comprising said attachment part (60) to the auxiliary supporting
bar (19) and at least a supporting part for said movement means
(31), said movement means comprising a toothed wheel (31) rotating
idle and engaging with said toothed element (23).
10. Sewing machine as in claim 9, wherein said toothed wheel (31)
comprises a cylindrical insert (32) provided with an axial hole
(29) for said upper sewing member (14), and a plurality of holes
and/or hollows (57, 58, 62) with different diameters and widths,
disposed eccentric with respect to said axial hole (29), and
through which said strips (33), and/or said tapes (34) to be
applied pass.
11. Sewing machine as in claim 2, wherein said accessory elements
comprise a plurality of robotized feet (37) able to apply crimped
tapes (36) onto said fabric (11), and each comprising said
attachment part (60) to the auxiliary supporting bar (19) and
movement means comprising a toothed wheel (40) able to engage with
said toothed element (23) and provided with a central hole (41)
through which said upper sewing member (14) passes, and with a cam
(42) able to move alternately a pad (43), said pad (43) being able
to support a movable blade (45) able to slide on a fixed blade (46)
associated rigidly with said robotized foot (37).
12. Sewing machine as in claim 1, wherein said accessory elements
comprise a plurality of robotized feet (47) able to perform the
crimping over the whole width of said fabric (11), and each
comprising said attachment part (60) to the auxiliary supporting
bar (19) and movement means comprising a toothed wheel (40) able to
engage with said toothed element (23) and provided with a central
hole (41) through which said upper sewing member (14) passes, and
with a cam (42) able to move alternately a pad (43), said pad (43)
being able to support a movable blade (45a) able to act on said
fabric (11) to be crimped.
13. Sewing machine as in claim 2, wherein said accessory elements
comprise a plurality of robotized feet (70) able to apply
paillettes (80) on said fabric (11), and each comprising said
attachment part (60) to the auxiliary supporting bar (19) and
movement means comprising a toothed wheel (72) able to engage with
said toothed element (23) and provided with a central hole (73)
through which said upper sewing member (14) passes, and with a cam
(74) able to move alternately a pad (75), said pad (75) being able
to support a movable blade (77) able to engage with a hole (82) of
one of said paillettes (80) in order to determine the progressive
advance thereof towards said toothed wheel (72) so as to stitch
said paillette (80) onto said fabric (11) by means of the relative
needle (14).
14. Sewing machine as in claim 13, wherein it comprises a
positioning element conformed as a hook (86) able to center the
hole (82) of the paillette (80) to be applied with the hole (73) of
the toothed wheel (72) and hence in axis with the sewing needle
(14).
15. Sewing machine as in claim 12, wherein it comprises a cutting
assembly (92, 93, 94) of a rotary type and disposed in cooperation
with the lower part of the hole (73) of said toothed wheel (72),
able to cut the paillette (80) after it has been applied on the
fabric (11) with respect to the feed strip (81).
16. Sewing machine as in claim 2, wherein said accessory elements
comprise a slider (51) able to apply tapes (48), ribbons or
trimmings transverse to the direction of feed of said fabric (11),
and said movement means comprise at least a toothed wheel (31a)
able to engage with said toothed element (23), a device to cut the
thread of the needle and a clamping device (52) able to selectively
clamp the rotation of said toothed wheel (31a), in order to allow
said slider (51) to be drawn along said linear guide (50).
17. Method to sew onto a simple or multi-layer fabric (11), with or
without lining, for an automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing
machine comprising at least upper sewing members (14) and lower
sewing members (15) cooperating with each other, wherein it
provides to perform one or the other of at least the operations of
multiple sewing, application of accessories such as ribbons,
trimmings or tapes, paillettes or strass, longitudinally or
transversely to said fabric (11), or crimping, by the selective
assembly of one chosen from a plurality of accessory elements (28,
28a, 30, 37, 47, 51, 70), interchangeable with each other and all
able to be mounted, by means of attachment means (50, 60), on an
auxiliary supporting bar (19) cooperating with said sewing members
(14, 15).
18. Method as in claim 17, wherein a first static type of said
accessory elements (28, 28a) is used to perform multiple stitches
with an unlimited number of ornamental designs or patterns on
simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics (11), fed continuously from
rolls.
19. Method as in claim 17, wherein a second robotized type of said
accessory elements (30) is used to perform applications of stitches
of strip (33), tapes (34) or trimmings on simple, multi-layer or
padded fabrics (11), fed continuously from rolls.
20. Method as in claim 17, wherein according to the type of strip
(33), tape (34) or trimming to be applied, said accessory elements
(30) are positioned and moved automatically to a working position,
with respect to said upper sewing members (14), such as to fix said
strip (33) to said fabric (11), without said needle (14) passing
through said strip (33), or such as to fix said tape (34) to said
fabric (11) with stitches always in the center of said tape
(34).
21. Method as in claim 17, wherein a third robotized type of said
accessory elements (70) is used to perform applications of stitches
of paillettes or strass (80) on simple, multi-layer or padded
fabrics (11), fed continuously from rolls.
22. Method as in claim 21, wherein it provides a first step of
selective feed of a strip (81) of said paillettes (80) by means of
the alternate movement of a pointed element (77) whose tip (77a)
engages in the hole (82) of the first of said paillettes (80), a
second step of positioning said paillette (80) in axis with the
sewing needle (14) by means of a hook-type positioning element
(86), a third step of sewing the paillette (80) onto the fabric
(11) and a fourth step of cutting the first paillette (80) with
respect to the feed strip (81) by means of a rotating cutting
element disposed in proximity with the sewing position and able to
be inserted into the throat between two adjacent paillettes
(80).
23. Method as in claim 17, wherein a fourth robotized type of said
accessory elements (37) is used to apply crimped tapes (36) on said
fabric (11)
24. Method as in claim 23, wherein said accessory elements (37)
alternately thrust forwards said tapes (36) by means of a movable
blade (45), making them slide on a fixed blade (46) so as to crimp
them before they are sewn by said upper sewing members (14).
25. Method as in claim 17, wherein a fifth robotized type of said
accessory elements (47) is used to perform crimping over the whole
width of said fabric (11).
26. Method as in claim 17, wherein a sixth type of said accessory
elements (51) is used to apply tapes (48), ribbons or trimmings,
disposed transverse to the direction of advance of said fabrics
(11).
27. Method as in claim 26, wherein the functioning of each of said
accessory elements of the sixth type (51) provides at least the
following operating steps: a first step, wherein the accessory
element is stationary at a first end of said auxiliary supporting
bar (19) and said tape (48) is positioned behind one of said upper
sewing members (14a) with respect to the side on which said fabric
(11) enters; a second step wherein said fabrics (11) are made to
advance and, by means of the stitching made with said upper sewing
members (14a), said tape (48) is fixed to said fabric (11); a third
step wherein said fabric (11) is stopped and said tape (48) is
taken to the left of said upper sewing member (14a) with respect to
the side on which said fabric (11) enters; a fourth step wherein
the accessory element (51) is drawn transversely along said
auxiliary supporting bar (19) until it covers all the width of said
fabric (11), so as to lay said tape (48) transversely on said
fabric (11); a fifth step wherein said accessory element (51) is at
a second end of said auxiliary supporting bar (19) and said tape
(48) is behind said upper sewing member (14a) with respect to the
side on which said fabric (11) enters; a sixth step wherein said
fabric (11) is made to advance and, by means of the stitching made
with said upper sewing members (14a), said tape (48) is fixed to
said fabric (11); a seventh step wherein said fabric (11) is
stopped and said tape (48) is taken to the right of said upper
sewing member (14a) with respect to the side on which said fabric
(11) enters; and an eighth step wherein said accessory element (51)
is drawn transversely along said auxiliary supporting bar (19)
until it covers the whole width of said fabric (11), so as to lay
said tape (48) transversely on said fabric (11).
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention concerns an automatic multi-function
multi-needle sewing machine, able to perform multiple stitches with
an unlimited number of patterns, embroideries and ornamental
designs, or able to apply decorative strips, paillettes, ribbons
and trimmings, or able to apply crimped tapes onto simple,
multi-layer or padded fabrics, fed continuously from rolls, or to
crimp simple fabrics or fabrics with a lining below, fed
continuously from rolls, or again to apply tapes or ribbons
transverse to the direction of feed of the fabric.
[0002] The sewing machine according to the present invention is
advantageously but not exclusively an automatic multi-function
multi-needle sewing-quilting-embroidering machine.
[0003] The invention also concerns a sewing method that allows to
make different workings for each of which, until now, it would have
been necessary to have different specific sewing machines
available.
[0004] The invention is preferentially, though not exclusively,
applied on multi-needle quilting machines, both of the type which
make knotted point and chain point stitches.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0005] In the field of sewing machines and embroidery, it is known
to automatically apply ribbons, strips and paillettes on fabrics
cut into pieces, or to apply manually crimped tapes on fabrics cut
into pieces, or to crimp fabrics in pieces or from rolls.
[0006] For each of the above applications, however, it is necessary
to use specific machines, each of which can perform a single type
of work, which therefore require, in the case of workings performed
in sequence, manual steps to reposition the fabrics cut into pieces
with every productive cycle, which entails a considerable expense
and energy consumption.
[0007] One purpose of the present invention is to achieve a single
automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing machine, which allows
to perform indifferently, by means of rapid and simple
reconfiguring operations, one or the other of a plurality of
different and differentiated functions in the type of stitching, of
accessory applied, for example ribbons, trimmings, paillettes,
tapes, longitudinally or transversely to the fabric, crimping
operations, or other, according to the clients' requests.
[0008] Another purpose of the present invention is to achieve a
sewing machine that will allow continuous working of simple,
multi-layer and padded fabrics, obtaining any ornamental pattern
whatsoever of the stitches by means of an electronic control.
[0009] The Applicant has devised, tested and embodied the present
invention to overcome these shortcomings of the state of the art,
and to obtain further advantages as will be explained
hereafter.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0010] The present invention is set forth and characterized in the
respective main claims, while the dependent claims describe other
characteristics of the main embodiment.
[0011] In accordance with the above purposes the sewing machine
according to the present invention comprises at least a
needle-bearing bar on which a plurality of needles are mounted,
each one fed with its own thread called needle thread. The
needle-bearing bar is able to be moved alternately with an
ascending-descending movement, to take every needle to cooperate
with a mating lower sewing element, for example consisting of a
shuttle, a rotary crochet or a mobile hook, also equipped with
alternating movement mating with the movement of the needle-bearing
bar.
[0012] The cooperation between the needles and the lower sewing
elements determines the sewing of stitches, both knotted point and
double chain point stitches, on simple, multi-layer or padded
fabrics, fed continuously from rolls and interposed between said
sewing members.
[0013] According to a characteristic feature of the present
invention, the sewing machine also comprises at least an auxiliary
supporting bar cooperating with the needle-bearing bar, and able to
be moved alternately in an ascending-descending direction, with a
movement coordinated to that of the needle-bearing bar. According
to the invention, a series of different accessory elements are able
to be selectively associated with the auxiliary supporting bar, by
means of standardized attachment means, so as to perform
selectively one or the other of at least the following
operations:
i) to make multiple stitches with an unlimited number of ornamental
patterns or designs on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics fed
continuously from rolls; ii) automatic application, by means of
stitches suitable to achieve a desired ornamental pattern or
design, of a strip, a ribbon or a trimming on simple, multi-layer
or padded fabrics fed continuously from rolls; iii) automatic
application, by means of stitches suitable to achieve a desired
ornamental pattern or design, of paillettes on simple, multi-layer
or padded fabrics fed continuously from rolls; iv) automatic
application, by means of rectilinear stitches or with a plurality
of ornamental designs, of tapes crimped using different crimping
systems on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics fed continuously
from rolls; v) automatic crimping over the entire width, by means
of stitches, of simple fabrics, or fabrics with a lining beneath,
fed continuously from rolls; vi) automatic application, by means of
parallel stitches, of tapes, ribbons or trimmings disposed
transverse to the direction of feed of the fabrics on simple,
multi-layer or padded fabrics fed continuously from rolls with the
possibility of varying as desired the distance between the tapes;
and vii) preparation for the application of new accessories for the
execution of ornamental embellishments with other characteristics
requested by the user at a later time.
[0014] According to another characteristic feature of the present
invention, parts of said accessory elements comprise movement
means, also of a standardized type, able to allow on each occasion
the specific achievement of said operations.
[0015] In a first form of preferential embodiment of the present
invention, the standardized attachment means comprise a plurality
of housings for said accessory elements, disposed contiguous so as
to cover the upper surface of the auxiliary supporting bar, each of
which has a length that substantially corresponds to the distance
between two contiguous needles; each accessory element has at least
a part, of a size correlating to that of each of said housings, so
as to be able to be selectively positioned and clamped inside them
so that at least a needle can cooperate therewith during the
working step.
[0016] In a second form of preferential embodiment of the present
invention, the standardized attachment means comprise a linear
guide attached on the auxiliary supporting bar and able to allow
the positioning, by means of transverse sliding, and the subsequent
attachment in the operating position of the accessory element with
respect to the latter.
[0017] According to a variant, on the lower surface of the
auxiliary supporting bar there are sliding means for a toothed
belt, advantageously having a development adequate to cover the
entire lateral perimeter of the auxiliary supporting bar.
[0018] In another preferential embodiment, at the ends of the
auxiliary supporting bar there are command, guide and return means
for said toothed belt. The command means comprise at least a pulley
connected to a command motor.
[0019] According to a variant, the command motor is managed by a
programmable control unit in order to impart to the toothed belt
movements with a cadence, amplitude and direction of movement that
vary according to the type of operation to be performed.
[0020] According to the invention, the accessory elements are
selectively chosen from standard static feet or feet of a robotized
type according to the work to be done.
[0021] Inside these two types, the feet can be of different types
according to the application or specific operation to be made on
the fabric.
[0022] For example, when multiple stitches have to be done with an
unlimited number of ornamental patterns or designs on simple,
multi-layer of padded fabrics, fed continuously from rolls, a
plurality of standard feet are mounted on the auxiliary supporting
bar by means of said standardized attachment means; apart from the
standardized part to connect with the auxiliary supporting bar, the
standard feet have a shaped part equipped with suitable holes
through which the corresponding needles pass, mounted on the
respective needle-bearing bar.
[0023] In this type of working, the auxiliary supporting bar
behaves like a simple fabric-pressing plate and the toothed belt
and its command motor remain inactive.
[0024] On the contrary, when applications of strips, ribbons or
trimmings are to be made by means of stitches on simple,
multi-layer or padded fabrics fed continuously from rolls, a
plurality of robotized feet, for example of the ECORDING type, are
mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar, again by means of said
standardized attachment means; apart from the standardized part to
connect with the auxiliary supporting bar, the robotized feet have
a shaped part protruding laterally from the auxiliary supporting
bar itself, in which an idle toothed pulley rotating on bearings is
mounted.
[0025] Each toothed pulley comprises a cylindrical insert, provided
with an axial hole for the needle, and with other holes and/or
hollows with different diameters and widths, disposed eccentric
with respect to the axial hole, and through which the strips or
tapes to be applied pass.
[0026] Again with the same robotized feet it is possible to apply
strips on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics fed continuously
from rolls. In this case, according to the type of strip to be
applied, the hole through which the chosen strip passes is
automatically positioned in the correct working position with
respect to the needles.
[0027] Again with the same robotized ECORDING feet it is possible
to apply tapes on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics fed
continuously from rolls. In this case, the tapes are threaded into
the eccentric hollows of the inserts of corresponding width and,
according to the type of tape, the corresponding eccentric hollow
is positioned in the correct working position with respect to the
needles.
[0028] On the contrary, when crimped tapes are to be applied on
simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics fed continuously from rolls,
the RIRI type robotized feet are mounted on the auxiliary
supporting bar by means of said standardized attachment means, in
the positions corresponding to the needles intended to be used.
[0029] The RIRI type robotized feet are equipped with toothed
pulleys having a central hole through which the sewing needle
passes, and allow to make a tape advance intermittently which is
sewn by the needle, with adjustable crimping.
[0030] Each of the pulleys is also equipped with a cam that drives
a sliding pad made of anti-friction material, on which is attached,
with a slight inclination, a movable blade, which slides on a fixed
blade underneath, attached rigidly to the robotized foot of the
auxiliary supporting bar.
[0031] In this case, the command motor imparts to the toothed belt
alternate movements that are repeated by the pulley of the RIRI
type robotized foot, and transformed by the command cam into
alternate backwards-and-forwards movements of the movable blade
with respect to the fixed blade. Due to the effect of the
alternating movements, the movable blade thrusts the tape forwards,
making it slide on the fixed blade, so as to crimp the tape before
it is sewn by the needle.
[0032] In this solution, by varying as desired the movements of the
command motor, it is possible to make the movable blade perform
more or less ample travels and consequently obtain different types
of crimping of the tape.
[0033] On the contrary, if the crimping is to be performed over the
whole width of simple fabrics or with a lining beneath, fed
continuously from rolls, PLISSE' type robotized feet are mounted on
the auxiliary supporting bar by means of said standardized
attachment means, in the positions corresponding to the needles
intended to be used.
[0034] The PLISSE' type robotized feet are similar to the RIRI type
robotized feet and have only the upper blade which acts directly on
the fabric to be crimped, making it slide forwards, either on the
sliding surfaces of the materials of the sewing machine, or above
the underlying lining if it is present.
[0035] The amplitude of the feed of the fabric to be crimped can be
modified by suitably programming the command motor of the belt, and
consequently the crimping can be more or less tight, according to
the amplitude of the travel of the movable blade.
[0036] On the contrary, if paillettes or strass, or other similar
ornamental elements, are to be applied by means of stitches on
simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics, fed continuously from rolls,
a plurality of robotized feet, for example of the PAILLETTES type,
are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar, in the positions
corresponding to the needles intended to be used and by means of
said standardized attachment means. Apart from the standardized
part to connect with the auxiliary supporting bar, the feet have a
part protruding laterally from the auxiliary supporting bar
itself.
[0037] The PAILLETTES type robotized feet are each equipped with an
assembly to feed and cut the paillettes and are commanded by a
toothed element, for example a pulley, rotating idle, having a hole
through which the sewing needle passes. Each of said rotating
toothed elements drives, in a preferential embodiment, a sliding
pad made of antifriction material, on which a cursor is fixed that
supports a foil.
[0038] In this case, the command motor imparts to the toothed belt
rotational movements that are repeated by the rotating toothed
element of the PAILLETTES type robotized foot and transformed into
alternating backwards-and-forwards movements of the sliding pad,
and hence of the cursor and of the foil. These movements cause the
first paillette of the strip that has to be applied to find itself
with its hole in axis with the hole of the rotating toothed element
through which the needle passes. During the backward travel of the
sliding pad, the following paillette of the strip of paillettes is
engaged by the foil. During the forward travel of the sliding pad,
the strip of paillettes is thrust forwards, exactly centering the
first paillette with the axis of the sewing needle.
[0039] According to the operating cycle, the advance movement of
the strip of paillettes occurs during the descending movement of
the sewing needle, so that the needle enters the hole of the
paillette to be applied (the first on the strip) at the moment when
the paillette itself is centered with the axis of the needle. At
this point, it becomes necessary to cut the paillette from the
strip in order to allow it to be attached by the sewing needle.
[0040] For this purpose a rotary blade is provided, inserted in the
lower part of the hole of the rotating toothed element through
which the needle passes.
[0041] In a preferential embodiment, the bobbin that feeds the
strip of paillettes is positioned above the PAILLETTE foot and is
supported by an arm equipped with a pin on which the bobbin
rotates, attached to the structure of the machine.
[0042] In order to apply the paillettes three different systems are
possible: sequential, superimposed and with star point.
[0043] In the case of sequential application, the sewing needle
descends, enters the hole of the first paillette which is
simultaneously cut from the strip, and sews the first side; then,
while the needle ascends, the textile material on which the
paillette is applied is displaced by an entity equal to the
distance between the center of the paillette and its second side,
diametrically opposite the first. Then, the needle descends again,
attaching the paillette with a second stitch that encompasses the
second side, then the needle ascends while the textile material is
displaced by the same entity and the new paillette is thrust into
position under the needle which, during the descent, enters into
the hole of the new paillette, thus restarting the cycle.
[0044] In the case of a superimposed application, the sewing needle
descends, enters the hole of the first paillette, which is
simultaneously cut from the strip, and sews the first side. Then,
while the needle ascends, the textile material is displaced by an
entity equal to the distance between the center of the paillette
and its second side, diametrically opposite the first, and the new
paillette is thrust into position under the needle which, during
the descent, enters into the hole of the new paillette, which in
the meantime is cut from the strip, and sews the first side
together with the second side of the previous paillette. Finally,
while the needle ascends, the textile material is displaced by the
same entity and a new paillette is thrust into position under the
needle which, descending, enters into the hole of the new
paillette, thus restarting the cycle.
[0045] In the case of a star point application, the sewing needle
descends, enters the hole of the first paillette which is
simultaneously cut from the strip, and fixes the first side. Then,
while the needle ascends, the textile material is displaced by an
entity equal to the distance between the center of the paillette
and a peripheral point of the same paillette located at 120.degree.
from the first stitch made by the needle; then the needle descends
again and fixes this second side. While the needle ascends, the
textile material is displaced so that the center of the paillette
is in axis with the needle that descends again; then, while the
needle ascends, the textile material is again displaced by an
entity equal to the distance between the center of the paillette
and a peripheral point of the same paillette located at 120.degree.
from the second, then the needle descends again and fixes this
third side. While the needle ascends, the textile material is
displaced so that the center of the paillette is in axis with the
needle that descends again; then while the needle ascends, the
textile material is displaced by an entity equal to the distance
between the centers of two contiguous paillettes and finally the
needle descends again, enters the hole of the new paillette which
simultaneously is cut from the strip and the cycle begins
again.
[0046] Apart from the continuous application of paillettes, both
sequential and superimposed, and with star point, it is also
possible to alternate the application of paillettes with segments
of normal stitching or embroidery type, and thus create an
extremely high number of ornamental designs of considerable variety
and beauty.
[0047] The PAILLETTES type robotized foot is suitable to apply
paillettes of a varying diameter, for example 3 mm, 5 mm, 7 mm,
after suitable modifications.
[0048] In the embodiment that provides the possibility to apply
tapes, ribbons or trimmings disposed transverse to the direction of
feed of the fabrics, all the feet, standard or robotized, which are
possibly present on the front part of the auxiliary supporting bar
are dis-assembled, and a TRESSE' type slider must be applied, in
this case by means of the sliding linear guide.
[0049] The TRESSE' type slider is equipped with a toothed pulley
substantially equal to that of the ECORDING type robotized
feet.
[0050] On the TRESSE' type slider a device to cut the needle thread
is also provided and a clamping device to selectively clamp the
rotation of the toothed pulley so that, if the toothed pulley is
made to move when the pulley is clamped, the TRESSE' type slider is
drawn by the toothed belt and slides transversely on the
appropriate guide along the front part of the auxiliary supporting
bar.
[0051] In all the above cases, by suitably programming the movement
of the fabric, any type of ornamental design can be performed, from
the simplest with a linear development, to the most complex and
substantially similar to embroidery.
[0052] If tapes, ribbons and trimmings are to be applied, disposed
transverse to the direction of feed of the fabrics, to each of the
two ends of the front needle-bearing bar a needle is mounted
without the corresponding standard feet on the auxiliary supporting
bar, while on the rear needle-bearing bar a plurality of needles
are mounted, corresponding to the number of stitches that are to be
made, with the standard feet corresponding to the needles mounted,
on the rear part of the auxiliary supporting bar.
[0053] In this last case, the tape or ribbon or trimming to be
applied is made to pass in the corresponding hollow of the insert
of the toothed pulley of the TRESSE' type slider.
[0054] The sewing machine according to the invention can thus be
used both as a normal sewing machine, for example a multi-needle
quilting machine, and as an embroidery machine to apply strips,
ribbons, trimmings, crimped tapes, paillettes, on simple,
multi-layer or padded fabrics fed continuously from rolls, and as a
machine to apply ribbons, tapes or trimmings disposed transverse to
the direction of feed of the fabric, on simple, multi-layer or
padded fabrics fed continuously from rolls, and also as a machine
to crimp, also over their whole length, simple fabrics or fabrics
with a lining beneath, fed continuously from rolls.
[0055] With the present invention we thus obtain a single sewing
machine that allows to work textile material continuously at an
extremely high speed, up to 600-700 stitches a minute and more,
obtaining the desired ornamental designs from the simplest to the
most complex.
[0056] Moreover, the sewing machine according to the present
invention is extremely versatile and is potentially suitable to
apply other accessory elements in order to perform ornamental
embellishments with characteristics different from those cited
here.
[0057] The sewing machine according to the invention therefore has
high productivity, and entails a considerable economic saving both
because of the high working speed, and because of the possibility
of working continuously on material unwinding from rolls, and also
of performing a substantially unlimited number of ornamental
designs and patterns, and also because of the extreme flexibility
that allows it, simply and rapidly, to perform multiple
applications of ornamental designs, for each of which a specific
machine would normally be necessary.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0058] These and other characteristics of the present invention
will be apparent from the following description of some
preferential forms of embodiment, given as a non-restrictive
example, with reference to the attached drawings wherein:
[0059] FIG. 1 is a schematic view of an automatic multi-function
multi-needle sewing machine according to the present invention;
[0060] FIG. 2 is a three dimensional view of a first enlarged
detail of the sewing machine in FIG. 1;
[0061] FIG. 3 is a view from below of the detail in FIG. 2;
[0062] FIG. 4 is a three-dimensional view of a second enlarged
detail of the sewing machine in FIG. 1;
[0063] FIG. 5 is a view from below of the detail in FIG. 4;
[0064] FIG. 6 shows an ECORDING type robotized foot applicable to
the sewing machine in FIG. 1;
[0065] FIG. 7 shows a RIRI type robotized foot applicable to the
sewing machine in FIG. 1;
[0066] FIG. 8 shows a PLISSE' type robotized foot applicable to the
sewing machine in FIG. 1;
[0067] FIG. 9 shows a PAILLETTES type robotized foot applicable to
the sewing machine in FIG. 1;
[0068] FIG. 10 shows a longitudinal section of the PAILLETTES type
robotized foot in FIG. 9;
[0069] FIG. 11 shows the TRESSE' type slider with relative sliding
guide applicable to the sewing machine in FIG. 1;
[0070] FIG. 12 is a plane view of an enlarged detail of the TRESSE'
type slider in FIG. 11 in a first operating condition;
[0071] FIG. 13 is a plane view of an enlarged detail of the TRESSE'
type slider in FIG. 11 in a second operating condition.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF SOME PREFERENTIAL FORMS OF EMBODIMENT
[0072] With reference to FIG. 1, an automatic multi-function
multi-needle sewing machine 10 is shown, in this case a
multi-needle quilting machine with electronic command, of a
substantially conventional type.
[0073] The sewing machine 10 according to the invention
substantially comprises an inlet assembly 10a, a sewing assembly
10b and an outlet assembly 10c.
[0074] The inlet assembly 10a feeds the textile material 11 on
which the stitches are to be made, and is managed and controlled by
a control unit 17, so as to move the textile material 11 in any
direction whatsoever, backwards-forwards or left-right, in order to
make any design, even the most complex.
[0075] The sewing assembly 10b comprises upper sewing members 12
and lower sewing members 15 of a conventional type.
[0076] The upper sewing members 12 consist, in this case, (FIGS.
2-5) of two needle-bearing bars 13, respectively front 13a and rear
13b, parallel to each other, on which respective needles 14 are
mounted, aligned with each other, each one cooperating with a
respective thread 16, called the needle thread, fed from respective
reels 116 disposed on a creel adjacent to the machine 10.
[0077] The needle-bearing bars 13a and 13b have seatings 38 to
position the needles 14, which are clamped therein by means of
screws 39.
[0078] For a better understanding of the invention, FIGS. 2, 3, 4
and 5 show only some needles 14, it being obvious that according to
the type of stitch to be done all the seatings 38 can house a
relative needle 14.
[0079] The needle-bearing bars 13a and 13b are equipped with
alternating ascending-descending movement, to take the needles 14
to cooperate with the respective lower sewing members 15,
consisting in conventional fashion of shuttles, rotary crochets or
alternately mobile hooks.
[0080] The cooperation between the sewing members 12 and 15 (FIG.
1) determines the simultaneous formation on the textile material 11
of a plurality of stitches 18 which, according to the movement
imparted to the textile material 11, make desired patterns to
obtain the quilted manufactured article which is collected by the
outlet assembly 10c.
[0081] During the sewing cycle the needle-bearing bars 13a and 13b
cooperate with an auxiliary supporting bar 19, disposed
transversely, parallel to them and movable alternately in an
ascending-descending direction, in a manner correlated to the
movement of the needle-bearing bars 13a and 13b.
[0082] The auxiliary supporting bar 19 consists of a
high-resistance aluminum plate on the upper surface of which are
made, on both sides, a plurality of equidistant housings 20, whose
interaxis substantially corresponds with the distance between the
needles 14.
[0083] On the lower surface of the auxiliary supporting bar 19, a
plate 21 made of antifriction material is attached, having on both
flanks a longitudinal groove with a rectangular section 22, inside
which a toothed belt 23 slides, with a development such as to cover
the whole lateral perimeter of the auxiliary supporting bar 19.
[0084] The toothed belt 23 is made of flexible plastic material
with toothings on both sides, it slides inside the corresponding
grooves 22 of the antifriction plate 21, with one toothed side in
contact with the bottom of said grooves 22 and the other toothed
side protruding towards the outside.
[0085] At one end of the auxiliary supporting bar 19 a toothed
return pulley 24 and a toothed guide pulley 25 are assembled, both
idle.
[0086] The toothed belt 23 rotates around the return pulley 24
(FIG. 3) which, being adjustable, also functions as a tensioner and
is oriented by the guide pulley 25 which takes it to adhere
precisely to the bottom of the relative groove 22.
[0087] At the other end of the auxiliary supporting bar 19 (FIG. 5)
a command motor 26 is mounted, for example of the electric type, on
whose shaft a first command toothed pulley 27 is mounted, on which
the toothed belt 23 slides; and a second guide pulley 55, toothed
and idle, which allows the toothed belt 23 to adhere precisely to
the bottom of the relative groove 22.
[0088] According to a variant, the command motor 26 can be
electronic, electromechanical, pneumatic, hydraulic, magnetic or
other, and the toothed belt 23 can be a cable, a chain, a rack or
other.
[0089] The command motor 26 is managed by the control unit 17 of
the sewing machine 10 and is able to impart to the toothed belt 23
movements with a cadence, amplitude and direction that vary
according to the signals received from the control unit 17,
according to the operation to be performed, for example set by the
operator at the start-up of the machine 10.
[0090] When multiple stitches are to be done, with an unlimited
number of ornamental designs or patterns on simple, multi-layer or
padded fabrics 11, a plurality of standard static feet, simple 28
or triple 28a, are mounted on the supporting bar 19, in positions
corresponding to the needles 14.
[0091] Each standard foot 28 and 28a has a plane part 60 able to
fit precisely in a corresponding housing 20 and be fixed therein
with suitable screws 29, and a shaped part 61, spoon-shaped,
equipped with suitable holes through which the needles 14 pass,
mounted on the respective needle-bearing bars 13a and 13b.
[0092] When the standard feet 28 or 28a are fixed to the auxiliary
supporting bar 19, their spoon-shaped parts 61 protrude laterally
and downwards on both sides of the supporting bar 19, so that the
latter assumes the function of a fabric-pressing plate in which the
shaped parts 61 of the standard feet 28 and 28a press the materials
11 on which the stitches 18 are to be made, in the areas where the
needles 14 pass, so as to obtain well-knotted stitches especially
in the case of padded materials.
[0093] During this type of working, the auxiliary supporting bar 19
behaves like a simple fabric-pressing plate and the toothed belt 23
and the command motor 26 remain inactive.
[0094] When strips 33, ribbons or trimmings 34 are to be applied,
on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics 11, fed continuously from
rolls, instead of the feet 28, 28a, a plurality of ECORDING type
robotized feet 30 (FIG. 6) are mounted on the auxiliary supporting
bar 19, in positions corresponding to the needles 14 being used;
the feet 30 are also provided with a plane part 60, substantially
equivalent to that of the aforesaid standard feet 28, 28a, which is
inserted and fixed in the housings 20 of the auxiliary supporting
bar 19.
[0095] The ECORDING type robotized feet 30 are provided with a
toothed pulley 31 whose teeth, during use, cooperate with the
toothed belt 23, so that any movement whatsoever of the latter is
transmitted to the toothed pulleys 31.
[0096] The toothed pulleys 31 have axially a through hole 54,
inside which suitable cylindrical inserts 32 made of ceramic
material are inserted under pressure. Each cylindrical insert 32
has an axial hole 29 for the passage of the needle 14 and, in this
case, a hole 56 and two hollows 57 and 58 having different
diameters and widths. The hole 56 and the hollows 57 and 58 are
disposed eccentric with respect to the axial hole 29, and are
offset angularly by about 120.degree. one from the other. Through
the hole 56 and the hollows 57 and 58 the strips 33 or the tapes 34
are made to pass, normally fed by bobbins 35 (FIG. 1) disposed in
the upper part of the sewing machine 10.
[0097] There may be a different number of holes, for example two or
more, and the angle of rotation of the pulleys is consequently
modified.
[0098] For application on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics,
fed continuously from rolls, the strips 33 are advantageously made
to pass in the holes 56 with the diameter most similar to theirs.
This operation is performed automatically by the control unit 17,
which commands the motor 26 so that, according to the diameter of
the strip 33, the motor makes the toothed pulleys 31 rotate in
order to automatically position the corresponding holes 56 in the
correct working position with respect to the needles 14.
[0099] During normal sewing, performed with alternate
ascending-descending movements of the needle-bearing bars 13a and
13b and the mating auxiliary supporting bar 19, the command motor
26 imparts to the toothed belt 23 alternate movements simultaneous
with the stitches made by the sewing machine 10. This alternate
movement is consequently followed by all the toothed pulleys 31 of
the ECORDING type robotized feet 30 which, with every stitch,
perform a rotation alternately towards the right and towards the
left.
[0100] The alternate rotations, of programmable variable amplitude,
determine the spiral winding of the strips 33, around the relative
needles 14 and their threads 16, for an angle determined by the
angle of rotation of the command motor 26.
[0101] In this way, each strip 33 is fixed to the continuously fed
fabric 11 without the needle passing through the strip 33
itself.
[0102] In this condition the strips 33 are drawn downwards by the
descending movements of the needles 14 and sewn onto the textile
material 11 by the threads of the needles 16, according to the
ornamental design or profile programmed, from the simplest with a
linear development, to the most complex and substantially
comparable to embroidery.
[0103] If tapes 34 are to be fixed on simple, multi-layer or padded
fabrics 11 fed continuously from rolls, the same ECORDING type
robotized feet 30 are used, mounted in the positions corresponding
to the needles 14 intended to be used, and the tapes 34 are
threaded into the hollows 57 with the width most similar to theirs.
This operation too is performed automatically by the control unit
17 which, according to the type of tape 34 to be applied, commands
the motor 26 so that it makes the toothed pulleys 31 rotate in
order to automatically position the corresponding hollows 57 in the
correct working position with respect to the needles 14.
[0104] During normal sewing, performed with alternate
ascending-descending movements of the needle-bearing bars 13a and
13b and the auxiliary supporting bar 19, the command motor 26
imparts to the toothed belt 23 small corrective movements which the
toothed pulleys 31 of the feet translate into small rotations. In
this way, the ECORDING type robotized feet 30 constantly maintain
the tapes 34 in front of the needles 14, according to the direction
of stitching. Therefore, the tapes 34 are fixed on the simple,
multi-layer or padded fabrics 11 with stitches that are always at
the center of the tapes 34, according to the ornamental design or
profile programmed.
[0105] If crimped tapes 36 are to be applied (FIG. 7) on simple,
multi-layer or padded fabrics 11 fed continuously from rolls, a
plurality of RIRI type robotized feet 37 are mounted on the
auxiliary supporting bar 19, in positions corresponding to the
needles 14 in use. The RIRI type robotized feet 37 are also
provided with a plane part 60 identical to that of the standard
feet 28 and 28a and of the ECORDING type robotized feet 30. To be
more exact, the plane part 60 of each RIRI type robotized foot 37
is inserted into the corresponding housing 20 and fixed therein
with respective screws.
[0106] The function of the RIRI type robotized feet 37 is to make a
tape 36 advance intermittently, which is sewn by the needle 14 not
flattened, but fixed on the textile materials 11 with adjustable
crimping.
[0107] To obtain this, each RIRI type robotized foot 37 is equipped
with a toothed pulley 40 which has an axial hole 41 through which
the sewing needle 14 passes, and a cam 42 driving a pad 43 made of
antifriction material, sliding inside suitable guide hollows 44,
made in the body of the RIRI type robotized foot 37.
[0108] A movable blade 45 made of harmonic steel is fixed on the
pad 43 with a slight inclination; the lower free end thereof is
advantageously shaped like a saddle so as not to interfere with the
needle 14. The movable blade 45 slides with a slight pressure on a
fixed blade 46 beneath, also made of harmonic steel, rigidly fixed
to the RIRI type robotized foot 37. The tape 36, fed by the
relative bobbin, disposed in the upper part of the sewing machine
10, slides between the movable blade 45 and the fixed blade 46 and
is guided by two adjustable cursors 49 fixed at inlet to the RIRI
type robotized foot 37.
[0109] During normal sewing, performed with alternate
ascending-descending movements of the needle-bearing bars 13a and
13b and the mating supporting bar 19, the command motor 26 imparts
to the toothed belt 23 alternate movements of adjustable amplitude
that are repeated by the toothed pulleys 40 and transformed by the
cam 42 into alternate backwards-forwards movements of the pad 43
and consequently of the movable blade 45 with respect to the fixed
blade 46. In any case, the stitch can be either rectilinear, or
curved by 360.degree..
[0110] Due to the effect of the alternate movements, the movable
blade 45 thrusts the tape 36 forwards, making it slide on the fixed
blade 46 above the tape 36 already sewn previously on the textile
material 11, and takes it under the needle 14 so that it is sewn
above the previously sewn tape 36, thus creating the crimping. The
forward movement of the tape 36 is proportional to the movement
imparted by the toothed belt 23.
[0111] When the toothed belt 23 inverts its movement, the cam 42
makes the pad 43 and consequently the movable blade 45 retreat, so
that the tape 36 also returns backwards and is sewn simply by the
needle 14 onto the textile material 11 and so on.
[0112] In this way, by programming the control unit 17 with
different values, it is possible to vary the rotation of the
command motor 26 and consequently to make the movable blade 45
perform more or less ample travels. By doing this, it is possible
to obtain different crimpings of the tape 36.
[0113] By suitably programming the movement of the textile material
11, different ornamental designs can be performed, from the
simplest with a linear development to the most complex, similar to
embroidery.
[0114] If the crimping is to be performed over the whole width of
the fabrics 11, simple or with a lining beneath, fed continuously
from rolls, a plurality of PLISSE' type robotized feet 47 (FIG. 8)
are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar 19, in positions
corresponding to the needles 14.
[0115] The PLISSE' type robotized feet 47 are inserted with their
respective plane parts 60, identical to the previous ones, into the
mating housings 20 on the supporting bar 19, and fixed therein.
[0116] The PLISSE' type robotized feet 47 are similar to the RIRI
type robotized feet 37, except that they are not provided with the
fixed lower blade 46, so that the movable upper blade, indicated by
the reference number 45a, acts directly on the fabric 11 to be
crimped, making it slide alternately forwards, or above the sliding
surface for the fabrics of the sewing machine 10, in the case of a
simple fabric, or above the lining below, if it is present.
[0117] In this way, the needles 14 fix between them, or on the
lining below, the folds created by the movements of the respective
movable blades 45a.
[0118] The amplitude of feed of the fabric 11 to be crimped can be
modified by suitably programming the control unit 17, so as to make
the movable blade 45a perform more or less ample travels by means
of the toothed belt 23, thus obtaining different types of crimping
of the textile material 11.
[0119] On the contrary, if paillettes 80, strass, or other similar
ornamental elements, are to be applied by means of stitches on
simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics 11, fed continuously from
rolls, a plurality of robotized feet 70, called PAILLETTES type
feet, are mounted on the auxiliary supporting bar 19 by means of
said standardized attachment means, in the positions corresponding
to the needles 14 intended to be used. Apart from the standardized
plane part 60 that connects with the auxiliary supporting bar, the
feet 70 have a part 71 protruding laterally from the auxiliary
supporting bar 19 itself.
[0120] The PAILLETTES type robotized feet 70 are each equipped with
an assembly to feed and cut the paillettes 80, fed in the form of a
strip 81, and are commanded by a toothed pulley 72, rotating idle
on bearings 84 and having a central hole 73 through which the
relative sewing needle 14 passes.
[0121] Each of said toothed pulleys 72 is equipped in the lower
part with an eccentric element 74 which drives a sliding pad 74
made of antifriction material, on which a cursor 76 is fixed
carrying at its end a steel foil 77 shaped like a flexion spring.
The free end 77a, pointed, of said foil 77 slides on the bottom of
a longitudinal groove 78 made in the laterally protruding part of
the PAILLETTES foot 70, the size of said groove 78 being such that
the strip 81 that feeds the paillettes 80 slides precisely therein,
passing below the toothed pulley 72. In this case, as in the cases
previously described, the command motor 26 imparts to the toothed
belt 23 rotational movements which are repeated by the pulley 72 of
the PAILLETTES type robotized foot 70 and transformed by the
command cam 74 into alternate backwards-forwards movements of the
movable foil 77 with respect to the bottom of the groove 78. During
the backward movement, the tip 77a of the movable foil 77 is
elastically inserted into the hole 82 of one of the paillettes 80
of the strip 81 and, during the forward movement, thrusts forwards
the strip 81 that feeds the paillettes 80, making it slide on the
bottom of the groove 78 and making it advance by a quantity more or
less equal to the diameter of the paillettes 80 in use.
Consequently, the first paillette 80a of the strip 81 that has to
be applied finds itself with its hole 82 in axis with the hole 73
in the toothed pulley 72 through which the needle passes. To gauge
the exact position of the paillette 80, a centering device is
provided, consisting of a supporting pin 79 fixed to the protruding
part of the PAILLETTES foot 70. A ring 85 rotates on the pin 79,
bearing a positioning hook 86 with the same diameter as the hole 82
of the paillettes 80 in use, a drive lever 90 and a return-action
spiral spring 87. As already said, during the backward travel of
the sliding pad 75, the tip 77a of the feed foil 77, thanks to its
shape, jumps elastically from the hole 82 of the previous paillette
80 to that of the following paillette on the strip 81, without
making it slide backwards because it is braked by a felt 88 which
presses it against the bottom of the groove 78, while a peg 89
mounted on the cursor 76 thrusts the drive lever 90 backwards,
causing the positioning hook 86 to lift, the end of which,
hook-shaped, exits from the hole of the paillette 82 in which it
was inserted and also causes the spiral spring 87 to load.
[0122] During the forward travel of the sliding pad 75, the tip 77a
of the feed foil 77, thanks to its shape, enters into the hole 82
of a paillette 80 and thrusts the strip 81 forwards, making it
slide on the bottom of the groove 78, while the peg 89 gradually
releases the drive lever 90 and consequently, due to the effect of
the thrust of the spiral spring 87, the pointed hook of the
positioning hook 86, is lowered and inserted into the hole 82 of
the previous paillette 80 on the strip 81, exactly centering the
first paillette 80 with the axis of the relative sewing needle 14.
A plane contrasting foil 91, suitably shaped, keeps the strip 81
pressed inside the groove 78 in the last segment between the
positioning hook 86 and the toothed pulley 72.
[0123] Depending on the operating cycle, the feed movement of the
strip 81 occurs during the descending movement of the sewing needle
14, so that the needle 14 enters into the hole 82 of the paillette
80 to be applied (the first on the strip 81) at the moment when the
paillette 80 is centered with the axis of the needle 14 by the
positioning hook 86. At this point, it is necessary to cut the
paillette 80 from the strip 81 to allow it to be fixed on the
fabric by the sewing needle 14.
[0124] To this purpose a rotary blade 92 is provided, consisting of
a hardened steel ring 93 inserted into the lower part of the hole
73 in the toothed pulley 72 where the needle passes. The ring 93
has a protuberance in the part facing downwards which protrudes
from the lower plane of the toothed pulley 72; the protuberance in
turn has a small sharpened platelet 94 rotating in a circular
groove which, during its rotation, comes into contact with the side
of the strip 81 and is inserted into the throat between one
paillette 80 and the next, cutting the first paillette 80 at the
moment after that when the needle 14 has entered the hole 82 of the
paillette 80. The bobbin that feeds the strip 81 is positioned
above the paillettes foot 70 and is supported by an arm equipped
with a pin on which the bobbin rotates, attached to the structure
of the machine.
[0125] According to the invention, the feed foil 77 and the support
of the rotation pin 79 of the positioning hook 86 are adjustable so
as to allow the exact phasing thereof and to obtain the exact
distance between the hole 82 of the paillette 80 in which the
positioning hook 86 is inserted, and the first paillette 80 of the
strip 81 that is to be applied.
[0126] As already said above, the paillettes 80 can be applied on
the fabric 11 in three different ways: sequential, superimposed and
with star point, which have already been described in detail.
[0127] Apart from the continuous application of paillettes 80, both
sequential, superimposed and with star point, it is also possible
to alternate the application of paillettes with segments of normal
stitching or embroidery type stitching, and thus create a very
large number of ornamental patterns.
[0128] The PAILLETTES type robotized foot 70 is suitable to apply
paillettes 80 of variable diameter, for example 3 mm, 5 mm, 7 mm,
by making the necessary modifications and adjustments of the
components.
[0129] On the contrary, when tapes, ribbons or trimmings 48 are to
be applied, disposed transverse to the direction of advance of the
fabrics 11 on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics, all the
standard feet 28, 28a or robotized 30, 37, 47, which are possibly
present on the front part of the auxiliary supporting bar 19, are
dis-assembled, and on the front part of the auxiliary supporting
bar 19, a suitable sliding guide 50 is applied (FIGS. 9, 10, 11) on
which a particular slider slides, called TRESSE' 51.
[0130] The TRESSE' type slider 51 is similar to the ECORDING type
robotized foot 30, since it is equipped with a toothed pulley 31a
substantially equal to that of the ECORDING type robotized feet 30,
provided with the same insert made of ceramic material, in this
case indicated in its entirety by the reference number 32a,
provided with a central hole 61 for the needle 14a.
[0131] The TRESSE' type slider 51 is provided with a clamping
device 52 able to selectively clamp the rotation of the toothed
pulley 31a so that, when the latter is clamped, the movement of the
toothed belt 23 determines the movement of the TRESSE' type slider
51 along the corresponding guide 50, transverse to the fabric
11.
[0132] Moreover, in this embodiment, a needle 14a is mounted at
every one of the ends of the needle-bearing bar 13a, without the
corresponding standard feet 28, 28a on the auxiliary supporting bar
19, while on the needle-bearing bar 13b a plurality of needles 14
are mounted, corresponding to the number of stitches to be
performed, with the standard feet 28 mounted on the rear part of
the auxiliary supporting bar 19, in correspondence with the needles
14.
[0133] In this case, the tape or ribbon or trimming 48 is fed from
a bobbin, of a substantially conventional type and not shown in the
drawings, and is made to pass in a corresponding hollow 62 made
through on the insert 32a of the toothed pulley 31a.
[0134] The TRESSE' type slider 51 substantially provides the
following functioning cycle.
[0135] In a first step, the TRESSE' type slider 51 is stationary,
for example at the right end of the auxiliary supporting bar 19. In
this case, the toothed pulley 31a is clamped by the clamping device
52 (FIG. 10) in a position such that its central hole 61 is in axis
with the needle 14a mounted at the right end of the needle-bearing
bar 13a, and its hollow 62 through which the tape 48 passes is
behind said needle 14a with respect to the side on which the
fabrics 11 are inserted.
[0136] In a second step, the sewing machine 10 starts to sew, the
fabrics 11 are fed forwards, all the needles 14 perform parallel
stitches and the stitch of the needle 14a mounted at the right end
of the needle-bearing bar 13a fixes the tape 48 to the fabric 11.
In this step, the TRESSE' type slider 51 acts as a fabric pressing
element.
[0137] In a third step of the cycle, the needles 14 stop in a high
position, the feed of the fabric 11 is stopped and the clamping
device 52 releases the toothed pulley 31a (FIG. 11). In this
condition, the command motor 26 of the toothed belt 23 performs a
small rotation sufficient to make the toothed pulley 31a rotate by
90.degree., so that the hollow through which the tape 48 passes
moves to the left of the needle 14a with respect to the side on
which the fabrics are inserted. At the end of this rotation, the
clamping device 52 clamps the toothed pulley 31a in the position
reached.
[0138] In a fourth step, the command motor 26 moves the toothed
belt 23, which draws the TRESSE' type slider 51 along the sliding
guide 50 until it covers the whole width of the fabric 11. During
this travel, the tape 48 passes through the corresponding hollow 62
and is laid transverse on the fabric 11.
[0139] In a fifth step, the TRESSE' type slider 51 reaches the left
end of the auxiliary supporting bar 19 and the central hole 61 of
its toothed pulley 31a is in axis with the needle 14a mounted at
the left end of the needle-bearing bar 13a.
[0140] In this condition, the command motor 26 of the toothed belt
23 stops and the clamping device 52 releases the toothed pulley
31a. At this point the command motor 26 performs a small rotation
sufficient to make the toothed pulley 31a rotate by 90.degree. to
take the hollow 62 behind the needle 14a, with respect to the side
on which the fabrics are inserted.
[0141] Subsequently, a sixth step is performed in which the sewing
machine 10 starts sewing. In this step, the fabrics 11 are made to
advance and the needles 14 perform parallel stitches so that the
needle 14a fixes the tape 48 to the fabric 11, while the stitches
of the needles 14 mounted on the needle-bearing bar 13b fix the
tape 48 on the fabric 11 as it is laid transversely during the
fourth step.
[0142] In a subsequent seventh step of the cycle, the needles 14
stop in a high position, the fabric 11 stops and the clamping
device 52 releases the toothed pulley 31a. In this condition the
command motor 26 of the toothed belt 23 performs a small rotation
sufficient to make the toothed pulley 31a rotate through
90.degree., so that the hollow 62 moves to the right of the needle
14a, with respect to the side on which the fabrics 11 are inserted.
When this rotation has been performed, the clamping device 52
clamps the toothed pulley 31a in the position reached.
[0143] In an eighth step of the cycle, the command motor 26 makes
the toothed belt 23 move in order to draw the TRESSE' type slider
51 along the sliding guide 50 until the central hole 61 of the
pulley 31a is in axis with the needle 14a mounted at the left end
of the needle-bearing bar 13a. This drawing of the TRESSE' type
slider 51 causes the tape 48 to be laid transversely for the whole
width of the fabric 11.
[0144] At this point the conditions of the first step are restored
and a new cycle is started.
[0145] At the end of the functioning cycle we obtain the
application, by means of parallel stitches, of tapes, ribbons or
trimmings 48, disposed transverse to the direction of feed of the
fabric 11, on simple, multi-layer or padded fabrics, fed
continuously from rolls.
[0146] It is clear, however, that modifications and/or additions of
parts may be made to the sewing machine 10 as described heretofore,
without departing from the field of protection of the present
invention.
[0147] For example, it comes within the field of the invention to
provide that the movement of the toothed belt 23 can be supplied,
instead of by the command motor 26, by any suitable drive means,
for example of a pneumatic, hydraulic, mechanical, electromagnetic
or other type.
[0148] It also comes within the field of the present invention that
the toothed belt 23 can be replaced by another transmission
element, such as for example a chain, a rack or other.
[0149] It is also clear that, although the present invention has
been described with reference to specific examples, a person of
skill in the art shall certainly be able to achieve many other
equivalent forms of automatic multi-function multi-needle sewing
machine and relative sewing method, having the characteristics as
set forth in the claims and hence all coming within the field of
protection defined thereby.
* * * * *