U.S. patent application number 11/665349 was filed with the patent office on 2007-11-22 for crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric manifesting roughness upon wetting with water, process for producing the same and textile products made therefrom.
This patent application is currently assigned to Teijin Fibers Limited. Invention is credited to Shigeru Morioka, Takeshi Yamaguchi, Satoshi Yasui, Masato Yoshimoto.
Application Number | 20070270067 11/665349 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 36148485 |
Filed Date | 2007-11-22 |
United States Patent
Application |
20070270067 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Yasui; Satoshi ; et
al. |
November 22, 2007 |
Crimped Filament-Containing Woven or Knitted Fabric Manifesting
Roughness Upon Wetting with Water, Process for Producing the Same
and Textile Products Made Therefrom
Abstract
A woven or knitted fabric, having a roughness which is
manifested when wetted with water and disappears when dried,
comprises crimped filaments A whose percentage of crimp decrease
when wetted with water, and filaments B composed of non-crimped
filaments and/or crimped filaments which undergo substantially no
change in percentage of crimp when wetted with water, wherein the
change of the roughness is 5% or more, determined in accordance
with the following equation: Change in Roughness
(%)=((TW-TD)/TD).times.100 in which TD: a thickness upon drying and
TW: a thickness upon wetting with water, of the woven or knitted
fabric.
Inventors: |
Yasui; Satoshi; (Osaka,
JP) ; Yamaguchi; Takeshi; (Osaka, JP) ;
Yoshimoto; Masato; (Ehime, JP) ; Morioka;
Shigeru; (Ehime, JP) |
Correspondence
Address: |
SUGHRUE MION, PLLC
2100 PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE, N.W.
SUITE 800
WASHINGTON
DC
20037
US
|
Assignee: |
Teijin Fibers Limited
6-7, Minamihommachi 1-Chome, Chuo-ku
Osaka-shi
JP
541-0054
|
Family ID: |
36148485 |
Appl. No.: |
11/665349 |
Filed: |
October 13, 2005 |
PCT Filed: |
October 13, 2005 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/JP05/19245 |
371 Date: |
April 13, 2007 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
442/189 ;
19/66.1; 442/308 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D10B 2401/02 20130101;
D10B 2403/0331 20130101; Y10T 442/425 20150401; D04B 21/16
20130101; A41D 31/125 20190201; D10B 2403/023 20130101; D10B
2403/02 20130101; D03D 15/567 20210101; A41D 31/145 20190201; D01D
5/22 20130101; D10B 2403/0114 20130101; D04B 1/16 20130101; Y10T
442/3065 20150401; D06C 7/02 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
442/189 ;
019/066.1; 442/308 |
International
Class: |
D03D 15/00 20060101
D03D015/00; D02G 1/00 20060101 D02G001/00; D04B 1/00 20060101
D04B001/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Oct 15, 2004 |
JP |
2004-301219 |
Claims
1. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water, and comprises yarns
comprising crimped filaments A the percentage of crimp of which
decreases upon wetting with water, and yarns comprising filaments B
comprising at least one type of filaments selected from non-crimped
filaments and crimped filaments which undergo substantially no
change in percentage of crimp upon wetting with water,
characterized in that the change in roughness calculated by the
equation: change in Roughness (%)=((TW-TD)/TD).times.100 wherein TD
represents a thickness of the woven or knitted fabric measured
after standing it in an environment having a temperature of
20.degree. C. and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours and TW
represents a largest thickness of the water-wetted portion of the
woven or knitted fabric measured one minute after 1 ml of water has
been dropped onto the woven or knitted fabric, is 5% or
greater.
2. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water according to claim 1,
wherein the crimped filaments A are selected from crimped conjugate
filaments comprising a polyester resin component and a polyamide
resin component which components are different from one another in
terms of water-absorption and self-elongation properties, and
bonded to one another in a side-by-side structure, the conjugate
filaments having crimps formed by revealing the latent crimpability
of the conjugate filaments.
3. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water according to claim 2,
wherein the polyester resin component comprises a modified
polyethylene terephthalate resin comprising
5-sodiumsolfoisophthalic acid copolymerized in an amount of 2.0-4.5
molar percent based on the content of the acid component of the
resin.
4. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water according to claim 1,
wherein the yarn comprising the crimped filaments A is twisted at
the number of twist of 0-300 T/m.
5. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water according to claim 1,
wherein the filaments B comprise a polyester resin.
6. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water according to claim 1,
comprising at least one portion Y composed entirely of the crimped
filaments A at least one portion Z composed entirely of the
filaments B, wherein the Z portion being formed continuously in
either or both the warp and weft directions or in either or both
the course and wale directions of the woven or knitted fabric.
7. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water according to claim 1,
comprising at least one portion Z composed entirely of the
filaments B and at least one portion X composed of the filaments A
and the filaments B, the Z portion being formed continuously in
either or both the warp and weft directions or in either or both
the course and wale directions of the woven or knitted fabric.
8. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water according to claim 1,
comprising at least one portion X composed of the crimped filaments
A and the filaments B and at least one portion Y composed entirely
of the crimped filaments A, wherein the X portion is formed
continuously in either or both the warp and weft directions or in
either or both the course and wale directions of the woven or
knitted fabric.
9. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water according to claim 1,
comprising at least one portion X composed of the crimped filaments
A and the filaments B, at least one portion Y composed entirely of
the crimped filaments A and at least one portion Z composed
entirely of the filament B, wherein the Z portion is formed
continuously in either or both the warp and weft directions or in
either or both the course and wale directions of the woven or
knitted fabric.
10. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water according to claim 1,
having a multi-ply weave or knit structure with two or more plies,
wherein at least one ply of the multi-ply structure is composed of
the crimped filaments A and the filaments B, while at least one
other ply is composed entirely of the filaments B, and the ply
containing the filaments A and B and the other ply containing the
filaments B are partially bound with each other.
11. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water according to claim 1,
having a multi-ply weave or knit structure with two or more plies,
wherein at least one ply of the multi-ply structure is composed of
the crimped filaments A and filaments B, while at least one other
ply is composed entirely of the crimped filaments A and B and the
other ply containing the crimped filaments A are partially bound
with each other.
12. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness upon wetting with water according to claim 1,
having a multi-ply weave or knit structure with two or more plies,
wherein at least one ply of the multi-ply structure is composed
entirely of the crimped filaments A, while at least one other ply
is composed entirely of the crimped filaments B, and the crimped
filaments A-containing ply and the filaments B-containing ply are
partially bound with each other.
13. A process for production of a crimped filament-containing woven
or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon wetting with
water, according to claim 1, characterized by comprising a step of
producing a precursor woven or knitted fabric from precursor
filaments from which crimped filaments A which reveals crimps when
a heat treatment is applied thereto, and the resultant crimps
having a property such that the percentage of crimp decreases when
wetted with water, and precursory filaments from which at least one
type of filaments B selected from filaments which do not reveal
crimps even when a heat treatment is applied thereto, and filaments
which reveal crimps when a heat treatment is applied thereto but
the percentage of crimp of the crimps essentially not decreasing
when wetted with water, and a step of applying a heat treatment to
the precursory woven or knitted fabric to produce a woven or
knitted fabric comprising the crimped filaments A and the filaments
B.
14. A process for the production of a crimped filament-containing
woven or knitted fabric according to claim 13, wherein the
precursory filaments from which the crimped filaments A are formed
from non-crimped conjugate filaments comprising a polyester resin
component and a polyamide resin component which components differ
in water-absorption and self-elongation from each other and are
bonded in a side-by-side structure.
15. A process for production of a crimped filament-containing woven
or knitted fabric according to claim 14, wherein the polyester
resin component in the non-crimped conjugate filaments comprises a
polyester resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30-0.43, and the
polyamide resin component comprise a polyamide resin having an
intrinsic viscosity of 1.0-1.4.
16. A process for production of a crimped filament-containing woven
or knitted fabric according to claim 13, wherein the non-crimped
conjugate filaments satisfy, after a crimping treatment in boiling
water was applied thereto, the requirements: (1) a dry percentage
of crimp DC after standing in an environment having a temperature
of 20.degree. C. and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, is in the
range of 1.5 to 13%; (2) a percentage of crimp HC immediately after
an immersion in water at a temperature of 20.degree. C. for 2
hours, is in the range of 0.5 to 7.0%; and (3) a difference between
the dry percentage of crimp DC and wet percentage of crimp HC
(DC-HC) is 0.5% or greater.
17. A textile product which includes the crimped
filament-containing woven or knitted fabric according to claim
1.
18. A textile product according to claims 17, selected from
outerwear, sportswear and underwear clothes.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a crimped
filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests
roughness upon wetting with water, to a process for producing the
same, and to textile products prepared therefrom. More
particularly, the present invention relates to a woven or knitted
fabric which comprises crimped filaments the percentage of crimp of
which decreases upon wetting with water and filaments other than
the crimped filaments, and has a performance such that the surface
of the woven or knitted fabric manifests a roughness upon wetting
with water and the roughness decreases or disappears upon drying,
whereby clothes produced from the woven or knitted fabric do not
cling or hardly cling to the skin even when wetted by perspiration,
as well as to a process for producing the same and to textile
products prepared therefrom.
BACKGROUND ART
[0002] When sportswear or underwear produced from woven or knitted
fabrics comprising conventional fibers or natural fibers is worn,
there is a known problem such that when the wearer sweats, the
conventional fabrics are unpleasantly close and sticky on the skin
due to the sweat.
[0003] Against vaporized sweat generated in the initial stage of
perspiration, it has become common to employ clothes produced from
fibers with high hygroscopicity as the constituent materials of
clothes, or clothes formed from woven or knitted fabrics having a
loose structure and a low density in order to increase the air
permeability.
[0004] On the other hand, for liquid sweat generated during the
middle and later stages of perspiration, there have been proposed
multi-ply structured woven or knitted fabrics having a difference
in density between the outside ply and inside ply (skin side) of
the woven or knitted fabrics to allow sweat absorbed in the skin
side ply to rapidly migrate to the outside ply (for example, see
Patent Reference 1), and to use clothes formed from woven or
knitted fabrics having a roughness formed on the skin side surface
of woven or knitted fabrics to decrease the contact area between
the skin and clothes and to decrease the degree of stickiness (for
example, see Patent documents 2 and 3). However, in the former
case, perspiration exceeding the saturated moisture absorption of
the clothes results in residue of sweat on the skin side, causing
the clothes to stick to the skin. In the latter case, where the
surface roughness of the clothes is insufficient, perspiration in a
large amount causes the clothes to stick to skin, and when the
extent of roughness is increased in order to avoid the sticking,
the air content of the woven or knitted fabric increases resulting
in higher heat retention and thereby aiding perspiration, while the
convexities of the roughness also rub against the skin producing an
uncomfortable prickling feel, and are also abraded on the skin
tending to create pilings.
[0005] It has therefore been desired to develop woven and knitted
fabrics which can reduce such stickiness by reversibly manifesting
roughness on the woven or knitted fabric surface when wetted with
water.
[0006] Patent document 1: Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication
No. 9-316757
[0007] Patent document 2: Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication
No. 10-131000
[0008] Patent document 3: Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication
No. 9-324313
DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0009] An object of the present invention is to provide a woven or
knitted fabric which manifests roughness on the surface when wetted
with water in such a manner that the roughness is reduced or
disappears upon drying, as well as a process for producing it and
textile products obtained therefrom which do not become
uncomfortable upon wetting by sweat produced by perspiration.
[0010] This object is achieved by the crimped filament-containing
woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the process for
producing it and textile products therefrom.
[0011] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of
the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting with
water, and comprises yarns comprising crimped filaments A the
percentage of crimp of which decreases upon wetting with water, and
yarns comprising filaments B comprising at least one type of
filaments selected from non-crimped filaments and crimped filaments
which undergo substantially no change in percentage of crimp upon
wetting with water,
[0012] is characterized in that the change in roughness calculated
by the equation: Change in Roughness (%)=((TW-TD)/TD).times.100
wherein TD represents a thickness of the woven or knitted fabric
measured after standing it in an environment having a temperature
of 20.degree. C. and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours and TW
represents a largest thickness of the water-wetted portion of the
woven or knitted fabric measured one minute after 1 ml of water has
been dropped onto the woven or knitted fabric, is 5% or
greater.
[0013] In the crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
of the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting
with water, the crimped filaments A are preferably selected from
crimped conjugate filaments comprising a polyester resin component
and a polyamide resin component which components are different from
one another in terms of water-absorption and self-elongation
properties, and bonded to one another in a side-by-side structure,
the conjugate filaments having crimps formed by revealing the
latent crimpability of the conjugate filaments.
[0014] In the crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
of the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting
with water, the polyester resin component preferably comprises a
modified polyethylene terephthalate resin comprising
5-sodiumsolfoisophthalic acid copolymerized in an amount of 2.0-4.5
molar percent based on the content of the acid component of the
resin.
[0015] In the crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
of the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting
with water, the yarn comprising the crimped filaments A is
preferably twisted at the number of twist of 0-300 T/m.
[0016] In the crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
of the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting
with water, the filaments B preferably comprises a polyester
resin.
[0017] In the crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
of the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting
with water, the fabric preferably at least one portion Y composed
entirely of the crimped filaments A and at least one portion Z
composed entirely of the filaments B, the Z portion being formed
continuously in either or both the warp and weft directions or in
either or both the course and wale directions of the woven or
knitted fabric.
[0018] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of
the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting with
water may comprise at least one portion Z composed entirely of the
filaments B and at least one portion X composed of the filaments A
and the filaments B, the Z portion being formed continuously in
either or both the warp and weft directions or in either or both
the course and wale directions of the woven or knitted fabric.
[0019] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of
the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting with
water may comprise at least one portion X composed of the crimped
filaments A and the filaments B and at least one portion Y composed
entirely of the crimped filaments A, the X portion being formed
continuously in either or both the warp and weft directions or in
either or both the course and wale directions of the woven or
knitted fabric.
[0020] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of
the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting with
water, may comprise at least one portion X composed of the crimped
filaments A and the filaments B, at least one portion Y composed
entirely of the crimped filaments A and at least one portion Z
composed entirely of the filament B, the Z portion being formed
continuously in either or both the warp and weft directions or in
either or both the course and wale directions of the woven or
knitted fabric.
[0021] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of
the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting with
water may have a multi-ply weave or knit structure with two or more
plies, at least one ply of the multi-ply structure being composed
of the crimped filaments A and the filaments B, while at least one
other ply being composed entirely of the filaments B, and the ply
containing the filaments A and B and the other ply containing the
filaments B being partially bound with each other.
[0022] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of
the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting with
water may have a multi-ply weave or knit structure with two or more
plies, at least one ply of the multi-ply structure being composed
of the crimped filaments A and filaments B, while at least one
other ply being composed entirely of the crimped filaments A and B
and the other ply containing the crimped filaments A being
partially bound with each other.
[0023] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of
the present invention which manifests roughness upon wetting with
water may have a multi-ply weave or knit structure with two or more
plies, at least one ply of the multi-ply structure being composed
entirely of the crimped filaments A, while at least one other ply
being composed entirely of the crimped filaments B, and the crimped
filaments A-containing ply and the filaments B-containing ply being
partially bound with each other.
[0024] The process of the present invention for production of a
crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric according to
any one of claims 1 to 12 which manifests roughness upon wetting
with water, is characterized by comprising a step of producing a
precursor woven or knitted fabric from precursor filaments from
which crimped filaments A which reveals crimps when a heat
treatment is applied thereto, and the resultant crimps having a
property such that the percentage of crimp decreases when wetted
with water, and precursory filaments from which at least one type
of filaments B selected from filaments which do not reveal crimps
even when a heat treatment is applied thereto, and filaments which
reveal crimps when a heat treatment is applied thereto but the
percentage of crimp of the crimps essentially not decreasing when
wetted with water, and a step of applying a heat treatment to the
precursory woven or knitted fabric to produce a woven or knitted
fabric comprising the crimped filaments A and the filaments B.
[0025] In the process of the present invention for production of a
crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric, the precursory
filaments from which the crimped filaments A are preferably formed
from non-crimped conjugate filaments comprising a polyester resin
component and a polyamide resin component which components differ
in water-absorption and self-elongation from each other and are
bonded in a side-by-side structure.
[0026] The process of the present invention for production of a
crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric the polyester
resin component in the non-crimped conjugate filaments preferably
comprises a polyester resin having an intrinsic viscosity of
0.30-0.43, and the polyamide resin component preferably comprise a
polyamide resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0-1.4.
[0027] The process of the present invention for production of a
crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric, the
non-crimped conjugate filaments preferably satisfy, after crimping
treatment in boiling water was applied thereto, the following
requirements:
[0028] (1) a dry percentage of crimp DC after standing in an
environment having a temperature of 20.degree. C. and a humidity of
65% RH for 24 hours, is in the range of 1.5 to 13%;
[0029] (2) a percentage of crimp HC immediately after an immersion
in water at a temperature of 20.degree. C. for 2 hours, is in the
range of 0.5 to 7.0%; and
[0030] (3) a difference between the dry percentage of crimp DC and
wet percentage of crimp HC (DC-HC) is 0.5% or greater.
[0031] The textile product of the present invention includes the
crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present
invention.
[0032] The textile product of the present invention is preferably
selected from outerwear, sportswear and underwear clothes.
[0033] According to the present invention, it is possible to
provide crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabrics that
manifest roughness on the surface upon wetting with water wherein
the roughness is reduced or disappears upon drying, from crimped
filaments A whose percentage of crimp decreases upon wetting with
water and filaments B which undergo substantially no change in
percentage of crimp upon wetting with water, as well as a process
for producing them and textile products obtained therefrom.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0034] FIG. 1 is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional
profile of an embodiment of the crimped conjugate filament used in
a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
[0035] FIG. 2 is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional
profile of another embodiment of a crimped conjugate filament used
in a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
[0036] FIG. 3 is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional
profile of still another embodiment of a crimped conjugate filament
used in a woven or knitted fabric of the invention.
[0037] FIG. 4(A) is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional
profile of an embodiment of a woven or knitted fabric of the
present invention under dry condition, and FIG. 4(B) is an
explanatory view showing the cross-sectional profile of the woven
or knitted fabric under water-wetted condition.
[0038] FIG. 5 is a plane view showing the structure of another
embodiment of a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
under dry condition.
[0039] FIG. 6(A) is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional
profile of still another embodiment of a woven or knitted fabric of
the present invention under dry condition, and FIG. 6(B) is an
explanatory view showing the cross-sectional profile of the woven
or knitted fabric under water-wetted condition.
[0040] FIG. 7 is a plane view showing the structure of still
another embodiment of a woven or knitted fabric of the present
invention under dry condition.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0041] A woven or knitted fabric of the invention comprises crimped
filaments A whose percentage of crimp decreases upon wetting with
water, and filaments B composed of at least one type of filaments
selected from non-crimped filaments and crimped filaments which
undergo substantially no change in percentage of crimp upon wetting
with water. When a crimped filament-containing woven or knitted
fabric of the present invention is wetted with water (for example,
when wetted by perspiration or falling rain), only the crimped
filaments A exhibit a reduced percentage of crimp whereby the
apparent lengths of the crimped filaments A increase to form
roughness on the surface of the water-wetted woven or knitted
fabric, while drying produces an increase or restoration of the
percentage of crimp of the crimped filaments A whereby the apparent
lengths of the filaments are reduced or restored, and the roughness
is reduced or disappears. In other words, the woven or knitted
fabric of the present invention is able to reversibly undergo
manifestation of roughness upon wetting with water and reduction or
disappearance of the roughness upon drying.
[0042] The change in roughness calculated in accordance with the
following equation from the thickness (TD) when dried and the
thickness (TW) when wetted, of the woven or knitted fabric of the
present invention is 5% or greater and preferably 10-100%. Change
in Roughness (%)=((TW-TD)/TD).times.100
[0043] If the roughness change is less than 5%, manifestation of
roughness in the woven or knitted fabric when wetted will be
insufficient, making it impossible to sufficiently reduce the skin
discomfort occurred when the fabric is worn.
[0044] The thickness TD when dried is the thickness after the woven
or knitted fabric has stood for 24 hours in an environment at a
temperature of 20.degree. C. at a humidity of 65% RH, and the
thickness TW when wetted is the highest thickness of a portion of
the woven or knitted fabric at which portion one ml of water has
been dropped by using a dropper, one minute after the water
dropping; these thicknesses TD and TW may be measured using, for
example, a ultrahigh-precision laser displacement meter (Model
LC-2400, product of Keyence).
[0045] It is important that in the crimped filament (A), the
difference (DC-HC) between the percentage of crimp (DC) when dried
and the percentage of crimp (HC) when wetted with water of the
crimped filaments A is 0.5% or more, and such crimped filaments (A)
are preferably conjugate filaments which are composed of two types
of resin components, different from one another in terms of
heat-shrinkage properties, for example, polyester resin component
and a polyamide resin component, incorporated in a side-by-side
structure, and have a crimped structure formed by expression of
their latent crimping performance.
[0046] Examples of preferred polyester resin components for the
side-by-side type conjugate filaments include modified polyesters,
for example, modified polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene
terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate polymers which are
copolymerized with compounds which have a group consisting an
alkali or alkaline earth metal salt or phosphonium salt of sulfonic
acid, and one or more functional groups with ester-forming
property, for higher adhesion with the polyamide component.
Particularly, modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymers
containing the copolymerized aforementioned compounds, are
preferred from the standpoint of common wide utility and low
polymer price. Examples of copolymerization components in this case
include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and its ester derivatives,
5-phosphonium isophthalic acid and its ester derivatives, sodium
p-hydroxybenzenesulfonate, etc. Among them,
5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid is preferably employed. The
copolymerization amount of the copolymerizing component is
preferably in the range of 2.0-4.5 molar % with respect to the
molar amount of the dicarboxylic acid component in the polyester
resin component. If the copolymerization amount is less than 2.0
molar %, a separation may occur at the bonding interface between
the polyamide component and polyester component, whereas the
resultant conjugate filaments exhibit excellent crimping property.
Conversely, if the copolymerization amount is more than 4.5 molar
percent, crystallization of the polyester component will be
inhibited during drawing and heat treatment, thus a higher draw and
heat treatment temperature than usual becomes necessary, and this
potentially leads to numerous breaks in the filaments.
[0047] There is no particular limitation to the polyamide resin
component for the side-by-side type conjugate filaments, as long as
it has an amide bond in the beckborn chain, and the polyamide resin
includes, for example, nylon-4, nylon-6, nylon-66, nylon-46 and
nylon-12. Among them, nylon-6 and nylon-66 are particularly
preferred from the viewpoint of common wide utility, low polymer
price and high stability in filament production.
[0048] The polyester resin component and polyamide resin component
may also contain publicly known additives, for example, pigments,
delustering agents, stain-proofing agents, fluorescent brighteners,
flame retardants, stabilizers, antistatic agents, light resisting
agents, ultraviolet ray absorbers, etc.
[0049] The conjugate filament comprising two resin components
different in heat shrinkage properties from each other (for
example, polyester resin component and polyamide resin component)
bonded in a side-by-side structure may have any cross-sectional
profile and combining form. FIGS. 1 to 3 show cross-sectional
profiles of side-by-side type conjugate filaments to be used for
the present invention. The conjugate filament 1 shown in FIG. 1 has
a circular cross-sectional profile wherein the polyester resin
component 2 and the polyamide resin component 3 are bonded in a
side-by-side relationship. The conjugate filament shown in FIG. 2
has an oval cross-sectional profile wherein the polyester resin
component 2 and the polyamide resin component 3 are bonded in a
side-by-side relationship. The conjugate filament 1 shown in FIG. 3
also has a circular cross-sectional profile, but with the polyamide
resin component 3 is located inside the polyester resin component 2
in a nearly core-in-sheath configuration. A portion of the
polyamide resin component 3, however, is exposed on the outer
periphery of the filament.
[0050] The cross-sectional profile of the side-by-side type
conjugate filament may be, instead of circular or oval, polygonal
such as triangular or rectangular, flat or star-shaped or even
hollow. Among them, a circular cross-sectional profile shown in
FIG. 1 is preferred.
[0051] The mass ratio of the polyester resin component to polyamide
resin component in the side-by-side type conjugate filament used
for the invention is preferably in the range of 30:70 to 70:30 and
more preferably 40:60 to 60:40.
[0052] The individual filament thickness of the crimped filaments A
used for the invention is preferably 1 to 10 dtex and more
preferably 2 to 5 dtex. When the crimped filaments A are used in a
yarn or a filament bundle, the number of individual filaments is
preferably 10 to 200 and more preferably 20-100 per yarn or
bundle.
[0053] The conjugate filaments having two resin components
different in heat shrinkage properties from each other and bonded
in a side-by-side structure may have any desired cross-sectional
profile or combining form. FIGS. 1 to 3 show magnified
cross-sectional views of side-by-side type conjugate filaments
usable for the present invention. The conjugate filaments having
the cross-sectional profiles shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 are used in
most cases, but a nearly eccentric core-in-sheath type such as
shown in FIG. 3 may also be used. Alternatively, the profile may be
triangular or rectangular, or a hollow may be formed within the
cross-section. The circular cross-sectional profile shown in FIG. 1
is preferred among these profiles, but the oval cross-sectional
profile as shown in FIG. 2 is also usable. The mass ratio of both
components may be selected as desired, usually the mass ratio
between the polyester resin component and polyamide resin component
is 30:70 to 70:30 and more preferably 40:60 to 60:40.
[0054] There are no particular restrictions to the individual
filament thickness and number of individual filaments (individual
filament number) of the crimped filaments A. Preferably, the
individual filament thickness is 1 to 10 dtex (more preferably 2 to
5 dtex) and the number of individual filaments is in the range of
10 to 200 (more preferably 20 to 100), per yarn.
[0055] The conjugate filaments composed of different resin
components bonded to each other as described above usually have a
latent crimping property, and therefore express latent crimping
performance when subjected to heat treatment, for example, a
high-temperature dyeing treatment which will be explained
hereinafter. The crimp structure preferably has the polyamide resin
component located in inner side of the crimped filament and the
polyester resin component located in outer side of the crimped
filament. The conjugate filament having the above-mentioned crimp
structure can be easily produced by the production process as
described below. If the crimped filaments A have the
above-mentioned crimp structure, wetting with water causes the
polyamide component located in the inner side to swell and elongate
but causes virtually no change in length of the polyester component
located in the outer side, and thus, the percentage of crimp of the
conjugate filament decreases. As a result, the apparent lengths of
the crimped filaments A increases. When dried, however, the
polyamide component located in the inner side shrinks, while the
polyester component on the outer side undergoes essentially no
change in length and, thus, the percentage of crimp of the
conjugate filament increases. Thus, the apparent length of the
crimped filaments A is therefore shortened.
[0056] The crimped filaments A are preferably in the form of
untwisted yarn or false twisted yarn with no more than 300 T/m
twists, in order to facilitate decrease in the percentage of crimp
upon wetting with water. Untwisted filament yarn are especially
preferred. In case of a hard-twisted filament yarn having a hard
twist, the percentage of crimp is sometimes hard to decrease upon
wetting with water. Also, the crimped filament yarn may be one
subjected to an air interlacing treatment and/or usual false
twisting treatment at an interlace number of the individual
filaments in the yarn of about 20 to 60 interlaces/m.
[0057] There are no particular restrictions to the type of
filaments B which are non-crimped filaments or which have crimps
that undergo essentially no change in percentage of crimp upon
wetting with water. Here, the phrase "undergo essentially no change
in percentage of crimp upon wetting with water" means that a
difference (DC-HC) between the percentage of crimp DC(%) in dry and
the percentage of crimp HC(%) in wet with water (DC-HC) is less
than 0.5(%). The difference in percentage of crimp (DC-HC) is more
preferably 0 to 0.4% and still more preferably 0 to 0.3%.
[0058] The filaments B may be selected from synthetic polymer
filaments, for example, filaments of polyesters, for example,
polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate and
polybutylene terephthalate, polyamides, for example, nylon-6 and
nylon-66, polyolefins, for example, polyethylene and polypropylene,
acrylic compounds, para- or meta-aramids and modified synthetic
resins thereof, natural filaments regenerated filaments
semi-synthetic filaments, polyurethane-based elastic filaments and
polyether ester-based elastic filament, as long as they are
appropriate for clothes. Among them, polyester filaments, for
example, filaments of polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene
terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, as well as polyester
filaments composed of modified polyesters produced by
copolymerization with copolymerizing components, as mentioned
above, because the above-mentioned filaments exhibit a high
dimensional stability even when wetted with water and satisfactory
in filament-combining properties, mixed knitting or mixed weaving
properties and dyeing properties compatibility with the crimped
filaments A. There are also no special restrictions on the
thickness of individual filaments for the filaments B or on the
number of individual filaments per yarn or bundle when they are
used in a yarn or a filament bundle. In order to increase the
hygroscopicity of the resultant woven or knitted fabric and to
accelerate the manifestation of roughness upon wetting with water,
the thickness of the individual filament for the filaments B is
preferably 0.1 to 5 dtex and more preferably 0.5 to 2 dtex, and the
number of individual filaments for a filament B yarn or filament B
bundle is preferably in the range of 20 to 200 filaments and more
preferably 30-100 filaments per yarn or bundle. The filament
B-containing yarn or filament bundle can be subjected to an air
interlacing treatment and/or conventional false twisting treatment,
which may cause interlacing of the constituent individual filaments
at about 20-60 interlaces/m.
[0059] A woven or knitted fabric of the invention comprises the
aforementioned crimped filaments A whose percentage of crimp
decreases upon wetting with water, and filaments B comprising
non-crimped filaments and/or crimped filaments which undergo
essentially no change in percentage of crimp upon wetting with
water.
[0060] There are no particular restrictions on the weave or knit
structures or number of plies as of the woven or knitted fabric.
Suitable weave or knit structures include weave structures a plane
weave, twill weave or satin weave, and a knit structures such as a
plain knit smooth knit, circular rib knit, seed knit, plating
stitch, Denbigh stitch, half knit, etc, but there is no limitation
to these. The fabric may be a single-ply fabric or a multi-ply
fabric having two or more plies.
[0061] The reason of manifesting the roughness in the woven or
knitted fabric when wetted with water is that the woven or knitted
fabric is composed of portions which undergoes a dimensional change
(expansion) when wetted with water and portions which undergoes
little or no dimensional change even when wetted with water
whereby, when wetted with water, the former portions changes in
dimensions, and the latter portions exhibit little or no change in
dimensions. Therefore, when wetted with water, the former portions
form convexities and thereby manifest a roughness in the fabric.
Consequently, for effective manifestation of roughness upon wetting
with water, it is important to appropriately arrange the crimped
filaments A and the filaments B.
[0062] A preferred mode for arrangement of the crimped filaments A
and filaments B in a woven or knitted fabric of the present
invention will be explained below.
[0063] First, according to mode (1), the woven or knitted fabric
comprises one or more portions (Y portions) composed entirely of
the crimped filaments A and one or more portions (Z portions)
composed entirely of the filaments B, wherein the Z portions are
formed continuous in either or both the warp and weft directions or
in either or both the wale and course directions.
[0064] In this structure, as the Y portions have, when wetted with
water, a greater degree of dimensional change than that of the Z
portions, and the Z portions in the woven or knitted fabric are
formed continuous in either or both the warp and weft directions or
in either or both the wale and course directions, so that
dimensional change of the woven or knitted fabric as a whole is
inhibited, and the Y portions form convexities to manifest
roughness.
[0065] In FIG. 6(A), the woven or knitted fabric 7 comprises Y
portions 8 having a large dimensional change upon wetting with
water and Z portion 9 having little or no dimensional change upon
wetting with water, and in the dry state, the Y portions 8 and Z
portions 9 form a flat surface but upon wetting with water, each Y
portions 8 extends outward from one side surface of the woven or
knitted fabric 7 to form convexities, as shown in FIG. 6(B), thus
producing roughness on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric
7.
[0066] The pattern in which the Z portions are continuous in either
or both the warp and weft directions or in either or both the wale
and course directions is not particularly restricted, and examples
include a border pattern, stripe pattern or lattice pattern, a
diamond pattern as shown schematically in FIG. 7, or a checkered
pattern.
[0067] There is no particular restriction on the area ratio of the
Z portions to Y portions, but for increased dimensional stability
of the woven or knitted fabric, the ratio Z portion area:Y portion
area is preferably 10:90 to 90:10 and more preferably 20:80 to
80:20.
[0068] In the woven or knitted fabric 7 as shown in FIG. 7, the Y
portions 8 are separated from each other by Z portions 9. While
there is no particular restriction on the area of each Y portion 8,
it is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 4.0 cm.sup.2 and more
preferably 0.1 to 1.0 cm.sup.2. This is preferred from the
viewpoint of preventing sticking between clothing and skin during
periods of perspiration. The width of the Z portions 9 is
preferably in the range of 0.5-100 mm.
[0069] According to mode (2) of the woven or knitted fabric of the
present invention, the fabric comprises one or more portions (Z
portions) composed entirely of the filaments B and one or more
portions (X portions) composed of the filaments A and the filaments
B, wherein the Z portions are formed continuous in either or both
the warp and weft directions or in either or both the wale and
course directions.
[0070] In this structure, as the X portions have a greater degree
of dimensional change when wetted with water than that of the Z
portions, and the Z portions of the woven or knitted fabric are
formed continuously in either or both the warp and weft directions
or in either or both the wale and course directions, the
dimensional change of the woven or knitted fabric as a whole is
inhibited, and the X portions form convexities to manifest
roughness. The pattern in which the Z portions are formed
continuously and the area ratio of both portions may be similar to
that of mode (1).
[0071] According to mode (3) of the woven or knitted fabric of the
present invention, the fabric comprises one or more portions (X
portions) composed of the filaments A and the filaments B and one
or more portions (Y portions) composed entirely of the crimped
filaments A, wherein the X portions of the woven or knitted fabric
are formed continuous in either or both the warp and weft
directions or in either or both the wale and course directions.
[0072] In this structure, as the Y portions have a greater degree
of dimensional change when wetted with water than that of the X
portions, and the X portions of the woven or knitted fabric is
formed continuous in either or both the warp and weft directions or
in either or both the wale and course directions, the dimensional
change of the woven or knitted fabric as a whole is inhibited, and
the Y portions form convexities to manifest roughness. The pattern
in which the X portions are formed continuous and the area ratio of
both portions may be similar to mode (1).
[0073] According to mode (4) of the woven or knitted fabric of the
invention, the fabric comprises one or more portions (X portions)
composed of the filaments A and the filaments B, one or more
portions (Y portions) composed entirely of the crimped filaments A
and one or more portions (Z portions) composed entirely of the
filaments B, wherein the Z portions of the woven or knitted fabric
are formed continuous in either or both the warp and weft
directions or in either or both the wale and course directions.
[0074] In the above-mentioned mode (4) of the structure, as the Z
portions have, when wetted with water, the least degree of
dimensional change compared to the other portions (X portions and Y
portions), and the Z portions of the woven or knitted fabric are
formed continuous in either or both the warp and weft directions,
the dimensional change of the woven or knitted fabric as a whole is
inhibited, and the other portions (X portion and Y portion) form
convexities to manifest roughness. The pattern in which the Z
portions are continuous and the area ratio of Z portions to the
total of the other portions may be similar to mode (1).
[0075] According to mode (5) of the woven or knitted fabric of the
invention, the fabric has a multi-ply woven or knitted structure
having two or more plies wherein at one or more plies (X plies) of
the multi-ply structure is composed of the crimped filaments A and
the filaments B while one or more of the other plies (Z plies) is
composed entirely of the filaments B, and the former plies and
latter plies are partially bound together.
[0076] In this structure, the X plies have a greater degree of
dimensional change when wetted with water than that of the Z plies,
and the portions of the X plies which are not bound with the Z
plies form convexities to manifest roughness.
[0077] In FIG. 4(A), the woven or knitted fabric 4 is a multi-ply
fabric comprising an X ply 6 and a Z ply 5, and a bonding ply 5a
through which the plies 5 and 6 are partially bound together. When
the multi-ply woven or knitted fabric is wetted with water, as
shown in FIG. 4(B), the X ply 6 extends between the bound sections
to form convexities 6a, but the portions 6b where the X ply 6 is
bound through the binding ply 5a cannot extend. As a result,
roughness is formed on one side of the woven or knitted fabric.
[0078] When, as shown in FIG. 5, the lattice section 6b in the X
ply 6 of the woven or knitted fabric is bound with the Z ply (not
shown in FIG. 5) through the binding ply (also not shown), the
section 6a which is not bound extends outward upon wetting with
water, to cause a plurality of rectangular convexities to be
separately distributed from each other, thereby creating roughness
on one side of the multi-ply woven or knitted fabric.
Alternatively, the sections which are not bound may be formed in a
lattice form and the bound sections may form a plurality of regions
spaced from each other.
[0079] According to mode (6) of the woven or knitted fabric of the
present invention, the fabric has a multi-ply woven or knitted
structure with two or more plies wherein one or more plies (X
plies) of the multi-ply structure are composed of the crimped
filaments A and the filaments B while one or more other plies (Y
plies) are composed entirely of the crimped filaments A, and the X
plies and Y plies are partially bound together.
[0080] In this structure, the Y plies have a greater degree of
dimensional change when wetted with water, than that of the X ply,
and the portions of the Y plies which are not bound with the X
plies form convexities to manifest roughness.
[0081] According to mode (7) of the woven or knitted fabric of the
invention, the fabric has a multi-ply woven or knitted structure
with two or more plies wherein one or more plies (Y plies) are
composed entirely of the crimped filaments A while one or more
other plies (Z plies) are composed entirely of the filaments B, and
the Y plies and Z plies are partially bound together.
[0082] In this structure, the Y plies have a greater degree of
dimensional change when wetted with water than that the Z plies,
and the portions of the Y plies which are not bound with the Z
plies form convexities to manifest roughness.
[0083] The woven or knitted fabric of the invention may be easily
produced by the production process described below.
[0084] The process of the present invention for producing a crimped
filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests
roughness upon wetting with water, is characterized by comprising a
step of producing a precursor woven or knitted fabric from
precursor filaments from which crimped filaments A which reveals
crimps when a heat treatment is applied thereto, and the resultant
crimps having a property such that the percentage of crimp
decreases when wetted with water, and precursory filaments from
which at least one type of filaments B selected from filaments
which do not reveal crimps even when a heat treatment is applied
thereto, and filaments which reveal crimps when a heat treatment is
applied thereto but the percentage of crimp of the crimps
essentially not decreasing when wetted with water, and a step of
applying a heat treatment to the precursory woven or knitted fabric
to produce a woven or knitted fabric comprising the crimped
filaments A and the filaments B.
[0085] In the process of the present invention, preferably the
filaments, from which the crimped filaments A are formed, are
selected from non-crimped conjugate filaments comprising a
polyester resin component and a polyamide resin component, which
are different in water-absorption and self-elongation from each
other and are bonded in a side-by-side structure, and preferably
the polyester resin component of the non-crimped filaments includes
a polyester resin with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43, and
the polyamide resin component includes a polyamide resin with an
intrinsic viscosity of 1.0-1.4.
[0086] In an embodiment of the process of the present invention, a
polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of. 0.30 to 0.43 (measured
at 35.degree. C. in ortho-chlorophenol as the solvent) and a
polyamide having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0-1.4 (measured at
30.degree. C. in m-cresol as the solvent) are melt-spun into a
side-by-side type composite filament structure. In this case, a
polyester component having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.43 or less
is particularly preferred. If the polyester component has an
intrinsic viscosity of greater than 0.43, the polyester exhibits an
increased viscosity and thus the properties of the composite
filament will approach those of the polyester alone and it may not
be possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric which achieves the
object of the invention. Conversely, if the polyester component has
an intrinsic viscosity of less than 0.30, the resultant polyester
component melt may exhibit too low a viscosity, and the
filament-forming property of the melt decreases and generation of
fluffs is promoted, and the quality and productivity of the
conjugate filaments are reduced.
[0087] The spinneret used for the melt spinning may be one as shown
in FIG. 1 of Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No.
2000-144518, wherein the extrusion openings for the high viscosity
component and low viscosity component are separated from each
other, and the linear extrusion rate of the high viscosity
component is low (the cross-sectional area of the extrusions
openings is designed small). Preferably, the molten polyester resin
component is passed through the extrusion openings for the high
viscosity component, while the molten polyamide resin component is
passed through the extrusion openings for the low viscosity
component, and the two components are joined together while cooling
them to solidification. For this step, as mentioned above, the mass
ratio of the polyester component to the polyamide component is
preferably 30:70 to 70:30, and more preferably 40:60 to 60:40.
[0088] After the melt composite melt spinning, there may be
employed a separate drawing system wherein drawing is carried out
after winding up the melt-spun filaments, or a direct drawing
system wherein a draw-heat treatment is carried out without winding
up the melt-spun filaments. The spinning and drawing steps may be
performed under conventional conditions. For example, in a direct
drawing system, the spinning step is carried out at a spinning
speed of about 1000 to 3500 m/min, and followed by immediate
drawing step at a temperature of 100 to 150.degree. C. and then
winding up step. The draw ratio is appropriately set so that the
finally obtained conjugate filaments have a elongation at break of
preferably 10 to 60% (more preferably 20 to 45%), and a tensile
strength of preferably about 3.0 to 4.7 cN/dtex.
[0089] For the process of the present invention, the non-crimped
conjugate filaments preferably have, after crimping treatment in
boiling water,
[0090] (1) a dry percentage of crimp DC in the range of 1.5-13%
after standing for 24 hours in an environment at a temperature of
20.degree. C., at a humidity of 65% RH,
[0091] (2) a water-wet percentage of crimp HC in the range of
0.5-7.0% immediately after immersion in water at a temperature of
20.degree. C. for 2 hours, and
[0092] (3) a difference between the dry percentage of crimp DC and
wet percentage of crimp HC (DC-HC) of 0.5% or more.
The dry percentage of crimp DC is more preferably 2 to 6%, the wet
percentage of crimp HC is more preferably 1 to 3%, and the
difference between the dry percentage of crimp DC and wet
percentage of crimp HC (DC-HC) is more preferably 1 to 5%.
[0093] The dry percentage of crimp DC and wet percentage of crimp
HC are measured by the following measurement methods.
[0094] A wind-up frame with a circumference of 1.125 m is used for
rewinding a filament yarn under a load of 49/50
mN.times.9.times.total tex (0.1 gf.times.total denier) at a fixed
speed for 10 winds to produce a small hank, the small hank is
twisted to form into a double ring and immersed in boiling water
while applying an initial load of 49/2500
mN.times.20.times.9.times.total dtex (2 mg.times.20.times.total
denier) for 30 minutes, then dried in a drier at 100.degree. C. for
30 minutes and then placed in dryer at 160.degree. C. for 5 minutes
while maintaining the initial load to heat-treat the hank. The
initial load is removed from the hank after the dry heat treatment
was completed, and then the hank is left to stand in an environment
at a temperature of 20.degree. C. at a humidity of 65% RH for at
least 24 hours, then the initial load and an additional load of
98/50 mN.times.20.times.9.times.total tex (0.2
gf.times.20.times.total denier) are applied to the hank, then the
length L0 of the hank is measured, the additional load alone is
immediately removed, and one minute after removing the load the
length L1 of the hank is measured. The hank is then immersed in
water at a temperature of 20.degree. C. for 2 hours while applying
the initial load thereto, and after taking up from water, the hank
is sandwiched between a pair of filter sheets (30 cm.times.30 cm
size), a pressure of 0.69 mN/cm.sup.2 (70 mgf/cm.sup.2) was applied
to the filter sheets for 5 seconds to lightly wipe off of water,
then the initial load and the additional load are applied to the
hank, the length L0' of the hank is measured, the additional load
alone is immediately removed from the hank, and one minute after
removing the load the length L1' of the hank is measured. These
measured values are inserted into the following equations calculate
the dry percentage of crimp DC(%), wet percentage of crimp HC(%)
and the difference (DC-HC) percentage of crimps between dry and
wet. The average value for 5 measurements was calculated. Dry
percentage of crimp DC(%)=((L0-L1)/L0).times.100 Wet percentage of
crimp HC(%)=((L0'-L1')/L0').times.100
[0095] In the crimped conjugate filaments A used for the present
invention, if the dry percentage of crimp DC is smaller than 1.5%,
the change in percentage of crimp upon wetting with water is small,
and thus a roughness may not be manifested. Conversely, if the dry
percentage of crimp DC is more than 13%, crimping may be too
strong, thereby inhibiting change of the crimps upon wetting with
water, and also potentially preventing manifestation of roughness.
If the difference (DC-HC) between the dry percentage of crimp DC
and wet percentage of crimp HC is less than 0.5%, roughness may not
be manifested even when wetted with water.
[0096] After producing a woven or knitted fabric simultaneously
from the conjugate filaments as mentioned above and the filaments B
which are either non-crimped or have crimps which undergo
substantially no change in percentage of crimp even upon wetting
with water, the fabric may be subjected to a dyeing treatment,
whereby the heat of dyeing expresses latent crimping of the
conjugate filaments (to produce the crimped filaments).
[0097] There are no special restrictions on the weaving or knittin
structure of the woven or knitted fabric, and any of the
aforementioned types may be selected as appropriate.
[0098] The temperature for the dyeing treatment is preferably 100
to 140.degree. C. and more preferably 110 to 135.degree. C., and
the dyeing time is preferably in the range of 5 to 40 minutes as
the highest temperature duration time. Dyeing of the woven or
knitted fabric under these conditions will allow the conjugate
filaments to express crimping due to the difference in heat
shrinkage between the polyester component and the polyamide
component. The polyester component and polyamide component may be
selected from the aforementioned polymers to form the crimped
structure in which the polyamide component is located in the inner
sides of the crimps.
[0099] The woven or knitted fabric which has been dyed is usually
subjected to final dry heat setting. The temperature of the final
dry setting is preferably 120 to 200.degree. C. and more preferably
140 to 180.degree. C., and the final setting time is preferably in
the range of 1 to 3 minutes. If the temperature for the final dry
heat setting is below 120.degree. C., wrinkles created in the
fabric during the dyeing will tend to remain, and the dimensional
stability of the finished product may be impaired. Conversely, if
the temperature for the final dry heat setting is higher than
200.degree. C., crimping of the conjugate filaments created during
dyeing will be decreased and the filaments may stiffen and produce
too stiff a hand of the fabric.
[0100] In the woven or knitted fabric produced by the process of
the present invention, wetting of the woven or knitted fabric by
perspiration or rain causes a decrease in degree of crimping of the
crimped filaments A themselves, and an increase in their apparent
lengths. On the other hand, the filaments B do not elongate even
when wetted with water, and therefore the dimensions of the woven
or knitted fabric as a whole are fixed. The result is that wetting
with water causes the portions of the fabric containing the crimped
filaments A to form convexities, thereby manifesting roughness.
This manifestation of roughness can also reduce sticking of the
fabric to the skin when wetted with water. As a goal for reducing
stickiness, the sticking force is preferably no greater than 980 mN
(100 grf). To determine the sticking force, a piece of a fabric
having a length of 15 cm and a width of 6 cm is placed on a metal
roller having a diameter of 8 cm, and one end of the piece is
attached to a stress-strain gauge while a clip having a weight of
98 mN (10 grf) is attached at the other end of the fabric piece, as
shown in FIG. 1 of Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication HEI No.
9-195172. Next, the metal roller is rotated at a peripheral speed
of 7 cm/sec while injecting 0.5 cm.sup.3 of water by using a
syringe into between the metal roller and the fabric piece, and the
tension applied to the fabric piece is measured by using the
stress-strain gauge, while recording the measured maximum tention
value as the sticking force.
[0101] Conventional methods may be employed to subject the woven or
knitted fabric of the invention to water absorption treatment,
water repellent treatment, rising treatment, and another various
treatments for ultraviolet ray blocking, and imparting the
functions of antibacterial agents, deodorants, insecticides,
luminous agents, retroreflective agents, minus ion-generating
agents, etc, to the fabric.
[0102] A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
according to the present invention may be used for production of
various types of textile products.
[0103] Textile products according to the present invention include
outerwear sportswear, and underwear materials.
EXAMPLES
[0104] The present invention will be explained in detail through
the following examples which are in no way limitative on the scope
of the invention.
[0105] The following measurements were conducted for the examples
and comparative examples.
[0106] 1. Intrinsic Viscosity of Polyester
[0107] This was measured in ortho-chlorophenol as the solvent at
35.degree. C.
[0108] 2. Intrinsic Viscosity of Polyamide
[0109] This was measured in m-cresol as the solvent, at 30.degree.
C.
[0110] 3. Tensile Strength and Elongation at Break
[0111] A sample of filaments was allowed to stand in a constant
temperature constant humidity room kept at a temperature of
atmosphere 25.degree. C., at a humidity of 60% RH, for 24 hours and
then the sample having a length of 100 mm was set in a tester
(trademark: Tensilon, made by Shimadzu Laboratories Co., Ltd.), and
elongated at a rate of 200 mm/min, upon which the strength at
breakage (cN/dtex) and the elongation (%) at break were measured.
The average value of the data (n=5) was calculated.
[0112] 4. Shrinkage in Boiling Water
[0113] The shrinkage (%) in boiling water was measured by the
method specified according to JIS L 1013-1998, 7.15. The average
value of the data (n=3) was calculated.
[0114] 5. Percentage of Crimp of Conjugate Filaments
[0115] A wind-up frame having a circumference of 1.125 m was used
for rewinding filaments under a load of 49/50
mN.times.9.times.total tex (0.1 gf.times.total denier) at a fixed
speed for 10 winds to produce a small hank, and the small hank was
twisted into a double ring and immersed in boiling water while
applying an initial load of 49/2500 mN.times.20.times.9.times.total
tex (2 mg.times.20.times.total denier) to the hank for 30 minutes,
the hank was dried in a drier at 100.degree. C. for 30 minutes and
then placed in dry heater at 160.degree. C. for 5 minutes while
maintaining the initial load on the hank. The initial load was
removed after the dry heat treatment was completed, and the hank
was left to stand in an environment at a temperature of 20.degree.
C. at a humidity of 65% RH, for 24 hours or more the initial load
and an additional load of 98/50 mN.times.20.times.9.times.total tex
(0.2 gf.times.20.times.total denier) were applied to the hank, the
length L0 of the hank was measured, the additional load alone was
immediately removed, and one minute after removing the load the
length L1 of the hank was measured. The hank was then immersed in
water at a temperature of 20.degree. C. for 2 hours while
maintaining the initial load, removed from water and lightly wiped
off water with a filter paper, then the initial load and the
additional load were applied to the hank, the length L0' of the
hank was measured, the additional load alone was immediately
removed and, one minute after removing the load, the length L1' of
the hank was measured. These measured data were inserted into the
following equations to calculate the dry percentage of crimp (DC),
wet percentage of crimp (HC) and the difference (DC-HC) between the
dry and wet percentages of crimp. The average value of the data
(n=5) was calculated. Dry percentage of crimp
DC(%)=((L0-L1)/L0).times.100 Wet percentage of crimp
HC(%)=((L0'-L1')/L0').times.100
[0116] 6. Sticking Force
[0117] A test piece of a woven or knitted fabric having with a
length of 15 cm and a width of 6 cm was placed on a
surface-polished metal roller having a diameter of 8 cm, and one
end of the test piece was attached to a stress-strain gauge while a
clip having a weight of 98 mN (10 grf) was attached at the other
end of the test piece, as shown in FIG. 1 of Japanese Unexamined
Patent Publication No. 9-195172. Next, the metal roller was rotated
at a peripheral speed of 7 cm/sec while gently injecting 0.5 ml of
water with a syringe into between the metal roller and the test
piece, and the tension created on the test piece was measured with
the stress-strain gauge, and the measured maximum value of the
tention was recoaded as the sticking force. The average value of 5
measurement data (n) was determined. A high average value
represents an increased sticking force.
[0118] 7. Roughness Change
[0119] A woven or knitted fabric was left to stand in an
environment at a temperature of 20.degree. C., at a humidity of 65%
RH (n=5) for 24 hours, and then cut into 5 pieces (n=5) each having
30 cm.times.30 cm dimensions. The dry thickness (TD) of the test
pieces of the woven or knitted fabric was measured in an
environment of a temperature of 20.degree. C., and a humidity of
65% RH by using an ultrahigh-precision laser displacement gauge
(Model LC-2400, product of Keyence). Next, one ml of water was
dropped onto the test pieces with a dropper and one minute after
dropping water the water-wetted maximum thickness (TW) at the
water-dropped portion of the test pieces was measured using a
ultrahigh-precision laser displacement gauge (Model LC-2400,
product of Keyence). The roughness change was calculated in
accordance with the following equation. The average of five
measurement data (n=5) was determined. Roughness change
(%)=((TW-TD)/TD).times.100
Example 1
[0120] Nylon-6 with an intrinsic viscosity [.eta.] of 1.3 and
modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.6 molar
percent of 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid, having an intrinsic
viscosity [.eta.] of 0.39, were melted at 270.degree. C. and
290.degree. C., respectively. The same type of side-by-side
conjugate filament spinneret as that shown in FIG. 1 of Japanese
Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2000-144518 was used for
extrusion of the resins each at an extrusion rate of 12.7 g/min, to
form a side-by-side conjugate filaments having a cross-sectional
profile of the individual filaments as shown in FIG. 1, and the
extruded conjugate filaments were cooled to solidify and an oiling
agent was applied to the filaments. The filaments were preheated
with a preheating roller at a speed of 1,000 m/min at a temperature
of 60.degree. C., and then draw-heat treated between the preheating
roller and a heating roller heated to a temperature of 150.degree.
C., at a speed of 3050 m/min, then finally wound up to obtain an 84
dtex/24 filaments conjugate filament bundle. The tensile strength
of the obtained conjugate filaments was 3.4 cN/dtex, and the
elongation at break of the filaments was 40%. The conjugate
filaments bundle was treated in boiling water to express the
crimping, then the percentage of crimp was measured. The dry
percentage of crimp DC was 3.3%, the wet percentage of crimp HC was
1.6% and the difference (DC-HC) between the dry percentage of crimp
DC and wet percentage of crimp HC was 1.7%.
[0121] The non-crimped composite filament bundle (without boiling
water treatment and without crimping or twisting) and a
conventional 84 dtex/72 filaments polyethylene terephthalate
multifilament yarn (filament B) having a shrinkage in boiling water
of 8% were fed to a 28 gauge double circular knitting machine, for
knitting of a circular knitted fabric with the knitting structure
shown in Table 1. TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Knitting structure Feeding
side Feeding order C D C D C D C D C D C D C D C D C D C D C D C D
C D 24 x x x x x x x x x x x x x b 23 .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. a 22 x x x x x x x x x x
x x x b 21 .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. a 20 x x x x x x x x x x x x x b 19 .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. a 18 x x x
x x x x x x x x x x b 17 .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. a 16 x x x x x x x x x x x x x b 15
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. a 14 x x x x x x x x x x x x x b 13 .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. a 12 x x x
x x x x x x x x x x b 11 .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. a 10 x x x x x x x x x x x x x b 9
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. a 8 x x x x x x x x x x x x x b 7 .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. a 6 x x x x
x x x x x x x x x b 5 .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. a 4 x x x x x x x x x x x x x b 3
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. a 2 x x x x x x x x x x x x x b 1 .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle.
.smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. a [Notes:]
C: Cylinder side D: Dial side .smallcircle.: Dial side knit x:
Cylinder side knit : Cylinder side tack a: Non-crimped conjugate
filament yarn b: Polyester multifilament yarn
[0122] The circular knitted fabric was dyed under conditions of a
temperature of 130.degree. C. and a top temperature keeping time of
15 minutes, for expression of the latent crimping property of the
non-crimped conjugate filament yarn, to produce the crimped
filaments A. In the dyeing step, a hygroscopic agent (polyethylene
terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) was contained in an
amount of 2 ml/liter with respect to the dyeing solution for
treatment in the same bath as the dyeing bath, to apply a
hygroscopic treatment to the knitted fabric. The circular knit
fabric was subjected to final dry heat setting at a temperature of
160.degree. C. for 1 minute.
[0123] The cross-section of the circular knit fabric in the
thickness direction is shown in FIG. 4. In FIG. 4, a ply (Z ply)
was composed entirely of the filaments B, while the other ply (Y
ply) was composed entirely of the crimped filaments A, and the Z
ply and Y ply were partially tacked by the polyester filament B
yarn.
[0124] In the view of the Y ply side surface of the knitted fabric
as shown in FIG. 5, the Y ply was tacked in a lattice formed
portion to the Z ply and when wetted with water, the non-tacked
rectangular portions b of the Y ply form convexities to thereby
manifest roughness.
[0125] In this knitted fabric, the roughness change between wet and
dry states was 15% and the sticking force was 784 mN (80 gf), and
the low degree of stickiness when wetted with water was
satisfactory from a practical standpoint.
Example 2
[0126] Using a 28 gauge tricot knitting machine, the same
conjugated filament (filament A) as used in Example 1 was full-set
on a back reeds, while the same polyethylene terephthalate
multifilament yarn (filament B) as used in Example 1 was set on the
middle reeds at 2 in-10 out, and the same polyethylene
terephthalate multifilament yarn (filament B) as used in Example 1
was also set on the front reeds at 10 out-2 in, for knitting a
tricot knit with a structure of back: 10-12, middle:
10-12-23-34-45-43-32-21, front: 45-43-32-21-10-12-23-34, with
knitting conditions on the machine of 60 courses/2.54 cm. The
knitted fabric was then subjected to dye finishing in the same
manner as in Example 1.
[0127] For this knitted fabric, the dry cross-section in the
thickness direction comprised sections composed entirely of the
crimped filaments A (Y sections) and sections composed of the
crimped filaments A and filaments B (X sections), as shown in FIG.
6(A).
[0128] As can be seen in FIG. 7, the fabric surface had X sections
9 in a continuous lattice diamond pattern extending over the fabric
and, when wetted with water, the rectangular sections (Y sections)
8 surrounded by the lattice pattern formed convexities thus
manifesting roughness.
[0129] In this knit fabric, the roughness change between wet and
dry states was 25% and the sticking force was 686 mN (70 gf), and
therefore the low degree of stickiness when wetted with water was
satisfactory from a practical standpoint.
Comparative Example 1
[0130] A dyed (and water absorbing agent treated) circular knit
fabric was produced in the same manner as Example 1, except that,
the same conjugate filaments as used in Example 1 were employed
instead of the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn
(filaments B).
[0131] In this knit fabric, the roughness change between wet and
dry states was 2% and the sticking force was 1470 mN (150 gf), and
therefore the high degree of stickiness when wetted with water was
unsatisfactory from a practical standpoint.
INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY
[0132] According to the present invention, it is possible to
produce woven and knitted fabrics which reversibly manifest
roughness on their surfaces when wetted with water, while having
reduced roughness when dry, as well as textile products such as
outerwear, sportswear underwear produced from the woven or knitted
fabrics. Wearing such textile products can reduce sticking between
skin and clothing during periods of perspiration.
* * * * *