U.S. patent application number 10/574230 was filed with the patent office on 2007-07-26 for transparent cosmetic microemulsion-based formulation containing an alpha-hydroxy-carboxylic acid.
This patent application is currently assigned to BEIERSDORF AG. Invention is credited to Gordon Christ, Khiet Hien Diec, Linda Engfeldt, Heike Miertsch, Claudia Rohde, Ulrike Schulz, Katja Warnke.
Application Number | 20070172440 10/574230 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 34966964 |
Filed Date | 2007-07-26 |
United States Patent
Application |
20070172440 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Schulz; Ulrike ; et
al. |
July 26, 2007 |
Transparent cosmetic microemulsion-based formulation containing an
alpha-hydroxy-carboxylic acid
Abstract
The invention relates to a clear, microemulsion-based cosmetic
formulation with reduced stickiness, comprising at least one
antiperspirant active ingredient and/or deodorant active ingredient
and .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acid.
Inventors: |
Schulz; Ulrike; (Hamburg,
DE) ; Warnke; Katja; (Hamburg, DE) ; Christ;
Gordon; (Frankfurt, DE) ; Rohde; Claudia;
(Norderstedt, DE) ; Diec; Khiet Hien; (Hamburg,
DE) ; Engfeldt; Linda; (Hamburg, DE) ;
Miertsch; Heike; (Hamburg, DE) |
Correspondence
Address: |
GREENBLUM & BERNSTEIN, P.L.C.
1950 ROLAND CLARKE PLACE
RESTON
VA
20191
US
|
Assignee: |
BEIERSDORF AG
Hamburg
DE
D-20245
|
Family ID: |
34966964 |
Appl. No.: |
10/574230 |
Filed: |
April 27, 2005 |
PCT Filed: |
April 27, 2005 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/EP05/51898 |
371 Date: |
August 31, 2006 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/68 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/28 20130101; A61K
8/365 20130101; A61K 8/26 20130101; A61Q 15/00 20130101; A61K 8/068
20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/068 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/26 20060101
A61K008/26; A61K 8/58 20060101 A61K008/58 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Apr 27, 2004 |
DE |
102004020711.9 |
Apr 13, 2005 |
DE |
10 2005 017 032.3 |
Claims
1.-15. (canceled)
16. A cosmetic formulation which is based on a microemulsion and
comprises (a) at least one of an antiperspirant active ingredient
and a deodorant active ingredient and (b) at least one
a-hydroxycarboxylic acid.
17. The cosmetic formulation of claim 16, wherein (b) comprises
mandelic acid.
18. The cosmetic formulation of claim 16, wherein the microemulsion
comprises an O/W microemulsion.
19. The cosmetic formulation of claim 16, wherein the formulation
comprises a microemulsion gel.
20. The cosmetic formulation of claim 19, wherein the formulation
comprises an oil-in-water microemulsion which comprises an oil
phase, a water phase and less than 20% by weight of one or more
emulsifiers, based on a total weight of the microemulsion.
21. The cosmetic formulation of claim 20, wherein the oil phase is
essentially composed of constituents of low volatility.
22. The cosmetic formulation of claim 20, wherein the one more
emulsifiers comprise one or more O/W emulsifiers selected from
polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and polyethoxylated and
polypropoxylated O/W emulsifiers and one or more optional W/O
emulsifiers.
23. The cosmetic formulation of claim 22, wherein the microemulsion
is obtainable by bringing a mixture comprising the water phase, the
oil phase, the one or more O/W emulsifiers and the one or more
optional W/O emulsifiers to a temperature within or above a phase
inversion temperature range and subsequently cooling the mixture to
room temperature.
24. The cosmetic formulation of claim 23, wherein droplets of a
discontinuous oil phase are joined together by one or more
crosslinker substances whose molecules comprise at least one
hydrophilic region which has a size suitable for bridging a
distance between the droplets and at least one hydrophobic region
which is able to enter into hydrophobic interaction with the
droplets.
25. The cosmetic formulation of claim 16, wherein the formulation
comprises one or more antiperspirant active ingredients.
26. The cosmetic formulation of claim 25, wherein the one or more
antiperspirant active ingredients comprise one or more aluminum
salts.
27. The cosmetic formulation of claim 26, wherein the one or more
aluminum salts comprise at least one of aluminum chlorohydrate and
activated aluminum chlorohydrate.
28. The cosmetic formulation of claim 25, wherein the ratio of the
one or more antiperspirant active ingredients to the at least one
a-hydroxycarboxylic acid is from 15:1 to 1:1.
29. The cosmetic formulation of claim 28, wherein the ratio is from
12:1 to 2:1.
30. The cosmetic formulation of claim 29, wherein the ratio is from
10:1 to 2.5:1.
31. The cosmetic formulation of claim 25, wherein the formulation
comprises from 1% to 35% by weight of the one or more
antiperspirant active ingredients, based on a total weight of the
formulation.
32. The cosmetic formulation of claim 31, wherein the formulation
comprises up to 25% by weight of the one or more antiperspirant
active ingredients.
33. The cosmetic formulation of claim 32, wherein the formulation
comprises up to 20% by weight of the one or more antiperspirant
active ingredients.
34. The cosmetic formulation of claim 16, wherein the formulation
comprises from 0.1% to 10% by weight of (b), based on a total
weight of the formulation.
35. The cosmetic formulation of claim 34, wherein the formulation
comprises up to 8% by weight of (b).
36. The cosmetic formulation of claim 16, wherein the formulation
has a defined yield point.
37. The cosmetic formulation of claim 36, wherein the formulation
has a yield point of from 40 to 120 Pa, determined at 25.degree. C.
by means of a shear stress time ramp of 40 Pa/min.
38. The cosmetic formulation of claim 16, wherein the formulation
is suitable for application to human skin.
39. The cosmetic formulation of claim 16, wherein the formulation
is transparent.
40. An antiperspirant or deodorant product which comprises the
cosmetic formulation of claim 16.
41. The antiperspirant or deodorant product of claim 40 which is
transparent.
42. A process for making a transparent antiperspirant or deodorant
product, wherein the process comprises combining an ONV
microemulsion, at least one .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acid, and at
least one of an antiperspirant active ingredient and a deodorant
active ingredient.
43. The process of claim 42, wherein the at least one
.alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acid comprises mandelic acid.
44. A process for making an O/W microemulsion with a defined yield
point, wherein the process comprises combining an O/W microemulsion
with at least one .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acid and at least one
of an antiperspirant active ingredient and a deodorant active
ingredient.
45. The process of claim 44, wherein the at least one
.alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acid comprises mandelic acid.
Description
[0001] The invention relates to a clear, cosmetic and
dermatological emulsion-based formulation with reduced stickiness
and yield point.
[0002] For aesthetic reasons in particular, transparent and
translucent products are preferred by many consumers. Thus,
transparent formulations are often used, for example, as deodorant
or antiperspirant (AP). These can nowadays be realized by the
following technologies: [0003] 1. aqueous-alcoholic formulations
[0004] 2. water-in-silicone emulsions [0005] 3. microemulsions
[0006] The aqueous-alcoholic deodorant and AP formulations are
mostly based on water and alcohol as medium, deodorant and
antiperspirant agents as active ingredients, and also perfume,
solubilizers and thickeners (mostly based on carbohydrate) as
additional agents. They are perceived by the consumer as being
fresh and cooling, but are at the same time encumbered with a whole
series of disadvantages. Thus, for example, application primarily
to freshly shaved skin is associated with incompatibilities as a
result of the alcohol content. Another major disadvantage is the
fact that relatively large amounts of oil cannot be incorporated
into such systems. As a result of the high content of
antiperspirant salt required for highly effective performance, a
white residue remains following application to the skin; this is
perceived by the consumer as being extremely troublesome. However,
due to the absence of a sufficiently large oil phase for technical
reasons, this cannot be concealed. Moreover, the use of
carbohydrate thickeners leads to high stickiness of the product
after the alcohol has evaporated.
[0007] Water-in-silicone emulsions belong to the group of
water-in-oil emulsions. The water phase comprising ethanol or
polyhydric alcohols, such as, for example, propylene glycol and
water-soluble active ingredients, such as AP agent and/or deodorant
active ingredient, constitutes about 75-90% of the formulation. The
oil phase consists of a volatile and a nonvolatile silicone oil and
also a silicone emulsifier.
[0008] The transparency of water-in-silicone emulsions is based on
matching the refractive indices of the two phases. It is a drawback
that even a difference in the indices of 0.0004 caused, for
example, by evaporation, leads to cloudiness. WO 98/32418 and WO
92/05767 describe such deodorant or AP formulations based on W/Si
emulsion.
[0009] One approach for solving the described disadvantages has
been made possible through cosmetically pleasing alcohol-free and
transparent products which are based on so-called microemulsions.
These have the major advantage that even relatively large amounts
of various oils--with all of the described positive effects for the
consumer--can be stably incorporated. Formulations of this type are
in principle available by means of phase inversion temperature
technology (PIT) or high-pressure homogenization. The required
stability of the emulsifier system to high concentrations of
antiperspirant salts, however, places high demands on the
formulation skill of the product developer.
[0010] WO 9628132 and WO 9815255 describe microemulsions of this
type. The disclosure of these documents is thus explicitly part of
the present invention. However, a sticky feel on the skin sometimes
caused by the thickener, and the lack of a yield point of the
microemulsion is also disadvantageous in the case of these
formulations.
[0011] It is an object of the present invention to provide a
cosmetic preparation which enriches the prior art and helps to
avoid its disadvantages.
[0012] In particular, it is the object of the present invention to
provide a cosmetic and/or dermatological formulation which is
transparent and is characterized by minimized stickiness. In
particular, the object was to provide a deodorant or antiperspirant
formulation which is transparent and has no cloudiness at all,
which is characterized by a minimized stickiness and which has a
defined yield point for optimized discharge and application.
[0013] The bundle of objects is achieved by a cosmetic formulation
corresponding to claim 1. The subject-matter of the dependent
claims are advantageous embodiments of the preparation according to
the invention. Furthermore, the invention includes the use of such
preparations.
[0014] It was surprising and unforeseeable by the person skilled in
the art that by adding at least one antiperspirant active
ingredient, at least one .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acid, preferably
mandelic acid, and a microemulsion, in particular of the oil in
water type, the provision of a transparent formulation with a
defined yield point is possible and thus permits the provision of a
transparent and low-stick cosmetic antiperspirant and/or deodorant
preparation.
[0015] Through the surprisingly simple combination of
antiperspirant active ingredients and mandelic acid in O/W
microemulsions it is possible to prepare transparent cosmetic
formulations which have reduced or no objectively or subjectively
perceived stickiness.
[0016] Hydroxyphenylacetic acid or else phenylglycolic acid with
the formula H.sub.5C.sub.6--CH(OH)--COOH, C.sub.8H.sub.8O.sub.3, is
known under the name mandelic acid. Mandelic acid is readily
soluble in water, alcohol, ether and 2-propanol. Synthetically,
(.+-.)-mandelic acid is obtained from benzaldehyde and hydrocyanic
acid via the .alpha.-hydroxynitrile (cyanohydrin) and its acidic
hydrolysis corresponding to FIG. 1:
[0017] FIG. 1: Preparation of mandelic acid ##STR1##
[0018] By means of an .alpha.-hydroxycarboxylic acid, preferably
mandelic acid, it is surprisingly possible to prepare an AP or
deodorant preparation which permits the required properties, such
as transparency and low stickiness and, moreover, also the
establishment of a specific yield point of the preparation.
Furthermore, the formulation according to the invention is absorbed
very rapidly into the skin without leaving residues behind.
[0019] Advantageously, the preparation according to the invention
is based on microemulsions, preference being given to O/W
microemulsions, in particular microemulsion gels, as are claimed in
WO 9815255 and WO 9628132, the relevant disclosures therein thus
belong explicitly to the disclosure of the present invention.
[0020] The cosmetic formulation is accordingly preferably based on
microemulsion gels which are based a) on microemulsions of the
oil-in-water type which comprise [0021] an oil phase which is
essentially composed of constituents of low volatility, and a water
phase [0022] comprising: [0023] one or more polyethoxylated O/W
emulsifiers and/or [0024] one or more polypropoxylated O/W
emulsifiers and/or [0025] one or more polyethoxylated and
polypropoxylated O/W emulsifiers, [0026] optionally also comprising
one or more W/O emulsifiers [0027] having an emulsifier content of
less than 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion,
[0028] obtainable by bringing a mixture of the base components,
comprising water phase, oil phase, one or more of the O/W
emulsifiers according to the invention, optionally, one or more W/O
emulsifiers, and if desired further auxiliaries, additives and/or
active ingredients, to a temperature within or above the phase
inversion temperature range, and subsequently cooling to room
temperature, [0029] (b) in which the droplets of the discontinuous
oil phase are joined together by one or more crosslinker substances
whose molecules are characterized by at least one hydrophilic
region which has a size suitable for bridging the distance between
the microemulsion droplets, and by at least one hydrophobic region
which is able to enter into hydrophobic interaction with the
microemulsion droplets.
[0030] However, it is a problem of the microemulsions described in
WO 9815255 and WO 9628132 that a defined yield point could not be
established. This object has likewise been achieved by the present
invention.
[0031] In simple emulsions, finely disperse droplets of one phase
(water droplets in the case of W/O emulsions or lipid vesicles in
O/W emulsions) surrounded by an emulsifier sheath are present in
the second phase. The droplet diameters of customary emulsions are
in the range from about 1 .mu.m to about 50 .mu.m. Such
"macroemulsions" are, without further coloring additives, milky
white in color and opaque. Finer "macroemulsions", the droplet
diameters of which are in the range from about 10.sup.-1 .mu.m to
about 1 .mu.m, are, again without coloring additives, bluish white
in color and opaque.
[0032] Only micellar and molecular solutions with particle
diameters of less than about 10.sup.-2 .mu.m appear clear and
transparent.
[0033] The droplet diameter of transparent or translucent
microemulsions on the other hand is in the range from about
10.sup.-2 .mu.m to about 10.sup.-1 .mu.m. Such microemulsions are
mostly of low viscosity. The viscosity of many microemulsions of
the O/W type is comparable with that of water. The viscosity of
these microemulsions can be increased with the help of associative
thickeners, meaning that viscous gels are then present.
[0034] The preparation according to the invention is also
advantageously in the form of a gel and has a yield point as a
result of which discharge and application is improved compared to
preparations from the prior art.
[0035] Besides those known from the prior art, the emulsifiers used
are, in particular, fatty alcohol ethoxylates, such as, for
example, polyethylene glycol(16) stearyl ether, fatty acid
ethoxylates, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol(14)
stearate, polyethylene glycol glyceryl fatty acid esters, such as,
for example, polyethylene glycol(15) glyceryl laurate, and the W/O
emulsifier used is, for example, glyceryl monostearate.
[0036] The oil phase preferably consists of esters of saturated and
unsaturated, branched and unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids or
alcohols with chain lengths of 12-25 C atoms, such as, for example,
octyidodecanol.
[0037] The combination according to the invention of AP active
ingredient, mandelic acid and microemulsion, preferably the
microemulsions disclosed in WO 9815255 and WO 9628132, makes it
possible to produce a transparent cosmetic preparation via a unique
thickening mechanism. The user thus has for the first time a
water-clear and nevertheless extremely effective preparation at his
disposal. The preparation according to the invention is easy to
apply in gel form and has a pleasant feel on the skin on account of
the lack of stickiness.
[0038] The combination of a-hydroxycarboxylic acid, preferably of
mandelic acid, an anti-perspirant active ingredient and/or
deodorant active ingredient and an O/W micro-emulsion as in WO
9815255 or WO 9628132 permit the preparation of a transparent AP or
deodorant preparation which also has low stickiness and a specific
yield point.
[0039] As antiperspirant active ingredient it is advantageously
possible to incorporate acidic aluminum salts in aqueous solution.
Here, the concentration ranges described refer to the so-called
active contents of the antiperspirant complexes: in the case of the
aluminum compounds, to anhydrous complexes. Moreover, preference is
also given to the use of so-called activated aluminum
chlorohydrates. The list which follows of antiperspirant active
ingredients which are to be used advantageously is in no way
intended to be limiting:
[0040] aluminum salts (of the empirical formula
[Al.sub.2(OH).sub.mCl.sub.n], where m+n=6): [0041] aluminum
chlorohydrate [Al.sub.2(OH).sub.5Cl].times.H.sub.2O Standard Al
complexes: Locron L, Locron LIC, Locron LIF (Clariant), Chlorhydrol
(Reheis), ACH-303 (Summit), Aloxicoll L (Giulini) [0042] activated
Al complexes: Reach 501 (Reheis), Aloxicoll 51 L [0043] aluminum
sesquichlorohydrate [Al.sub.2(OH).sub.4.5Cl.sub.1.5].times.H.sub.2O
Standard Al complexes: Aloxicoll 31L (Giulini), Westchlor 186
(Westwood Chemicals) [0044] activated Al complexes: Reach 301
(Reheis) [0045] aluminum dichlorohydrate
[Al.sub.2(OH).sub.4Cl.sub.2].times.H.sub.2O p The antiperspirant
active ingredients are used in the formulations according to the
invention in an amount of from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from
1 to 20% by weight.
[0046] Deodorants can also advantageously be added to preparations
according to the invention. Customary cosmetic deodorants are based
on various activity principles.
[0047] By using antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants it
is possible to reduce the bacteria flora on the skin. Here, in the
ideal case, only the odor-causing microorganisms should be
effectively reduced. The flow of perspiration itself is not
influenced as a result, in an ideal case only the microbial
decomposition of the perspiration is stopped temporarily. The
combination of astringents with antimicrobially effective
substances in one and the same composition is also customary.
[0048] All active ingredients customary for deodorants can be used
advantageously, for example odor concealers, such as customary
perfume constituents, odor absorbers, for example the sheet
silicates described in DE 40 09 347, of these in particular
montmorillonite, kaolinite, illite, beidellite, nontronite,
saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, also, for example, zinc
salts of ricinoleic acid. Antimicrobial agents are likewise
suitable for incorporation into the preparations according to the
invention. Advantageous substances are, for example,
2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan),
1,6-di(4-chlorophenylbiguanido)hexane (chlorhexidine),
3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, oil of
cloves, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol
(3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), and the active agents
described in DE 37 40 186, DE 39 38 140, DE 42 04 321, DE 42 29
707, DE 42 29 737, DE 42 37 081, DE 43 09 372, DE 43 24 219. Sodium
hydrogencarbonate can also be used advantageously.
[0049] The amount of deodorants (one or more compounds) in the
preparations is preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05
to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0050] A combination of mandelic acid and aluminum chlorohydrate
where the ratio of aluminum chlorohydrate to mandelic acid is 15:1
to 1:1, preferably 12:1 to 2:1, in particular 10:1 to 2.5:1, has
proven to be particularly advantageous.
[0051] In particular, it was an object of the present invention to
improve the sensory properties of the known AP and/or deodorant
preparations as are described, for example, in WO 9628132 and WO
9815255.
[0052] For this purpose, the following comparative experiments on
the basis of a micro-emulsion were set up.
[0053] Table 1 shows the comparison of various transparent
formulations in a sensory research panel consisting of eight
trained testers. For this, the samples were applied to the skin in
a defined amount and evaluated by reference to an evaluation scale
(1=not sticky; 10=considerably sticky). TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1
Example according to the invention Comparative examples
Microemulsion Microemulsion without containing mandelic mandelic
acid, with acid more thickener Ability to soak in, in 148 175
seconds Stickiness scale from 1.8 2.8 1-10
[0054] Rheology Test
[0055] The yield point is a term for the smallest shear stress
above which a plastic material behaves in rheological terms like a
liquid (DIN 1342-1: 1983-10). The yield point is determined by
recording a flow curve (in accordance with DIN 53019: 1980-05; DIN
53214; 1982-02). The value obtained is heavily dependent on the
timescale (stress rate) on which the measurement is based. This is
irrespective of whether the measurement is carried out using a
shear stress-controlled or speed-controlled viscometer. Short
timescales (rapid stresses) generally produce higher values for the
yield point. An excessively high yield point may be the cause of
flow disturbances. On the other hand, with a suitably dimensioned
yield point it is possible to suppress the tendency of the liquid
formulation to run.
[0056] The yield point measurements were carried out on a SR-2000
rheometer from Rheometric Scientific with the following
requirements:
[0057] The temperature is kept constant at 25.degree. C. using a
Peltier element; before the test a recovery time of 5 minutes is
waited. With a coaxial plate consisting of plastic/plate
measurement system with a diameter of 25 mm and a plate distance of
1 mm, a shear stress time ramp with 40 Pa/min from 0 Pa to 800 Pa
is chosen. To determine the yield point, the viscosity is plotted
logarithmically over the linear shear stress and the viscosity
maximum, i.e. the critical shear stress, is given together with the
maximum viscosity which goes with it. Formulations without a yield
point have no maximum.
[0058] On account of their structurally viscous property,
formulations with yield points have a lower tendency to run and are
therefore suitable for easier discharge and application. Using the
shear stress time ramp (40 Pa/min; 25.degree. C.) it was possible
to establish the following maxima for the flow curves of
preparations according to the invention: TABLE-US-00002 Shear
stress (Pa) Viscosity (Pas) Microemulsion without No maximum
mandelic acid Microemulsion (0.7% 50 8,150 PEG-150 distearate) with
1.5% mandelic acid Microemulsion (0.7% 111 96,230 PEG-150
distearate) with 2.0% mandelic acid Microemulsion (1% 47 7,210
PEG-150 distearate) with 1.5% mandelic acid Microemulsion (1% 117
77,690 PEG-150 distearate) with 2.0% mandelic acid
[0059] The advantage of the microemulsion according to the
invention with yield point is that, as a result of the yield point,
running out of the applicator is prevented since the formulation is
not flowable without shearing.
[0060] The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to
the invention can comprise cosmetic auxiliaries as are customarily
used in such preparations, e.g. preservatives, bactericides, UV
filters, antioxidants, water-soluble vitamins, mineral substances,
suspended solid particles, perfumes, substances for preventing
foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners,
moisturizing and/or humectant substances or other customary
constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation, such as
alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers or silicone
derivatives.
[0061] The preparation according to the invention is prepared by
heating water phase and oil phase separately from one another to
85.degree. C. The phases are then combined with stirring (paddle
stirrer 200 rpm). Mandelic acid is dissolved in water, added to the
emulsion at 30.degree. C. and stirred for 30 min.
[0062] To apply the preparation, conventional packagings for
deodorants and/or antiperspirants can be used, e.g. stick
dispensers, gel dispensers, tubes and roll-ons.
[0063] In the examples the data in percent by weight are based on
the total mass of the preparation.
EXAMPLES
[0064] TABLE-US-00003 1 2 3 Glyceryl isostearate 2.6 2.5 2.5
Isoceteth-20 5 5 5 PEG-150 distearate 1 1.5 0.7 Dicaprylyl ether 5
5 5 Mandelic acid 1.5 1.5 2 Aluminum chlorohydrate 10 10 10 Perfume
1 1 1 Butylene glycol 3 -- 3 Methylparaben 0.2 0.2 -- Water 70.7
73.3 70.8
* * * * *