U.S. patent application number 10/571692 was filed with the patent office on 2007-01-04 for stretchable composite fabric and clothing product therefrom.
Invention is credited to Kenji Iwashita, Kengo Tanaka.
Application Number | 20070004303 10/571692 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 34467804 |
Filed Date | 2007-01-04 |
United States Patent
Application |
20070004303 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Tanaka; Kengo ; et
al. |
January 4, 2007 |
Stretchable composite fabric and clothing product therefrom
Abstract
A stretchable composite fabric appropriate to sports wear and
under wear is a woven or knitted fabric including a composite yarns
(A) formed from stretchable yarns (1) having a self-elongation of
5% or more upon absorbing water and an elongation at break of 200%
or more and non-stretchable yarns (2) having a self-elongation less
than 5% upon absorbing water, and yarns (B) including stretchable
yarns (3) having a self-elongation less than 5% upon absorbing
water and an elongation at break of 30% or more, wherein the yarns
(1) and (2) in a sample taken from the composite fabric
respectively have a length L1 and a length L2, the ratio L1/L2 is
0.9 or less, and the yarns (1) can self-elongate upon absorbing
water and shrink upon drying.
Inventors: |
Tanaka; Kengo; (Osaka,
JP) ; Iwashita; Kenji; (Osaka, JP) |
Correspondence
Address: |
SUGHRUE MION, PLLC
2100 PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE, N.W.
SUITE 800
WASHINGTON
DC
20037
US
|
Family ID: |
34467804 |
Appl. No.: |
10/571692 |
Filed: |
October 18, 2004 |
PCT Filed: |
October 18, 2004 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/JP04/15746 |
371 Date: |
March 13, 2006 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
442/182 ;
442/184; 442/190; 442/191; 442/203; 442/205; 442/206; 442/207;
442/208; 442/211; 442/212; 442/213; 442/214; 442/215; 442/216;
442/306; 442/308; 442/309; 442/310 |
Current CPC
Class: |
Y10T 442/3244 20150401;
D03D 15/56 20210101; Y10T 442/3276 20150401; D02G 3/32 20130101;
Y10T 442/413 20150401; Y10T 442/3081 20150401; Y10T 442/3195
20150401; Y10T 442/3179 20150401; Y10T 442/431 20150401; Y10T
442/3285 20150401; D10B 2401/046 20130101; Y10T 442/3268 20150401;
Y10T 442/3073 20150401; Y10T 442/438 20150401; Y10T 442/3008
20150401; Y10T 442/3024 20150401; Y10T 442/326 20150401; Y10T
442/3252 20150401; Y10T 442/3203 20150401; Y10T 442/322 20150401;
Y10T 442/425 20150401; A41D 31/102 20190201; Y10T 442/3211
20150401 |
Class at
Publication: |
442/182 ;
442/184; 442/190; 442/191; 442/203; 442/205; 442/206; 442/207;
442/208; 442/211; 442/212; 442/213; 442/214; 442/215; 442/216;
442/306; 442/308; 442/309; 442/310 |
International
Class: |
D03D 11/00 20060101
D03D011/00; D03D 15/08 20060101 D03D015/08; D04B 7/00 20060101
D04B007/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Oct 22, 2003 |
JP |
2003-361984 |
May 18, 2004 |
JP |
2004-147410 |
Claims
1. A stretchable composite fabric which is a woven or knitted
fabric comprising at least three types of yarns (1), (2), and (3)
different from each other, wherein the yarn (1) is a stretchable,
high water-absorbent and high self-elongative yarn, comprising
stretchable fibers having relatively high self-elongation upon
absorbing water, and an elongation at break of 200% or more; the
yarn (2) is a non-stretchable, low water-absorbent and low
self-elongative yarn comprising substantially non-stretchable
fibers having relatively low self-elongation upon absorbing water;
the yarn (3) is a stretchable, low water-absorbent and low
self-elongative yarn, comprising stretchable fibers having a
relatively low self-elongation upon absorbing water, and an
elongation at break of 30% or more; the yarn (1) has a
self-elongation of 5% or more upon absorbing water and the yarn (2)
and (3) have an self-elongation less than 5% upon absorbing water,
determined in such a manner that each type of yarn selected from
the yarns (1), (2) and (3) is wound around a hank frame having a
frame girth of 1.125 m under a load of 0.88 mN/d tex, to provide a
hank with a winding number of 10, the hank yarn is removed from the
hank frame and left to stand in the air atmosphere having a
temperature of 20.degree. C. and a relative humidity of 65% for 24
hours to condition the hank yarn, the resultant dried hank yarn is
subjected to a measurement of the dry length (Ld, mm) thereof under
a load of 0.0080 mN/d tex, immersed in water at a water temperature
of 20.degree. C. for 5 minutes, and then taken up from water, the
resultant water-wetted hank yarn is subjected to a measurement of
the wet length (LW, mm) thereof under a load of 0.0088 mN/d tex,
and the self-elongation of the yarn is calculated in accordance
with the following equation: Self elongation (%) of yarn upon
absorbing water=[(Lw-Ld)/(Ld)].times.100; from the yarn (1) and the
yarn (2), a stretchable, water-absorbent, and self-elongative
composite yarn (A) is formed, and the yarn (3) is contained in a
stretchable and non-water-absorbent and non-self-elongative yarn
(B) having substantially no self elongation; and the woven or
knitted fabric has a ratio L1/L2 of 0.9 or less, determined in such
a manner that the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to dimension
stabilization in the air atmosphere having a temperature of
20.degree. C. and a relative humidity of 65%; then, from the
dimension-stabilized woven or knitted fabric, a specimen of the
composite yarn (A) having a length of 30 cm is picked up; and
average lengthes L1 and L2 of the yarns (1) and (2) contained in
the specimen of the composite yarn (A) are measured under a load of
0.0088 mN/d tex, then the ratio of L1 to L2 is calculated.
2. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 1, having a woven
fabric structure, in the warp yarn group and/or weft yarn group of
which woven fabric structure, the stretchable, water-absorbent and
self-elongative composite yarn (A) and the stretchable, non-water
absorbent and non-self-elongative yarn (B) are alternately arranged
with every one yarn or every two or more yarns.
3. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 2, wherein the yarn of
only one group selected from the warp and weft yarn groups are
formed from the composite yarn (A) and the yarn (B), and the yarn
of the other group are formed from at least one type of yarn
different from the composite yarn (A) and the yarn (B).
4. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 3, wherein the yarn
different from the composite yarn (A) and the yarn (B) is selected
from yarns formed from a plurality of individual fibers having a
flat cross-sectional profile and yarns formed from a plurality of
individual fine fibers having a thickness of 1.5 d tex or less.
5. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 1, having a multi-ply
structure having two or more plies, in which multi-ply structure at
least one ply in the multi-ply structure comprises the composite
yarn (A) in a content of 20% by mass or more, based on the total
mass of the ply and another at least one yarn comprises the yarn
(B) in a content of 20% by mass or more, based on the total mass of
the another ply.
6. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fibers,
from which the stretchable, high water-absorbent and
self-elongative yarn (1) contained in the composite yarn (A) is
constituted, are selected from polyetherester fibers formed from
polyetherester elastomers comprising hard segments formed from
polybutylene terephthalate blocks and soft segments formed from
polyoxyethyleneglycol blocks.
7. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fibers,
from which the non-stretchable, low water-absorbent and low
self-elongative yarn (2) contained in the composite yarn (A) is
constituted, are selected from polyester fibers.
8. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fibers,
from which the yarn (2) is constituted, have an individual fiber
thickness of 1.5 d tex or less.
9. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the
stretchable, non-water absorbent and non-self-elongative yarn (B)
is a composite yarn comprising another yarn (4) in addition to the
stretchable, low water-absorbent and low self-elongative yarn (3),
the yarn (3) has an elongation at break of 200% or more, the yarn
(4) comprises fibers having substantially no self-elongation upon
absorbing water and no stretchability, and the ratio L3/L4 of the
average length L3 of the yarn (3) to the average length L4 of the
yarn (4) in the composite yarn (B), is 0.9 or less, determined by
the same manner of measurement as that applied to the composite
yarn (A).
10. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 9, wherein the fibers,
from which the yarn (3) having the elongation at break of 200% or
more is constituted, are selected from polyetherester fibers formed
from polyetherester elastomers comprising hard segments formed from
polybutylene terephthalate blocks and soft segments formed from
polytetramethyleneoxide glycol blocks.
11. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 9, wherein the fibers,
from which the yarn (4) is constituted, are selected from polyester
fibers.
12. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 1, having a roughness
change of 10% or more, determined by a measurement such that a
plurality of specimens having dimensions of 5 cm.times.2 cm are
prepared from the composite fabric, and left to stand in air
atmosphere at a temperature of 20.degree. C. at a relative humidity
of 65% for 24 hours to provide a plurality of dried specimens;
separately, a plurality of specimens having dimensions of 5
cm.times.2 cm are prepared from the composite fabric, immersed in
water at a temperature of 20.degree. C. for 5 minutes, taken up
from water, and subjected to a water removement by interposing each
specimen between a pair of filter paper sheets, and applying a
pressure of 490 N/m.sup.2 to the interposed specimen for one minute
to remove water remaining between fibers in the specimens and
provide a plurality of wetted specimens; an average largest
thickness Dw of the wetted specimens and an average largest
thickness Dd of the dried specimens are measured, and the roughness
change of the composite fabric is calculated in accordance with the
following equation: Roughness change
(%)=[(Dw-Dd)/(Dd)].times.100
13. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 1, having a woven
fabric structure, wherein the woven fabric has a cover factor of
2500 or more.
14. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 1, having at least one
surface applied with a water-repellent treatment.
15. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 1, having an air
permeability of 50 ml/cm.sup.2 s or less, determined in accordance
with JIS L 1096-1998, 6.27, method A (Fragir-type method), in the
air atmosphere at a temperature of 20.degree. C. at a relative
humidity of 65%.
16. The composite fabric as claimed in claim 1, having a hydraulic
pressure resistance of 100 mmH.sub.2O or more, determined in
accordance with JIS L 1092-1998, 4(1.1) (low hydrostatic pressure
method) in the air atmosphere at a temperature of 20.degree. C. at
a relative humidity of 65%.
17. A cloth material comprising the stretchable composite fabric as
claimed in claim 1 and being capable of generating a rough pattern
on at least one surface of the cloth material when wetted with
water.
18. Clothing having at least one portion selected from armhole,
side, breast, back and shoulder portions and formed from the cloth
material as claimed in claim 16.
19. The clothing as claimed in claim 18, selected from under
wear.
20. The clothing as claimed in claim 18, selected from sports wear.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to a stretchable composite
fabric and cloth products thereof. More particularly, the present
invention relates to a stretchable composite fabric which is a
woven or knitted fabric comprising a stretchable and high
water-absorbent and self-elongative yarn (1), a non-stretchable,
low water-absorbent and low self-elongative yarn (2) and a
stretchable, low water-absorbent and low self-elongative yarn (3),
and capable of, when wetted with water, generating a rough (or
rugged or concave and convex) pattern due to difference in
water-absorption and self-elongation among the yarns from which the
fabric is constituted, and removing, when dried, the rugged pattern
from the fabric, and cloth products thereof.
TECHNICAL BACKGROUND
[0002] It is known that various proposals have been made to utilize
stretchable woven or knitted fabrics in uses of sports wear and
under wear, as described in, for example, Japanese Unexamined
Patent Publication No. 3-174043 (Patent Reference 1).
[0003] When the stretchable woven or knitted fabrics comprising
synthetic fibers and/or national fibers are used in the use of
clothes, for example, the sports wear and under wear, however, a
problem that when sweated, from the skin, the cloth adheres to the
skin so as to create unpleasantness, occurred. To solve the
problem, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2003-147657
(Patent Reference 2) provided a woven fabric having a double ply
weave structure and a rough (or rugged or concave and convex)
pattern formed on the back surface of the fabric. In this case,
however, as the woven fabric has the rough (or rugged or concave
and convex) pattern formed on the surface, a cloth prepared from
the woven fabric is provided with unnecessary rugged pattern on the
cloth surface in usual condition (non-wetted (non-sweated)
condition), and thus has an undesired appearance.
[0004] Also, for example, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication
No. 3-213518 (Patent Reference 3) and No. 10-77544 (Patent
Reference 4) provided woven fabrics capable of self-controlling the
air permeability thereof. The cloth prepared from this woven fabric
can always provide good comfort by such a mechanism that when
sweated and the temperature of the inside of the cloth increases,
the air permeability of the woven fabric from which the cloth is
formed increases so that moisture stored in the cloth is discharged
to the outside of the cloth, and when the sweat stops, the cloth is
dried and the temperature of the inside of the cloth decreases, the
air permeability of the woven fabric from which the cloth is formed
decreases so that the warmth-keeping property of the cloth
increases.
[0005] Further, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No.
2002-266249 (Patent Reference 5) provided a double ply-structured
woven or knitted fabric containing a water-absorbing agent.
[0006] In the above-mentioned conventional woven or knitted fabrics
for clothes, however, the problem that when sweated, the cloth
creates an unpleasantness, has not yet fully solved.
[0007] [Patent Reference 1] JP-3-174043-A
[0008] [Patent Reference 2] JP-2003-147657-A
[0009] [Patent Reference 3] JP-3-213518-A
[0010] [Patent Reference 4] JP-10-77544-A
[0011] [Patent Reference 5] JP-2002-266249-A
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0012] An object of the present invention is to provide a
stretchable composite fabric comprising a yarn capable of
self-elongating upon wetting with and absorbing water and shrinking
upon drying and exhibiting, as a whole, a stretchability, and a
cloth product thereof.
[0013] The above-mentioned object can be attained by the
stretchable composite fabric of the present invention.
[0014] The stretchable composite fabric of the present invention is
a woven or knitted fabric comprising at least three types of yarns
(1), (2), and (3) different from each other,
wherein
[0015] the yarn (1) is a stretchable, high water-absorbent and high
self-elongative yarn, comprising stretchable fibers having
relatively high self-elongation upon absorbing water, and an
elongation at break of 200% or more; [0016] the yarn (2) is a
non-stretchable, low water-absorbent and low self-elongative yarn
comprising substantially non-stretchable fibers having relatively
low self-elongation upon absorbing water; [0017] the yarn (3) is a
stretchable, low water-absorbent and low self-elongative yarn,
comprising stretchable fibers having a relatively low
self-elongation upon absorbing water, and an elongation at break of
30% or more; [0018] the yarn (1) has a self-elongation of 5% or
more upon absorbing water and the yarn (2) and (3) have an
self-elongation less than 5% upon absorbing water, determined in
such a manner that each type of yarn selected from the yarns (1),
(2) and (3) is wound around a hank frame having a frame girth of
1.125 m under a load of 0.88 mN/d tex, to provide a hank with a
winding number of 10, the hank yarn is removed from the hank frame
and left to stand in the air atmosphere having a temperature of
20.degree. C. and a relative humidity of 65% for 24 hours to
condition the hank yarn, the resultant dried hank yarn is subjected
to a measurement of the dry length (Ld, mm) thereof under a load of
0.0080 mN/d tex, immersed in water at a water temperature of
20.degree. C. for 5 minutes, and then taken up from water, the
resultant water-wetted hank yarn is subjected to a measurement of
the wet length (LW, mm) thereof under a load of 0.0088 mN/d tex,
and the self-elongation of the yarn is calculated in accordance
with the following equation: Self elongation (%) of yarn upon
absorbing water=[(Lw-Ld)/(Ld)].times.100; [0019] from the yarn (1)
and the yarn (2), a stretchable, water-absorbent, and
self-elongative composite yarn (A) is formed, and the yarn (3) is
contained in a stretchable, non-water-absorbent and
non-self-elongative yarn (B) having substantially no self
elongation; and [0020] the woven or knitted fabric has a ratio
L1/L2 of 0.9 or less, determined in such a manner that the woven or
knitted fabric is subjected to a dimension stabilization in the air
atmosphere having a temperature of 20.degree. C. and a relative
humidity of 65%; then from the dimension-stabilized woven or
knitted fabric, a specimen of the composite yarn (A) having a
length of 30 cm is picked up; and average lengthes L1 and L2 of the
yarns (1) and (2) contained in the specimen of the composite yarn
(A) are measured under a load of 0.0088 mN/d tex, then the ratio of
L1 to L2 is calculated.
[0021] The composite fabric of the present invention preferably has
a woven fabric structure, and in the warp yarn group and/or weft
yarn group of the woven fabric structure, the stretchable,
water-absorbent, and self-elongative composite yarn (A) and the
stretchable, non-water absorbent and non-self-elongative yarn (B)
are alternately arranged with every one yarn or every two or more
yarns.
[0022] In the composite fabric of the present invention, preferably
the yarns of one group of the warp and weft yarn groups are formed
from the composite yarn (A) and the yarn (B), and the yarns of the
other group are formed from at least one type of yarns different
from the composite yarn (A) and the yarn (B).
[0023] In the composite fabric of the present invention, the
different yarn, from the composite yarn (A) and the yarn (B), is
preferably selected from yarns formed from a plurality of
individual fibers having a flat cross-sectional profile and yarns
formed from a plurality of individual fine fibers having a
thickness of 1.5 d tex or less.
[0024] The composite fabric of the present invention preferably has
a multi-ply structure having two or more plies, in which the
multi-ply structure at least one ply comprises the composite yarn
(A) in a content of 20% by mass or more, based on the total mass of
the ply and another at least one ply comprises the yarn (B) in a
content of 20% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the
another ply.
[0025] In the composite fabric of the present invention,
preferably, the fibers from which the stretchable, high
water-absorbent and self-elongative yarn (1) contained in the
composite yarn (A) is constituted, are selected from polyetherester
fibers formed from polyetherester elastomers comprising hard
segments formed from polybutylene terephthalate blocks and soft
segments formed from polyoxyethyleneglycol blocks.
[0026] In the composite fabric of the present invention,
preferably, the fibers, from which the non-stretchable, low
water-absorbent and low self-elongative yarn (2) contained in the
composite yarn (A) is constituted, are selected from polyester
fibers.
[0027] In the composite fabric of the present invention, preferably
the fibers, from which the yarn (2) is constituted, have an
individual fiber thickness of 1.5 d tex or less.
[0028] In the composite fabric of the present invention,
preferably, the stretchable, non-water absorbent and
non-self-elongative yarn (B) is a composite yarn comprising another
yarn (4) in addition to the stretchable, low water-absorbent and
low self-elongative yarn (3), the yarn (3) has an elongation at
break of 200% or more, the yarn (4) comprises fibers having
substantially no self-elongation upon absorbing water and no
stretchability, and the ratio L3/L4 of the average length L3 of the
yarn (3) to the average length L4 of the yarn (4) in the composite
yarn (B), is 0.9 or less, determined by the same manner of
measurement as that applied to the composite yarn (A).
[0029] In the composite fabric of the present invention,
preferably, the fibers from which the yarn (3) having the
elongation at break of 200% or more is constituted, are selected
from polyetherester fibers formed from polyetherester elastomers
comprising hard segments formed from polybutylene terephthalate
blocks and soft segments formed from polytetramethyleneoxide glycol
blocks.
[0030] In the composite fabric of the present invention, the fibers
from which the yarn (4) is constituted are preferably selected from
polyester fibers.
[0031] The composite fabric of the present invention preferably has
a ruggedness change of 10% or more, determined by a measurement
such that a plurality of specimens having dimensions of 5
cm.times.2 cm are prepared from the composite fabric, and left to
stand in air atmosphere at a temperature of 20.degree. C. at a
relative humidity of 65% for 24 hours to provide a plurality of
dried specimens; separately a plurality of specimens having
dimensions of 5 cm.times.2 cm are prepared from the composite
fabric, immersed in water at a temperature of 20.degree. C. for 5
minutes, taken up from water, and subjected to a water removement
by interposing each specimen between a pair of filter paper sheets,
and applying a pressure of 490 N/m.sup.2 to the interposed specimen
for one minute to remove water remaining between fibers in the
specimens and provide a plurality of wetted specimens; an average
largest thickness Dw of the wetted specimens and an average largest
thickness Dd of the dried specimens are measured, and the roughness
change of the composite fabric is calculated in accordance with the
following equation: Roughness change
(%)=[(Dw-Dd)/(Dd)].times.100
[0032] In the composite fabric of the present invention having a
woven fabric structure, the woven fabric preferably has a cover
factor of 2500 or more.
[0033] The composite fabric of the present invention preferably has
at least one surface applied with a water-repellent treatment.
[0034] The composite fabric of the present invention preferably has
an air permeability of 50 ml/cm.sup.2s or less, determined in
accordance with JIS L 1096-1998, 6.27, method A (Fragir type
method), in the air atmosphere at a temperature of 20.degree. C. at
a relative humidity of 65%.
[0035] The composite fabric of the present invention preferably has
a hydraulic pressure resistance of 100 mmH.sub.2O or more,
determined in accordance with JIS L 1092-1998, 4(1.1) (low
hydrostatic static pressure method) in the air atmosphere at a
temperature of 20.degree. C. at a relative humidity of 65%.
[0036] The cloth material of the present invention comprises the
above-mentioned stretchable composite fabric of the present
invention and is capable of generating a rugged pattern on at least
one surface of the cloth material when wetted with water.
[0037] The clothing of the present invention has at least one
portion selected from armhole, side, breast, back and shoulder
portions and formed from the above-mentioned cloth material of the
present invention.
[0038] The clothing of the present invention is preferably selected
from under wear.
[0039] The cloth of the present invention is preferably selected
from sports wear.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0040] FIG. 1 is an explanatory bird's eye view of an embodiment of
the stretchable composite fabric of the present invention upon
drying,
[0041] FIG. 2 is an explanatory bird's eye view of the stretchable
composite fabric shown in FIG. 1 upon wetting with and absorbing
water,
[0042] FIG. 3 shows an explanatory cross-sectional profile of
another embodiment of the stretchable composite fabric of the
present invention upon drying,
[0043] FIG. 4 shows an explanatory cross-sectional profile of the
stretchable composite fabric shown in FIG. 3 upon wetting with, and
absorbing, water,
[0044] FIG. 5 is an explanatory front view of an embodiment of the
cloth containing the stretchable composite fabric of the present
invention,
[0045] FIG. 6 is an explanatory front view of another embodiment of
the cloth containing the stretchable composite fabric of the
present invention,
[0046] FIG. 7 is an explanatory front view of still another
embodiment of the cloth containing the stretchable composite fabric
of the present invention,
[0047] FIG. 8 is an explanatory lack view of still another
embodiment of the cloth containing the stretchable composite fabric
of the present invention,
[0048] FIG. 9 is an explanatory front view of still another
embodiment of the cloth containing the stretchable composite fabric
of the present invention,
[0049] FIG. 10 shows a woven fabric structure of an embodiment of
the stretchable composite fabric of the present invention having a
weft backed weave structure, and
[0050] FIG. 11 shows a woven fabric structure of another embodiment
of the stretchable composite fabric of the present invention having
a weft backed weave structure.
BEST MODE OF CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0051] The stretchable composite fabric of the present invention is
a woven or knitted fabric comprising at least three types of yearns
(1), (2) and (3) different in self elongation upon absorbing water
and/or stretchability from each other.
[0052] The yarn (1) is a stretchable, high water-absorbent and high
self-elongative yarn comprising stretchable fibers having a
relatively high self elongation upon absorbing water, the yarn (1)
exhibiting an elongation at break of 200% or more; [0053] the yarn
(2) is a non-stretchable, low water-absorbent and low self
elongative yarn comprising substantially no stretchable fibers
having a relatively low self elongation upon absorbing water; and
[0054] the yarn (3) is a stretchable, low water-absorbent and low
self elongative yarn comprising stretchable fibers having
relatively low self elongation upon absorbing water, the yarn (3)
exhibiting an elongation at break of 30% or more.
[0055] The self elongations upon absorbing water of the yarns (1),
(2) and (3) are determined as follows.
[0056] Each of the yarns (1), (2) and (3) is wound around a hank
frame having a frame girth of 1.125 m under a load of 0.88 mN/d
tex, to provide a hank with a winding number of 10; the hank yarn
is removed from the hank frame and left to stand in the air
atmosphere having a temperature of 20.degree. C. and a relative
humidity of 65% for 24 hours to condition the hank yarn; the
resultant dried hank yarn is subjected to a measurement of the dry
length (Ld, mm) thereof under a load of 0.008 mN/d tex, then is
immersed in water at a water temperature of 20.degree. C. for 5
minutes, and taken up from water; the resultant water-wetted hank
yarn is subjected to a measurement of the wet length (Lw, mm)
thereof under a load of 0.0088 mN/d tex; and the self elongation of
the yarn is calculated in accordance with the following equation:
Self elongation (%) of yarn upon absorbing
water=[(Lw-Ld)/(Ld)].times.100.
[0057] The yarn (1) has a self elongation upon absorbing water of
5% or more, and the yarns (2) and (3) each exhibit a self
elongation upon absorbing water of less than 5%.
[0058] The stretchable composite fabric of the present invention
comprises a stretchable, water-absorbent and self-elongative
composite yarn (A) formed from the yarns (1) and (2) and a
stretchable, non-water absorbent and non-self elongative yarn (B)
containing the yarn (3) and exhibiting substantially no self
elongation.
[0059] The woven or knitted fabric for the present invention must
have a ratio L1/L2 of 0.9 or less determined in a manner such that
the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to a dimensioned
stabilization in the air atmosphere having a temperature of
20.degree. C. and a relative humidity of 65%; from the
dimension-stabilized woven or knitted fabric, a specimen of the
composite yarn (A) having a length of 30 cm is picked up; and the
average lengthes L1 and L2 of the yarns (1) and (2) contained in
the specimen of the composite yarn (A) are measured under a load of
0.0088 mN/d tex and the ratio of L1 to 12 is calculated.
[0060] The composite fabric of the present invention having the
above-mentioned constitution exhibits a stretchability in at least
one directions of warp and weft directions or at least one
direction of course and wale directions and further exhibits a
performance such that when the fabric is wetted with water, at
least the yarn (1) absorbs water and self elongates to cause the
form and appearance of the composite fabric to be changed, and when
the water-wetted fabric is dried, at least the water-absorbed and
self-elongated yarn (1) desorbs water and self-shrunk to cause the
form and appearance of the fabric to return to the original form
and appearance.
[0061] The yarn (1) usable for the present invention is constituted
from fibers having high self elongation upon absorbing water and a
stretchability. The self elongation of the yarn (1) upon absorbing
water is 5% or more, preferably 6% or more, still more preferably 8
to 30%. The fibers from which the yarn (1) is formed include, for
example, polyetherester fibers formed from polyetherester
elastomers comprising hard segments formed from polybutylene
terephtalate and soft segments formed from polyoxyethylene glycol;
polyester-mixed resin fibers formed from mixtures of polyester
resins with at least one resin selected from polyacrylate metal
salt polymers, polyacrylic acid polymers and copolymers thereof,
polymethacrylic acid polymers and copolymers thereof, polyvinyl
alcohol polymers and copolymers thereof, polyacrylamide polymers
and copolymers thereof and polyoxyethylene polymers; and polyester
fibers in which 5-sulfoisophthalic acid component is copolymerized.
Among them, the polyetherester fibers formed from polyetherester
elastomers comprising polybutylene phthalate, as hard segments, and
polyoxyethylene glycol as soft segments, have not only a high self
elongation upon absorbing water but also a high stretchability, and
thus are preferably utilized as a component for constituting a
stretchable composite fibers in which the high elasticity of the
polyetherester fibers is utilized.
[0062] The polybutylene terephtalate from which the hard segments
of the polyetherester elastomers preferably contain butylene
terephthalate units in a content of at least 70 molar %. The
content of the butylene terephthalate units is more preferably 80
molar % or more, still more preferably 90 molar % or more. The
principal acid component of the butylene terephthalate structure is
terephthalic acid. In this butylene terephthalate structure, a
small amount of another dicarboxylic acid may be copolymerized.
Also, the glycol component comprises, as a principal ingredient,
tetramethylene glycol and, as an optional copolymerization
ingredient, another glycol compound.
[0063] The dicarboxylic acids other than terephthalic acid include
aromatic and aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, for example, naphthalene
dicarboxylic acids, isophthalic acid, diphenyl dicarboxylic acids,
diphenyloxyethane dicarboxylic acids, .beta.-hydroxyethoxybenzoic
acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid, adipic acid sebacic acid, and
1,4-cyclohexane dicaboxylic acid. Also, polycarboxylic acids having
tri- or more functionality, for example, trimellitic acid and
pyromellitic acid are optionally employed as copolymerization
ingredients, if they substantially do not counteract attainment of
the object of the present invention.
[0064] Also, the diol compounds other than tetramethylene glycol
include aliphatic, cycloaliphatic and aromatic diol compounds, for
example, trimethylene glycol, ethylene glycol,
cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol and neopentyl glycol. Further, polyol
compounds having tri- or more functionality, for example, glycerol,
trimethylolpropane and pentaerythritol, are optionally employed as
copolymerization ingredient, if they substantially do not
counteract attainment of the object of the present invention.
[0065] The above-mentioned polyoxyethylene glycol preferably has a
number average molecular weight in the range of from 400 to 8,000,
more preferably from 1,000 to 6,000.
[0066] The above-mentioned-polyetherester elastomer can be
produced, for example, by subjecting a material comprising dimethyl
terephthalate, tetramethylene glycol and polyoxyethylene glycol to
a transesterification reaction in the presence of a
transesterification catalyst, to prepare
(.omega.-hydroxybutyl)terephthalate and/or oligomers thereof, then
subjecting the transesterification product to a melt
poly-condensation reaction in the presence of a polycondensation
catalyst and a stabilizing agent at an increased temperature under
a reduced pressure.
[0067] The ratio in mass of the hard segments to the soft segments
are preferably in the range of from 30/70 to 70/30.
[0068] Where the polyetherester elastomer comprises, as a
copolymerization component, a metal salt of an organic sulfonic
acid, for example, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, the resultant
fibers exhibiting a further enhanced self elongative property upon
absorbing water can be obtained.
[0069] The polyetherester fibers can be produced by melt-extruding
the polyetherester elastomer through a conventional melt-spinneret,
taking up the extruded filaments at a taking-up speed of 300 to
1200 m/minute, preferably 400 to 980 m/minute, and winding-up the
taken-up filaments at a winding draft rate of 1.0 to 1.2 times,
preferably 1.0 to 1.1 times, the above-mentioned taking-up
speed.
[0070] There are no specific limitations to the total thickness,
the individual fiber thickness and the number of filaments per
yarn, of the water-absorbent and self-elongative yarn (1). In view
of hand and producibility, the yarn (1) preferably has a total
thickness of 30 to 300 d tex, an individual fiber thickness of 0.6
to 100 d tex and a number of filament per yarn of 1 to 10.
[0071] The fibers from which the non-stretchable, low
water-absorbent, low self-elongative yarn (2), the yarn (2)
forming, together with the above-mentioned yarn (1), the composite
yarn (A), include, for example, natural fibers, for example, cotton
and hemp fibers; cellulose chemical fibers, for example, rayon and
cellulose acetate fibers; and synthetic fibers, for example,
polyester fibers, for example, polyethylene terephthalate and
polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers, polyamide fibers,
polyacrylnitrile fibers and polypropylene fibers. Among these
fibers, the conventional polyester fibers are preferably employed
for the yarn (2). When the low water-absorbent, and low
self-elongative yarn (2) has a individual fiber thickness of 1.5 d
tex or less (more preferably 1.0 d tex or less, still more
preferably 0.1 to 0.8 d tex, and the number of the fibers per yarn
is 30 or more, more preferably 50 to 300, the resultant composite
yarn (A) exhibits an increased water absorption and thus has an
increased self elongation upon absorbing water, and therefore, the
composite fabric of the present invention comprising the composite
yarn (A) exhibits an enhanced ease in generation of change in
appearance and form of the fabric due to water absorption and
wetting.
[0072] In the composite yarn (A), the yarns (1) and (2) from which
the composite yarn (A) is constituted, must have a specific
difference in yarn length, as shown below.
[0073] A woven or knitted fabric containing the composite yarn (A)
comprising the above-mentioned yarn (1) and (2) is
dimension-stabilized in the air atmosphere having a temperature of
20.degree. C. and a relative humidity of 65%; a specimen of the
composite yarn (A) having a length of 30 cm is picked up from the
dimension-stabilized composite fabric; an average lengths L1 and L2
of yarns (1) and (2) contained in the specimen of the composite
yarn (A) are measured under a load of 0.0088 mN/d tex; and the
ratio of L1 to L2 is calculated. The ratio L1/L2 must be 0.9 or
less.
[0074] Preferably, the ratio L1/L2 is 0.9 to 0.2, and more
preferably 0.8 to 0.3. When the ratio L1/L2 is more than 0.9, the
resultant composite yarn (A) exhibits an insufficient
stretchability. Also, if the ratio L1/L2 is less than 0.3, the
resultant composite yarn (A) may exhibit too low a change in form
and appearance of the composite yarn (A) when water-absorbed and
wetted.
[0075] There is no specific limitation to the method of producing
the composite yarn (A). For example, a composite yarn having a
core-in-sheath structure is formed by stretching (drafting) a yarn
(1) at a desired elongation rate (for example, 1.1 to 5.0);
combining a yarn (2) with the stretched yarn (1) so as to form a
core-in-sheath structure in which the core is formed from the
stretched yarn (1) and the sheath is formed from the yarn (2)
surrounding the core yarn (1); optionally lightly twisting the
resultant composite yarn, and then releasing the stretch of the
yarn (1) in the composite yarn to allow the yarn (1) to elastically
shrink. In the resultant composite yarn (A), the yarn (2) has a
longer yarn length than that of the shrunk yarn (1), and thus the
fibers from which the yarn (2) is constituted are folded and
surround around the yarn (1) to form a sheath part of the composite
yarn. Therefore, the resultant composite yarn appears as a bulky
yarn. The yarn (1) is selected from multi-filament yarns and staple
fiber-spun yarns, preferably the multi-filament yarns. The yarn (2)
is selected from multi-filament yarns and staple fiber-spun yarns,
preferably the multi-filament yarns. The multi-filament yarn (2)
may be processed with a texturing treatment, for example, a false
twist-texturing treatment.
[0076] In the composite yarn (A), there is no specific limitation
to the numbers of the yarn (1) and the yarn (2), while the ratio of
the number of the yarn (1) to that of the yarn (2) is preferably
1:1, and the ratio in mass of the yarn (1) to that of the yarn (2)
is preferably 10:90 to 70:30, more preferably 15:85 to 50:50.
[0077] In the production procedure of the composite yarn (A), the
stretch ratio of the yarn (1) is preferably controlled to 1.1 or
more, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0.
[0078] The combination procedure of the stretched yarn (1) with the
yarn (2) may be carried out in accordance with a doubling
(paralleling) method, air-jet type interlace yarn combining method,
Taslan air jet type yarn combining method, covering type yarn
combining method and composite false twist texturing type yarn
combining method. The covering type yarn combining method in which
the yarn (2) are wound around the stretched yarn (1) is preferably
employed. In this method, the resultant composite yarn exhibits a
clear core-in-sheath structure.
[0079] The yarn (B) usable for the present invention comprises, as
an indispensable component, a yarn (3) having a stretchability and
a low self elongation upon absorbing water. The yarn (3) is
constituted from stretchable, low water-absorbent and low
self-elongative fibers and exhibits an elongation at break of 30%
or more.
[0080] In the composite fabric of the present invention, the yarn
(3) usable for the yarn (B) is formed from stretchable fibers
having a relatively low self-elongation of 5% or less upon
absorbing water and exhibits an elongation at break of 30% or more.
The fibers from which the above-mentioned stretchable, low
water-absorbent and low self elongative yarn (3) is formed, may be
selected from stretchable polyetherester fibers, stretchable
polyurethane fibers, stretchable side-by-side type-conjugated
polyester fibers, stretchable polytrimethylene terephthalate
fibers, and false twist-textured filaments.
[0081] The stretchable polyetherester fibers are preferably
selected from polyetherester elastomer fibers which comprise hard
segments comprising polybutylene terephthalate and soft segments
comprising polytetramethyleneoxide glycol, and are available under,
for example, the trademark REXE by TEIJIN FIBERS CO. The elastomer
fibers can be produced by the same method as that of producing the
polyetherester fibers usable for the yarn (1), except that the
polyoxyethylene glycol used as a material for forming the soft
segments is replaced by polytetramethyleneoxide glycol. To impart a
low air permeability and/or a high water repellency to a target
composite fabric, the individual fiber thickness of yarn (3) is
preferably controlled to 1.5 d tex or less, more preferably 1.0 d
tex or less, still more preferably 0.1 to 0.8 d tex. Also the
number of the fibers or filaments per yarn of the yarn (3) is
preferably controlled to 30 or more, more preferably 50 to 300.
[0082] The yarn (B) may consist of the yarn (3) only or may be a
composite yarn comprising the yarn (3) and a yarn (4) different
from the yarn (3). When the yarn (B) is the composite yarn, the
yarn (4) may be formed from non-stretchable, low water-absorbent
and low self elongative fibers and has a self elongation of 5% or
less upon absorbing water.
[0083] When the composite yarn (B) is subjected to a measurement of
the average yarn lengthes L3 and L4 of the yarn (3) and the yarn
(4) in the same manner as that applied to the composite yarn (B),
the ratio of L3 to L4 (L3/L4) is preferably 0.9 or less, more
preferably 0.9 to 0.2, still more preferably 0.8 to 0.5. The
non-stretchable, low water-absorbent and low self elongative yarns
usable for the yarn (4) contained in the yarn (B) may comprise at
least one type of fibers, for example, non-stretchable polyester
fibers, polyamide fibers, polyacrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers,
cellulose chemical fibers and natural fibers which are also usable
for forming the yarn (2).
[0084] The combination of the yarn (3) with yarn (4) to provide the
composite yarn (B) is carried out so as to allow the resultant
composite yarn (B) to exhibit a sufficient stretchability. For
example, the combination of the yarn (3) with the yarn (4) may be
carried out in the same method as that of combining the yarn (1)
with the yarn (2) to form the composite yarn (A). In this case, the
yarn (3) is arranged in a stretched form in a core position and the
yarn (4) is combined with the stretched yarn (3) so as to form a
sheath surrounding around the stretched yarn (3), the combination
of the yarn (3) with the yarn (4) is subjected to a desired
yarn-processing procedure, for example, an air jet interlace
treatment, or a covering type yarn-combining procedure or a
composite false twist texturing procedure, and thereafter, the
resultant composite yarn is released from the stretch of the yarn
(3), to allow the stretched yarn (3) to elastically return to the
original form. In this yarn combination, the yarn (3) is arranged
in a core position, and the fiber of the yarn (3) in the sheath
part extend outward and are bent or curved to cause the resultant
composite yarn (B) to exhibit a bulky composite yarn
appearance.
[0085] There is no specific limitation to the total thickness of
the composite yarn (B). The total thickness can be appropriately
established in response to the desired structure of the target
woven or knitted fabric, for example, 30 to 300 d tex. There are no
specific limitations to the individual fiber thickness and the
number of fibers or filaments per yarn of the yarn (4). To impart a
low permeability and/or a high water repellency to the target woven
or knitted fabric, the yarn (4) preferably has an individual fiber
thickness of 1.5 d tex or less, more preferably 1.0 d tex or less,
still more preferably 0.1 to 0.8 d tex, and a number of fibers or
filament per yarn of 30 or more, more preferably 50 to 300. There
is no limitation to the cross-sectional profile of the fibers from
which the yarn (3) and yarn (4) are constituted. The
cross-sectional profile may be circular or irregular.
[0086] The stretchable composite fabric of the present invention
may have a woven fabric structure or a knitted fabric
structure.
[0087] In the case where the stretchable composite fabric of the
present invention has a woven fabric structure, in the warp yarn
group and/or the weft yarn group of woven fabric structure, the
stretchable, water-absorbent and self-elongative composite yarn (A)
and the stretchable, non-water-absorbent and non-self-elongative
yarn (B) may be alternately arranged with every one yarn or every
two or more yarns, preferably 2 to 800 yarns, more preferably 5 to
500 yarns, still more preferably 10 to 100 yarns.
[0088] In the case where the stretchable composite fabric of the
present invention has a knitted fabric structure, in the course
yarn group and/or the wale yarn group in the kitted fabric
structure, the stretchable yarn (A) having a self-elongation upon
absorbing water and the stretchable yarn (B) having non-self
elongation upon absorbing water may be alternately arranged with
every one yarn or every a plurality of yarns.
[0089] In the stretchable composite fabric of the present
invention, the alternate arrangement of the composite yarn (A) and
the yarn (B) may be regularly or irregularly made and preferably
regularly.
[0090] In the stretchable composite fabric of the present invention
having the woven fabric structure, optionally only one yarn group
selected from the warp yarn group and the weft yarn group in the
woven fabric structure is constituted from the composite yarn (A)
and the yarn (B), and the other yarn group is constituted from at
least one type of yarn different from the composite yarn (A) and
the yarn (B).
[0091] In the stretchable composite fabric of the present invention
having the knitted fabric structure, optionally only one yarn group
selected from the course yarn group and the wale yarn group is
constituted from the composite yarn (A) and the yarn (B), and the
other yarn group is constituted from at least one type of yarn
different from the composite yarn (A) and the yarn (B).
[0092] The yarn different from the composite yarn (A) and the yarn
(B) preferably selected from yarns comprising a plurality of
individual fibers having a flat cross-sectional profile and yarns
comprising a plurality of individual fibers having a fine thickness
of 1.5 d tex or less. These different types of yarns are very
flexible. The flexible fibers preferably have a flat
cross-sectional profile having a ratio of major axis to minor axis
of 1.2 or more, more preferably 2 to 5. The fine thickness fibers
preferably have a thickness of 1.5 d tex or less, as mentioned
above, more preferably 0.1 to 1.3 d tex. There is no further
limitation to the different types of fibers as long as the
above-mentioned requirements are satisfied. The different types of
fibers may be selected from natural fibers, for example, cotton and
hemp fibers, cellulose chemical fibers, for example, rayon and
cellulose acetate fibers and synthetic fibers, for example,
polyester fibers, typically polyethylene terephthalate and
polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers, and polyamide,
polyacrylonitrile and polypropylene fibers.
[0093] FIG. 1 is an explanatory bird's eye view of an embodiment of
the stretchable composite fabric of the present invention in the
dry state, and FIG. 2 is an explanatory bird's eye view of the
fabric of FIG. 1 in the water-wetted state.
[0094] In the composite fabric 1 shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the warp
yarn group comprises regions 2 constituted from a plurality of
composite yarns (4) and regions 3 constituted from a plurality of
yarn (B), and the regions 2 and the region 3 are alternately formed
with each other. The warp yarns in the regions 2 and the regions 3,
are the same as each other and constituted from stretchable,
non-water absorbent and non-self-elongative yarns. In FIG. 1, the
regions (2) the fabric 1 in dry state have a thickness of d1.
[0095] When the composite fabric 1 of FIG. 1 is wetted with water,
the dimensions and form (appearance) of the regions 3 comprising,
as weft yarns, yarns (B) substantially do not change, because all
the warp and weft yarns in the regions 3 are non-water absorbent
and non-self-elongative, as shown in FIG. 2. In the regions 2
containing, as weft yarns, the composite yarns (A), however, when
wetted with water, the yarns (1) contained in the composite yarns
(A) absorb water and self elongate. Also, the yarns (2) combined
with the yarn (1) in the composite yarns (A) are in a bending form
or spirally wound around the yarns (1), and thus the yarns (2) are
apparently elongate together with the water-absorbed and
self-elongated yarns (1) in the longitudinal direction of the
composite yarn (A), to cause the dimension of the regions (2) in
the weft yarn direction to increase and the regions (2) to be
corrugated in a rough (or rugged or concave and convex) pattern. In
this case, a height difference d2 between a highest point 4 and a
lowest point 5 of the regions 2, namely a thickness of the regions
2 is larger than D1. The rough pattern of the regions 2 generated
in the wetted state disappeares after drying and the region 2
becomes flat.
[0096] In the stretchable composite fabric of the present
invention, there are no specific limitations to the type and the
number of plies of the woven fabric structure. The woven fabric
structure includes plain, twill and satine weave structures but is
not limited to the above-mentioned structures. The composite fabric
include single ply fabrics and two or more ply fabrics.
[0097] In the stretchable composite fabric of the present invention
when the yarn length of the composite yarn (A) contained in the
composite fabric in the air atmosphere at a temperature of
20.degree. C. at a relative humidity (RH) of 65% is represented by
LA, and the length of the yarn (B) in the composite fabric under
the above-mentioned conditions is represented by LB, the difference
between LA and LB is preferably as small as possible, and the ratio
LA/LB is preferably in the range between 0.9 and 1.1. If the ratio
LA/LB is less than 0.9, or more than 1.1, a rough pattern may be
generated on the surface of the composite fabric even when dried
and thus the resultant composite fabric has an unsatisfactory
appearance.
[0098] The lengths of the yarns are determined by the following
measurement.
[0099] A sample of a composite woven fabric is left to stand in the
air atmosphere at a temperature of 20.degree. C. at a relative
humidity (RH) of 65% for 24 hours, then from the
dimension-stabilized fabric, specimen pieces (n=5) having
dimensions of 30 cm.times.30 cm are provided by cutting, a piece of
composite yarn (A) and a piece of yarn (B) are picked up from each
specimen piece and the length LA in mm of the piece of the
composite yarn (A) and the length LB in mm of the piece of the yarn
(B) are measured. During the measurement, each piece of the yarns
are tensioned under a load of 0.0088 mN/d tex (1 mg/denier). The
ratio LA/LB is represented by a ratio of an average of the measured
lengths LA to the average of the measured lengths LB. The piece of
the composite yarn (A) and the piece of the yarn (B) picked up from
each specimen piece of the fabric must be those extended in one the
same direction of the composite fabric. For example, where the
composite yarn (A) piece is picked up from the warp (or weft) yarns
of the composite fabric, the yarn (B) piece must be picked up from
the warp (or weft) yarns of the woven fabric.
[0100] Where the yarn (B) is a composite yarn containing
non-stretchable, non-water absorbent and non-self elongative yarns
(4), the ratio LA/LB can be controlled in the range of from 0.9 to
1.1 by the following method. Where the composite yarn (B) is
prepared from the stretchable yarns (3) and the non-stretchable
yarns (4), the draw ratio applied to the stretchable yarns (3)
during the production of the yarns (3) influences upon the
shrinkage in boiling water of the resultant composite yarns (B).
Therefore, the draw ratio in the production procedures of the
stretchable yarns (3) is controlled so that the ratio
.alpha./.beta. of the shrinkage in boiling water of the composite
yarns (A) to the shrinkage in boiling water of the composite yarns
(B) containing the yarns (3) falls within the range of from 0.9 to
1.1. When the composite fabric is produced by the above-mentioned
method, and the resultant composite fabric passes through a boiling
water treatment, for example, a dyeing procedure, the composite
yarns (A) and the composite yarns (B) are thermally shrunk to the
same extent is each other, and thus the difference in yarn length
between the composite yarns (A) and (B) is made small. In the case
where the difference in yarn length between the composite yarns (A)
and (B) contained in the composite fabric is made large by the
dyeing procedure, etc., a heat set treatment in which the composite
fabric is heat set while expanding the width of the composite
fabric to 1.4 times or less the original width thereof, enables the
average yarn length ratio LA/LB of the composite yarns (A) and (B)
in the composite fabric to be controlled in the range of from 0.9
to 1.1.
[0101] The composite fabric of the present invention is preferably
wet-treated at a temperature of 60.degree. C. or more (more
preferably 65 to 98.degree. C.), then optionally subjected to a
dyeing procedure, and then the wet-treated (or, if applied,
dyeing-processed) composite fabric is preferably heat-set while
expanding the width of the fabric at a width expansion ratio of 1.4
or less (more preferably 1.0 to 1.3). If the heat set is carried
out at a width expansion ratio more than 1.4, the self elongation
of the yarn (1) contained in the composite yarn (A) upon absorbing
water may decrease and the sufficient change in the rough pattern
of the fabric due to wetting and drying may not be obtained.
[0102] In the stretchable composite fabric of the present
invention, when wetted with water, the composite yarns (A)
self-elongate upon absorbing water and the yarn lengths of the
yarns (A) increase, whereas the stretchable, non-water absorbent
and non-self elongative yarns (B) arrayed adjacent to the composite
yarns (A) do not change the yarn lengths thereof. As a result, only
the elongated composite yarns (A) are corrugated in the fabric to
cause a rugged pattern to be generated on the surface of the
fabric. When the composite fabric is dried, the yarn lengths of the
composite yarns (A) reversibly decrease to the original and the
rough pattern on the fabric surface disappears.
[0103] With respect to the yarn length difference between the
composite yarns (A) and the yarns (B) when wetted with water, when
the yarn length of the wetted composite yarn is represented by LAw,
and the length of the wetted yarn (B) is represented by LBw, the
ratio LAw/LBw is preferably controlled to 1.05 or more, more
preferably 1.1 to 1.3. If the ratio LAw/LBw in the wetted state is
less than 1.05, the generation of the rough pattern on the fabric
surface when wetted with perspiration may become insufficient and
thus an unpleasant sticky feel cannot be sufficiently prevented:
the change in the roughness (or ruggedness) between the wet and dry
conditions is preferably 10% or more, more preferably 100% or more,
still more preferably 200% or more but not more than 1000%.
[0104] The roughness change of the fabric surface of the
stretchable composite fabric of the present invention, generated by
water-wetting and drying can be determined by the following
measurement.
[0105] A plurality of specimens having dimensions of 5 cm.times.2
cm are prepared from the composite fabric, and left to stand in the
air atmosphere at a temperature of 20.degree. C. at a relative
humidity of 65% for 24 hours to provide a plurality of dried
specimens; separately a plurality of specimens having dimensions of
5 cm.times.2 cm are prepared from the composite fabric, immersed in
water at a temperature of 20.degree. C. for 5 minutes, taken up
from water, and subjected to a water removement by interposing each
specimen between a pair of filter paper sheets, and applying a
pressure of 490 N/m.sup.2 to the interposed specimen for one minute
to remove water remaining between fibers in the specimens to
provide a plurality of wetted specimens; an average largest
thickness Dw of the wetted specimens and an average largest
thickness Dd of the dried specimens are measured, and the roughness
change of the composite fabric is calculated in accordance with the
following equation: Roughness change
(%)=[(Dw-Dd)/(Dd)].times.100.
[0106] The average largest thicknesses Dd and Dw of the dried
specimens and the wetted specimens by subjecting the dried and
wetted specimens to a largest thickness measurement using a super
high precisive laser displacement meter (Model: LC-2400, made by
KEYENCE CO.). The measurement procedure is repeated for five
specimens and the average largest thicknesses Dw and Dd are
calculated from the resultant data.
[0107] When the stretchable composite fabric of the present
invention is wetted with, for example, perspiration, a rugged
pattern is generated in the fabric due to the self-elongation of
the yarn (1) upon absorbing perspiration, to decrease the area of
the fabric at which the fabric comes into contact with the skin,
and to cause the unpleasant feel due to wetting to decrease of the
fabric, and further the drying of the fabric to be enhanced.
[0108] The stretchable composite fabric preferably has an elastic
elongation of 6% or more, more preferably 8 to 30% in the direction
along which the composite yarns (A) and the yarns (B) are
arranged.
[0109] Further, the stretchable composite fabric of the present
invention is optionally treated with at least one
function-imparting treatment, for example, water-repellent, raising
and ultraviolet ray-shielding treatments, or with at least
one-function-imparting agent selected from, for example,
anti-bacterial agents, mothproofing agents, light accumulating
agents, regressive reflecting agents and negative ion-generating
agents.
[0110] The stretchable composite fabric of the present invention
may have a multi-ply fabric structure having two or more plies. In
this case, preferably, at least one ply in the multi-ply fabric
structure contain the composite yarns (A) in a content of 20% by
mass or more, based on the total mass of the ply and at least one
another ply in the multi-ply fabric structure contain the yarn (B)
in a content of 20% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the
another ply.
[0111] In the two ply-structured composite fabric of the present
invention, there is no specific limitation to the two-ply woven or
knitted fabric structure. For example, in the case of woven
fabrics, the two ply fabric structure includes warp two-ply weave
structures, weft two ply weave structures, double weave structures,
superpose weave structures, and may be a plain weave/plain weave
combination, a twill weave/plain weave combination, a satin
weave/plain weave combination and a satin weave/twill weave
combination. Also, in the case of knitted fabrics, the two ply
knitting structures include half structures, half base structures
and satin structures using two reeds or three reeds. The two ply
fabric structure further include a combination of two single woven
or knitted fabrics heat-bonded to each other or oversewn together.
Generally the two-ply woven or knitted fabrics made by weaving or
knitting in the two ply structure have a soft hand and thus are
more preferable than the heat-bonded or oversewn two ply
fabrics.
[0112] In the two ply structured composite fabric of the present
invention, when the two ply composite fabric comprises the
composite yarns (A) and the yarns (B), a ply principally comprises
the composite yarns (A) and the other ply principally comprises the
yarns (B), and in the resultant cloth, the ply comprising the
composite yarns (A) is arranged in an inner side of the cloth,
facing the skin and the other ply comprising the yarn (B) is
arranged in an outer atmosphere side of the cloth, a rough (rugged)
pattern is generated on the inner side of the cloth facing the skin
when wetted with perspiration. Also, in the outer atmosphere side
surface of the two-ply structured woven or knitted composite
fabric, usually the rough (rugged) pattern is not generated even
when the cloth is wetted with rain, and thus no change in the
appearance of the outer side surface of the composite fabric
occurs, to produce a two ply woven fabric in which the composite
yarns (A) are arranged, as a principal component, in a ply and the
yarns (B) are arranged, as a principal component, in the other ply,
for example, in accordance with a weft two ply weave structure as
shown in FIG. 10 which will be explained in detail hereinafter, in
which structure, in the weft yarn group of the weave structure, the
composite yarns (A) and the yarns (B) are alternately arranged with
every one yarn, and in the warp yarn group of the weave structure
is filled with stretchable, non-water-absorbent and
non-self-elongative yarns. In this case, the stretchable,
non-water-absorbent and non-self-elongative yarns usable for the
weft yarns preferably have a individual fiber thickness of 1.5 d
tex or less, more preferably 1.3 d tex or less, still more
preferably 0.1 to 1.2 d tex and a number of the individual fibers
per of yarn of 30 or more, more preferably 50 to 300. When this
type of weft yarn is employed, the resultant composite fabric may
exhibit a high water-repellency.
[0113] When a water-repellent agent is applied to the ply
comprising the stretchable, non-water absorbent and non-self
elongative yarns, as a principal component, the resultant composite
fabric can exhibit an enhanced resistance to penetration of rain
water thereinto. The water-repellent agent may be selected from the
conventional water repellent agents usable for the textile
products. For example, the water-repellent agent include fluorine
resin and silicone resin water-repellent agents. In this case, a
single type of water-repellent agent may be used, or a mixture of
two or more types of water repellent agents may be used. When the
water-repellent agent is applied in a combination with a
cross-linking agent, for example, a melamine cross-linking agent or
an isocyanate cross-bonding agent, the water-repellent agent can be
firmly fixed to the two ply-structured woven or knitted fabric.
[0114] There is no limitation to the method of applying a
water-repellent agent to the surface formed principally from the
stretchable, non-water absorbent and non-self elongative yarns (B),
of the two ply-structured composite fabric. The application of the
water-repellent agent may be effected by a flat screen-printing
method, a rotary screen-printing method, a roller printing method,
a gravuar roll method, a kiss roll method and foam-processing
machine method.
[0115] Further, the ply in which the composite yarns (A) are mainly
arranged, is optionally imparted with a water-absorbing agent.
[0116] The water-absorbing agent may be selected from those having
an affinity to the composite yarns (A). Particularly,
water-absorbing polymeric materials are preferably employed for
polyester fibers. This type of water-absorbing polymeric materials
include, for example, block copolymers obtainable by block
copolymerizing a polyalkylene glycol (for example, polyethylene
glycol, polypropylene glycol etc.) with terephthalic acid and/or
isophthalic acid and a lower alkylene glycol (for example ethylene
glycol, etc.). In this case, a single type of water-absorbing agent
or a mixture of two or more types of water-absorbing agents may be
used. There is no limitation to the application method of the
water-absorbing agent. For example, to apply the water-absorbing
agent, a flat screen printing method, a rotary screen printing
method, a roller printing method, a gravure roll method, a kiss
roll method and foam processing machine method can be utilized.
[0117] In the case where the water-repellent agent and the
water-absorbing agent are applied to the two ply-structured
composite fabric of the present invention, there is no limitation
to the sequence of applications thereof, and thus, first, the
water-repellent agent may be applied to a ply principally
comprising the non-water-absorbent and self elongative yarns (B),
and then the water-absorbing agent may be applied to the other ply
comprising the composite yarns (A), or first the water-absorbing
agent may applied to a ply comprising as a principal component, the
composite yarn (A) and then the water-repellent agent may be
applied to the other ply comprising as a principal component to the
non-water absorbent and self elongative yarns (B). In general,
former sequence is preferable in practice, because the penetration
of the water-absorbing agent into the water-repellent surface can
be prevented with high efficiency.
[0118] In the two ply-structured composite fabric of the present
invention, the fabric preferably has a high density to prevent a
penetration of rain water into the fabric. For example, when the
two ply-structured composite fabric has a woven fabric structure,
the fabric preferably has a cover factor CF of 2500 or more, more
preferably 3000 to 4500. Herein, the cover factor CF is defined by
the following equation. CF=(DWp/1.1).sup.1/2
.times.MWp+(DWf/1.1).sup.1/2.times.MWf wherein DWp represents a
warp yarn total thickness (d tex) of; MWp represents a weave
density of the warp yarns (yarns/3.79 cm); DWf represents a weft
yarn total thickness (d tex); and MWf represents a weave density of
the weft yarns (yarns/3.79 cm).
[0119] A target of the weave density is that at which the fabric
exhibit an air permeability at dry of preferably 5 ml/cm.sup.2 s or
less; more preferably 0.1 to 3.0 ml/cm.sup.2 s, and a hydraulic
pressure resistance of preferably 100 mmHg or more, more preferably
120 to 600 mmHg.
[0120] The two ply-structured composite fabric of the present
invention can be easily produced by, for example, the following
method.
[0121] A composite yarn (A) is prepared by dubling a yarn (1) with
a yarn (2) while overfeeding the yarn (2) to the doubling step, or
combining a yarn (2) with a yarn (1) comprising a polyetherester
elastic yarn while applying a draft to the yarn (1), and then
subjecting the doubled or combined yarn to an air jet interlace
treatment, or covering processing, or composite false twist
texturing treatment. In order to obtain a composite yarn (A) having
a clear core-in-sheath structure, the covering processing is
preferably applied. In the combining step, the dralt ratio for the
yarn (1) is preferably 1.1 or more, more preferably 1.2 to 5.0,
namely 120 to 500%. Then a two ply-structured woven or knitted
fabric is produced from the composite yarns (A) alone or the
composite yarns (A) together with the non-self elongative yarns
(B), in an appropriately established weave or knitting structure as
mentioned above. In the case where the non-self elongative yarns
(B) have no stretchability, while the composite yarns (A) are
stretchable, the composite yarns (A) are stretched under a tension
applied thereto during the weaving or knitting procedure and then
are released from the tension after the weaving or knitting
procedure is completed, and the length of the composite yarns (A)
elastically returns to the original length so as to cause a
crape-like rugged pattern to be generated on the woven or knitted
fabric. Thus, in order to produce a relatively flat woven or
knitted fabric, the non-self elongative yarns (B) is selected from
single stretchable yarns (3) or elastic composite yarns. In an
embodiment of the yarn arrangements for the composite fabric, a
weft two ply structured woven fabric is produced from a weft yarn
group in which the composite yarns (A) and the non-self elongative
yarns (B) are alternately arranged with every one yarn, or every
one yarn (A) and a plurality of yarns (B), or every a plurality of
yarns (A) and one yarn (B), or every a plurality of yarns (A) and a
plurality of yarns (B), and a warp yarn group consisting of
non-self elongative yarns; or a warp two ply structured woven
fabric is produced from a warp yarn group in which the composite
yarns (A) and the non-self elongative yarns (B) are alternately
arranged with every one yarn or every one yarn (A) and a plurality
of yarns (B), or every plurality of yarns (A) and one yarn (B) or
every plurality of yarns (A) and a plurality of yarns (B), and a
weft yarn group consisting of non-self elongative yarns; or a two
ply structured knitted fabric is produced from the composite yarns
(A) and the non-self elongative yarns (B) alternately arranged with
every one yarn, or every one yarn (A) and a plurality of yarns (B),
or every plurality of yarns (A) and one yarn (B) or every plurality
of yarns (A) and a plurality of yarns (B).
[0122] The two ply structured composite fabric of the present
invention is preferably processed with a water-repellent treatment
of a water-absorption treatment. Also, before or after the
water-repellent treatment or the water-absorption treatment, the
composite fabric is optionally subjected to dyeing and finishing
procedures. Optionally, the composite fabric is further subjected
to a raising procedure or an ultraviolet ray-shielding procedure or
treated with at least one function-imparting agent selected from
antibacterial agents, deodoring agents, mothproofing agents,
light-accumulating agents, return-reflecting agents and negative
ion-generating agents.
[0123] In the two ply structured composite fabric of the present
invention, the composite yarns (A) constituted from
water-absorbent, self elongative yarns (1) and non-water absorbent,
self elongative yarns (2) are contained at least one ply of the
composite fabric, and therefore, when wetted with water, the
composite yarns (A) self elongate upon absorbing water to generate
a rough pattern on the woven or knitted fabric surface. Also, when
dried, the yarn length of the stretchable composite yarns (A)
reversibly decreases into the original length, and the rough
pattern disappears.
[0124] FIG. 3 shows an explanatory cross-sectional view of an
embodiment of the two ply structured woven fabrics of the present
invention in dry state. In FIG. 3, a composite fabric 11 comprises
an upper ply formed from composite yarns (A) 12 comprising
stretchable, water absorbency and self elongative yarns (1) and
non-stretchable, low water absorbent and low self elongative yarns
(2), and a lower ply formed from yarns (B) 13 comprising
stretchable, low water absorbent and low self elongative yarns (3).
In this dry state, the woven fabric has a thickness d1.
[0125] FIG. 4 shows an explanatory cross-sectional view of the two
ply structured woven fabric as shown in FIG. 3 in water-wetted
state. In FIG. 4, the yarns (1) in the composite yarns (A) 12 are
wetted with water, absorb water and self elongate to increase the
length of the yarns (1) and thus the yarns (2), which are wound
around the yarns (1) and are in a bent form or a spiral form, are
elongated, to cause the length of the composite yarns (A) 12 to
increase as shown in FIG. 4, and thus the roughness of the surface
of the two ply structured woven fabric to increase. Thus the
thickness d2 of the water-wetted woven fabric 11 becomes larger
than d1. When the wetted fabric shown in FIG. 4 is dried, the form
of the fabric returns to that shown in FIG. 3, and the ruggedness
of the fabric surface decreases.
[0126] The degree of change in the ruggedness of the composite
fabric surface caused by drying, wetting and drying can be
represented by the ruggedness change as defined above.
[0127] The ruggedness change of the two ply structured composite
fabric of the present invention is preferably 10% or more, more
preferably 20 to 50%. If the ruggedness change is less than 10%, a
cloth prepared from the resultant two ply structured composite
fabric may adhere to the skin when wetted with perspiration with an
increased unpleasantness, and may be difficult to dry.
[0128] The composite fabric of the present invention preferably
exhibits an air permeability of 50 ml/cm.sup.2s or less, more
preferably 5 to 40 ml/cm.sup.2 s, determined by an air permeability
measurement in accordance with JIS L 1096-1998, 6.27, method A
(Fragir type method) in the air atmosphere at a temperature of
20.degree. C. at a relative humidity of 65%.
[0129] Also, the composite fabric of the present invention
preferably exhibits a hydraulic pressure resistance of 100
mmH.sub.2O or more, more preferably 120 to 600 mmH.sub.2O,
determined by a hydraulic pressure resistance measurement in
accordance with JIS L 1092-1998, 4(1.1) (Law hydraulic pressure
method), in the air atmosphere at a temperature of 20.degree. C. at
a relative humidity of 65%.
[0130] In accordance with the present invention, various textile
products including cloth materials, for example, men's clothes,
women's clothes, sports wear; interior materials, for example, bed
materials and curtains, and automobile interior materials, for
example, car sheets, can be provided from the above-mentioned
two-ply structured composite fabric. The textile materials may be
entirely formed by sewing the composite woven or knitted fabric as
mentioned above, or parts of the textile materials, for example,
armholes and breast portions, may be formed by sewing the composite
woven or knitted fabric of the present invention. When the textile
materials produced as mentioned above are employed, the penetration
of rain water into the textile materials can be prevented, and the
area of a portion of the textile material coming into contact with
the skin when wetted with perspiration can made small, to cause the
sticky feel due to the wetted textile material portion to decrease
and the pleasantness to increase.
[0131] The cloth material of the present invention comprises the
stretchable composite fabric of the present invention as mentioned
above and is capable of generating a rugged pattern on at least one
surface of the cloth material when wetted with water.
[0132] The cloth of the present invention is formed by using the
cloth material of the present invention. The cloth may be entirely
formed from the cloth material of the present invention, or may
have at least one portion, for example, an armhole, a side, a
breast, a back or a shoulder portion formed from the cloth material
of the present invention. In the latter case, cloth portions
corresponding to portions of the body in which a perspiration
occurs at a relatively high extent are formed from the cloth
material of the present invention, and the remaining portions of
the cloth are formed from a material different from the cloth
material of the present invention and, thus, are not capable of
producing a rough pattern on the surface of the remaining portions
when wetted with water. For example, right and left armhole
portions 21 of a cloth shown in FIG. 5, right and left undersleeve
portions and right and left body side end portions of a cloth shown
in FIG. 6, breast center portion of a cloth shown in FIG. 7, back
upper center portion of a cloth shown in FIG. 8 and right and left
shoulder portions of a cloth shown in FIG. 9, are formed from the
cloth material of the present invention. The total area of the
portions formed from the cloth material of the present invention is
preferably 500 to 10000 cm.sup.2 per cloth, and the percentage of
the total area of the portions on the basis of the entire area of
the cloth is preferably in the range of from 5 to 70%, more
preferably from 10 to 60%. If the area percentage is less than 5%,
and when the cloth portions are wetted with, for example,
perspiration, the effect of the rugged pattern generated in the
wetted portions on the whole cloth may be too low. Also, if the
area percentage is more than 70%, and when wetted with water, the
change in dimensions of the cloth may be too high.
EXAMPLE
[0133] The present invention will be further illustrated by the
following Examples which are not intended to limit the scope of the
present invention in any way.
[0134] In the examples, the following measurements were carried
out.
[0135] (1) Lengthes of a yarn contained in woven or knitted fabric
in dry and in wet were determined in accordance with the
measurement method as described hereinbefore.
[0136] (2) Self elongations of a yarn upon absorbing water were
determined in accordance with the measurement method as described
hereinbefore.
[0137] (3) Shrinkage of a yarn in boiling water The shrinkage of a
yarn in boiling water was determined in accordance with JIS L
1013-1998, 7.15. The number (n) of specimens subjected to the
measurement was 3.
[0138] (4) Measurements of air permeabilities of a woven or knitted
fabric in dry and in wet and change in air permeability
[0139] A sample of a woven or knitted fabric to be tested was left
to stand in the air atmosphere at a temperature of 20.degree. C. at
a relative humidity of 65% for 24 hours, and a plurality of dry
specimens (n=5) were provided from the dried sample. Separately,
another sample of the woven or knitted fabric was immersed in water
at a temperature of 20.degree. C. for 5 minutes; the wetted sample
was taken up from water, interposed between a pair of filter paper
sheets and pressed under a pressure of 490 N/m.sup.2 for one minute
to remove water remaining between fibers in the sample; and a
plurality of specimens (n=5) were provided from the wetted sample.
Then the dry specimens and wetted specimens were subjected to a
measurements of air permeability in accordance with JIS L
1096-1998, 6.27.1, method A (Fragir type method), to determine
average air permeabilities of the dry and wetted specimens.
[0140] Further, the change in air permeability of the woven or
knitted fabric was calculated in accordance with the following
equation. Change in air permeability (%)=[(Pw-Pd)/Pd].times.100
wherein Pw represents an average air permeability of the wetted
specimens and Pd represents an average permeability of the dry
specimens.
[0141] (5) Largest thicknesses of woven or knitted fabric in dry
and in wet and change in ruggedness of the fabric were determined
by the measurements as described hereinbefore.
[0142] (6) Elongation at break
[0143] Elongation at break of a yarn was determined in accordance
with JIS L 1013-1998, Elongation measuring method.
[0144] (7) Cover factor (CF)
[0145] Cover factor of a woven fabric was calculated in accordance
with the following equation.
CF=(DWp/1.1).sup.1/2.times.MWp+(DWf/1.1).sup.1/2.times.MWf wherein
DWp represents a thickness (d tex) of warp yarns in the woven
fabric, MWp represents a weave density (yarns/3.79 cm) of the warp
yarns in the woven fabric, DWf represents a thickness (d tex) of
weft yarns in the woven fabric and MWf represents a weave density
(yarns/3.79 cm) of the weft yarns in the woven fabric.
[0146] (8) Hydraulic pressure resistance
[0147] Hydraulic pressure resistance of a fabric was determined in
accordance with JIS L 1092, Method B (low hydraulic static pressure
method).
[0148] (9) Water repellency
[0149] Water repellency of a fabric was evaluated in points in
accordance with JIS L 1092, Spray method.
[0150] (10) Water absorption
[0151] Water absorption was measured in accordance with JIS L 1967,
the dropping method, in which water was dropped onto a surface of a
fabric sample and a time for which the water drop disappeared a
specular reflection thereon was measured, and the water absorption
of the fabric sample was represented by the measured time.
[0152] (11) Stick-preventing property of a fabric to the skin
[0153] Three testers respectively wore a type of cloth to be tested
and quietly stayed on a chain under conditions of a temperature of
35.degree. C. and a relative humidity (RH) of 50% for 5 minutes,
and thereafter walked at a constant walking speed of 5 km/hour.
During walking, the confortability of the cloth was
organoleptically evaluated in the following three classes by the
testes. TABLE-US-00001 Class Comfort 3 Good, no sticky feel 2
Practically usable, slightly sticky 1 Bad, Significantly sticky
Example 1
[0154] A polyetherester polymer produced from 49.8 parts by mass of
polybutylene terephthalate for hard segments and 50.2 parts by mass
of polyoxyethylene glycol having a number average molecular weight
of 4,000 for soft segments was melted at a temperature of
230.degree. C. and extruded at an extrusion rate of 3.05 g/minute
through a melt spinneret for a monofilament. The extruded polymer
filament was taken up at a taking-up speed of 705 m/minute through
two godet rollers and wound up at a winding-up speed of 750
m/minute under a winding draft of 1.06, to provide a stretchable,
high water absorbent and self elongative yarn (1) having a yarn
count of 44 d tex/1 filament. The yarn (1) had a self elongation of
10% upon absorbing water in the longitudinal axis direction
thereof, a shrinkage in boiling water of 8% and an elongation at
break of 816%.
[0155] Also, as a non-stretchable, low water absorbent and low
self-elongative yarn (2), a conventional polyethylene terephthalate
multi-filament yarn (56 d tex/144 filaments) having a self
elongation less than 1% upon wetting with water was employed.
[0156] A stretchable composite yarn A) having a core-in-sheath
structure was produced from the stretchable, high water absorbent
and self elongative yarn (1) as a core yarn and the
non-stretchable, low water absorbent and low self elongative yarn
(2) as a sheath yarn, by combining the core yarn (1) with the
sheath yarn (2) in accordance with a covering method at a draft (in
%) of the core yarn (1) of 300% (3.0 times) with a yarn covering
number of the sheath yarn (2) of 1000 turns/m in the S
direction.
[0157] Separately, as a stretchable, low water absorbent and low
self elongative yarn (3), a stretchable polyetherester yarn
available under the trademark REXE, made by TEIJIN FIBERS, LTD, and
having a yarn count of 44 d tex/1 filament, a shrinkage in boiling
water of 24% and a self elongation upon absorbing water less than
1% in the longitudinal axis direction of the yarn was employed, and
as a yarn (4), a conventional polyethylene terephthalate
multi-filament yarn (56 d tex/144 filaments) was employed. A
stretchable, low water absorbent and low self elongative composite
yarn (B) was produced from the yarn (3) as a core yarn and the yarn
(4) as a sheath yarn, by a yarn-combining procedure in accordance
with a covering method at a draft (in %) of the core yarn of 30%
(1.3 times) at a covering number of the sheath yarn (4) of 1000
turns/m in the S direction.
[0158] The composite yarn (A) and the composite yarn (B) were
subjected as weft yarns to a weaving procedure. As a warp yarn, a
polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (5) having a yarn
count of 84 d tex/30 filaments was employed. The yarn (5) is formed
from individual filaments having a flat cross-sectional profile
with a flatness of 3.2, and having ridge (projecting) portions and
groove (constricted) portions formed in two sides with respect to
the major axis of the flat cross-sectional profile. In the profile,
the number of the groove portions was 3 and the number of the ridge
portions was 4 each per side of the profile.
[0159] A plain weave having a warp density of 117 yarns/25.4 mm and
a weft density of 107 yarns/25.4 mm was produced from a warp yarn
group consisting of the yarns (5) and a weft yarn group consisting
of the composite yarns (A) and the composite yarns (B) which were
alternately arranged with every 50 yarns.
[0160] The resultant plain weave was subjected to a wet heat
treatment at 95.degree. C. for 3 minutes and was dyed with a
disperse dye at 120.degree. C. for 45 minutes in a liquid stream
type dyeing machine. The dyed woven fabric was dry heat-treated in
a tenter at 160.degree. C. for one minute while expanding the
fabric at a expansion ratio of 1.1 in the cross direction of the
fabric.
[0161] The resultant plain weave exhibited a stretchability in the
weft direction. The stretch percentage of the plain weave in the
weft direction was 12%. Also, in the plain weave, the yarn length
ratio LA/LB of the composite yarns (A) to the composite yarns (B)
contained in the weft yarn group was 1.03 in dry condition and 1.15
in water-wetted condition. The change in the ruggedness of the
plain weave between the dry and wetted conditions was 496%. Also,
in the plain weave, the average yarn length ratio L1/L2 of the yarn
(1) to the yarn (2) contained in the composite yarns (A) in the
weft yarn group, and the average yarn length ratio L3/LB of the
yarn (3) to the yarn (4) in the composite yarn (4) was 0.73.
[0162] A sport shirt was produced from the stretchable plain weave
as mentioned above. It was confirmed that, when wetted with
perspiration during wearing of the shirt, a rugged pattern was
generated on the shirt, to decrease the sticking of the shirt to
the skin and the comfort of the shirt was good.
Example 2
[0163] A stretchable plain weave was produced by the same weaving,
dyeing and heat-setting procedures as in those in Example 1, except
that the as warp yarns, polyester multifilament yarn having a yarn
count of 84 d tex/72 filaments and thus a fine individual filament
thickness.
[0164] In the resultant stretchable plain weave, the yarn length
ratio LA/LB of the composite yarns (A) to the composite yarns (B)
used as weft yarns was 1.02 in dry condition and 1.14 in wetted
condition, and the ruggedness change occurred when wetted with
water was 487%.
[0165] Also, in the weft yarn group of the stretchable plain weave,
the average yarn length ratio L1/L2 of the yarns (1) to the yarns
(2) contained in the composite yarns (A) was 0.43, and the average
yarn length ratio L3/L4 of the yarns (3) to the yarns 4 contained
in the composite yarn (B) w 0.80.
[0166] The stretchable plain weave had a stretch percentage of 11%
in the weft direction.
[0167] A sport shirt was prepared from the stretchable plain weave
as mentioned above. It was confirmed that when wetted with
perspiration, during wearing of the shirt, a rugged pattern was
generated on the shirt to prevent the sticking of the shirt to the
skin, and the comfort of the shirt was good.
Comparative Example 1
[0168] A plain weave was produced by the same weaving, dyeing and
heat-setting procedures as in Example 1, except that the weft yarn
group consisted of only the composite yarns (A).
[0169] The resultant stretchable plain weave exhibited a stretch
percentage of 10% in the weft direction.
[0170] When the stretchable plain weave was wetted with water,
however, the plain weave evenly elongated in the warp direction and
substantially no rough pattern was generated on the fabric.
(Roughness change=0.5%)
[0171] A sport shirt was prepared from the above-mentioned plain
weave. It was found that when worn and wetted with perspiration,
the shirt elongated in the weft direction of the fabric but no
rough pattern was generated. Thus, the sticking of the shirt to the
skin could not be controlled and the comfort of the shirt was
unsatisfactory.
Example 3
[0172] A polyetherester polymer produced from 49.8 parts by mass of
polybutylene terephthalate for hard segments and 50.2 parts by mass
of polyoxyethylene glycol having a number average molecular weight
of 4,000 for soft segments melted at a temperature of 230.degree.
C. and extruded at an extrusion rate of 3.05 g/minute through a
melt spinneret. The extruded polymer filament was taken up at a
taking-up speed of 705 m/minute through two godet rollers and wound
up at a winding-up speed of 750 m/minute under a winding draft of
1.06, to provide a stretchable, high water absorbent and self
elongative yarn (1) having a yarn count of 44 d tex/1 filament. The
yarn (1) had a self elongation of 25% upon absorbing water in the
longitudinal axis direction thereof, and an elongation at break of
816%.
[0173] Also, as a low water absorbent and low self elongative yarn,
a false twist-textured yarn prepared by subjecting a conventional
polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn to a conventional
false twist-texturing procedure and having a yarn count of 56 d
tex/144 filaments, a self elongation less than 1% upon wetting with
water and an individual filament thickness of 0.39 d tex was
employed.
[0174] The yarns (1) and the yarns (2) were fed into a covering
type yarn-combining machine in which the yarns (1) were used as
core yarns, the yarns (2) were used as sheath yarns, and the core
yarns (1) were combined with the yarns (2) at a draft of the core
yarns (1) of 120% (1.2 times) at a covering number of the sheath
yarns (2) of 1000 turns/m in the S direction, to prepare a
stretchable composite yarn (A).
[0175] Separately, as a stretchable, low water absorbent and low
self elongative yarn (3), a stretchable polyetherester yarn
available under a trademark REXE, made by TEIJIN FIBERS, LTD, and
having a yarn count of 44 d tex/1 filament, a shrinkage in boiling
water of 24%, a self elongation upon absorbing water less than 1%
in the longitudinal axis direction of the yarn and an elongation at
break of 650% was employed, and as a non-stretchable, low water
absorbent and low self elongative yarn (4), a conventional
polyethylene terephthalate multi-filament yarn (56 d tex/144
filaments) having an individual filament thickness of 0.39 d tex
and a self elongation less than 1% upon absorbing water in the
filament axis direction, was employed. A stretchable, low water
absorbent and low self elongative composite yarn (B) was produced
from the yarns (3) used as core yarns and the yarns (4) used as
sheath yarns, by using a covering type yarn-combining machine at a
draft (in %) of the core yarns of 300% (3.0 times) at a covering
number of the sheath yarn (4) of 1000 turns/m in the S direction,
separately, a polyethylene terephthalate multi-filament yarn was
subjected to a false twist-texturing treatment, to prepare a false
twist-textured polyester yarn having a yarn count of 84 d tex/72
filaments, and an individual filament thickness of 1.17 d tex.
[0176] The resultant two yarns were combined with each other while
twisting the resultant combined yarn at a twist number of 200
turns/m in the S direction, to provide a combined and twisted
polyester yarn (5).
[0177] A woven fabric was produced from the combined and twisted
polyester yarns (5) used as warp yarns and the above-mentioned
composite yarns (A) and (B) used as weft yarns, in the woven fabric
structure as shown in FIG. 10, in which the composite yarns (A) and
the composite yarns (B) are alternately arranged with every one
yarn. The resultant woven fabric had a warp density of 135
yarns/3.79 cm and a weft density of 215 yarns/3.79 cm. The
resultant woven fabric was a weft two ply structured woven fabric
having a surface formed mainly from the composite yarns (1) and an
other surface formed mainly from the composite yarns (2).
[0178] The resultant woven fabric was subjected to a wet heat
treatment at 95.degree. C. for 3 minutes and was dyed with a
disperse dye at 120.degree. C. for 45 minutes in a liquid stream
type dyeing machine.
[0179] The surface of the dyed woven fabric which surface was
mainly formed from the composite yarns (B) was coated with an
aqueous water repellent treating liquid containing 3.0% by mass of
a fluorine-containing water repellent agent (trademark: ASAHIGUARD
AG 7101, made by ASAHI Glass CO.) by a roller printing method,
dried at 120.degree. C., and dry heated in a tenter at 160.degree.
C. for 45 seconds, while expanding in the cross-direction the
fabric at a expansion rate of 1.1.
[0180] The resultant two ply structured woven fabric exhibited the
following performance. TABLE-US-00002 Air permeability 1.40
ml/cm.sup.2 s Hydraulic pressure resistance on a 175 mm H.sub.2O
surface formed mainly from the composite yarns (B) Water repellency
of a surface Class 5 mainly formed from the composite yarns (B)
Water absorption of a surface 5.5 seconds mainly formed from the
composite yarns (A) Roughness change 25% Comfort Class 3
[0181] A cloth for sports wear was prepared from the two ply
structured woven fabric and worn. It was found that the surface
mainly formed from the composite yarns (B) could prevent
penetration of rain water and the other surface mainly formed from
the composite yarns (A) could prevent or decrease sticky feel of
the cloth to the skin when perspirated and stuffy feel of the cloth
and the comfort of the cloth was good.
Example 4
[0182] A two ply structured woven fabric was produced by the same
weaving, dyeing, water repellent-treating and heat treating
procedures as those in Example 3, except that, as warp yarns,
combined yarns produced by subjecting polyethylene terephthalate
multi-filament yarns (having a self elongation less than 1% upon
absorbing water) to a false twist-texturing procedure, paralleling
two of the resultant polyester false twist-textured yarns (having a
yarn count of 84 d tex/36 filaments and an individual filament
thickness of 2.3 d tex to each other, and twisting the resultant
double yarns at a twist number of 200 turns/m in the S direction,
were employed.
[0183] The resultant two ply structured woven fabric exhibited the
following performance. TABLE-US-00003 Water repellency of the
surface 6.4 seconds not treated with water repellent agent
Roughness change 22% Comfort Class 3 Air permeability 5.5
ml/cm.sup.2 s Hydraulic pressure resistance on 80 mm H.sub.2O the
surface treated with the water repellent agent
[0184] A cloth for sports wear was prepared from the
above-mentioned fabric and worn. The comfort of the cloth was good,
while the waterproofing property of the cloth was slightly lower
than that of Example 1, as the non-stretchable, low water absorbent
and low self elongative yarns (2) to be contained in the composite
yarns (A), false twist-textured yarns (having a yarn count of 56 d
tex/24 filaments and an individual filament thickness of 2.3 d tex)
produced by false twist texturing polyethylene terephthalate
multi-filament yarns (having a self elongation less than 1% upon
absorbing water), were employed. TABLE-US-00004 Air permeability
1.5 ml/cm.sup.2 s Hydraulic pressure resistance of 170 mm H.sub.2O
the water repellent-treated surface Water repellency of the water
Class 5 repellent-treated surface Comfort Class 2 Roughness change
8%
[0185] A cloth for sports wear was prepared from the
above-mentioned fabric and worn. The waterproofing property of the
cloth was satisfactory, while the comfort of the cloth was slightly
lower than that in Example 1.
Example 6
[0186] Composite yarns (A) were produced by the same procedures as
in Example 3, except that in the yarn-combining procedure, the
draft of the yarns (1) was changed to 300% (3 times).
[0187] Composite yarns (B) were produced by the same procedures as
in Example 3.
[0188] Separately, twisted yarns were produced by twisting each of
the same false twist textured polyethylene terephthalate
multi-filament yarns having a yarn count of 84 d tex/72 filaments
and an individual filament thickness of 1.17 d tex as those used in
Example 1, at a twist number of 300 turns/m in the S direction, and
were employed as warp yarns for weaving.
[0189] A two ply structured woven fabric having a warp density of
188 yarns/3.79 cm and a weft density of 157 yarns/3.79 cm was
produced from the composite yarns (A) and the composite yarns (B)
used as weft yarns and the above-mentioned warp yarns, in
accordance with the two ply weaving structure as shown in FIG. 11.
A surface of the two ply structured woven fabric was mainly formed
from the composite yarns (A) and the other surface of the fabric
was mainly formed from the composite yarns (B).
[0190] The two ply structured woven fabric was dyed, water
repellent-treated and heat threated in the same procedures as in
Example 3.
[0191] The resultant two ply structured woven fabric exhibited the
following performance. TABLE-US-00005 Air permeability 4.50
ml/cm.sup.2 s Hydraulic pressure resistance of 120 mm H.sub.2O
water repellent-treated surface Water repellency of water Class 5
repellent-treated surface Water absorption of non-water 8.2 seconds
repellent-treated surface Roughness change 40% Comfort Class 3
[0192] A cloth for sports wear was prepared from the
above-mentioned two ply structured woven fabric and worn. The
waterproofing property and confortability (stick-preventing
property of the cloth to the skin when wetted with perspiration,
and stuffiness-preventing property) were good.
Example 7
[0193] A two ply structured woven fabric was produced by the same
procedures as in Example 6, wet heat-treated at 95.degree. C. for 3
minutes; and dyed with a disperse dye at 120.degree. C. for 45
minutes in a liquid stream type dyeing machine. Then the dyed woven
fabric was immersed in a treating liquid containing 5.0% by mass of
a water absorbing agent (trademark: YM-81, made by TAKAMATSU YUSHI
K.K.); squeezed to an extent allowing the water absorbing agent in
an amount of 120% to be impregnated in the fabric; dried at a
temperature of 120.degree. C.; and then heat-treated in a tenter at
160.degree. C. for 45 seconds while expanding the fabric at a
expansion ratio of 1.2 in the cross direction of the fabric.
[0194] The resultant two ply structured woven fabric exhibited the
following performance. TABLE-US-00006 Air permeability 4.50
ml/cm.sup.2 s Water absorption in the surface 1.5 seconds mainly
formed from the composite yarns (A) Roughness change 40% Comfort
Class 3
[0195] A cloth for sports wear was prepared from the
above-mentioned two ply structured woven fabric and worn. During
the wearing, a slick feeling of the cloth to the skin, when
perspiring was small, the stuffy feeling was little, and the
comfort was good.
* * * * *