U.S. patent application number 10/529267 was filed with the patent office on 2006-05-11 for composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising a high dry extract that contains a sequenched polymer.
Invention is credited to Valerie De La Poterie, Bertrand Lion.
Application Number | 20060099164 10/529267 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 32045662 |
Filed Date | 2006-05-11 |
United States Patent
Application |
20060099164 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
De La Poterie; Valerie ; et
al. |
May 11, 2006 |
Composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising a high dry
extract that contains a sequenched polymer
Abstract
Composition for coating keratin fibres with a high dry extract
comprising a block polymer A subject of the invention is a
composition for coating keratin fibres comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium, a block polymer, a styrene-free
block polymer, the said composition having a dry matter or dry
extract content of greater than or equal to 45% by weight. A
subject of the invention is also the use of such a composition for
obtaining a makeup for the keratin fibres, in particular the
eyelashes, which is charging and/or homogeneous and/or smooth
and/or has good staying power.
Inventors: |
De La Poterie; Valerie;
(Lailly-en-Val, FR) ; Lion; Bertrand; (Luzarches,
FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
FINNEGAN, HENDERSON, FARABOW, GARRETT & DUNNER;LLP
901 NEW YORK AVENUE, NW
WASHINGTON
DC
20001-4413
US
|
Family ID: |
32045662 |
Appl. No.: |
10/529267 |
Filed: |
September 26, 2003 |
PCT Filed: |
September 26, 2003 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/FR03/02841 |
371 Date: |
September 29, 2005 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/891 20130101;
C08F 265/04 20130101; A61Q 3/02 20130101; C08L 53/00 20130101; Y10S
514/845 20130101; A61K 8/927 20130101; A61Q 1/04 20130101; A61Q
1/06 20130101; C08F 265/06 20130101; C08L 51/003 20130101; C08L
51/003 20130101; C08F 293/005 20130101; A61K 8/26 20130101; A61K
8/8182 20130101; A61K 8/8152 20130101; C08F 291/00 20130101; Y10S
514/844 20130101; A61K 8/8111 20130101; A61K 8/90 20130101; A61K
8/922 20130101; A61K 2800/594 20130101; A61Q 1/10 20130101; C08L
53/00 20130101; Y10S 514/937 20130101; C08L 2666/02 20130101; C08L
2666/02 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/070.1 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/00 20060101
A61K008/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Sep 26, 2002 |
FR |
02/11949 |
Dec 20, 2002 |
FR |
02/16437 |
May 21, 2003 |
FR |
03/06121 |
Claims
1. Composition for coating keratin fibres comprising a cosmetically
acceptable organic liquid medium, and a film-forming linear
ethylenic block polymer, the said composition having a dry matter
or dry extract content of greater than or equal to 45% by
weight.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the said
block polymer is free of styrene.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the
said block polymer is non-elastomeric.
4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the block polymer comprises at least one
first block and at least one second block having different glass
transition temperatures (Tg), the said first and second blocks
being linked together via an intermediate block comprising at least
one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one
constituent monomer of the second block.
5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that the first block and the second block of the block polymer are
mutually incompatible.
6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that the first block of the block polymer is chosen from: a) a
block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C., b) a
block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20.degree. C., c) a block
with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree. C., and the second block is
chosen from a category a), b) or c) different from the first
block.
7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the
block of the block polymer with a Tg of greater than or equal to
40.degree. C. is totally or partially derived from one or more
monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these
monomers has a glass transition temperature of greater than or
equal to 40.degree. C.
8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that the monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass
transition temperature of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C.
are chosen from the following monomers: methacrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.1 in which R.sub.1 represents a
linear or branched unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4
carbon atoms, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group or
R.sub.1 represents a C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 cycloalkyl group,
acrylates of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CH--COOR.sub.2 in which R.sub.2
represents a C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 cycloalkyl group such as isobornyl
acrylate or a tert-butyl group, (meth)acrylamides of formula:
##STR2## in which R.sub.7 and R.sub.8, which may be identical or
different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched
alkyl group of 1 to 12 carbon atoms such as an n-butyl, t-butyl,
isopropyl, isohexyl, isooctyl or isononyl group; or R7 represents H
and R.sub.8 represents a 1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl group, and R'
denotes H or methyl, and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the
monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass transition
temperature of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C. are chosen
from methyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate and
isobornyl(meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the
block of the block polymer with a Tg of less than or equal to
20.degree. C. is totally or partially derived from one or more
monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these
monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal
to 20.degree. C.
11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that the monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass
transition temperature of less than or equal to 20.degree. C. are
chosen from the following monomers: acrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOOR.sub.3, R.sub.3 representing a linear or
branched C.sub.1 to C.sub.12 unsubstituted alkyl group, with the
exception of the tert-butyl group, in which one or more hetero
atoms chosen from O, N and S is (are) optionally intercalated,
methacrylates of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.4,
R.sub.4 representing a linear or branched C.sub.6 to C.sub.12
unsubstituted alkyl group, in which one or more hetero atoms chosen
from O, N and S is (are) optionally intercalated, vinyl esters of
formula R.sub.5--CO--O--CH.dbd.CH.sub.2 in which R.sub.5 represents
a linear or branched C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 alkyl group, vinyl alcohol
and C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 alcohol ethers, N--(C.sub.4 to
C.sub.12)alkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide, and mixtures
thereof.
12. Composition according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that
the monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass transition
temperature of less than or equal to 20.degree. C. are chosen from
alkyl acrylates whose alkyl chain contains from 1 to 10 carbon
atoms, with the exception of the tert-butyl group.
13. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the
block of the block polymer with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree.
C. is totally or partially derived from one or more monomers which
are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a
glass transition temperature of between 20 and 40.degree. C.
14. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the
block with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree. C. is totally or
partially derived from monomers which are such that the
corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of greater than or equal to
40.degree. C. and from monomers which are such that the
corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to
20.degree. C.
15. Composition according to claim 13 or 14, characterized in that
the block with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree. C. is totally or
partially derived from monomers chosen from methyl methacrylate,
isobornyl acrylate and methacrylate, trifluoroethyl methacrylate,
butyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
16. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in
that the block polymer comprises at least one first block and at
least one second block, the first block having a glass transition
temperature (Tg) of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C. and the
second block having a glass transition temperature of less than or
equal to 20.degree. C., the said first and second blocks being
linked together via an intermediate block comprising at least one
constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent
monomer of the second block.
17. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that the first block of the block polymer is totally or partially
derived from one or more monomers which are such that the
homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition
temperature of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C.
18. Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the
first block of the block polymer is a copolymer derived from
monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these
monomers has a glass transition temperature of greater than or
equal to 40.degree. C.
19. Composition according to claim 17 or 18, characterized in that
the monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass transition
temperature of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C. are chosen
from the following monomers: methacrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.1 in which R.sub.1 represents a
linear or branched unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4
carbon atoms, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group or
R.sub.1 represents a C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 cycloalkyl group,
acrylates of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CH--COOR.sub.2 in which R.sub.2
represents a C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 cycloalkyl group such as isobornyl
acrylate or a tert-butyl group, (meth)acrylamides of formula:
##STR3## in which R.sub.7 and R.sub.8, which may be identical or
different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched
alkyl group of 1 to 12 carbon atoms such as an n-butyl, t-butyl,
isopropyl, isohexyl, isooctyl or isononyl group; or R.sub.7
represents H and R.sub.8 represents a 1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl
group, and R' denotes H or methyl, and mixtures thereof.
20. Composition according to one of claims 17 to 19, characterized
in that the monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass
transition temperature of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C.
are chosen from methyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate and
isobornyl(meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
21. Composition according to one of claims 16 to 20, characterized
in that the proportion of the first block having a Tg of greater
than or equal to 40.degree. C. of the block polymer ranges from 20%
to 90%, better still from 30% to 80% and even better still from 50%
to 70% by weight of the polymer.
22. Composition according to one of claims 16 to 21, characterized
in that the second block of the block polymer is totally or
partially derived from one or more monomers which are such that the
homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition
temperature of less than or equal to 20.degree. C.
23. Composition according to one of claims 16 to 22, characterized
in that the second block of the block polymer is a homopolymer
derived from monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared
from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than
or equal to 20.degree. C.
24. Composition according to claim 22 or 23, characterized in that
the monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass transition
temperature of less than or equal to 20.degree. C. are chosen from
the following monomers: acrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOOR.sub.3, R.sub.3 representing a linear or
branched C.sub.1 to C.sub.12 unsubstituted alkyl group, with the
exception of the tert-butyl group, in which one or more hetero
atoms chosen from O, N and S is (are) optionally intercalated,
methacrylates of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.4,
R.sub.4 representing a linear or branched C.sub.6 to C.sub.12
unsubstituted alkyl group, in which one or more hetero atoms chosen
from O, N and S is (are) optionally intercalated, vinyl esters of
formula R.sub.5--CO--O--CH.dbd.CH.sub.2 in which R.sub.5 represents
a linear or branched C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 alkyl group, vinyl alcohol
and C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 alcohol ethers, N--(C.sub.4 to
C.sub.12)alkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide, and mixtures
thereof.
25. Composition according to one of claims 22 to 24, characterized
in that the monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass
transition temperature of less than or equal to 20.degree. C. are
chosen from alkyl acrylates whose alkyl chain contains from 1 to 10
carbon atoms, with the exception of the butyl group.
26. Composition according to one of claims 16 to 25, characterized
in that the proportion of the second block with a Tg of less than
or equal to 20.degree. C. of the block polymer ranges from 5% to
75%, better still from 15% to 50% and even better still from 25% to
45% by weight of the polymer.
27. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in
that the block polymer comprises at least one first block and at
least one second block, the first block having a glass transition
temperature (Tg) of between 20 and 40.degree. C. and the second
block having a glass transition temperature of less than or equal
to 20.degree. C. or a glass transition temperature of greater than
or equal to 40.degree. C., the said first and second blocks being
linked together via an intermediate block comprising at least one
constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent
monomer of the second block.
28. Polymer according to the preceding claim, characterized in that
the first block with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree. C. of the
block polymer is totally or partially derived from one or more
monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these
monomers has a glass transition temperature of between 20 and
40.degree. C.
29. Composition according to claim 27 or 28, characterized in that
the first block with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree. C. of the
block polymer is a copolymer derived from monomers which are such
that the corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of greater than or
equal to 40.degree. C. and from monomers which are such that the
corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to
20.degree. C.
30. Composition according to one of claims 27 to 29, characterized
in that the first block with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree. C.
of the block polymer is derived from monomers chosen from methyl
methacrylate, isobornyl acrylate and methacrylate, butyl acrylate
and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
31. Composition according to one of claims 27 to 30, characterized
in that the proportion of the first block with a Tg of between 20
and 40.degree. C. ranges from 10% to 85%, better still from 30% to
80% and even better still from 50% to 70% by weight of the
polymer.
32. Composition according to any one of claims 27 to 31,
characterized in that the second block of the block polymer has a
Tg of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C. and is totally or
partially derived from one or more monomers which are such that the
homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition
temperature of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C.
33. Composition according to any one of claims 27 to 32,
characterized in that the second block of the block polymer has a
Tg of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C. and is a homopolymer
derived from monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared
from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of greater
than or equal to 40.degree. C.
34. Composition according to claim 32 or 33, characterized in that
the monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass transition
temperature of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C. are chosen
from the following monomers: methacrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.1 in which R.sub.1 represents a
linear or branched unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4
carbon atoms, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group or
R.sub.1 represents a C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 cycloalkyl group,
acrylates of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CH--COOR.sub.2 in which R.sub.2
represents a C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 cycloalkyl group such as isobornyl
acrylate or a tert-butyl group, (meth)acrylamides of formula:
##STR4## in which R.sub.7 and R.sub.8, which may be identical or
different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched
alkyl group of 1 to 12 carbon atoms such as an n-butyl, t-butyl,
isopropyl, isohexyl, isooctyl or isononyl group; or R.sub.7
represents H and R.sub.8 represents a 1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl
group, and R' denotes H or methyl and mixtures thereof.
35. Composition according to one of claims 32 to 34, characterized
in that the monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass
transition temperature of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C.
are chosen from methyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate and
isobornyl(meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
36. Composition according to one of claims 32 to 35, characterized
in that the proportion of the second block with a Tg of greater
than or equal to 40.degree. C. ranges from 10% to 85%, preferably
from 20% to 70% and better still from 30% to 70% by weight of the
polymer.
37. Composition according to one of claims 27 to 31, characterized
in that the second block of the block polymer has a Tg of less than
or equal to 20.degree. C. and is totally or partially derived from
one or more monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared
from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than
or equal to 20.degree. C.
38. Composition according to one of claims 27 to 31, characterized
in that the second block of the block polymer has a Tg of less than
or equal to 20.degree. C. and is a homopolymer derived from
monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these
monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal
to 20.degree. C.
39. Composition according to claim 37 or 38, characterized in that
the monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a glass transition
temperature of less than or equal to 20.degree. C. are chosen from
the following monomers: acrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOOR.sub.3, R.sub.3 representing a linear or
branched C.sub.1 to C.sub.12 unsubstituted alkyl group, with the
exception of the tert-butyl group, in which one or more hetero
atoms chosen from O, N and S is (are) optionally intercalated,
methacrylates of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.4,
R.sub.4 representing a linear or branched C.sub.6 to C.sub.12
unsubstituted alkyl group, in which one or more hetero atoms chosen
from O, N and S is (are) optionally intercalated, vinyl esters of
formula R.sub.5--CO--O--CH.dbd.CH.sub.2 in which R.sub.5 represents
a linear or branched C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 alkyl group, vinyl alcohol
and C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 alcohol ethers; N--(C.sub.4 to
C.sub.12)alkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide, and mixtures
thereof.
40. Composition according to one of claims 37 to 39, characterized
in that the monomers whose homopolymers have glass transition
temperatures of less than or equal to 20.degree. C. are chosen from
alkyl acrylates whose alkyl chain contains from 1 to 10 carbon
atoms, with the exception of the tert-butyl group.
41. Composition according to one of claims 37 to 40, characterized
in that the proportion of the block with a glass transition
temperature of less than or equal to 20.degree. C. of the block
polymer ranges from 20% to 90%, better still from 30% to 80% and
even better still from 50% to 70% by weight of the polymer.
42. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the first block and/or the second block of
the block polymer comprises at least one additional monomer.
43. Composition according to claim 42, characterized in that the
additional monomer is chosen from hydrophilic monomers and
ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising one or more silicon
atoms, and mixtures thereof.
44. Composition according to claim 42 or 43, characterized in that
the additional monomer is chosen from: ethylenically unsaturated
monomers comprising at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid
function, methacrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.6 in which R.sub.6 represents a
linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group, the said alkyl
group being substituted with one or more substituents chosen from
hydroxyl groups (for instance 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate and
2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I or F),
such as trifluoroethyl methacrylate, methacrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.9, R.sub.9 representing a linear
or branched C.sub.6 to C.sub.12 alkyl group in which one or more
hetero atoms chosen from O, N and S is (are) optionally
intercalated, the said alkyl group being substituted with one or
more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms
(Cl, Br, I or F); acrylates of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOOR.sub.10,
R.sub.10 representing a linear or branched C.sub.1 to C.sub.12
alkyl group substituted with one or more substituents chosen from
hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I or F), such as
2-hydroxypropyl acrylate and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, or R.sub.8
represents a C.sub.1 to C.sub.12 alkyl-O-POE (polyoxyethylene) with
repetition of the oxyethylene unit 5 to 30 times, for example
methoxy-POE, or R.sub.10 represents a polyoxyethylenated group
comprising from 5 to 30 ethylene oxide units, ethylenically
unsaturated monomers comprising at least one tertiary amine
functional group, and mixtures thereof.
45. Composition according to one of claims 42 to 44, characterized
in that the additional monomer(s) is(are) chosen from acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid, trifluoroethyl methacrylate and mixtures
thereof.
46. Composition according to one of claims 42 to 45, characterized
in that the additional monomer(s) represent(s) from 1 to 30% by
weight of the total weight of the first and/or second blocks of the
block polymer.
47. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that each of the first and second block of the
block polymer comprises at least one monomer chosen from
(meth)acrylic acid esters and optionally at least one monomer
chosen from (meth)acrylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
48. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that each of the first and second block of the
block polymer is totally derived from at least one monomer chosen
from acrylic acid, (meth)acrylic acid esters and optionally from at
least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid, and mixtures
thereof.
49. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the difference between the glass transition
temperatures (Tg) of the first and second blocks of the block
polymer is greater than 10.degree. C., better still greater than
20.degree. C., preferably greater than 30.degree. C. and better
still greater than 40.degree. C.
50. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the intermediate block of the block polymer
has a glass transition temperature between the glass transition
temperatures of the first and second blocks.
51. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the block polymer has a polydispersity index
I of greater than 2, better still of greater than or equal to 2.5,
preferably of greater than or equal to 2.8.
52. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the block polymer has a polydispersity index
of between 2.8 and 6.
53. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the block polymer has a weight-average mass
(Mw) of less than or equal to 300 000.
54. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the block polymer has a weight-average mass
(Mw) ranging from 35 000 to 200 000, and better still from 45 000
to 150 000.
55. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the block polymer has a number-average mass
(Mn) of less than or equal to 70 000.
56. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the block polymer has a number-average mass
(Mn) ranging from 10 000 to 60 000, and better still from 12 000 to
50 000.
57. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the block polymer is not soluble at an active
material content of at least 1% by weight in water or in a mixture
of water and linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to
5 carbon atoms, without modification of pH, at room temperature
(25.degree. C.).
58. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the block polymer is present at a dry matter
(or active material) content ranging from 5 to 55% by weight,
preferably ranging from 6 to 45% by weight and better still ranging
from 8 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
59. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises a volatile oil.
60. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that the volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils,
silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.
61. Composition according to claim 59 or 60, characterized in that
the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 95%
by weight, preferably from 1 to 65% by weight and better still from
5 to 40% by weight.
62. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises a non-volatile oil.
63. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1%
to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and better
still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
64. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the organic liquid medium represents from 10
to 95% by weight, preferably from 20 to 90% by weight, and better
still from 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
65. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises an aqueous phase consisting of
water or a mixture of water and a water-miscible organic
solvent.
66. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that the aqueous phase is present in a content ranging from 1% to
95% by weight, preferably ranging from 3% to 80% by weight, and
preferably ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
67. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises a wax.
68. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that the total wax content of the composition ranges from 1 to 50%
by weight, in particular from 5 to 30% by weight, and more
particularly from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition.
69. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 66, characterized
in that it is wax-free.
70. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises an additional film-forming
polymer.
71. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises an additional film-forming
polymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles of
film-forming polymer.
72. Composition according to claim 70 or 71, characterized in that
the film-forming polymer is present in a dry matter content ranging
from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 40% by
weight and preferentially ranging from 1% to 30% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
73. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises a surfactant.
74. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises an additive chosen from
dyestuffs, antioxidants, fillers, pasty fatty substances,
preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, thickeners, vitamins,
coalescers and plasticizers, and mixtures thereof.
75. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 74, characterized
in that it is a mascara.
76. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it has a dry matter content of greater than
or equal to 40%, better still of greater than 45%, preferably of
greater than 46%, better still of greater than or equal to 47%,
even better still of greater than 48%, even more preferably of
greater than or equal to 50%, which may be up to 70%.
77. Cosmetic process for making up or for the non-therapeutic care
of keratin fibres, comprising the application to the keratin fibres
of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 76.
78. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, for obtaining makeup for the keratin fibres, in particular
of the eyelashes, which is charging and/or has good staying
power.
79. Use of a block polymer which is free of styrene in a
composition for coating keratin fibres, to obtain a composition
that is easy to apply to the keratin fibres and/or leading to a
makeup which is charging, and/or has good staying power on the said
keratin fibres.
80. Cosmetic assembly comprising: i) a container delimiting at
least one compartment, the said container being closed by a closing
member; and ii) a composition for coating keratin fibres placed
inside the said compartment, the composition being in accordance
with any one of claims 1 to 75.
81. Cosmetic assembly according to claim 80, characterized in that
the container consists, at least in part, of at least one
thermoplastic material.
82. Cosmetic assembly according to claim 80, characterized in that
the container consists, at least in part, of at least one
nonthermoplastic material, especially glass or metal.
83. Assembly according to any one of claims 80 to 82, characterized
in that in the closed position of the container, the closing member
is screwed onto the container.
84. Assembly according to any one of claims 80 to 82, characterized
in that in the closed position of the container, the closing member
is coupled to the container other than by screwing, especially by
click-fastening.
85. Assembly according to any one of claims 80 to 84, characterized
in that it comprises an applicator in the form of a twisted brush
comprising a plurality of bristles trapped in a twisted core.
86. Assembly according to any one of claims 80 to 84, characterized
in that the applicator is different from a twisted brush.
Description
[0001] The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic
composition for coating keratin fibres comprising a block
polymer.
[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making
up or treating keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows
and the hair.
[0003] The composition according to the invention may be a makeup
composition, also called mascara, a makeup base for keratin fibres
or base coat, a composition to be applied over makeup, also known
as top coat, or a composition for treating keratin fibres. More
especially, the composition according to the invention is a
mascara.
[0004] The term "mascara" is understood as meaning a composition
intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be a makeup
composition for the eyelashes, a makeup base for the eyelashes, a
composition to be applied over a mascara, also known as top coat,
or a cosmetic treatment composition for the eyelashes. The mascara
is more particularly intended for the eyelashes of human beings,
but also for false eyelashes.
[0005] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a
leave-in composition.
[0006] Makeup compositions for the eyes, and in particular for the
eyelashes, such as mascaras, may be provided in various forms: for
example in the form of biphasic oil-in-water or O/W or water-in-oil
W/O emulsions, or of aqueous or anhydrous dispersions.
[0007] It is generally through the qualitative and quantitative
choice of the waxes and polymers that the desired specificities of
application are adjusted for the makeup compositions, such as their
fluidity, their covering power and/or their curling power. Thus, it
is possible to prepare various compositions which, when applied in
particular to the eyelashes, induce varied effects of the
lengthening, curling and/or thickening type (charging or volumizing
effect).
[0008] It is known from the prior art that the higher the content
of solids (provided in part by a fatty phase consisting, for
example, of one or more waxes or of one or more lipophilic
polymers) in a composition, the greater the deposition of material
on the eyelashes and therefore the more the result obtained will be
volumizing.
[0009] However, the increase in the content of solids in a
composition, such as an emulsion or dispersion, causes an increase
in the consistency of the product obtained and therefore a delicate
and difficult application to the eyelashes because the product is
thick and viscous, it forms a deposit with difficulty, in a
heterogeneous manner and in packets. The increase in the content of
solids is therefore often limited by the increase in consistency
and does not exceed 45% of the total weight of the composition.
This limitation on the content of solids is often linked to the
impossibility of increasing, on the one hand, the wax content in
the fatty phase which does not exceed 25% for reasons of
feasibility (the compositions comprising between 20 and 25% by
weight of wax are often very thick, compact, difficult to apply and
have unsatisfactory cosmetic properties) and, on the other hand, of
incorporating fat-soluble polymers in a large amount, which
considerably increases the viscosity of the composition.
[0010] Another means of increasing the content of solids is to
incorporate solid particles such as fillers or pigments, but the
increase in consistency also limits the maximum percentage of
solids. Furthermore, the use of solid particles in a large quantity
does not promote homogeneous and smooth deposition not only because
of the consistency but also because of the size of the particles
introduced, which gives a granular and unsmooth appearance to the
deposit.
[0011] That is generally the case for the so-called volumizing
mascaras which are difficult to apply and which give a
heterogeneous makeup.
[0012] It is therefore difficult to obtain a makeup composition for
the keratin fibres, comprising a high content of solids and
therefore a satisfactory volumizing effect, which has easy and
homogeneous application.
[0013] Moreover, the increase in the content of solids and the
nonhomogeneity of the deposit causes a poorer staying power of the
composition film: the latter is not sufficiently resistant to
rubbing, in particular of the fingers, and/or to water, during
bathings and/or showers for example, or alternatively to tears or
to sweat. The mascara then tends to crumble over time: grains
become deposited and leave marks around the eye.
[0014] The aim of the present invention is therefore to propose
another route for formulating a composition for coating the keratin
fibres leading to a keratin fibre charging effect, and which
completely or partially solves the problems linked to conventional
routes of formulation. In addition, the compositions according to
the invention allow smooth and homogeneous application and lead to
a makeup for keratin fibres exhibiting good staying power.
[0015] The inventors have discovered that a composition of this
type could be obtained using a particular block polymer.
Surprisingly, the incorporation of such a polymer at high or very
high contents (which may be up to 50% by weight) makes it possible
to significantly increase the dry matter content of a composition
for coating keratin fibres, while preserving a consistency which
allows easy application to the keratin fibres, and leads, after
application to keratin fibres, to a makeup film with good staying
power over time: the film does not crumble.
[0016] More precisely, a subject of the invention is a composition
for coating keratin fibres comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable
organic liquid medium, a film-forming linear ethylenic block
polymer, called in the text that follows "block polymer", the said
composition having a dry matter or dry extract content greater than
or equal to 45% by weight.
[0017] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for
making up or for the nontherapeutic care of keratin fibres, in
particular the eyelashes, comprising the application of a
composition as defined above to the keratin fibres.
[0018] A subject of the invention is also the use of a composition
as defined above for obtaining a makeup for the keratin fibres, in
particular the eyelashes, which is charging and/or has good staying
power.
[0019] A subject of the invention is also the use of a film-forming
linear ethylenic block polymer in a composition for coating keratin
fibres, in order to obtain a composition that is easy to apply to
the keratin fibres and/or leading to a makeup which is charging
and/or has good staying power on the said keratin fibres.
[0020] The term "cosmetically acceptable" organic liquid medium
means an organic liquid medium that is compatible with the
eyelashes or the skin.
Protocol for Measuring the Dry Matter or Dry Extract Content
[0021] The dry matter content, that is to say the content of
nonvolatile material, may be measured in different ways; mention
may be made for example of the methods based on drying in an oven,
the methods based on exposure to infrared radiation and the
chemical methods based on titration of water according to Karl
Fischer.
[0022] Preferably, the dry extract of the compositions according to
the invention is measured on a Mettler Toledo HG 53 balance
(Halogen Moisture Analyzer).
[0023] A mascara sample (2-3 g) is deposited in an aluminium dish
and subjected to a temperature of 120.degree. C. for 60 minutes.
The measurement of the dry extract corresponds to the monitoring of
the mass of the sample as a function of time. The final content of
solids is therefore the percentage of the final mass (at the end of
60 min) relative to the initial mass: DE=(final mass/initial
mass).times.100.
[0024] The composition according to the invention has a dry matter
content greater than or equal to 45%, preferably greater than 46%,
even better greater than or equal to 47%, better still greater than
48%, preferably still greater than or equal to 50%, and may be up
to 70%.
1) Block Polymer
[0025] The polymer of the composition according to the invention is
a film-forming linear ethylenic block polymer.
[0026] The term "ethylenic" polymer means a polymer obtained by
polymerizing monomers comprising an ethylenic unsaturation.
[0027] The term "block" polymer means a polymer comprising at least
2 different blocks, preferably at least 3 different blocks.
[0028] The polymer is a polymer with a linear structure. In
contrast, a polymer of non-linear structure is, for example, a
polymer of branched, starburst or grafted structure, or the
like.
[0029] The term "film-forming" polymer means a polymer capable of
forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming
agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support and especially
to keratin materials.
[0030] Advantageously, the block polymer of the composition
according to the invention is free of styrene. The term "polymer
free of styrene" means a polymer containing less that 10% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the polymer, preferably
less than 5% by weight, even better less than 2% by weight, even
better less than 1% by weight, or not even containing none of a
styrene monomer such as styrene, styrene derivatives such as
methylstyrene, chlorostyrene or chloromethylstyrene of styrene or
of styrene derivatives such as for example methylstyrene,
chlorostyrene or chloromethylstyrene.
[0031] According to one embodiment, the block polymer of the
inventive composition is derived from aliphatic ethylenic monomers.
The term "aliphatic monomer" means a monomer comprising no aromatic
groups.
[0032] According to one embodiment, the block polymer is an
ethylenic polymer derived from aliphatic ethylenic monomers
comprising a carbon-carbon double bond and at least one ester group
--COO-- or amide group --CON--. The ester group may be linked to
one of the two unsaturated carbons via the carbon atom or the
oxygen atom. The amide group may be linked to one of the two
unsaturated carbons via the carbon atom or the nitrogen atom.
[0033] Preferably, the block polymer of the composition according
to the invention comprises at least one first block and at least
one second block having different glass transition temperatures
(Tg), the said first and second blocks being linked together via an
intermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer of
the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second
block.
[0034] The term "at least one" block means one or more blocks.
[0035] It is pointed out that, in the text hereinabove and
hereinbelow, the terms "first" and "second" blocks do not in any
way condition the order of the said blocks in the polymer
structure.
[0036] Advantageously, the first and second blocks of the block
polymer are mutually incompatible.
[0037] The term "mutually incompatible blocks" means that the
mixture formed from the polymer corresponding to the first block
and from the polymer corresponding to the second block is not
miscible in the organic liquid medium that is contained in major
amount by weight in the organic liquid medium of the composition,
at room temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure
(10.sup.5 Pa), for a content of the polymer mixture of greater than
or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
mixture (polymers and solvent), it being understood that: [0038] i)
the said polymers are present in the mixture in a content such that
the respective weight ratio ranges from 10/90 to 90/10, and [0039]
ii) each of the polymers corresponding to the first and second
blocks has an average (weight-average or number-average) molecular
mass equal to that of the block polymer.+-.15%.
[0040] When the organic liquid medium comprises a mixture of
organic liquids, in the case of two or more liquids present in
identical mass proportions, the said polymer mixture is immiscible
in at least one of them.
[0041] Obviously, when the organic liquid medium comprises only one
organic liquid, the latter is the major organic liquid.
[0042] Advantageously, the major organic liquid of the composition
is the organic solvent for polymerizing the block polymer or the
major organic solvent of the mixture of organic solvents for
polymerizing the block polymer. The intermediate block is a block
comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and
at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer
makes it possible to "compatibilize" these blocks.
[0043] Preferably, the block polymer comprises no silicon atoms in
its skeleton. The term "skeleton" means the main chain of the
polymer, as opposed to the pendant side chains.
[0044] Preferably, the block polymer is not water-soluble, i.e. the
polymer is not soluble in water or in a mixture of water and linear
or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms,
for instance ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, without pH
modification, at an active material content of at least 1% by
weight, at room temperature (25.degree. C.).
[0045] Preferably, the polymer according to the invention is not an
elastomer.
[0046] The term "non-elastomeric polymer" means a polymer which,
when it is subjected to a constraint intended to stretch it (for
example by 30% relative to its initial length), does not return to
a length substantially identical to its initial length when the
constraint ceases.
[0047] More specifically, the term "non-elastomeric polymer"
denotes a polymer with an instantaneous recovery R.sub.i<50% and
a delayed recovery R.sub.2h<70% after having been subjected to a
30% elongation. Preferably, R.sub.i is <30% and
R.sub.2h<50%.
[0048] More specifically, the non-elastomeric nature of the polymer
is determined according to the following protocol:
[0049] A polymer film is prepared by pouring a solution of the
polymer into a Teflon-coated mould, followed by drying for 7 days
in an environment conditioned at 23.+-.5.degree. C. and 50.+-.10%
relative humidity.
[0050] A film about 100 .mu.m thick is thus obtained, from which
are cut rectangular specimens (for example using a punch) 15 mm
wide and 80 mm long.
[0051] This sample is subjected to a tensile stress using a machine
sold under the reference Zwick, under the same temperature and
humidity conditions as for the drying.
[0052] The specimens are pulled at a speed of 50 mm/min and the
distance between the jaws is 50 mm, which corresponds to the
initial length (l.sub.0) of the specimen.
[0053] The instantaneous recovery R.sub.i is determined in the
following manner:
[0054] the specimen is pulled by 30% (.epsilon..sub.max), i.e.
about 0.3 times its initial length (l.sub.0)
[0055] the constraint is released by applying a return speed equal
to the tensile speed, i.e. 50 mm/min, and the residual elongation
of the specimen is measured as a percentage, after returning to
zero constraint (.epsilon..sub.i).
[0056] The percentage instantaneous recovery (R.sub.i) is given by
the following formula:
R.sub.i=(.epsilon..sub.max-.epsilon..sub.i)/.epsilon..sub.max).times.100
[0057] To determine the delayed recovery, the percentage residual
elongation of the specimen (.epsilon..sub.2h) is measured, 2 hours
after returning to zero constraint.
[0058] The percentage delayed recovery (R.sub.2h) is given by the
following formula:
R.sub.2h=(.epsilon..sub.max-.epsilon..sub.2h)/.epsilon..sub.max).times.10-
0
[0059] Purely as a guide, a polymer according to one embodiment of
the invention has an instantaneous recovery R.sub.i of 10% and a
delayed recovery R.sub.2h of 30%.
[0060] Advantageously, the block polymer used in the composition
according to the invention has a polydispersity index I of greater
than 2, for example ranging from 2 to 9, preferably greater than or
equal to 2.5, for example ranging from 2.5 to 8 and better still
greater than or equal to 2.8, and especially ranging from 2.8 to
6.
[0061] The polydispersity index I of the block polymer is equal to
the ratio of the weight-average mass Mw to the number-average mass
Mn.
[0062] The weight-average molar mass (Mw) and number-average molar
mass (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography
(THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene
standards, refractometric detector).
[0063] The weight-average mass (Mw) of the block polymer is
preferably less than or equal to 300 000; it ranges, for example,
from 35 000 to 200 000 and better still from 45 000 to 150 000.
[0064] The number-average mass (Mn) of the block polymer is
preferably less than or equal to 70 000; it ranges, for example,
from 10 000 to 60 000 and better still from 12 000 to 50 000.
[0065] Each block of the block polymer of the composition according
to the invention is derived from one type of monomer or from
several different types of monomer.
[0066] This means that each block may consist of a homopolymer or a
copolymer; this copolymer constituting the block may in turn be
random or alternating.
[0067] Advantageously, the intermediate block comprising at least
one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one
constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer is a random
polymer.
[0068] Preferably, the intermediate block is derived essentially
from constituent monomers of the first block and of the second
block.
[0069] The term "essentially" means at least 85%, preferably at
least 90%, better still 95% and even better still 100%.
[0070] Advantageously, the intermediate block has a glass
transition temperature Tg of between the glass transition
temperatures of the first and second blocks.
[0071] The glass transition temperatures indicated for the first
and second blocks may be theoretical Tg values determined from the
theoretical Tg values of the constituent monomers of each of the
blocks, which may be found in a reference manual such as the
Polymer Handbook, 3rd Edition, 1989, John Wiley, according to the
following relationship, known as Fox's law: 1 / Tg = i .times. (
.omega. _ i / Tg i ) , ##EQU1## m.sub.i being the mass fraction of
the monomer i in the block under consideration and Tg.sub.i being
the glass transition temperature of the homopolymer of the monomer
i.
[0072] Unless otherwise indicated, the Tg values indicated for the
first and second blocks in the present patent application are
theoretical Tg values.
[0073] The difference between the glass transition temperatures of
the first and second blocks is generally greater than 10.degree.
C., preferably greater than 20.degree. C. and better still greater
than 30.degree. C.
[0074] In particular, the first block may be chosen from:
[0075] a) a block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40.degree.
C.,
[0076] b) a block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20.degree.
C.,
[0077] c) a block with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree. C.,
and the second block can be chosen from a category a), b) or c)
different from the first block.
[0078] In the present invention, the expression: "between . . . and
. . . " is intended to denote a range of values for which the
limits mentioned are excluded, and "from . . . to . . . " and
"ranging from . . . to . . . " are intended to denote a range of
values for which the limits are included.
a) Block With a Tg of Greater Than or Equal to 40.degree. C.
[0079] The block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40.degree.
C. has, for example, a Tg ranging from 40 to 150.degree. C.,
preferably greater than or equal to 50.degree. C., for example
ranging from 50.degree. C. to 120.degree. C. and better still
greater than or equal to 60.degree. C., for example ranging from
60.degree. C. to 120.degree. C.
[0080] The block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40.degree.
C. may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.
[0081] In the case where this block is a homopolymer, it is derived
from monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from
these monomers have glass transition temperatures of greater than
or equal to 40.degree. C. This first block may be a homopolymer
consisting of only one type of monomer (for which the Tg of the
corresponding homopolymer is greater than or equal to 40.degree.
C.).
[0082] In the case where the first block is a copolymer, it may be
totally or partially derived from one or more monomers, the nature
and concentration of which are chosen such that the Tg of the
resulting copolymer is greater than or equal to 40.degree. C. The
copolymer may comprise, for example:
[0083] monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from
these monomers have Tg values of greater than or equal to
40.degree. C., for example a Tg ranging from 40 to 150.degree. C,
preferably greater than or equal to 50.degree. C., for example
ranging from 50.degree. C. to 120.degree. C. and better still
greater than or equal to 60.degree. C., for example ranging from
60.degree. C. to 120.degree. C., and
[0084] monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from
these monomers have Tg values of less than 40.degree. C., chosen
from monomers with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree. C. and/or
monomers with a Tg of less than or equal to 20.degree. C., for
example a Tg ranging from -100 to 20.degree. C., preferably less
than 15.degree. C., especially ranging from -80.degree. C. to
15.degree. C. and better still less than 10.degree. C., for example
ranging from -50.degree. C. to 0.degree. C., as described
later.
[0085] The monomers whose homopolymers have a glass transition
temperature of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C. are chosen,
preferably, from the following monomers, also known as the main
monomers:
[0086] methacrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.1 in which R.sub.1 represents a
linear or branched unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4
carbon atoms, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group or
R.sub.1 represents a C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 cycloalkyl group,
[0087] acrylates of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CH--COOR.sub.2 in which
R.sub.2 represents a C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 cycloalkyl group such as
isobornyl acrylate or a tert-butyl group,
[0088] (meth)acrylamides of formula: ##STR1## in which R.sub.7 and
R.sub.8, which may be identical or different, each represent a
hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C.sub.1 to C.sub.12 alkyl
group such as an n-butyl, t-butyl, isopropyl, isohexyl, isooctyl or
isononyl group; or R.sub.7 represents H and R.sub.8 represents a
1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl group, and R' denotes H or methyl. Examples
of monomers that may be mentioned include N-butylacrylamide,
N-t-butyl-acrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide,
N,N-dimethyl-acrylamide and N,N-dibutylacrylamide,
[0089] and mixtures thereof.
[0090] Main monomers that are particularly preferred are methyl
methacrylate, isobutyl(meth)acrylate and isobornyl(meth)acrylate,
and mixtures thereof.
b) Block With a Tg of Less Than or Equal to 20.degree. C.
[0091] The block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20.degree. C.
has, for example, a Tg ranging from -100 to 20.degree. C.,
preferably less than or equal to 15.degree. C., especially ranging
from -80 to 15.degree. C. and better still less than or equal to
10.degree. C., for example ranging from -50 to 0.degree. C.
[0092] The block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20.degree. C.
may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.
[0093] In the case where this block is a homopolymer, it is derived
from monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from
these monomers have glass transition temperatures of less than or
equal to 20.degree. C. This second block may be a homopolymer
consisting of only one type of monomer (for which the Tg of the
corresponding homopolymer is less than or equal to 20.degree.
C.).
[0094] In the case where the block with a Tg of less than or equal
to 20.degree. C. is a copolymer, it may be totally or partially
derived from one or more monomers, the nature and concentration of
which are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting copolymer is
less than or equal to 20.degree. C.
[0095] It may comprise, for example
[0096] one or more monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a
Tg of less than or equal to 20.degree. C., for example a Tg ranging
from -100 to 20.degree. C., preferably less than 15.degree. C.,
especially ranging from -80 to 15.degree. C. and better still less
than 10.degree. C., for example ranging from -50.degree. C. to
0.degree. C., and
[0097] one or more monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a
Tg of greater than 20.degree. C., such as monomers with a Tg of
greater than or equal to 40.degree. C., for example a Tg ranging
from 40 to 150.degree. C., preferably greater than or equal to
50.degree. C., for example ranging from 50.degree. C. to
120.degree. C. and better still greater than or equal to 60.degree.
C., for example ranging from 60.degree. C. to 120.degree. C. and/or
monomers with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree. C., as described
above.
[0098] Preferably, the block with a Tg of less than or equal to
20.degree. C. is a homopolymer.
[0099] The monomers whose homopolymer has a Tg of less than or
equal to 20.degree. C. are preferably chosen from the following
monomers, or main monomers:
[0100] acrylates of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOOR.sub.3, R.sub.3
representing a linear or branched C.sub.1 to C.sub.12 unsubstituted
alkyl group, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which
one or more hetero atoms chosen from O, N and S is (are) optionally
intercalated,
[0101] methacrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.4, R.sub.4 representing a linear
or branched C.sub.6 to C.sub.12 unsubstituted alkyl group, in which
one or more hetero atoms chosen from O, N and S is (are) optionally
intercalated;
[0102] vinyl esters of formula R.sub.5--CO--O--CH.dbd.CH.sub.2 in
which R.sub.5 represents a linear or branched C.sub.4 to C.sub.12
alkyl group,
[0103] C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 alkyl vinyl ethers,
[0104] N--(C.sub.4 to C.sub.12)alkyl acrylamides, such as
N-octylacrylamide,
[0105] and mixtures thereof.
[0106] The main monomers that are particularly preferred for the
block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20.degree. C. are alkyl
acrylates whose alkyl chain contains from 1 to 10 carbon atoms,
with the exception of the tert-butyl group, such as methyl
acrylate, isobutyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, and mixtures
thereof.
c) Block With a Tg of Between 20 and 40.degree. C.
[0107] The block with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree. C. may be a
homopolymer or a copolymer.
[0108] In the case where this block is a homopolymer, it is derived
from monomers (or main monomers) which are such that the
homopolymers prepared from these monomers have glass transition
temperatures of between 20 and 40.degree. C. This first block may
be a homopolymer, consisting of only one type of monomer (for which
the Tg of the corresponding homopolymer ranges from 20.degree. C.
to 40.degree. C.).
[0109] The monomers whose homopolymer has a glass transition
temperature of between 20 and 40.degree. C. are preferably chosen
from n-butyl methacrylate, cyclodecyl acrylate, neopentyl acrylate
and isodecylacrylamide, and mixtures thereof.
[0110] In the case where the block with a Tg of between 20 and
40.degree. C. is a copolymer, it is totally or partially derived
from one or more monomers (or main monomers) whose nature and
concentration are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting
copolymer is between 20 and 40.degree. C.
[0111] Advantageously, the block with a Tg of between 20 and
40.degree. C. is a copolymer totally or partially derived from:
[0112] main monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of
greater than or equal to 40.degree. C., for example a Tg ranging
from 40.degree. C. to 150.degree. C., preferably greater than or
equal to 50.degree. C., for example ranging from 50 to 120.degree.
C. and better still greater than or equal to 60.degree. C., for
example ranging from 60.degree. C. to 120.degree. C., as described
above, and/or
[0113] main monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of
less than or equal to 20.degree. C., for example a Tg ranging from
-100 to 20.degree. C., preferably less than or equal to 15.degree.
C., especially ranging from -80.degree. C. to 15.degree. C. and
better still less than or equal to 10.degree. C., for example
ranging from -50.degree. C. to 0.degree. C., as described above,
the said monomers being chosen such that the Tg of the copolymer
forming the first block is between 20 and 40.degree. C.
[0114] Such main monomers are chosen, for example, from methyl
methacrylate, isobornyl acrylate and methacrylate, butyl acrylate
and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0115] Preferably, the proportion of the second block with a Tg of
less than or equal to 20.degree. C. ranges from 10% to 85% by
weight, better still from 20% to 70% and even better still from 20%
to 50% by weight of the polymer.
[0116] However, each of the blocks may contain in small proportion
at least one constituent monomer of the other block.
[0117] Thus, the first block may contain at least one constituent
monomer of the second block, and vice versa.
[0118] Each of the first and/or second blocks may comprise, in
addition to the monomers indicated above, one or more other
monomers known as additional monomers, which are different from the
main monomers mentioned above.
[0119] The nature and amount of this or these additional monomer(s)
are chosen such that the block in which they are present has the
desired glass transition temperature.
[0120] This additional monomer is chosen, for example, from:
[0121] hydrophilic monomers such as:
[0122] ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one
carboxylic or sulphonic acid function, for instance:
acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride,
itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid,
acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric
acid, and salts thereof,
[0123] ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one
tertiary amine function, for instance 2-vinylpyridine,
4-vinylpyridine, dimethyl-aminoethyl methacrylate,
diethylaminoethyl methacrylate and
dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, and salts thereof,
[0124] methacrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.6 in which R.sub.6 represents a
linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group, the said alkyl
group being substituted with one or more substituents chosen from
hydroxyl groups (for instance 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate and
2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I or F),
such as trifluoroethyl methacrylate,
[0125] methacrylates of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.C(CH.sub.3)--COOR.sub.9, R.sub.9 representing a linear
or branched C.sub.6 to C.sub.12 alkyl group in which one or more
hetero atoms chosen from O, N and S is (are) optionally
intercalated, the said alkyl group being substituted with one or
more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms
(Cl, Br, I or F);
[0126] acrylates of formula CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOOR.sub.10, R.sub.10
representing a linear or branched C.sub.1 to C.sub.12 alkyl group
substituted with one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl
groups and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I or F), such as 2-hydroxypropyl
acrylate and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, or R.sub.10 represents a
C.sub.1 to C.sub.12 alkyl-O-POE (polyoxyethylene) with repetition
of the oxyethylene unit 5 to 30 times, for example methoxy-POE, or
R.sub.8 represents a polyoxyethylene group containing from 5 to 30
ethylene oxide units
[0127] b) ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising one or more
silicon atoms, such as methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane and
methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane,
[0128] and mixtures thereof.
[0129] Additional monomers that are particularly preferred are
acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and trifluoroethyl methacrylate, and
mixtures thereof.
[0130] According to one preferred embodiment, the block polymer is
a non-silicone polymer, i.e. a polymer free of silicon atoms.
[0131] This or these additional monomer(s) generally represent(s)
an amount of less than or equal to 30% by weight, for example from
1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight and more
preferably from 7% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the first and/or second blocks.
[0132] Preferably, each of the first and second blocks comprises at
least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid esters, and
optionally at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid, and
mixtures thereof.
[0133] Advantageously, each of the first and second blocks is
derived entirely from at least one monomer chosen from acrylic
acid, (meth)acrylic acid esters and optionally from at least one
monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0134] The block polymer may be obtained by free-radical solution
polymerization according to the following preparation process:
[0135] a portion of the polymerization solvent is introduced into a
suitable reactor and heated until the adequate temperature for the
polymerization is reached (typically between 60 and 120.degree.
C.),
[0136] once this temperature is reached, the constituent monomers
of the first block are introduced in the presence of some of the
polymerization initiator,
[0137] after a time T corresponding to a maximum degree of
conversion of 90%, the constituent monomers of the second block and
the rest of the initiator are introduced,
[0138] the mixture is left to react for a time T' (ranging from 3
to 6 hours), after which the mixture is cooled to room
temperature,
[0139] the polymer dissolved in the polymerization solvent is
obtained.
[0140] The term polymerization solvent means a solvent or a mixture
of solvents. The polymerization solvent may be chosen in particular
from ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, alcohols such as isopropanol,
ethanol, aliphatic alkanes such as isododecane and mixtures
thereof. Preferably, the polymerization solvent is a mixture of
butyl acetate and isopropanol or isododecane.
First Embodiment
[0141] According to a first embodiment, the block polymer comprises
a first block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40.degree. C.,
as described above in a) and a second block with a Tg of less than
or equal to 20.degree. C., as described above in b).
[0142] Preferably, the first block with a Tg of greater than or
equal to 40.degree. C. is a copolymer derived from monomers which
are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a
glass transition temperature of greater than or equal to 40.degree.
C., such as the monomers described above.
[0143] Advantageously, the second block with a Tg of less than or
equal to 20.degree. C. is a homopolymer derived from monomers which
are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a
glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20.degree.
C., such as the monomers described above.
[0144] Preferably, the proportion of the block with a Tg of greater
than or equal to 40.degree. C. ranges from 20% to 90%, better still
from 30% to 80% and even better still from 50% to 70% by weight of
the polymer. Preferably, the proportion of the block with a Tg of
less than or equal to 20.degree. C. ranges from 5% to 75%,
preferably from 15% to 50% and better still from 25% to 45% by
weight of the polymer.
[0145] Advantageously, the block polymer may comprise:
[0146] a first block with a Tg of greater than or equal to
40.degree. C., for example ranging from 85 to 115.degree. C., which
is an isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate copolymer,
[0147] a second block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20.degree.
C., for example ranging from -85 to -55.degree. C., which is a
2-ethylhexyl acrylate homopolymer, and
[0148] an intermediate block, which is an isobornyl
acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate random
copolymer.
Second Embodiment
[0149] According to a second embodiment, the block polymer
comprises a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg)
of between 20 and 40.degree. C., in accordance with the blocks
described in c) and a second block having a glass transition
temperature of less than or equal to 20.degree. C., as described
above in b) or a glass transition temperature of greater than or
equal to 40.degree. C., as described in a) above.
[0150] Preferably, the proportion of the first block with a Tg of
between 20 and 40.degree. C. ranges from 10% to 85%, better still
from 30% to 80% and even better still from 50% to 70% by weight of
the polymer.
[0151] When the second block is a block with a Tg of greater than
or equal to 40.degree. C., it is preferably present in a proportion
ranging from 10% to 85% by weight, better still from 20% to 70% and
even better still from 30% to 70% by weight of the polymer.
[0152] When the second block is a block with a Tg of less than or
equal to 20.degree. C., it is preferably present in a proportion
ranging from 10% to 85% by weight, better still from 20% to 70% and
even better still from 20% to 50% by weight of the polymer.
[0153] Preferably, the first block with a Tg of between 20 and
40.degree. C. is a copolymer derived from monomers which are such
that the corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of greater than or
equal to 40.degree. C., and from monomers which are such that the
corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to
20.degree. C.
[0154] Advantageously, the second block with a Tg of less than or
equal to 20.degree. C. or with a Tg of greater than or equal to
40.degree. C. is a homopolymer.
[0155] According to a first variant, the block polymer
comprises:
[0156] a first block with a Tg of between 20 and 40.degree. C., for
example with a Tg of 21 to 39.degree. C., which is a copolymer
comprising isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl
acrylate,
[0157] a second block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20.degree.
C., for example ranging from -65 to -35.degree. C., which is a
methyl methacrylate homopolymer, and
[0158] an intermediate block which is an isobornyl
acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate random
copolymer.
[0159] According to a second variant, the polymer according to the
invention may comprise:
[0160] a first block with a Tg of greater than or equal to
40.degree. C., for example ranging from 85 to 115.degree. C., which
is an isobornyl methacrylate/isobutyl methacrylate copolymer,
[0161] a second block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20.degree.
C., for example ranging from -35 to -5.degree. C., which is an
isobutyl acrylate homopolymer, and
[0162] an intermediate block which is an isobornyl
methacrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate random
copolymer.
[0163] According to a third variant, the polymer according to the
invention may comprise:
[0164] a first block with a Tg of greater than or equal to
40.degree. C., for example ranging from 60 to 90.degree. C., which
is an isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate copolymer,
[0165] a second block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20.degree.
C., for example ranging from -35 to -5.degree. C., which is an
isobutyl acrylate homopolymer, and
[0166] an intermediate block which is an isobornyl
acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate random
copolymer.
[0167] The block polymer may be present in the composition
according to the invention in a dry matter (or active material)
content ranging from 5 to 55%, preferably ranging from 6 to 45% and
better still from 8 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
2) Cosmetically Acceptable Organic Liquid Medium
[0168] The term "organic liquid medium" means a medium containing
at least one organic compound that is liquid at room temperature
(25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (10.sup.5 Pa) such as the
organic oils and solvents commonly used in cosmetic
compositions.
[0169] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the
organic liquid medium of the composition contains at least one
organic liquid which is the or one of the organic solvent(s) for
polymerizing the block polymer as described above. Advantageously,
the said organic polymerization solvent is the major organic liquid
by weight in the organic liquid medium of the cosmetic
composition.
[0170] The organic liquid medium of the composition may represent
from 10 to 95%, preferably from 20 to 90%, and better still from 30
to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0171] The organic oils or solvents can form especially a fatty
phase, and in particular a continuous fatty phase. The composition
may be an anhydrous composition.
[0172] The cosmetically acceptable organic liquid medium of the
composition advantageously comprises at least one volatile organic
solvent or oil defined below.
[0173] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "volatile
organic solvent or oil" means any non-aqueous medium that can
evaporate on contact with the keratin fibre in less than one hour
at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic
solvent(s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic
solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, that are liquid at room
temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature
and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa
(10.sup.-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13
000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa
to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). The expression "non-volatile oil"
means an oil that remains on the keratin fibre at room temperature
and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which in
particular has a vapour pressure of less than 10.sup.-3 mmHg (0.13
Pa).
[0174] These oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, or
mixtures thereof.
[0175] The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly
containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen,
nitrogen, sulphur or phosphorus atoms. The volatile
hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils
containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 branched alkanes, for instance C.sub.8-C.sub.16
isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for
instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane),
isodecane and isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under
the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C.sub.8-C.sub.16 branched
esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other
volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum
distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by the
company Shell, may also be used. The volatile solvent is preferably
chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16
carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
[0176] Volatile oils which may also be used are volatile silicones
such as, for example, linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils,
especially those with a viscosity.ltoreq.6 centistokes
(6.times.10.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s) and especially containing from 2 to
10 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or
alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. As volatile
silicone oils which may be used in the invention, mention may be
made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane,
heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane,
hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane,
decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures
thereof.
[0177] The volatile oil may be present in the composition according
to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 95% by weight
and preferably from 1 to 65% by weight and better still from 5 to
40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0178] The non-volatile silicone oils which may be used in the
composition according to the invention may be non-volatile
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising
alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a
silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon
atoms, phenylsilicones, for instance phenyltrimethicones,
phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes,
diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and
2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0179] The fluoro oils which can be used in the composition of the
invention are especially fluorosilicone oils, polyfluoro ethers,
fluorosilicones as described in the document EP-A-847752.
[0180] The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition
according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 30%
(especially from 0.1 to 30%) by weight, preferably from 0 to 20% by
weight (especially 0.1 to 20%) and better still from 0 to 10% by
weight (especially 0.1% to 10%), relative to the total weight of
the composition.
[0181] In one embodiment of the invention, the organic liquid
medium of the composition comprises at least one volatile organic
oil which is the solvent for polymerizing the block polymer and in
which the block polymer is advantageously soluble. Preferably, this
volatile organic oil is isododecane. Such a composition has the
advantage of being easy to remove when used as makeup, with a
conventional makeup-removing product for waterproof mascaras.
[0182] The composition according to the invention may comprise an
aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which can form the
continuous phase of the composition.
[0183] The aqueous phase may consist mainly of water; it may also
comprise a mixture of water and a water-miscible solvent
(miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25.degree. C.)
such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as
ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such
as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol,
dipropylene glycol, C.sub.3-C.sub.4 ketones, C.sub.2-C.sub.4
aldehydes and mixtures thereof.
[0184] The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible
solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by
weight, preferably ranging from 3% to 80% by weight, and
preferentially ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
Wax
[0185] The composition according to the invention may comprise a
wax or a mixture of waxes.
[0186] The wax under consideration in the context of the present
invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room
temperature (25.degree. C.), with a solid/liquid reversible change
of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to
30.degree. C., which may be up to 120.degree. C.
[0187] By bringing the wax to the liquid form (melting), it is
possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a
microscopically uniform mixture, but on bringing the mixture back
to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of
the mixture is obtained.
[0188] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention
may have a melting point of greater than about 45.degree. C. and in
particular greater than 55.degree. C.
[0189] The melting point of the wax may be measured using a
differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the
calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Metler.
[0190] The measuring protocol is as follows:
[0191] A sample of 15 mg of product placed in a crucible is
subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 0.degree. C. to
120.degree. C., at a heating rate of 10.degree. C./minute, it is
then cooled from 120.degree. C. to 0.degree. C. at a cooling rate
of 10.degree. C./minute and is finally subjected to a second
temperature increase ranging from 0.degree. C. to 120.degree. C. at
a heating rate of 5.degree. C./minute. During the second
temperature increase, the variation of the difference in power
absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the
sample of product is measured as a function of the temperature. The
melting point of the compound is the temperature value
corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the
variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of the
temperature.
[0192] The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to
the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid and rigid at
room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin and
mixtures thereof.
[0193] The wax may also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 30
MPa, preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is
determined by measuring the compression force, measured at
20.degree. C. using a texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by
the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylindrical
spindle 2 mm in diameter, travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1
mm/s, and penetrating into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3
mm.
[0194] The measuring protocol is as follows:
[0195] The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting
point of the wax +20.degree. C. The molten wax is poured into a
container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is
recrystallized at room temperature (25.degree. C.) for 24 hours and
is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20.degree. C., before
performing the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the
maximum compression force measured, divided by the area of the
texturometer spindle in contact with the wax.
[0196] Hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax,
Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax,
ouricurry wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax,
Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes,
paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by
Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters
thereof, may especially be used.
[0197] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic
hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched
C.sub.8-C.sub.32 fatty chains.
[0198] Among these, mention may be made especially of hydrogenated
jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as the partially
hydrogenated trans-isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or sold by
the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference
Iso-Jojoba-50.RTM., hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor
oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil,
bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate sold under the name
"Hest 2T-4S" by the company Heterene and
bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest
2T-4B by the company Heterene.
[0199] Mention may also be made of silicone waxes and fluoro
waxes.
[0200] It is also possible to use the wax obtained by hydrogenation
of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, sold under the name
"Phytowax Olive 18 L 57" or the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of
castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the name
"Phytowax Ricin 16L64 and 22L73" by the company Sophim. Such waxes
are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.
[0201] According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition
according to the invention comprises at least one wax called "hard
wax" which has a hardness greater than or equal to 6 MPa, in
particular ranging from 6 MPa to 30 MPa, and preferably greater
than or equal to 7 MPa, in particular ranging from 7 MPa to 25 MPa,
and even better greater than or equal to 8 MPa, in particular from
8 to 25 MPa, better still greater than or equal to 9 MPa, for
example from 9 to 20 MPa.
[0202] The hardness of the hard wax is measured according to the
same protocol described above.
[0203] As hard wax, use may be made of Carnauba wax, Candelilla
wax, polyethylene waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil, sumac wax,
ceresine, octacosanyl stearate, tetracontanyl stearate, Shellac
wax, behenyl fumarate and
di-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate sold under the name
"Hest 2T-4S" by the company Heterene,
di-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest
2T-4B by the company Heterene, ozokerites such as that sold under
the name Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P" by the company Strahl &
Pitsch, the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified
with stearyl alcohol sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57 by
the company Sophim.
[0204] The hard wax may be present in the composition according to
the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging
from 1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 2% to
10% by weight.
[0205] The composition according to the invention may comprise a
total wax content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular it
may comprise from 5 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 10
to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0206] The wax(es) may be in the form of an aqueous microdispersion
of wax. The expression "aqueous microdispersion of wax" means an
aqueous dispersion of wax particles in which the size of the said
wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 .mu.m.
[0207] Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax
particles, and are described especially in "Microemulsions Theory
and Practice", L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages
21-32.
[0208] In particular, these wax microdispersions may be obtained by
melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally of
a portion of water, followed by gradual addition of hot water with
stirring. The intermediate formation of an emulsion of the
water-in-oil type is observed, followed by a phase inversion, with
final production of a microemulsion of the oil-in-water type. On
cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid wax colloidal particles
is obtained.
[0209] The wax microdispersions may also be obtained by stirring
the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such
as ultrasound, high-pressure homogenizers or turbomixers.
[0210] The particles of the wax microdispersion preferably have
mean sizes of less than 1 .mu.m (especially ranging from 0.02 .mu.m
to 0.99 .mu.m) and preferably less than 0.5 .mu.m (especially
ranging from 0.06 .mu.m to 0.5 .mu.m).
[0211] These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of
waxes. However, they may comprise a small proportion of oily and/or
pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and/or a common liposoluble
additive/active agent.
[0212] In some cases and depending on the wishes of consumers, it
is desirable to prepare cosmetic compositions having the advantages
described above and exhibiting a glossy appearance. Accordingly,
another subject of the present invention is a wax-free composition
for coating keratin fibres comprising a cosmetically acceptable
liquid organic medium and a film-forming linear ethylenic block
polymer, the said polymer being such that when it is present in a
sufficient quantity in the composition, it is capable of forming a
film exhibiting a staying power greater than or equal to 12
hours.
[0213] The term "wax-free" means a composition comprising less than
2% of waxes, preferably less than 1% and better still less than
0.5% of waxes.
[0214] Such a wax-free composition also has the advantage of making
it possible particularly smooth, homogeneous and nongranular of the
deposit.
[0215] Another subject of the present invention is the use of a
wax-free composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable liquid organic medium, a film-forming
linear ethylenic block polymer to obtain a film that is deposited
on the said keratin materials, that is smooth and homogeneous and
has a glossy appearance.
[0216] Such a wax-free composition may be used in particular as top
coat, that is to say as a composition to be applied over a mascara
base coat in order to improve the staying power of the said
mascara.
[0217] The composition according to the invention may contain at
least one fatty compound that is pasty at room temperature. For the
purposes of the invention, the expression "pasty fatty substance"
means fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 20 to
55.degree. C., preferably 25 to 45.degree. C., and/or a viscosity
at 40.degree. C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises),
preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured using a Contraves TV or Rheomat
80 viscometer, equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz. A person
skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring the
viscosity from the spindles MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his
general knowledge, so as to be able to carry out the measurement of
the pasty compound tested.
[0218] These fatty substances are preferably hydrocarbon-based
compounds, optionally of polymeric type; they can also be chosen
from silicone compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture
of hydrocarbon-based compounds and/or silicone compounds. In the
case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, the
hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds (containing mainly hydrogen and
carbon atoms and optionally ester groups) are preferably used in
major proportion.
[0219] Among the pasty compounds which may be used in the
composition according to the invention, mention may be made of
lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or
oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity
of from 18 to 21 Pa.s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and/or a melting
point of from 30 to 55.degree. C., and mixtures thereof. It is also
possible to use esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, in
particular those containing from 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting
point of about from 20 to 35.degree. C. and/or viscosity at
40.degree. C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s), such as triisostearyl
or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate;
cholesterol esters, such as triglycerides of plant origin, such as
hydrogenated plant oils, viscous polyesters such as
poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and mixtures thereof.
[0220] Mention may also be made of pasty silicone fatty substances
such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing pendent chains of
the alkyl or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and
having a melting point of 20-55.degree. C., such as
stearyldimethicones, in particular those sold by Dow Corning under
the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.
[0221] The pasty fatty substance may be present in the composition
according to the invention in a proportion of from 0.01% to 60% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably
ranging from 0.5% to 45% by weight, and better still ranging from
2% to 30% by weight, in the composition.
[0222] The composition according to the invention can contain
emulsifying surfactants, present in particular in a proportion
ranging from 2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition, and better still from 5% to 15%. These surfactants
may be chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants. Reference may
be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology,
Kirk-Othmer", volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for
the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifying) of
surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of the said reference, for
the anionic and nonionic surfactants.
[0223] The surfactants preferably used in the composition according
to the invention are chosen from:
[0224] nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols,
polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as
polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohol, fatty acid esters
of sucrose, alkylglucose esters, in particular polyoxyethylenated
fatty esters of C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl glucose, and mixtures
thereof;
[0225] anionic surfactants: C.sub.16-C.sub.30 fatty acids
neutralized with amines, aqueous ammonia or alkaline salts, and
mixtures thereof.
[0226] Surfactants that make it possible to obtain an oil-in-water
or wax-in-water emulsion are preferably used.
[0227] The composition according to the invention may comprise, in
addition to the block polymer described above according to the
invention, an additional polymer such as a film-forming
polymer.
[0228] The film-forming polymer may be present in the composition
according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from
0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight and
better still from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0229] In the present application, the expression "film-forming
polymer" means a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the
presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a
continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin
materials such as the eyelashes.
[0230] Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the
composition of the present invention, mention may be made of
synthetic polymers, of radical-mediated type or of polycondensate
type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0231] The expression "radical-mediated film-forming polymer" means
a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers containing
unsaturation, in particular ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer
being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).
[0232] The film-forming polymers of radical-mediated type may be,
in particular, vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic
polymers.
[0233] The vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the
polymerization of monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation and
containing at least one acidic group and/or esters of these acidic
monomers and/or amides of these acidic monomers.
[0234] Monomers bearing an acidic group which may be used are
.alpha.,.beta.-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as
acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or
itaconic acid. (Meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferably
used, and more preferably (meth)acrylic acid.
[0235] The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from
(meth)acrylic acid esters (also known as (meth)acrylates),
especially (meth)acrylates of an alkyl, in particular of a
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 and preferably C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkyl,
(meth)acrylates of an aryl, in particular of a C.sub.6-C.sub.10
aryl, and (meth)acrylates of a hydroxyalkyl, in particular of a
C.sub.2-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl.
[0236] Among the alkyl(meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are
methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate,
isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl
methacrylate and cyclohexyl methacrylate.
[0237] Among the hydroxyalkyl(meth)acrylates that may be mentioned
are hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl
methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0238] Among the aryl(meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are
benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
[0239] The (meth)acrylic acid esters that are particularly
preferred are the alkyl(meth)acrylates.
[0240] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the
esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. some or
all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with
fluorine atoms.
[0241] Examples of amides of the acid monomers that may be
mentioned are (meth)acrylamides, and especially
N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, in particular of a C.sub.2-C.sub.12
alkyl. Among the N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides that may be mentioned are
N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-t-octylacrylamide and
N-undecylacrylamide.
[0242] The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the
homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from
vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers
may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or esters thereof and/or
amides thereof, such as those mentioned above.
[0243] Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned are vinyl
acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and
vinyl t-butylbenzoate.
[0244] Styrene monomers that may be mentioned are styrene and
.alpha.-methylstyrene.
[0245] Among the film-forming polycondensates that may be mentioned
are polyurethanes, polyesters, polyesteramides, polyamides,
epoxyester resins and polyureas.
[0246] The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic,
nonionic and amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics,
polyurethane-polyvinyl-pyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes,
polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas and polyurea/polyurethanes, and
mixtures thereof.
[0247] The polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by
polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular
diols.
[0248] The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or
aromatic. Examples of such acids that may be mentioned are: oxalic
acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric
acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic
acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid,
itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid,
1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid,
isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic
acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid,
2,5-naphthalene-dicarboxylic acid or 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic
acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or as a
combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these
monomers, the ones preferentially chosen are phthalic acid,
isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid.
[0249] The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and
aromatic diols. The diol used is preferably chosen from: ethylene
glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol,
cyclohexanedimethanol and 4-butanediol. Other polyols that may be
used are glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and
trimethylolpropane.
[0250] The polyesteramides may be obtained in a manner analogous to
that of the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with
diamines or amino alcohols. Diamines that may be used are
ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine and meta- or
para-phenylenediamine. An amino alcohol that may be used is
monoethanolamine.
[0251] The polyester may also comprise at least one monomer bearing
at least one group --SO.sub.3M, with M representing a hydrogen
atom, an ammonium ion NH.sub.4.sup.+ or a metal ion such as, for
example, an Na.sup.+, Li.sup.+, K.sup.+, Mg.sup.2+, Ca.sup.2+,
Cu.sup.2+, Fe.sup.2+ or Fe.sup.3+ ion. A difunctional aromatic
monomer comprising such a group --SO.sub.3M may be used in
particular.
[0252] The aromatic nucleus of the difunctional aromatic monomer
also bearing a group --SO.sub.3M as described above may be chosen,
for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, biphenyl,
oxybiphenyl, sulphonylbiphenyl and methylenebiphenyl nuclei. As
examples of difunctional aromatic monomers also bearing a group
--SO.sub.3M, mention may be made of: sulphoisophthalic acid,
sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid,
4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.
[0253] The copolymers preferably used are those based on
isophthalate/sulphoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers
obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol,
cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulphoisophthalic
acid.
[0254] The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be
chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums,
copal resins and cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0255] According to a first embodiment of the composition according
to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble
polymer and may be present in an aqueous phase of the composition;
the polymer is thus solubilized in the aqueous phase of the
composition. Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that
may be mentioned are: [0256] proteins, for instance proteins of
plant origin such as wheat proteins and soybean proteins; proteins
of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates
and sulphonic keratins; [0257] polymers of cellulose such as
hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose,
ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and
quaternized cellulose derivatives; [0258] acrylic polymers or
copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; [0259]
vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of
methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl
acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of
vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam;
polyvinyl alcohol; [0260] polymers of natural origin, which are
optionally modified, such as: [0261] gum arabics, guar gum, xanthan
derivatives, karaya gum; [0262] alginates and carrageenans; [0263]
glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof; [0264]
shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums and copal
resins; [0265] deoxyribonucleic acid; [0266] mucopolysaccharides
such as chondroitin sulphate, and mixtures thereof.
[0267] According to another embodiment of the composition according
to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer
dissolved in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic solvents or
oils such as those described above (the film-forming polymer is
thus said to be a liposoluble polymer). For the purposes of the
invention, the expression "liquid fatty phase" means a fatty phase
which is liquid at room temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric
pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10.sup.5 Pa), composed of one or more
fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, such as the
oils described above, which are generally mutually compatible.
[0268] The liquid fatty phase preferably comprises a volatile oil,
optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils possibly being
chosen from those mentioned above.
[0269] Examples of liposoluble polymers which may be mentioned are
copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to
the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester containing a
saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 19
carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of at
least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (other than the
vinyl ester already present), an .alpha.-olefin (containing from 8
to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (in which the alkyl group
comprises from 2 to 18 carbon atoms) or an allylic or methallylic
ester (containing a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based
radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the
ester group).
[0270] These copolymers may be crosslinked with the aid of
crosslinking agents, which may be either of the vinyl type or of
the allylic or methallylic type, such as tetraallyloxyethane,
divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and
divinyl octadecanedioate.
[0271] Examples of these copolymers which may be mentioned are the
following copolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl
acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl
acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl
propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl
stearate/1-octadecene, vinyl acetate/1-dodecene, vinyl
stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether,
vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl 2,2-dimethyloctanoate/vinyl
laurate, allyl 2,2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl
dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl
stearate, vinyl propionate/vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2%
divinylbenzene, vinyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl laurate, crosslinked
with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether,
crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate/allyl
stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl
acetate/1-octadecene, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, and
allyl propionate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2%
divinylbenzene.
[0272] Examples of liposoluble film-forming polymers which may also
be mentioned are liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those
resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters containing from
9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, and
alkyl radicals containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0273] Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of
polyvinyl stearate, polyvinyl stearate crosslinked with the aid of
divinylbenzene, of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate,
polystearyl(meth)acrylate, polyvinyl laurate and
polylauryl(meth)acrylate, it being possible for these
poly(meth)acrylates to be crosslinked with the aid of ethylene
glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
[0274] The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and are
described in particular in patent application FR-A-2 232 303; they
may have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2 000 to
500 000 and preferably from 4 000 to 200 000.
[0275] As liposoluble film-forming polymers which may be used in
the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in
particular copolymers of C.sub.2-C.sub.20 alkenes, such as
polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.8 alkyl radical, for instance
ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone
(VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of
C.sub.2 to C.sub.40 and better still C.sub.3 to C.sub.20 alkene. As
examples of VP copolymers which may be used in the invention,
mention may be made of the copolymers of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl
methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethyl
methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene,
VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl
methacrylate.
[0276] The film-forming polymer may also be present in the
composition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase
or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, which is generally known as a
latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these
dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
[0277] Aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers which may be
used are the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl
XK-90.RTM., Neocryl A-1070.RTM., Neocryl A-1090.RTM., Neocryl
BT-62.RTM., Neocryl A-1079.RTM. and Neocryl A-523.RTM. by the
company Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432.RTM. by the company Dow
Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD.RTM. or Daitosol 5000 SJ by the company
Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760 by the company Interpolymer or the
aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez
R-981.RTM. and Neorez R-974.RTM. by the company Avecia-Neoresins,
Avalure UR-405.RTM., Avalure UR-410.RTM., Avalure UR-425.RTM.,
Avalure UR-450.RTM., Sancure 875.RTM., Sancure 861.RTM., Sancure
878.RTM. and Sancure 2060.RTM. by the company Goodrich, Impranil
85.RTM. by the company Bayer and Aquamere H-1511.RTM. by the
company Hydromer; the sulphopolyesters sold under the brand name
"Eastman AQ.RTM." by the company Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl
dispersions, for instance "Mexomer PAM" and also acrylic
dispersions in isododecane, for instance "Mexomer PAP" by the
company Chimex.
[0278] According to one embodiment, the composition according to
the invention advantageously comprises a film-forming linear
ethylenic block polymer as described above and particles of
film-forming polymer dispersed in an aqueous phase.
[0279] The composition according to the invention may comprise a
plasticizer, which promotes the formation of a film with the
film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from any of
the compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of
satisfying the desired function.
Additives
[0280] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
a dyestuff, for instance pulverulent dyestuffs, liposoluble dyes
and water-soluble dyes. This dyestuff may be present in a content
ranging from 0.01% to. 30% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0281] The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and
nacres.
[0282] The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or
organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments which
may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated,
zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, as well as iron oxide,
chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium
hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may be
mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes
based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or
aluminium.
[0283] The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such
as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured
nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium
mica with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium
mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and
nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0284] The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C
Red 17, D&C Green 6, .beta.-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown,
D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline
yellow and annatto. The water-soluble dyes are, for example,
beetroot juice, methylene blue, the disodium salt of ponceau, the
disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium
salt of amaranthus, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium
salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, and
xanthophyll.
[0285] The fillers may be chosen from those that are well known to
a person skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic
compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic and lamellar or
spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin,
polyamide powder for instance Nylon.RTM. (Orgasol from Atochem),
poly-.beta.-alanine powder and polyethylene powder,
tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders for instance Teflon.RTM.,
lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded hollow polymer
microspheres such as those made of polyvinylidene
chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel.RTM. (Nobel
Industrie), acrylic powders such as Polytrap.RTM. (Dow Corning),
polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads
(for example Tospearls.RTM. from Toshiba), precipitated calcium
carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate,
hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads.RTM. from
Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived
from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms
and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc,
magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium
myristate.
[0286] The fillers may represent from 0.1% to 25% and better still
from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0287] The composition of the invention may additionally comprise
any additive commonly used in cosmetics, such as antioxidants,
preservatives, fragrances, neutralizing agents, gelling agents,
thickeners, vitamins and mixtures thereof.
[0288] The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions
according to the invention may be organic or mineral, and polymeric
or molecular, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents.
[0289] Mineral lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned
include optionally modified clays, for instance hectorites modified
with a C.sub.10 to C.sub.22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for
instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium
chloride, for instance the product sold under the name "Bentone
38V.RTM." by the company Elementis.
[0290] Mention may also be made of fumed silica optionally
subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of
which is less than 1 .mu.m. Specifically, it is possible to
chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction
generating a reduced number of silanol groups present at the
surface of the silica. It is especially possible to substitute
silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is
then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be:
[0291] trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by
treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane.
Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate" according to
the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the
references "Aerosil R812.RTM." by the company Degussa, and
"Cab-O-Sil TS-530.RTM." by the company Cabot;
[0292] dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are
obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of
polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus
treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the
CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the
references "Aerosil R972.RTM." and "Aerosil R974.RTM."by the
company Degussa, and "Cab-O-Sil TS-610.RTM." and "Cab-O-Sil
TS-720.RTM." by the company Cabot.
[0293] The hydrophobic fumed silica particularly has a particle
size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging
from about 5 to 200 nm.
[0294] The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for
example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric
organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, for instance
those sold under the names "KSG6.RTM.", "KSG16.RTM." and
"KSG18.RTM." from Shin-Etsu, "Trefil E-505C.RTM." and "Trefil
E-506C.RTM." from Dow Corning, "Gransil SR-CYC.RTM.", "SR DMF
10.RTM.", "SR-DC556.RTM.", "SR 5CYC gel.RTM.", "SR DMF 10 gel.RTM."
and "SR DC 556 gel.RTM." from Grant Industries and "SF 1204.RTM."
and "JK 113.RTM." from General Electric; ethylcellulose, for
instance that sold under the name "Ethocel.RTM." by Dow Chemical
and galactomannans comprising from one to six and in particular
from two to four hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide, substituted
with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, for instance guar gum
alkylated with C.sub.1 to C.sub.6, and in particular C.sub.1 to
C.sub.3, alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof. The "diblock" or
"triblock" type block copolymers of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or
polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as those sold under the name
"Luvitol HSBO.RTM." by the company BASF, of the
polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold
under the name "Kraton.RTM." by the company Shell Chemical Co or of
the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type.
[0295] Among the lipophilic gelling agents which may be used in the
compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made
of fatty acid esters of dextrin such as dextrin palmitates,
especially such as those sold under the names "Rheopearl TL.RTM."
or "Rheopearl KL.RTM." by the company Chiba Flour.
[0296] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care
to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount
thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition
according to the invention are not, or are not substantially,
adversely affected by the addition envisaged.
[0297] The composition according to the invention may be
manufactured by known processes generally used in the cosmetic
field.
[0298] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a
mascara.
[0299] The composition according to the invention may be packaged
in a cosmetic set comprising a container delimiting at least one
compartment which comprises the said composition, the said
container being closed by a closing member.
[0300] The container is preferably combined with an applicator,
especially in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of
bristles maintained by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is
described especially in patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,887,622. It may also
be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application
members, obtained especially by moulding. Such combs are described
for example in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be
integrally attached to the container, as described for example in
patent FR 2 761 959. Advantageously, the applicator is integrally
attached to a rod which is itself integrally attached to the
closing member.
[0301] The closing member may be coupled to the container by
screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closing member
and the container is done other than by screwing, especially via a
bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by tightening. The term
"click-fastening" in particular means any system involving the
crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a
portion, especially the closing member, followed by return to the
elastically unconstrained position of the said portion after the
crossing of the bead or cord.
[0302] The container may be at least partially made of
thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials that
may be mentioned include polypropylene or polyethylene.
[0303] Alternatively, the container is made of non thermoplastic
material, especially glass or metal (or alloy).
[0304] The container is preferably equipped with a drainer arranged
in the region of the aperture of the container. Such a drainer
makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to
which it may be integrally attached. Such a drainer is described
for example in patent FR 2 792 618.
[0305] The content of the patents or patent applications cited
above are incorporated by reference into the present
application.
[0306] The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the
following examples.
[0307] The quantities are given in grams.
EXAMPLE 1
Preparation of a poly(isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl
methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate)polymer
[0308] 100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 litre reactor,
and then the temperature is increased so as to pass from room
temperature (25.degree. C.) to 90.degree. C. in 1 hour.
[0309] 120 g of isobornyl acrylate, 90 g of isobutyl methacrylate,
110 g of isododecane and 1.8 g of
2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox.RTM.
141 from Akzo Nobel) are then added at 90.degree. C. and over 1
hour.
[0310] The mixture is maintained for 1 h 30 min at 90.degree.
C.
[0311] 90 g of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 90 g of isododecane and 1.2 g
of 2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane are then
introduced into the preceding mixture, still at 90.degree. C. and
over 30 minutes.
[0312] The mixture is maintained for 3 hours at 90.degree. C., and
then the whole is cooled.
[0313] A solution containing 50% polymer active material in
isododecane is obtained.
[0314] A polymer comprising a poly(isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl
methacrylate) first block with a Tg of 80.degree. C., a
poly(2-ethylhexyl acrylate) second block with a Tg of -70.degree.
C. and an intermediate block which is an isobornyl
acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate random polymer
is obtained.
[0315] This polymer has a weight-average mass of 77 000 g/Mol and a
number-average mass of 19 000, i.e. a polydispersity index I of
4.05.
EXAMPLE 2
Preparation of a poly(isobornyl acrylate/isobornyl
methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate)polymer
[0316] 100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 litre reactor,
and then the temperature is increased so as to pass from room
temperature (25.degree. C.) to 90.degree. C. in 1 hour.
[0317] 105 g of isobornyl acrylate, 105 g of isobornyl
methacrylate, 110 g of isododecane and 1.8 g of
2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox.RTM.
141 from Akzo Nobel) are then added at 90.degree. C. and over 1
hour.
[0318] The mixture is maintained for 1 h 30 min at 90.degree.
C.
[0319] 90 g of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 90 g of isododecane and 1.2 g
of 2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane are then
introduced into the preceding mixture, still at 90.degree. C. and
over 30 minutes.
[0320] The mixture is maintained for 3 hours at 90.degree. C., and
then the whole is cooled.
[0321] A solution containing 50% polymer active material in
isododecane is obtained.
[0322] A polymer comprising a poly(isobornyl acrylate/isobornyl
methacrylate) first block with a Tg of 110.degree. C., a
poly(2-ethylhexyl acrylate) second block with a Tg of -70.degree.
C. and an intermediate block which is an isobornyl
acrylate/isobornyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate random
polymer is obtained.
[0323] This polymer has a weight-average mass of 103 900 g/Mol and
a number-average mass of 21 300, i.e. a polydispersity index I of
4.89.
EXAMPLE 3
Preparation of a poly(isobornyl methacrylate/isobutyl
methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate)polymer
[0324] 100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 litre reactor,
and then the temperature is increased so as to pass from room
temperature (25.degree. C.) to 90.degree. C. in 1 hour.
[0325] 120 g of isobornyl methacrylate, 90 g of isobutyl
methacrylate, 110 g of isododecane and 1.8 g of
2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox.RTM.
141 from Akzo Nobel) are then added at 90.degree. C. and over 1
hour.
[0326] The mixture is maintained for 1 h 30 min at 90.degree.
C.
[0327] 90 g of isobutyl acrylate, 90 g of isododecane and 1.2 g of
2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane are then
introduced into the preceding mixture, still at 90.degree. C. and
over 30 minutes.
[0328] The mixture is maintained for 3 hours at 90.degree. C., and
then the whole is cooled.
[0329] A solution containing 50% polymer active material in
isododecane is obtained.
[0330] A polymer comprising a poly(isobornyl methacrylate/isobutyl
methacrylate) first block with a Tg of 95.degree. C., a
poly(isobutyl acrylate) second block with a Tg of -20.degree. C.
and an intermediate block which is an isobornyl
methacrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate random polymer
is obtained.
[0331] This polymer has a weight-average mass of 100 700 g/Mol and
a number-average mass of 20 800, i.e. a polydispersity index I of
4.85.
EXAMPLE 4
Preparation of a poly(isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl
methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate)polymer
[0332] 100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 litre reactor,
and then the temperature is increased so as to pass from room
temperature (25.degree. C.) to 90.degree. C. in 1 hour.
[0333] 120 g of isobornyl acrylate, 90 g of isobutyl methacrylate,
110 g of isododecane and 1.8 g of
2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox.RTM.
141 from Akzo Nobel) are then added at 90.degree. C. and over 1
hour.
[0334] The mixture is maintained for 1 h 30 min at 90.degree.
C.
[0335] 90 g of isobutyl acrylate, 90 g of isododecane and 1.2 g of
2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane are then
introduced into the preceding mixture, still at 90.degree. C. and
over 30 minutes.
[0336] The mixture is maintained for 3 hours at 90.degree. C., and
then the whole is cooled.
[0337] A solution containing 50% polymer active material in
isododecane is obtained.
[0338] A polymer comprising a poly(isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl
methacrylate) first block with a Tg of 75.degree. C., a
poly(isobutyl acrylate) second block with a Tg of -20.degree. C.
and an intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl
methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate random polymer is obtained.
[0339] This polymer has a weight-average mass of 144 200 g/Mol and
a number-average mass of 49 300, i.e. a polydispersity index I of
2.93.
[0340] The following polymer may be prepared.
EXAMPLE 5
Preparation of a poly(isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl
methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate)polymer
[0341] 100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 litre reactor,
and then the temperature is increased so as to pass from room
temperature (25.degree. C.) to 90.degree. C. in 1 hour.
[0342] 54 g of isobornyl acrylate, 75.6 g of isobutyl methacrylate,
50.4 g of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 110 g of isododecane and 1.8 g of
2,5-bis(2-ethyl-hexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox.RTM.
141 from Akzo Nobel) are then added at 90.degree. C. and over 1
hour.
[0343] The mixture is maintained for 1 h 30 min at 90.degree.
C.
[0344] 120 g of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 90 g of isododecane and 1.2
g of 2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoyl-peroxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane are then
introduced into the preceding mixture, still at 90.degree. C. and
over 1 hour.
[0345] The mixture is maintained for 3 hours at 90.degree. C., and
then the whole is cooled.
[0346] A solution containing 50% polymer active material in
isododecane is obtained.
[0347] A polymer comprising a poly(isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl
methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate) first block with a Tg of
25.degree. C., a poly(2-ethylhexyl acrylate) second block with a Tg
of -50.degree. C. and an intermediate block which is an isobornyl
acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate random polymer
is obtained.
EXAMPLES 6 to 10
Waterproof Mascaras
[0348] The following mascara compositions 9 and 10 according to the
invention and 6 to 8 according to the prior art were prepared:
TABLE-US-00001 Example 6 7 8 9 10 Paraffin wax 15 10 5 5 Beeswax 5
10 5 5 Block polymer of 10 10 25 -- Example 1 as active material
(a.m.) Block polymer of -- 25 Example 3 as a.m. Modified hectorite
5.32 ("Bentone 38V .RTM." from Elementis Propylene carbonate 1.74
Rice starch 0.8 Pigment 8
[0349] For each composition, the dry extract was measured according
to the method of measurement described above in the
description.
[0350] The staying power of the film formed by the composition
according to the invention is evaluated by measuring the water
resistance, as a function of time, of a film of composition spread
onto a glass plate and subjected to stirring in aqueous medium. The
protocol is as follows:
[0351] At ambient temperature (25.degree. C.), a layer of
composition 300 .mu.m thick (before drying) with a surface area of
9 cm.times.9 cm is spread onto a glass plate with a surface area of
10 cm.times.10 cm, and is then left to dry for 24 hours at
30.degree. C. and 50% relative humidity. After drying, the plate is
placed in a 2 litre crystallizing dish 19 cm in diameter, filled
with 1 litre of water and placed on a heating magnetic stirrer sold
under the name RCT basic by the company IKA Labortechnik. A smooth
cylindrical PTFE magnetic bar (6 cm long; 1 cm diameter) is then
placed on the film. The stirring speed is set to position 5. The
water temperature is controlled using a thermometer to a
temperature of 20.degree. C. or 40.degree. C. At time t.sub.0=0,
the stirring is started. The time t (expressed in minutes) after
which the film begins to detach or debond from the plate or when a
hole the size of the stirring magnetic bar is observed, i.e. when
the hole has a diameter of 6 cm, is measured. The water resistance
of the film corresponds to the time t measured.
[0352] The measurement of the viscosity is carried out using the
Rheomat RM 180 equipped with a spindle MS-r3 or Ms-r4 revolving at
240 min.sup.-1 for a current supply at 60 Hz or at 200 min.sup.-1
for a current supply at 50 Hz. TABLE-US-00002 Example 6 7 8 9 10
Viscosity Not 7.6 17.5 Dry extract % measurable, 51 51 Staying
power too thick Greater Greater (crystallizing than 1 day than 1
day dish test
[0353] These mascara compositions according to the invention are
easy to apply to the eyelashes. The mascara forms a smooth and
homogeneous makeup, and thickens the eyelashes. It exhibits a very
good staying power.
EXAMPLES 11 and 12
[0354] A mascara comprising a block polymer according to the
invention (Example 12) and a mascara not forming part of the
invention (Example 11) having the following composition were
prepared: TABLE-US-00003 Example 12 Example 11 (according to
(comparative) the invention) Carnauba wax 4.7 4.7 Beeswax 8.2 8.2
Rice bran wax 2.2 2.2 Modified hectorite 5.5 5.5 ("Bentone 38V
.RTM." from Elementis Paraffin wax 2.2 2.2 Talc 1 1 Vinyl
acetate/allyl 6.7 6.7 stearate copolymer (Mexomere PQ from the
company Chimex) Block polymer of Example 1 -- 10 Polyvinyl laurate
0.7 0.7 (Mexomere PP from the company Chimex) Sulphopolyester
(Eastmann 0.1 0.1 AQ 55S from Eastmann) Preservatives 0.2 0.2
Propylene carbonate 1.8 1.8 Water 7 7 Pigments 5.2 Isododecane qs
100 qs 100
[0355] For each composition, the dry extract and the staying power
were measured according to the methods of measurement described
above in the description.
[0356] The charge in vitro is measured by gravimetry on test pieces
of Caucasian curly hair (30 hair strands 1 cm long distributed over
a distance of 1 cm).
[0357] The test piece is made up by carrying out 3.times.10
passages of mascara separated by 2 minutes with taking up of the
product between each series of 10.
[0358] The test piece is dried for 10 min at ambient temperature
and then weighed.
[0359] This measurement is carried out on 6 test pieces.
[0360] The charge is in fact the quantity of material deposited on
the test piece=made up test piece mass-bare test piece mass.
[0361] The mean charge is the mean of the measurements carried out
on the 6 test pieces.
[0362] The results below were obtained. TABLE-US-00004 Example 11
Example 12 Viscosity (in Pa s) 5.4 4 Dry extract measured (%) 35.3
45.4 Charge in vitro (Mg) 4.9 .+-. 0.7 8.9 .+-. 0.9 Staying power
(crystallizing About 1 hour Greater than 1 dish test) day
[0363] It is observed that the mascara of Example 12 according to
the invention has a charge in vitro and a dry extract and a staying
power greater than the mascara and not comprising a block polymer
(Example 11), while having a low viscosity.
[0364] The mascara is easy to apply to the eyelashes and exhibits,
after application, a charging effect on the eyelashes, while having
good staying power.
EXAMPLES 13 to 16
[0365] Mascaras comprising a block polymer according to the
invention (Examples 14 to 16) and a mascara not forming part of the
invention (Example 13) having the following composition were
prepared: TABLE-US-00005 Example 14 Example 15 Example 16
(according (according (according Example 13 to the to the to the
(comparative) invention) invention) invention) Paraffin wax 2.3 2.3
2.3 2.3 Carnauba wax 6.6 6.6 6.6 6.6 Polyolefin wax 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.1
Beeswax 8.3 8.3 8.3 8.3 Modified hectorite 5.8 5.8 5.8 5.8
Siliconized candelilla 1 1 1 1 wax Rice starch 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
Vinylpyrrolidone/ 2 2 2 2 eicosene copolymer Vinyl acetate/ 2.7 2.7
2.7 2.7 allyl stearate copolymer (Mexomere PQ from the company
Chimex) Block polymer of -- 10 Example 3 (as AM) Block polymer of
10 Example 4 (as AM) Block polymer of 10 Example 1 (as AM)
Polyvinyl laurate 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Preservatives 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Polybutene 1 1 1 1 Propylene carbonate 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 Water 7.6
7.6 7.6 7.6 Ethanol 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 Black iron oxide 4.2 4.2 4.2
4.2 Isododecane qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
[0366] For each composition, the dry extract was measured according
to the method of measurement described above in the
description.
[0367] The charge in vitro and the staying power were measured
according to the method described in the preceding examples.
[0368] The results below were obtained TABLE-US-00006 Example 13
Example 14 Example 15 Example 16 Dry extract 38.1 47.8 48.3 49.7
measured (%) Charge in 6.2 .+-. 1 8.4 .+-. 1.4 7.8 .+-. 0.7 7.8
.+-. 0.9 vitro (Mg) Staying power About Greater Greater About 16 15
min than 1 day than 1 day hours
[0369] It is observed that the mascaras of Examples 14 to 16
according to the invention have a staying power greater than the
mascara not comprising a block polymer (Example 13), and a greater
charge in vitro.
EXAMPLES 17 to 19
Wax-Free Mascaras
[0370] The following mascaras according to the invention were
prepared: TABLE-US-00007 Example 17 Example 18 Example 19 Block
polymer of Example 1 -- -- 45 (as AM) Block polymer of Example 3 45
45 -- (as AM) Mixture of butylene/ethylene/ -- -- -- styrene
triblock copolymer and ethylene/propylene/ styrene starburst
copolymer in isododecane (Versagel MD 960 from the company Penreco)
Octyldodecanol -- 0.6 -- Parleam oil -- 1.4 -- Phenyl trimethicone
-- 1.4 -- (DC556 from Dow Corning) PVP eicosene -- 3.3 -- Pigment
10 3.3 10
[0371] For each composition, the dry extract was measured according
to the method of measurement described above in the
description.
[0372] The average gloss of these compositions was also measured
according to the following protocol:
[0373] A layer of between 50 .mu.m and 150 .mu.m thick of the
composition is spread on a contrast card of Leneta trade mark and
having the reference Form 1A Penopac with the aid of an automated
spreading machine. The layer covers at least the white base of the
card. The deposit is allowed to dry for 24 hours at a temperature
of 30.degree. C., and then the gloss is measured at 60.degree. on
the white base with the aid of a glossmeter of Byk Gardner trade
mark and having the reference microTri-Gloss.
[0374] This measurement (between 0 and 100) is repeated at least
three times, and the average gloss is the average of the at least
three measurements performed.
[0375] The following results are obtained: TABLE-US-00008 Example
17 Example 18 Example 19 Dry extract 58.2 54.6 55 Crystallizing
dish staying Greater Greater Greater power than 1 day than 1 day
than 1 day Average gloss 71.9 81.8 82.5
[0376] These mascaras exhibit good staying power. It is also
observed that the gloss value of the composition increases with the
level of block polymer.
EXAMPLE 20
1) The average gloss of the mascara of Example 13 according to the
prior art is measured using the protocol described above.
[0377] 2) A film of mascara composition of Example 13 (base coat)
300 micrometres thick is spread on a glass plate.
[0378] It is allowed to dry for 2 hours at ambient temperature
(25.degree. C.).
[0379] A film of the composition of Example 18 (top coat) 300
micrometres thick is then spread on the film of the composition of
Example 13.
[0380] The whole is allowed to dry for 24 hours at ambient
temperature (25.degree. C.).
[0381] The average gloss and the staying power of the final film
are then measured according to the protocols described above.
[0382] 3) The results are presented in the following table:
TABLE-US-00009 Example 13 (base coat) + Example 18 Example 13 (top
coat) Average gloss 1.7 60.4 Staying power 15' 1 day
[0383] The application of the mascara of Example 18 according to
the invention as top coat over the mascara of Example 13 according
to the prior art makes it possible to obtain a film of composition
exhibiting a gloss and a staying power which are greater than those
of the base mascara film alone.
EXAMPLES 21 to 24
[0384] The compositions of Examples 22 to 24 comprising a block
polymer according to the invention and the composition of Example
21 (comparative) not comprising a block polymer were prepared.
TABLE-US-00010 Example Example 22 Example 23 Example 24 21
(according (according (according (compar- to the to the to the
ative) invention) invention) invention) Candelilla wax 20 20 15 5
Beeswax -- -- -- -- Paraffin wax -- -- -- -- Carnauba wax -- -- --
-- Block polymer of -- 5 10 20 Example 4 Stearic acid 5.8
Triethanolamine 2.9 stearate Black iron oxide 8 Hydroxyethyl- 0.9
cellulose Gum arabic 3.4 Water, qs 100 preservatives
[0385] For each composition, the dry extract was 5 measured
according to the method of measurement described above in the
description.
[0386] The charge in vitro was measured according to the method
described in the preceding examples.
[0387] The following results are obtained: TABLE-US-00011 Example
21 Example 22 Example 23 Example 24 DE measured 38.8 45.25 45.89
45.12 (%) Charge in 6.73 .+-. 0.64 8.98 .+-. 1.24 8.68 .+-. 1.30
9.13 .+-. 1.43 vitro (mg) Staying power 55'''' 1'25'' 1'40''
2'18''
[0388] The mascaras according to the invention comprising the
specific block polymer have a dry extract of greater than or equal
to 45% and a high charge value in vitro while being easy to
apply.
[0389] After application to the eyelashes, the composition film
additionally exhibits good resistance to crumbling and to sebum,
while being easy to remove when used as makeup using a conventional
makeup remover.
EXAMPLE 25
[0390] The following mascara is prepared: TABLE-US-00012 Candelilla
wax 5 g Ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer; 10 (AM)
(80/20) as an aqueous dispersion at 50% AM ("Daitosol 5000 AD
.RTM." from Daito Block polymer of Example 4 10 (AM) Stearic acid
5.8 Triethanolamine stearate 2.9 Black iron oxide 8
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.9 Gum arabic 3.4 Water, preservatives qs
100
[0391] The dry extract and the staying power were measured
according to the methods of measurement described above in the
description.
[0392] The results obtained are presented in the following table:
TABLE-US-00013 DE measured (%) 45.2 Charge in vitro (mg) 12.5 .+-.
1.42 Staying power 2'24''
[0393] This mascara exhibits good staying power and a thickening
making up of the eyelashes.
* * * * *