U.S. patent application number 11/248787 was filed with the patent office on 2007-04-12 for brassiere construction using multiple layers of fabric.
This patent application is currently assigned to INVISTA NORTH AMERICA S.A.R.L. Invention is credited to Joyce I. Baran, Petros Dafniotis, Douglas K. Farmer.
Application Number | 20070082579 11/248787 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 37663229 |
Filed Date | 2007-04-12 |
United States Patent
Application |
20070082579 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Baran; Joyce I. ; et
al. |
April 12, 2007 |
Brassiere construction using multiple layers of fabric
Abstract
A brassiere or breast shaping garment has a pair of
breast-receiving cups, each of which is formed with an inner fabric
layer and an outer fabric layer. The inner fabric layer is placed
in an angular orientation relative to the outer fabric layer.
Further, the inner fabric layer and the outer fabric layer have
sufficiently isotropic hysteresis.
Inventors: |
Baran; Joyce I.; (Stratford,
CT) ; Dafniotis; Petros; (Geneva, CH) ;
Farmer; Douglas K.; (Greensboro, NC) |
Correspondence
Address: |
INVISTA NORTH AMERICA S.A.R.L.
THREE LITTLE FALLS CENTRE/1052
2801 CENTERVILLE ROAD
WILMINGTON
DE
19808
US
|
Assignee: |
INVISTA NORTH AMERICA
S.A.R.L
Wilmington
DE
|
Family ID: |
37663229 |
Appl. No.: |
11/248787 |
Filed: |
October 11, 2005 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
450/77 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A41D 7/00 20130101; A41C
5/00 20130101; A41C 3/00 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
450/077 |
International
Class: |
A41C 3/00 20060101
A41C003/00 |
Claims
1. A body-shaping garment such as a brassiere, comprising: a
breast-receiving cup having an inner fabric layer and an outer
fabric layer, wherein the inner fabric layer defines a first X-X'
axis and first Y-Y' axis and the outer fabric layer defines a
second X-X' axis and second Y-Y' axis, and the inner fabric layer
and outer fabric layer are oriented such that the first X-X' axis
of the inner fabric layer is at a first angle .THETA..sub.1 to the
second X-X' axis of the outer fabric layer, and wherein the inner
fabric layer and the outer fabric layer incorporate a material
having hysteresis values for each fabric layer with an S value
defined by: S = std .function. ( H L & .times. L , H W &
.times. W , H L & .times. W ) mean .function. ( H L &
.times. L , H W & .times. W , H L & .times. W ) .times. 100
.times. % .ltoreq. 10 .times. % . ##EQU4##
2. The garment of claim 1, wherein the first angle .THETA..sub.1
varies from 15 degrees to 165 degrees.
3. The garment of claim 1 wherein the inner fabric layer and the
outer fabric layer are oriented such that the first X-X' axis of
the inner fabric layer is at a second angle .THETA..sub.2 from a
horizontal axis defined by the brassiere or garment, and wherein
the second angle .THETA..sub.2 varies from 0-180 degrees.
4. The garment of claim 1, wherein the inner fabric layer and the
outer fabric layer comprise circular knit, tricot warp knit,
raschel warp knit, lace, flat knit, woven, and nowoven fabric.
5. The garment of claim 1, wherein the inner fabric layer and the
outer fabric layer each contain LYCRA.RTM. T902C spandex
6. The garment of claim 1 wherein the inner fabric layer and the
outer fabric layer are molded.
7. The garment of claim 1, wherein the garment is a brassiere with
a pair of cups, and wherein each cup is at least one of full, half
or partial coverage types.
8. The garment of claim 6, wherein the inner fabric layer is joined
to the outer fabric layer.
9. The garment of claim 8, wherein the garment comprises: a left
cup; a left wing part; a left shoulder strap; a bridge; a right
cup; a right wing part; a right shoulder strap; a fastener; and a
mating fastener or hook band, and wherein the left cup is attached
at one edge to the left wing part and at another edge to one end of
the bridge, the left shoulder strap is connected at one end to a
distal end of the left wing part and at an other end to an upper
part of the left cup, the right cup is attached at one edge to the
right wing part and at an other edge to one end of the bridge, the
right shoulder strap is connected at one end to a distal end of the
right wing part and at an other end to an upper part of the right
cup, and the fastener is connected to the distal end of the right
wing part and the mating fastener is connected to the distal end of
the left wing part.
10. The garment of claim 9, further comprising a sheath attached to
at least one of a pair of cups, defined by the right cup and the
left cup, and a pair of wing parts, defined by the right wing part
and the left wing part; and an underwire contained within the
sheath.
11. The garment of claim 10, wherein the brassiere is at least one
of an unbanded underwire, a banded underwire, a hidden underwire, a
demi-cup underwire, a soft cup invisible support and a triangle
soft cup minimal bra.
12. The garment of claim 9 wherein the cups each comprise two to
five layers of fabric.
13. The garment of claim 1 wherein said garment is a bra.
14. The garment of claim 1 wherein said garment is a swimsuit.
Description
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The field of the invention is generally related to
body-shaping garments, and more specifically, to a brassiere
construction or body-shaping garment construction fabricated with
multiple layers of elastomeric fabric.
[0002] In the garment industry designers seek to develop women's
body-shaping garments (e.g., brassieres, lingerie, girdles, stretch
pants, and swimsuits) that are comfortable to wear,
figure-enhancing, lightweight and aesthetically pleasing. In
particular, brassiere constructions have two principal goals: (a)
wearer comfort and (b) lift support for the breasts. The two
principal goals can be mutually exclusive.
[0003] Various types of brassieres have been designed to be
lightweight, comfortable and give breast support. Many brassieres
incorporate stretchable or elastic materials for wearer comfort.
However, many of these brassieres support the breasts by utilizing
constrictive materials. For example, constrictive materials may
press the breasts against the body with such pressure as to cause
irritation and discomfort. Alternatively, constrictive materials
may press, bend or poke the wearer's skin. Examples of such
constrictive materials used in bra design include, but are not
limited to, underwires, heavy elastic materials, pads and seams
that press directly on the skin of the wearer. Additionally, as the
body moves, the wearer may experience several changes in brassiere
position. These changes may impact negatively the comfort of the
wearer. For example, the movement may cause the wearer to have
areas where the body and the garment are not in direct contact.
Furthermore, the garment may slide along the body as movement
occurs. The separation of the garment from the wearer's bust during
movement typically results in an undesirable loss of body shaping
or support. Comfort of the garment may be impacted as well. Wearer
movement and resulting shifting of the garment may cause the wearer
to reposition the garment back to its original position on the body
to achieve original comfort and shaping
[0004] U.S. Pat. No. 4,481,951 to Cole et al., entitled "Method of
Fabricating Two Layer Cups and Brassiere," which issued Nov. 13,
1984, discloses a brassiere cup molded from two layers of
stretchable materials. However, the resulting cup has a
non-stretchable crown portion, a substantially non-stretchable
longitudinal cup portion and a unitary multidirectional stretchable
periphery. The lack of stretch in the cup after molding, limits
wearer comfort and garment shaping ability.
[0005] U.S. Pat. No. 5,447,462 to Smith et al., entitled "Fabric
Laminate and Garments Incorporating Same," which issued Sep. 5,
1995, discloses a multiple-layer stretch fabric used to form
discrete portions of a garment in which it is desired to provide
certain control properties. Although the selective use of stretch
control laminate fabrics provided a step forward in the art, the
fabric laminates of the '462 patent are intended to be used only
selectively and not over the entire body of the garment. If the
materials of the '462 patent were used as the principal fabric
forming the garment, either the garment would be too constricting,
and/or the entire garment (rather than only selected portions of
the garment) would have the same controlling features
throughout.
[0006] German Patent No. DE20114873, entitled "Brassiere," which
published Nov. 11, 2001, discloses two padded bra cups that are at
least partly isolated from each other. In addition, each padded bra
cup includes two stretchable woven fabric layers. However, the two
stretchable woven fabric layers are essentially flexible along only
one axis (i.e., either along the X-axis or Y-axis, but not both).
That is, the '873 patent discloses the inner and outer fabric
layers are each only elastic in one direction while they exhibit in
all other directions practically no or at least very little
elasticity. Although the use of these stretchable woven fabrics was
yet another step forward, the limitation of the stretchable
direction to only one axis restricts the potential level of comfort
and control provided by the brassiere formed with such fabrics. In
addition, the '873 patent shows a woven fabric with capability of
stretching in one direction rather than an elastomeric knit fabric
that would have increased capability of stretching in multiple
directions. Furthermore, brassieres with woven fabric cups are a
niche market, with the majority of brassieres being made with
knitted fabrics.
[0007] U.S. patent application Ser. No. 10/506,228 to Falla
entitled "Brassiere" which published Oct. 6, 2005, discloses a
brassiere that has two layers of fabric and an anchor support panel
in the cup. The three layers are preferably made of fabric with
one-way stretch. The anchor causes the brassiere to remain flat
against the body of the wearer. The application teaches away from
the garment of the present invention as it states that brassieres
formed primarily of stretchable fabrics may not provide sufficient
support.
[0008] It should be noted that three dimensional shaping ability
with minimal garment slippage on the body and dynamic body shaping
typically is not available in brassiere cup designs (e.g., cups
made from two-ply stretchable fabrics). In fact in typical
brassieres, wearer movement causes loss of shaping ability and
garment slippage. Moreover, though brassiere constructions have
been implemented with LYCRA.RTM. (a registered trademark of and
commercially available from Invista S. a r. I. of Wichita, Kans.
and Wilmington, Del.) elastane products, further improvement in the
level of comfort, shaping ability and support of such
LYCRA.RTM.-based products is a desirable goal.
[0009] Therefore, there is a need for body-shaping garments that
have multiple layers of elastomeric knitted fabrics, such as
LYCRA.RTM.-containing fabrics, or at least fabrics stretchable in
more than one direction, that can provide improved comfort, shaping
ability and support to the wearer.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0010] The present invention utilizes advances in the development
of new fabrics in an engineered brassiere construction that
contains multiple layers of fabric to provide for maximum comfort,
shaping and control of the body of the wearer of a brassiere or
other body shaping garment during movement and/or static
conditions. It has been found advantageous to include multiple
layers of particular materials in selected locations in a brassiere
(e.g., bra cups or wings) in order to better provide the desirable
features of comfort, body shaping and support. In the present
invention, the layers of these fabrics may take on predetermined
shapes and may be arranged in predetermined orientations relative
to each other in the design of the cups of the brassiere
construction. The layers of these fabrics may be used either alone
or in combination with other materials that are sewn or otherwise
applied to the fabrics. The layers of fabrics in the garment of the
present invention may be molded. One embodiment of the present
invention is a body-shaping garment such as a brassiere,
comprising: a breast-receiving cup having an inner fabric layer and
an outer fabric layer. In addition, in this embodiment the inner
fabric layer defines a first X-X' axis and first Y-Y' axis and the
outer fabric layer defines a second X-X' axis and second Y-Y' axis,
and the inner fabric layer and outer fabric layer are oriented such
that the first X-X' axis of the inner fabric layer is at a first
angle .THETA..sub.1 to the second X-X' axis of the outer fabric
layer. In order to ensure that garments of the present invention
have 3D shaping ability, minimal slippage on the body, and maximum
wearer comfort, the fabrics used to make such garments may have
particular isotropic hysteresis properties. Further, for this
embodiment of the present invention, the inner fabric layer and the
outer fabric layer incorporate a material having hysteresis values
for each fabric layer with an S value defined by: S = std
.function. ( H L & .times. L , H W & .times. W , H L &
.times. W ) mean .function. ( H L & .times. L , H W &
.times. W , H L & .times. W ) .times. 100 .times. % .ltoreq. 10
.times. % . ##EQU1##
[0011] Further, in the above embodiment of the present invention,
the brassiere comprises: a left cup; a left wing part; a left
shoulder strap; a bridge; a right cup; a right wing part; a right
shoulder strap; a fastener; and a mating fastener or hook band.
Furthermore, in the above embodiment of the present invention, the
left cup is attached at one edge to the left wing part and at an
other edge to one end of the bridge, the left shoulder strap is
connected at one end to a distal end of the left wing part and at
an other end to an upper part of the left cup, the right cup is
attached at one edge to the right wing part and at an other edge to
one end of the bridge, the right shoulder strap is connected at one
end to a distal end of the right wing part and at an other end to
an upper part of the right cup. Moreover, in the above embodiment
of the present invention, the fastener is connected to the distal
end of the right wing part and the mating fastener is connected to
the distal end of the left wing part.
[0012] The present invention includes a brassiere comprising a pair
of cups, each of which further comprises an inner fabric layer and
an outer fabric layer. In addition, the brassiere may include an
angular orientation of the inner fabric layer relative to the outer
fabric layer that can be determined by a value of a first angle,
.THETA..sub.1. Further, the inner fabric layer and the outer fabric
layer have sufficiently isotropic hysteresis as defined further in
the specification that allows the brassiere to conform to movements
of the breasts with minimal slippage on the body.
[0013] The brassiere may be at least one of an unbanded underwire,
a banded underwire, a hidden underwire, a demi-cup underwire, a
soft cup invisible support and a triangle soft cup minimal bra. The
pair of cups may be at least one of full, half or partial coverage
type cups. The brassiere may also be molded.
[0014] The inner layer of fabric defines crossed axes
X.sub.4-X'.sub.4 and Y.sub.4-Y'.sub.4, and the outer layer of
fabric defines crossed axes X.sub.6-X'.sub.6 and Y.sub.6-Y'.sub.6.
A first angle .THETA..sub.1 is defined as the angle between axes
X.sub.4-X'.sub.4 and X.sub.6-X'.sub.6. The first angle
.THETA..sub.1 may vary from about 15 degrees to about 165 degrees.
The second angle .THETA..sub.2 is defined as the angle between a
direction of maximum elasticity of the outer fabric layer (i.e.,
X.sub.6 in FIG. 1) and a horizontal direction of the garment (i.e.,
X.sub.g in FIG. 1). The second angle .THETA..sub.2 can vary from 0
degrees to 180 degrees.
[0015] Variation of the first angle .THETA..sub.1, the second angle
.THETA..sub.2 and the isotropic hysteresis of each the inner fabric
layer and outer fabric layer may determine the shaping, comfort and
control of the brassiere. The first angle .THETA..sub.1 and the
second angle .THETA..sub.2 may be predetermined in accordance with
at least one of bust shape, bust density, and bust volume. By
varying the angles .THETA..sub.1 and .THETA..sub.2, it can be
possible to change the bust appearance, shape, and volume by
changing the cup construction.
[0016] The shaping further comprises at least one of a minimizing
effect, an up-lifting effect and a fuller bust effect. The shaping
may be fully maintained during movement in multiple directions
while at the same time the garment may stay in full contact with
the wearer's body.
[0017] In a non-limiting example of the present invention, the
fabrics have elastomeric properties and isotropic hysteresis
values. By using these types of fabrics, the present invention may
provide softer and suppler body shaping garments with an even
greater level of comfort and shaping ability than those produced by
the known methods.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0018] The invention can be described in greater detail with the
aid of the following drawings.
[0019] FIG. 1 shows a rear view of an exemplary brassiere
construction of the present invention in an unbanded underwire
brassiere silhouette;
[0020] FIG. 2 shows a rear view of an exemplary brassiere cup
design for a multiple layer "plus (+)" orientation of the inner
fabric layer and outer fabric layer of the cups of the brassiere
construction of FIG. 1;
[0021] FIG. 3 shows an alternate rear view of an exemplary
brassiere cup design for a multiple layer "cross (X)" orientation
of the inner fabric layer and outer fabric layer of the cups of the
brassiere construction of FIG. 1;
[0022] FIG. 4 shows a partial cross-section in exploded view of the
brassiere cup design taken along line 4-4 of FIG. 2;
[0023] FIG. 5 shows stress/strain curves for conventional spandex
fiber and LYCRA.RTM. T902C spandex elastomeric fiber which can be
used to make fabric for garments of the present invention;
[0024] FIG. 6 shows an example of an unwired soft cup
brassiere;
[0025] FIG. 7 shows an example of a banded underwire brassiere;
[0026] FIG. 8 shows an example of a hidden underwire brassiere;
[0027] FIG. 9 shows an example of a demi cup underwire; and
[0028] FIG. 10 shows an example of a triangle soft cup minimal
bra.
[0029] FIG. 11 shows brassiere and model positions for an "Arms
Normal" test;
[0030] FIG. 12 shows brassiere and model positions for an "Arms
Laterally Extended" test;
[0031] FIG. 13 shows brassiere and model positions for an "Arms Up"
test;
[0032] FIG. 14 shows brassiere and model positions for an "Arms
Left to Right" test;
[0033] FIG. 15 shows a graph comparing the volume distribution of
the body including the breast in a brassiere cup for the brassiere
constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Normal" position;
[0034] FIG. 16 shows a graph comparing the volume distribution of
the body including the breast in a brassiere cup for the brassiere
constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Laterally Extended"
position; and
[0035] FIG. 17 shows a graph comparing the volume distribution of
the body including the breast in a brassiere cup for the brassiere
constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Up" position;
[0036] FIG. 18 shows a graph comparing the volume distribution of
the body including the breast in a brassiere cup for the brassiere
constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Left to Right"
position;
[0037] FIG. 19 shows a graph comparing the true circumference of
the body including the breast in a brassiere cup for the brassiere
constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Normal" position;
[0038] FIG. 20 shows a graph comparing the true circumference of
the body including the breast in a brassiere cup for the brassiere
constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Laterally Extended"
position; and
[0039] FIG. 21 shows a graph comparing the true circumference of
the body including the breast in a brassiere cup for the brassiere
constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Up" position.
[0040] FIG. 22 shows a graph comparing the average pressure under
the bust in a brassiere cup for a brassiere construction when the
wearer is bending at the waist.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0041] The present invention is a system for the construction of a
body-shaping garment with integrated shaping ability provided by
the fabric employed in the cups and wings of a brassiere design. In
particular, the combination of (a) the variable shaping ability of
the fabric layers and (b) the design of the brassiere cup of the
present invention produces a more comfortable fit for the cup and
wing sections of brassieres. In order to ensure that garments of
the present invention have 3D shaping ability, minimal slippage on
the body, and maximum wearer comfort, the fabrics used to make such
garments may have particular isotropic hysteresis properties.
[0042] More specifically, the present invention provides for the
construction of brassiere cups for more comfortably shaping and
controlling the breast tissue. In the present invention, fabrics
with elastomeric or stretchable properties form the brassiere cup.
Fabric orientation is defined by a coordinate system with axes X-X'
and Y-Y' defined as follows. The X-X' axis is the direction of
maximum stretch of the fabric. For a warp knitted fabric, this is
usually the warp direction. The Y-Y' axis is the direction
perpendicular to the X-X'axis. The warp and weft directions of an
inner fabric layer are oriented at an angle .THETA..sub.1 in the
range of 15 degrees to 165 degrees relative to the warp and weft
direction of an outer fabric layer. This orientation of the inner
and outer fabric layers relative to each other, along with the
material properties of the fabric layers, may provide a brassiere
cup with three dimensional shaping ability. This shaping ability
can be applied to the breast tissue to provide comfort, shaping
ability and support for the wearer.
[0043] Further, the present invention also may provide the ability
to shape breast tissue in multiple brassiere silhouettes. Examples
of possible brassiere silhouettes to which the present invention
may be applied include, but are not limited to, unbanded underwire,
banded underwire, hidden underwire, demi-cup underwire, soft cup
invisible support (i.e., no underwire), and triangle soft cup
minimal bra.
[0044] Furthermore, the brassiere construction of the present
invention finds application in at least brassiere sizes up to and
including 44DD, for example up to and including 40D. Though larger
size brassieres typically are made with raschel warp knits, fabric
constructions that can be used with the system and brassiere cup
design of the present invention may comprise, but are not limited
to, at least tricot warp knits, raschel warp knits, circular knits,
lace, flat knits, wovens, and nonwoven fabrics that are at least
capable of stretching in multiple directions. Though these fabrics
may have lower modulus than typical raschel warp knit fabrics such
as those made with LYCRA.RTM. T902C spandex, they can be employed
with the present invention to improve comfort, shaping and
control.
[0045] The exemplary drawing of FIG. 1 shows a first brassiere
construction of the present invention. In particular, FIG. 1 shows
a rear view of an exemplary embodiment of the present invention of
a brassiere 1 at least comprising: cups 3, 5, side panels or wings
7, 13 and shoulder straps 11, 15. FIG. 1 shows an inner side of the
brassiere intended to be in contact with a wearer's skin when the
brassiere is worn.
[0046] The design of the left cup 3 is the mirror image of the
right cup 5. The design of the cups 3, 5 will be shown and
discussed in more detail in FIG. 2 and FIG. 3. The cups 3, 5 may
further comprise an underwire (not shown) contained in a sheath 29
that surrounds such underwire. Each of the cups 3, 5 has an inner
fabric layer 4 and an outer fabric layer 6. The inner fabric layer
4 and outer fabric layer 6 are made of a fabric that is at least
stretchable in multiple directions and demonstrates nearly
isotropic hysteresis. Alternately, the cups 3, 5 may be joined to
the wings as a continuous piece of fabric.
[0047] Each of the wings 7, 13 shown in FIG. 1 may taper to
narrower portions 23, 25 as the wings/panels extend away from the
cups toward the distal ends thereof. Alternatively, the
wings/panels 7, 13 may retain the same width throughout their
length from the proximal portion adjacent to the cups 3, 5 to the
distal ends. The wings 7, 13 may further comprise multiple layers
of fabric, or fabric with different mechanical properties along the
warp and weft directions.
[0048] The shoulder straps 11, 15 shown in FIG. 1 may further
comprise at least one of an elastic and a non-elastic portion. The
shoulder straps 11, 15 may further comprise padding (not shown) on
the surface that contacts the skin of the wearer. In addition, the
shoulder straps 11, 15 shown in FIG. 1 may further comprise means
for adjusting the length (not shown) of the shoulder straps 11, 15.
The means for adjusting the length of a shoulder strap may
comprise, but is not limited to, a multiple section clasp, clip or
the like through which the shoulder strap 11, 15 may be looped in
order to adjust the overall length of the shoulder strap.
[0049] The brassiere 1 of FIG. 1 further comprises a left cup 3, a
left wing part 7, a bridge part 9, a left shoulder strap 11, a
right cup 5, a right wing part 13, a right shoulder strap 15, a
fastener 17 and a mating fastener or hook band 19. The left cup 3
is attached to the left wing part 7, the bridge 9 and the left
shoulder strap 11. The left shoulder strap 11 is connected at one
end to a distal end of the left wing part 7 and at the other end to
the left cup 3. The right shoulder strap 15 is connected at one end
to a distal end of the right wing part 13 and at the other end to
the right cup 5. Other arrangements at the back of the brassiere
can be possible. The wing parts 7, 13 of the brassiere 1 are
interconnected by connecting one or more fasteners 21 (such as
hooks) on tape 19 to the mating fastener (not shown) on band 17.
The fastener 17 may further comprise at least one of a hook tape
and an eye tape or the like to enable interconnection with the hook
band 19.
[0050] The brassiere 1 of FIG. 1 may further comprise an underwire
(not shown) that is introduced into a sheath 29 that consists of
fabric and provides padding of the underwire. The sheath 29 is sewn
or otherwise attached to at least one of the cups 3, 5, wings 7, 13
and/or the bridge 9 over at least part of their respective lengths
and provides additional support. The underwire limits the cups 3, 5
and wings 7, 13 at the lower and upper edges and the side edges.
For example, the underwire exhibits a flattened cross section
profile that does not have sharp or disturbing corners and edges
that could be felt by the wearer and make the brassiere 1
uncomfortable. The cups in the brassiere of FIG. 1 may be
molded.
[0051] FIG. 2 shows an exemplary brassiere cup design for an
alternate or multiple layer "plus (+)" orientation of the inner
fabric layer and outer fabric layer of the cups of the brassiere
construction. In particular, as shown in FIG. 2, the inner fabric
layer 4 has a predetermined four-sided peripheral shape with a
sinusoidal first edge 30, a convex second edge 42, a concave third
edge 40 and a straight fourth edge 36. The predetermined shape can
give vertical lateral lift in varying directions. The inner fabric
layer 4 is located beneath the outer fabric layer 6 in a brassiere
construction. The inner fabric layer 4 shown in FIG. 2 has a
standard orientation of a horizontal X.sub.4-X.sub.4'-axis 38 and
vertical Y.sub.4-Y.sub.4'-axis 39. Alternatively, the
X.sub.4-X.sub.4' axis can be vertical and the Y.sub.4-Y.sub.4' axis
can be horizontal. The X.sub.4-X.sub.4' and Y.sub.4-Y.sub.4'-axes
38, 39 in FIG. 2 correspond to the warp and weft directions,
respectively, on the fabric forming the inner fabric layer 4. Note
that the shapes for the brassiere cups in FIG. 2 and FIG. 3 are
exemplary only for the brassiere shown in FIG. 1. Other bra designs
and sizes will warrant different cup shapes.
[0052] The outer fabric layer 6 has a predetermined peripheral
shape which is equivalent to the inner fabric layer 4. The outer
fabric layer 6 is located on top of the inner fabric layer 4. The
outer fabric layer 6 has a vertical axis X.sub.6-X.sub.6'-axis 48
and a horizontal Y.sub.6-Y.sub.6'-axis 46. The horizontal
Y.sub.6-Y.sub.6'-axis 46 is rotated +/-90 degrees relative to the
Y.sub.4-Y.sub.4'-axis 39 of the inner fabric layer 4. The
combination of relative orientation of the fabric layer axes and
the angle between the layers and the garment axes can contribute to
integrated three-dimensional (3D) shaping ability of the
garment.
[0053] Warp direction of a knit fabric is the length or machine
direction of the fabric. The machine direction is the direction in
which the fabric comes off the machine. In warp knitting, the yarns
are knit along the length of the fabric. In weft knitting, the
yarns are knit across the fabric in the weft direction or the cross
direction. In general terms, the warp direction refers to the
length of a fabric. The weft direction refers to the width of a
fabric. The X-X' axis represents the warp direction. The Y-Y' axis
refers to the weft direction (or cross) direction of the fabric.
Alternately, the warp and weft directions may refer to the Y-Y' and
X-X' axes respectively. LYCRA.RTM. spandex fiber typically is knit
as bare yarn in the weft direction of the fabric for weft knits and
in the warp direction for warp knit fabrics. The methods to make
these fabrics are well known to those of ordinary skill in the
art.
[0054] The inner and outer fabric layers 4, 6 are sewn together at
the edges prior to sewing to ease the garment sewing process. The
shapes of the inner and outer layers are a function of design and
desired fit. The layers are joined using for example a single
needle, ZigZag, or Overlock stitch. Padding between the fabric
layers 4, 6 may or may not be used. In the exemplary garment in
FIG. 1, no padding was used.
[0055] The garment in FIG. 1 was constructed of warp knit fabrics
containing LYCRA.RTM. T902C spandex and nylon (commercially
available from Penn Asia Co. Ltd. of Samutprakarn, Thailand) molded
on a bullet post-molding machine (commercially available from
Optotexform of Wolfegg, Germany). The molded cup was formed by
heating the cup and forcing a heated rounded cylinder mold (bullet)
into the fabric for a desired amount of time at a temperature
causing permanent deformation of the fabric. Techniques for molding
fabric for brassiere cups are well known to those skilled in the
art. The bullet mold temperature was 204.degree. C. with a cavity
temperature of 190.degree. C. and dwell time of 55 seconds. Two
mold sizes were used for D cups a 4.5 inch diameter mold was used.
For B cups a 3.5 inch mold diameter was used. Three sizes of bras
were made, 34B, 34D, and 40D. The data reported are for a size 34B
bra.
[0056] A first angle .THETA..sub.11 is defined as the angle between
the X.sub.4-X'.sub.4 axis 38 and X.sub.6-X'.sub.6 axis 48 (see FIG.
2). For example, in the embodiment shown in FIG. 2 .THETA..sub.1 is
about 90 degrees. A second angle .THETA..sub.2 is defined as the
angle between the X.sub.6 axis in the outer fabric layer and a
horizontal direction of the garment X.sub.g (see FIG. 1). For
example, in the embodiment shown in FIG. 1, .THETA..sub.2 is about
90 degrees. By varying the angles .THETA..sub.1 and .THETA..sub.2,
in the cup construction it may be possible to change the bust
appearance, shape, and volume. The angle .THETA..sub.1 can be from
about 15 to about 165 degrees, for example from about 15 to about
90 degrees. The angle .THETA..sub.2 can be from about 0 to about
180 degrees, for example 90 degrees, or for example 45 degrees. The
shaping ability of a garment will be influenced by the angles
.THETA..sub.1 and .THETA..sub.2 in the garment design. Optimal
angles .THETA..sub.1 and .THETA..sub.2 should be chosen carefully
to achieve the desired shaping.
[0057] FIG. 3 shows an exemplary brassiere cup design for another
alternate or a multiple layer "cross (X)" orientation of the inner
fabric layer 4 and outer fabric layer 6 of the cups of the
brassiere construction. In particular, as shown in FIG. 3, the
inner fabric layer 4 has the same predetermined shape as shown in
FIG. 2, and is located beneath the outer fabric layer 6. The inner
fabric layer 4 shown in FIG. 3 has an orientation with a vertical
X.sub.4-X.sub.4'-axis 38 and horizontal Y.sub.4-Y.sub.4'-axis 39
each of which is rotated 45 degrees relative to the standard
orientation discussed above with respect to FIG. 2. Alternatively,
the X.sub.4-X.sub.4' axis 38 can be horizontal and the
Y.sub.4-Y.sub.4'axis 39 can be vertical. In addition, the outer
fabric layer 6 is has the same predetermined shape as shown in FIG.
2, and is located on top of or over the inner fabric layer 4. The
outer fabric layer 6 has a vertical Y.sub.6-Y.sub.6' axis 48 that
is rotated +/-90 degrees relative to the Y.sub.4-Y.sub.4'-axis 39
of the inner fabric layer 4. This orientation of fabric layer 6
over fabric layer 4, as shown in FIG. 3, with Y-Y' axes 39, 48
rotated, as compared to the orientation shown in FIG. 2, provides
the "X" orientation. In the embodiment shown in FIG. 3,
.THETA..sub.1 is about 90 degrees and .THETA..sub.2 is about 45
degrees.
[0058] FIG. 4 shows an expanded cross-sectional view of the
brassiere cup design of FIG. 2. Inner fabric layer 4 is shown
spaced apart from outer fabric layer 6. In a brassiere
construction, such layers may be adjacent to one another, but still
will have freedom of stretch and recovery movement to take
advantage of the stretch power and rotated orientation as described
with reference to FIG. 2 and FIG. 3.
[0059] The fabric layers 4, 6 comprise at least one of an
elastomeric fabric or at least a fabric stretchable in multiple
directions. For example, layers 4, 6 of the brassiere design
comprise LYCRA.RTM. T902C spandex, a copolyether-based, clear
spandex with high elongation and uniquely flat stress/strain
behavior. The fabric of the layers 4 and 6 may have the isotropic
hysteresis property described by in the specification. In order to
ensure that garments of the present invention have 3D shaping
ability, minimal slippage on the body, and maximum wearer comfort,
the fabrics used to make such garments may have particular
isotropic hysteresis properties.
[0060] Layers 4, 6 of the brassiere 1 may comprise, but are not
limited to, circular knit, tricot warp knit, raschel warp knit,
lace, flat knit and nonwoven fabric that are at least capable of
stretching in more than one direction. Though these fabrics may
have lower holding power and elasticity modulus than elastomeric
fabrics in the Examples, such as fabrics made with LYCRA.RTM. T902C
spandex, they can be employed with the present invention to improve
comfort, shaping and support as long as the particular isotropic
hysteresis properties are maintained. As an additional alternative,
the fabric layers 4, 6 may be a combination of elastomeric and/or
stretchable fabrics that produce the desired result of improved
shaping, comfort and support to the body of the wearer of the
garment.
[0061] The layers 4, 6 of the bra cup of the present invention may
comprise multiple layers of laminated material. For example, the
cup may comprise a layer of a single fabric, or a layer may
comprise one or more layers of fabric joined with an adhesive. The
bra cup also may comprise more than two layers of fabric. In
certain designs, it is desirable and perhaps even necessary to
provide more than two and up to five layers of fabric. For example,
in a demi cup brassiere of FIG. 9, additional layers can be used to
provide the breast shaping and lifting. Techniques for bra design
and use of multiple, layers are familiar to those skilled in the
art.
[0062] The layers of the bra cup may be molded. For example the cup
may be molded at about 200.degree. C. for about one minute. A
bullet or sculpture mold may be used, for example a bullet mold may
be used to form the desired cup shape. Done properly, molding does
not limit the shaping ability of the garment, but complements the
bra design and fabric properties for optimal shaping. Techniques
for bra molding are familiar to those skilled in the art of
brassiere garment making.
[0063] Though conventional spandex has been used in brassiere
constructions, the fabric layers 4, 6 of the present invention have
different characteristics from those of conventional spandex
fabrics. These differences are illustrated in the graph of FIG. 5,
which describes fiber mechanical properties. In particular, FIG. 5
shows the stress/strain hysteresis curves for conventional spandex
fiber and for LYCRA.RTM. T902C spandex fiber, which fibers can be
used to make fabrics used in garments of the present invention. The
top-line of each curve represents the force required to stretch or
elongate the fiber (i.e., the load force). The bottom line of each
curve represents the recovery (i.e., the unload force) the fiber
exerts at a given elongation. The unload force is always lower than
the load force because of a phenomenon known as "stress decay." The
area inside the stress/strain curve is the hysteresis. The larger
the difference between the load and unload forces, the greater the
hysteresis.
[0064] FIG. 5 shows that less force is required to stretch the
elastomeric fiber which can be used to make fabrics used in
garments of the present invention than conventional spandex fiber.
In addition, due to the low hysteresis of the elastomeric fiber as
shown in FIG. 5, the recovery power of the fabric layers made with
such a fiber is greater throughout the donning and wear regions. As
a result of the low force characteristic of the fabric layer
material, the wearer experiences little or no perceptible
resistance to stretch movements. As a result of the low hysteresis
characteristic of the fabric layer material, the fabric quickly
recovers its shape and closely conforms to the body of the wearer.
That is, the garment of the present invention may conform and may
maintain contact with the body throughout a wide range of movements
by the wearer. Additionally, the garment of the present invention
may avoid slipping or sliding on the wearer's body. As a result,
the garment may maintain the desired shaping during movement and
wear.
[0065] A non-limiting example of an elastomeric fabric that is
applicable to the present invention is fabric containing LYCRA.RTM.
T902C spandex. LYCRA.RTM. T902C is a co-polyether-based, clear
spandex with high elongation and relatively flat stress/strain
behavior. Use of LYCRA.RTM. T902C spandex-containing garments of
the present invention may provide a brassiere cup that fits firmly
and closely conforms to the body of the wearer. As a result, the
present invention may provide improved comfort as compared known
brassiere constructions made with conventional elastomers or other
materials.
[0066] In order to ensure that garments of the present invention
have 3D shaping ability, minimal slippage on the body, and maximum
wearer comfort, the fabrics used to make such garments may have
particular isotropic hysteresis properties. Fabrics that can be
used for the garment of the present invention are described below.
Instron experiments were used to determine the fabric hysteresis
property that will give the desired effect in the garment of the
present invention. The experiments were carried out for each fabric
as follows: 1) Length-Length (L&L) two pieces cut with the warp
direction on the long edge were placed directly on top of each
other and tested on the Instron; 2) Width-Width (W&W) two
pieces cut with the weft direction on the long edge of the fabric
were placed directly on top of each other and tested on the
Instron; and 3) Length-Width (L&W) one piece cut along the warp
direction of the fabric and a second piece cut along the weft
direction were placed directly on top of each other and tested on
the Instron. The hysteresis calculated with this method is shown
for three fabrics in Table 1. The low variance of the three
measurement techniques defines the fabrics that are suitable in
garments of the invention. The same low variance between L&L,
W&W and L&W results holds for Fabric A under a variety of
different strain rates at the Instron and different initial
conditions: 1) Elongations of 30% (i.e., from 10 cm to 13 cm
distance),); 2) Instron strain rate of 500 mm/min instead of 900
mm/min; and 3) Elongating the fabric by 20% holding it there for 5
min and then cycling several (i.e., more than 5) times by 20%.
[0067] Garments of the present invention comprise a fabric
demonstrating the result S for the experiment in L-L, W-W and L-W
such as: S = std .function. ( H L & .times. L , H W &
.times. W , H L & .times. W ) mean .function. ( H L &
.times. L , H W & .times. W , H L & .times. W ) .times. 100
.times. % .ltoreq. 10 .times. % , ##EQU2## can be used in the
present invention. Nearly isotropic hysteresis is defined as having
an S value to fit the above equation. S is defined as the standard
deviation between the three hysteresis data points (H.sub.L&L,
H.sub.W&W, and H.sub.L&W). H.sub.L&L is defined as the
hysteresis measured when two layers of fabric cut along the length
are tested. H.sub.W&W is defined as the hysteresis measured
when two layers of fabric cut along the width are tested.
H.sub.L&W is defined as the hysteresis measured when two layers
of fabric one cut along the length and the second cut along the
width are tested in the method described in the Example
section.
[0068] As shown in the tests results given below, when the present
invention utilizes elastomeric fabrics made with fibers like
LYCRA.RTM.T902C spandex or other stretchable fabrics, the shaping
ability and comfort provided to the wearer are improved over known
fabrics and brassiere constructions.
[0069] FIG. 6 to FIG. 14 schematically shows a model wearing
various brassieres according to the invention. In particular, FIG.
6 to FIG. 10, show non-limiting examples of various brassiere
silhouettes that can be implemented with the present invention.
FIG. 6 shows an example of an unwired soft cup brassiere. FIG. 7
shows an example of a banded underwire brassiere. FIG. 8 shows an
example of a hidden underwire brassiere. FIG. 9 shows an example of
a demi cup underwire brassiere. FIG. 10 shows an example of a
triangle soft cup minimal brassiere.
[0070] Each of FIG. 11 to FIG. 14 represents various brassiere and
model positions to demonstrate support and "shaping ability". FIG.
11 shows the brassiere and model positions for the "Arms Normal"
tests. FIG. 12 shows the brassiere and model positions for the
"Arms Laterally Extended" tests. FIG. 13 shows the brassiere and
model positions for the "Arms Up" tests. FIG. 14 shows the
brassiere and model positions for the "Arms Left to Right"
tests.
[0071] The body postures shown in FIG. 11 to FIG. 14 attempt to
rearrange the bust by moving the body along its different anatomic
axes. These movements, in combination with pressure sensitive
equipment and body scans, scope out the contact between bust and
brassiere and the overall bust shaping. In the "Arms Normal"
posture of FIG. 11, the hands rest at the waist and the wearer
breathes naturally. This is a neutral posture where the bust is
configured at the absence of movement. In the "Arms Up" posture of
FIG. 12, the whole upper body is pushed upwards resulting in
maximum extension of skin and muscles. This position yields maximum
tendency of the bust to move upwards and tests the contact of bra
and bust in a position of high skin extension. In the "Arms
Extended Laterally" posture of FIG. 13, the bust rearranges along
the plane made by the arms extended laterally. In this posture, the
sensors measure the contact of bra and bust. In the "Arms From Left
to Right" posture of FIG. 14, the body twists up to 90 degrees from
the "Arms Extended Laterally" posture. In this posture, the
rearrangement of the bust inside the bra along the plane made by
the extended arms is combined with a twisting effect. As such, the
contact of the bra to bust as well as the overall bust shaping is
severely tested.
[0072] The pressures exerted by the garment on the body were
measured and evaluated to determine fit and comfort properties of
the test garments. A 3-D Body Scanner (model VITUS PRO commercially
available from Vitronic of Wiesbaden, Germany) has 16 3-D cameras
and 4 color cameras and produces body scan files which can be
processed by ScanWorX 3D Body Scanner software (commercially
available from Human Solutions of Troy, Mich.). A 3D Pressure
system (commercially available from TekScan Inc. of Boston, Mass.)
utilizes film like pressure sensors to assess the pressure between
two surfaces. This film sensor is inserted between the wearer's
bust and the bra. The 3D time-dependent pressure profile in FIG. 22
is recorded on a computer as the wearer goes through a routine of
exercises from standing at rest and touching the toes.
[0073] The 3D Body Scanner scans the external surface or shape of
the body. Volume distribution in FIG. 15 to FIG. 19 is the plot of
differential volume (i.e., cross-section surface area) versus
height. At any height from the 3D scan one can calculate the
surface area of the slice of the body at that height. From the same
slice one can calculate the true and tape circumferences. The true
circumference is the true perimeter of the slice, whereas the tape
circumference is the circumference that the slice would have if one
was measuring it using a flexible tape, FIG. 20 to FIG. 21.
[0074] FIG. 15 shows a graph comparing the volume distribution of
brassiere constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Normal"
position shown in FIG. 11. The graph of FIG. 15 compares the
performance of a garment made with conventional spandex and a
garment of the present invention when using brassiere constructions
with both the "plus (+)" and "cross (X)" orientation of the fabric
layers of the cup. Comparisons were made directly between "+" and
"X" constructions in these comparative garments. The graph in FIG.
15 indicates that the garment of the present invention, using both
the "+" and "X" constructions, provided more lift (i.e., shaping
ability) for the breast than did the garment made with conventional
spandex using the same brassiere construction. This additional lift
indicates that the brassiere constructions using the garment of the
present invention can be better at following the movement of the
breasts. By varying the angles .THETA..sub.1 and .THETA..sub.2
(e.g., as described above), it may be possible to change the bust
appearance, shape, and volume by changing the cup construction.
[0075] FIG. 16 shows a graph comparing the volume distribution of
brassiere constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Laterally
Extended" position shown in FIG. 12. The graph of FIG. 16 compares
the performance of a garment made with conventional spandex and a
garment of the present invention when using brassiere constructions
with both the "plus (+)" and "cross (X)" orientation of the fabric
layers of the cup. Comparisons were made directly between "+" or
"X" constructions in these comparative garments. The graph in FIG.
16 indicates that the garment of the present invention, using both
the "+" and "X" brassiere constructions, provided more shaping
ability in terms of lift than did the garment made with
conventional spandex using the same brassiere construction. This
additional lift indicates that the brassiere constructions using
the garment of the present invention are better at following the
movement of the breasts.
[0076] FIG. 17 shows a graph comparing the volume distribution of
brassiere constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Up"
position shown in FIG. 13. The graph of FIG. 17 compares the
performance of a garment made with conventional spandex and a
garment of the present invention when using brassiere constructions
with both the "plus (+)" and "cross (X)" orientation of the fabric
layers of the cup. Comparisons were made directly between "+" and
"X" constructions in these comparative garments. The graph in FIG.
17 indicates that the garment of the present invention, using both
the "+" and "X" brassiere constructions, has a reduced volume than
the garment made with conventional spandex using the same brassiere
constructions at a given height. This reduced volume indicates that
the brassiere constructions using the garment of the present
invention are better at following the movement of the breasts when
the wearer is in the "Arms Up" position.
[0077] FIG. 18 shows a graph comparing the volume distribution of
brassiere constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Left to
Right" position shown in FIG. 14. The graph of FIG. 18 compares the
performance of a garment made with conventional spandex and a
garment of the present invention when using brassiere constructions
with both the "plus (+)" and "cross (X)" orientation of the fabric
layers of the cup. Comparisons were made directly between "+" and
"X" constructions in these comparative garments. The graph in FIG.
18 indicates that the garment of the present invention, using both
"+" and "X" brassiere constructions, had a reduced volume as
compared to the garment made with conventional spandex using both
the "+" and "X" brassiere constructions at a given height. This
reduced volume for the garment of the present invention indicates
the garment is better at following the movement of the breasts than
the garment with conventional spandex when the wearer is in the
"Arms Left to Right" position.
[0078] FIG. 19 shows a graph comparing the true circumference of
brassiere constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Normal"
position shown in FIG. 11. The graph of FIG. 19 compares the
performance of a garment made with conventional spandex and a
garment of the present invention when using brassiere constructions
with both the "plus (+)" and "cross (X)" orientation of the fabric
layers of the cup. Comparisons were made directly between "+" and
"X" constructions in these comparative garments. The graph in FIG.
19 indicates that the garment of the present invention, using both
the "+" and "X" constructions, provides more circumference (i.e.,
better lift and fuller bust) at a given height for the breast than
the garment made with conventional spandex using the same brassiere
constructions. This additional circumference indicates that the
brassiere constructions using the garment of the present invention
are better than garments made with conventional spandex at
following the movement of the breasts.
[0079] FIG. 20 shows a graph comparing the true circumference of
brassiere constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Laterally
Extended" position shown in FIG. 12. The graph of FIG. 20 compares
the performance of a garment made with conventional spandex and a
garment of the present invention when using brassiere constructions
with both the "plus (+)" and "cross (X)" orientation of the fabric
layers of the cup. Comparisons were made directly between "+" and
"X" constructions in these comparative garments. The graph in FIG.
20 indicates that the garment of the present invention spandex,
using both the "+" and "X" brassiere constructions, provides better
lift and fuller bust in terms of true circumference at a given
height than the garment made with conventional spandex using the
same brassiere constructions. This circumference indicates that the
brassiere constructions using the garment of the present invention
are better at following the movement of the breasts.
[0080] FIG. 21 shows a graph comparing the true circumference of
brassiere constructions when the wearer is in the "Arms Up"
position shown in FIG. 13. The graph of FIG. 21 compares the
performance of a garment made with conventional spandex and a
garment of the present invention when using brassiere constructions
with both the "plus (+)" and "cross (X)" orientation of the fabric
layers of the cup. Comparisons were made directly between "+" and
"X" constructions in these comparative garments. The graph in FIG.
21 indicates that the garment of the present invention, using both
the "+" and "X" brassiere constructions, has a reduced
circumference as compared than the garment made with conventional
spandex using the same brassiere constructions at a given height.
This reduced circumference indicates that the brassiere
constructions using the garment of the present invention are better
at following the movement of the breasts when the wearer is in the
"Arms Up" position.
[0081] FIG. 22 shows a graph comparing the average pressure under
the bust in a brassiere cup for brassiere construction (+) when the
wearer is exercising starting from a standing position and bending
at the waist touching the toes. This exercise is repeated four
times. During bending, the pressure variation is 4-5 times larger
for the garment made with conventional spandex compared to the
garment of the present invention. This is demonstrated in FIG. 22
where the average underbust pressure (average of 40 sensels sampled
at frequency of 10 Hz) is plotted against time. In FIG. 22, the
large pressure swings for the garment made with conventional
spandex illustrate a loss of contact between the bust and the
garment. Whereas the smaller pressure variations measured for the
garment of the present invention illustrate that the loss contact
between the garment and the bust is minimal. This means that the
brassiere made according to the present invention remains in
position with respect to the bust.
[0082] In summary, the above graphs (i.e., FIG. 15 to FIG. 22)
provide experimental evidence confirming the improved performance
of low bust compression and nearly isotropic hysteresis fabrics,
for example LYCRA.RTM. T902C spandex fabrics, in the brassiere
construction and cup design in the garment of the present
invention. This construction and design provides improved comfort,
shaping and support for body shaping garments such as brassieres,
shape-wear and swim suits. The garments of the present invention
may better maintain contact with the bust and torso and provide
desired shaping with minimal slippage and maximum wearer comfort
during the movements described above, as demonstrated by both
scanner and pressure results.
EXAMPLES
Analytical Methods
[0083] Hysteresis measured on Instron Tensiometer: A Merlin Instron
(model 5500R, commercially available from Instron in Norwood,
Mass.) was used with clamps allowing for a 5 cm width fabric to be
attached. The clamps were placed at an initial distance of 10 cm.
Fabric pieces (approximately 20 cm by 5 cm) were cut along first
the length (warp) and then the width (weft) directions. After being
cut, the fabric samples were left to rest for about 20 minutes. In
each experiment the strain rate was set to 900 mm/min and the
extension was carried out from 0 to 100% of the initial clamps
distance of 10 cm and then back to 0%. The two layered fabric
sample was positioned between the clamps and extended from 10 to 20
cm and then back to 10 cm. This process (cycle) was repeated more
than 5 times to obtain results that do not change from one cycle to
the next. The last cycle was used to extract all relevant dynamic
and mechanical information. Results were recorded in the standard
Instron RAW file and then processed using standard mathematical
software such as Matlab (commercially available from Mathworks in
Natick, Mass.). The Instron Load and Unload curves of the last
cycle were then fitted using least squares cubic splines. Using the
fitted splines representation of the Load and Unload curves the
Hysteresis of the curve can be calculated as follows: Hysteresis =
.intg. 0 0.1 .times. ( F Load - F Unload ) .times. d L ##EQU3##
where 0 and 0.1 are in m and represent the fabric extension during
the experiment and F.sub.load and F.sub.unload are the fitted cubic
least squares splines for the load and unload curves of the last
cycle. In the above formula, L is in m and F is in N, while
Hysteresis is in J.
Examples
[0084] TABLE-US-00001 Hysteresis [J] S = Std dev/ Fabric L&L
W&W L&W mean *100% 1A 0.1139 0.1121 0.1151 1.33 1C 0.1796
0.0804 0.1204 39.40 2C 0.0982 0.1555 0.1259 22.60
[0085] The last column of the table, standard deviation (S),
provides a means to look at the variation of the three results:
L&L, W&W, and L&W for each fabric. It is the standard
deviation of the 3 measurements divided by the mean and then
multiplied by 100%.
[0086] Fabric 1A (commercially available from Penn Asia, Thailand)
was made with Lycra.RTM. T902C spandex and the S value was within
the limits for the invention. Fabric 1C (commercially available
from H. Warshow and Sons, Inc., Milton, Pa.) was made with
Lycra.RTM. T162B spandex and the S value is too high for the
invention. Fabric 2C (commercially available from Ruey Tay, Taipei,
Taiwan) was made with Lycra.RTM. T162C spandex and the S value is
too high for the invention.
[0087] The foregoing description illustrates and describes the
present invention. Additionally, the disclosure shows and describes
only the embodiments of the invention, but as mentioned above, it
is to be understood that the invention is capable of use in various
other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable
of changes or modifications within the scope of the concept of the
invention as expressed herein, commensurate with the above
teachings and/or skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The
embodiments described herein above are further intended to explain
best modes known of practicing the invention and to enable others
skilled in the art to utilize the invention in such or other
embodiments and with the various modifications required by the
particular applications or uses of the invention. Accordingly, the
description is not intended to limit the invention to the form or
application disclosed herein. Also, it is intended that the
appended claims be construed to include alternative
embodiments.
* * * * *