U.S. patent application number 12/003320 was filed with the patent office on 2008-08-07 for method for permanently reshaping keratin fibers comprising applying a poorly concentrated reducing composition and intermediate drying.
Invention is credited to Catherine Campain.
Application Number | 20080185014 12/003320 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 38289971 |
Filed Date | 2008-08-07 |
United States Patent
Application |
20080185014 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Campain; Catherine |
August 7, 2008 |
Method for permanently reshaping keratin fibers comprising applying
a poorly concentrated reducing composition and intermediate
drying
Abstract
The present disclosure relates to a method for permanently
reshaping the keratin fibers, for example for permanently reshaping
the hair, comprising: mechanically setting the keratin fibers under
tension by winding the same around at least one mechanical
tensioning device, said at least one device being flexible and
closable upon itself, so as to form a curl, applying onto the
keratin fibers at least one reducing composition, so as to reduce
the keratin disulfide bonds, an optional rinsing, drying the
keratin fibers, and applying at least one oxidizin composition, to
reform said bonds.
Inventors: |
Campain; Catherine; (Paris,
FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
FINNEGAN, HENDERSON, FARABOW, GARRETT & DUNNER;LLP
901 NEW YORK AVENUE, NW
WASHINGTON
DC
20001-4413
US
|
Family ID: |
38289971 |
Appl. No.: |
12/003320 |
Filed: |
December 21, 2007 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
60907307 |
Mar 28, 2007 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
132/210 ;
132/200; 132/314; 242/430 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A45D 7/06 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
132/210 ;
242/430; 132/200; 132/314 |
International
Class: |
A45D 7/00 20060101
A45D007/00; B65H 54/02 20060101 B65H054/02; A45D 40/24 20060101
A45D040/24 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Dec 22, 2006 |
FR |
0655915 |
Claims
1. A method for permanently reshaping the keratin fibers,
comprising: mechanically setting the keratin fibers under tension
by winding the keratin fibers around at least one mechanical
tensioning device so as to form a curl, wherein said device is
flexible and closable upon itself; applying onto the keratin fibers
at least one reducing composition, so as to reduce the keratin
disulfide bonds, optionally rinsing the keratin fibers, drying the
keratin fibers, and applying at least one oxidizing composition, to
reform said bonds.
2. A method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
mechanical tensioning device is at least one curler or at least one
curlpaper.
3. A method according to claim 2, wherein the at least one curler
is a tulip-type curler.
4. A method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one reducing
composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at
least one reducing agent chosen from sulfites, bisulfites, thiols
and phosphines.
5. A method according to claim 4, wherein the at least one reducing
agent is chosen from L-cysteine, D-cysteine, L,D-cysteine, and the
salts thereof; thiolactic acid, and the salts and esters thereof;
and thioglycolic acid, and the salts and esters thereof.
6. A method according to claim 5, wherein the at least one reducing
agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the reducing composition.
7. A method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one reducing
composition is left to stand for a time period ranging from 1 to 50
minutes.
8. A method according to claim 1, wherein the pH value of the at
least one reducing composition ranges from 7.5 to 11.
9. A method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
oxidizing composition comprises at least one oxidizing agent chosen
from hydrogen peroxide, carbamide peroxide, alkaline bromates,
polythionates, persalts, percarbonates and persulfates.
10. A method according to claim 9, wherein the at least one
oxidizing agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by
weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing
composition.
11. A method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
oxidizing composition is left to stand for a time period ranging
from 2 to 30 minutes.
12. A method according to claim 1, wherein the pH value of the at
least one oxidizing composition ranges from 1.5 to 4.5.
13. A method according to claim 1, further comprising, following
the application of the at least one reducing composition and/or
following the application of the at least one oxidizing
composition, with rinsing the keratin fibers with water.
14. A method according to claim 1, wherein the application of the
at least one reducing composition is effected under heating or is
immediately followed with a heating operation.
15. A method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
reducing composition and/or the at least one oxidizing composition
are, independently of each other, in a form chosen from a lotion,
thickened or not thickened; a cream; a gel; and a foam.
16. A method according to claim 1, wherein the mechanically setting
the keratin fibers under tension occurs after applying at least one
hair-care composition which comprises at least one cationic polymer
and/or at least one silicone.
17. A method according to claim 16, wherein the application of the
at least one hair-care composition is followed by rinsing.
18. A multi-compartment kit, comprising: at least one mechanical
tensioning device, wherein said at least one device is flexible and
closable upon itself, a first compartment comprising at least one
cosmetic composition comprising at least one reducing agent, and a
second compartment comprising at least one cosmetic composition,
which comprises at least one oxidizing agent.
Description
[0001] This application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional
Application No. 60/907,307, filed Mar. 28, 2007, the contents of
which are incorporated herein by reference. This application also
claims benefit of priority under 35 U.S.C. .sctn. 119 to French
Patent Application No. FR 0655915, filed Dec. 22, 2006, the
contents of which are also incorporated herein by reference.
[0002] Disclosed herein is a method for permanently reshaping hair
comprising a hair drying step between applying at least one
reducing composition to the hair and applying at least one
oxidizing composition to the hair, this method being associated
with the use of a device for mechanically setting the hair under
tension, said device being flexible and closable upon itself, so as
to form a curl.
[0003] The most usual art to obtain a permanent deformation of the
hair comprises, in a first step, opening the keratin S--S disulfide
bonds (cystine) with a composition comprising a suitable reducing
agent (reducing step) then, once the thus treated hair has been
rinsed, generally with water, reforming in a second step said
disulfide bonds, by applying onto the hair which has been placed
beforehand under tension, using curlers for example, an oxidizing
composition (oxidizing step, also called fixing step) so as to give
the hair the expected form in the end. This method thus makes it
possible to wave the hair (perm method). The new shape that has
been imposed to the hair by means of a chemical treatment, such as
hereabove, may be temporally substantially long-lasting and may
resist washing operations with water or shampoo, as opposed to the
usual simple methods for temporarily reshaping the hair using a
set.
[0004] Tension provided by curlers often allows one to provide a
hair lifting at the root level leading to an expansion of the hair
volume, thus inherently causing a curling of the whole hair
strand.
[0005] However, some people may like to increase their hair volume,
without obtaining frizzy hair. In other words, while it may be
desirable to be able to produce a hair volume expansion, there is
also a need for replacing the curliness along the whole hair strand
inherent in the hair shaping traditional methods, which are often
substantially bidimensional, with full three-dimensional
spiral-shaped curls.
[0006] There is hence a need for a method for permanently reshaping
the hair that would be able to durably provide a hair volume
expansion by lifting the same at the root level, together with
three-dimensional formed curls.
[0007] While the hair setting using a round iron makes it possible
to obtain this type of spiral-shaped full curls, these often
disappear as soon as the first shampoo is done, because of the
breaking of the created ionic and saline bonds.
[0008] Using usual rollers during the traditional hair shaping
method is not satisfying either, since this method type may lead to
a temporally poor quality hair fixing and does not allow
three-dimensional shaped curls to be formed. No one of the
described methods does thus lead to a fully satisfying permanently
reshaping method as regards the hereabove mentioned problems.
[0009] The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the previously
mentioned drawbacks of the prior art may be solved thanks to a
method for permanently reshaping the keratin fibers, comprising
drying the keratin fibers between applying at least one reducing
composition and applying at least one oxidation fixing composition,
such method being associated with the use of devices for
mechanically setting the keratin fibers under tension, said devices
being flexible and closable upon themselves so as to form a curl.
Thus, disclosed herein is a method for permanently reshaping the
keratin fibers, such as for permanently reshaping the hair,
comprising:
[0010] mechanically setting the keratin fibers under tension by
winding the same around a mechanical tensioning device, said device
being flexible and closable upon itself, so as to form a curl;
[0011] applying onto the keratin fibers at least one reducing
composition, so as to reduce the keratin disulfide bonds;
optionally rinsing the keratin fibers,
[0012] drying the keratin fibers; and
[0013] applying onto the keratin fibers at least one oxidizing
composition.
[0014] The hereabove mentioned method can allow one to produce,
rapidly and durably, a keratin fiber volume expansion, such as a
hair volume expansion, by lifting the keratin fibers at the root
level, together with three-dimensional formed curls.
[0015] As used herein, "flexible" means a device comprising for all
or part of its whole length a material that is sufficiently supple
for said device be able to be folded upon itself and form a curl.
Such material may, for example, be a plastic malleable, molded,
aerated or foamed material, a metallized or non metallized paper, a
fibrous material, such as cord and twine, or a non woven
material.
[0016] As used herein, "closable" means a device which makes it
possible to form a curl along at least one part of its length.
[0017] In at least one embodiment, the mechanical tensioning device
is a curler or a suitable curlpaper. In another embodiment, the
curler used during hair tensioning is a tulip-type curler
comprising a body-forming extended rod, ending at one end thereof
with a head comprising at least one hole. The curler body is made
in a flexible material, so that its free end may be introduced into
the at least one head hole and be fixedly maintained there by an
elastic clamping. A curler of the hereabove type, suitable for
implementing the method of the disclosure is, for example,
described in the French Patent Application No. FR 2 602 650.
[0018] Using at least one tulip-type curler can make it possible to
control the tension applied onto the hair and thus to give a
rounded form to hair strands during the treatment time, without
excessively pulling the hair, as opposed to what often happens with
most cylindrical curlers. Using at least one tulip-type curler in
the context of the method disclosed herein also may allow one to
avoid the problematic marks often formed at the hair root and to
obtain three-dimensional, spiral-shaped curls, the amplitude of
which may vary depending on the amount of tulip-type curlers used,
rather than the bidimensional waving of the hair strands which is
often produced with cylindrical curlers. The winding of the at
least one curler may be conducted either on the whole hair length,
or on half-length for long-length hair.
[0019] Depending on the hair shape and on the expected curl volume,
the winding up is carried out on more or less thick hair
strands.
[0020] To obtain a result similar to that described hereabove, at
least one curlpaper may be used instead of the at least one
tulip-type curler, provided that the hair be wound on the at least
one curlpaper and this curlpaper is folded upon itself to form a
curl.
[0021] The at least one reducing composition used in the method
disclosed herein can comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable medium,
at least one reducing agent chosen from sulfites, bisulfites,
thiols and phosphines.
[0022] Suitable examples of sulfites and bisulfites to be used
include, but are not limited to, alkaline metal or alkaline-earth
metal, or ammonium sulfites or bisulfites, and sodium, potassium or
monoethanol amine sulfite or bisulfite.
[0023] In at least one embodiment, the at least one thiol used as
the at least one reducing agent in the reducing composition is
chosen from cysteine and derivatives thereof, such as
N-acetylcysteine, cysteamine and derivatives thereof, such as from
C1-C4 acyl derivatives thereof, such as N-acetyl cysteamine and
N-propionyl cysteamine; thiolactic acid and esters thereof, such as
glycerol monothiolactate, thioglycolic acid and esters thereof,
such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol; and
mixtures thereof.
[0024] Suitable examples of thiols to be used in the at least one
reducing composition used according to the disclosure further
include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercapto alkyl amides,
such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, .beta.-mercaptopropionic
acid and derivatives thereof; thiomalic acid; pantheteine;
N-(mercaptoalkyl).omega.-hydroxyalkyl amides, such as those
described in the European Patent Application Publication No.
EP-A-354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides, such
as those described in the European Patent Application Publication
No. EP-A-368 763; aminomercaptoalkyl amides, such as those
described in the European Patent Application Publication No.
EP-A-432 000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides, such as those
described in the European Patent Application Publication No.
EP-A-514 282; and (2/3) hydroxy-2 propyl thioglycolate and
hydroxy-2 methyl-1 ethyl thioglycolate-based mixture (67/33)
described in the French Patent Application Publication No. FR-A-2
679 448.
[0025] In at least one embodiment, cysteine is used.
[0026] The at least one reducing agent can be present in an amount
for each ranging from 0.5 to 10% relative to the total weight of
the reducing composition, such as from 1 to 8% or from 2 to 7% by
weight.
[0027] According to at least one embodiment, the at least one
reducing composition is allowed to react for a period of time
ranging from 1 to 50 minutes, for example for from 1 to 30
minutes.
[0028] During or after application of the at least one reducing
composition, the keratin fibers are submitted to a thermal
treatment by heating, for example to a temperature ranging from 30
to 250.degree. C. for part of or all the reaction time defined
hereabove. In practice, this operation may, for example, be
conducted by using a hood hair dryer, a hair dryer, a round iron or
a flat iron, an IR-emitting device and other heating devices, and
in some cases under a plastic film.
[0029] The pH value of the reducing composition of the disclosure
ranges, for example, from 7.5 to 11, such as from 8 to 9.5.
[0030] The pH value of the reducing composition of the disclosure
may be obtained and/or adjusted by adding at least one alkaline
agent, such as for example ammonia, monoethanol amine, diethanol
amine, triethanol amine, isopropanol amine,
2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol, propanediamine-1,3, alkaline or
ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, sodium carbonate and
bicarbonate, an organic carbonate, such as guanidine carbonate, or
mixtures thereof; or at least one acidifying agent, such as for
example hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid,
citric acid and/or phosphoric acid.
[0031] For improving the cosmetic properties of the hair fibers or
to reduce or prevent their damage, the at least one reducing
composition used in the method of the disclosure may also comprise
at least one cosmetic active agent.
[0032] The at least one cosmetic active agent can be chosen from
volatile or non volatile, linear or cyclic, amine-type or not,
silicones; cationic, anionic, non ionic or amphoteric polymers,
peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; synthetic
or natural waxes; and fatty alcohols, swelling agents and
penetrating agents or agents intended to improve the efficiency of
the at least one reducing agent; and other active compounds, such
as anionic, cationic, non ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactants; agents for combating hair loss; anti-dandruff agents,
associative-type or not; natural or synthetic thickeners;
suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes;
sunscreen agents; fillers; vitamins or provitamins; mineral,
vegetable or synthetic oils; fragrances; preserving agents;
stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
[0033] In at least one embodiment, the at least one reducing
composition comprises at least one cationic polymer and/or at least
one silicone.
[0034] As used herein, a "cationic polymer" means any polymer
comprising cationic groups or groups ionizable to cationic
groups.
[0035] In one embodiment, the at least one cationic polymer is
chosen from those comprising units containing primary, secondary,
tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups, that either may belong to
the polymer main chain, or are carried by a side substituent that
is directly bound to it.
[0036] The at least one cationic polymer that can be used has
generally a number average molecular weight ranging from 500 to
5.times.10.sup.6, for example from 103 to 3.times.10.sup.6.
[0037] In at least one embodiment, the at least one cationic
polymer is chosen from polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary
polyammonium type polymers.
[0038] These are known products. They are, for example, described
in the French Patent Nos. 2 505 348 and 2 542 997. Examples of said
cationic polymers include, but are not limited to:
[0039] (1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or
methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one unit of
following formulae (I), (II), (III) or (IV):
##STR00001##
wherein:
[0040] R.sub.3, being the same or different, is chosen from
hydrogen atoms and CH.sub.3 radicals;
[0041] A, being the same or different, is chosen from linear or
branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as
2 or 3 carbon atoms, and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4
carbon atoms;
[0042] R.sub.4, R.sub.5, R.sub.6, being the same or different, are
chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and
benzyl radicals, for example alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6
carbon atoms;
[0043] R.sub.1 and R.sub.2, being the same or different, are chosen
from hydrogen atoms and alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon
atoms, for example methyl or ethyl groups;
[0044] An anion X is optionally present, and when present is an
anion derived from a mineral or an organic acid, such as a
methosulfate anion or a halide, such as chloride or bromide.
[0045] Polymers of family (1) may further comprise at least one
unit derived from comonomers that may be chosen from acrylamides,
methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and
methacrylamides substituted on a nitrogen atom with lower from
(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl groups, acrylic or methacrylic acids or
esters thereof, vinyl lactames, such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl
caprolactame, and vinyl esters.
[0046] Thus, these polymers of family (1) include, for example, but
are not limited to: [0047] copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyl
aminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or
dimethyl halide, such as the one marketed under the name HERCOFLOC
by HERCULES; [0048] copolymers of acrylamide and
methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride described, for
example, in European Patent Application No. A-080976, such as
products marketed under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by CIBA GEIGY;
[0049] copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl
trimethylammonium methosulfate, such as products marketed under the
name RETEN by HERCULES; [0050] copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and
dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate, quaternized or not,
such as products marketed under the name "GAFQUAT" by ISP, for
example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or products called
"COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are also described in
detail in French Patent Nos. 2 077 143 and 2 393 573; [0051]
terpolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactame
and vinyl pyrrolidone, such as the product marketed under the name
GAFFIX VC 713 by ISP; [0052] copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and
methacrylamidopropyl dimethyl amine marketed, for example, under
the trade name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP; and quaternized copolymers of
vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, such as
the product marketed under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by ISP.
[0053] (2) Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary
ammonium groups, such as those described in the French Patent No. 1
492 597, and for instance, polymers marketed under the trade names
"JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union
Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA
dictionary as being hydroxyethylcellulose quaternary ammonium
compounds having reacted with an epoxide substituted with a
trimethylammonium group.
[0054] (3) Cationic cellulose derivatives, such as copolymers of
cellulose or cellulose derivatives graft with a quaternary ammonium
hydrosoluble monomer, and described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No.
4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for example
hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses graft,
for example, with a methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium,
methacryImidopropyl trimethylammonium, or a dimethyl
diallylammonium salt.
[0055] The products marketed corresponding to this definition
include, but are not limited to, products marketed under the name
"Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by National Starch.
[0056] (4) Cationic polysaccharides, such as those described in
U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums
comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups. Guar gums modified
with a 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium (e.g. chloride) salt may
be used, for example.
[0057] Such products are marketed, for example, under the trade
names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by
MEYHALL.
[0058] (5) Polymers comprising piperazinyl units and alkylene or
hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals with straight or branched chains,
optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or with
aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation products
and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers
are, for example, described in French Patent Nos. 2 162 025 and 2
280 361.
[0059] (6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides such as those prepared by
polycondensing an acidic compound with a polyamine; these
polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with an epihalohydrine, a
diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a
bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrine, a bis-azetidinium, a
bis-haloacyidiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or with an oligomer
resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive
against a bis-halohydrine, a bis-azetidinium, a
bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epilhalohydrine, a
diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent
being used in amounts ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine
group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated
or, in the event they have at least one tertiary amine functional
group, quaternized. Such polymers are, for example, described in
French Patent Nos. 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
[0060] (7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the
condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids,
followed with an alkylation with bifunctional agents. Polymers of
adipic acid and dialkylaminohydroxyalkyl dialkylene triamine may be
mentioned, for example, wherein the alkyl radical comprises from 1
to 4 carbon atoms and is chosen from methyl, ethyl and propyl
groups. Such polymers are, for example, described in French Patent
No. 1 583 363.
[0061] Examples of these derivatives include, but are not limited
to, polymers of adipic acid, dimethylaminohydroxypropyl and
diethylene triamine marketed under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or
F8" by Sandoz.
[0062] (8) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine
comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary
amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid
and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising from 3 to 8
carbon atoms. The molar ratio of the polyalkylene polyamine to the
dicarboxylic acid ranges from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1. The thus resulting
polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorhydrine according to a molar
ratio of epichlorhydrine to the at least one secondary amine group
of the polyaminoamide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Such polymers
are, for example, described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and
2,961,347.
[0063] Polymers of this type are, for example, marketed under the
trade name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the trade name
"PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the copolymer
of adipic acid, epoxypropyl and diethylene triamine.
[0064] (9) Cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl
ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising as a main
substituent of the chain units of formulae (V) or (VI):
##STR00002##
wherein k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1; R.sub.9
is chosen from hydrogen atoms and methyl radicals; R.sub.7 and
R.sub.8, independently from each other, are chosen from alkyl
groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups
wherein the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and
lower amido(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl groups, or R.sub.7 and R.sub.8
may represent together with the nitrogen atom to which they are
bound, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; in
one embodiment, R.sub.7 and R.sub.8 independently from each other
represent an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
Y.sup.- is an anion, such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate,
citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These
polymers are, for example, described in French Patent No. 2 080 759
and in related French Patent No. 2 190 406.
[0065] The previously defined polymers also encompass, for example,
the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer marketed under the
name "Merquat 100" by Calgon (as well as its homologues having a
low weight average molecular weight) and copolymers of
diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide marketed under the
trade name "MERQUAT 550".
[0066] (10) Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating
units of formula (VII):
##STR00003##
R.sub.10, R.sub.11, R.sub.12 and R.sub.13, being the same or
different, are chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, or aryl aliphatic
radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkyl
aliphatic radicals, or R.sub.10, R.sub.11, R.sub.12 and R.sub.13,
taken together or separately, form together with the nitrogen atoms
to which they are bound heterocycles optionally comprising a second
heteroatom different from nitrogen, or R.sub.10, R.sub.11, R.sub.12
and R.sub.13 represent a linear or branched, from C.sub.1-C.sub.6
alkyl radical, substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or
--CO--O--R.sub.14-D or --CO--NH--R.sub.14-D group, where R.sub.14
is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;
[0067] A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups comprising from 2
to 20 carbon atoms that may be linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated, and that may contain, bound to or inserted within the
main chain, at least one aromatic ring, or at least one oxygen or
sulfur atom, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino,
hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester group,
and
[0068] X.sup.- represents an anion derived from a mineral or an
organic acid;
[0069] A.sub.1, R.sub.10 and R.sub.12 may form together with the
two nitrogen atoms to which they are bound a piperazine ring;
moreover, if A1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also
represent a --(CH.sub.2)n-CO-D-OC--(CH.sub.2)n- group, wherein D is
chosen from:
[0070] a) glycol residues of formula: --O-Z-O--, where Z represents
a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group having one of
the following formulae:
--(CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--O)x-CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2-- and
--[CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)--O]y-CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)--
[0071] wherein x and y represent an integer ranging from 1 to 4
corresponding to a defined and unique polymerization degree, or any
number ranging from 1 to 4 corresponding to a medium polymerization
degree;
[0072] b) bis-secondary diamine residues, such as a piperazine
derivative;
[0073] c) bis-primary diamine residues of formula: --NH--Y--NH--,
wherein Y represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or
the bivalent radical
--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--S--S--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--; and
[0074] d) ureylene groups of formula: --NH--CO--NH--.
[0075] In at least one embodiment, X.sup.- is an anion chosen from
chloride and bromide.
[0076] These polymers have a number average molecular weight
generally ranging from 1000 to 100,000.
[0077] Such polymers are, for example, described in French Patent
Nos. 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 as
well as in the U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614,
2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432,
3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653,
4,026,945 and 4,027,020.
[0078] In one embodiment, such polymers that may be used comprise
repeating units of formula (VIII):
##STR00004##
[0079] wherein R.sub.10, R.sub.11, R.sub.12 and R.sub.13, being the
same or different, represent alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals
comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging
from 2 to 20 and X.sup.- is an anion derived from a mineral or an
organic acid. Hexadimethrine chloride (INCI name), marketed by
CHIMEX under the reference MEXOMERE PO maybe mentioned as a
non-limiting example;
[0080] (11) Quaternary polyammonium compounds comprising repeating
units of formula (IX):
##STR00005##
wherein p represents an integer ranging from 1 to 6, D may be zero
or may represent a --(CH.sub.2).sub.r--CO-- group, wherein r
represents a number equal to 4 or 7, and X.sup.- is an anion;
[0081] Such polymers may be prepared according to methods described
in the U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906, and 4,719,282. They
are, for example, described in the European Patent Application No.
EP-A-122 324.
[0082] Suitable examples thereof include, but are not limited to,
"Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1", "Mirapol AZ1" and "Mirapol 175"
products sold by Miranol.
[0083] (12) Quaternary polymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl
imidazole, such as for example the products marketed under the
trade names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF.
[0084] (13) Polyamines, such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, under
the reference "POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the
CTFA dictionary.
[0085] (14) Crosslinked polymers of
methacryloyloxyalkyl(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)
trialkyl(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)ammonium salts, such as polymers obtained
by homopolymerizing dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized
with methyl chloride, or by copolymerizing acrylamide with
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride,
where the homo- or copolymerization are followed with a
crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, for example
methylene bis acrylamide. In one embodiment, a crosslinked
copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium
chloride (20:80 by weight) may be used in the form of a dispersion
comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. Such
dispersion is marketed, for example, under the trade name
"SALCARE.RTM. SC 92" by ALLIED COLLOIDS. A crosslinked homopolymer
of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride may also be
used, comprising about 50% by weight of said homopolymer in mineral
oil or in a liquid ester. Such dispersions are marketed, for
example, under the trade names "SALCARE.RTM.) SC 95" and
"SALCARE.RTM. SC 96" by ALLIED COLLOIDS.
[0086] Non-limiting examples of other cationic polymers to be
suitably used in the context of the present disclosure are
polyalkylene imines, such as polyethylene imines, polymers
comprising vinyl pyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of
polyamines and epichlorhydrine, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin
derivatives.
[0087] In at least one embodiment, the cationic polymer that is
used in the context of the present disclosure, is a cationic
polymer belonging to family (10) and, for example, hexadimethrine
chloride (INCI name), marketed by CHIMEX under the reference
MEXOMERE PO.
[0088] The cationic polymer content in the composition of the
disclosure may vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition, such as from 0.05 to 5% or from
0.1 to 3%.
[0089] As discussed above, the at least one cosmetic active agent
that may be used in the composition of the disclosure may also be
chosen from silicones.
[0090] In one embodiment, silicones that are optionally present in
the reducing composition of the disclosure are polyorganosiloxanes
which are not soluble in said composition and may come as oils,
waxes, resins or gums.
[0091] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail by Walter
NOLL in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academie
Press.
[0092] The at least one silicone may be volatile or not.
[0093] In at least one embodiment, when they are volatile, the at
least one silicone is chosen from those having a boiling point
ranging from 60.degree. C. to 260.degree. C., and from:
[0094] cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, for
example 4 or 5.
[0095] Suitable non-limiting examples thereof include
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the trade
names "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045
V 2" by RHONE POULENC, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under
the trade name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE or
"SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHONE POULENC, and mixtures thereof.
[0096] Cyclocopolymers of the dimethyl siloxane and methylalkyl
siloxane type may also be used, such as "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109"
marketed by UNION CARBIDE, having following chemical structure
(X):
##STR00006##
[0097] wherein "avec" means "with."
[0098] Mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived
from silicon may also be used, such as the octamethyl
cyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl pentaerythritol mixture
(50:50) and the octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and
oxy-1,1'(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane
mixture;
[0099] (ii) linear volatile silicones comprising from 2 to 9
silicon atoms and wherein the viscosity is lower than or equal to
510.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s at 25.degree. C., for example decamethyl
tetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the trade name "SH 200"
by TORAY SILICONE. Non-limiting examples of silicones belonging to
this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics
and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32--TODD & BYERS
"Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics."
[0100] In one embodiment, non volatile silicones are used, such as
polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes,
gums and silicone resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with
organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
[0101] In another embodiment, these silicones are chosen from
polyalkyl siloxanes, for example polydimethyl siloxanes with
trimethylsilyl end groups having a viscosity ranging from
510.sup.-6 to 2.5 m.sup.2/s at 25.degree. C., for example from
110.sup.-5 to 1 m.sup.2/s. Silicone viscosity is, for example,
measured at 25.degree. C. according to ASTM 445 standard, Appendix
C.
[0102] These polyalkyl siloxanes encompass, as non limiting
examples, the following commercial products: [0103] SILBIONE fluids
of 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL fluids marketed by RHONE
POULENC, such as for example fluid 70 047 V 500 000; [0104] fluids
of MIRASIL series marketed by RHONE POULENC; [0105] fluids of 200
series from DOW CORNING, for instance, such as DC200 (viscosity
60,000 Cst); [0106] VISCASIL fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some
fluids of SF (SF 96, SF 18) series from GENERAL ELECTRIC.
[0107] Dimethylsilanol end group-containing polydimethyl siloxanes
may also be mentioned as non-limiting examples, (called
dimethiconol in the CTFA dictionary), such as fluids of 48 series
from RHONE POULENC.
[0108] This polyalkyl siloxane class also includes, for example,
products marketed under the trade names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by
GOLDSCHMIDT which are (C.sub.1-C.sub.20) polyalkyl siloxanes.
[0109] In one embodiment, polyalkylaryl siloxanes are chosen from
linear and/or branched, polydimethyl methylphenyl siloxanes, and
polydimethyl diphenyl siloxanes with a viscosity ranging from
110.sup.-5 to 510.sup.-2 m.sup.2/s at 25.degree. C.
[0110] Suitable non-limiting examples of such polyalkylaryl
siloxanes also include products marketed under the following trade
names: [0111] SILBIONE fluids of 70 641 series from RHONE POULENC;
[0112] fluids of RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series from RHONE
POULENC; [0113] DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID from DOW
CORNING; [0114] silicones of PK series from BAYER, such as the PK20
product; [0115] silicones of PN, PH series from BAYER, such as
PN1000 and PH1 000 products; and [0116] some fluids of SF series
from GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF
1265.
[0117] Examples of silicone gums that may be present in the
reducing composition of the disclosure include, but are not limited
to, polydiorganosiloxanes having high number average molecular
weights ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000 used either alone or in
combination in a solvent. In one embodiment, this solvent may be
chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethyl siloxanes fluids
(PDMS), polyphenylmethyl siloxane fluids (PPMS), isoparaffins,
polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane,
tridecanes, and mixtures thereof.
[0118] As non-limiting examples, the following products may be
mentioned: [0119] polydimethyl siloxane, [0120] polydimethyl
siloxane/methylvinyl siloxane gums, [0121] polydimethyl
siloxane/diphenyl siloxane, [0122] polydimethyl
siloxane/phenylmethyl siloxane, and [0123] polydimethyl
siloxane/diphenyl siloxane/methylvinyl siloxane.
[0124] Further non-limiting examples of products that may be used
include the following mixtures:
[0125] mixtures formed from end chain-hydroxylated polydimethyl
siloxane (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA dictionary
nomenclature) and cyclic polydimethyl siloxane (called
cyclomethicone according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature), such
as the Q2 1401 product marketed by DOW CORNING;
[0126] mixtures formed from polydimethyl siloxane gum and cyclic
silicone, such as the SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from GENERAL ELECTRIC
product, which is a non-limiting example of an SF 30 gum
corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular
weight of 500,000 solubilized in fluid SF 1202 Silicone Fluid
corresponding to decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane;
[0127] mixtures of two PDMS with different viscosities, for example
of a PDMS gum and a PDMS fluid, such as the SF 1236 product from
GENERAL ELECTRIC, wherein SF 1236 is a mixture of an SE 30 gum as
defined hereabove with a viscosity of 20 m.sup.2/s and an SF 96
fluid with a viscosity of 510.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s. In one embodiment,
such product comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of SF 96 fluid.
[0128] In one embodiment, organopolysiloxane resins optionally
present in the oxidizing composition of the method of the
disclosure are siloxane-based crosslinked systems comprising
following units: R.sub.2SiO.sub.2/2, R.sub.3SiO.sub.1/2,
RSiO.sub.3/2 and SiO.sub.4/2, wherein R is chosen from hydrocarbon
groups comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms and phenyl groups. In a
further embodiment, R is chosen from lower C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl
radicals, such as a methyl, and phenyl radicals.
[0129] Further non-limiting examples of these resins also include
the product marketed under the trade name "DOW CORNING 593" or
those marketed under the trade names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS
4267" by GENERAL ELECTRIC, which are dimethyl/trimethyl
siloxane-structured silicones.
[0130] In one embodiment, resins of the trimethyl siloxysilicate
type marketed under the trade names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037
by SHIN-ETSU may be used.
[0131] Organomodified silicones optionally present in the reducing
composition of the disclosure are chosen from silicones such as
previously defined, which comprise in their structure at least one
organofunctional group bound via a hydrocarbon radical.
[0132] Examples of organomodified silicones include, but are not
limited to, polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
[0133] polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally
comprising from C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl groups, such as products
called dimethicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade
name DC 1248 or SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 fluids from UNION
CARBIDE and (C.sub.1-2)alkyl methicone copolyol marketed by DOW
CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200;
[0134] amine groups, substituted or not, such as the products
marketed under the trade name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by
GENESEE, the 176-12096G products from GENERAL ELECTRIC, the KF-860,
861 and 864 products from SHINETSU or the products marketed under
the trade names Q2 8220 or DCZ-8566 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 or
DCZ-8299 or QZ7224 by DOW CORNING. In one embodiment, the
substituted amine groups are chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.4 aminoalkyl
groups and amino silicones comprising alkoxy groups, such as BELSIL
ADM LOG 1 silicone marketed by WACKER;
[0135] thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the trade
names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE;
[0136] alkoxyl groups, such as the product marketed under the trade
name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428,
2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;
[0137] hydroxyl groups, such as hydroxyalkyl function-containing
polyorganosiloxanes described in French Patent Application No.
FR-A-85 16334;
[0138] acyloxyalkyl groups, such as for example polyorganosiloxanes
described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732;
[0139] anionic groups of the carboxylic type, for example the
products described in European Patent EP 186 507 from CHISSO
CORPORATION, or of the alkyl carboxylic type, such as those present
in the X-22-3701 E product from SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl
sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate, such as products
marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names "ABIL S201" and "ABIL
S255";
[0140] hydroxyacylamino groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes
described in the European Patent Application No. EP 342 834, for
example the Q2-8413 product from DOW CORNING.
[0141] In one embodiment, the at least one silicone is an amino
silicone.
[0142] As discussed above, the method of the disclosure comprises
an oxidizing composition applying step.
[0143] The at least one oxidizing composition comprises generally
at least one oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide,
carbamide peroxide, alkaline bromates, polythionates, persalts,
such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates.
[0144] In at least one embodiment, the at least one oxidizing agent
is hydrogen peroxide.
[0145] The at least one oxidizing agent is present in an amount
ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of
the oxidizing composition, for example from 0.5 to 5%.
[0146] In one embodiment, when the at least one oxidizing agent
represents hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution, the at least one
oxidizing composition used in the method of the disclosure
comprises at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizing agent.
[0147] Examples of stabilizing agents include, but are not limited
to, alkaline metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, such as
tetrasodium pyrophosphate, alkaline metal or alkaline-earth metal
stannates, phenacetine or acid and oxyquinoline salts, such as
oxyquinoline sulfate. In one embodiment, at least one stannate is
used alone or in combination with at least one pyrophosphate.
[0148] The at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizing agent may be
present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight relative
to the total weight of the at least one oxidizing composition, for
example from 0.01 to 2%.
[0149] The pH value of the at least one oxidizing composition
ranges from 1.5 to 4.5, for example from 2 to 3.5.
[0150] In at least one embodiment, the at least one oxidizing
composition is allowed to react for a period of time ranging from 2
to 30 minutes, for example for from 2 to 15 minutes, or from 2 to 7
minutes.
[0151] In one embodiment, the method of the disclosure comprises
applying a hair-care composition comprising at least one cationic
polymer to the hair.
[0152] All the cationic polymers that have been described hereabove
as regards to the reducing composition may be used in the hair-care
composition.
[0153] In at least one embodiment, the at least one cationic
polymer that is used in the context of the present disclosure is
present in the at least one reducing composition comprising
cyclopolymers, such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
homopolymers marketed under the trade name "MERQUAT.RTM. 100" by
MERCK, diquaternary ammonium polymers of formula (VIII) or of
formula (IX) and MEXOMERE PO.
[0154] In at least one embodiment, the at least one silicone is
WACKER BELSIL ADM LOG 1 silicone.
[0155] Additionally applying a hair-care composition may allow one
to limit or to prevent sensibilizing the hair, which could result
from the hair treatment by the reducing agents and the oxidizing
agents during the process for permanently reshaping the hair
according to the disclosure. The hair-care composition, such as
defined hereabove may also allow one to protect the hair's
artificial color
[0156] The at least one oxidizing composition and the at least one
hair-care composition used in the method of the disclosure may also
comprise at least one cosmetic active agent, such as those
previously mentioned with respect to the at least one reducing
composition.
[0157] In at least one embodiment, the vehicle for the reducing,
oxidizing and hair-care compositions used in the method of the
disclosure is an aqueous medium comprising water, which may
additionally comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable organic
solvent, which may, for example, include alcohols, such as ethyl
alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol;
or polyols or polyol ethers, such as, for example, ethylene glycol
monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers; propylene glycol or
ethers thereof, such as, for example, propylene glycol
monomethylether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol; as well as
diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as for example, diethylene
glycol monoethylether or monobutylether. The at least one organic
solvent may then be present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to
20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for
example from 1 to 10%.
[0158] The pH value of the reducing composition, the oxidizing
composition and/or the hair-care composition used in the method of
the disclosure may be obtained and/or adjusted by adding either at
least one alkaline agent, such as for example ammonia, monoethanol
amine, diethanol amine, triethanol amine, isopropanol amine,
2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol, propanediamine-1,3, alkaline or
ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, organic carbonate, such as
guanidine carbonate, or alkaline hydroxide, where all these
compounds may be considered either alone or in combination; or at
least one acidifying agent, such as for example hydrochloric acid,
acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid and phosphoric
acid.
[0159] The at least one reducing composition, the at least one
oxidizing composition and/or the at least one hair-care composition
used in the method of the disclosure may, independently from each
other, be in the form of a lotion; a gel, thickened or not; a foam;
or a cream.
[0160] As discussed above, the method of the disclosure comprises
applying at least one reducing composition onto the keratin fibers,
for example onto the hair, applying at least one oxidizing
composition.
[0161] According to one embodiment of the disclosure, the
application of the at least one reducing composition and/or the at
least one oxidizing composition do(es) occur under heating or is
(are) immediately followed with heating.
[0162] In one embodiment, the method of the disclosure further
comprises, following the application of the reducing composition,
and/or following the application of the at least one oxidation
composition, with rinsing the keratin fibers with water.
[0163] In one embodiment, the at least one reducing composition may
also be applied as the hair winding up is being performed. The at
least one reducing composition may then be allowed to react for a
time period ranging from 1 to 50 minutes, for example from 1 to 30
minutes.
[0164] It is also possible after having applied the at least one
reducing composition, to submit the hair to a thermal treatment by
heating to a temperature ranging from 30 to 250.degree. C. for part
of or all the reaction time. In practice, this operation may, for
example, be conducted by using a hood hair dryer, a hair dryer, a
round iron or a flat iron, an IR-emitting device and other heating
devices, and in some cases under a plastic film.
[0165] In a further embodiment, a rinsing operation of the keratin
fibers is then optionally effected with water, and then is followed
by a drying operation.
[0166] In at least one embodiment, the drying step is complete, and
it may be done, for example, by using a domestic hair dryer or a
hood hair dryer or a heating hair cap, or be effected by carefully
wringing the hair out.
[0167] In one embodiment, the at least one oxidizing composition
enabling one to reform the keratin disulfide bonds is then applied
on dry hair, generally for a reaction time ranging from 2 to 30
minutes. The hair is then rinsed off thoroughly, for example with
water, then the tensioning devices are removed.
[0168] As discussed above, the method of the disclosure may
comprise applying to the hair a hair-care composition comprising at
least one cationic polymer and/or at least one silicone, such as an
amine silicone. As an example, the hair-care composition may be
applied:
[0169] prior to setting the hair under tension,
[0170] between the hair tensioning and the application of the at
least one reducing composition,
[0171] after the optional rinsing with water following the
application of the at least one reducing composition and before the
application of the at least one oxidizing composition, and/or
[0172] after rinsing with water following the application of the at
least one oxidizing composition.
[0173] In one embodiment, the at least one hair-care composition is
applied before mechanically setting the keratin fibers under
tension. Thus, according to the present disclosure, mechanically
setting the keratin fibers under tension may be carried out after
applying at least one hair-care composition comprising at least one
cationic polymer and/or at least one silicone, such as an amino
silicone.
[0174] In one embodiment, the hair-care composition application is
followed with a rinsing, such as a rinsing with water.
[0175] Also disclosed herein is a kit comprising:
[0176] tensioning devices, as previously described,
[0177] a first compartment comprising at least one cosmetic
composition comprising at least one reducing agent, and
[0178] a second compartment comprising at least one cosmetic
composition, comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
[0179] Other than in the examples, or where otherwise indicated,
all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction
conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are
to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term
"about." Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the
numerical parameters set forth in the specification and attached
claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired
properties sought to be obtained by the present disclosure. At the
very least, and not as an attempt to limit the application of the
doctrine of equivalents to the scope of the claims, each numerical
parameter should be construed in light of the number of significant
digits and ordinary rounding approaches.
[0180] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters
setting forth the broad scope of the disclosure are approximations,
unless otherwise indicated the numerical values set forth in the
specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any
numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors
necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their
respective testing measurements.
[0181] By way of non-limiting illustration, concrete examples of
certain embodiments of the present disclosure are given below.
EXAMPLES
Example 1
[0182] A reducing composition and an oxidizing composition were
prepared and implemented a method for permanently reshaping the
hair according to the disclosure.
[0183] Formulations are as follows:
Composition Example
[0184] In the following composition examples, percentages are
expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0185] Reducing Composition (1):
TABLE-US-00001 Cysteine 4% Ammonium thioglycolate in 1.5% 71%
aqueous solution Monoethanolamine 2.8% Ammonium bicarbonate 2.7%
Sodium cocoamphopropionate 1.4% Mexomer PO (60% active material)
1.6% Demineralized water qs 100% pH value 8.8
[0186] Oxidizing Composition (2)
TABLE-US-00002 Hydrogen peroxide 4.8% Stabilizers 0.03% Citric acid
0.1% Merquat 100 (Polyquatermium 6) 1.25% Lauramine oxide 2.15%
Demineralized water qs 100% pH value 3
[0187] Comparative assays conducted on heads with any type of hair,
i.e. Asian, Indian and Caucasian, natural or sensitized hair, were
performed by applying the hereabove described compositions, in the
context of a hair reshaping method in accordance with the
disclosure, as also as described in example 2. With the method of
the disclosure, better results were obtained as regards the curl
quality as compared to a traditional procedure. Three-dimensional
curls were obtained, as well as a very natural hair feel.
[0188] Moreover, a protecting effect on artificially colored hair
was observed both during the implementation of this method, and
after, upon repeated washing with shampoos. In other words, the
method for permanently reshaping the keratin fibers of the
disclosure did not deteriorate the artificial hair color.
Example 2
Method for Permanently Reshaping the Hair
[0189] The hair of a model was shampooed, then rinsed off.
[0190] The whole hair was wound around tulip-type curlers.
[0191] The reducing composition 1 was applied, a plastic film was
wrapped around head. The reaction was allowed to proceed under a
heating hood hair dryer for 15 minutes.
[0192] The plastic film was removed, then the hair was rinsed while
the tulip-type curlers still remained in place.
[0193] The hair was then placed under heating hood hair dryer until
it was completely dry.
[0194] Oxidizing composition 2 was then applied and was left to
stand for 5 minutes.
[0195] Tulip-type curlers were then removed and the hair rinsed
off.
* * * * *