U.S. patent application number 11/250639 was filed with the patent office on 2006-06-22 for composition for cosmetic or dermatological use containing a triblock polymer.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Florence L'Alloret.
Application Number | 20060134053 11/250639 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 8865669 |
Filed Date | 2006-06-22 |
United States Patent
Application |
20060134053 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
L'Alloret; Florence |
June 22, 2006 |
Composition for cosmetic or dermatological use containing a
triblock polymer
Abstract
The present patent application relates to a cosmetic and/or
dermatological composition comprising at least one aqueous phase
including at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer,
of triblock structure B-A-B in which A is an ionic water-soluble
polymer block and B is a hydrophobic polymer block, the amount of
polymer block A being greater than or equal to 50% of the total
weight of the triblock polymer. The invention also relates to the
use of the said composition, especially in cosmetics for caring
for, cleansing, protecting and/or making up the skin, keratin
fibres and/or mucous membranes.
Inventors: |
L'Alloret; Florence; (Paris,
FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
OBLON, SPIVAK, MCCLELLAND, MAIER & NEUSTADT, P.C.
1940 DUKE STREET
ALEXANDRIA
VA
22314
US
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
8865669 |
Appl. No.: |
11/250639 |
Filed: |
October 17, 2005 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
10197555 |
Jul 18, 2002 |
6994846 |
|
|
11250639 |
Oct 17, 2005 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.16 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q 17/04 20130101;
A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61Q 1/14 20130101; A61Q 19/08 20130101; A61K
8/90 20130101; A61Q 1/02 20130101; A61Q 5/00 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/070.16 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/81 20060101
A61K008/81 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jul 18, 2001 |
FR |
01 09614 |
Claims
1-52. (canceled)
53. A cosmetic, dermatological or cosmetic and dermatological
composition comprising at least one aqueous phase, the aqueous
phase comprising water and at least one watersoluble or
water-dispersible triblock polymer having an B-A-B structure in
which A is an ionic water-soluble polymer block and B is a
hydrophobic polymer block, wherein the amount of polymer block A is
greater than or equal to 50% of the total weight of the triblock
polymer.
54. A composition according to claim 53, wherein the ionic
water-soluble block A comprises polymerized units of one or more
water-soluble monomers (Ia) or salts thereof, the monomers (Ia)
being selected from the group consisting of (meth)acrylic acid,
styrenesulfonic acid, vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic
acid, vinylphosphonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic
acid, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, methylvinylimidazolium
chloride, ethylenic carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines, water-soluble
vinyl monomers of formula (I) below: ##STR8## in which: R is
selected from the group consisting of H, --CH.sub.3,
--C.sub.2H.sub.5 and --C.sub.3H.sub.7; X is selected from the group
consisting of: alkyloxides of the formula --OR.sub.1 in which
R.sub.1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
substituted with at least one carboxylate, sulfonic, sulfate,
phosphate and/or quaternary ammonium group of the formula
--N.sup.+R.sub.2R.sub.3R.sub.4, the radicals R.sub.2, R.sub.3 and
R.sub.4 being, independently of each other, a linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6
carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.1+R.sub.2+R.sub.3+R.sub.4 does not exceed 6; the radical
R.sub.1 optionally being substituted with a halogen atom; a
hydroxyl; carboxylic acid; ether; primary amine; secondary amine of
the formula --NHR.sub.5; or tertiary amine of the formula
--NR.sub.5R.sub.6, the radicals R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 being,
independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.1+R.sub.5+R.sub.6 does not exceed 6; groups --NH.sub.2,
--NHR.sub.7 and --NR.sub.7R.sub.8 in which R.sub.7 and R.sub.8 are,
independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms of
R.sub.7+R.sub.8 does not exceed 6, the said radicals R.sub.7 and/or
R.sub.8 being substituted with at least one carboxylate, sulfonic,
sulfate, phosphate and/or quaternary amine of the formula
--N.sup.+R.sub.9R.sub.10R.sub.11, the radicals R.sub.9, R.sub.10
and R.sub.11 being, independently of each other, a linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 1
to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon
atoms of R.sub.7+R.sub.8+R.sub.9+R.sub.10+R.sub.11 does not exceed
6; the radicals R.sub.7 and/or R.sub.8 optionally being substituted
with a halogen atom; or a hydroxyl; ether; carboxylic acid; primary
amine; secondary amine of the formula --NHR.sub.5; or tertiary
amine of the formula --NR.sub.5R.sub.6, in which R.sub.5 and
R.sub.6 have the meanings given above, with the proviso that the
sum of the carbon atoms of R.sub.7+R.sub.8+R.sub.5+R.sub.6 does not
exceed 6; the substituents R and X being such that the monomer of
formula (I) is water-soluble; and mixtures of these monomers.
55. A composition according to claim 53, wherein the ionic
water-soluble block A further comprises polymerized units of one or
more monomers selected from the group consisting of hydrophobic
monomers (Ib), neutral water-soluble monomers (Ic), and mixtures
thereof.
56. A composition according to claim 55, wherein the ionic
water-soluble block A further comprises polymerized units of one or
more hydrophobic monomers (Ib) selected from the group consisting
of: styrene and its derivatives; vinyl acetate; vinyl ethers of
formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CHOR.sub.12 in which R.sub.12 is a linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing
from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; acrylonitrile; caprolactone; vinyl
chloride and vinylidene chloride; unsaturated silicone monomers;
hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (II) below: ##STR9## in
which: R.sub.13 is selected from the group consisting of H,
--CH.sub.3, --C.sub.2H.sub.5 and --C.sub.3H.sub.7; X.sub.1 is
selected from the group consisting of: alkyloxides of the formula
--OR.sub.14 in which R.sub.14 is a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon
atoms; groups --NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.15 and --NR.sub.15R.sub.16 in
which R.sub.15 and R.sub.16 are, independently of each other,
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals
containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total
number of carbon atoms of R.sub.15+R.sub.16 does not exceed 6; the
substituents R.sub.13 and X.sub.1 being such that the monomer of
formula (II) is hydrophobic; and mixtures of these monomers.
57. A composition according to claim 55, wherein the ionic
water-soluble block A further comprises polymerized units of one or
more neutral water-soluble monomers (Ic) selected from the group
consisting of: (meth)acrylamide, N-vinylacetamide and
N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide, N-vinylformamide and
N-methyl-N-vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, vinylamine,
N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to
9 carbon atoms, vinyl alcohol, water-soluble vinyl monomers of
formula (III) below: ##STR10## in which: R.sub.17 is selected from
the group consisting of H, --CH.sub.3, --C.sub.2H.sub.5 and
--C.sub.3H.sub.7 X.sub.2 is selected from the group consisting of:
alkyloxides of the formula --OR.sub.18 in which R.sub.18 is a
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical
containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a
halogen atom; a hydroxyl; carboxylic acid; ether; primary amine;
secondary amine of the formula --NHR.sub.9 .sub.9 or tertiary amine
of the formula --NR.sub.19R.sub.20; the radicals R.sub.19 and
R.sub.20 being, independently of each other, a linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6
carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.18+R.sub.19+R.sub.20 does not exceed 6; groups --NH.sub.2,
--NHR.sub.21 and --NR.sub.21R.sub.22 in which R.sub.21 and R.sub.22
are, independently of each other, linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms of
R.sub.21+R.sub.22 does not exceed 6, the said radicals R.sub.21 and
R.sub.22 optionally being substituted with a halogen atom; a
carboxylic acid; hydroxyl; ether; primary amine; secondary amine of
the formula --NHR.sub.23; or tertiary amine of the formula
--NR.sub.23R.sub.24, the radicals R.sub.23 and R.sub.24 being,
independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.21+R.sub.22+R.sub.23+R.sub.24 does not exceed 6; the
substituents R.sub.17 and X.sub.2 being such that the monomer of
formula (III) is water-soluble; and mixtures of these monomers.
58. A composition according to claim 53, wherein the ionic
water-soluble block A is an ionic water-soluble polymer.
59. A composition according to claim 58, wherein the ionic
water-soluble block A is polyethyleneimine.
60. A composition according to claim 53, wherein the ionic
water-soluble block A is totally or partially neutralized with a
mineral or organic base.
61. A composition according to claim 53, wherein the hydrophobic
block B comprises polymerized units of one or more hydrophobic
monomers (Id) selected from the group consisting of: styrene and
its derivatives, vinyl acetate, vinyl ethers of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHOR.sub.25 in which R.sub.25 is a linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to
22 carbon atoms, acrylonitrile, vinyl chloride and vinylidene
chloride, caprolactone, alkenes, unsaturated silicone monomers,
silicone derivatives, hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (IV)
below: ##STR11## in which: R.sub.26 is selected from the group
consisting of H, --CH.sub.3, --C.sub.2H.sub.5 or --C.sub.3H.sub.7;
X.sub.3 is selected from the group consisting of: alkyloxides of
the formula --OR.sub.27 in which R.sub.27 is a linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to
22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen atom; a
carboxylate, sulfonic, sulfate, phosphate, hydroxyl, carboxylic
acid, ether, primary amine, secondary amine of the formula
--NHR.sub.28, tertiary amine of the formula --NR.sub.28R.sub.29 or
quaternary ammonium group of the formula
--N.sup.+R.sub.28R.sub.29R.sub.30, the radicals R.sub.28, R.sub.29
and R.sub.30 being, independently of each other, a linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 1
to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon
atoms of R.sub.27+R.sub.28+R.sub.29+R.sub.30 does not exceed 22; or
R.sub.27 is a perfluoroalkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon
atoms; groups --NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.31 and --NR.sub.31R.sub.32 in
which the radicals R.sub.31 and R.sub.32 are, independently of each
other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon
radical containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the
total number of carbon atoms of R.sub.31+R.sub.32 does not exceed
22, the said radicals R.sub.31 and R.sub.32 optionally being
substituted with a halogen atom; a hydroxyl, ether, carboxylate,
sulfonic, sulfate, phosphate, carboxylic acid, primary amine,
secondary amine of the formula --NHR.sub.28, tertiary amine of the
formula --NR.sub.28R.sub.29 or quaternary ammonium group of the
formula --N.sup.+R.sub.28R.sub.29R.sub.30, in which R.sub.28,
R.sub.29 and R.sub.30 have the same meanings as those given above,
with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.31+R.sub.32+R.sub.28+R.sub.29+R.sub.30 does not exceed 22; or
alternatively R.sub.3, and R.sub.32, independently of each other,
are a perfluoroalkyl radical preferably containing from 1 to 18
carbon atoms; the substituents R.sub.26 and X.sub.3 being such that
the monomer of formula (IV) is hydrophobic; and mixtures of these
monomers.
62. A composition according to claim 61, wherein the hydrophobic
block B further comprises polymerized units of one or more ionic or
neutral water soluble monomers (Ie) selected from the group
consisting of the following monomers, or salts thereof:
(meth)acrylic acid; styrenesulfonic acid; vinylsulfonic acid and
(meth)allylsulfonic acid; vinylphosphonic acid; maleic anhydride;
maleic acid; itaconic acid; crotonic acid; dimethyldiallylammonium
chloride; methylvinylimidazolium chloride; (meth)acrylamide;
N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide; N-vinylformamide
and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide; N-vinyllactams including a cyclic
alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms; vinyl alcohol;
2-vinylpyridine and 4-vinylpyridine; the water-soluble vinyl
monomers of formula (V) below: ##STR12## in which: R.sub.33 is
selected from the group consisting of H, --CH.sub.3,
--C.sub.2H.sub.5 and --C.sub.3H.sub.7; X.sub.4 is selected from the
group consisting of: alkyloxides of the formula --OR.sub.34 in
which R.sub.34 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally
substituted with a halogen atom; a carboxylate, carboxylic acid,
sulfonic, sulfate, phosphate, hydroxyl, ether, primary amine,
secondary amine of the formula --NHR.sub.35, tertiary amine of the
formula --NR.sub.35R.sub.36, or quaternary ammonium group of the
formula --N.sup.+R.sub.35R.sub.36R.sub.37, the radicals R.sub.35,
R.sub.36 and R.sub.37 being, independently of each other, a linear
or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical
containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of
the carbon atoms of R.sub.34+R.sub.35+R.sub.36+R.sub.37 does not
exceed 6; groups --NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.38 and --NR.sub.38R.sub.39
in which the radicals R.sub.38 and R.sub.39 are, independently of
each other, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the
proviso that the total number of carbon atoms of R.sub.38+R.sub.39
does not exceed 6, the said radicals R.sub.38 and/or R.sub.39
optionally being substituted with a halogen atom; a carboxylate;
carboxylic acid; sulfonic; sulfate; phosphate; hydroxyl; ether;
primary amine; secondary amine of the formula --NHR.sub.35;
tertiary amine of the formula --NR.sub.35R.sub.36 or quaternary
ammonium group of the formula --N.sup.+R.sub.35R.sub.36R.sub.37, in
which R.sub.35, R.sub.36 and R.sub.37 have the same meaning as
mentioned above, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms
of R.sub.38+R.sub.39+R.sub.35+R.sub.36+R.sub.37 does not exceed 6;
the substituents R.sub.33 and X.sub.4 being such that the monomer
of formula (V) is water-soluble; and mixtures of these
monomers.
63. A composition according to claim 53, wherein the triblock
polymer has a molar weight ranging from 1000 g/mol to 500 000
g/mol.
64. A composition according to claim 63, wherein the triblock
polymer has a molar mass ranging from 2000 g/mol to 300 000
g/mol.
65. A composition according to claim 53, wherein the proportion of
the ionic hydrophilic block A in the copolymer is greater than 60%
by weight relative to the total weight of the blocks A and B.
66. A composition according to claim 53, wherein the ionic polymer
block A is totally water-soluble and the polymer block B is totally
hydrophobic.
67. A composition according to claim 66, wherein the triblock
polymer comprises sodium polyacrylate as block A and polystyrene as
block B.
68. A composition according to claim 53, wherein the amount of
polymer ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
69. A composition according to claim 53, further comprising at
least one water-soluble or water-dispersible diblock polymer A'-B
in which A' is a neutral water-soluble polymer block and B is a
hydrophobic polymer block.
70. A composition according to claim 69, wherein the amount of
ionic triblock polymer B-A-B is greater than 10% by weight relative
to the total amount of triblock and diblock polymers.
71. A composition according to claim 69, wherein the block A'
comprises polymerized units of one or more water-soluble monomers
selected from the group consisting of the monomers (If) below:
(meth)acrylamide, N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,
N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide, N-vinyllactams
including a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms,
vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, vinylamine, water-soluble vinyl
monomers of formula (VI) below: ##STR13## in which: R.sub.40 is
selected from the group consisting of H, --CH.sub.3,
--C.sub.2H.sub.5 and --C.sub.3H.sub.7; X.sub.5 is selected from the
group consisting of: alkyloxides of the formula --OR.sub.41 in
which R.sub.4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally
substituted with a halogen atom; a carboxylic acid; hydroxyl;
ether; primary amine; secondary amine of the formula --NHR.sub.42;
or tertiary amine of the formula --NR.sub.42R.sub.4; the radicals
R.sub.42 and R.sub.43 being, independently of each other, a linear
or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical
containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of
the carbon atoms of R.sub.4, +R.sub.42+R.sub.43 does not exceed 6;
groups --NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.44 and --NR.sub.44R.sub.45 in which
R.sub.44 and R.sub.45 are, independently of each other, linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals containing
1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of
carbon atoms of R.sub.44+R.sub.45 does not exceed 6, the said
radicals R.sub.44 and R.sub.45 optionally being substituted with a
halogen atom; a carboxylic acid; hydroxyl; ether; primary amine;
secondary amine of the formula --NH.sub.46; or tertiary amine of
the formula --NR.sub.46R.sub.47, the radicals R.sub.46 and R.sub.47
being, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated
or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.44+R.sub.45+R.sub.46 and R.sub.47 does not exceed 6; the
substituents R.sub.40 and X.sub.5 being such that the monomer of
formula (VI) is water-soluble; and mixtures of these monomers.
72. A composition according to claim 71, wherein the neutral
water-soluble block A' further comprises polymerized units of one
or more hydrophobic monomers (Ig) selected from the group
consisting of the following monomers: styrene and its derivatives,
vinyl acetate, vinyl ethers of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CHOR.sub.48 in
which R.sub.48 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
acrylonitrile, caprolactone, vinyl chloride and vinylidene
chloride, unsaturated silicone monomers, the hydrophobic vinyl
monomers of formula (VII) below: ##STR14## in which: R.sub.49 is
selected from the group consisting of H, --CH.sub.3,
--C.sub.2H.sub.5 and --C.sub.3H.sub.7; X.sub.6 is selected from the
group consisting of: alkyloxides of the formula --OR.sub.50 in
which R.sub.50 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; groups
--NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.51 and --NR.sub.51R.sub.52 in which R.sub.5,
and R.sub.52 are, independently of each other, linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals containing 1 to 6
carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon
atoms of R.sub.51+R.sub.52 does not exceed 6; the substituents
R.sub.49 and X.sub.6 being such that the monomer of formula (VII)
is hydrophobic; and mixtures thereof.
Description
[0001] The present patent application relates to a cosmetic and/or
dermatological composition comprising at least one aqueous phase
including at least one block polymer, and to uses thereof in
cosmetics or dermatology, especially for caring for, cleansing,
protecting and/or making up keratin materials (skin, mucous
membranes or keratin fibres such as the hair and the
eyelashes).
[0002] Cosmetic compositions, especially those intended for caring
for or cleansing human skin or the hair, usually comprise an
aqueous phase that is gelled, i.e. thickened, using one or more
thickener(s) or gelling agent(s). These may be, for example,
lotions which are aqueous solutions not containing an oily phase,
or emulsions which may be direct oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions
including a fatty phase or oily phase dispersed in an aqueous
continuous phase, or water-in-oil (W/O) reverse emulsions including
an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily continuous phase. The term
"emulsions" means herein both the dispersions obtained in the
absence of emulsifying surfactants and the emulsions obtained in
the presence of emulsifying surfactants.
[0003] Oil-in-water emulsions are the emulsions most frequently
sought in cosmetics due to the fact that, when applied to the skin,
they give a softer, less greasy, fresher and lighter feel than
water-in-oil emulsion systems, by virtue of the presence of water
in the continuous outer phase.
[0004] The nature of the compounds used for gelling the aqueous
phase and their content in the composition are chosen as a function
of the desired type of texture, which may range from fluid lotions
to more or less thick emulsions that may constitute milks or
creams. The main thickeners or gelling agents used in cosmetics are
chosen from the following compounds: [0005] natural polymers such
as xanthan gum and guar gum or cellulose derivatives, starches and
alginates. These compounds do not provide cosmetic properties that
are good enough to be used alone as thickener or gelling agent.
Moreover, their natural origin may induce problems of
reproducibility between batches of raw material, reflected by a
variability in the gelling power; [0006] crosslinked polymeric
gelling agents such as the Carbopols sold by the company Goodrich
or crosslinked and at least partially neutralized
2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers such as, for
example, the product sold under the name Hostacerin AMPS by the
company Clariant. These crosslinked gelling agents demand that a
specific protocol for dispersion in water or in the oily phase be
followed in order to obtain reproducible levels of viscosity.
Various gelling agents are proposed in order to limit these
dispersion problems, such as, for example, the ETD carbopols, which
are specific "easy to disperse" carbopols, or alternatively
crosslinked gelling agents dispersed in an oil or a mixture of
oils, such as the polyacrylamide sold by the company SEPPIC under
the name Sepigel 305. However, dispersing the ETD Carbopols in
water demands that a specific protocol for swelling the polymer be
followed, whereas the gelling agents supplied as a dispersion in an
oil necessarily introduce an oily phase and surfactants into the
composition.
[0007] Moreover, the gelling agents mentioned above do not have
amphiphilic properties capable of stabilizing the globules of the
dispersed phase in the continuous phase of an emulsion. It is thus
necessary either to introduce emulsifying surfactants in order to
obtain stable emulsions or to introduce only small amounts of oil
(in general less than 10%) and to design highly gelled textures.
However, efforts are continually under way to reduce the amount of
emulsifying surfactant in emulsions in order to improve their
harmlessness with respect to the skin, the eyes and the scalp.
Moreover, it is sought to be able to have the greatest possible
freedom in the formulation, that is to say to be able to obtain a
composition that is stable, irrespective of the amount of oil
introduced and irrespective of the final viscosity of the
composition (greater or lesser extent of gelation).
[0008] Crosslinked amphiphilic gelling agents exist, such as the
products sold by the company Goodrich under the name Pemulen, which
allow larger oil fractions to be incorporated, but they are
generally used in the presence of other hydrophilic gelling agents
since their gelling and cosmetic properties are not large and/or
good.
[0009] There is thus still a need for a compound for gelling an
aqueous phase in order to obtain a broad range of textures, and
having good cosmetic properties, which is easy to disperse in water
and whose thickening/gelling power is reproducible, and which
preferably, moreover, has both gelling and emulsifying
properties.
[0010] The Applicant has discovered, unexpectedly, a novel family
of block polymers that allow the aim of the invention to be
achieved. These block polymers are water-soluble or
water-dispersible polymers of triblock structure B-A-B, in which A
is an ionic water-soluble polymer block and B is a hydrophobic
polymer block; they have aqueous-phase-gelling properties, at
weight concentrations of less than 15% by weight. These polymers
make it possible to obtain a wide range of textures with good
cosmetic properties. These polymers are easy to dissolve or
disperse in water and the gelling properties obtained are
reproducible from one batch to another.
[0011] These polymers also make it possible to prepare cosmetic or
dermatological compositions including an aqueous phase, the pH of
which may vary within a wide range and the viscosity of which
remains stable over time at room temperature or at higher
temperatures. They also make it possible to prepare homogenic,
non-flowing, non-runny products that are soft and slippery when
applied and stable on storage.
[0012] The present invention relates to a cosmetic and/or
dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises at
least one aqueous phase including at least one water-soluble or
water-dispersible polymer, of triblock structure B-A-B in which A
is an ionic water-soluble polymer block and B is a hydrophobic
polymer block, the amount of polymer block A being greater than or
equal to 50% of the total weight of the triblock polymer.
[0013] The proportion of at least 50% of polymer block A makes it
possible to obtain good gelling properties of the polymer.
[0014] In addition, according to one preferred embodiment of the
invention, the triblock polymers used according to the invention as
gelling agents contain an ionic water-soluble polymer block A that
is totally water-soluble, i.e. that is completely free of
hydrophobic monomer, and hydrophobic polymer blocks B that are
totally hydrophobic, i.e. that are completely free of hydrophilic
monomer.
[0015] The preferred triblock polymers, B-A-B, comprising a totally
water-soluble ionic polymer block A and totally hydrophobic polymer
blocks B, have the advantage of being easy to synthesize and of
giving gelation that is as good as the others for lower
concentrations.
[0016] Thus, the composition according to the invention preferably
comprises at least one aqueous phase comprising at least one
water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer, of triblock structure
B-A-B in which A is a totally water-soluble ionic polymer block and
B is a totally hydrophobic polymer block, and in which the amount
of polymer block A is greater than or equal to 50% of the total
weight of the triblock polymer.
[0017] The triblock polymers used according to the invention, and
especially the preferred polymers comprising a totally
water-soluble ionic polymer block A and two totally hydrophobic
polymer blocks B, make it possible to obtain satisfactory gelation
of the aqueous phases of the compositions for topical application,
especially cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
[0018] A subject of the invention is also the use of at least one
water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer, of triblock structure
B-A-B, in which A is an ionic water-soluble polymer block and B is
a hydrophobic polymer block, and in which the amount of polymer
block A is greater than or equal to 50% of the total weight of the
triblock polymer, to gel and/or thicken a cosmetic and/or
dermatological composition comprising at least one aqueous
phase.
[0019] Preferably, a subject of the invention is also the use of at
least one water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer, of triblock
structure B-A-B, in which A is a totally water-soluble ionic
polymer block and B is a totally hydrophobic polymer block, and in
which the amount of polymer block A is greater than or equal to 50%
of the total weight of the triblock polymer, to gel a cosmetic or
dermatological composition comprising at least one aqueous
phase.
[0020] As described above, the triblock polymers used according to
the invention make it possible to obtain good gelation of the
aqueous phases. Moreover, this gelling power has the advantage of
changing relatively little in the presence of surfactants, whether
they are nonionic or ionic (anionic or cationic) and whether they
are emulsifying surfactants or detergent surfactants (or foaming
surfactants). When the amount of surfactant is high (greater than
1%), the gelling power remains, although it may be reduced.
[0021] Moreover, the Applicant has found, unexpectedly, that the
polymers of the invention of triblock structure B-A-B, in which A
is an ionic water-soluble polymer block and B is a hydrophobic
polymer block, the amount of polymer block A being greater than or
equal to 50% of the total weight of the triblock polymer, have the
emulsifying properties and may also be used for preparing
emulsifying surfactant-free emulsions or emulsions containing small
amounts of emulsifying surfactant (from 0 to about 1% by weight
with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably
less than 0.5% by weight), in particular of O/W emulsions. In the
present application, the expression "emulsifying surfactants" means
monomeric surfactants having emulsifying properties.
[0022] Thus, another subject of the invention is a cosmetic and/or
dermatological composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion
comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase,
characterized in that it comprises from 0 to about 1% by weight of
emulsifying surfactant relative to the total weight of the
composition, and in that it is in accordance with the composition
defined above comprising a water-soluble or water-dispersible
polymer, of triblock structure B-A-B, in which A is an ionic
water-soluble polymer block and B is a hydrophobic polymer block,
and in which the amount of polymer block A is greater than or equal
to 50% of the total weight of the triblock polymer. The emulsion
thus obtained is considered as an emulsion that is free of
emulsifying surfactant.
[0023] Moreover, the Applicant has also found, unexpectedly, that
synergistic gelation occurs when use is made of a water-soluble or
water-dispersible polymer, of triblock structure B-A-B in which A
is an ionic water-soluble polymer block and B is a hydrophobic
polymer block, the amount of polymer block A being greater than or
equal to 50% of the total weight of the triblock polymer, with a
water-soluble or water-dispersible neutral diblock polymer A'-B in
which A' is a neutral water-soluble polymer block and B is a
hydrophobic polymer block.
[0024] Thus, a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic and/or
dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises at
least one aqueous phase comprising at least one water-soluble or
water-dispersible polymer, of triblock structure B-A-B in which A
is an ionic water-soluble polymer block and B is a hydrophobic
polymer block, and in which the amount of polymer block A is
greater than or equal to 50% of the total weight of the triblock
polymer, and at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible
neutral diblock polymer A'-B in which A' is a neutral water-soluble
polymer block and B is a hydrophobic polymer block.
[0025] In the present patent application, the expression
"water-soluble or water-dispersible" means polymers which, when
introduced into an aqueous phase at 25.degree. C., at a weight
concentration equal to 1%, allow the production of a
macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a
solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength
equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 70% and
preferably of at least 80%.
[0026] In the present patent application, the expression "polymer
block" means a polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) whose molar mass
is greater than 400 g/mol and preferably greater than 800
g/mol.
[0027] In the present patent application, the expression
"hydrophobic block" means a polymer (homopolymer or copolymer)
which, when introduced into a hydrocarbon solvent at 25.degree. C.,
at a weight concentration equal to 1%, allows the production of a
macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a
solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength
equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 70% and
preferably of at least 80%. The hydrocarbon solvent used herein has
a dielectric constant, measured at 25.degree. C., of less than 50;
this solvent may be chosen especially from alkanes such as
cyclohexane (dielectric constant: 2.02); aromatic solvents such as
ethylbenzene (dielectric constant: 2.4); ketones such as
cyclohexanone (dielectric constant: 18.3); ethers such as diethyl
ether (dielectric constant=4.4); alcohols such as cyclohexanol
(dielectric constant: 15.0); chlorohydrocarbon solvents such as
dichloromethane (dielectric constant: 9.08); amides such as
dimethylformamide; and esters such as ethylacetate (dielectric
constant: 6.02).
[0028] Since the compositions of the invention are intended for
topical application, they contain a physiologically acceptable
medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials
such as the skin, the nails, mucous membranes and the hair or any
other area of body skin.
[0029] In the water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers of
triblock structure B-A-B, used in the composition of the invention,
the ionic water-soluble block A is obtained from one or more
water-soluble monomers (Ia) or salts thereof, such as, for
example:
[0030] (meth)acrylic acid,
[0031] styrenesulfonic acid,
[0032] vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,
[0033] vinylphosphonic acid,
[0034] maleic acid,
[0035] itaconic acid,
[0036] crotonic acid,
[0037] methyldiallylammonium chloride,
[0038] dimethylvinylimidazolium chloride,
[0039] ethylenic carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines obtained, for
example, by quaternization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers
including an amine function, with sodium salts of carboxylic acids
containing a labile halogen (e.g.: chloroacetate) or with cyclic
sulfones (e.g.: propanesulfone),
[0040] water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (I) below: ##STR1##
in which:
[0041] R is chosen from H, --CH.sub.3, --C.sub.2H.sub.5 and
--C.sub.3H.sub.7;
[0042] X is chosen from: [0043] alkyloxides of the type --OR.sub.1
in which R.sub.1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
substituted with at least one carboxylate (CO.sub.2.sup.-) and/or
sulfonic (--SO.sub.3.sup.-) and/or sulfate (--SO.sub.4.sup.-)
and/or phosphate (--PO.sub.4H.sub.2.sup.-) and/or quaternary
ammonium (--N.sup.+R.sub.2R.sub.3R.sub.4) group, the radicals
R.sub.2, R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 being, independently of each other, a
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical
containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of
the carbon atoms of R.sub.1+R.sub.2+R.sub.3+R.sub.4 does not exceed
6. In addition, the radical R.sub.1 may optionally be substituted
with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a
hydroxyl (--OH); carboxylic acid (--COOH); ether (--O--); primary
amine (--NH.sub.2); secondary amine (--NHR.sub.5); tertiary amine
(--NR.sub.5R.sub.6) group, the radicals R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 being,
independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.1+R.sub.5+R.sub.6 does not exceed 6.
[0044] An example of vinyl monomers including ester groups
(X.dbd.OR.sub.1) that may be mentioned is quaternized
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (DMAEMA).
[0045] groups --NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.7 and --NR.sub.7R.sub.8 in
which R.sub.7 and R.sub.8 are, independently of each other, a
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical
containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total
number of carbon atoms of R.sub.7+R.sub.8 does not exceed 6, the
said radicals R.sub.7 and/or R.sub.8 being substituted with at
least one carboxylate (CO.sub.2.sup.-) and/or sulfonic
(--SO.sub.3.sup.-) and/or sulfate (--SO.sub.4.sup.-) and/or
phosphate (--PO.sub.4H.sub.2.sup.-) and/or quaternary amine
(--N.sup.+R.sub.9R.sub.10R.sub.11) group, the radicals R.sub.9,
R.sub.10 and R.sub.11 being, independently of each other, a linear
or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical
containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of
the carbon atoms of R.sub.7+R.sub.8+R.sub.9+R.sub.10+R.sub.11 does
not exceed 6. In addition, the radicals R.sub.7 and/or R.sub.8 may
optionally be substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine,
chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl (--OH); carboxylic acid (COOH),
ether (--O--); primary amine (--NH.sub.2); secondary amine
(--NHR.sub.5); or tertiary amine (--NR.sub.5R.sub.6) group, in
which R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 have the meanings given above, with the
proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.7+R.sub.8+R.sub.5+R.sub.6 does not exceed 6.
[0046] Examples of vinyl monomers including amide groups that may
be mentioned are 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS)
and (meth)acrylamido-propyltrimethylammonium chloride (APTAC and
MAPTAC);
[0047] the substituents R and X being such that the monomer of
formula (I) is water-soluble;
[0048] and mixtures of these monomers (Ia).
[0049] Along with the water-soluble monomers (Ia) mentioned above
and always present, the ionic water-soluble block A of the polymers
of the invention may optionally comprise one or more monomers
chosen from hydrophobic monomers (Ib), neutral water-soluble
monomers (Ic) and mixtures thereof. The hydrophobic monomers
optionally present should be in an amount that is low enough for
the block A to be water-soluble.
[0050] As examples of hydrophobic monomers (Ib) that may be used in
the ionic water-soluble block A, mention may be made of:
[0051] styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butyl-styrene,
.alpha.-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;
[0052] vinyl acetate of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CH--OCOCH.sub.3;
[0053] vinyl ethers of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CHOR.sub.12 in which
R.sub.12 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0054] acrylonitrile;
[0055] caprolactone;
[0056] vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;
[0057] unsaturated silicone monomers such as
methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone
ethacrylamides,
[0058] hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (II) below: ##STR2##
in which:
[0059] R.sub.13 is chosen from H, --CH.sub.3, --C.sub.2H.sub.5 and
--C.sub.3H.sub.7;
[0060] X.sub.1 is chosen from: [0061] alkyloxides of the type
--OR.sub.14 in which R.sub.14 is a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon
atoms. Examples of monomers of this type that may be mentioned are
methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate,
tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate
and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate. [0062] groups --NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.15
and --NR.sub.15R.sub.16 in which R.sub.15 and R.sub.16 are,
independently of each other, linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms of
R.sub.15+R.sub.16 does not exceed 6.
[0063] the substituents R.sub.13 and X.sub.1 being such that the
monomer of formula (II) is hydrophobic.
[0064] and mixtures of these monomers.
[0065] Examples of neutral water-soluble monomers (Ic) that may be
mentioned include:
[0066] (meth)acrylamide,
[0067] N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,
[0068] N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,
[0069] maleic anhydride,
[0070] vinylamine,
[0071] N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing
from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinyl-pyrrolidone,
N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
[0072] vinyl alcohol of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CHOH,
[0073] water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (III) below:
##STR3## in which:
[0074] R.sub.17 is chosen from H, --CH.sub.3, --C.sub.2H.sub.5 and
--C.sub.3H.sub.7;
[0075] X.sub.2 is chosen from: [0076] alkyloxides of the type
--OR.sub.18 in which R.sub.18 is a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon
atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine,
chlorine or fluorine); a carboxylic acid (--COOH), hydroxyl (--OH);
ether (--O--); primary amine (--NH.sub.2); secondary amine
(--NHR.sub.19) or tertiary amine (--NR.sub.19R.sub.20) group, the
radicals R.sub.19 and R.sub.20 being, independently of each other,
a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical
containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of
the carbon atoms of R.sub.18+R.sub.19+R.sub.20 does not exceed 6.
Examples of monomers of formula (III) in which X.sub.2 is a radical
--OR.sub.18 that may be mentioned include glycidyl (meth)acrylate,
hydroxyethyl methacrylate and ethylene glycol (meth)acrylate,
diethylene glycol (meth)acrylate and polyalkylene glycol
(meth)acrylates. [0077] groups --NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.21 and
--NR.sub.21R.sub.22 in which R.sub.21 and R.sub.22 are,
independently of each other, linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms of
R.sub.21+R.sub.22 does not exceed 6, the said radicals R.sub.21 and
R.sub.22 optionally being substituted with a halogen atom (iodine,
bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl (--OH); carboxylic acid
(CO.sub.2H); ether (--O--); primary amine (--NH.sub.2); secondary
amine (--NHR.sub.23); or tertiary amine (--NR.sub.23R.sub.24)
group, the radicals R.sub.23 and R.sub.24 being, independently of
each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the
proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.21+R.sub.22+R.sub.23+R.sub.24 does not exceed 6. Examples of
monomers of this type that may be mentioned include
dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide and N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
[0078] the substituents R.sub.17 and X.sub.2 being such that the
monomer of formula (III) is water-soluble.
[0079] mixtures of these monomers (Ic).
[0080] In addition to the water-soluble monomers mentioned above,
the ionic water-soluble block A may also be an ionic water-soluble
polymer such as, for example, polyethyleneimine.
[0081] The ionic water-soluble block A is totally or partially
neutralized. The expression "partially neutralized" means a
neutralization of at least 20 mol %. The degree of neutralization
is preferably at least 30% and better still from 40 to 100 mol %.
The ionic water-soluble block A may be neutralized with a mineral
or organic base. This base may be chosen, for example, from sodium,
ammonium, lithium, calcium or magnesium salts, ammonium salts
substituted with 1 to 4 alkyl groups bearing from 1 to 15 carbon
atoms, or from organic bases such as monoethanolamine,
diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminoethylpropanediol or
N-methylglucamine, and basic amino acids, such as arginine and
lysine, and mixtures thereof.
[0082] The hydrophobic block B is obtained from one or more
hydrophobic monomers (Id) such as, for example:
[0083] styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butyl-styrene,
.alpha.-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene,
[0084] vinyl acetate of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CH--OCOCH.sub.3,
[0085] vinyl ethers of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CHOR.sub.25 in which
R.sub.25 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms,
[0086] acrylonitrile,
[0087] vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride,
[0088] caprolactone,
[0089] alkenes such as ethylene, propylene, butylene and
butadiene,
[0090] unsaturated silicone monomers such as
methacryl-oxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone
methacrylamides, and also silicone derivatives leading, after
polymerization, to silicone polymers such as
polydimethylsiloxane,
[0091] hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (IV) below: ##STR4##
in which:
[0092] R.sub.26 is chosen from H, --CH.sub.3, --C.sub.2H.sub.5 or
--C.sub.3H.sub.7;
[0093] X.sub.3 is chosen from: [0094] alkyloxides of the type
--OR.sub.27 in which R.sub.27 is a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 22 carbon
atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine,
chlorine or fluorine); a carboxylate (--CO.sub.2.sup.-), sulfonic
(--SO.sub.3.sup.-), sulfate (--SO.sub.4.sup.-), phosphate
(--PO.sub.4H.sub.2.sup.-), hydroxyl (--OH), carboxylic acid
(--COOH), ether (--O--), primary amine (--NH.sub.2), secondary
amine (--NHR.sub.28) tertiary amine (--NR.sub.28R.sub.29) or
quaternary ammonium (--N.sup.+R.sub.28R.sub.29R.sub.30) group, the
radicals R.sub.28, R.sub.29 and R.sub.30 being, independently of
each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the
proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.27+R.sub.28+R.sub.29+R.sub.30 does not exceed 22; or R.sub.27
is a perfluoroalkyl radical preferably containing from 1 to 18
carbon atoms.
[0095] As examples of hydrophobic vinyl monomers including alkyl
oxide groups of the type --OR.sub.27, mention may be made of methyl
methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate,
tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate
and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate. Examples of monomers of formula (IV)
with a perfluoroalkyl radical constituting the group R.sub.27 that
may be mentioned include ethylperfluorooctyl acrylate and
trifluoromethyl (meth)acrylate;
[0096] groups --NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.31 and --NR.sub.31R.sub.32 in
which the radicals R.sub.31 and R.sub.32 are, independently of each
other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon
radical containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the
total number of carbon atoms of R.sub.31+R.sub.32 does not exceed
22, the said radicals R.sub.31 and R.sub.32 optionally being
substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or
fluorine); a hydroxyl (--OH), ether (--O--), carboxylate
(--CO.sub.2.sup.-), sulfonic (--SO.sub.3.sup.-), sulfate
(--SO.sub.4.sup.-), phosphate (--PO.sub.4H.sub.2.sup.-), carboxylic
acid (--COOH), primary amine (--NH.sub.2), secondary amine
(--NHR.sub.28), tertiary amine (--NR.sub.28R.sub.29) or quaternary
ammonium (--N.sup.+R.sub.28R.sub.29R.sub.30) group, in which
R.sub.28, R.sub.29 and R.sub.30 have the same meanings as those
given above, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.31+R.sub.32+R.sub.28+R.sub.29+R.sub.30 does not exceed 22.
R.sub.3, and R.sub.32, independently of each other, may also be a
perfluoroalkyl radical preferably containing from 1 to 18 carbon
atoms.
[0097] the substituents R.sub.26 and X.sub.3 being such that the
monomer of formula (IV) is hydrophobic;
[0098] and mixtures of these monomers (Id).
[0099] Along with the hydrophobic monomers (Id) mentioned above and
always present, the hydrophobic block B of the polymers of the
invention may optionally be obtained from one or more ionic or
neutral water-soluble monomers (Ie), the said water-soluble
monomers being present in an amount that is low enough for the
block B to be hydrophobic.
[0100] Examples of water-soluble monomers (Ie) that may be
mentioned include the following compounds, or salts thereof:
[0101] (meth)acrylic acid;
[0102] styrenesulfonic acid;
[0103] vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid;
[0104] vinylphosphonic acid;
[0105] maleic anhydride;
[0106] maleic acid;
[0107] itaconic acid;
[0108] crotonic acid;
[0109] dimethyldiallylammonium chloride;
[0110] methylvinylimidazolium chloride;
[0111] (meth)acrylamide;
[0112] N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide;
[0113] N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide;
[0114] N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing
from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinyl-pyrrolidone,
N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
[0115] vinyl alcohol of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CHOH;
[0116] 2-vinylpyridine and 4-vinylpyridine;
[0117] the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (V) below:
##STR5## in which:
[0118] R.sub.33 is chosen from H, --CH.sub.3, --C.sub.2H.sub.5 and
--C.sub.3H.sub.7;
[0119] X.sub.4 is chosen from: [0120] alkyloxides of the type
--OR.sub.34 in which R.sub.34 is a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon
atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine,
chlorine or fluorine); a carboxylate (--COO.sup.-), carboxylic acid
(--COOH), sulfonic (--SO.sub.3.sup.-), sulfate (--SO.sub.4.sup.-),
phosphate (--PO.sub.4H.sub.2--), hydroxyl (--OH), ether (--O--),
primary amine (--NH.sub.2), secondary amine (--NHR.sub.35),
tertiary amine (--NR.sub.35R.sub.36) or a quaternary ammonium
(--N.sup.+R.sub.35R.sub.36R.sub.37) group, the radicals R.sub.35,
R.sub.36 and R.sub.37 being, independently of each other, a linear
or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical
containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of
the carbon atoms of R.sub.34+R.sub.35+R.sub.36+R.sub.37 does not
exceed 6.
[0121] Examples of vinyl monomers including ester groups
(X.sub.4=OR.sub.34) that may be mentioned include quaternized
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (DMAEMA), glycidyl (meth)acrylate,
hydroxyethyl methacrylate and ethylene glycol (meth)acrylate,
diethylene glycol (meth)acrylate or polyalkylene glycol
(meth)acrylates.
[0122] groups --NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.38 and --NR.sub.38R.sub.39 in
which the radicals R.sub.38 and R.sub.39 are, independently of each
other, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon
radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the
total number of carbon atoms of R.sub.38+R.sub.39 does not exceed
6, the said radicals R.sub.38 and/or R.sub.39 optionally being
substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or
fluorine); a carboxylate (--COO.sup.-), sulfonic
(--SO.sub.3.sup.-); sulfate (SO.sub.4.sup.-); phosphate
(--PO.sub.4H.sub.2.sup.-); hydroxyl (--OH); carboxylic acid
(--COOH); ether (--O--); primary amine (--NH.sub.2); secondary
amine (--NHR.sub.35); tertiary amine (--NR.sub.35R.sub.36) or a
quaternary ammonium (--N.sup.+R.sub.35R.sub.36R.sub.37) group, in
which R.sub.35, R.sub.36 and R.sub.37 have the same meaning as
mentioned above, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms
of R.sub.38+R.sub.39+R.sub.35+R.sub.36+R.sub.37 does not exceed
6.
[0123] Examples of water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (V)
including amide groups that may be mentioned are
2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS),
(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (APTAC and MAPTAC)
and N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
[0124] the substituents R.sub.33 and X.sub.4 being such that the
monomer of formula (V) is water-soluble.
[0125] and mixtures of the monomers (Ie).
[0126] In the triblock polymer B-A-B, the two blocks B may be
identical or different.
[0127] The triblock polymers used in the composition of the
invention have a molar mass ranging from 1000 g/mol to 500 000
g/mol and preferably from 2000 g/mol to 300 000 g/mol. The ionic
water-soluble block A has a molar mass ranging from 600 g/mol to
300 000 g/mol and preferably from 1200 g/mol to 180 000 g/mol. The
hydrophobic block B has a molar mass ranging from 400 g/mol to 200
000 g/mol and preferably from 800 g/mol to 120 000 g/mol.
[0128] In order to have a water-soluble polymer, the proportion of
the ionic hydrophilic block A in the polymer of the invention is
greater than or equal to 50% by weight and is preferably greater
than 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the triblock
polymer (block A+blocks B).
[0129] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, if
the block polymer used in the composition of the invention contains
an aromatic nucleus, this nucleus is present in only one block (A
or B) but never simultaneously in blocks A and B.
[0130] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the
triblock polymer comprises, as block A, sodium polyacrylate and, as
block B, polystyrene. It may be in particular polystyrene (2500
g/mol)-sodium polyacrylate (29 800 g/mol)-polystyrene (2500
g/mol).
[0131] The block polymers of the invention may be prepared by the
synthetic processes conventionally used to obtain block polymers.
Examples of preparation processes that may be mentioned include
polymerizations of anionic or cationic type and controlled
free-radical polymerization (see "New Method of Polymer Synthesis",
Blackie Academic & Professional, London, 1995, Volume 2, page
1, or Trends Polym. Sci. 4, page 183 (1996) from C. J. Hawker),
which may be carried out according to various processes such as,
for example, the atom transfer approach (Atom Transfer Radical
Polymerization or ATRP) (see JACS, 117, page 5614 (1995) from
Matyjasezwski et al.), the method via radicals such as nitroxides
(Georges et al., Macromolecules, 1993, 26, 2987) or the reversible
chain transfer approach with addition-fragmentation (Radical
Addition-Fragmentation chain Transfer) such as the MADIX process
(Macromolecular Design via the Interchange of Xanthate) (Charmot
D., Corpart P., Adam H., Zard S. Z., Biadatti T., Bouhadir G.,
Macromol. Symp., 2000, 150, 23). The triblock polymers used in the
composition of the invention may be obtained by these synthetic
processes. These processes may also be used to obtain only one of
the two types of blocks of the polymer of the invention, the other
block being introduced into the final polymer by means of the
primer used or alternatively by a coupling reaction between the
blocks A and B.
[0132] The amount of triblock polymer(s) in the composition of the
invention can vary depending on the type of composition that it is
desired to obtain and the desired degree of gelation. It can range,
for example, from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to
15% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] As above-mentioned, synergism is observed when the triblock
polymers B-A-B are used with diblocks polymers A'-B comprising a
neutral water-soluble polymer block A' and a hydrophobic polymer
block B. Thus, the polymers of the invention may be used as gelling
agents, either alone (one or more triblock polymers B-A-B) or in
combination with one or more water-soluble or water-dispersible
polymers of diblock structure A'-B in which A' is a neutral
water-soluble polymer block and B is a hydrophobic polymer block as
defined above for the triblock copolymer. The amount of ionic
triblock polymer B-A-B in the mixture of ionic triblock polymers
B-A-B and of neutral diblock polymers A'-B is greater than 10% by
weight and preferably greater than 20% by weight relative to the
total amount of triblock and diblock polymers, which means that,
out of 100% of mixture, there must be at least 10% triblock
polymer(s).
[0134] In the neutral water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers
A'-B, the hydrophobic polymer block B has the same definition as
that given above for the triblock polymers.
[0135] The neutral water-soluble block A' may be a
polyoxyalkylenated and especially polyoxyethylenated or
polyoxypropylenated polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) such as, for
example, polyethylene oxide (PEO), polypropylene oxide (PPO),
copolymers of ethylene oxide (EO) or of propylene oxide (PO) and
mixtures thereof.
[0136] The neutral water-soluble block A' may also be obtained from
one or more water-soluble monomers (If) and mixtures thereof, such
as, for example:
[0137] (meth)acrylamide,
[0138] N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,
[0139] N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,
[0140] N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing
from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinyl-pyrrolidone,
N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
[0141] vinyl alcohol of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CHOH,
[0142] maleic anhydride,
[0143] vinylamine,
[0144] water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (VI) below: ##STR6##
in which:
[0145] R.sub.40 is chosen from H, --CH.sub.3, --C.sub.2H.sub.5 and
--C.sub.3H.sub.7;
[0146] X.sub.5 is chosen from: [0147] alkyloxides of the type
--OR.sub.41 in which R.sub.41 is a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon
atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine,
chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl (--OH); carboxylic acid (--COOH),
ether (--O--); primary amine (--NH.sub.2); secondary amine
(--NHR.sub.42): or tertiary amine (--NR.sub.42R.sub.43) group, the
radicals R.sub.42 and R.sub.43 being, independently of each other,
a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical
containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of
the carbon atoms of R.sub.41+R.sub.42+R.sub.43 does not exceed
6.
[0148] As examples of water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (VI)
including ester groups, mention may be made of glycidyl
(meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and ethylene glycol
(meth)acrylate, diethylene glycol (meth)acrylate or polyalkylene
glycol (meth)acrylates.
[0149] groups --NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.44 and --NR.sub.44R.sub.45 in
which R.sub.44 and R.sub.45 are, independently of each other,
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals
containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total
number of carbon atoms of R.sub.44+R.sub.45 does not exceed 6, the
said radicals R.sub.44 and R.sub.45 optionally being substituted
with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a
carboxylic acid (--COOH); hydroxyl (--OH); ether (--O--); primary
amine (--NH.sub.2); secondary amine (--NHR.sub.46); or tertiary
amine (--NR.sub.46R.sub.47) group, the radicals R.sub.46 and
R.sub.47 being, independently of each other, a linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 6
carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of
R.sub.44+R.sub.45+R.sub.46+R.sub.47 does not exceed 6.
[0150] An example of a water-soluble vinyl monomer of formula (VI)
including amide groups that may be mentioned is
N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
[0151] the substituents R.sub.40 and X.sub.5 being such that the
monomer of formula (VI) is water-soluble;
[0152] and mixtures of these monomers (If).
[0153] Along with the monomers (If), the neutral water-soluble
block A' may optionally also be obtained from hydrophobic monomers
(Ig), the said hydrophobic monomers being present in an amount that
is low enough relative to the monomers (If) for the block A' to be
water-soluble.
[0154] Examples of hydrophobic monomers (Ig) that may be mentioned
include:
[0155] styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butyl-styrene,
.alpha.-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene,
[0156] vinyl acetate of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CH--OCOCH.sub.3;
[0157] vinyl ethers of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CHOR.sub.48 in which
R.sub.48 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0158] acrylonitrile,
[0159] caprolactone,
[0160] vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride,
[0161] unsaturated silicone monomers, such as
methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone
methacrylamides,
[0162] the hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (VII) below:
##STR7## in which:
[0163] R.sub.49 is chosen from H, --CH.sub.3, --C.sub.2H.sub.5 and
--C.sub.3H.sub.7;
[0164] X.sub.6 is chosen from: [0165] alkyloxides of the type
--OR.sub.50 in which R.sub.50 is a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon
atoms. Examples of hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (VII)
including ester groups that may be mentioned include methyl
methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate,
tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate
and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate; [0166] groups --NH.sub.2, --NHR.sub.5,
and --NR.sub.51R.sub.52 in which R.sub.51 and R.sub.52 are,
independently of each other, linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms of
R.sub.51+R.sub.52 does not exceed 6;
[0167] the substituents R.sub.49 and X.sub.6 being such that the
monomer of formula (VII) is hydrophobic;
[0168] and mixtures of these monomers (Ig).
[0169] The neutral diblock copolymers A'-B have a molar mass
ranging from 1000 g/mol to 500 000 g/mol and preferably from 2000
g/mol to 300 000 g/mol. The neutral water-soluble block A' has a
molar mass ranging from 500 g/mol to 250 000 g/mol and preferably
from 1000 g/mol to 150 000 g/mol. The hydrophobic block B has a
molar mass ranging from 500 g/mol to 250 000 g/mol and preferably
from 1000 g/mol to 150 000 g/mol.
[0170] The amount of the neutral hydrophilic block A' in the
diblock copolymer A'-B is greater than 50% of the total weight of
the diblock polymer and preferably greater than 60% of the total
weight of the diblock polymer.
[0171] The cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the invention
may have a pH that varies within a wide range and that may be, for
example, from 2 to 10, preferably from 3 to 8 and better still from
4 to 7.
[0172] The aqueous phase of the compositions according to the
invention comprises at least water. The compositions of the
invention may contain, in addition to water, at least one oily
phase and/or one or more hydrophilic, lipophilic and/or amphiphilic
organic solvents that are physiologically acceptable, i.e. well
tolerated and that give a cosmetically acceptable feel.
[0173] The organic solvents can represent from 5% to 50% of the
total weight of the composition. The organic solvents may be chosen
from the group consisting of hydrophilic organic solvents,
lipophilic organic solvents and amphiphilic solvents, or mixtures
thereof. The amount of water preferably ranges from 10% to 99.99%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] Among the organic solvents that may be mentioned, for
example, are linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from
1 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, propanol, butanol,
isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols such as propylene glycol,
isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol or sorbitol; monoalkyl
or dialkyl isosorbide in which the alkyl groups contain from 1 to 5
carbon atoms, for instance dimethyl isosorbide; polyethylene
glycols, especially those containing from 6 to 80 ethylene oxides;
ethylene glycol ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monomethyl
or monoethyl ether; propylene glycol ethers, for instance
dipropylene glycol methyl ether; polyol esters and ethers, such as
polypropylene glycol (PPG) esters and more especially fatty acid
esters of polypropylene glycol (PPG), fatty alkyl ethers of PPG,
for instance PPG-23 oleyl ether and PPG-36 oleate; fatty acid alkyl
esters, such as diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate or alkyl
benzoates; and mixtures thereof.
[0175] The composition of the invention may comprise at least one
fatty phase, also known as an oily phase. The fatty phase or oily
phase may represent from 0% to 50% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition. In an emulsion, the oily phase
preferably represents from 0.1% to 50% by weight and better still
from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0176] The fatty phase or oily phase usually contains at least one
oil. As oils that may be used in the composition of the invention,
mention may be made, for example, of:
[0177] hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as
perhydrosqualene;
[0178] hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid
triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms,
for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or
alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil,
marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,
macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil,
caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the
company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol
810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or karite
butter oil;
[0179] synthetic esters and synthetic ethers, especially of fatty
acids, for instance oils of formulae R.sup.aCOOR.sup.b and
R.sup.aOR.sup.b in which R.sup.a represents a fatty acid residue
containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R.sup.b represents a
branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to
30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl
isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,
2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl
isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl
hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate,
triisocetyl citrate and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates and
decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol
dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol
diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance
pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
[0180] linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic
origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and
derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated
polyisobutene such as Parleam.RTM. oil;
[0181] fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for
instance cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof
(cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol,
2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl
alcohol;
[0182] alkoxylated and especially ethoxylated fatty alcohols such
as oleth-12, ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20;
[0183] partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro
oils, for instance those described in document JP-A-2 295 912.
Examples of fluoro oils which may also be mentioned include
perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane,
sold under the names "Flutec PC1.RTM." and "Flutec PC3.RTM." by the
company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane;
perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and
tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050.RTM." and "PF
5060.RTM." by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyl
sold under the name "Foralkyl.RTM." by the company Atochem;
nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name "MSX 4518.RTM." by the
company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine
derivatives, such as the 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold
under the name "PF 5052.RTM." by the company 3M;
[0184] silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile
polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing a linear or cyclic silicone
chain, that are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially
cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as
cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy
or phenyl groups, that are pendant or at the end of a silicone
chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms;
phenylsilicones, for instance phenyltrimethicones,
phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes,
diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes,
2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates and
polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
[0185] mixtures thereof.
[0186] In the list of oils mentioned above, the expression
"hydrocarbon-based oil" means any oil mainly comprising carbon and
hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic
acid and/or alcohol groups.
[0187] The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily
phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon
atoms, for instance stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and
oleic acid; waxes, for instance lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or
candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite wax or microcrystalline
waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene
waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; gums such as silicone gums
(dimethiconol); silicone resins such as
trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyl-dimethicone and
trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers, for instance
the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu,
under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow
Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant
Industries.
[0188] These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a
person skilled in the art so as to prepare a composition having the
desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or
texture.
[0189] The composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous
phase alone, or an aqueous phase and a fatty phase (W/O or O/W
emulsion) or several aqueous phases and one fatty phase (W/O/W
emulsion) or one aqueous phase and several fatty phases (O/W/O
emulsion). It may thus constitute a solution, a gel or an emulsion
(simple or multiple).
[0190] When the composition is an emulsion, it may contain no
emulsifying surfactant, but it may also contain at least one
emulsifying surfactant. The emulsifying surfactants are chosen in a
suitable manner according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or
O/W emulsion).
[0191] For the O/W emulsions, it is possible to use, for example,
as emulsifying surfactant, a nonionic emulsifying surfactant, for
instance saccharide esters and ethers such as sucrose stearate,
sucrose cocoate and the mixture of sorbitan stearate and of sucrose
cocoate sold by the company ICI under the name Arlatone 2121.RTM.;
polyol esters, in particular glycerol or sorbitol esters, such as
glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate and sorbitan stearate;
glycerol ethers; oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers such
as the oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated ether of lauryl alcohol
containing 25 oxyethylene groups and 25 oxypropylene groups (CTFA
name "PPG-25 laureth-25") and the oxyethylenated ether of the
mixture of C.sub.12-C.sub.15 fatty alcohols containing 7
oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "C.sub.12-C.sub.15 Pareth-7");
ethylene glycol polymers such as PEG-100, and mixtures thereof.
[0192] For the W/O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as
emulsifying surfactants, of fatty esters of a polyol, in particular
of glycerol or of sorbitol, and in particular polyol isostearates,
oleates and ricinoleates, such as the mixture of petrolatum, of
polyglyceryl-3 oleate and of glyceryl isostearate, hydrogenated
castor oil and of ozokerite, sold under the name Protegin W.RTM. by
the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl
diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate; saccharide esters
and ethers such as "methyl glucose dioleate"; fatty esters such as
magnesium lanolate; dimethicone copolyols and alkyldimethicone
copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow
Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and Cetyl
dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90.RTM. by the
company Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.
[0193] The emulsifying surfactants may be introduced in unmodified
form or in the form of a mixture with other emulsifying surfactants
and/or with other compounds such as fatty alcohols or oils.
[0194] It is also possible to use, as emulsifiers, amphiphilic
polymers such as modified acrylic copolymers such as, for example,
the products sold under the names Pemulen by the company Goodrich;
copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid containing
a hydrophobic chain, as described in document EP-A-1 069 142
incorporated here by way of reference; polyolefins containing an
optionally esterified or amidated succinic end group, for instance
the compounds described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 4,234,435, U.S.
Pat. No. 4,708,753, U.S. Pat. No. 5,129,972, U.S. Pat. No.
4,931,110, GB-A-2 156 799 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,919,179, which are
incorporated herein for reference. Polyolefins containing a
succinic end group that may be mentioned especially include
polyisobutylenes containing a modified succinic end group, such as
the products sold under the names L2724 and L2721 by the company
Lubrizol.
[0195] The amount of emulsifying surfactant can range from 0% to 1%
in the emulsions said to be free of emulsifying surfactant. In the
other emulsions, the amount of emulsifiers (emulsifying surfactant
and/or amphiphilic polymer) can range from 0.01% to 10% of the
total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0196] In a known manner, all the compositions of the invention can
contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics and dermatology,
other standard hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners and/or gelling
agents; foaming surfactants; polymers; moisturizers; emollients;
hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers;
sequestering agents; antioxidants; preserving agents; acidifying or
basifying agents; fragrances; pigments; fillers; film-forming
agents; dyestuffs and mixtures thereof. The amounts of these
various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under
consideration.
Gelling Agents
[0197] Examples of gelling agents that may be mentioned include
hydrophilic polymers such as carboxyvinyl polymers, for instance
carbomers; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers that
are soluble or dispersible in aqueous phase, for instance the
polymer sold under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" by the company
Clariant; synthetic neutral polymers, for instance
polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or polyvinyl acetate (PVA);
polysaccharides, for instance guar gum, xanthan gum and cellulose
derivatives such as, for example, hydroxyethylcellulose;
water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives, for
instance acrylic silicones and cationic silicones. Lipophilic
gelling agents, such as modified clays or modified polysaccharides,
may also be used.
Active Agents
[0198] As active agents that may be used in the composition of the
invention, examples that may be mentioned include moisturizers and,
for example, protein hydrolysates and polyols such as glycerol,
glycols, for instance polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives;
natural extracts; anti-inflammatory agents; procyannidol oligomers;
vitamins, for instance vitamin A (retinol), vitamin C (ascorbic
acid), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3
(niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters)
and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as
cojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its
derivatives; .alpha.-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic
acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids such as carotenoids and
vitamin A derivatives; sunscreens; hydrocortisone; melatonin;
algal, fungal, plant, yeast or bacterial extracts; enzymes; DHEA
and its derivatives and metabolites; antibacterial active agents,
for instance 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or
Triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or Triclocarban) and the
acids indicated above and especially salicylic acid and its
derivatives; matt-effect agents, for instance fibres; tensioning
agents; and mixtures thereof.
Foaming Surfactants
[0199] Foaming surfactants that may be mentioned include nonionic,
anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic foaming surfactants and
mixtures thereof.
[0200] The nonionic foaming surfactants may be chosen, for example,
from alkyl polyglucosides (APG), maltose esters, polyglycerolated
fatty alcohols, glucamine derivatives, for instance
2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methylglucamine, and mixtures thereof.
Alkylpolyglucosides that may be mentioned more particularly include
decylglucoside (alkyl-C9/C11-polyglucoside (1.4)), for instance the
product sold under the name Mydol 10.RTM. by the company Kao
Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP.RTM.
by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name Oramix
NS 10.RTM. by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for
instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110.RTM. by the
company SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, for instance the products sold
under the names Plantaren 1200 N.RTM. and Plantacare 1200.RTM. by
the company Henkel; and cocoglucoside, for instance the product
sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP.RTM. by the company
Henkel.
[0201] The anionic surfactants may be chosen especially from
carboxylates; amino acid derivatives such as sarcosinates and
especially acylsarcosinates, for instance sodium lauroyl
sarcosinate or sodium myristoyl sarcosinate; alkyl sulfates; alkyl
ether sulfates, for instance sodium lauryl ether sulfate and
ammonium lauryl ether sulfate; sulfonates such as, for example,
.alpha.-olefin sulfonates; isethionates and acylisethionates, for
instance sodium cocoylisethionate; taurates; sulfosuccinates; alkyl
sulfoacetates; phosphates and alkyl phosphates, for instance lauryl
phosphate; polypeptides; anionic derivatives of alkyl
polyglucoside; fatty acid soaps, for instance the potassium or
sodium salts of lauric, myristic, palmitic or stearic acid
(potassium or sodium laurate, myristate, palmitate or stearate);
and mixtures thereof.
[0202] The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants may be chosen,
for example, from betaines, for instance cocobetaine,
laurylbetaine, oxyethylenated laurylbetaine or oxyethylenated
stearylbetaine; N-alkylamidobetaines, for instance cocamidopropyl
betaine; glycine derivatives, for instance sodium or potassium
N-cocoylglycinate; sultaines, for instance
cocoyl-amidopropylhydroxysulfobetaine; alkyl polyaminocarboxylates;
alkylamphoacetates, for instance N-disodium
N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine and
N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine;
and mixtures thereof.
Sunscreens
[0203] The sunscreens may be chosen from organic screening agents
and physical sunblock screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0204] Examples of UV-A-active and/or UV-B-active organic screening
agents that may be mentioned include those designated above under
their CTFA name:
Para-Aminobenzoic Acid Derivatives:
[0205] PABA, [0206] Ethyl PABA, [0207] Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA,
[0208] Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name
"Escalol 507" by ISP, [0209] Glyceryl PABA, [0210] PEG-25 PABA sold
under the name "Uvinul P25" by BASF,
[0211] Salicylic Derivatives: [0212] Homosalate sold under the name
"Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM Industries, [0213] Ethylhexyl salicylate
sold under the name "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer,
[0214] Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name "Dipsal"
by Scher, [0215] TEA salicylate sold under the name "Neo Heliopan
TS" by Haarmann and Reimer,
[0216] Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives: [0217] Butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name
"Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann La Roche, [0218]
Isopropyldibenzoylmethane,
[0219] Cinnamic Derivatives: [0220] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
sold in particular under the name "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann La
Roche, [0221] Isoproyl methoxycinnamate, [0222] Isoamyl methoxy
cinnamate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by
Haarmann and Reimer, [0223] Cinoxate, [0224] DEA methoxycinnamate,
[0225] Diisopropyl methylcinnamate, [0226] Glyceryl ethylhexanoate
dimethoxycinnamate
[0227] .beta.,.beta.'-Diphenylacrylate Derivatives: [0228]
Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul N539"
by BASF, [0229] Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name
"Uvinul N35" by BASF,
[0230] Benzophenone Derivatives: [0231] Benzophenone-1 sold under
the trade name "Uvinul 400" by BASF, [0232] Benzophenone-2 sold
under the trade name "Uvinul D50" by BASF, [0233] Benzophenone-3 or
Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "Uvinul M40" by BASF, [0234]
Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF,
[0235] Benzophenone-5 [0236] Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade
name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay [0237] Benzophenone-8 sold under the
trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid [0238]
Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF,
[0239] Benzophenone-12
[0240] Benzylidenecamphor Derivatives: [0241] 3-Benzylidenecamphor
manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex, [0242]
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "Eusolex 6300" by
Merck, [0243] Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid manufactured under
the name "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex, [0244] Camphor benzalkonium
methosulfate manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex,
[0245] Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid manufactured under
the name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex, [0246]
Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name
"Mexoryl SW" by Chimex,
[0247] Phenylbenzimidazole Derivatives: [0248]
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold in particular under the trade
name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, [0249] Benzimidazilate sold under the
trade name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer,
[0250] Triazine Derivatives: [0251] Anisotriazine sold under the
trade name "Tinosorb S" by Ciba-Geigy, [0252] Ethylhexyltriazone
sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul T150" by BASF,
[0253] Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone sold under the trade name
"Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V,
[0254] Phenylbenzotriazole Derivatives: [0255] Drometrizole
trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie,
[0256] Anthranilic Derivatives: [0257] Menthyl anthranilate sold
under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer,
[0258] Imidazoline Derivatives: [0259]
Ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazoline propionate,
[0260] Benzylmalonate Derivatives: [0261] Polyorganosiloxane
containing benzalmalonate functions, sold under the trade name
"Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann La Roche, [0262] and the mixtures
thereof.
[0263] The organic UV screening agents that are more particularly
preferred are chosen from the following compounds: [0264]
Ethylhexyl salicylate, [0265] Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, [0266]
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, [0267] Octocrylene, [0268]
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, [0269]
Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid, [0270] Benzophenone-3,
[0271] Benzophenone-4, [0272] Benzophenone-5, [0273]
4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor, [0274] Benzimidazilate, [0275]
Anisotriazine, [0276] Ethylhexyltriazone, [0277]
Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, [0278]
Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol [0279]
Drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0280] Examples of physical sunblock screening agents that may be
mentioned include titanium oxide or zinc oxide, in the form of
optionally coated microparticles or nanoparticles (nanopigments),
and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, for example, of the
hydrophilic nanotitanium sold under the name Mirasun TIW60 by the
company Rhodia, and the lipophilic nanotitanium sold under the name
MT100T by the company Tayca.
Pigments
[0281] Pigments are especially used in makeup compositions.
Pigments that may be mentioned include mineral pigments and
especially metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, zirconium dioxide
or cerium dioxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium
oxide, ferric blue, nacres such as mica coated with titanium oxide,
with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride,
and also coloured titanium mica; and organic pigments such as
carbon black and lakes, which are calcium, barium, aluminium or
zirconium salts of acidic dyes such as halo acid dyes, azo dyes or
anthraquinone dyes.
[0282] These pigments may be treated so as to make their surface
hydrophobic; this treatment may be carried out according to methods
known to those skilled in the art; the pigments may especially be
coated with silicone compounds such as PDMSs and/or with
polymers.
Fillers
[0283] Examples of fillers that may be mentioned, besides pigments,
include silica powder; talc; polyamide particles and especially
those sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem;
polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers,
such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl
methacrylate copolymer, sold by the company Dow Corning under the
name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and
especially the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the
company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the
company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as
optionally crosslinked corn starch, wheat starch or rice starch,
such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride,
sold under the name Dry-Flo by the company National Starch;
silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name
Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and mixtures thereof.
[0284] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care
to select the optional adjuvants added to the composition according
to the invention such that the advantageous properties
intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with
the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected
by the envisaged addition.
[0285] The compositions according to the invention may be in the
form of gels, lotions, milks, more or less unctuous creams, or
pastes. These compositions are prepared according to the usual
methods. Since the block polymer used is water-soluble, it is
generally introduced in an aqueous phase.
[0286] The compositions of the invention may be used as care,
treatment, protective, cleansing, makeup-removing and/or makeup
products for keratin materials (skin, hair, scalp, eyelashes,
eyebrows, nails or mucous membranes) such as protective, treatment
or care creams for the face, for the hands or for the body,
protective or care body milks, and gels or mousses to care for the
skin and/or mucous membranes (lips).
[0287] The compositions of the invention can contain sunscreens and
can thus also be used as antisun products.
[0288] The compositions may be used for makeup, especially for
making up the skin, the eyebrows, the eyelashes and the lips, such
as face creams, foundations, mascaras or lipsticks. Such products
generally contain pigments.
[0289] The compositions according to the invention may also be used
as rinse-out products or as leave-in products for cleansing facial
skin and/or body skin and/or for cleansing the hair, for example as
haircare products, including haircare and hair conditioning
products.
[0290] A subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a cosmetic
composition as defined above, as a rinse-out or leave-in hair
product.
[0291] A subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a cosmetic
composition as defined above, as a product for cleansing and/or
removing makeup from the skin and/or the eyes.
[0292] A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of a
cosmetic composition as defined above, as a care product for the
skin, the hair, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails
or mucous membranes.
[0293] A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of a
cosmetic composition as defined above, as a makeup product.
[0294] A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of a
cosmetic composition as defined above, as an antisun product (for
protection against sunlight and/or the UV radiation of tanning
machines).
[0295] Another subject of the invention is a (non-therapeutic)
cosmetic process for treating a keratin material such as the skin,
the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails or the
mucous membranes, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as
defined above is applied to the keratin material.
EXAMPLES
[0296] The gelling power of the polymers was demonstrated by
rheology using a rheometer of RS150 type (Haake) operating under
controlled stress, and equipped with a 35 mm/2.degree. cone/plate
geometry. A Peltier-effect temperature control system makes it
possible to maintain the sample at a temperature of 20.degree. C.
during the measurements. The rheological characterizations were
performed in flow and dynamic modes.
Flow Measurements:
[0297] The measurements are carried out by imposing an ascending
stress ramp and a descending stress ramp at equilibrium from 0 Pa
up to a stress corresponding to a shear rate of 500 s.sup.-1. These
measurements make it possible to evaluate the viscosity of the
studied systems for shear rates equal to 0.001 s.sup.-1, 0.01
s.sup.-1 and
Dynamic Measurements:
[0298] The limits of the linear viscoelastic domains were
determined at 10.sup.-2 and 1 Hz by subjecting the sample to a
series of sinusoidal stresses of fixed frequency and of
logarithmically distributed increasing amplitudes between two
limits at a rate of 5 points per decade. The linear viscoelastic
behaviour is then characterized by subjecting the sample to a
series of 20 sinusoidal stresses of logarithmically distributed
frequencies between 10 and 10.sup.-2 Hz and of amplitudes such that
the deformation amplitude is constant and located in the linear
domain previously determined. These measurements make it possible
to evaluate the complex modulus G* at 1 Hz and the loss angle
.delta. at 1 Hz, in the linear viscoelastic domain. G* and .delta.
are the viscoelastic parameters used to measure the physical
properties of viscoelastic fluids, as explained in "An introduction
to rheology" by H. A. Barnes, J. F. Hutton and K. Walters, pages 46
to 54 (published by Elsevier 1989). The modulus G* is equal to the
square root of the sum of the squares of the elastic modulus G'
(storage modulus) and the loss modulus G'' (loss modulus). The
tangent of the loss angle .delta. is equal to the ratio G''/G'.
[0299] In the following examples, the triblock polymer used was
prepared by anionic polymerization.
Example 1
[0300] Aqueous solution containing 0.6% (by weight) of a
polystyrene (2500 g/mol)-sodium polyacrylate (29 800
g/mol)-polystyrene (2500 g/mol) triblock polymer. In this block
polymer, the amount of polymer block A represents 85.63% of the
total weight of the triblock polymer.
[0301] This solution is prepared by simple dissolution of the
adequate amount of polymer in the form of powder in demineralized
water, with stirring at 25.degree. C. The preparation of this
solution does not require a specific dispersion process. This
solution is transparent and gelled.
Flow Rheological Measurements:
Viscosity (0.001 s.sup.-1)=2000 Pas
Viscosity (100 s.sup.-1)=0.3 Pas
Dynamic Rheological Measurements:
G* (1 Hz)=45 Pa
.delta. (1 Hz)=8.degree.
[0302] The polystyrene (2500 g/mol)-sodium polyacrylate (29 800
g/mol)-polystyrene (2500 g/mol) triblock polymer has water-gelling
power at a low mass concentration (0.6%). This solution has a
pronounced shear-thinning nature and a pronounced elastic
behaviour. The gelling power of this polymer is reproducible
between different batches.
Example 2
[0303] Aqueous solution containing 3% (by weight) of a polystyrene
(2500 g/mol)-sodium polyacrylate (29 800 g/mol)-polystyrene (2500
g/mol) triblock polymer. In this block polymer, the amount of
polymer block A represents 85.63% of the total weight of the
triblock polymer.
[0304] This solution is prepared by simple dissolution of the
adequate amount of polymer in powder form into demineralized water,
with stirring at 25.degree. C. The preparation of this solution
does not require a specific dispersion process. This solution is
transparent and gelled.
Flow Rheological Measurements:
Viscosity (0.001 s.sup.-1)=20 000 Pas
Viscosity (100 s.sup.-1)=8 Pas
Dynamic Rheological Measurements:
G* (1 Hz)=1200 Pa
.delta. (1 Hz)=40
[0305] The polystyrene (2500 g/mol)-sodium polyacrylate (29 800
g/mol)-polystyrene (2500 g/mol) triblock polymer has a mass
concentration equal to 3% and greater gelling power than at a
concentration of 0.6%. Its elastic behaviour is also more
pronounced. The gelling power of this polymer is reproducible
between different batches.
Example 3
[0306] Aqueous solution comprising 2% (by weight) of a Polystyrene
(2500 g/mole)-Sodium Polyacrylate (29800 g/mole)-Polystyrene (2500
g/mole) triblock polymer. In this block polymer, the amount of
polymer block A represents (water soluble block sodium
polyacrylate) represents 85.63% of the total weight of the triblock
polymer.
[0307] This solution is prepared by simple dissolution of the
adequate amount of polymer in powder form into demineralized water,
with stirring at 25.degree. C. during 7 hours. A clear gel is
obtained.
Rheological Measurement in Dynamic Mode
[0308] These measurements have been performed using a Rheometrics
RFS III rheometer equiped with a cone plate geometry 25 mm/0.04
rad, in the following conditions
[0309] Strain=0.15% in order to verify the linear viscoelastic
conditions,
[0310] Frequency ranging from 0.01 rad/s to 100 rad/s,
Values of the storage and loss moduli measured at a frequency of 1
rad/s are the following:
G' (1 rad/s)=350 Pa
G'' (1 rad/s) 50 Pa
These results show that this triblock polymer presents good gelling
properties for a 2% (by weight) polymer concentration.
Example 4
[0311] An aqueous solution of a mixture of triblock and diblock
polymers is prepared. This aqueous solution contains 0.6% by weight
of a polystyrene (2500 g/mol)-sodium polyacrylate (29 800
g/mol)-polystyrene (2500 g/mol) triblock polymer and 0.6% by weight
of a polystyrene (3600 g/mol)-polyethylene oxide (7000 g/mol)
diblock polymer.
[0312] This solution is prepared by dissolving the adequate amount
of polymers in powder form into demineralized water, with stirring
at 25.degree. C. The solution obtained is transparent and
gelled.
Flow Rheological Measurements:
Viscosity (0.01 s.sup.-1)=3000 Pas
Viscosity (100 s.sup.-1)=1 Pas
Dynamic Rheological Measurements:
G* (1 Hz)=220 Pa
.delta. (1 Hz)=7.degree.
Comparative Test
[0313] The gelling power obtained with the mixture of triblock and
diblock polymers of Example 3 is compared with that obtained with
the triblock polymer (Example 1) and that obtained with the diblock
polymer alone. To evaluate the gelling power of the diblock
polymer, an aqueous solution containing 0.6% by weight of the
polystyrene (3600 g/mol)-polyethylene oxide (7000 g/mol) diblock
polymer is prepared.
[0314] The solution is prepared by dissolving the adequate amount
of polymer in powder form into demineralized water, with stirring
at 25.degree. C. The solution obtained is transparent and
fluid.
Flow Rheological Measurements:
Viscosity (0.01 s.sup.-1)=0.012 Pas
Viscosity (100 s.sup.-1)=0.009 Pas
[0315] The polystyrene (3600 g/mol)-polyethylene oxide (7000 g/mol)
diblock polymer is soluble in water at a concentration of 0.6% by
weight, but it has no water-gelling power under these concentration
conditions.
[0316] On the other hand, as shown by the rheological measurements
of Example 3, the combination of the polystyrene (2500
g/mol)-sodium polyacrylate (29 800 g/mol)-polystyrene (2500 g/mol)
triblock polymer and of the polystyrene (3600 g/mol)-polyethylene
oxide (7000 g/mol) diblock polymer makes it possible to obtain a
gelled aqueous solution with low mass concentrations (0.6% of each
polymer).
[0317] Synergism is observed since the gelling properties observed
for the combination are very much greater than those of solutions
containing 0.6% of each of the diblock and triblock polymers
considered separately (see Example 1 and above result). These
results demonstrate a synergistic gelling effect for the mixture of
the ionic triblock polymer B-A-B and the neutral diblock polymer
A'-B.
Example 5
Effect of Surfactants on the Gelling Power
[0318] This example demonstrates the maintenance of the gelling
power of the polymers used according to the invention, in the
presence of surfactants.
[0319] An aqueous solution containing 1.2% (by weight) of a
polystyrene (2500 g/mol)-sodium polyacrylate (29 800
g/mol)-polystyrene (2500 g/mol) triblock polymer is prepared by
simple dissolution of the adequate amount of polymer in powder form
into demineralized water, with stirring at 25.degree. C. This
solution is transparent and gelled.
Without surfactant:
Flow Rheological Measurements:
Viscosity (0.01 s.sup.-1) 500 Pas
Viscosity (100 s.sup.-1)=1 Pas
With 0.24% nonionic surfactant (PEG-100 stearate):
Viscosity (0.01 s.sup.-1)=500 Pas
Viscosity (100 s.sup.-1)=1 Pas
With 1.2% nonionic surfactant (PEG-100 stearate):
Viscosity (0.01 s.sup.-1)=40 Pas
Viscosity (100 s.sup.-1)=0.4 Pas
[0320] Even though the gelling power has decreased slightly with
this level of surfactant, it still exists.
COMPOSITION EXAMPLES
[0321] The examples below of emulsions according to the invention
are given by way of illustration and with no limiting nature. The
amounts therein are given as weight percentages, except where
otherwise mentioned.
Example 6
Anti-Ageing Serum
[0322] TABLE-US-00001 Polystyrene (2500 g/mol) - sodium
polyacrylate 0.6% (29 800 g/mol) - polystyrene (2500 g/mol)
triblock polymer Preserving agent 0.2% Ascorbic acid 10%
Dipropylene glycol 5% Demineralized water 84.2%
[0323] The serum is prepared by dissolving the triblock polymer in
demineralized water containing the preserving agent, the ascorbic
acid and the dipropylene glycol, with stirring for 2 hours.
[0324] The polystyrene (2500 g/mol)-sodium polyacrylate (29 800
g/mol)-polystyrene (2500 g/mol) triblock polymer by itself allows
the aqueous phase to be thickened. The formulation obtained is an
anti-ageing serum with an appealing texture.
Example 7
Body Milk (O/W Emulsion Without Emulsifying Surfactant)
[0325] TABLE-US-00002 Aqueous phase: Polystyrene (2500 g/mol) -
sodium polyacrylate 0.52% (29 800 g/mol) - polystyrene (2500 g/mol)
triblock polymer Preserving agent 0.2% Demineralized water 84.28%
Oily phase Parleam oil 9% Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 6%
[0326] Procedure: The aqueous phase is prepared by dissolving the
polymer in demineralized water containing the preserving agent,
with stirring for 2 hours. The oily phase is then introduced slowly
into the aqueous phase with stirring.
[0327] The polystyrene (2500 g/mol)-sodium polyacrylate (29 800
g/mol)-polystyrene (2500 g/mol) triblock polymer by itself allows
the aqueous phase to be gelled and allows all of the oily phase to
be emulsified. An attractive gelled emulsion that may be used as a
body milk is obtained.
Example 8
Moisturizing Cream (O/W Emulsion Without Emulsifying
Surfactant)
[0328] TABLE-US-00003 Aqueous phase: Polystyrene (2500 g/mol) -
sodium polyacrylate 2.6% (29 800 g/mol) - polystyrene (2500 g/mol)
triblock polymer Preserving agent 0.2% Demineralized water 82.2%
Oily phase: Parleam oil 9% Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 6%
[0329] Procedure: The aqueous phase is prepared by dissolving the
polymer in demineralized water containing the preserving agent,
with stirring for 2 hours. The oily phase is then introduced slowly
into the aqueous phase with stirring.
[0330] The polystyrene (2500 g/mol)-sodium polyacrylate (29 800
g/mol)-polystyrene (2500 g/mol) triblock polymer by itself allows
the aqueous phase to be gelled and allows all of the oily phase to
be emulsified. An attractive gelled emulsion that may be used as a
moisturizing cream is obtained.
* * * * *