U.S. patent application number 11/132818 was filed with the patent office on 2006-11-23 for cosmetic composition system with thickening benefits.
Invention is credited to Bryan Michael Kadlubowski, Thomas Elliott Rabe, Peter Jonathan Wyatt.
Application Number | 20060260633 11/132818 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 36716970 |
Filed Date | 2006-11-23 |
United States Patent
Application |
20060260633 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Wyatt; Peter Jonathan ; et
al. |
November 23, 2006 |
Cosmetic composition system with thickening benefits
Abstract
A cosmetic system comprising, in combination: (a) a cosmetic
applicator comprising a substantially longitudinal stem having a
major axis A and a plurality of protrusions extending therefrom,
wherein at least two adjacent protrusions are spaced from one
another at a distance R at the base of the stem; (b) a cosmetic
composition comprising primary particles that are at least about 5
microns in equivalent diameter; and (c) a dermatologically
acceptable carrier.
Inventors: |
Wyatt; Peter Jonathan;
(Forest Hill, MD) ; Kadlubowski; Bryan Michael;
(Manchester, MD) ; Rabe; Thomas Elliott;
(Baltimore, MD) |
Correspondence
Address: |
THE PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY;INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY DIVISION
WINTON HILL BUSINESS CENTER - BOX 161
6110 CENTER HILL AVENUE
CINCINNATI
OH
45224
US
|
Family ID: |
36716970 |
Appl. No.: |
11/132818 |
Filed: |
May 19, 2005 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
132/218 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/8111 20130101;
A61K 2800/412 20130101; A61K 2800/48 20130101; A45D 40/262
20130101; A46B 2200/1053 20130101; A46B 2200/106 20130101; B29C
45/16 20130101; B29C 45/2626 20130101; B29C 2045/167 20130101; A61K
8/19 20130101; A61K 2800/43 20130101; A61K 8/027 20130101; B33Y
80/00 20141201; A61K 8/891 20130101; A61Q 1/10 20130101; A61K 8/11
20130101; A46B 9/021 20130101; A61K 8/88 20130101; A61K 8/8152
20130101; A61K 8/92 20130101; A46B 1/00 20130101; B29L 2031/42
20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
132/218 |
International
Class: |
A45D 40/26 20060101
A45D040/26 |
Claims
1. A cosmetic system comprising, in combination: (a) a cosmetic
applicator comprising a substantially longitudinal stem having a
major axis A and a plurality of protrusions extending therefrom,
wherein at least two adjacent protrusions are spaced from one
another at a distance R at the base of the stem; (b) a cosmetic
composition comprising primary particles that are at least about 5
microns in equivalent diameter; and (c) a dermatologically
acceptable carrier.
2. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the primary particle is
less than about 50 microns in equivalent diameter.
3. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the cosmetic applicator
is an injection-molded applicator.
4. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the distance R is from
about 0.2 mm to about 3.0 mm.
5. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the protrusions are
oriented in substantially parallel rows and wherein adjacent
protrusions within the same row are angled the same relative to the
major axis A.
6. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the protrusions of the
cosmetic applicator are perpendicular relative to the major axis
A.
7. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the primary particle is
selected from particles consisting of solid particles, hollow
particles, porous particles, and mixtures thereof.
8. The cosmetic system of claim 7 wherein the primary particle
comprises at least one wax particle having a melt point of from
about 40.degree. C. to about 150.degree. C.
9. The cosmetic system of claim 8 wherein the at least one wax
particle maintains at least some of its size and shape through
processing and application onto lashes.
10. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the primary particle is
select from the group consisting of thermoplastic polymeric
particles, thermoset polymeric particles, and mixtures thereof.
11. The cosmetic system of claim 10 wherein the primary particle
has a glass transition temperature (Tg) of from about -100.degree.
C. to about 300.degree. C.
12. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the primary particle
comprises at least one plasticizer.
13. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the primary particle is
an inorganic material.
14. The cosmetic system of claim 7 wherein the primary particle is
structured to absorb a liquid.
15. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the cosmetic composition
further comprises at least one secondary particle that is from
about 1 micron to about 49 microns in equivalent diameter and is
structured to pack between the primary particles in the cosmetic
composition.
16. The cosmetic system of claim 15 wherein at least one secondary
particle is selected from shapes consisting of spheres, ovals,
irregular, platelets, and mixtures thereof.
17. The cosmetic system of claim 16 wherein the secondary particles
are platelets having a dimension of at least about 10 microns to
about 200 microns.
18. The cosmetic system of claim 15 wherein the ratio of a combined
volume of primary and secondary particles to a volume of the total
composition is from about 1:20 to about 10:1.
19. The cosmetic system of claim 15 wherein the primary and
secondary particles are coated.
20. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the composition is
selected from the group consisting of anhydrous, oil-in-water
emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, water-in-silicone emulsions,
silicone-in-water emulsions, multiple emulsions and mixtures
thereof.
21. The cosmetic system of claim 19 wherein at least some of the
primary particles are structured to swell to at least about 5
microns in equivalent diameter.
22. The cosmetic system of claim 21 wherein at least some particles
are swelled by a solvent that is applied as a topcoat.
23. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the cosmetic system is
packaged as a product selected from unitary packaging and separate
packaging.
24. A cosmetic system comprising, in combination: (a) a cosmetic
applicator comprising a substantially longitudinal stem having a
major axis A and a plurality of protrusions extending therefrom,
wherein each protrusion is spaced from one another at a distance R
along the base of the stem; (b) a cosmetic composition comprising
primary particles that are at least about 5 microns in equivalent
diameter in a dermatologically acceptable carrier; and (c) a
cosmetic composition comprising primary particles that are at least
about 5 microns in equivalent diameter wherein the system is
structured such that (c) is applied as a secondary coat to the
combination of (a) and (b).
25. The cosmetic system of claim 24 wherein the distance R is from
about 0.2 mm to about 3.0 mm.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic system
containing a cosmetic composition comprising one or more particle
types for coating the lashes in combination with a particularly
designed molded applicator for use in the cosmetic field on
keratinous fibers, particularly for making up the eyelashes and
eyebrows.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Mascaras are a major cosmetic product of significant
importance to the cosmetic industry. They are used to enhance the
beauty of a person's eyes by coating the eyelashes, and in some
cases, the eyebrows, to primarily thicken, lengthen, color, curl,
and define the individual lashes.
[0003] Mascaras come in a variety of forms including cakes or
blocks, creams, gels, semi-solids, and low viscosity liquids. Cake
mascaras were originally the most popular form consisting of at
least 50% soap with the pigment mixed in with the soap cakes. With
a wet brush, the mascara could be lathered and then applied to the
lashes resulting in a satisfactory smooth application, but with a
thin cosmetic coating on the individual lashes. The primary
drawback was that the film on the lashes was very water soluble and
prone to smudging and running on the skin around the perimeter of
the eye. As a resolution, waxes were incorporated into mascara
compositions thereby improving their water-resistant properties.
Unfortunately, the smoolhness of the application was adversely
affected. That is, as the viscosity of the mascara formulation
increased, it became increasingly harder to apply, messier, and
yielded less separation of the lashes.
[0004] With the advent of mascara applicators (formerly referred to
as "automatic" applicators) a means for expanding formulation
options for mascaras came into existence. Creams, for example,
combined with a twisted metal wire brush or wand application
provided a convenient use and composition that enabled the
incorporation of film formers to improve the rubbing resistance and
flexibility of mascara films. This also allowed a convenient
implement to separate and build the lashes. Today, there are
several types of mascara formulations including anhydrous,
water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, and water-based
mascaras that contain little or no oil phase. The emulsions,
previously mentioned, may also be multiple emulsions for example,
but not limited to water-in-oil-in-water emulsion. Many mascaras
are water-based emulsions and contain emulsified waxes and polymers
usually with pigments dispersed into the water phase. The water
provides curling and application properties, while the waxes and
polymers create the transfer resistant end mascara film on the lash
that is colored by the pigments. Anhydrous and water-in-oil
mascaras are generally referred to as waterproof mascaras, as they
have superior transfer resistance, especially to water. Their high
content of hydrophobic materials creates a film which contains very
little materials that allow water to break up the film and make it
wear away. In the case of the water-in-oil mascaras, the internal
droplets of water can deliver water-soluble/dispersible materials
that would otherwise not be able to be incorporated into an oily
phase. The water-based mascaras are typically gelled water with a
polymer to create deposition and hold of the lashes. These mascaras
usually do not have colorants, although colorants can be added
in.
[0005] Consumers expect particular properties from their mascara
products such as adhesion to the lashes, lengthening/curling of the
lashes, lack of smudging or flaking, thick lashes, and good
separation of clumps of lashes. Particularly, the desire is for
long, luscious, full, soft, and separated lashes. Mascaras
generally distribute a smooth and relatively thin (coating
thickness) film over the eyelashes producing a satisfactory array
of reasonably separated lashes that are darker and thicker than
bare lashes, making the eyes more noticeably beautiful. It is well
understood that some lash clumping will naturally occur since
lashes are arranged in both rows and columns above and below one's
eye. Therefore, "reasonably separated" lashes are not necessarily
envisioning every lash as a single entity. Mascara that is deemed
by a user to separate well will leave more clumps of lashes than
mascara that is deemed not to separate lashes well. Typically, the
deposition of mascara has a coating that is 5-15 microns thick.
Many "volumizing" mascaras, however, are messy and clumpy and tend
to clump too many lashes together in a thick, less separated look
which gives the look of fewer lashes.
[0006] Notwithstanding the above, the present inventors have found
a system which combines a large particle-containing mascara
composition in combination with a molded applicator that is
designed in such a way as to allow large particle transfer and
compositions comprising the same in addition to sufficient lash
combing. Such combination will thicken the diameter of lashes while
keeping them well separated, leaving the appearance of thick,
well-separated, and beautiful lashes.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0007] The present invention relates to a system for a cosmetic
composition and a method for using the same. For example, a system
for a mascara composition for depositing a thicker coating of
mascara on the lashes while minimizing the clumping of lashes
together. Specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic
system comprising, in combination: (a) a cosmetic applicator
comprising a substantially longitudinal stem having a major axis A
and a plurality of protrusions extending therefrom, wherein at
least two adjacent protrusions are spaced from one another at a
distance R at the base of the stem; (b) a cosmetic composition
comprising primary particles that are at least about 5 microns in
equivalent diameter; and (c) a dermatologically acceptable
carrier.
[0008] Another embodiment of the present invention relates to a
cosmetic system for applying more than one coat of mascara to the
body of the eyelashes comprising, in combination: (a) a cosmetic
applicator comprising a substantially longitudinal stem having a
major axis A and a plurality of protrusions extending therefrom,
wherein at least two adjacent protrusions are spaced from one
another at a distance R at the base of the stem; (b) a cosmetic
composition comprising primary particles that are at least about 5
microns in equivalent diameter in a dermatologically acceptable
carrier; and (c) a cosmetic composition comprising primary
particles that are at least about 5 microns in equivalent diameter
wherein the system is structured such that (c) is applied as a
secondary coat to the combination of (a) and (b).
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0009] FIG. 1 is a side view of an embodiment of a brush according
to the invention;
[0010] FIG. 1-A is a fragment of a side view of an embodiment of a
brush according to the invention showing differential spacing of
adjacent protrusions;
[0011] FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view of the brush of FIG. 1,
taken along lines 2-2; and
[0012] FIGS. 3 to 6 are perspective views of various embodiments of
selected protrusions of the brush of the present invention.
[0013] FIG. 7 is a plan view of an exemplary embodiment of the
protrusion having a depression intermediate the base of the
protrusion and the end thereof.
[0014] FIG. 8 is a schematic cross-sectional view of an embodiment
of a support form that can be used for making the brush of the
present invention by injection molding.
[0015] FIG. 9 is a schematic cross-sectional and partial view of
the form shown in FIG. 8, taken along lines 9-9, and showing a
cross-section of a selected protrusion-forming channel having a
protuberance therein.
[0016] FIG. 10 is a schematic cross-sectional view taken along
lines 10-10 of FIG. 9, and showing a plan view of one embodiment of
the protuberance of the protrusion-forming channel.
[0017] FIG. 11 is a schematic perspective view of one embodiment of
the protrusion-forming channels.
[0018] FIGS. 12 to 13 is a side view of an embodiment of a brush
according to the invention showing a mixture of obtuse and acutely
angled protrusions.
[0019] FIG. 14 is a side view of an embodiment of a brush according
to the invention showing the protrusions at obtuse angles.
[0020] FIG. 15 is a side view of an embodiment of a brush according
to the invention showing the protrusions at acute angles.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0021] While the specification concludes with the claims
particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the invention, it
is believed that the present invention will be better understood
from the following description.
[0022] As used herein, "comprising" means that other steps and
ingredients can be added. This term encompasses the terms
"consisting of" and "consisting essentially of". The phrase
"consisting essentially of" means that the composition may include
additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do
not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the
claimed compositions or methods.
[0023] All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total
weight of the topical compositions of the present invention and all
measurements made are at 25.degree. C., unless otherwise specified.
All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on
the active level and, therefore; do not include carriers or
by-products that may be included in commercially available
materials, unless otherwise specified.
[0024] The term "specific gravity", unless otherwise noted, is the
specific gravity of the particle calculated based on the mass and
volume exhibited by the particles themselves. For example, in
determining the specific gravity of a hollow particle, the volume
of the particle is calculated using the outer-shell diameter. The
specific gravity is not a bulk specific gravity which includes
volume contributions from voids in between particles. It is the
average specific gravity of the individual particles. Methods for
measuring specific gravity of particles are well disclosed in the
art.
[0025] The term "make-up" refers to products that leave color on
the face, including on the eyelashes, eyebrows, cheeks, lips, etc.
. . .
[0026] As used herein, the term "keratinous fibers" refers
particularly to mammalian (e.g., human or animal) hair such as hair
on the head or body, brows and eyelashes.
[0027] "Protrusions", as used herein, refers to surface extensions
that protrude from the stem of the cosmetic applicator of the
present invention. The protrusions may extend perpendicularly or at
an angle relative to the major axis A. If the protrusions are
aligned in a row on the stem, the angle of the protrusions may be
the same as the angle of the adjacent protrusion within that row.
The protrusions are intended to pass between adjacent keratinous
fibers as the applicator is stroked across the keratinous fibers,
particularly lashes. In the case of mascara compositions, the
primary function of protrusions is to deposit mascara on the lashes
and separate lashes.
[0028] The term "dermatologically-acceptable," as used herein,
means that the compositions or components thereof so described are
suitable for use in contact with mammalian keratinous tissue
without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic
response, and the like.
[0029] The term "safe and effective amount" as used herein means an
amount of a compound or composition sufficient to significantly
induce a positive benefit, preferably a positive keratinous tissue
appearance or feel benefit, including independently or in
combinations the benefits disclosed herein, but low enough to avoid
serious side effects, i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit to risk
ratio, within the scope of sound judgment of the skilled
artisan.
[0030] The compositions of the present invention comprise the
following ingredients.
A. Applicator Brush
[0031] Conventional mascara applicators are typically composed of a
stem formed by helically twist of two strands of metal wire and
bristles which are radially implanted into the core and tightly
held between the wound metal strands. A principle limitation of
such an applicator is that the bristles are randomly positioned and
terminate at the wire strands in very close proximity to one
another. Each bristle has a varying distance between itself and
other bristles as one moves both along the length of the bristle or
along the length of the stem.
[0032] The applicators of the present invention exhibit a
substantially longitudinal stem having a major axis A and a
plurality of protrusions extending therefrom; wherein at least two
adjacent protrusions are spaced from one another at a distance R at
the base of the stem. For example, FIG. 1-A shows differential
distances of R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3, generically described
as R. The distance R is measured from the base of one protrusion to
the base of the adjacent protrusion. This measurement includes, but
is not limited to, adjacent protrusions along the major axis,
adjacent protrusions vertically positioned from each other,
adjacent protrusions positioned diagonally from each other, or
adjacent protrusions within a circumference of each other. (FIG. 2)
The present invention may R to be from about 0.2 mm, from about 0.5
mm, from about 0.75 mm or from about 0.85 mm but no more than about
1 mm, no more than about 2 mm or no more than about 3 mm. The gaps
between the protrusions are engineered to allow for both good
quality separation of lashes and the transfer of large particles
and compositions thereof, such as those described herein under
"Composition", from the applicator to the lashes. Additionally, the
protrusions may be oriented in rows along the length of the stem.
For example, the protrusions may be oriented such that they are in
rows substantially parallel to the major axis A, substantially
perpendicular to the major axis A or they may be positioned
radially in relation to the major axis A.
[0033] FIG. 1 shows, generally, an embodiment of a brush 10 of the
present invention comprising a substantially longitudinal core, or
stem, 260 having a longitudinal, or major, axis A, and a plurality
of protrusions 50 extending therefrom. Each protrusion has a base
associated with the stem and a free end opposite to the base. Each
protrusion has external walls and a longitudinal axis B oriented
along the length of the protrusion (FIG. 5). The walls of the
protrusion 50 can be concave, round, planar, or convex, FIGS.
3-5.
[0034] The embodiment of FIG. 1 also has an optional stem 20 that,
via an optional locking groove 30, that can be attached to a handle
(not shown). The brush 10 may be trimmed, to change the length of
some protrusions or otherwise form a particular configuration of
the brush 10 in a cross-section perpendicular to the major axis A.
For example, FIG. 2 shows that the trimming can be made to comprise
an envelope curve 60 of approximately triangular shape with rounded
or skewed corners 70 so that the protrusions 50 have differential
lengths. The same effect can be achieved by using a process of the
present invention, and without trimming, as described in co-pending
application to Dumler, et al., filed Oct. 1, 2004.
[0035] In one embodiment, at least some of the protrusions 50 may
have at least one external depression 120 in their walls as
described in co-pending application to Dumler, et al., filed Oct.
1, 2004. These protrusions are termed herein as "selected
protrusions," because the process of the present invention
(described herein below) allows one to design what protrusions
should be structured to have at least one external depression. The
depressions of the selected protrusions can be oriented in a
direction parallel to the longitudinal axes B of the protrusions,
or, alternatively or additionally, can be disposed at free ends of
the protrusions.
[0036] Protrusions 50 can comprise protrusions having a generally
round cross-section (FIGS. 4 and 6), protrusions 50b having a
generally oblong, or elongated, cross-section (FIGS. 3 and 5), or
protrusions having any other suitable general cross-section, for
example, polygonal. As used herein, the term "oblong" refers to a
geometrical shape that generally has unequal dimensions in two
mutually perpendicular directions. The selected protrusion can have
any suitable shape in its cross-section perpendicular to the
protrusion's longitudinal axis. For example, the selected
protrusion can have a cross-section that includes oblong, polygon,
circular, trapezoid, or any other shape.
[0037] The number of the depressions 120 per the selected
protrusion can vary. For example, the selected protrusion can have
one, two, three, four, and more depressions 120. In the selected
protrusions having more than one depression 120, the location of
the depressions may vary. For example, in the selected protrusions
having two depressions 120, the depressions can be located opposite
to each other, FIGS. 3 and 5. In the selected protrusion having
three, four, or more depressions 120, the depressions can be spaced
substantially equidistantly from one another, as viewed in the
cross-section perpendicular to the longitudinal axis B of the
selected protrusion (FIGS. 3-5) or can be differentially spaced
from one another (not shown). In the embodiments shown in FIGS.
3-5, the depressions 120 extend through the entire length of the
selected protrusion. In other embodiments, the depression or
depressions 120 can extend only through a portion of the selected
protrusion, as shown, for example, in FIG. 7. The depression can
extend from the base of the selected protrusion and terminate
before it reaches the free end of the selected protrusion; or the
depression can extend from the free end of the selected protrusion
and terminate before it reaches the base of the selected
protrusion. The embodiment may be contemplated in which the
selected protrusion has more than one depression wherein at least
one depression extends through the entire length of the protrusion,
and the other depression or depressions extends only through a
portion of the length of the protrusion in any manner described
herein above.
[0038] The protrusions 50 may have differential lengths. In one
embodiment, for example, the lengths of the protrusions 50 may be
such that the ends of several protrusions consecutively disposed
next to one another, as viewed in a cross-section of the brush
perpendicular to the major axis A, form an imaginary line that is
straight (FIG. 3, line 60). In another embodiment, such a line can
be concave (not shown) or convex (FIG. 3, line 70). Thus, in its
cross-section perpendicular to the major axis A, the brush may or
may not be circumferentially symmetrical.
[0039] The protrusions 50 can be made to gradually taper from the
base towards the free end (FIGS. 1-6). Alternatively, the
protrusions 50 may have a generally uniform thickness (with the
exception of the selected protrusions, cross-sections of which are
at least partially affected by the longitudinal depression), or
taper from the free ends towards the bases of the protrusions 50
(not shown).
[0040] In one embodiment, the ends of at least some of the
protrusions 50 may have concave depression 110, FIG. 4. Those
concave depressions 110 are different and distinct from the
depressions 120 in the walls of the protrusions, for the
depressions 110 in the free ends of the protrusions 50 are not
disposed longitudinally in relation to the longitudinal axes B of
the protrusions 50. In some embodiments of the brush of the present
invention, the selected protrusions can have both the longitudinal
depression or depressions 120 and the concave depression 110 at the
free end of the selected protrusion.
[0041] The longitudinal axes B of the protrusions 50 and the major
axis A of the brush 10 can be mutually perpendicular. The
embodiment may be contemplated when they are not mutually
perpendicular, i.e., the axes B of at least some of the protrusions
50 and the major axis A of the brush 10 may form acute angles,
obtuse angles, angles there between, and mixtures thereof, FIGS. 12
to 15.
[0042] The brush of the present invention can be made by using a
variety of techniques known in the art such as assembly of stacked
disks, Stereolithography (SLA) of suitable resins, or
single/multiple part "injection molding." Particularly, injection
molding is, in essence, a process wherein molten plastic is
deposited under pressure, or injected, into a closed form having a
cavity of a desired shape, to fill the cavity, then cooled to
solidify in the cavity, and then released from the cavity. One
skilled in the art will appreciate that using the injection molding
process, it is possible to form virtually any desired configuration
of the protrusions, including the selected protrusions of the
present invention. In addition, the injection molding technique
allows one to control the length of individual protrusions, so that
trimming of the finished brush may not be needed in order to form a
certain cross-sectional profile of the brush, as shown, for
example, in FIG. 2.
[0043] The brush of the present invention can be made by an
injection-molding process, for example using a multi-component
molding injection machine 200, schematically shown in FIG. 8.
First, a hollow stem 260 is provided. The hollow stem 260 can be
made from any suitable material, for example, plastic or resin such
as polypropylene, and may include any suitable thermoplastic or
thermosetting materials. The hollow stem 260 can be formed by
injection-molding or any other means known in the art. As an
example, in FIG. 8, the hollow stem 260 is formed and disposed in
the injection machine 200. The hollow stem 260 may comprise any
suitable shape in its cross-section perpendicular to the major
axis, for example, cylindrical (shown in the exemplary embodiment
of FIG. 1), rectangular, triangular, circular, polygonal, or any
combination thereof, or any other shape, including irregular
geometric shape (not shown).
[0044] A plurality of protrusion-forming channels 250 is provided.
The protrusion-forming channels 250 are disposed so that their
entrances abut the hollow stem 260 in predetermined locations in
which the protrusions 50 of the brush being constructed should be
disposed after the brush has been constructed. The overall
configuration and geometry of the protrusion-forming channels 250
corresponds to the desired overall geometry and configuration of
the brush being made. Each of the protrusion-forming channels 250
terminates with an end and has a predetermined length. Depending on
the size and length of the protrusion-forming channels 250, the
protrusion-forming channels 250 can be made by any means known in
the art, for example using conventional drilling techniques, laser,
chemical erosion, wire electrical discharge machine (EDM), or any
other suitable means. The protrusion-forming channels 250 can be
formed, for example, by a plurality of coated plates 300 (FIG. 11)
disposed consecutively adjacent to one another, wherein mutually
adjacent plates 300 have surface patterns that form, in
combination, a desired profile of the protrusion-forming channels
250.
[0045] In accordance with the present invention, the plurality of
protrusion-forming channels 250 may include selected
protrusion-forming channels 250a, i.e., the channels that are
structured to form the selected protrusions having at least one
external depression 120 thereon, as described herein above. For
this purpose, each of the selected protrusion-forming channels 250a
has at least one protuberance 290 therein. The protuberance or
protuberances 290 can be disposed along the length of the selected
protrusion-forming channel 250a, at the end of the selected
protrusion-forming channels 250a, or both, depending on a desired
configuration of the selected protrusion being formed.
[0046] In the next step, a second moldable material 270 is
injected, under pressure, into the hollow stem, to form the
protrusions (FIG. 8). The second moldable material can comprise the
material identical to the first moldable material, or,
alternatively, may differ therefrom. Only for the purposes for
example, the second moldable material can comprise any suitable
thermoplastic elastomer (TPE), such as, for example,
styrene-ethylene-butylene-styrene (SEBS) block copolymer. The
pressure under which the second moldable material 270 is injected
should be sufficient to rapture the hollow stem 260 and form
perforations in locations corresponding to the protrusion-forming
channels 250 and further to fully fill the protrusion-forming
channels 250 with the second moldable material 270 so that the
second moldable material 270 assumes the shape of the
protrusion-forming channels 250. These perforations formed in the
stem 260 serve, in effect, as spinnerets for the second moldable
material. The second moldable material 270 that fills, under
pressure, the selected protrusion-forming channels 250 forms the
selected protrusions that have external depressions described
herein above, the depressions being a "negative" of the
protuberances 290 of the selected protrusion-forming channels
250a.
[0047] After the second moldable material 270 solidify in the
protrusion-forming channels 250, the brush comprising the stem 260
and the plurality of protrusions 50 extending therefrom can be
released from the injection machine. If the plurality of plates 300
is used to form the protrusion-forming channels 250, the plates 300
can be moved apart from one another, thereby releasing the formed
protrusions 50.
[0048] If desired, an optional step of injecting a third moldable
material 280 (FIG. 8) into the hollow stem 260 to fill the stem
260, can be used. When the process is completed, the protrusions 50
are integrally bound to the third material 280 that has filled the
stem 260. The third moldable material can comprise a material
identical to at least one of the first moldable material or the
second moldable material, or can be chosen to be different from
either the first moldable material or the second moldable
material.
B. Composition
[0049] Compositions of the present invention are formulated such
that when combined with the applicator brush disclosed herein, will
deposit a thick coating of large particles, designated "primary
particles" or a cosmetic composition comprising the same onto
keratinous fibers. In the case of mascara compositions, such a
formulation will help to improve volume of lashes.
[0050] Primary or secondary particles of the present invention may
be produced from inorganic or organic material that is
non-irritating and nontoxic for use on keratinous fiber. The
primary particles are considered large since they are found in the
present invention to be above about 5 microns in equivalent
diameter. Particles of the present invention are measured by their
"equivalent diameter" wherein "equivalent diameter" includes the
diameter of a circular particle or the diameter of the circle in
which the cross-section of a non-circular particle is inscribed.
There are particles, however, of the present invention that are
considered primary particles even if they may initially be less
than 5 microns in equivalent diameter. Because some particles may
increase their size after application to keratinous fiber, primary
particles suitable for the present invention may also comprise
those particles that are initially less than 5 microns equivalent
diameter but swell to a size greater than 5 microns in equivalent
diameter by any chemical or physical means. For example, if a
mascara composition is used, particles that are initially less than
about 5 microns in equivalent diameter may be used but at some
point after the particles are deposited onto the lashes, the
particles are swelled to a size suitable for the present invention
which, is no less than about 5 microns, no less than about 10
microns, or no less than about 15 microns and no more than about
100 microns, no more than about 75 microns, or no more than about
50 microns in equivalent diameter. Therefore, "primary particles
that are at least about 5 micorons" includes primary particles that
are initially at least about 5 microns in equivalent diameter or
primary particles that have increased to a size of at least about 5
microns in equivalent diameter by any chemical or physical means.
Such dimensions will enable a mascara film of about 5 to about 100
microns in equivalent diameter to deposit onto the lash which will
provide the user with an impression of noticeable lashes.
[0051] The molded applicator disclosed herein, is designed to
transfer particles of this magnitude from the holding vessel to the
lash without filtering out or losing the particles. Such applicator
will also sufficiently comb or separate the lashes to achieve the
desired look.
[0052] The primary particles of the composition may be solid,
hollow, or porous. When the particles employed in accordance with
the present invention are porous particles, their range
corresponds, for example, to a surface area of at least about 0.25
m2/g, at least about 0.5 m2/g, or at least about 1 m2/g. For
example, microporous particles sold by Dow Coming under the trade
name Polytrap Q5-6603.RTM. or those sold by LCW under the trade
name Covabead LH 170.RTM. which is about 9 microns in diameter and
about 170 m.sup.2/g surface area are examples of porous particles.
Primary particles of the present invention may also be hydrophilic
or hydrophobic. They may also be spherical, oval, ovoid, platelet,
star, rod, cubic or irregularly shaped. As used herein,
"irregularly shaped" is considered to be any shape that is not
included as spherical, oval, ovoid, platelet, star, rod or cubic.
In order to build film thickness as the primary benefit on
keratinous surfaces, the dimensions of the particles useful in the
present invention should be at least about 1 micron. "Dimension",
as used herein, include, but is not limited to height, width,
length, and diameter. This is intended to ensure that particles of
the present invention rise above the keratinous substrate at least
5 microns in equivalent diameter. In the case of mascara
compositions, platelets tend to be too thin and do not stack
efficiently to create a thick coating of mascara on the lash.
Therefore, for mascara compositions of the present invention, flat
platelets as a primary particle, while possible and useful, are a
shape less desired.
[0053] The primary particles may be composed primarily of a wax or
a combination of waxes. In mascara compositions, waxes are
typically from about 0% to about 40% as a hydrophobic material that
will add bulkiness to the mascara coating and hold the curl of the
lashes in place. While these waxes are typically emulsified or
dispersed into the carrier vehicle, their "particulate" nature
readily breaks down when the mascara is applied from aggregated wax
particles to much smaller (typically less than 5 microns in
equivalent diameter and often indistinguishable as a particle since
they form a more continuous film) and typically platelet-shaped
sheets of wax that interlock together to form a relatively smooth
film on the lash. Large wax particles, however, between about 5
microns to about 2000 microns in equivalent diameter can be
pre-formed, before addition to the mascara formulation, using
processes known in the art such as spray drying and fluidized bed
processing. These processes atomize liquid wax and the droplets of
wax quickly cool and solidify to create a small, discrete wax
particle. The melting point of the particle must be sufficiently
high and the particle must be introduced into the mascara
formulation at a sufficiently low temperature that it does not
soften due to temperature or interactions with other materials in
the formulation. The wax particle is intended to retain at least
some to most of its size and shape by visual observation during
addition into the composition and during application to keratinous
fiber such that it maintains its bulkiness even after being applied
to the keratinous fiber.
[0054] The wax particle may contain other material embedded inside
of it. This is achieved by mixing other materials with the molten
wax before it is atomized and cooled to create a solid wax
particle. Example of materials that can be embedded inside the wax
particles include, but are not limited to pigments, preservatives,
fillers, active ingredients, polymers, organic and inorganic
solids, and mixtures thereof.
[0055] Waxes are defined as lipophilic fatty substances, which are
solid at room temperature (25 C), that undergo a reversible
solid-liquid change of state, with a melting point of greater than
or equal to about 30.degree. C., and up to about 150.degree. C.,
and have an anisotropic crystal organization in solid form. For
example, the waxes that may be suitable for this composition may
have a melting point of greater than about 40.degree. C., greater
than about 50.degree. C., or greater than about 55.degree. C. Waxes
may be selected from the group consisting of animal waxes,
vegetable waxes, mineral waxes, synthetic waxes and mixtures
thereof.
[0056] The specific waxes useful in the present invention may be
selected from the group consisting of beeswax, lanolin wax, shellac
wax (animal waxes); camauba, candelilla, bayberry (vegetable
waxes); ozokerite, ceresin, (mineral waxes); paraffin,
microcrystalline waxes (petroleum waxes); polyethylene, (ethylenic
polymers); polyethylene homopolymers (Fischer-Tropsch waxes);
C24-45 alkyl methicones (silicone waxes), insect wax, bayberry,
spermaceti wax, mountain wax, rice bran wax, kapok wax, haze wax,
jojoba wax, rice wax, cotton wax, Japan Wax; and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by
catalytic hydrogenation of oils chosen from animal, plant, and
synthetic origins comprising at least one fatty chain chosen from
linear and branched C8-C32 fatty acids, for example hydrogenated
jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated caster oil,
hydrogenated coconut oil, and hydrogenated lanolin oil,
bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate sold under the name Hest
2T-4B by the company Heterene. Non-limiting mention can also be
made of silicone waxes and fluoro waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0057] The primary particles may also be hollow in nature. They may
be hollow such as those that possess an external shell and at least
one single closed cavity. Examples of materials that form an
external shell for the hollow particle include homopolymers or
copolymers composed of one or more types of monomer selected from
vinyl chloride, vinyl acetate, methyl vinyl ether and other vinyl
based monomers, acrylic acid, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid,
methacrylic acid ester, acrylonitrile, methacrylonitrile and other
acrylic monomers, styrene, vinylidene chloride, divinylbenzene and
ethylene glycol dimethacrylate. For example, materials such as
copolymers composed of two or more types of monomer selected from
acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or esters thereof, vinylidene
chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylonitrile may be used. These
polymers can be produced by crosslinking with a crosslinking agent
such as divinylbenzene, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and
triacrylformal. The hollow particle may contain a volatile agent,
such as a hydrocarbon (for example, isobutene) and can be prepared
in accordance with known procedures, for example those described in
U.S. Pat. No. 3,615,972 and in EP patent application 0056219. There
are no particular restrictions on volatile agents, and examples
include methane, ethane, propane, butane, isobutane, isobutene,
pentane, isopentane, neopentane, hexane, neohexane, heptane,
acetylene and other hydrocarbons, trichlorofluoromethane,
dichlorodifluoromethane and other halogenated hydrocarbons and
tetraalkylsilanes and other low boiling compounds.
[0058] Primary particles of the present invention may have a
specific gravity of at least about 0.03. For example, hollow
particles are generally commercially available such as the
Matsumoto F-E series, which includes particles such as the water
dispersion product F-30E which is about 30-60 microns in diameter
and about 0.02-0.03 specific gravity. Akzo Nobel also sells hollow
spheres such as 551DE20d70, which is about a 15-25 micron hollow
sphere with a specific gravity of about 0.07.+-.0.006, or
Expancel.RTM. 551DE80d42, which is about a 50-80 micron hollow
sphere with a specific gravity of about 0.042.+-.0.004. Ganz
Chemical Company also supplies hollow spheres with a particle
diameter of about 8 microns. Hollow inorganic particles are formed
from inorganic material such as glass encapsulating a volatile
foaming agent that is gasified when heated and is produced by
heating this material to swell or foam it. Alternatively, hollow
inorganic powder is fly ash generated in a process in which carbon
(micropowder carbon) is incinerated. Hollow inorganic particles are
commercially available and examples include 3M's Microsphere
products which include S60HS with a specific gravity of about 0.6
and an average particle diameter of about 30 microns or K46 with a
specific gravity of about 0.46 and an average particle size of
about 40 microns.
[0059] The particles may be comprised of one or more materials
which are polymeric in nature selected from the group consisting of
thermoplastic and thermoset polymer particles. The polymers which
can be used in the context of the present invention may have a
molecular weight of from about 2000 to about 25,000,000. When a
thermoplastic polymer particle is used, the Tg may be no less than
about -150.degree. C., specifically no less than about -130.degree.
C., and no more than about 300.degree. C., specifically no more
than about 200.degree. C. The polymer can be combined with a
plasticizer to adjust the properties of the polymer. As used
herein, the term "plasticizer" refers to a material applied to a
given film-forming polymer to soften or improve its flexibility. In
the case of a mascara composition, a plasticizer may help the
particle to partially deform when applied to lashes, creating a
smoother, more flexible mascara film.
[0060] The polymeric particles of the present invention will
preferably retain much of their shape and buliiness once they are
applied to the keratinous fiber. For example, polymeric particles
of the present invention may be those such as Expancel.RTM.
particles, which are hard and undeformable polymeric particles.
Other polymeric particles of the present invention may be, for
example, malleable particles whose shape may partially deform when
applied to the lashes so as to allow for a smoother thick coating
of composition. Polymeric particles of the present invention, for
example, may comprise a high molecular weight dimethicone such as
Dow Coming's HMW2220 or Dow Coming's 5-7137 dimethicone particle
emulsions.
[0061] Optionally, compositions of the present invention may
comprise additional particles, as used herein "secondary
particles", to provide other benefits such as preservation,
opacity, coating smoothness, color, transfer resistance,
rheological modification, lash separation, or combinations thereof.
For example, the composition may comprise pigment particles such as
iron oxides which may be used to create a variety of colors
including, but not limited to, black mascara film. Other examples
include, but are not limited to, latex particles which may be used
to impart transfer resistance to the mascara; 25 micron in
equivalent diameter platelets which may be combined with 20 micron
in equivalent diameter spherical primary particles to create a
smoother mascara film; and 5 micron in equivalent diameter
spherical particles which could be used to fill in void space
between 40 micron in equivalent diameter primary particles to
impart a smoother mascara film.
Coatings on Particles
[0062] In addition, the surfaces of the primary or secondary
particles may be coated with either chemical matter, particulates,
or a combination of both. There are no particular restrictions on
the materials that may be applied to the surface of the particle,
and materials may be selected in accordance with the intended
effect. Examples of particulate-type coatings include, but are not
limited to talc, sericite, mica, calcium carbonate, magnesium
carbonate, kaolin, boron nitride, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron
oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide and silica. Relevant examples
include the MFL series of particles from Matsumoto. The 30STI
material has a coating of TiO2 on a 20 micron sphere with a
composite specific gravity of about 0.2.+-.0.05. The 60CA material,
also from Matsumoto has a coating of calcium carbonate on a 40-60
micron particle with a composite specific gravity of about
0.13.+-.0.05. Examples of chemical-based coatings include, but are
not limited to lecithin, silicones, hydrocarbons, fluorinated
silicones, fluorinated hydrocarbons, organic and inorganic
polymeric compounds, and amphiphillic materials. These treatments
may be physical coatings or covalently bound to the particle
surface.
Volume Fraction of Particles
[0063] When used as a single-step, single formula composition, the
volume fraction of the particles is considered to be the ratio of
the total combined volume of particles in the composition to the
total volume of the composition prior to drying on the keratinous
fibers. The ratio of particles to total composition may be, for
example, about 1:20 to about 10:1, further, for example, about 1:15
to about 5:1 and further, for example, about 1:12 to about 3:1.
Moreover, when used as part of a multiple step cosmetic system
comprising a pure particle composition, i.e. 100% particles and
absent a carrier, the particles may be applied as an additional
layer wherein the particles are applied to the lashes as a second
application step after the initial composition of the present
invention has been applied. When such a complimentary composition
is used, the composition may comprise 100% particles, 95%
particles, 85% particles or 75% particles by total combined volume
of particles within the composition. The remainder of the
composition may comprise a binder, for example, an oil that aids in
holding the particles together within the composition.
Dermatologically Acceptable Carrier
[0064] Compositions of the present invention may contain a
dermatologically acceptable carrier. The carrier can be volatile or
nonvolatile. Suitable carriers are those that dissolve or uniformly
disperse the particles of the present invention. They include, but
are not limited to, water, lower alcohols (such as ethanol,
isopropanol), dihydric alcohols such as propylene and butylene
glycol, polyols such as glycerin, hydroalcoholic mixtures,
hydrocarbons (such as isobutane, hexane, decene, acetone,
isododecane, and straight or branch chained hydrocarbons having
about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms), halogenated hydrocarbons (like
Freon), linalool, hydrocarbon esters (such as ethyl acetate,
dibutyl phthalate), volatile fluids, phenethyl pentamethyl
disiloxane, methoxypropyl heptamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane,
chloropropyl pentamethyl disiloxane, hydroxypropyl pentamethyl
disiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl
cyclopentasiloxane), volatile dimethicone, and mixtures
thereof.
C. Optional Ingredients
[0065] The compositions of the present invention may contain
numerous optional ingredients that may be added to provide
additional benefits in addition to the benefits already mentioned.
For example, compositions of the present invention may contain a
preservative system to inhibit microbiological growth and maintain
the integrity of the product. In the present invention, the
preservative system does not have a detrimental effect on the
composition. Optional ingredients should be suitable for
application to mammalian skin, that is, when incorporated into the
compositions they are suitable for use in contact with human skin
without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic
response, and the like, within the scope of sound medical or
formulator's judgment. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary
& Handbook, Tenth Edition (2004) describes a wide variety of
nonlimiting cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used
in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use in the
compositions of the present invention.
[0066] Any optional ingredients known to those skilled in the art
may also be used in the invention. Examples of optional ingredients
are cosmetic fillers including, but not limited to, mica, talc,
nylon, polyethylene, silica, polymethacrylate, kaolin, and Teflon.
Suitable cosmetic preservatives including, but not limited to,
methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, potassium
sorbate, trisodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, ethyl alcohol, benzyl
alcohol, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, and quaternium-15
may also be included.
[0067] The optional components useful herein can be categorized by
their therapeutic or aesthetic benefit or their postulated mode of
action. However, it is to be understood that the optional
components useful herein can in some instances provide more than
one therapeutic or aesthetic benefit or operate via more than one
mode of action. Therefore, classifications herein are made for the
sake of convenience and are not intended to limit the component to
that particular application or applications listed. Suitable
optional ingredients are detailed below.
Film-Forming Polymers
[0068] Film-forming polymers may be used in the invention. The
expression "film-forming" is understood to refer to a polymer
system which allows a film to be formed when it is spread on glass.
Film-forming polymers of the present invention may be water-soluble
or water-dispersible polymers. Examples of water-soluble polymers
include, but are not limited to, polyvinylpyrilidone and polyvinyl
alcohol. Examples of water-dispersible polymers are ammonium
acrylates copolymer and polyurethane. The film-forming polymers can
also be oil soluble. Example of oil soluble film-forming polymers
may be, but are not limited to, trimethylsiloxysilicate,
dimethicone, and hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene.
Pigments
[0069] Particles present in the composition may contain
dermatologically-acceptable pigments selected from the group
consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and organic
lake pigments, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof. If the
particle is a primary particle, the primary particle may be
partially pigmented while secondary particles may wholly or
partially comprise one or more pigments. When employed, the
pigments are present in proportions depending on the color and the
intensity of the color that it is intended to produce. The level of
pigments in the solid portion of the composition may be from at
least about 0.01%, at least about 1%, or at least about 3% but no
more than about 20%, no more than about 15%, or no more than about
10%. The pigments may be surface-treated with treatments that
include, but are not limited to, silicones, perfluorinated
compounds, lecithin, and amino acids.
[0070] Inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include
those selected from the group consisting of rutile titanium
dioxide, anatase titanium dioxide (both coded in the Color Index
under the reference CI 77891); black, yellow and red iron oxides
(CI 77499, 77492 and 77491); bismuth oxychloride (CI 77163);
manganese violet (CI 77742); ultramarines (CI 77007); chromium
oxide (CI 77288); chromium hydroxide (CI 77289); ferric
ferrocyanide (CI 77510); zinc oxide (CI 77947); and mixtures
thereof.
[0071] The organic pigments useful in the present invention include
the dyes and the analogous lakes selected from the group consisting
of D&C Red 6 (CI 15850); D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1); D&C
Red 21 (CI 45380:2); D&C Red 22 (CI 45380); D&C Red 27 (CI
45410:1); D&C Red 28 (CI 45410); D&C Red 30 (CI 73360);
D&C Red 33 (CI 17200); D&C Red 34 (CI 15880:1); D&C Red
36 (CI 12085); D&C Orange 4 (CI 15510); D&C Orange 5 (CI
45370:1); D&C Orange 11 (CI 45425); FD&C Yellow 5 (CI
19140), FD&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985); D&C Yellow 10 (CI 47005);
FD&C Green 3 (CI 42053); D&C Green 5 (CI 61570); FD&C
Blue 1 (CI 42090); Cochineal Carmine (CI 75470); Guanine (CI
75170); carbon black; and mixtures thereof.
[0072] The pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention
include those selected from the group consisting of mica (or a
similar plate-like substrate) coated with any of the following
materials alone or in combination: titanium dioxide, bismuth
oxychloride, iron oxides, ferric ferrocyanide, chromium oxide,
chromium hydroxide, and any organic pigment of the above-mentioned
type and mixtures thereof.
Emulsifiers
[0073] Emulsifiers may also be used to assist in the stabilization
of the compositions. These emulsifiers include, but, are not
necessarily limited to soaps, phosphate esters, ethoxylated
alcohols, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated fatty esters, polyol
ether esters, glycerol esters, sucrose or sorbitan esters, glucose
esters, potassium or DEA-cetyl phosphate, triethanolamine, fatty
esters, and mixtures thereof.
Rheological Agent
[0074] One or more rheological agents may be used to alter the
rheology of the mascara. For example, they may be shear-thinning
thickeners, i.e., an agent capable of giving the composition
containing it shear-thinning behavior, characterized in that the
viscosity of the composition decreases when increased shear rates
are applied to the composition.
Hydrophobic Conditioning Agents
[0075] The compositions of the present invention may optionally
contain one or more hydrophobic conditioning agents. For example,
the weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter of the
hydrophobic conditioning agent may be less than or equal to 12. It
is recognized, based on this mathematical definition of solubility
parameters, that it is possible, for example, to achieve the
required weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter, i.e., less
than or equal to 12, for a hydrophobic conditioning agent
comprising two or more compounds if one of the compounds has an
individual solubility parameter greater than 12.
[0076] Solubility parameters are well known to the formulation
chemist of ordinary skill in the art and are routinely used as a
guide for determining compatibilities and solubilities of materials
in the formulation process.
[0077] Nonlimiting examples of hydrophobic conditioning agents
include those selected from the group consisting of mineral oil,
petrolatum, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, lanolin, lanolin
derivatives, C7-C40 branched chain hydrocarbons, C1-C30 alcohol
esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, C1-C30 alcohol esters of C2-C30
dicarboxylic acids, monoglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids,
diglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, triglycerides of C1-C30
carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic
acids, ethylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids,
propylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene
glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, C1-C30 carboxylic acid
monoesters and polyesters of sugars, polydialkylsiloxanes,
polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, cylcomethicones having 3
to 9 silicon atoms, vegetable oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils,
polypropylene glycol C4-C20 alkyl ethers, di C8-C30 alkyl ethers,
straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to
about 40 carbon atoms and combinations thereof.
[0078] Other hydrophobic conditioning agents include, but are not
limited to, hydrophobic chelating agents; C1-C30 alcohol esters of
C1C30 carboxylic acids and of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids; various
C1-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related materials;
Nonvolatile silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes,
polydiarylsiloxanes, and polyalkarylsiloxanes; Vegetable oils and
hydrogenated vegetable oils; and C4-C20 alkyl ethers of
polypropylene glycols, C1-C20 carboxylic acid esters of
polypropylene glycols, and di-C8-C30 alkyl ethers.
Hydrophilic Conditioning Agents
[0079] The compositions of the present invention can also include
one or more hydrophilic conditioning agents. Nonlimiting examples
of hydrophilic conditioning agents include those selected from the
group consisting of polyhydric alcohols, polypropylene glycols,
polyethylene glycols, ureas, pyrolidone carboxylic acids,
ethoxylated and/or propoxylated C3-C6 diols and triols,
alpha-hydroxy C2-C6 carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and/or
propoxylated sugars, polyacrylic acid copolymers, sugars having up
to about 12 carbons atoms, sugar alcohols having up to about 12
carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
Structured Conditioning Agents
[0080] Compositions of the present invention may also include
structured conditioning agents. Suitable structured conditioning
agents include, but are not limited to, vesicular structures such
as ceramides, liposomes, and the like.
Coacervates
[0081] Compositions of the present invention may also include
cosmetic agents that are coacervate-forming. For example, the
coacervate-forming cosmetic benefit agent comprises a cationic
polymer, an anionic surfactant, and a dermatologically acceptable
carrier for the polymer and surfactant. The cationic polymer may be
selected from the group consisting of natural backbone quaternary
ammonium polymers, synthetic backbone quaternary ammonium polymers,
natural backbone amphoteric type polymers, synthetic backbone
amphoteric type polymers, and combinations thereof.
Vitamin Compounds
[0082] The present compositions may comprise vitamin compounds,
precursors, and derivatives thereof. These vitamin compounds may be
in either natural or synthetic form. Suitable vitamin compounds
include, but are not limited to, Vitamin A (e.g., beta carotene,
retinoic acid, retinol, retinoids, retinyl palmitate, retinyl
proprionate, etc.), Vitamin B (e.g., niacin, niacinamide,
riboflavin, pantothenic acid, etc.), Vitamin C (e.g., ascorbic
acid, etc.), Vitamin D (e.g., ergosterol, ergocalciferol,
cholecalciferol, etc.), Vitamin E (e.g., tocopherol acetate, etc.),
and Vitamin K (e.g., phytonadione, menadione, phthiocol, etc.)
compounds.
Preservatives
[0083] Suitable cosmetic preservatives including, but not limited
to, methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben,
potassium sorbate, trisodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, ethyl alcohol,
benzyl alcohol, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, and
quaternium-I 5 may also be included.
Waxes
[0084] If waxes are used as an optional component of the present
invention, the waxes are not considered a primary particle, but
rather particles that are less than about 5 microns in diameter. In
such case, the particle size is considered after the particles have
been applied to the lashes in order to account for the diminution
upon application. Optional waxes may be used at levels from about
0%, from about 2% or from about 5% but no more than about 20%, no
more than about 30% or no more than about 40% by weight of the
composition. Waxes are defined as lipophilic fatty substances,
which are solid at room temperature (25.degree. C.), that undergoes
a reversible solid-liquid change of state, with a melting point of
greater than or equal to about 30.degree. C., and up to about
150.degree. C., and have an anisotropic crystal organization in
solid form. For example, the waxes that may be suitable for this
composition may have a melting point of greater than about
40.degree. C. or greater than about 50.degree. C. Waxes useful in
the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of
animal waxes, vegetable waxes, mineral waxes, synthetic waxes and
mixtures thereof.
[0085] The specific waxes useful in the present invention as
optional ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of
beeswax, lanolin wax, shellac wax (animal waxes); carnauba,
candelilla, bayberry (vegetable waxes); ozokerite, ceresin,
(mineral waxes); paraffin, microcrystalline waxes (petroleum
waxes); polyethylene, (ethylenic polymers); polyethylene
homopolymers (Fischer-Tropsch waxes); C24-45 alkyl methicones
(silicone waxes), Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, Japan Wax; and
mixtures thereof. Most preferred are beeswax, lanolin wax,
carnauba, candelilla, ozokerite, ceresin, paraffins,
microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene, C24-45 alkyl methicones, and
mixtures thereof. Non-limiting mention may also be made of the
waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of oils chosen from
animal, plant, and synthetic origins comprising at least one fatty
chain chosen from linear and branched C8 -C32 fatty acids, for
example hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil,
hydrogenated caster oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and hydrogenated
lanolin oil, bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate sold under
the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene. Non-limiting mention
can also be made of silicone waxes and fluoro waxes, and mixtures
thereof.
Fibers
[0086] The secondary particles may also comprise fibers to allow
for the improvement of either mascara volume or lengthening of
lashes. The term "fiber", as used herein, means an object of length
L and diameter D such that L is greater than D, wherein D is the
diameter of the circle in which the cross section of the fiber is
inscribed. For example, the ratio L/D (or shape factor) may be from
at least about 3.5:1 or from about 5:1 but no more than about 500:1
or no more than about 150:1. The fibers that may be used in the
composition may be chosen from mineral and organic fibers of
synthetic or natural origin. For example, they be short or long,
individual or organized, such as being braided, and hollow or
solid. They may have any shape, such as a circular or polygonal
(square, hexagonal, or octagonal) cross section, depending on the
intended specific application. For example, their ends may be blunt
and/or polished to prevent injury. For example, the fibers may have
a length ranging from at least about 1 micron, at least about 50
microns or at least about 90 microns but no more than about 100
microns, no more than about 5 mm, or no more than about 1 mm. The
weight or yarn count of the fibers may be given in units of denier
or decitex, and may represent the weight in grams per 9 km of yarn.
In one embodiment, the fibers may have a yarn count from at least
about 0.15 or from at least about 0.18 but no more than about 30
denier or no more than about 18 denier.
[0087] The fibers of the present invention may be treated or
untreated at the surface, and coated or uncoated. If coated fibers
are used, non-limiting mention may be made of polyamide fibers
coated with copper sulphide, which may provide an anti-static
effect (for example R-STAT from Rhodia), or another polymer which
may enable a particular organization of the fibers (specific
surface treatment), or surface treatment, such as color/hologram
effects (Lurex fiber from Sildorex, for example).
[0088] The composition may also comprise "rigid" fibers which are
initially substantially straight, when placed in a dispersing
medium, do not undergo a substantial change in shape, reflecting a
shape that may be described as still substantially straight and
linear. The rigid fibers may be chosen from fibers of a synthetic
polymer chosen from polyesters, polyurethanes, acrylic polymers,
polyolefins, polyamides, such as non-aromatic polyamides, and
aromatic polyimideamides.
[0089] For example, the rigid fibers may be chosen from aromatic
polyimideamide fibers. Further for example, polyimideamide yarns or
fibers that may be used for the compositions of the invention are
described, for example, in the document from R. Pigeon and P.
Allard, Chimie Macromo-1Cculaire AppliquCe, 40141 (1974), pages
139-158 (No. 600), or in U.S. Pat. No. 3,802,841, or in documents
FR-A-2 079 785, EP-A1-0 360 728 and EP-A-0 549 494.
EXAMPLE 1
Oil-in-Water Mascara Composition
[0090] A mascara containing large wax particles: TABLE-US-00001
Phase Raw Material Weight % A Glyceryl Monostearate 5.250 A Black
Iron Oxide 7.250 A Disteardimonium Hectorite 2.250 A Stearic Acid
2.750 A Carnauba Wax 2.000 A Triethanolamine 1.750 A Synthetic Wax
1.500 A Polyvinyl Alcohol 1.500 A Propylene Carbonate 0.750 A
Lecithin 1.250 A Oleic Acid 80% 1.000 B Acrylates Copolymer 5.170 B
Deionized Water 40.18 B Simethicone Emulsion 30% 0.200 C Xanthan
Gum 0.6 C Propylene Glycol 3.000 D Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer
17.79 E Ethyl Alcohol SD 40-B 1.000 E Benzyl Alcohol 0.650 E
Panthenol 0.280 E Phenoxyethanol 0.280 E Methylparaben 0.200 E
Ethylparaben 0.200 E Propylparaben 0.100 E Trisodium EDTA 0.100 F
20 .mu.m Polyethylene Wax Particle 3.000 TOTAL 100.000
Procedure
[0091] Phase A is heated to melt the waxes and allow the pigment to
be dispersed with a Cowles Blade mixer. Phase B materials are
stirred together at ambient conditions, and Phase C materials are
stirred together at ambient conditions and then it is added to
Phase B (to gel Phase B), and the mixture is stirred and then
heated to about 85 C. The Phase A and Phases B/C are mixed together
to create an oil (wax) in water emulsion. The mixture is stirred
for 15 minutes and then is cooled gradually till room temperature.
During the cool down, Phases D and E are added to the mixture and
stirred in below 60 C. Phase F is spherical polyethylene wax
particles that are prepared separately using typical process known
in the art such as spray drying. Phase F is added to and mixed with
the mascara once the mascara has cooled down to about 25 C.
EXAMPLE 2
Oil-in-Water Mascara Composition
[0092] A mascara containing large hollow particles: TABLE-US-00002
Phase Raw Material Weight % A Glyceryl Monostearate 5.250 A Black
Iron Oxide 7.250 A Disteardimonium Hectorite 2.250 A Stearic Acid
2.750 A Carnauba Wax 2.000 A Triethanolamine 1.750 A Synthetic Wax
1.500 A Polyvinyl Alcohol 1.500 A Propylene Carbonate 0.750 A
Lecithin 1.250 A Oleic Acid 80% 1.000 B Acrylates Copolymer 5.170 B
Deionized Water 41.93 B Simethicone Emulsion 30% 0.200 C Xanthan
Gum 0.6 C Propylene Glycol 3.000 D Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer
17.79 E Ethyl Alcohol SD 40-B 1.000 E Benzyl Alcohol 0.650 E
Panthenol 0.280 E Phenoxyethanol 0.280 E Methylparaben 0.200 E
Ethylparaben 0.200 E Propylparaben 0.100 E Trisodium EDTA 0.100 F
Expancel .RTM. DE40d60 1 Expancel .RTM. DE20d70 0.25 TOTAL
100.000
Procedure
[0093] Phase A is heated to melt the waxes and allow the pigment to
be dispersed with a Cowles Blade mixer. Phase B materials are
stirred together at ambient conditions, and Phase C materials are
stirred together at ambient conditions and then it is added to
Phase B (to gel Phase B), and the mixture is stirred and then
heated to about 85 C. The Phase A and Phases B/C are mixed together
to create an oil (wax) in water emulsion. The mixture is stirred
for 15 minutes and then is cooled gradually till room temperature.
During the cool down, Phases D and E are added to the mixture and
stirred in below 60 C. Phase F is spherical hollow particles that
are 40 .mu.m and 20 .mu.m average diameters. Phase F is added to
and mixed with the mascara once the mascara has cooled down to
about 25 C.
EXAMPLE 3
Oil-in-Water Mascara Composition
[0094] A mascara containing large polymeric particles:
TABLE-US-00003 Phase Raw Material Weight % A Glyceryl Monostearate
7.500 A Black Iron Oxide 6.500 A C18-36 Acid Triglyceride 5.000 A
Stearic Acid 3.750 A Carnauba Wax 2.500 A Paraffin Wax 2.500 A
Tricontanyl PVP 2.000 A Lecithin 2.000 A Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
1.000 A Triethanolamine 2.250 B Trisodium EDTA 0.100 B Deionized
Water 34.89 B Simethicone Emulsion 0.200 C Ethyl Alcohol 1.000 C
Benzyl Alcohol 0.650 C Panthenol 0.280 C Phenoxyethanol 0.280 C
Methylparaben 0.200 C Ethylparaben 0.200 C Propylparaben 0.100 C
Trisodium EDTA 0.100 D Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer 12.000 Dow
Corning HMW2220 Dimethicone 15 Emulsion TOTAL 100.000
Procedure
[0095] The waxes of Phase A are heated to melt the waxes and then
the pigment is added and dispersed into the waxes. Then the
Triethanolamine as added and mixed in. Phase B materials are
stirred together at ambient conditions, and then heated to the same
temperature (.about.90 C) as Phase A. Phase A and Phase B are
combined together and mixed to homogeneity. They are then gradually
cooled a 1 C per minute until 50 C when phase C (phase C is
premixed together before-hand) is added and mixed in, followed by
phase D (premixed beforehand). The mixture is mixed until about 40
C and then allowed to self cool gradually to ambient conditions.
During the processes, the Dimethicone emulsion particles (which
start as small <5 micron polymer particles) coalesce together to
form polymer particles that are greater than 5 microns.
EXAMPLE 4
Water Based Mascara
[0096] A mascara containing platelet particles and hollow
particles: TABLE-US-00004 Clear Mascara Master Formula Phase Raw
Material Weight % A Purified Water 37.00 A Carbomer 1.000 B
Polyvinyl Alcohol 10 B Purified Water 28.000 C Glycerin 0.500 C
Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.300 C Methylparaben 0.1 C Trisodium EDTA
0.050 D Ethyl Alcohol 200 Proof 5.000 E Triethanolamine 99% 2.200 E
Purified Water 5.65 F Particle (Expancel .RTM. DE20d70 0.200 from
Expancel .RTM.) F Colorona .RTM. Magenta 10.000 100.000
Procedure
[0097] The carbomer is gradually added to the Phase A Water and the
mixture is stirred. The water in Phase B is heated to about
50.degree. C. and then the rest of phase B is slowly added and
stirred in. Add the Phase C materials into the Phase B and continue
to mix. Phase A is then added to Phases B/C and mixed in. The batch
is cooled to about ambient temperature and then Phase D is added
and mixed in. Premix the Phase E materials into a uniform mixture,
and add it to the rest of the batch. The viscosity will thicken
during this addition. Phase F is gradually added and the batch is
stirred to create a homogeneous mixture at ambient conditions.
EXAMPLE 5
Anhydrous Mascara
[0098] A mascara having coated hollow particles: TABLE-US-00005
PRODUCT PHASING A Tall Oil Glycerides 0.500% A Pentaerythrityl
Hydrogenated Rosinate 2.000% A Carnauba Wax 5.000% A Polyethylene
Wax 8.500% A Trihydroxystearin 2.500% A Propylparaben 0.100% A BHA
0.100% A Phenoxyethanol 99% 0.800% A Petroleum Distillates 63.50% B
Disteardimonium Hectorite 6.000% C Propylene Carbonate 2.000% D
Black Iron Oxide 7.000% E Matsumoto MFL 60CA 2.000% (Calcium
Carbonate coated hollow particle) 100%
Phase A ingredients are melted and mixed together with low shear
mixing. Phase B is gradually added to the Phase A and then
dispersed with high shear mixing. Phase C is then added and mixed
in with high shear mixing. The Phase D is then added and dispersed
with high shear mixing. The batch is cooled to ambient conditions
and the Phase E is added and mixed in.
[0099] All documents cited in the Detailed Description of the
Invention are, in relevant part, incorporated herein by reference;
the citation of any document is not to be construed as an admission
that it is prior art with respect to the present invention. To the
extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document
conflicts with any meaning or definition of the term in a document
incorporated herein by reference, the meaning or definition
assigned to the term in this document shall govern.
[0100] While particular embodiments of the present invention have
been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those
skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can
be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the
invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims
all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of
this invention.
* * * * *