U.S. patent application number 10/532362 was filed with the patent office on 2006-04-27 for topical use of post-application expanding cosmetic composition.
Invention is credited to JohnS Kurek, DerrickB McKie, WilliamE McNamara, GiovanaA Sandstrom.
Application Number | 20060088486 10/532362 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 32654650 |
Filed Date | 2006-04-27 |
United States Patent
Application |
20060088486 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
McNamara; WilliamE ; et
al. |
April 27, 2006 |
Topical use of post-application expanding cosmetic composition
Abstract
The present invention provides a method for imparting to the
lips the appearance of more fullness and to the skin, particularly
the face, the masking of surface irregularities, such as fine
lines, wrinkles, and blemishes, by applying thereto a
post-application expanding composition. The composition comprises
one or more surfactants, a solvent for the surfactant(s), a
volatile agent, a film forming agent and, optionally, a colorant,
preferably a pigment.
Inventors: |
McNamara; WilliamE;
(Middletown, NY) ; McKie; DerrickB; (Brooklyn,
NY) ; Kurek; JohnS; (Goshen, NY) ; Sandstrom;
GiovanaA; (Lodi, NY) |
Correspondence
Address: |
Charles J Zeller;Avon Products
Avon Place
Suffern
NY
10901
US
|
Family ID: |
32654650 |
Appl. No.: |
10/532362 |
Filed: |
December 19, 2003 |
PCT Filed: |
December 19, 2003 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/US03/40789 |
371 Date: |
April 20, 2005 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
10331069 |
Dec 27, 2002 |
|
|
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10532362 |
Apr 20, 2005 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/64 ;
424/70.16 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q 5/06 20130101; A61K
8/042 20130101; A61Q 1/10 20130101; A61K 8/8152 20130101; A61K
8/046 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/064 ;
424/070.16 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/81 20060101
A61K008/81 |
Claims
1. A method for improving skin appearance comprising applying to an
area of skin where improved appearance is desired, a
post-application expanding cosmetically acceptable composition
comprising at least one surfactant, a solvent for the surfactant, a
volatile agent in an amount effective to cause the surfactant and
solvent to interact and produce a foam on the skin and thereby
produce an expanded composition, and a film-forming agent, the
film-forming agent being present in an amount effective to form a
film after application of the composition to the skin and, when the
film sets, to fix at least a portion of the expanded composition in
its expanded state, and permitting the composition to remain on the
skin for as long as the improved appearance is desired.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the improvement is an appearance
of fullness or leveling or masking of wrinkles, fine lines,
blemishes or scarring.
3. A method for improving the appearance of skin comprising
applying to an area of skin where improvement is sought, a leave-on
post-application expanding cosmetically acceptable composition and
permitting the composition to remain on said area for an effective
period of time.
4. The method of claim 3, wherein the improvement is an appearance
of fullness or leveling of the skin or masking of wrinkles, fine
lines, blemishes or scarring.
5. The method of claim 3, wherein the post-application expanding
cosmetically acceptable composition comprises at least one
surfactant, a solvent for the surfactant, a volatile agent in an
amount effective to swell the composition after application to the
skin, and a film-forming agent, the film-forming agent being
present in an amount effective to form a film and, when the film
sets, to fix at least a portion of the swelled composition in an
expanded state, and permitting the composition to remain on the
skin for as long as the effect is desired.
6. The method of claim 5, wherein the composition includes about 1
to about 50% by weight of the film-forming agent, based on the
total weight of the composition.
7. The method of claim 5, wherein the composition includes about 5
to about 40% by weight of the film-forming agent, based on the
total weight of the composition.
8. The method of claim 5, wherein the composition includes about 8
to about 30% by weight of the film-forming agent, based on the
total weight of the composition.
9. The method of claim 5, wherein the composition includes about 10
to about 25% by weight of the film-forming agent, based on the
total weight of the composition.
10. The method of claim 5, wherein the film-forming agent is a
polymer.
11. The method of claim 5, wherein the film-forming agent is a
copolymer.
12. The method of claim 11, wherein the film-forming agent is
selected from the group consisting of acrylates copolymer,
methacrylates copolymer, acrylamides copolymer, and mixtures
thereof.
13. The method of claim 5, wherein the composition contains a
colorant.
14. The method of claim 13, wherein the colorant is present in an
amount sufficient to impart to the skin a color other than white
for such effective period of time.
15. The method of claim 14, wherein the skin is the lips.
16. The method of claim 14, wherein the colorant is a pigment.
17. The method of claim 16, wherein the pigment is present in an
amount and of a type such that the composition is suitable as a
lipstick or lip gloss.
18. The method of claim 16, wherein the pigment is present in an
amount and of a type such that the composition is suitable as a
concealer or foundation.
19. The method of claim 16, wherein the pigment is present in an
amount and of a type such that the composition is suitable as an
eye shadow.
20. The method of claim 16 wherein the pigment is a pigment
dispersion.
21. The method of claim 20, wherein the pigment dispersion
comprises water, an iron oxide and a second film forming agent.
22. The method of claim 3, wherein the composition contains a
water-soluble viscosity increasing agent.
23. The method of claim 3, wherein the composition is a gel, an
emulsion or semi-solid in form.
24. The method of claim 3, wherein the composition is a gel based
on an interpolymer gel reaction product.
25. The method of claim 24, wherein the composition contains about
0.05 to about 5% of the interpolymer gel reaction product.
26. The method of claim 24, wherein the interpolymer gel reaction
product is formed from a quaternized cationic polymer and an
anionic polymer.
27. The method of claim 3, wherein the composition contains an
anionic surfactant.
28. The method of claim 27, wherein the anionic surfactant is
selected from the group consisting of water-soluble salts of
C.sub.10 to C.sub.22 fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether
sulfates, alkyl monoglyceryl ether sulfates, alkyl monoglyceride
sulfates, alkyl monoglyceride sulfonates, alkyl sulfonates,
alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether
sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl amidosulfosuccinates,
alkyl carboxylates, alkyl amidoethercarboxylates, alkyl succinates,
fatty acyl sarcosinates, fatty acyl amino acids, fatty acyl
taurates, fatty alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether
phosphates, and mixtures thereof.
29. The method of claim 28, wherein the water-soluble salts of
C.sub.10 to C.sub.22 fatty acids are stearic acid, palmitic acid,
myristic acid selected from the group consisting of sodium,
potassium and triethanolanine salts of palmitic acid, stearic acid,
oleic acid, myristic acid, palm and coconut oil fatty acids, and
mixtures thereof.
30. The method of claim 3, wherein the composition contains an
amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
31. The method of claim 30, wherein the amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactant is selected from the group consisting of
amphocarboxylates, alkyl betaines, amidoalkyl betaines, amidoalkyl
sultaines, amphophosphates, phosphobetaines, pyrophosphobetaines,
carboxyalkyl alkyl polyamines, alkyl amino monoacetates, alkyl
amino diacetates, and mixtures thereof.
32. The method of claim 3, wherein the composition contains a
nonionic surfactant.
33. The method of claim 32, wherein the nonionic surfactant is a
polyoxyethylene derivatives of a polyol ester.
34. The method of claim 5, wherein the volatile agent has a vapor
pressure from about 0.5 Torr to about 30,000 Torr, at a temperature
of about 0.degree. to about 100.degree. C.
35. The method of claim 34, wherein the vapor pressure is from
about 5.0 Torr to about 5,000 Torr.
36. The method of claim 34, wherein the vapor pressure is from
about 100 Torr to about 2,500 Torr.
37. The method of claim 5, wherein the volatile agent is selected
from the group consisting of n-pentane, isopentane, neopentane,
n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, cyclopentane, hexane,
trichlorotrifluorethane, 1,2-dichloro,1,1,2,2-tetrafluoroethane,
hydrofluoroethers, methyl perfluoropropyl ether, and mixtures
thereof.
38. The method of claim 3, wherein the effective period of time is
at least one hour.
39. The method of claim 3, wherein the effective period of time is
several hours.
40. A method for imparting to skin an appearance of fullness or
leveling or for masking skin wrinkles, fine lines, blemishes or
scarring, comprising applying to an area of skin for an effective
period of time where the appearance of fullness, leveling or
masking is desired, a post-expanding composition comprising a
film-forming agent, a surfactant, a solvent for the surfactant, and
a volatile agent, wherein the film-forming agent is present in an
amount effective to form a film that entraps at least a portion of
foam formed by interaction of the volatile agent, the surfactant,
and the solvent for the surfactant after the composition is applied
to said area of skin.
41. The method of claim 40, wherein the composition is permitted to
remain on said area for several hours.
42. The method of claim 40, wherein the composition is permitted to
remain on said area for at least 4 hours.
43. The method of claim 40, wherein the composition is permitted to
remain on said area for at least 8 hours.
44. The method of claim 40, wherein the volatile agent has a vapor
pressure from about 0.5 Torr to about 30,000 Torr, at a temperature
of about 0.degree. to about 100.degree. C.
45. The method of claim 44, wherein the vapor pressure is from
about 5.0 Torr to about 5,000 Torr.
46. The method of claim 44, wherein the vapor pressure is from
about 100 Torr to about 2,500 Torr.
47. The method of claim 40, wherein the volatile agent is selected
from the group consisting of n-pentane, isopentane, neopentane,
n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, cyclopentane, hexane,
trichlorotrifluorethane, 1,2-dichloro,1,1,2,2-tetrafluoroethane,
hydrofluoroethers, methyl perfluoropropyl ethers and mixtures
thereof.
48. The method of claim 40, wherein the skin is skin of the
lips.
49. The method of claim 48, wherein the composition contains a
colorant in an amount sufficient to impart color to the lips for
such effective period of time.
50. The method of claim 3, wherein the composition is contained in
a pressurized container.
51. The method of claim 5, wherein the composition is a
microemulsion, the volatile agent is dispersed in the microemulsion
in nanometer sized droplets and the composition is contained in a
non-pressurized container.
52. The method of claim 5, wherein the volatile agent is
solubilized in the composition and the composition is contained in
a non-pressurized container.
53. The method of claim 52, wherein the volatile agent is
solubilized by inclusion in the composition of an effective
solubilizing amount of a block polymer, polyvinyl alcohol, a
polyvinyl alcohol alternative or a mixture thereof, the polyvinyl
alcohol being selected from the group consisting of
PEG-800/polyvinyl alcohol copolymer, sodium MA/vinyl alcohol
copolymer, acetylated polyvinyl alcohol, vinylamine/vinyl alcohol
copolymer, VP/VA copolymer, polyvinyl acetate and polyvinylacetal
diethylaminoacetate.
54. The method of claim 53, wherein the composition further
includes an ammonium cocoyl isethionate selected from the group
consisting of sodium oleoyl ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium
myristoyl ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl ammonium
cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
ammonium cocoyl isethionate and mixtures thereof.
55. The method of claim 5, wherein the volatile agent is carbon
dioxide produced by reaction of a cosmetically acceptable acid and
a cosmetically acceptable organic or inorganic base in the presence
of water, the acid and base being dispersed in an anhydrous first
composition, the water being contained in a second composition, the
method further including the step of mixing the first and second
compositions on the skin, or shortly before application thereto
whereby the post-application expanding composition is produced.
Description
[0001] This application is a continuation-in-part of application
Ser. No. 10/331,069, filed Dec. 27, 2002.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] 1. Field of the Invention
[0003] The present invention provides a method for improving the
appearance of the skin by topically applying thereto a leave-on
post-application expanding composition. The composition comprises
an agent which, due to its volatility, will expand after it is
applied to skin ("a volatile agent"), a film forming agent and,
optionally, a colorant, preferably a pigment. The method of the
present invention can be employed to provide fullness to the lips,
mask skin fine lines, wrinkles, depressions, acne scars and level
the surface of the skin.
[0004] 2. Description of the Related Art
[0005] Post-application expanding compositions are known in the
art. For example, U.S. Pat. No. 3,541,581 discloses a cleansing or
cosmetic composition in the form of a stable, post-foaming shaving
gel. The disclosed gel has a yield value sufficiently high to
substantially restrain the composition from foaming for at least
about 60 seconds under static ambient conditions. The '581 patentee
states that an object of the invention is to provide a
lather-producing composition that, in addition to possessing the
desirable properties of prior art compositions, is characterized by
being discharged as a stable gel that is substantially free from
foaming. After it is spread over the skin and beard, the gel
produces a post generating foam. The purpose of the invention is to
provide a lather, in-situ, on the surface of the skin so as to
facilitate shaving of facial hair. The invention is also disclosed
to be useful in topical applications for cleansing. Moreover,
coloring materials, such as dyes may be used if desired. However,
unlike the present invention, this composition is not a leave-on
composition
[0006] U.S. Pat. No. 4,528,111 discloses a stable shaving cream gel
that is asserted to possess superior foaming and after-feel
characteristics. Various compatible additives which do not
adversely affect the gel structure may be added in minor amounts.
Coloring materials are included among the materials exemplified as
suitable for such purpose. A combination of the dyes D & C
Yellow #10 and F D & C Blue #1 is employed in Examples 6
through 10. They are however used in very low concentration. For
example 1.2% of a 1% trituration of D& C Yellow #10 dye and
0.45% of a 1% trituration of F D & C Blue #1 dye are employed
in Example 7. Moreover, this composition is not a leave-on
composition.
[0007] Though the post-foaming compositions of the prior art have
been used for shaving facial hair and though such compositions may
contain minor amounts of a dye to impart to the composition a
coloration more pleasing to the consumer, such compositions have
heretofor found no further use. Moreover, such compositions are
applied then soon removed. For example, a post-application
expanding shave gel is applied to the face then promptly removed by
the razor during the shaving process. Prior to the present
invention, post-application expanding compositions have not been
employed as leave-on compositions.
[0008] The present inventors has discovered that compositions that
expand after application, such as the delayed post-foaming
compositions of the prior art, can be surprisingly and
advantageously modified, applied to the skin and allowed to remain
thereon to improve the aesthetic appearance of skin surfaces,
especially skin of the lips and face.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0009] The present invention relates to the topical use of a
leave-on composition that expands after application, such as a
post-foaming composition. More particularly, the invention relates
to a method for imparting an improvement in the appearance of skin,
such as the appearance of fullness, particularly the lips, or the
masking of skin fine lines, wrinkles, depressions and acne scars or
the appearance of a leveling of the skin. The method entails
topically applying to the skin a leave-on composition that expands
after application.
[0010] The method of the present invention utilizes a composition
that contains a surfactant, a solvent for the surfactant, a film
former and a volatile agent that will expand after the composition
is applied to the skin.
[0011] The film-forming agent is present in an amount effective to
form a film after the composition is applied to the skin.
Alternatively, a colorant (preferably, a pigment) is present in an
amount sufficient to mask the color of the foam formed after the
composition is applied to the skin. Preferably, both the
film-forming agent and the colorant are present. When it is desired
that the skin of the lips be treated, the colorant can be employed
in an amount effective to impart a color to the lips.
[0012] The volatile agent can be maintained in a dispersed state in
the composition by storing the composition in a pressurized
container (hereinafter referred to as the "Pressurized
System").
[0013] Alternatively: [0014] 1) the volatile agent can be
solubilized in the composition by including in the composition a
solubilizing amount of a solubilizing agent such as: [0015] (i) a
block polymer, preferably a block polymer ether, such as MEROXAPOL
block polymers, POLOXAMER block polymers, POLOXAMINE block
polymers, or mixture thereof; [0016] (ii) polyvinyl alcohol or a
polyvinyl alcohol alternative, such as (PEG-800/polyvinyl alcohol
copolymer, sodium MA/vinyl alcohol copolymer, acetylated polyvinyl
alcohol, vinylamine/vinyl alcohol copolymer, VP/NA copolymer,
polyvinyl acetate and polyvinylacetal diethylaminoacetate,
(PEG-800/polyvinyl alcohol copolymer, sodium MA/vinyl alcohol
copolymer, acetylated polyvinyl alcohol, vinylamine/vinyl alcohol
copolymer and VP/VA copolymer are preferred polyvinyl alcohol
alternatives); or [0017] (iii) a mixture thereof (this alternative
is herein referred to as the "Solubilization System"); [0018] 2)
the volatile agent can be dispersed throughout the composition in
nanometer sized droplets, in which case the composition is
preferably in the form of a microemulsion (this alternative is
herein referred to as the "Microemulsion System"); or [0019] 3) the
volatile agent can be generated in situ on the skin or just prior
to application to the skin, preferably by reaction of a
cosmetically acceptable acid, such as citric acid, with a
cosmetically acceptable base, such as sodium or potassium
bicarbonate, in the presence of water, in which case the volatile
agent, carbon dioxide, is produced (this alternative is referred to
herein as the "Two Part System").
[0020] The Solubilization, Microemulsion and Two Part Systems
(corresponding respectively to the above alternatives 1, 2 and 3
(hereinafter referred as the "Non-Pressurized Systems") obviate the
need for storing the composition in a pressurized container.
[0021] In its broadest form, the present invention includes the
topical use of any cosmetically acceptable composition for
application to the skin, especially the skin of the lips or face,
wherein the composition expands when applied to the skin, upon
application or after a predetermined time period thereafter, then
sets up in its expanded state, to provide beneficial
characteristics to the skin, such as, in the case of the lips, the
appearance of greater fullness or, in the case of the face, a
leveling effect.
[0022] The method of the present invention involves applying a
leave-on post-application expanding composition to an area of the
skin where an improvement in appearance is desired. The composition
is a leave-on composition because it is permitted to remain on the
skin for a period of at least one hour, preferably several hours,
more preferably at least 4 hours, and most preferably at least 8
hours.
[0023] Preferably, the container for the post-application expanding
composition employed in the method of the invention contains on its
label, outer package, product insert or promotional material,
written indicia instructing that the composition be applied and
maintained on the skin for such period.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0024] The method of the present invention employs a composition
that is comprised of (i) a post-foaming component comprising a
volatile agent, one or more surfactants, and a solvent for the
surfactant(s) and (ii) a film forming agent or colorant.
Preferably, the composition is comprised of (i) a post-foaming
component comprising a volatile agent and one or more surfactants
and (ii) a film forming agent. More preferably, the composition is
comprised of (i) a post-foaming component comprising a volatile
agent, one or more surfactants, and a solvent for the
surfactant(s), (ii) a film forming agent and (iii) a colorant,
preferably, a pigment.
Post-Foaming Component
[0025] The first necessary component of the post-application
expanding composition utilized in the method of the present
invention is a post-foaming component comprised of one or more
surfactants, a solvent for the surfactant(s), and a volatile agent
(blowing agent) that foams the surfactant(s).
[0026] Post-foaming compositions, particularly post-foaming gel
compositions, are known in the art. For purposes of the present
invention, a post-foaming composition is a composition that does
not create a foam as it is dispensed from its container, but
creates a foam after exposure to atmospheric pressure for at least
2 seconds. However, a post-foaming composition may foam even sooner
when exposed to mechanical manipulation and/or to temperatures
greater than ambient temperature. The topical use of such
post-foaming compositions is also within the scope of the present
invention.
[0027] It should be noted that as used herein, the terms
"post-expanding" and "post-application expanding" are
synonymous.
[0028] It should be appreciated that any cosmetically acceptable
post-foaming system can be employed in preparing the
post-application expanding compositions utilized in the method of
the present invention.
[0029] The post-foaming gels of U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,995,521;
3,541,581; 3,654,167; 4,405,489; 4,528,111; 4,651,503; 6,165,456
and US Patent Application Publication US 2002/0122772 A1, the
entire disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference,
are non-limiting examples of suitable post-foaming gels. The
post-foaming gels of U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,541,581; 4,528,111 and US
Patent Application Publication US 202/0122772 A1 are preferred. The
post-foaming gel of U.S. Pat. No. 3,541,581 is most preferred as
the post-foaming component of the post-expanding composition
employed in the method of the present invention. For ease of
removal of the composition, using a water-rinseable post-foaming
component is preferred.
[0030] When the composition employed in the method of the present
invention is based upon the system described in U.S. Pat. No.
3,541,581, in other words, when the composition utilizes the
post-foaming gel of the '581 patent as the post-foaming component
of the composition, the composition is in the form of a stable,
post-foaming gel comprised of (i) about 30 to about 90% by weight
water; (ii) a surfactant selected from a group consisting of
anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants,
(including zwitterionic surfactant) and mixtures thereof, with the
proviso that when a water-soluble salt of a fatty acid is employed
as the surfactant, it is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about
25% by weight and when the surfactant employed is other than a
water-soluble salt of a fatty acid, it is present in an amount of
about 0.1 to about 12.0% by weight; (iii) about 0.1 to about 15% by
weight of volatile liquid post-foaming material ("a volatile
agent") selected from the group consisting of aliphatic
hydrocarbons, halogenated hydrocarbons, perhalogenated hydrocarbons
(particularly perfluorinated hydrocarbons), and mixtures thereof;
(iv) about 0.1 to about 0.8% by weight of an antimicrobial or
preservative; (v) about 1 to about 30% by weight of a polymer film
forming agent (as will be elaborated upon more fully later on in
the present disclosure); (vi) about 0.5 to about 15% by weight of
pigment (including coated and uncoated pigments and combinations
thereof); and (vii) about 0.01 to about 5% by weight of at least
one water-soluble gelling agent which when incorporated in the
composition provides a gel having a yield value high enough to
restrain the composition from foaming for at least 2, preferably 5,
and more preferably 10 seconds, under static ambient conditions
and/or in combination with mechanical manipulation, e.g., with a
mascara applicator. A composition based upon the post-foaming gel
of U.S. Pat. No. 3,541,581 is further described in Example 1 of the
present application.
[0031] Although the focus has been on the use of a post-foaming
component (surfactant(s), solvent and volatile agent) in accordance
with U.S. Pat. No. 3,541,581, as noted earlier, any topically
acceptable post-foaming system can be employed as the post-foaming
component of the composition employed in the method of the present
invention. For example, the post-foaming gel composition of U.S.
Pat. No. 4,528,111 or the self-foaming gel of US Patent Application
Publication US 2002/0122772 A1 may be employed as the post-foaming
component of the composition employed in the method of the present
invention.
[0032] The post-foaming gel of U.S. Pat. No. 4,528,111 is also
suitable as the post-foaming component of the composition. The
post-foaming system of the '111 patent is provided by the
interpolymer gel reaction products of selective anionic polymers,
and selective cationic polymers. This gel is a water soluble
interpolymer gel reaction product formed by the rapid and intensive
interaction of two oppositely charged selective polymers; a
quaternized cationic polymer bearing positive charges and selected
from the group consisting of
poly(diallyldimethylchloride-co-acrylamide) and a quaternary
ammonium cellulose ether polymer, and an anionic polymer bearing
negative charges and selected from the group consisting of
poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) and alginic acid.
The selective group of anionic polymers include: polysulfonic acid
("PSA") such as poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid)
available as POLYMER HSP 1180 from Henkel as a 15% aqueous solution
and alginic acid in free acid form, which is water-insoluble and
available as a powder. Typically, what is employed is about
0.05-5%, preferably 0.1-1.0%, of a water-soluble interpolymer gel
reaction product of a quaternized cationic polymer selected from
the group consisting of poly(diallyldimethyl
chloride-co-acrylamide) and a quaternary ammonium cellulose ether
polymer, and an anionic polymer selected from the group consisting
of poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) and alginic
acid; and about 55-94% water.
[0033] The method of preparing interpolymer gels that can be
employed for purposes of the present invention comprises the rapid
mixing, at a rate of at least 1000 rpm, of high concentrations of
the aforesaid selective anionic and selective cationic polymers in
an aqueous medium substantially free of interfering ingredients,
such as salt, amphoteric, anionic and cationic compounds. The
selective group of quaternized cationic polymers used in the
preparation of the water-soluble interpolymer gels are
water-soluble and include poly(diallyldimethylammonium
chloride-co-acrylamide), which is the copolymer of
dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, having a
molecular weight of more than 500,000, and sold under the name
MERQUAT 550 and MERQUAT S by the Merck Company and obtainable as an
8% aqueous solution.
[0034] The interpolymer reactions of polycationic and polyanionic
materials produce reaction products ranging from insoluble
precipitates to water-soluble and water-insoluble but swellable
gels. The reaction product of poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane
sulfonic acid) (PSA) and MERQUAT 550 loses its fluidity and forms a
clear gel at 7.5% PSA and 4% MERQUAT 550, while the individual
solutions flow freely. The minimum concentration required for the
formation of the interpolymer gel reaction product of PSA and
MERQUAT 550 is 7.5% PSA and 4% MERQUAT 550. The aqueous reaction
mixture, which is the sum total of both solutions, contains 3.75%
PSA and 2% MERQUAT 550. The gel, when diluted to 1.89% PSA and
0.96% MERQUAT 550, still exhibits a high viscosity of more than
24,000 cps, while the individual solutions show a viscosity of 400
cps and 200 cps, respectively. This gel is prepared by vigorously
mixing a 7.5-15% solution of PSA and a 4-8% solution of MERQUAT
550. Slow mixing results in white precipitates within the gel.
Further dilution of the two solutions before mixing also results in
white precipitates when they are mixed. This clearly indicates that
it requires fast and intensive interactions of the two opposite
charges to ensure obtaining the maximum amount of ion pair
formation to give the gel structure. Whether the gel is
water-soluble or water-insoluble depends on the formation of
intimate or loose ion pairs which, in turn, depends on the charge
density and structure of the polyelectrolytes.
Surfactant System
[0035] As noted earlier herein, the post-foaming gel of US Patent
Application Publication US 2002/0122772 A1 can be employed as the
post-foaming component of the composition employed in the method of
the present invention.
[0036] The post-foaming component includes a surfactant system
comprised of one or more surfactants and a solvent for the
surfactant(s), preferably, water or a mixture of water, and one or
more alcohols, most preferably water. The surfactant can be an
anionic surfactant, an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, a
nonionic surfactant or a mixture thereof.
[0037] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from the
group consisting of water-soluble salts of fatty acids, preferably
C.sub.10 to C.sub.22 fatty acids, alkyl sulfates; alkyl ether
sulfates; alkyl monoglyceryl ether sulfates; alkyl monoglyceride
sulfates; alkyl monoglyceride sulfonates; alkyl sulfonates;
alkylaryl sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates; alkyl ether
sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinates; alkyl amidosulfosuccinates;
alkyl carboxylates; alkyl amidoethercarboxylates; alkyl succinates;
fatty acyl sarcosinates; fatty acyl amino acids; fatty acyl
taurates; fatty alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl phosphates; alkyl ether
phosphates; and mixtures thereof. A preferred anionic surfactant is
sodium laureth sulfate.
[0038] Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants that can
be employed include amphocarboxylates, alkyl betaines, amidoalkyl
betaines, amidoalkyl sultaines, amphophosphates, phosphobetaines,
pyrophosphobetaines, carboxyalkyl alkyl polyamines, alkyl amino
monoacetates, alkyl amino diacetates, and mixtures thereof. Betaine
surfactants are preferred. Cocamidopropyl betaine is most
preferred.
[0039] One class of nonionic surfactants useful in the present
invention are polyoxyethylene derivatives of polyol esters, wherein
the polyoxyethylene derivative of polyol ester (1) is derived from
(a) a fatty acid containing from about 8 to about 22, and
preferably from about 10 to about 14 carbon atoms, and (b) a polyol
selected from sorbitol, sorbitan, glucose, alpha-methyl glucoside,
polyglucose having an average of about 1 to about 3 glucose
residues per molecule, glycerin, pentaerythritol and mixtures
thereof, (2) contains an average of from about 10 to about 120, and
preferably about 20 to about 80 oxyethylene units; and (3) has an
average of about 1 to about 3 fatty acid residues per mole of
polyoxyethylene derivative of polyol ester.
[0040] Examples of preferred polyoxyethylene derivatives of polyol
esters include PEG-80 sorbitan laurate and Polysorbate 20. PEG-80
sorbitan laurate, which is a sorbitan monoester of lauric acid
ethoxylated with an average of about 80 moles of ethylene oxide, is
available commercially from ICI Surfactants of Wilmington, Del.
under the tradename, "ATLAS G-4280." Polysorbate 20, which is the
laurate monoester of a mixture of sorbitol and sorbitol anhydrides
condensed with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide, is
available commercially from Uniqema Company under the trade name
"TWEEN 20."
[0041] Another class of suitable nonionic surfactants includes long
chain alkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, which are the
condensation products of (a) a long chain alcohol containing from
about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms, preferably from about 8 to about
14 carbon atoms, with (b) glucose or a glucose-containing polymer.
The alkyl glucosides have about 1 to about 6 glucose residues per
molecule of alkyl glucoside. Alkyl glucosides are the preferred
nonionic surfactants. Suitable alkyl glucosides include, but are
not limited to, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and lauryl
glucoside.
[0042] Additional nonionic surfactants that may be used include:
ethylene oxide/propylene oxide copolymers, (poly)glycerol esters
and fatty acids, fatty acid alkanolamides, alkoxylated mono and
di-alkanolamides, aminoxides, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and
esters, fatty acid sucrose esters, ethoxylated glucosides, and
fatty gluconamides.
Volatile Agent
[0043] In addition to the surfactant system, the post-foaming
component includes a volatile or blowing agent to initiate post
foaming. Suitable for this purpose are volatile or blowing agent(s)
(halogenated or non-halogenated, synthetic or naturally occurring)
with a vapor pressure from about 0.5 Torr to about 30,000 Torr,
preferably from about 5.0 Torr to about 5,000 Torr, and more
preferably, from about 100 Torr to about 2,500 Torr, at a
temperature of about 0.degree. to about 100.degree. C.
[0044] Examples of preferred volatile agents include but are not
limited to n-pentane, isopentane, neopentane, n-butane, isobutane,
isobutene, cyclopentane, hexane, trichlorotrifluorethane,
1,2-dichloro, 1,1,2,2-tetrafluoroethane, hydrofluoroethers (eg.
methyl perfluorobutuyl ether/methyl perfluoroisobutyl ether (CF-61,
NOVEC-7100, a product of 3M), ethyl perfluorobutyl ether/ethyl
perfluoroisobutyl ether (CF-76, NOVEC HFE-7200, a product of 3M),
2-trifluoromethyl-3-ethoxydodecafluorohexane (NOVEC HFE-7500, a
product of 3M)), methyl perfluoropropyl ether, and mixtures
thereof. Other suitable volatile agents may include, but are not
limited to, perfluoromethylcyclohexane, manufactured by F2
Chemicals Ltd. under the trade name Flutec PP2, or Flutec PC2;
perfluoromethylcyclopentane, available from the same company under
the trade name Flutec PC1C; and perfluorohexane and
perfluorodimethylcyclohexane, available from the same company under
the trade names Flutec PC1 and Flutec PC3, respectively.
Perfluorodimethylcyclopentane (molecular weight of about 350) is
also expected to be suitable in the present invention.
Film Forming Agent
[0045] The post-application expanding composition employed in the
method of the present invention preferably contains a film forming
agent.
[0046] The film forming agent is present in an amount sufficient so
that when the post-application expanding composition is applied to
the skin of the lips, or face, and the post-foaming component
begins to foam and expand the composition, the film formed by the
film forming agent will stabilize at least a portion of the foam
lattice when it sets (as will be elaborated on more fully below)
and fix at least a portion of the composition in an expanded
state.
[0047] The film forming agent can be natural or synthetic. Film
forming waxes are known in the art and can be employed alone or in
combination with one or more natural or synthetic film forming
agents. Synthetic film forming agents, for example, acrylates
copolymers and/or methacrylates copolymers, acrylamide copolymers,
and mixtures thereof, are particularly preferred.
[0048] Water-soluble film forming agents that can be utilized are
exemplified in monographs 27-33 of the International Cosmetic
Ingredient Dictionary and handbook, 9.sup.th Ed. (2002).
Particularly preferred film formers include; (i) acrylamide
copolymer; for example, acrylamides/DMAPA acrylates/methoxy PEG
methacrylate copolymer, acrylmaide/sodium acrylate copolymer,
acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer,
acrylates/acrylamide copolymer, acrylates/t-butylacrylamide
copolymers and (ii) acrylates copolymer, for example, BF Goodrich's
AVALURE AC115, AVALURE AC118, AVALURE AC120, AVALURE AC125, AVALURE
AC210 and AVALURE AC315; LCW's COVACRYL A15 and COVACRYL E14; Daito
Kasei's DAITOSOL 5000 AD; acrylates/C1-2
succinates/hydroxyacrylates copolymer; acrylates/dimethicone
copolymer; acrylates/dimethicone methacrylate/ethylhexyl acrylate
copolymer; acrylates/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer;
acrylates/ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer;
acrylates/ethylhexylacrylate/HEMA/styrene copolymer;
acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer;
acrylates/laurylacrylate/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide
methacrylate copolymer; acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer;
acrylates/propyl trimethicone methacrylate copolymer;
acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer;
acrylates/VP copolymer; and acrylates/VP/dimethylaminoethyl
methacrylate/diacetone acrylamide/hydroxypropyl acrylate copolymer.
Polyvinyl alcohol and water-soluble polyvinyl esters can also be
employed.
[0049] More preferred film-forming agents include sodium acrylates
copolymer, sodium acryloldimethyl taurate copolymer, ethyl
methacrylate/N-butyl acrylate/2-methylhexyl acrylate copolymer, and
butyl acrylate/hydroxyethyl methacrylate copolymer. Polymeric
blends, such as Interpolymer's SYNTRAN EX-100 and Kobo Product's
DAITOSOL 5000 SJ are also useful as synthetic polymer film forming
agents in the composition employed in the method of the present
invention.
[0050] Depending on whether the post-application expanding
composition is mostly water or mostly oil, an appropriate film
forming agent can be utilized. In point of fact, when the
post-expanding composition is an emulsion, a water-soluble film
forming agent, an oil-soluble film forming agent, or both, can be
employed.
[0051] When the post-expanding composition is mostly oil (either
organic or synthetic), an oil-soluble synthetic polymer can
employed as the film forming agent. Suitable oil-soluble synthetic
polymers include, for example, polyurethane-1, polyurethane-2,
polyurethane-3, polyurethane-4, polyurethane-5, polyurethane-6,
polyurethane-7, polyurethane-8, polyurethane-9, polyurethane-10,
polyurethane-11, polyethylene, oxidized polyethylene,
polypropylene, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, tricontanyl
trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, styrene/MA copolymer,
styrene/DVB copolymer, various quaternary ammonium synthetic
polymers, and crosspolymer, such as PVM/MA decadiene
crosspolymer.
[0052] Various oil-soluble derivatives of polyvinyl pyrrolidone
copolymers can also be used, with polyvinylpyrrolidone/decene
copolymer and poly (vinyl pyrrolidone/1-triacontene) being
preferred. The ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer can be used as
well.
[0053] Water-soluble polyurethanes can also be used as the film
forming agent, for example, EPQ 30 and EPQ 31 (Johnson Polymers)
and the polyester urethane GK 910 (ALZO International, Inc.).
[0054] Preferably, the film forming agent is present in the
post-application expanding composition in a concentration of from
about 1 to about 50% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about
40% by weight, most preferably about 8 to about 30% by weight, and
optimally about 10 to about 25% by weight, based on the total
weight of the post-application expanding composition.
[0055] When the post-expanding composition is applied on the skin,
such as the lips or face, the volatile agent will release and cause
the surfactant and solvent for the surfactant to swell/expand the
composition. When the film forming agent sets, it fixes at least a
portion of the swelled/expanded composition on the skin in its
swelled/expanded state, thereby imparting, in the case of the lips,
the appearance of fullness and in the case of the face, a desirable
leveling effect and/or masking effect. Furthermore, the composition
employed in the method of the present invention delivers a unique
aesthetic feature manifested in a light or airy feel due to the
nature of the expanded composition.
[0056] As will be discussed below, the post-application expanding
composition may contain a pigment dispersion that includes one or
more film forming agents. The amount of film forming agent
contributed by the pigment dispersion is considered in the total
amount of film forming agent in the post-application expanding
composition. For example, if the post-application expanding
composition contains 50 wt %, based on the total weight of the
composition, of a pigment dispersion that further contains 40 wt %,
based on the total weight of the pigment dispersion, of a film
forming agent, the composition of the invention has 20 wt %, based
on the total weight of the composition, film forming agent (due to
the contribution of the pigment dispersion). Additional film
forming agent may be added. However, from a cost standpoint it is
preferred that the total not exceed about 50 wt %, based upon the
total weight of the composition.
[0057] While the present inventors do not wish to be bound to any
one theory, it is believed that during the post-foaming action the
film forming agent will set, thus, locking or sealing the foam
lattice in place, either by forming a film, preferably a flexible
film, over at least a portion of the surface of the foam or by
increasing the rigidity of the foam lattice thereby stabilizing the
foam. Preferably, a film will form over greater than about 50% of
the surface of the foam, and more preferably over greater than
about 75% of the surface of the foam. Alternatively, the film
forming agent increases the rigidity of the foam lattice by greater
than about 50%, and more preferably by greater than about 75%.
[0058] Since the compositions employed in the method of the present
invention are preferably used as cosmetic compositions for
application to the skin, preferably the lips and/or face, it is
preferred that the film forming agent be of the type and amount to
allow the composition to be removed from the user with water, mild
soap or a mild cosmetic cleanser. Where water
washability/rinseability is not required, a non-water-soluble film
forming agent can of course be employed.
Colorant
[0059] An optional component of the post-application expanding
composition is a colorant, preferably a pigment.
[0060] The cosmetic composition employed in the method of the
present invention can be transparent or colored. Preferably, when
it is to be applied to the lips, it is colored. Prior art
post-foaming gels have included colorants as an optional ingredient
to give the composition a pleasing appearance. The composition
employed in the method of the present invention, optionally,
incorporates one or more colorants in an amount sufficient to mask
the color of the foam, which is usually white. When the composition
contains, for example, pigment in an amount sufficient to mask the
color of the foam and impart a color to skin treated with the
composition, such as the lips, the composition can be used as a
lipstick, lip gloss or other lip colorant. Alternatively, the
composition can contain pigment(s) in an amount and of a type such
that the composition when applied to the skin will function as an
eyeshadow, concealer or foundation.
[0061] Virtually any level of colorant, preferably pigment, can be
used so long as it substantially alters (preferably masks) the
color of the foam that is otherwise produced absent the colorant.
Preferably the colorant, preferably pigment(s), is present in an
amount sufficient to impart a color to the skin on which it is
applied. When the post-application expanding composition is to be
applied to the skin, it generally includes about 0.5 to about 30%
by weight, preferably about 1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably
about 2 to about 10% by weight, colorant, preferably pigment, based
upon the total weight of the post-application expanding
composition.
[0062] Thus, a post-application expanding composition for
application to the skin, preferably to the lips, preferably
includes as a component, a colorant, preferably a pigment, most
preferably a pigment dispersion containing one or more film forming
agents, which are preferably film forming polymers. The pigment
dispersion is preferred because of the physical attributes
associated with a finely dispersed, clump free, color solution
providing added film forming capability, particularly in the case
of a lip coloring product.
[0063] Examples of pigment dispersions that can be employed include
the following pigment dispersions available from Kobo Products:
WSJ24BAMP
(INCI Name: Water (and) Acrylates/Octyl acrylate copolymer (and)
Iron oxides (C.I.77499)(and) Sodium acrylate/Sodium
acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (and) Aminomethyl propanol);
WSJ22RAMP
(INCI Name: Water (and) Acrylates/Octyl acrylate copolymer (and)
Iron oxides (C.I.77491)(and) Sodium acrylate/Sodium
acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (and) Aminomethyl propanol);
WSJ20YAMP
(INCI Name: Water (and) Acrylates/Octyl acrylate copolymer (and)
Iron oxides (C.I.77492) (and) Sodium acrylate/Sodium
acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (and) Aminomethyl propanol);
WSJ30AMPC
(INCI Name: Water (and) Acrylates/Octyl acrylate copolymer (and)
Titanium dioxide (and) Sodium acrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyl
taurate copolymer (and) Aminomethyl propanol);
GLW60BAMP
(INCI Name: Iron oxide (C.I.77499) (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and)
Aminomethyl propanol);
GLW55RAMP
(INCI Name: Iron oxide (C.I.77491) (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and)
Aminomethyl propanol);
GLW45YAMP
(INCI Name: Iron oxide (C.I.77491) (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and)
Aminomethyl propanol); and
GLW75AMPC
(INCI Name: Titanium dioxide (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and)
Aminomethyl propanol).
[0064] Pearl type pigments can also be employed, for example,
GEMTONE OPAL: (available from Engeihard Corp.) Mica (and) Iron
oxides (and) Titanium dioxide;
PEARLSECENT COPPER: (available from Presperse);
TIMICA GOLD SPARKLE: (available from Engelhard Corp.) Mica (and)
Titanium dioxide (and) Iron oxides;
TIMICA NU-ANTIQUE BRONZE: (available from Engelhard Corp.) Mica
(and) Iron oxides (and) Titanium dioxide;
VISIONAIRE AMBER: (available from Presperse) Aluminum (and) Silicon
dioxide;
PRESTIGE SILKY GOLD: (available from Presperse);
PRESTIGE DAZZLING SILVER: (available from Presperse);
PRESTIGE BRIGHT RED: (available from Presperse); and
PRESTIGE DAZZLING RED GOLD: (available from Presperse).
[0065] Talc, for example, ULTRATALC FS: (available from Cardre)
Talc & Tridecafluoroctyltriethoxy silane can also be
employed.
[0066] It should be appreciated that in lieu of the about 0.5 to
about 30% by weight of pigment, that is typically employed, the
post-application expanding composition can contain from about 0.5
to about 90% by weight of a pigment dispersion comprised of
polymeric film forming agents, pigment, emulsifier and other
adjuvants. Thickeners, such as for example, COVAGEL, available from
LCW, can also be utilized.
Optional Ingredients
[0067] The post-application expanding composition can optionally
contain ingredients typically employed in cosmetics, provided they
do not adversely effect the performance of the composition so as to
prevent realization of its beneficial effects. Such additional
ingredients include, for example, vitamins, antioxidants,
sunscreens, and preservatives.
Cosmetic Composition
[0068] It should be appreciated that the composition employed in
the method of the present invention can be formulated as a gel,
cream, emulsion, low or high viscosity liquid or semi-solid and can
be packaged in a pressurized system or non-pressurized system. When
pressurized, it will be suitably packaged in an aerosol container.
When non-pressurized, it will be suitably packaged in a closed,
preferably sealed, container.
[0069] It should be further appreciated that the cosmetic
composition of the present invention can bring about the benefits
of the invention, particularly as it relates to the facial skin
benefits such as masking fine lines and wrinkles, depressions, acne
scars and skin leveling, while being substantially free, and
preferably totally free, of skin care active agents. Optionally,
the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain such
active agents, for example, one or more exfoliating agents, such as
alphahydroxy acids, betahydroxy acids, keto acids, oxa acids, oxa
diacids, salicylic acids and retinol.
[0070] The following examples are offered merely to further
illustrate the present invention, they are not intended to be
limiting in any respect. It should be appreciated that unless
otherwise indicated all percentages utilized herein are percent by
weight, based on the total weight of the post-application expanding
composition.
Pressurized System
[0071] Examples 1 through 14, which follow, illustrate
post-application expanding compositions that employ a blowing agent
to generate the post-foaming action and require packaging in a
pressurized container.
[0072] A general formula for a particularly preferred formulation
in accordance with the present invention is set forth in the
following Example 1.
EXAMPLE 1
[0073] When the cosmetic composition of the present invention
employs a post-foaming component as described in U.S. Pat. No.
3,541,581, the post-application expanding composition may
include:
[0074] 1. A solvent or solublizing component that coupled with a
surfactant provides lathering properties is compatible with film
forming agents and allows for the manufacture of a stable gel.
Water, deionized, distilled or even tap water, is preferred as the
solublizing component. It is generally employed in a range of about
15 to about 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the
composition. Alcohol or a mixture of one or more alcohols and water
can also be employed as a solubilizing component.
[0075] 2. A water-soluble soap component prepared by alkaline
hydrolysis of a C.sub.10-C.sub.22 fatty acid, for example, through
use of ammonia, low molecular weight amines, especially
alkanolamines and alkali metals, especially sodium and potassium.
Preferably the water-soluble component is selected from sodium,
potassium and triethanolamine salts of high molecular weight fatty
acids (C.sub.10-C.sub.22). Palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid,
myristic acid, palm and coconut oil fatty acids are preferred.
Additionally, betaines and sultaines can be employed, alone or in
combination with the previously mentioned sodium, potassium or
triethanolamine salts of fatty acids, so as to accomplish the
foaming action, or simply for boosting foaming. Typically, the
water-soluble soap component is present in a concentration of from
about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the
composition.
[0076] 3. A water-soluble viscosity increasing or gelling component
selected from synthetic sucrose derivatives (such as carbomer),
cellulose gums (such as hydroxyethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl
cellulose) and natural hydrophilic colloids (such as carrageenans).
The water-soluble viscosity increasing or gelling agent is
generally employed in a concentration of from about 0.1 to about 5%
by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, depending
upon the choice of thickener.
[0077] 4. A film forming agent in a concentration of from about 1
to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the
composition.
[0078] 5. A volatile or blowing agent to initiate post-foaming.
[0079] 6. A colorant is optionally included in an amount from about
1 to about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the
composition. The colorant is preferably a pigment, and most
preferably a pigment dispersion.
[0080] 7. A preservative is optionally included. NIPASTAT, GERMABEN
II, LIQUAPAR OIL, AND LIQUAPAR PE are examples of preservative
systems that can be utilized. They are generally employed in a
concentration effective to inhibit microbial growth. Preferably,
the preservative is present in an amount about 0.1 to about 0.8% by
weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
EXAMPLE 2
Typical Method of Manufacture
[0081] A composition employable in the method of the present
invention may be made according to the following general procedure.
Although the process employs a specified formulation to exemplify
the process employed, other compositions of the invention can be
similarly prepared. TABLE-US-00001 Phase Ingredient wt. % A
Deionized water (DM) 43.01 A Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) 0.5 B
Triethanolamine (TEA) 1.0 B Oleth-3-phosphate 0.5 B Isoceteth-20
0.5 B Palmitic acid 3.0 C SYNTAN EX-100 18.0 C DAITOSOL 5000SJ 10.0
C POLYURETHANE 1.0 C Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.5 D WSJ24BAMP 2.02 D
WSJ24RAMP 11.43 D WSJ24AMPC 2.91 D WSJ24YAMP 3.63 D LIQUAPAR 0.5 E
Isopentane 1.5
Procedure: [0082] Sprinkle BEC into water under medium/slow
(400-600 RPM) tripleL blade mix. Allow HEC to fully disperse with
no clumps [0083] Cover and heat phase A to 75.degree. C. [0084] Add
phase B ingredients about 3-5 minutes apart thereby allowing each
to fully mix/disperse before adding the next [0085] Mix the
combined phases A and B at 75.degree. C. for 10 minutes [0086] Add
phase C ingredients one at a time to the mixture of phases A and B
allowing the batch temperature to come back up to 75.degree. C.
before adding next. [0087] Mix the combination of phases A, B and C
at 75.degree. C. for 15 minutes [0088] Remove heat and switch to
sweep blade at 50 RPM [0089] At about 45.degree. C., add pigment
dispersion(s) slowly under sweep. Use spatula to scrape sides of
beaker and ensure thorough mix [0090] At about 30.degree. C., add
preservative under sweep [0091] Continue the sweeping mixing until
the mixture reaches room temperature [0092] Cool the mixture to
about 2 to about 5.degree. C. then add the volatile agent
(isopentane), at about the same temperature, under high speed
agitation. Charge the resultant mixture into a suitable pressure
resistant container.
EXAMPLES 3-8
[0093] TABLE-US-00002 Plumping Lipsticks (Pressurized) Ingredients
Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Distilled Water 22.76 43.26
23.76 24.76 42.2 41.26 Oleth-3 phosphate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Isoceteth-20 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.5 0.5
0.5 0.5 0.5 -- Palmitic acid 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 1.5 3.0
Triethanolamine 99% 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.8 1.0 SYNTRAN EX-100 18.0
18.0 18.0 10.0 18.0 18.0 DAITOSOL 5000 SJ 12.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 12.0
10.0 Johnson polymer EPQ -- 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 -- WSJ24 BAMP 2.02 2.02
2.02 2.02 2.02 2.02 WSJ22 RAMP 11.43 11.43 11.43 11.43 11.43 11.43
WSJ30 AMPC 2.91 2.91 2.91 2.91 2.91 2.91 WSJ20 YAMP 3.63 3.63 3.63
3.63 3.63 3.63 Fumed silica talc 1.0 -- -- 1.0 1.0 1.0 BRIGHT RED
(pearl) 7.5 -- 7.5 -- -- 2.5 DAZZLING SILVER 10.0 -- 10.0 -- -- 1.5
(pearl) CLOISONNE SATIN -- -- -- 2.5 -- -- ROUGE Isopentane 1.5 1.5
1.5 1.5 -- 1.0 N-Pentane/Isopentane -- -- -- -- 1.5 -- (1:1 ratio)
LIQUAPAR 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hydroyethyl cellulose 0.25 0.25
0.25 0.25 0.76 0.75
EXAMPLES 9-11
[0094] TABLE-US-00003 Eye Shadow (Pressurized) Ingredients Ex. 9
Ex. 10 Ex. 11 Distilled water 49.87 52.34 51.44 Oleth-3 phosphate
0.5 0.5 0.5 Isoceteth-20 0.5 0.5 0.5 Butylene glycol 2.11 2.1 2.1
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.5 -- 0.25 Palmitic acid 3.0 3.0 2.5
Triethanolamine 99% 0.8 1.0 0.8 COVAGEL 2.11 -- -- DAITOSOL 5000 SJ
10.0 10.0 10.0 SYNTRAN EX-100 12.0 12.0 12.0 Johnson polymer EPQ --
-- 1.0 TiO.sub.2 3.26 3.26 3.26 GEMTONE TAN OPAL 1.94 1.94 1.94
PEARLESCENT 1.61 1.61 1.61 COPPER Mica 2.09 2.09 2.09 Fumed silica
talc 1.94 1.94 1.94 TIMICA GOLD 2.35 2.35 2.35 NU-ANTIQUE BRONZE
1.85 1.85 1.85 VISION AMBER 1.52 1.52 1.52 Isopentane 1.25 -- 1.25
N-Pentane/Isopentane -- 1.0 -- (1:1 ratio) LIQUAPAR 0.5 0.5 0.5
Hydroyethyl cellulose 0.35 0.5 0.6
EXAMPLES 12-14
[0095] TABLE-US-00004 Foundation and/or Concealer (Pressurized)
Ingredients Ex. 12 Ex. 13 Ex. 14 Distilled water 23.25 24.51 27.44
Oleth-3 phosphate 0.25 0.4 0.5 Isoceteth-20 0.25 0.4 0.5 Butylene
glycol 19.12 18.0 18.0 Propylene glycol 4.59 4.59 4.5
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.21 0.25 0.25 Palmitic acid 1.26 1.5 2.0
Triethanolamine 99% 0.5 0.7 0.8 COVAGEL 2.11 -- -- DAITOSOL 5000 SJ
3.5 4.0 3.5 SYNTRAN EX-100 7.58 8.0 7.5 Kaolin 3.0 2.5 2.5
TiO.sub.2 Glycerin dispersion 25.0 25.0 22.0 Red glycerin
dispersion 2.71 2.5 2.71 Black glycerin dispersion 0.4 0.3 0.4
Yellow glycerin dispersion 3.37 3.0 3.25 Mica 1.05 1.0 1.0 Fumed
silica talc -- 1.5 1.0 Isopentane 1.25 -- 1.25 N-Pentane/Isopentane
(1:1 -- 1.0 -- ratio) LIQUAPAR 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hydroyethyl cellulose
0.1 0.35 0.4
Non-Pressurized Systems
[0096] It should be noted that all of the alternative systems (the
Solubilization, Microemulsion and Two Part Systems), referred to
herein as the Non-Pressurized Systems, make use of a film forming
agent(s), colorant(s), and surfactant(s) in much the same way the
compositions requiring storage in a pressurized container.
[0097] I. Solubilization System
[0098] When the post-application expanding composition used in the
method of the present invention is based on solubilization of the
volatile agent it employs:
[0099] (1) an effective solubilizing amount, preferably about 0.5%
to about 35%, more preferably about 5% to about 20%, by weight,
based on the total weight of the post-application expanding
composition, of a primary solubilizing agent for the volatile
agent. The primary solubilizing agent is: [0100] (A) at least one
block polymer, preferably a block polymeric ether selected from the
group consisting of: [0101] (i) MEROXAPOL block polymer surfactants
having the general formula: ##STR1## [0102] wherein x has an
average value of 7 to 21, [0103] y has an average value of 4 to 16,
[0104] and z has an average value of 7 to 21, and x equals z.
[0105] Suitable MEROXAPOL block polymer surfactants include,
MEROXAPOL 105, 108, 171, 172, 174, 178, 251, 252, 254, 255, 258,
311, 312, and 314. (see The Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance
Association, International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and
Handbook, Vol. 2, 9.sup.th Edition, 2002, pp. 959-961.) Preferred
MEROXAPOL block polymers include the PLURONIC R series (available
from BASF); [0106] (ii) POLOXAMER block polymer surfactants having
the general formula: ##STR2## [0107] wherein x has an average value
of 2 to 128, [0108] y has an average value of 16 to 67, [0109] and
z has an average value of 2 to 128, and x equal z. [0110] Suitable
POLOXAMER block polymer surfactants include: POLOXAMER 101, 105,
108, 122, 123, 124, 181, 182, 183, 184, 185, 188, 212, 215, 217,
231, 234, 235, 237, 238, 282, 284, 288, 331, 333, 334, 335, 338,
401, 402, 403, 407, POLOXAMER 105 benzoate and POLOXAMER 182
dibenzoate. (see The Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association,
International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Vol. 2,
9.sup.th Edition, 2002, pp. 1270-1275.) Preferred POLOXAMER block
polymers include the PLURONIC L series (available from BASF);
[0111] and (iii) POLOXAMINE block polymer surfactants having the
general formula: ##STR3## [0112] wherein x is 4 to 32, [0113] and y
is 2 to 122. [0114] Suitable POLOXAMINE block polymers surfactants
include: POLOXAMINE 304, 504, 604, 701, 702, 704, 707, 901, 904,
908, 1101, 1102, 1104, 1301, 1302, 1304, 1307, 1501, 1502, 1504,
and 1508. (see The Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association,
International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Vol. 2,
9.sup.th Edition, 2002, pp. 1275-1279.) Preferred POLOXAMER block
polymers include the TETRONIC series (available from BASF); [0115]
(B) Polyvinyl alcohol; or a polyvinyl alcohol alternative selected
from the group consisting of: PEG-800/polyvinyl alcohol copolymer,
sodium MA/vinyl alcohol copolymer, acetylated polyvinyl alcohol,
vinylamine/vinyl alcohol copolymer, VPNA copolymer, polyvinyl
acetate and polyvinylacetal diethylaminoacetate. PEG-800/polyvinyl
alcohol copolymer, sodium MA/vinyl alcohol copolymer, acetylated
polyvinyl alcohol, vinylamine/vinyl alcohol copolymer and VPNA
copolymer are preferred polyvinyl alcohol alternatives; or [0116]
(C) a mixture of (A) and (B).
[0117] (2) 0% to 25%, preferably about 0.5% to about 20%, more
preferably about 0.75% to about 15%, most preferably about 1% to
about 10%, by weight, based on the total weight of the
post-application expanding composition, of a secondary solubilizer
for the volatile agent. The secondary solubilizing agent is
preferably an ammonium cocoyl isethionate selected from the group
consisting of sodium oleoyl ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium
myristoyl ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl ammonium
cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
ammonium cocoyl isethionate and mixtures thereof. Sodium cocoyl
ammonium cocoyl isethionate and ammonium cocoyl isethionate are
preferred.
[0118] (3) about 0% to about 20%, preferably about 0.1% to about
15%, more preferably about 1% to about 10%, most preferably about
2% to about 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the
post-application expanding composition, of an anionic surfactant,
preferably a salt of a C.sub.8 to C.sub.22 fatty acid, more
preferably a salt of a C.sub.10 to C.sub.18 fatty acid, and most
preferably a triethanolamine or alkali metal salt of palmitic acid
or stearic acid; the salt being employed as such, or generated in
situ in the post-application expanding composition by, for example,
the reaction of the fatty acid and triethanolamine.
[0119] The combination of surfactants is employed in an amount
sufficient to solubilize the volatile (blowing) agent component of
the post-application expanding composition in the composition,
thereby obviating the necessity for storing the composition in a
pressurized container;
[0120] (4) 0% to about 20%, preferably about 0.1% to about 15%,
more preferably about 1% to about 10%, most preferably about 2% to
about 5% of an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
Amphocarboxylates, alkyl betaines, amidoalkyl betaines, amidoalkyl
sultaines, amphophosphates, phosphobetaines, pyrophosphobetaines,
carboxyalkyl alkyl polyamines, alkyl amino mono acetates, alkyl
amino diacetates, and mixtures thereof can be employed. Betaine
surfactants are preferred. Cocamidopropyl betaine is most
preferred;
[0121] (5) about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably about 1% to about
10% by weight, based on the total weight of the post-application
expanding composition, of a volatile (blowing) agent. Suitable
volatile (blowing) agents include any organic volatile (halogenated
or non-halogenated) with a vapor pressure from about 0.5 Torr to
about 30,000 Torr at a temperature of about 0.degree. C. to about
100.degree. C. Examples of preferred organic volatile agents
include, but are not limited to, n-pentane, isopentane, n-butane,
isobutane, isobutene, neopentane, cyclopentane, hexane,
trichlorotrifluorethane, 1,2-dichloro, 1,1,2,2-tetrafluoroethane,
and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile (blowing) agent is
selected from the group consisting of n-pentane, isopentane,
n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, neopentane, cyclopentane, hexane,
and mixtures thereof;
[0122] (6) a film-forming agent in an amount effective to entrap at
least a portion of foam produced by interaction of the
surfactants(s), the solvent for the surfactant(s), and the volatile
(blowing) agent, which occurs when the volatile (blowing) agent is
released from the post-application expanding composition;
[0123] (7) 0% to about 5%, preferably about 0.5% to about 4%, more
preferably about 0.75% to about 3%, most preferably about 1% to
about 2%, by weight, based on the total weight of the
post-application expanding composition, of an emollient selected
from the group consisting of ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl
stearate, butylenes glycol stearate, C.sub.12-15 alkyl benzoate,
C.sub.12-13 alkyl lactate, caprylic/capric glycerides, castor/olive
oil esters, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, cetyl oleate, cocoglycerides,
cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethiconol, dimethicone PEG-7
isostearate, ethylhexyl isostearate, ethylhexyloxyglyceryl
palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, glyceryl palmitate, hydrogenated
polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isodecyl stearate,
isopropyl palmitate, lanolin, mineral oil, PEG-11 cocoa butter
glycerides, and mixtures thereof. Octylhydroxy stearate is most
preferred;
[0124] (8) optionally, a colorant, preferably a pigment, more
preferably a pigment dispersion, in an amount sufficient to impart
a color other than white to the skin. Liquid pigment dispersions
containing film-forming polymers are preferred. The most preferred
pigment dispersion is WSJ24BAMP. It is preferably used in an amount
of about 5% to about 50%, more preferably, about 10% to about 40%,
most preferably, about 20% to about 35%, by weight, based on the
total weight of the post-application expanding composition.
[0125] As used herein "an effective solubilizing amount" or "an
amount sufficient to solubilize" means an amount sufficient to
prevent any significant separation of the volatile agent from the
composition. Thus, for example, an effective solubilizing amount
will substantially prevent the formation of a separate layer of the
volatile agent. Typically, an effective solubilizing amount will be
from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably about 5% to about 10% by
weight, based on the total weight of the final composition. Higher
amounts can be employed but are likely to be economically
unfeasible.
[0126] It should be noted that a particularly preferred
Solubilization System employs a triblock copolymer surfactant and
polyvinyl alcohol or an ammonium cocoyl isethionate. A more
preferred Solubilization System employs a triblock copolymer
surfactant, an ammonium cocoyl isethionate, such as sodium or
ammonium cocoyl isethionate, and polyvinyl alcohol.
[0127] Examples 15 through 18, which follow, illustrate
post-application expanding compositions that employ solubilizing
agent(s) for the blowing agent to generate the post-foaming action
and not requiring packaging in a pressurized container.
[0128] The compositions of Examples 15 to 19 are prepared according
to the following general procedure:
EXAMPLE 15
[0129] TABLE-US-00005 Lipstick Phase Ingredient wt. % A Deionized
water (DM) 38.0 A Sodium carboxymethylcellulose 0.75 A Polyvinyl
alcohol 10.0 A Triethanolamine (TEA) 1.5 B Oleth-3-phosphate 0.5 B
Isoceteth-20 0.5 B Ethylhexyl hydroxyl stearate 1.25 B Palmitic
acid 3.0 C ALLIANZ OPT 10.0 C SYNTRAN EX-100 5.0 D WSJ24BAMP 2.0 D
WSJ22 RAMP 10.0 D WSJ30 AMPC 2.5 D WSJ20 YAMP 3.5 E LIQUAPAR 0.5 F
PLURONIC L-43 block polymer 5.0 F Ammonium cocoyl isethionate 3.0 F
Isopentane/Pentane (1:1) 3.0 (a) sprinkle the sodium
carboxymethylcellulose into the water under medium/slow (400-600
rpm) tripleL blade mix. Allow the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose to
fully disperse with no clumps; (b) add the polyvinyl alcohol slowly
and allow adequate time for its dispersal; (c) add the
triethanolamine and cover and heat phase A to 75.degree. C.; (d) at
75.degree. C., add phase B ingredients allowing about 3-5 minutes
between each addition so as to permit each ingredient to fully
mix/disperse before adding the next; (e) mix the combined phases A
and B at 75.degree. C. for about 10 minutes; (f) discontinue
heating and cool to about 55.degree. C., replace the propeller with
a waffle iron sweep and continue to sweep at 80 to 100 rpm; (g) at
55.degree. C., slowly add phase C directly into the batch and mix
for five minutes; (h) cool to about 45.degree. C., add phase D
slowly under sweep mixing. Use a spatula to scrape the sides of the
vessel and ensure a thorough mix; (i) at about 30.degree. C., add
phase E under sweep mixing; (j) continue the sweep mixing and
cooling until the composition reaches approximately 2.degree. C. to
about 5.degree. C.; (k) prepare phase E separately from the main
composition and under cold conditions (approximately 2.degree. C.
to about 5.degree. C.) (It should be noted that the processing
temperature depends on the volatile agent used. With a more stable
volatile agent a higher temperature can be employed); (l) chill the
block polymer and place it in a cold jacketed vessel, add the
chilled volatile agent(s) and mix for about 10 minutes; (m) slowly
drizzle the ammonium cocoyl isethionate into the pentane/block
polymer mix and continue mixing for about 5 minutes; (n) using a
large homogenizer, slowly add chilled phase E to the main batch
(phases A, B, C, and D) and mix until phase E is fully dispersed;
then charge the resultant mixture into a suitable vessel.
EXAMPLES 16-19
[0130] TABLE-US-00006 Plumping Lipstick Formulations
(Non-Pressurized) Ingredients Ex. 16 Ex. 17 Ex. 18 Ex. 19 Distilled
water 26.76 31.71 37.71 32.51 Oleth-3 phosphate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Isoceteth-20 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethylhexyl hydroxyl stearate 1.75 1.75
1.75 1.75 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Palmitic acid 3.0
3.0 2.0 3.0 Stearic acid -- -- 0.5 -- Triethanolamine 99% 1.0 1.0
1.1 1.0 SYNTRAN EX-100 13.0 -- -- -- ALLIANZE OPT 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
Polyvinyl alcohol -- 10 10 10 PLURONIC block polymer L-61 -- -- 5.0
5.0 PLURONIC block polymer 31R1 5.0 5.0 -- -- Ammonium cocoyl
isethionate 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Ployurethane (epq30 JP) -- 1.0 1.0 1.0
WSJ24 BAMP 2.02 2.02 2.02 2.02 WSJ22 RAMP 11.43 11.43 11.43 11.43
WSJ30 AMPC 2.91 2.91 2.91 2.91 WSJ20 YAMP 3.63 3.63 3.63 3.63 Fumed
silica talc 1.0 -- -- -- BRIGHT RED (pearl) 7.0 -- 5.0 5.0 DAZZLING
SILVER (pearl) 8.0 -- 5.0 5.0 CLOISONNE SATIN ROUGE -- -- -- --
Isopentane 3.0 -- -- -- N-Pentane/Isopentane (1:1 ratio) -- 3.0 --
-- Cyclopentane -- -- -- 5.0 LIQUAPAR 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sodium
carboxyethyl cellulose 0.5 0.5 0.75 0.75
[0131] II. Microemulsion System
[0132] The following Examples 20-22 serve to illustrate
microemulsion based compositions utilizable in the method of the
present invention:
EXAMPLES 20-22
[0133] TABLE-US-00007 Ex. 20 Ex. 21 Ex. 22 Ingredient wt. % wt. %
wt. % Propylene glycol 2.0 5.0 5.0 Cyclomethicone 15.0 -- --
Isododecane -- 5.0 -- Oleth-3 phosphate -- -- 5.0 Oleth-10 -- --
2.0 Palmitic acid -- 2.5 1.5 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 4.5 5.0 1.0
Triethanolamine 99% -- 1.0 0.5 PPG-10 cetyl ether 5.0 -- --
propylene glycol PPG-5 ceteth-20 16.0 -- -- Sodium lauryl ether
sulfate-2EO -- 10.0 -- Isostearyl benzoate 10.0 -- -- Light mineral
oil -- -- 10.0 PVP 1.0 -- 2.0 DAITOSOL 5000 SJ 5.0 10.0 5.0 SYNTRAN
EX-100 -- -- -- Iron oxide black (fine, treated) 1.0 1.0 1.0 Iron
oxide Red (fine, treated) 5.0 4.0 4.0 Iron oxide yellow (fine,
treated) 1.0 1.0 1.0 Iron oxide brown (fine, treated) 1.0 2.0 2.0
Isopentane -- 6.0 -- Cyclopentane 10.0 -- --
Cyclopentane/Isopentane (1:1 -- -- 10.0 ratio) Methylparaben 0.3
0.3 0.3 GERMALL 0.2 0.2 0.2 Sodium carboxymethyl 0.25 0.2 0.5
cellulose Distilled water 22.75 46.8 49.0
[0134] III. Two Part System
[0135] In this embodiment, the volatile (blowing) agent, carbon
dioxide, is generated in situ by the facile reaction of a
cosmetically acceptable acid with a base, in the presence of water.
The carbonic acid that is produced is unstable in water and at room
temperature breaks down into water and carbon dioxide gas. The
carbon dioxide foams (swells or expands) the composition.
[0136] Suitable acids include, but are not limited to, citric acid,
boric acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, malic acid, formic acid,
glycolic acid, polyacrylic acid, polyaspartic acid and mixtures
thereof. Microporous silica or a buffered mineral acid (such as
hydrochloric acid or phosphoric acid) having a pH of 5 or less can
also be employed. Citric acid is preferred.
[0137] Suitable bases include, but are not limited to, (i)
inorganic carbonates and bicarbonates, for example, ammonium,
alkali metal and alkaline earth metal carbonates and bicarbonates,
and (ii) organic carbonates, such as diethyl carbonate, propylene
carbonate and dipropyl carbonate. Magnesium carbonate, calcium
carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, diethyl carbonate,
propylene carbonate and dipropyl carbonate are preferred. Sodium
and potassium bicarbonate are most preferred.
[0138] When a polyacrylic acid is employed as the acid reaction
component the expansion caused by the release of carbon dioxide can
be controlled by (i) increasing the pH, which serves to thicken the
polymer film and/or by (ii) increasing the amount of water in the
composition, which serves to retard the reaction.
[0139] A preferred embodiment for employing in situ generated
carbon dioxide utilizes a two part composition. Each part is
packaged in different chambers of a single two chambered container
or the two parts are packaged in separate containers.
[0140] For example, citric acid is dispersed in an anhydrous first
composition which is applied to, for example, the face.
Simultaneously, or shortly thereafter, a second composition
comprising a cosmetically acceptable base, such as sodium
bicarbonate, is applied to the face and mixed with the first
composition whereupon carbon dioxide evolves and the
post-application expanding composition is produced. The carbon
dioxide foams (swells or expands) the surfactant and solvent for
the surfactant components of the post-application expanding
composition. The film-forming agent component of the composition
thereafter sets and entraps at least a portion of the produced foam
so as to fix the composition in an expanded state.
[0141] Alternatively, anhydrous sodium bicarbonate and anhydrous
acid are dispersed in an anhydrous first composition which is mixed
on the face with an aqueous second composition containing the
surfactant The surfactant facilitates mixing and the carbon dioxide
that is produced acts to foam the surfactant and solvent for the
surfactant. When the film-forming agent component, preferably
present in the aqueous solution, sets it entraps at least a portion
of the produced foam lattice and fixes the post-application
expanding composition in an expanded state.
[0142] In a preferred embodiment a first part of the
post-application expanding composition, containing the carbonate or
bicarbonate and the acid dissolved or dispersed in anhydrous
polyethylene glycol is stored in one compartment of a dual
compartment container. A second part of the post-application
expanding composition, containing the formulation amount of water,
is stored in the other compartment.
[0143] Alternatively, one part is stored in a first container and
the other part is stored in a second container. The surfactant(s)
and film-forming agent can be components of the aqueous part of the
composition.
[0144] The acid and base can be dispersed in an anhydrous
water-miscible vehicle or the acid can be contained in the
anhydrous water-miscible vehicle and the base contained in the
aqueous part of the composition. The reverse (the acid in the
aqueous part and the base in the anhydrous part) can lead to
potential eye irritation, color instability and a change in
viscosity.
[0145] Anhydrous polyethylene glycol is highly preferred as a
vehicle for the carbonate or bicarbonate and the acid reactants.
Its hygroscopicity promotes speedy in-situ production of carbon
dioxide when the aqueous part of the composition is mixed with the
anhydrous acid/base containing part of the composition. A mixture
of polyethylene glycols of varying molecular weight can be employed
for control of formulation viscosity. Although anhydrous,
polyethylene glycol is preferred, any viscous anhydrous
cosmetically acceptable solvent that is readily miscible with water
and in which the anhydrous acid and base can be suspended without
co-reacting, can be employed. Sorbitol and glycerin are additional
examples of such solvents.
[0146] It should be noted that as an alternative to separating the
acid and base reactants in separate compartments, one can
encapsulate the base so as to physically separate it from the other
reactant.
[0147] Stoichiometric amounts of the acid and base (carbonate or
bicarbonate) reactants should be employed. The co-reactants should
be employed in amounts such that, when reacted, sufficient carbon
dioxide is produced to interact with the surfactant(s) and solvent
for the surfactant(s) to produce sufficient foam lattice and
expansion before the film forming agent sets.
[0148] The following Examples 23-24 serve to illustrate two part
system base skin care compositions utilizable in the method of the
present invention:
EXAMPLE 23
[0149] TABLE-US-00008 Ingredient wt. % Part A PVP 2.0 Cellulose Gum
(2000 CPS) 0.4 Glyceryl stearate 10.0 Propylene glycol
dicaprylate/dicaprate 8.0 Cetearyl alcohol and sodium ceteryl
sulfate 6.1 Methylparaben 0.4 Triethanolamine 99% 1.6
Pentaerythritol tetrastearate 1.0 Stearic acid 5.0
Isooctahexacontane 2.5 Glyceryl monostearate-self emulsifying 2.0
Propylparaben 0.2 Acrylates copolymer/Isododecane 0.1
Isododecane/gellants/BHT 2.5 Acrylates copolymer -30% aqueous 1.5
Soybean Oil 0.1 Demineralized water 56.6 Part B Isododecane and
ethylene/propylene/styrene 69.0 copolymer and
butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer Potassium bicarbonate/citric
acid, powdered 30.0 (18.4/11.6) PEG-80 Sorbitan laurate/cocamide
surfactant 1.0
[0150] For Part A, the cellulose gum is slowly dispersed in the
water while vigorously stirring. The temperature is increased to
75.degree. C. The remainder of the ingredients are blended in (with
the triethanolamine added last) until the pH is measured as
neutral. The batch is then slowly cooled to room temperature.
[0151] The Part B ingredients are mixed at room temperature until
the powdered potassium bicarbonate/citric acid mixture and
surfactant are thoroughly dispersed in the isododecane and
ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer and butylene/ethylene/styrene
copolymer.
EXAMPLE 24
[0152] TABLE-US-00009 Ingredient wt. % Part A PVM/MA copolymer 1.0
Methylparaben 0.4 Imidazolidinyl urea 0.2 PVP/VA copolymer -50%
aqueous 30.0 Propylene glycol 4.0 Glycerin 1.0 Alcohol SD 40B 5.0
PEG-80 Sorbitan laurate/cocamide 1.0 Acrylates copolymer/butylene
glycol 10.0 Demineralized water 47.4 Part B PEG-400 69.0 Potassium
bicarbonate/citric acid, powdered 30.0 (18.4/11.6) PEG-80 Sorbitan
laurate/cocamide surfactant 1.0
[0153] For Part A, the ingredients are blended in the water at
45.degree. C. The batch is then slowly cooled to room temperature.
The Part B ingredients are mixed at room temperature until the
powdered potassium bicarbonate/citric acid mixture and surfactant
are thoroughly dispersed in the PEG-400.
[0154] Although not wishing to be bound thereby the present
inventors theorize that the present invention may work in the
following manner. When the composition of the present invention is
applied to the lips or face, the film forming agent component of
the composition begins to cure. The composition begins to generate
foam causing the film, which is at that point fairly elastic, to
expand. The film then sets up and though it is sufficiently rigid
to trap the foam contained within it, it remains sufficiently
elastic to allow subsequent flex of the skin upon which the
composition is applied. The foamed material entrapped by the
sufficiently elastic film acts to impart fullness to the lips and a
leveling and/or masking effect on skin.
[0155] The post-application expanding composition may be packaged
in many types of commercially available containers, including
collapsible metal tubes and barrier-type aerosol dispensers. If an
aerosol dispenser is employed, it is preferred that the
post-application expanding composition be maintained in the
container separate from the propellant by means of a bag, diaphragm
or piston inside the container. This propellant is not to be
confused with the volatile (blowing) agent that is a component of
the composition. If a diaphragm or piston is employed, it can be
driven by propellant or mechanical force, such as a spring.
[0156] Compositions according to the present invention may be
packaged in, for example, the packaging systems described in U.S.
Pat. Nos. 2,995,521; 3,541,581; 3,654,167; 4,405,489; 4,528,111;
4,651,503; 6,165,456 and US Patent Application Publication US
2002/0122772 A1.
[0157] Compositions based on non-pressurized systems may be
packaged in a closed, preferably sealed container.
[0158] It should be understood that the foregoing description is
only illustrative of some embodiments of the present invention.
Various alternatives and modifications can be devised by those
skilled in the art without departing from the invention.
Accordingly, the present invention is intended to embrace all such
alternatives, modifications and variances that fall within the
scope of the appended claims.
* * * * *