U.S. patent application number 11/464902 was filed with the patent office on 2007-02-22 for method for relaxing hair.
This patent application is currently assigned to Conopco, Inc., d/b/a UNILEVER, Conopco, Inc., d/b/a UNILEVER. Invention is credited to Trefor A. EVANS, Margie FOWLER, Monica MEDEIROS (nee BISPO), Paul H. NEILL.
Application Number | 20070041921 11/464902 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 37903699 |
Filed Date | 2007-02-22 |
United States Patent
Application |
20070041921 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
NEILL; Paul H. ; et
al. |
February 22, 2007 |
METHOD FOR RELAXING HAIR
Abstract
A method of relaxing naturally curly hair that comprises: A)
carrying out a hair treatment session that comprises the steps of:
i) applying to the hair, an alkaline hair relaxer comprising an
active hydroxide, ii) allowing the relaxer to remain on the hair
for a total period of less than about 10 minutes; iii) removing the
relaxer from the hair; and B) repeating the treatment session
described in part (A) to attain a desired degree of hair
relaxation, with the interval between individual treatment sessions
ranging from about 3 to about 20 days.
Inventors: |
NEILL; Paul H.; (Oak Brook,
IL) ; FOWLER; Margie; (Elgin, IL) ; MEDEIROS
(nee BISPO); Monica; (Campinas SP CEP 13031-000, BR)
; EVANS; Trefor A.; (Lombard, IL) |
Correspondence
Address: |
UNILEVER INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY GROUP
700 SYLVAN AVENUE,
BLDG C2 SOUTH
ENGLEWOOD CLIFFS
NJ
07632-3100
US
|
Assignee: |
Conopco, Inc., d/b/a
UNILEVER
|
Family ID: |
37903699 |
Appl. No.: |
11/464902 |
Filed: |
August 16, 2006 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
|
|
|
|
|
|
Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
60709400 |
Aug 18, 2005 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.2 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/19 20130101; A61K
8/43 20130101; A61Q 5/04 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/070.2 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/19 20070101
A61K008/19 |
Claims
1. A method of relaxing naturally curly hair that comprises: A)
carrying out a hair treatment session that comprises the steps of:
i) applying to the hair, an alkaline hair relaxer comprising an
active hydroxide, ii) allowing the relaxer to remain on the hair
for a total period of less than about 10 minutes; iii) removing the
relaxer from the hair; and B) repeating the treatment session
described in part (A) to attain a desired degree of hair
relaxation, with the interval between individual treatment sessions
ranging from about 3 to about 20 days.
2. A method as described in claim 1, wherein after a desired degree
of relaxation is attained, the treatment session described in part
(A) is repeated, as needed, to maintain ease of styling and a
relaxed hair appearance.
3. A method as described in claim 1, wherein the treatment session
described in part (A) is repeated to maintain the desired degree of
hair relaxation, with the interval between individual treatment
sessions ranging from about 1 to about 2 weeks, after the desired
degree of relaxation has been attained.
4. A method as described in claim 1 wherein following step
(A)(iii), the hair is further treated with a neutralizing
agent.
5. A method as described in claim 1 wherein following step
(A)(iii), the hair is further treated with a conditioning
agent.
6. A method as described in claim 1 wherein the relaxer is allowed
to remain on the hair for a period of up to about 5 minutes.
7. A method as described in claim 1 wherein the interval between
individual treatment sessions ranges from about 5 to about 15
days.
8. A method as described in claim 1 wherein the treatment session
is repeated a minimum of 3 times.
9. A method as described in claim 1 wherein the relaxer is a
lye-type relaxer.
10. A method as described in claim 1 wherein the relaxer is a
no-lye type relaxer.
11. A method as described in claim 1 wherein the relaxer comprises
at least one active hydroxide selected from the group consisting of
sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and
guanidine hydroxide.
12. A method as described in claim 1 wherein the relaxer comprises
sodium hydroxide.
13. A method as described in claim 1 wherein the relaxer comprises
a) at least one reactive hydroxide, b) at least one oleagenous
material, c) at least one C.sub.12-C.sub.22 fatty alcohol and/or a
glycol ether thereof, and d) water.
14. A hair treatment product that comprises, in a single kit: A) a
relaxer composition that provides a source of active hydroxide, B)
optionally, an activator composition, C) optionally, a neutralizing
composition, D) optionally, a conditioning composition, and E)
instructions teaching the use of the kit components in such a
manner that the hair to be straightened is subjected to multiple
treatments of reactive hydroxide, for periods lasting less than
about 10 minutes, with the interval between treatments ranging from
about 3 to about 20 days, until a desired degree of hair relaxation
is attained.
15. A hair treatment product as described in claim 14, wherein the
instructions teach that the interval between treatments ranges from
about 5 to about 15 days, until a desired degree of hair relaxation
is attained.
16. A hair treatment product as described in claim 14, wherein
active hydroxide is generated by the reaction of the relaxer
composition with an activator.
17. A hair treatment product as described in claim 14 wherein the
relaxer composition comprises at least one reactive hydroxide in an
aqueous conditioner base.
18. A hair treatment product as described in claim 17 wherein the
aqueous conditioner base comprises at least one cationic
conditioning agent and at least one fatty material.
Description
[0001] This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional
Application No. 60/1709,400 filed Aug. 18, 2005.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0002] This invention relates to a method for relaxing hair using
an alkaline hair relaxer.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0003] Naturally curly or kinky hair is conventionally relaxed or
straightened through the use of highly alkaline hair relaxers,
i.e., relaxers having a pH of at least about 12, also referred to
as "strong base" relaxers. Typically, these alkaline hair relaxers
derive their chemical activity from active inorganic and/or organic
hydroxides.
[0004] Structurally, hair fibers have an exterior sheath known as
the cuticle and an interior region or core known as the cortex.
Both the core and cuticle are rich in keratin, a complex
polypeptide made-up of numerous amino acids, including the
thiol-containing amino acid cysteine. Cysteine units in the same or
different polypeptide chains can react with one another to form
disulfide (cysteine) linkages. The disulfide linkages form intra-
and inter-chain cross-linkages, thereby altering the structural
configuration of the polypeptide chains. Alkaline hair relaxers
function to attack the keratin disulfide bonds.
[0005] Without wishing to be bound to theory, two reaction
mechanisms have been commonly used to explain the operation of
alkaline relaxers. One mechanism involves a bimolecular
nucleophilic reaction in which the ionic hydroxide attacks the
disulfide linkages directly. The second mechanism involves a
beta-elimination reaction that is initiated by the nucleophilic
attack of hydroxide ion on the hydrogen atom bonded to the carbon
atom that is in a beta-position with respect to the disulfide bond
of the cysteine residue. As described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,800,277,
this beta elimination reaction results in the formation of a
dehydroalanine residue that reacts with either the thiol group of a
cysteine residue or the amino group of an alanine residue to form a
lanthionine or lysinoalinine residue, respectively.
[0006] The longer the treatment with an active-hydroxide containing
relaxer, the greater the number of hydroxide ions that are absorbed
by the hair cortex, and the greater the straightening effect that
is obtained. While treatment times may vary depending upon factors
that include the solubility, source and concentration of the
active-hydroxide relaxer, in the case of naturally curly hair, in
order to remove substantially all curliness and achieve a visibly
straight hair configuration, herein referred to as "permanent"
relaxation or straightening, it is common practice for the relaxer
to remain on the hair for a period of at least about 20 minutes.
Shorter treatment periods, result in lesser amounts of disulfide
linkages being disrupted and the hair is generally not sufficiently
straightened. Unfortunately, owing to its caustic nature, the
longer the treatment with a reactive hydroxide-containing relaxer,
the greater the potential for damage to the hair cuticle and
cortex. This is particularly true of the so-called "lye" type
relaxers.
[0007] Hair relaxer compositions are described in publications that
include the following:
[0008] U.S. Pat. No. 4,324,263 discloses a hair straightening and a
hair curling process. In the process therein described, the relaxer
is a composition preferably formed by reacting in an aqueous medium
at least one water-soluble inorganic hydroxide with at least one
guanidine salt, the anion of which forms a substantially
water-insoluble salt with the cation of the hydroxide. The patent
describes the time of treatment with such relaxer formulations as
normally being within the range of 5-45 minutes, with the time
starting from the first application of the relaxer composition to
the hair. The patent further states that generally "this treatment
time will be at least 10 minutes, and there is no real upper limit
on the time that the composition can remain on the hair, with the
above-noted 45 minute time generally being about the greatest
length of time that is commercially acceptable to end users. It is
greatly preferred to utilize no more than about 30 minutes,
preferably [sic] less than 25 minutes, of treatment time, and more
preferably the treatment time is in the neighborhood of 20
minutes."
[0009] U.S. Pat. No. 4,390,033 discloses a no-base hair relaxer
composition for use under highly alkaline conditions comprising
water having dispersed therein about 3 to about 50 weight percent
oleaginous material, about 7 to about 25 weight percent emulsifier
and about 2 to about 30 weight percent of a lipophilic organically
modified hectorite clay gellant. The patent refers to "no-base"
formulations as "one package systems in which the aqueous and
oleaginous materials are co-emulsified", as distinguished from
"with base" products which are supplied with a separate oleaginous
base that is applied as a protective layer prior to the application
of relaxer. The patent describes the application of the relaxer to
the sectioned hair as taking about 8 minutes, with the total time
for smoothing normally taking from about 5 to about 10 minutes,
depending up the hair length and thickness. In the exemplified
treatment, the relaxer is said to be on the head for about 13 to
about 18 minutes prior to being removed by rinsing with warm
water.
[0010] U.S. Pat. No. 5,376,364 discloses substantially liquid
conditioning activators for no-lye hair relaxer systems. In the
exemplified relaxer treatment, the application of the relaxer to
the sectioned hair is described as taking about 8 minutes, with the
total time for smoothing normally taking from about 5 to about 10
minutes, depending up the hair length and thickness. According to
this description, the relaxer is on the head for about 13 to about
18 or about 20 minutes prior to being removed by rinsing with warm
water.
[0011] U.S. Pat. No. 5,476,650 discloses hair relaxer compositions
"used in high alkaline conditions comprising at lease [sic] one
active hair relaxer ingredient, moisturizers, emollients, and
emulsifier, with polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride
included in the formula." In Example III, the patent describes a
treatment wherein the relaxer mixture is left on the hair for a
period of between 10 to 28 minutes, depending upon hair texture,
timing from the start of application.
[0012] U.S. Pat. No. 5,849,277 describes relaxer emulsions prepared
using an excess of lithium carbonate and a limited amount of
calcium hydroxide as reactive ingredients. The compositions are
described to be "highly effective hair relaxer formulations having
a very low potential for causing skin irritation during the
timeframe (usually no more than 30 minutes) of a traditional
relaxer treatment application."
[0013] U.S. Pat. No. 2003/0175233 discloses hair cosmetic agents
therein described as permitting "effective relaxation without
irritation to the scalp occurring or without the hair becoming
damaged." The hair cosmetic agents described by this application
comprise:
[0014] (i) polymer obtained by free-radically initiated
polymerization of: [0015] (a) 1 to 100% by weight, preferably 2 to
95% by weight of at least one cationic monomer chosen from
N-vinylimidazoles and diallylamines, optionally in partially or
completely quaternized form, [0016] (b) 0 to 99% by weight of at
least one water-soluble monomer different from (a) and [0017] (c) 0
to 50% by weight of at least one further free-radically
copolymerizable monomer different from (a) or (b), with subsequent
partial or complete quaternization or protonation of the polymer if
a nonquaternized or only partially quaternized monomer is used as
monomer (a), and
[0018] (ii) relaxer.
Customary contact times for these agents are disclosed to be in the
range of 10 to 20 minutes.
[0019] Relaxer treatments are ordinarily repeated once every 6 to 8
weeks, which period is considered to be a typical relaxation cycle.
Subsequent to treatment, the ease with which the relaxed hair may
be styled varies, depending upon the phase of the relaxer cycle.
For example, within about the first to about the third or fourth
week following treatment (corresponding to the period when the hair
has retained some "bounce" and before the appearance of a
significant amount of new growth) the relaxed or straightened hair
is generally perceived by consumers to be relatively easy to style.
About three or four weeks after the relaxer treatment, the consumer
may begin to use straightening tongs or other styling aids in an
attempt to control outgrowth. About five to six weeks into the
relaxation cycle, with the lengthening of outgrowth, the hair
typically becomes very difficult to style and is hard to control.
Approximately two weeks before the commencement of next relaxation
cycle, consumers may stop washing their hair to build-up what are
perceived to be skin-protecting scalp oils.
[0020] It is an object of this invention to provide a method of
permanent hair relaxation in which relaxer treatment times are
reduced. In at least one embodiment, it is also an object of this
invention to provide a method of permanent hair relaxation that,
after a desired degree of relaxation is achieved, provides
sustained ease of styling between relaxer treatments. It is a
further object of this invention to provide, in at least one
embodiment, a method of hair relaxation that does not require
consumers to change their hair styling habits between relaxation
treatments. It is yet another object of this invention to provide
users with a kit that enables them to carry out the method of this
invention.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0021] It has now been found that repeated treatments with a highly
alkaline hair relaxer for relatively short application periods,
i.e., less than about 10 minutes, can provide straightening that
approximates or equals that afforded by a single conventional
treatment where the relaxer is typically applied for a period of 20
minutes or more. It has further been found that using shorter
application periods and shortening the interval of time between the
relaxer treatments can minimize the issues associated with
regrowth. It has also been found that increasing the frequency of
relaxer treatments in accordance with the method of this invention
results in hair having a tensile strength that is generally
comparable to or, in some instances, better then that of hair
relaxed by means of conventional alkaline treatments which commonly
employ longer intervals, typically about 6 to about 8 weeks,
between treatment sessions.
[0022] In one embodiment this invention relates to a method of
relaxing naturally curly hair that comprises:
[0023] A) carrying out a hair treatment session that comprises the
steps of: [0024] i) applying to the hair, an alkaline hair relaxer
comprising an active hydroxide, [0025] ii) allowing the relaxer to
remain on the hair for a total period of less than about 10
minutes; [0026] iii) removing the relaxer from the hair; and
[0027] B) repeating the treatment session described in part (A) to
attain a desired degree of hair relaxation, with the interval
between individual treatment sessions ranging from about 3 to about
20 days.
[0028] Having attained a desired degree of relaxation, the
treatment sessions may be repeated, as needed, to maintain ease of
styling and a relaxed hair appearance as the treated hair grows out
and new proteins are generated at the fiber base.
[0029] In another embodiment, this invention relates to a hair
treatment product that comprises, in a single kit;
[0030] A) a relaxer composition that provides a source of active
hydroxide,
[0031] B) optionally, an activator composition,
[0032] C) optionally, a neutralizing composition,
[0033] D) optionally, a conditioning composition, and
[0034] E) instructions teaching the use of the kit components in
such a manner that the hair to be straightened is subjected to
multiple treatments of reactive hydroxide, for periods lasting less
than about 10 minutes, with the interval between treatments ranging
from about 3 to about 20 days, until a desired degree of hair
relaxation is attained.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0035] Of particular interest are treatments wherein active relaxer
is allowed to remain on the hair for a period of less than about 8
minutes, preferably up to about 5 minutes. The optimum interval
between individual treatments depends upon factors that include the
particular characteristics of the hair, as well as the
concentration and source of the reactive hydroxide.
[0036] In general, it is desirable for the interval between
treatments to be a period of from about 3 to about 20 days,
preferably from about 5 to about 15 days, and, in embodiments of
particular interest, from about 10 to about 14 days. When the
treatment interval extends beyond about 20 days, the presence of
regrowth may make it more difficult to achieve a cumulative
straightening benefit within an acceptable timeframe. When the
treatment interval is less then about 3 days, it may be more
difficult for the hair to recover "bounce" or spring.
[0037] Once a desired degree of relaxation is attained, the method
of the subject invention allows users to maintain same by
continuing to repeat the treatment sessions on an as-needed basis;
at this point, the interval between individual treatment sessions
is preferably from about one to about two weeks. Depending upon
factors that include the concentration of active hydroxide, and the
period that the relaxer is allowed to remain on the hair,
"permanent" relaxation may be achieved in three or fewer relaxer
treatment sessions; in some instances, six or more sessions may be
needed.
[0038] The relaxers suitable for use herein are materials that
provide a source of active hydroxide. Exemplary of such materials
are "lye" and "no-lye" type relaxers. "Lye" relaxers contain sodium
hydroxide; in "no-lye" relaxers the source of active hydroxide is
an alkaline agent other than sodium hydroxide, including, for
example, other soluble metal hydroxides, for example, alkali metal
hydroxides such as lithium and potassium hydroxide, as well as less
soluble multivalent metal hydroxides, for example Ca(OH).sub.2,
that are converted, in situ, to soluble active bases, e.g.,
guanidine hydroxide.
[0039] Active hydroxide may be provided by using a less soluble or
insoluble multivalent metal hydroxide in conjunction with a
complexing agent that dissociates the multivalent metal hydroxide
and chelates, sequesters or otherwise ties up the multivalent metal
ion and liberates hydroxide ions. Non-limiting examples of less
soluble or insoluble metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide,
barium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, aluminum hydroxide, cupric
hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese
hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, and the like. The
complexing agents that may be used in the practice of this
invention include, but are not limited to, mono-, di-, poly-
amino-, and hydroxy-carboxylic acids, mono-, di-, poly-, amino- and
hydroxy-sulfonic acids and mono-, di-, poly-, amino- and
hydroxy-phosphonic acids. Other suitable complexing agents are
chelating agents and sequestering agents. Non-limiting examples of
complexing agents include ethylene-diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA),
N-(hydroxyethyl)ethylene diamine triacetic acid, aminotrimethylene
phosphonic acid, diethylenetriamine-pentaacetic acid, lauroyl
ethylene diamine triacetic acid, nitriloacetic acid,
iminodisuccinic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid,
N-2-hydroxyethyliminodiacetic acid, and the like. The complexing
agents may be used in the form of their corresponding organic
and/or inorganic salts, with guanidine salts being exemplary of the
corresponding organic salts, and potassium, sodium and/or lithium
salts being exemplary of the inorganic salts. U.S. Pat. No.
6,5612,327 is incorporated herein by reference with respect to its
disclosure of the activation of multivalent metal hydroxides
through the use of a complexing agent.
[0040] The alkaline agents that may be used to generate active
hydroxide may be chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline
earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, Group II
hydroxides, Group IV hydroxides, Group V hydroxides, Group VI
hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and the like, as well as oxides and
salts that are convertible to such hydroxides. Of particular
interest in the practice of this invention are relaxers comprising
at least one active hydroxide selected from the group consisting of
sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and
guanidine hydroxide.
[0041] The "lye" relaxers used herein typically comprise from about
0.5% to about 2.5% by weight of sodium hydroxide, based on the
total weight of the relaxer, with sodium hydroxide concentrations
of preference being determined by application period, treatment
session intervals, and degree of relaxation desired. In at least
one embodiment of this invention, the use of a relaxer comprising
sodium hydroxide in an amount of from about 0.7 to about 2.2%
percent by weight, more particularly, from about 1.5 to about 2.2%
by weight, is of particular interest. In the case of "no-lye"
relaxers, the concentration of alkaline agent is generally present
in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, more
particularly from about 0.7 to about 10% by weight, based on the
total weight of the relaxer; the concentration of choice being
dependent upon the particular alkaline agents present and the
solubility thereof. In general, the relaxers used in the
compositions of this invention may be formulated to strengths that
are comparable to or as low as one quarter the strength of
conventional commercially available alkaline relaxers. Using
relaxers having lower concentration of active hydroxide may
increase the number of relaxer treatments required to attain the
desired degree of hair relaxation or strength, however, such
treatments may result in hair having improved tensile strength.
[0042] As used herein, the term "relaxer" refers to the active
hydroxide containing material in the form in which it is applied to
the hair, and the term "relaxer composition" refers to an active
hydroxide-generating composition that forms a component of the
relaxer system kit. Depending upon the active hydroxide component,
the relaxer composition may require mixing with a separately
packaged activator to generate active hydroxide, as is the case,
for example, when guanidine hydroxide is produced by mixing a
calcium hydroxide-containing relaxer composition with a guanidine
carbonate-containing activator. The term "separately packaged"
means packaged in such a manner that the contents thereof do not
mix with any other components of the reactor kit until such time as
it is intended that they be combined.
[0043] To help protect the scalp and skin from the caustic nature
of the hydroxide, the relaxer compositions further comprise at
least one oleaginous material. Non-limiting examples of suitable
oleaginous materials include mineral oils, petrolatum, lanolin,
mineral jellies, plant oils, and the like. Such components are well
known to those skilled in the art and are commercially available,
in cosmetic grades, from numerous suppliers.
[0044] In addition to the complexing agents and oleaginous
materials referred to above, one or more additives such as are
commonly used in hair relaxers may also be present in the relaxers
of this invention. Non-limiting examples of these additional
additives are, for example, solvents, viscosity modifiers,
gellants, surfactants, conditioners, moisturizers, fragrances,
masking agents, proteins, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.
These additives are well known to those skilled in the art and are
commercially available from numerous suppliers. Non-limiting
examples of solvents include, for example, water, alkanols,
glycerol, glycols and glycol ethers, and aromatic alcohols. In one
ore more embodiments of this invention additional additives of
interest comprise one or more fatty alcohols and/or glycol ethers
thereof, the fatty alcohol preferably being one or more
C.sub.12-C.sub.22 fatty alcohols and/or glycol ethers thereof.
[0045] In an embodiment of particular interest, the relaxer used in
the method of this invention comprises:
[0046] a) at least one reactive hydroxide,
[0047] b) at least one oleagenous material,
[0048] c) at least one a fatty alcohol and/or a glycol ether
thereof the fatty alcohol preferably being a C.sub.12-C.sub.22
fatty alcohol, and
[0049] d) water, preferably deionized water.
[0050] The relaxer compositions are typically emulsions or
suspensions. In one embodiment, the relaxer compositions are
formulated as creams, gels, or foams having Brookfield viscosities
of from about 100,000 to about 1,000,000 cps @ 25.degree. C. (TE
spindle; 0.5 rpm), with relaxer compositions having Brookfield
viscosities of from about 400,000 to about 800,000 cps @ 25.degree.
C. (TE spindle; 0.5 rpm) being of particular interest.
[0051] In another embodiment, the relaxer compositions of this
invention may be formulated into less viscous aqueous hair
conditioner bases wherein the presence of oleaginous materials such
as mineral oil or petrolatum is reduced or minimized. Aqueous
conditioner based relaxer compositions may have having Brookfield
viscosities of from about 1,000 to about 100,000 cps @ 25.degree.
C. (TE spindle; 0.5 rpm) and, more particularly, from about 2,000
to about 10,000 cps @ 25.degree. C. (TE spindle; 0.5 rpm) being of
particular interest. The compositions may be prepared by techniques
such as are generally known in the art.
[0052] In addition to comprising at least one reactive hydroxide,
aqueous conditioner based relaxer compositions comprise
conditioning agent and fatty alcohol material. The conditioning
agent may be present in such compositions in an amount of from 0.5
to 15%, preferably from 1.5 to 8% by weight, and, in at least one
embodiment of interest, from 2 to 6% by weight based on the total
weight of the composition. The conditioning agent may comprise a
quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent, also referred to
as cationic conditioning agents. Cationic conditioning agents
suitable for use herein include cationic compounds corresponding to
the general formula:
[N(R.sup.1)(R.sup.2)(R.sup.3)(R.sup.4)].sup.+[X].sup.- (I) wherein
R.sup.1, R.sup.2, R.sup.3, and R.sup.4 are independently selected
from (a) an aliphatic hydrocarbyl group of from 1 to about 22
carbon atoms and (b) hydrogen or an aromatic, alkoxy,
polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group
having up to about 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion
such as those selected from halide (e.g., chloride, bromide),
acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate,
and alkylsulfate radicals, preferably at least one of R.sup.1,
R.sup.2, R.sup.3, and R.sup.4 is an aliphatic hydrocarbyl group
having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, preferably alkyl. The
aliphatic hydrocarbyl groups can contain, in addition to carbon and
hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino
groups. The longer chain aliphatic hydrocarbyl groups, e.g., those
of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
Moreover, these longer chain groups need not be solely one chain
length, rather these groups may be mixtures of different length
chains. Salt-forming anions of particular interest are halides,
preferably chloride.
[0053] Included among such cationic conditioning agents are Formula
I compounds as described above wherein R.sup.1, R.sup.2, R.sup.3,
and R.sup.4 are independently selected from (a) an aliphatic
hydrocarbyl group as described above and (b) an alkoxy,
polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group
as described above. Formula I compounds of particular interest
include monoalkyl quats having the general formula described above
wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3, which may be the same or
different, are C1-C4 alkyl groups and R.sub.4 is a C8 or greater,
preferably C14 to C22, hydrocarbyl group; optionally one of the
C1-C4 alkyl groups may be replace by an aromatic group, preferably
a benzyl group. Other Formula I compounds of interest include
dialkyl quats having the general formula described above wherein
R.sub.1 and R.sub.2, which may be the same or different, are C1-C4
alkyl group, and R.sub.3 and R.sub.4, which may be the same or
different, are C8 or greater, preferably C14 to C22, hydrocarbyl
groups, preferably alkyl.
[0054] Examples of suitable cationic compounds include: pyridinium
chloride, docosyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (behentrimonium
chloride), octyltrimethylammonium chloride,
dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium
chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride,
decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride,
octadecyidimethylbenzylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium
chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride,
dihexadecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium
chloride, didodecyidimethylammonium chloride,
dimethyldi(hydrogenated tallow) ammonium chloride, PEG-2
oleylammonium chloride.
[0055] Other suitable cationic conditioning agents are polymers
characterized by the presence of cationic nitrogen groups such as
cationic-nitrogen-containing groups, protonated amino groups or
mixtures thereof. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic
Ingredient Dictionary, 3.sup.rd edition. The weight average
molecular weight of the cationic polymer will preferably range from
about 10,000 to about 2,000,000. Quaternary silicone polymers,
quaternary polysaccharide polymers, quaternary cellulose
derivatives, quaternary starch derivatives and quaternary guar gum
derivatives are also exemplary of suitable cationic conditioning
agents. The cationic conditioning agent may, but need not, be
present as mixtures.
[0056] The fatty alcohol material may be present in the aqueous
conditioner based relaxer composition in an amount of from 2 to 15
weight percent, preferably from 2 to 12 weight percent and, in one
embodiment of particular interest, from 5 to 10 weight percent,
based on the total weight of the composition. The "fatty alcohol
material" means an alcohol or amine having at least one fatty
chain, preferably alkyl, of from about 8 to about 22, preferably
from about 12 to about 20, carbon atoms. The fatty material may,
but need not be "alkoxylated" (e.g., ethoxylated or propoxylated).
The fatty material may but need not be in the form of mixtures.
Examples of suitable fatty materials include cetyl alcohol, stearyl
alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, ethylene
glycol cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, ceteth 1,
steareth 2, ceteareth 20, and the like. The fatty alcohol may, but
need not, be present as mixtures.
[0057] The aqueous conditioner based relaxer composition may
further comprise one or more additional components such as are
conventionally present in hair conditioner bases, such as, for
example, emulsifiers, suspending agents, additional conditioners,
thickening agents, viscosity modifiers, fragrances, and
colorants.
[0058] In use, the relaxer is applied to and distributed evenly on
the hair. To promote the straightening process, the hair may be
subjected to a gentle straightening force such as may be achieved
by smoothing the hair with the fingers, straightening brush, back
of a comb, or the like.
[0059] At the conclusion of the treatment period the relaxer is
removed, typically by rinsing with water. To neutralize any
residual relaxer that may remain on the hair the hair may be
further treated with a neutralizing agent such as, for example a
neutralizing shampoo. If desired, the relaxed hair may be treated
with at least one conditioning agent. Exemplary of such
conditioning agents are moisturizers, conditioners and oils.
[0060] As used herein, the term "comprising" is meant not to be
limiting to any subsequently stated elements but rather to
encompass non-specified elements of major or minor functional
importance. In other words the listed steps, elements or options
need not be exhaustive. Whenever the words "including or "having
are used, these terms are meant to be equivalent to comprising as
defined above.
[0061] Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where
otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description
indicating amounts of material, including material ratios, ought to
be understood as modified by the word "about".
[0062] The invention is further illustrated by way of the following
non-limiting examples. All parts, percentages and proportions
referred to here and elsewhere in the specification and the
appended claims are by weight, unless specified otherwise.
EXAMPLES
[0063] Relaxer formulations as described in Table 1 were formulated
by means of the following procedure:
[0064] In a suitably sized first vessel, under moderate agitation,
a mixture of all formulation components except the mineral oil,
petrolatum and hydroxide, were prepared by staged addition and
heated to 82-85.degree. C. under moderate agitation. Meanwhile, in
a second vessel, the mineral oil and petrolatum were also heated to
82-85.degree. C. When the contents of both vessels were at
82-85.degree. C., the second vessel was emptied into the first
vessel. The resulting mixture was maintained at 82-85.degree. C.
under high agitation for 30 minutes. Agitation was then reduced to
moderate, and cooling of the reaction mixture was begun. When the
vessel contents reached 52.degree. C., hydroxide was added. The
mixture was cooled to room temperature over a period of 30 minutes,
with continued moderate agitation. TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Strength
E1 E2 E3 E4 Component Weight % Petrolatum 15.00 15.00 15.00 15.00
Mineral Oil 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol 6.80 6.80
6.80 6.80 Stearyl Alcohol and20 1.70 1.70 1.70 1.70 Ceteareth-
Laureth-23 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Polysorbate-60 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50
Propylene Glycol 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 NaOH 2.20 1.10 0.73 -- Lithium
Hydroxide 0.75 (mono hydrate) Water (deionized) Balance Balance
Balance to Balance to to 100% to 100% 100% 100%
[0065] The relaxer formulations were tested on South African hair
tresses by means of the following procedure:
[0066] 1.4 g of relaxer/gram of hair tress were worked into each of
five tresses weighing approximately 0.40 gm each,
[0067] 2. The tresses were smoothed with the back of a comb or the
fingers and laid out on foil.
[0068] 3, The relaxer was allowed to remain on the hair for the
applicable treatment period (5 or 20 minutes).
[0069] 4. Upon completion of the treatment period, the hair tresses
were rinsed under warm water until no trace of relaxer was
left.
[0070] 5. The tresses were shampooed with 1 ml standard
neutralizing shampoo/tress (approximately 30 seconds/tress), and
rinsed with water until all the shampoo was removed,
[0071] 6. The shampoo treatment was repeated two more times.
[0072] 7. The tresses were laid on foil and blotted with a towel,
and allowed to air dry.
[0073] The procedure was repeated for multiple treatment cycles
that involved a total number of relaxer applications as indicated
in Tables 2 and 3. Untreated tresses were employed as a control.
Break stress and % straightening values for the treated and
untreated tresses are reported in Tables 2 and 3. The 20 minute
treatments reported in Table 3 provide a benchmark against the
results obtained with treatments of longer duration.
[0074] To evaluate the straightening efficiency of the various
relaxer treatments, fibers taken from test tresses of the treated
hair (or untreated control) were affixed on a sheet of graph paper
and carefully extended until all the kinks and curls were removed.
Using the graph paper as a template, the fibers were cut to an
extended length of 100 mm. The extension force was then removed and
the non-extended length of the fiber was measured. The ratio of the
non-extended fiber length to the extended fiber length was
multiplied by 100 to yield a value termed the "% straightness". The
"% straightness value" was reported as a mean value for 20
specimens (four from each of the five test tresses), from each of
which specimen five extended and non-extended fiber length
measurements were taken.
[0075] To evaluate the effect of the various relaxer treatments on
hair strength, break stress values were obtained from wet tensile
testing carried out using an Automated Diastron MTT675 instrument.
In these tests, the force to break 50 individual fiber specimens
(10 from each of the five test tresses) was measured. The diameter
of the individual fibers was also measured to allow the force to be
normalized against cross sectional area, that is, break
stress=force/cross sectional area. Break stress values of the
treated and untreated specimens are reported in Tables 2 and 3 as
mean values in units of gram-force/micron.sup.2. TABLE-US-00002
TABLE 2 5 Minute Relaxer Treatments Untreated (Control) 3X 6X 15X
30X Break % Break % Break % Break % Break % Stress Straightness
Stress Straightness Stress Straightness Stress Straightness Stress
Straightness E4 0.013 46 0.010 69 0.011 71 0.010 77 0.012 79 E3
0.014 46 0.012 66 0.012 69 0.010 75 0.010 84 E2 0.012 46 0.012 71
0.010 75 0.008 82 0.063 86 E1 0.012 46 0.008 91 0.008 90 0.005 94
0.005 96
[0076] TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 20 Minute Relaxer Treatments
Untreated (Control) 1X 2X 5X Break % Break % Break % Break % Stress
Straightness Stress Straightness Stress Straightness Stress
Straightness E1 0.014 46 0.007 88 0.005 86 0.006 92
[0077] The straightening efficiency and break strength data
demonstrates that the 5 minute treatments (3, 6, 15 and 30 relaxer
cycles) with E1 provided a straightening effect that was comparable
to or slightly better than that of the 20 minute treatments with E1
(1,2 and 5 relaxer cycles). Moreover, even after 30 relaxer cycles,
hair that had been given 5 minute E1 treatments had a wet tensile
strength that was generally comparable to that of hair that had
been given the 20 minute E1 treatment for fewer relaxer cycles (1,
2, and 5 cycles). The straightening efficiency of the 5 minute
treatment with E2 and E31 (commencing with the data for 15 and 30
cycles, respectively) began to approximate the performance of one
or two 20 minute treatments with the more concentrated E1
composition; the wet tensile properties of the 5 minute treatments
with these reduced strength formulations was significantly improved
compared to the E1 treatments. In terms of straightening efficiency
and wet tensile strength, the five minute quarter strength
treatments with lithium hydroxide were generally comparable to that
of the five minute, E3 sodium hydroxide treatments.
[0078] An aqueous conditioner based relaxer formulation as
described in Table 4 was prepared. TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Aqueous
Conditioner Based Relaxer Formulation Component Weight % Water
(deionized) to 100 Citric acid (50% active) 0.3 Stearamidopropyl
dimethylamine 0.75 Dicetyldimonium chloride (68% active) 3.15
Stearyl alcohol and Ceteareth 20 1.5 Cetyl alcohol 5.4 Disodium
EDTA 0.1 Cyclopentasiloxane 1.8 Sodium hydroxide 2
* * * * *