U.S. patent application number 11/267767 was filed with the patent office on 2006-03-30 for controlled air permeability composite fabric articles having enhanced surface durability.
Invention is credited to Charles Haryslak, Douglas Lumb, Moshe Rock, Gadalia Vainer.
Application Number | 20060068155 11/267767 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 36099521 |
Filed Date | 2006-03-30 |
United States Patent
Application |
20060068155 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Rock; Moshe ; et
al. |
March 30, 2006 |
Controlled air permeability composite fabric articles having
enhanced surface durability
Abstract
A fabric article of knitted or woven construction with
multi-filament, interlaced yarns has at least one pile or raised or
fleece region on its inner surface and at least one discontinuous
coating region of binder material on its outer surface. The binder
material provides improved durability against pilling and fraying
without substantial adverse effect on characteristics of the base
fabric. The same or different binders and/or the same or different
densities of binders may be applied to one or more selected regions
of the fabric surface using engineered printing technology, the
binder regions resisting napping to create predetermined non-raised
or non-fleece regions of contrasting thermal insulation and/or
breatheability conforming to needs of underlying corresponding
regions of the wearer's body. Methods of forming the fabric
articles are also described.
Inventors: |
Rock; Moshe; (Brookline,
MA) ; Lumb; Douglas; (Atkinson, NH) ;
Haryslak; Charles; (Marlborough, MA) ; Vainer;
Gadalia; (Melrose, MA) |
Correspondence
Address: |
FISH & RICHARDSON PC
P.O. BOX 1022
MINNEAPOLIS
MN
55440-1022
US
|
Family ID: |
36099521 |
Appl. No.: |
11/267767 |
Filed: |
November 4, 2005 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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10911855 |
Aug 5, 2004 |
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11267767 |
Nov 4, 2005 |
|
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60493275 |
Aug 7, 2003 |
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60626027 |
Nov 8, 2004 |
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60674535 |
Apr 25, 2005 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
428/85 ; 428/95;
442/304 |
Current CPC
Class: |
Y10T 428/23979 20150401;
A41D 31/00 20130101; D04B 1/00 20130101; Y10T 442/40 20150401 |
Class at
Publication: |
428/085 ;
442/304; 428/095 |
International
Class: |
D04H 11/00 20060101
D04H011/00; D03D 27/00 20060101 D03D027/00; D04B 21/00 20060101
D04B021/00 |
Claims
1. A fabric article of knitted or woven construction of
multi-filament, interlaced yarns, the fabric article having an
inner surface and an outer surface, the inner surface having at
least one region of pile or raised fibers or fleece formed
thereupon, and the outer surface having at least one region of a
non-continuous coating of binder material adhered to yarns and to
yarn fibers, for durability of the outer surface against pilling or
fraying during use.
2. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the non-continuous
coating of binder material is adhered to yarns and to yarn fibers
at least at interlacing intersections.
3. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the fabric article has
construction selected from the group consisting of plaited circular
knit construction, reverse plaited circular knit construction,
woven construction, and warp knit construction.
4. The fabric article of claim 1 in the form of an article of
wearing apparel.
5. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the multi-filament yarns
are textured.
6. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the multi-filament yarns
are flat.
7. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the multi-filament yarns
comprises fibers formed of materials selected from the group
consisting of: polyester, nylon and polypropylene.
8. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the multi-filament yarns
comprises spun yarns formed of materials selected from the group
consisting of: natural fibers, synthetic fibers, and blends
thereof.
9. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the multi-filament yarns
of the outer surface comprise spandex.
10. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein fibers of the
multi-filament yarns are highly intermingled at over at least about
10 tucks per meter.
11. The fabric article of claim 10, wherein fibers of the
multi-filament yarns are highly intermingled at over about 60 tucks
per meter.
12. The fabric article of claim 11, wherein fibers of the
multi-filament yarns are highly intermingled at over about 100
tucks per meter.
13. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein fibers of the
multi-filament yarns have little or no intermingling.
14. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the binder material
adheres to yarn fibers in a manner to substantially avoid
restriction of air permeability through the fabric article.
15. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the binder material
comprises a film extending into interstitial air passageways
through the fabric article in a manner to reduce air
permeability.
16. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the at least one region
of a non-continuous coating of binder material is without
substantial adverse effect on drapability and hand of the fabric
article.
17. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the at least one region
of a non-continuous coating of binder upon the outer surface of the
fabric article comprises one or more first regions of enhanced
surface durability due to relatively greater density of binder or
binder dots per unit area applied by engineered pattern printing
technology to a fabric web.
18. The fabric article of claim 17, wherein said one or more first
regions comprises at least shoulder regions or elbow regions.
19. The fabric article of claim 1 or claim 17, wherein the outer
surface of the fabric article further comprises one or more second
regions of relatively lesser surface durability due to relatively
lesser density of binder or binder dots per unit area applied by
engineered pattern printing technology to a fabric web.
20. The fabric article of claim 19, wherein said one or more second
regions comprises at least body regions.
21. The fabric article of claim 19, wherein one or more of the
second other regions of relatively lesser surface durability have
no or only negligible density of binder or binder dots per unit
area.
22. The fabric article of claim 21, wherein one or more of the
second other regions of the outer surface comprises regions of pile
or raised fibers or fleece and one or more of the first regions of
the outer surface remains non-raised or smooth face.
23. The fabric article of claim 22, wherein said one or more second
other regions comprises at least body regions of the fabric
article.
24. The fabric article of claim 1 or claim 17, wherein the at least
one region of a non-continuous coating of binder upon the outer
surface of the fabric article comprises one or more first regions
of enhanced surface durability due to relatively greater durability
of a first binder material applied by engineered pattern printing
technology to a fabric web.
25. The fabric article of claim 24, wherein said one or more first
regions comprises at least shoulder regions or elbow regions.
26. The fabric article of claim 1, wherein the outer surface of the
fabric article further comprises one or more second regions of
relatively lesser surface durability due to relatively lesser
durability of a second binder material applied by engineered
pattern printing technology to a fabric web.
27. The fabric article of claim 26, wherein said one or more second
regions comprises at least body regions.
28. The fabric article of claim 26, wherein one or more of the
second other regions of relatively lesser surface durability have
no or only negligible density of binder material per unit area.
29. The fabric article of claim 28, wherein one or more of the
second other regions of the outer surface comprises regions of pile
or raised fibers or fleece and one or more of the first regions of
the outer surface remains non-raised or smooth face.
30. The fabric article of claim 29, wherein said one or more second
other regions comprises at least body regions of the fabric
article.
31. The fabric article of claim 24, wherein the outer surface of
the fabric article further comprises one or more second regions of
relatively lesser surface durability due to relatively lesser
durability of a second binder material applied by engineered
pattern printing technology to a fabric web.
32. The fabric article of claim 31, wherein said one or more second
regions comprises at least body regions.
33. The fabric article of claim 31, wherein one or more of the
second other regions of relatively lesser surface durability have
no or only negligible density of binder material per unit area.
34. The fabric article of claim 33, wherein one or more of the
second other regions of the outer surface comprises regions of pile
or raised fibers or fleece and one or more of the first regions of
the outer surface remains non-raised or smooth face.
35. The fabric article of claim 34, wherein said one or more second
other regions comprises at least body regions of the fabric
article.
36. A method of forming a fabric article, said method comprising
the steps of: interlacing yarns comprising multi-filament fibers to
form a fabric body of knit or woven construction, forming one or
more raised or fleece regions upon an inner surface of the fabric
body; and, thereafter, applying binder material to one or more
regions of an outer surface of the fabric article to form a
discontinuous coating of binder material upon yarn fibers on at
least the outer surface of the fabric article, to resist pilling
and fraying of yarn fibers at the outer surface.
37. The method of claim 36, wherein applying binder material to one
or more regions of an outer surface of the fabric article forms a
discontinuous coating of binder material upon yarn fibers at least
at interlacing intersections.
38. The method of claim 36, wherein applying binder material
comprises applying binder material by standard printing
technology.
39. The method of claim 38, wherein the standard printing
technology is selected from the group consisting of: printing by
rotary screen roll, printing by gravure roll, and printing by ink
jet printing.
40. The method of claim 36, wherein applying binder material
comprises applying the binder material with a kiss roll.
41. The method of claim 36, further comprising removing binder
material in liquid state from interstitial spaces of the fabric
body in a manner to control reduction of air permeability.
42. The method of claim 41, wherein removing binder material
comprises blowing air through the interstitial spaces.
43. The method of claim 41, wherein removing binder material
comprises drawing air by suction through the interstitial
spaces.
44. The method of claim 36, wherein applying binder material
comprises applying one or more binder materials in one or more
forms selected from the group consisting of: resin, latex, polymer
emulsion, polymer dispersion, and plastisol system.
45. The method of claim 36, wherein the binder material is selected
from the group consisting of: melamine, acrylate, polyurethane,
silicon, poly vinyl chloride, epoxy and blends thereof.
46. The method of claim 36, wherein applying binder material to one
or more regions of an outer surface comprises the steps of:
applying first binder material to one or more regions by screen
printing techniques in a first pattern, and applying second binder
material the same or different from the first binder material to
one or more regions by screen-printing techniques in a second
pattern not overprinting the first pattern.
47. The method of claim 36, wherein applying binder material
comprises applying binder material in a liquid carrier and allowing
the liquid carrier to evaporate leaving the binder material.
48. The method of claim 36, wherein applying binder material
comprises applying binder material in a foam liquid carrier and
allowing the foam carrier to collapse leaving the binder
material.
49. The method of claim 36, wherein the fabric article is formed of
a knit construction with a technical face defining the outer
surface and a technical back defining the inner surface, and the
method comprises raising the technical back and thereafter applying
the binder material to the technical face.
50. The method of claim 36, wherein applying binder material
comprises applying binder material by engineered pattern-printing
technology to a fabric web.
51. The method of claim 50, wherein applying binder material by
engineered pattern printing technology to a fabric web comprises
the steps of: forming one or more first regions of enhanced surface
durability by applying a first pattern of a binder material with
relatively greater density of binder or binder dots per unit area,
and forming one or more second other regions of relatively lesser
surface durability by applying a second pattern of a binder
material with relatively lesser density of binder or binder dots
per unit area.
52. The method of claim 46, claim 50 or claim 51, wherein applying
binder material by engineered pattern printing technology to a
fabric web comprises: forming one or more first regions of enhanced
surface durability by applying first binder material, and forming
one or more second other regions of relatively lesser surface
durability by applying second binder material.
53. The method of claim 52, wherein forming one or more first
regions of enhanced surface durability comprises applying the first
pattern with relatively greater density of binder or binder dots
per unit area at least upon one or more regions selected from the
group consisting of: shoulder regions and elbow regions.
54. The method of claim 52, wherein forming one or more second
other regions of relatively lesser surface durability comprises
applying the second pattern with relatively lesser density of
binder or binder dots per unit area at least upon body regions.
55. The method of claim 50, wherein applying binder material by
engineered printing technology to a fabric web comprises the steps
of: forming one or more first regions of enhanced surface
durability by applying a first pattern with relatively greater
density of binder or binder dots per unit area, and forming one or
more second other regions of relatively lesser surface durability
by applying no or only negligible density of binder or binder dots
per unit area.
56. The method of claim 55, wherein forming one or more first
regions of enhanced surface durability comprises applying the first
pattern with relatively greater density of binder or binder dots
per unit area at least upon one or more regions selected from the
group consisting of shoulder regions and elbow regions.
57. The method of claim 55 or claim 56 wherein forming one or more
second other regions of relatively lesser surface durability
comprises forming second other regions at least upon body
regions.
58. The method of claim 55, comprising a further step performed
after applying binder to the one or more first regions of enhanced
surface durability, the further step comprising raising or napping
the one or more second regions bearing little or only negligible
density of binder or binder dots per unit area to form fleece or
velour.
59. The method of claim 36, comprising, prior to forming a raised
or fleece region upon an inner surface of the fabric body, applying
binder material to one or more predetermined regions of the inner
surface by engineered printing technology, and generating, upon the
inner surface of the fabric body, an engineered three-dimensional
pattern of raised or fleece regions and non-raised or non-fleece
regions designed to meet predetermined thermal insulation and/or
breatheability at predetermined regions by forming one or more
raised or fleece regions upon the inner surface of the fabric body
while the one or more regions to which binder material is applied
resist raising or fleecing.
60. The method of claim 59, comprising a further step of forming
the fabric body by plaited knit construction.
61. The method of claim 60, wherein the fabric body is circular
knit with terry sinker loop.
62. The method of claim 36, wherein applying binder material to one
or more regions of an inner surface of the fabric body is
synchronized with wet printing in other regions.
63. A method of forming a fabric article, said method comprising
the steps of: interlacing yarns comprising multi-filament fibers to
form a fabric body of knit or woven construction, forming one or
more raised or fleece regions upon an outer surface of the fabric
body, applying binder material to one or more regions of an inner
surface of the fabric body to form a discontinuous coating of
binder material upon yarns fibers on at least the inner surface of
the fabric body, and generating, upon the inner surface of the
fabric body, an engineered three-dimensional pattern of raised or
fleece regions and non-raised or non-fleece regions designed to
meet predetermined thermal insulation and/or breatheability at
predetermined regions by forming one or more raised or fleece
regions upon the inner surface of the fabric body while the one or
more regions to which binder material is applied resist raising or
fleecing.
64. The method of claim 63, wherein applying binder material to one
or more regions of an inner surface of the fabric body forms a
discontinuous coating of binder material upon yarns fibers at least
at interlacing intersections.
65. The method of claim 63, further comprising the steps of:
applying binder material to the inner surface of the fabric body in
a manner to cause the binder material to penetrate to the outer
surface of the fabric body, and generating, upon the outer surface
of the fabric body, an engineered three-dimensional pattern of
raised or fleece regions and non-raised or non-fleece regions
designed to meet predetermined thermal insulation and/or
breatheability at predetermined regions by forming one or more
raised or fleece regions upon the outer surface of the fabric body
while the one or more regions to which binder material is applied
resist raising or fleecing.
66. The method of claim 65, further comprising the step of:
generating, upon the inner surface of the fabric body, an
engineered three-dimensional pattern of raised or fleece regions
and non-raised or non-fleece regions designed to meet predetermined
thermal insulation and/or breatheability at predetermined regions
by forming one or more raised or fleece regions upon the inner
surface of the fabric body while the one or more regions to which
binder material is applied resist raising or fleecing, one or more
raised or fleece regions of the inner surface of the fabric body
being in registration with one or more raised or fleece regions of
the outer surface of the fabric body.
67. The method of claim 63 or claim 65, comprising the further step
of forming the fabric body by reverse plaited knit
construction.
68. The method of claim 67, wherein the fabric body is circular
knit with terry sinker loop.
69. The method of claim 63, wherein applying binder material to one
or more regions of an inner surface of the fabric body is
synchronized with wet printing in other regions.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] This application is a continuation-in-part of U.S.
application Ser. No. 10/911,855, filed Aug. 5, 2004, now pending,
which claims benefit from U.S. Provisional Application No.
60/493,275, filed Aug. 7, 2003, now expired. This application also
claims benefit from U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/626,027,
filed Nov. 8, 2004, now pending, and from U.S. Provisional
Application No. 60/674,535, filed Apr. 25, 2005, now pending.
[0002] This document relates to composite fabric articles.
BACKGROUND
[0003] Fabric articles, such as jackets and other outer wear, with
qualities desired for use during exercise or exertion, especially
warmth and breatheability, may be formed, e.g., by circular knit
plaited construction or circular knit reverse plaited construction
with a relatively smooth outer surface (the "technical face") and
an inner surface (the "technical back") that can be raised, e.g. by
processes such as napping, brushing, sanding, etc., to form an
insulating layer of fleece. Unfortunately, in both knit
constructions, the durability of the smooth technical face is
inferior to many woven constructions, limiting use of the knit
constructions in articles intended for harsher outdoor sports. In
particular, the fuzziness of the smooth technical face will often
have an inferior aesthetic look, as well as poor technical
features. The smooth face also tends to fuzz out as the surface
picks up snow, which it will not shed easily, to fuzz out during
rock climbing, and to fuzz out in specific areas of a garment, e.g.
at the elbows or at the shoulders, under the straps of a
backpack.
[0004] Composite fabric articles are achieved by joining at least
one material to a fabric body to attain desirable properties that
cannot be attained by the fabric body alone. Laminar composites,
e.g. having multiple layers joined by an adhesive, are sometimes
employed to increase the thermal resistance of a fabric body.
However, the feel (e.g., drapability, hand tactile, etc.) of a
fabric is often substantially decreased by laminating one or more
additional layers of material to the fabric body.
SUMMARY
[0005] According to one aspect, a fabric article with knitted or
woven construction of multi-filament, interlaced yarns has an inner
surface and an outer surface. The inner surface has at least one
region of pile or raised fibers or fleece formed thereupon and the
outer surface has at least one region of a non-continuous coating
of binder material adhered to yarns and to yarn fibers, e.g. at
least at interlacing intersections, for enhanced durability of the
outer surface against pilling or fraying during use.
[0006] Preferred implementations of this aspect may include one or
more of the following additional features. The fabric article has
construction selected from the group consisting of a plaited
circular knit construction, reverse plaited circular knit
construction, woven construction, and warp knit construction. The
fabric article is an article of wearing apparel. The multi-filament
yarns are textured or flat. The multi-filament yarns comprise
fibers formed of materials selected from the group consisting of:
polyester, nylon and polypropylene. The multi-filament yarns
comprise spun yarns formed of materials selected from the group
consisting of: natural fibers, synthetic fibers, and blends
thereof. The multi-filament yarns of the outer surface comprise
spandex. Fibers of the multi-filament yarns are highly intermingled
at over at least about 10 tucks per meter (TPM), preferably at over
about 60 TPM, and more preferably at over about 100 TPM, or more,
or there may be little or no intermingling. The binder material
adheres to yarn fibers in a manner to substantially avoid
restriction of air permeability through the fabric article.
Alternatively, the binder material comprises a film extending into
interstitial air passageways through the fabric article in a manner
to reduce air permeability. The region of non-continuous coating of
binder material is without substantial adverse effect on
drapability and hand of the fabric article. The region of
non-continuous coating comprises one or more first regions of
enhanced surface durability due to relatively greater density of
binder or binder dots per unit area, and/or due to relatively
greater durability of a first binder material, applied by
engineered pattern printing technology to a fabric web. Preferably
the one or more first regions comprises at least shoulder or elbow
regions. The outer surface of the fabric article further comprises
one or more second regions of relatively lesser surface durability
due to relatively lesser density, including no or negligible
density, of binder or binder dots per unit area, and/or due to
relatively lesser durability of a second binder material, applied
by engineered pattern printing technology to a fabric web.
Preferably, the one or more second regions comprises at least body
regions. One or more of the second other regions of relatively
lesser surface durability have no or only negligible density of
second binder material per unit area. Preferably, one or more of
the second other regions of the outer surface comprises regions of
pile or raised fibers or fleece and one or more of the first
regions of the outer surface remains non-raised or smooth face.
More preferably, the one or more second other regions comprises at
least body regions of the fabric article.
[0007] According to another aspect, a method of forming a fabric
article comprises the steps of: interlacing yarns comprising
multi-filament fibers to form a fabric body of knit or woven
construction, forming one or more raised or fleece regions upon an
inner surface of the fabric body; and, thereafter, applying binder
material to one or more regions of the outer surface of the fabric
article to form a discontinuous coating of binder material upon
yarn fibers, e.g. at least at interlacing intersections, on at
least the outer surface of the fabric article, to resist pilling
and fraying of yarn fibers at the outer surface.
[0008] Preferred implementations of this aspect may include one or
more of the following additional features. The step of applying
binder material comprises applying binder material by standard
printing technology, e.g., selected from the group consisting of:
rotary screen roll printing, gravure roll printing, and ink jet
printing. The step of applying binder material comprises applying
the binder material with a kiss roll. The method further comprises
removing binder material in liquid state from interstitial spaces
of the fabric body in a manner to control reduction of air
permeability. The step of removing binder material comprises
blowing air through the interstitial spaces or drawing air by
suction through the interstitial spaces. The step of applying
binder material comprises applying one or more binder materials in
one or more forms selected from the group consisting of: resin,
latex, polymer emulsion, polymer dispersion, and plastisol system.
Preferably, the binder material is selected from the group
consisting of: melamine, acrylate, polyurethane, silicon, poly
vinyl chloride, epoxy, and blends thereof. The step of applying
binder material to one or more regions of an outer surface
comprises the steps of: applying first binder material to one or
more regions by screen printing techniques in a first pattern, and
applying second binder material different from the first binder
material to one or more regions by screen printing techniques in a
second pattern not overprinting the first pattern. The step of
applying binder material comprises applying binder material in a
liquid carrier and allowing the liquid carrier to evaporate leaving
the binder material or applying binder material in a foam liquid
carrier and allowing the foam carrier to collapse leaving the
binder material. The step of applying binder material comprises
applying binder material by engineered pattern printing technology
to a fabric web. Preferably, binder material is applied by
engineered pattern printing techniques to form one or more first
regions of enhanced surface durability by applying a first pattern
of binder material with relatively greater density of binder or
binder dots per unit area, e.g. to shoulder regions and/or to elbow
regions, and to form one or more second other regions of relatively
lesser surface durability by applying a second pattern of binder
material with relatively lesser density of binder or binder dots
per unit area, e.g. to body regions. The step of applying binder
material by engineered printing technology to a fabric web
comprises the steps of: forming one or more first regions of
enhanced surface durability by applying a first pattern with
relatively greater density of binder or binder dots per unit area,
and forming one or more second other regions of relatively lesser
surface durability by applying no or only negligible density of
binder or binder dots per unit area. The step of forming one or
more first regions of enhanced surface durability comprises
applying the first pattern of binder material to each first region,
the binder material and/or the pattern being the same or different
from region to region, with relatively greater density of binder or
binder dots per unit area upon, e.g., shoulder regions and/or elbow
regions. The step of forming one or more second other regions of
relatively lesser surface durability comprises forming second other
regions upon, e.g., body regions. The method comprises a further
step performed after applying binder to the one or more first
regions of enhanced surface durability, the further step comprising
raising or napping the one or more second regions bearing little or
only negligible density of binder or binder dots per unit area to
form fleece or velour. The method comprises the steps of, prior to
forming a raised or fleece region upon an inner surface of the
fabric body, applying binder material to one or more predetermined
regions of the inner surface by engineered printing technology, and
generating, upon the inner surface of the fabric body, an
engineered three-dimensional pattern of raised or fleece regions
and non-raised or non-fleece regions designed to meet predetermined
thermal insulation and/or breatheability at predetermined regions
by forming one or more raised or fleece regions upon the inner
surface of the fabric body while the one or more regions to which
binder material is applied resist raising or fleecing. The method
comprises the further step of forming the fabric body by plaited
knit construction. Preferably, the fabric body is circular knit
with terry sinker loop. Applying binder material to one or more
regions of an inner surface of the fabric body is synchronized with
wet printing in other regions.
[0009] According to another aspect, a method of forming a fabric
article comprises the steps of: interlacing yarns comprising
multi-filament fibers to form a fabric body of knit or woven
construction, forming one or more raised or fleece regions upon an
outer surface of the fabric body, applying binder material to one
or more regions of an inner surface of the fabric body to form a
discontinuous coating of binder material upon yarns fibers, e.g. at
least at interlacing intersections, on at least the inner surface
of the fabric body, and generating, upon the inner surface of the
fabric body, an engineered three-dimensional pattern of raised or
fleece regions and non-raised or non-fleece regions designed to
meet predetermined thermal insulation and/or breatheability at
predetermined regions by forming one or more raised or fleece
regions upon the inner surface of the fabric body while the one or
more regions to which binder material is applied resist raising or
fleecing.
[0010] Preferred implementations of this aspect may include one or
more of the following additional features. The method further
comprises the steps of: applying binder material to the inner
surface of the fabric body in a manner to cause the binder material
to penetrate to the outer surface of the fabric body, and
generating, upon the outer surface of the fabric body, an
engineered three-dimensional pattern of raised or fleece regions
and non-raised or non-fleece regions designed to meet predetermined
thermal insulation and/or breatheability at predetermined regions
by forming one or more raised or fleece regions upon the outer
surface of the fabric body while the one or more regions to which
binder material is applied resist raising or fleecing. The method
further comprises the step of: generating, upon the inner surface
of the fabric body, an engineered three-dimensional pattern of
raised or fleece regions and non-raised or non-fleece regions
designed to meet predetermined thermal insulation and/or
breatheability at predetermined regions by forming one or more
raised or fleece regions upon the inner surface of the fabric body
while the one or more regions to which binder material is applied
resist raising or fleecing, one or more raised or fleece regions of
the inner surface of the fabric body being in registration with one
or more raised or fleece regions of the outer surface of the fabric
body. The method comprises the further step of forming the fabric
body by reverse plaited knit construction. Preferably, the fabric
body is circular knit with terry sinker loop. Applying binder
material to one or more regions of an inner surface of the fabric
body is synchronized with wet printing in other regions.
[0011] There is thus provided a composite fabric article that
overcomes the recognized deficiencies of fabrics of knit
construction, discussed above, in particular when used in garments
and other articles for harsher outdoor sports, without detracting
significantly from qualities of the original form of the fabric
found highly desirable for use during exercise or exertion, e.g.,
warmth, breatheability, drapability, MVT, hand tactile, etc.
Furthermore, improved fabric articles have a predetermined,
controlled, i.e., limited, degree of air permeability or
breatheability and/or thermal insulation performance may be formed
according to the described methods.
[0012] The details of one or more implementations are set forth in
the accompanying drawings and the description below. Other
features, objects, and advantages will be apparent from the
description and drawings, and from the claims.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS
[0013] FIG. 1 is a somewhat diagrammatic front plan view of an
example of a fabric article or garment, here, a jacket, with an
insulating layer of fleece on one or more regions of the inner
surface and a non-continuous coating of binder material on one or
more regions of the outer surface, for enhanced surface
durability.
[0014] FIG. 2 is a somewhat diagrammatic plan view of the outer
surface of a fabric body with a non-continuous coating of binder
material for enhanced surface durability against fraying and
pilling adhered to yarns and yarns fibers about an interstitial
space; and
[0015] FIG. 3 is a somewhat diagrammatic plan view of the outer
surface of a fabric body with a non-continuous coating of binder
material for enhanced surface durability against abrasion, fraying
and pilling adhered to yarns and yarns fibers and also extending
into interstitial spaces for increased wind resistance.
[0016] FIG. 4 is a rear plan view of an example of a fabric article
or garment formed in part of an element of a fabric web and having
enhanced durability regions, e.g., at the shoulder and at the
elbows.
[0017] FIG. 5 is a plan view of a fabric web printed with a series
of predetermined patterns of binder material applied in a
non-continuous coating by engineered pattern printing technology to
form fabric article elements with regions of enhanced surface
durability; and
[0018] FIG. 6 is a plan view of an example of a fabric garment,
here, a shirt, formed in part of an element cut from the fabric web
of FIG. 5 and having enhanced surface durability regions, e.g., at
the shoulders.
[0019] FIG. 7 is a first plan view of a fabric web of plaited knit
construction; and FIG. 8 is a second, opposite plan view of the
fabric web of FIG. 7 printed with a series of predetermined
patterns of binder material applied by engineered pattern printing
technology to form predetermined raised or fleece regions among
contrasting non-raised or non-fleece regions for enhanced thermal
insulation and/or breatheability performance.
[0020] FIG. 9 is a somewhat diagrammatic side section view of a
fabric article cut from a fabric web of reverse plaited knit
construction, with an engineered pattern ("body mapping") of
predetermined regions of double face raised or fleece fabric and
predetermined regions of single face raised or fleece fabric with
an opposite surface that was napped prior to application of the
binder material.
[0021] FIG. 10 is a plan view of a fabric web printed with a series
of predetermined patterns of binder material applied by engineered
pattern printing technology to form regions of raised or fleece
fabric and contrasting regions of non-raised or non-fleece fabric
upon one face of a fabric web, the opposite face being napped.
[0022] FIG. 11 is a plan view of a fabric web printed with a series
of predetermined patterns of binder material applied by engineered
pattern printing technology to form regions an engineered pattern
("body mapping") with regions of raised or fleece fabric and
regions of non-raised or non-fleece fabric in register upon both
faces of a fabric web.
[0023] FIG. 12 is a somewhat diagrammatic side section view of a
fabric article cut from the fabric web of FIG. 1 with an engineered
pattern ("body mapping") with regions of raised or fleece fabric
and contrasting regions of non-raised or non-fleece fabric in
register upon both faces of a fabric web.
[0024] Like reference symbols in the various drawings indicate like
elements.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0025] Referring to FIG. 1, a fabric article of wearing apparel 8,
in this case, by way of example only, a jacket, is formed of an
improved composite fabric 10. The fabric has an inner surface 12,
upon which is formed at least one insulating region of fleece 14,
and an outer surface 16, upon which is adhered a discontinuous
coating 18 of binder or coagulant material, e.g., as used herein
including latex, polymer or resin in emulsion, dispersion or
plastisol, for enhanced surface durability, e.g. against pilling
and fraying. Referring also to FIG. 2, in a preferred
implementation, regions 20 of binder or coagulant material are
adhered primarily to yarn fibers 22 and at interlacing
intersections of yarns 24, thereby allowing the fabric to retain
its original form and characteristics, including good drapability
and hand, and allowing through-passage of air to a predetermined
degree (MVT and breatheability), but also providing an outer
surface of enhanced durability, e.g. against pilling and wear, e.g.
during exercise and harsher outdoor sports.
[0026] Referring to FIG. 3, in other implementations, as described
more fully below, the binder material forms a film 26 that
constricts (but preferably does not block) interstitial spaces 28
between yarns 22, thereby to reduce air-permeability and provide
increased insulation and warmth, for use in particular under colder
and windier conditions.
[0027] In a first example of a fabric article to be provided with
an outer surface of enhanced durability, the fabric has a plaited
circular knit construction, e.g., as described in Knitting
Technology, by David J. Spencer (Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2nd
edition, 1996), the entire disclosure of which is incorporated
herein by reference, with a smooth outer surface (technical face)
and a raised inner surface (technical back). The stitch yarn
forming the technical face is preferably a filament yarn of
textured filaments formed of synthetic material, e.g. polyester,
nylon or polypropylene, the yarn fibers or filaments having a high
level of intermingling, e.g. over at least about 10 tucks per
meter, preferably over about 60 tucks per meter, and more
preferably over about 100 tucks per meter, to reduce the tendency
of individual fibers to fray or catch and later on to pill. In
preferred implementations, the yarn has a fineness of 0.2 to 3.0
denier per filament (dpf). Fraying is a particular concern in
multi-fiber yarns, especially with yarns of fine dpf, e.g. 0.2 to
1.5.
[0028] In a second example of a fabric article to be provided with
the outer surface of enhanced durability, the fabric has a reverse
plaited circular knit construction, where the raised surface can be
formed on the loop yarn, either on the loop side (technical back),
which is preferred, or on the smooth side (technical face). The
technical back can be any of a variety of constructions, e.g., knit
and/or knit-tuck and/or knit-welt and/or knit-tuck-welt in a
variety of combinations.
[0029] To avoid restricting or reducing the capability of
maximizing the bulk of the raised or fleece surface at the
technical back, the fabric articles of knit construction are
preferably finished before application of the binder material to
the outer surface.
[0030] In yet another example, the fabric has a woven construction
of synthetic, multi-filament, textured yarn. Spandex is
incorporated into the yarn, e.g. in air tuck, cover or core spun
position, to provide the fabric with two-way or one-way
stretch.
[0031] In still another example, the fabric upon which a surface of
enhanced durability is to be formed has a warp knit construction,
e.g. as described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,196,032, issued Mar. 6, 2001,
and in U.S. Pat. No. 6,199,410, issued Mar. 13, 2001, the complete
disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference.
[0032] A fabric article, e.g. from the examples described above,
may be treated to provide an outer surface of enhanced durability
by applying binder material to reduce fiber fraying and minimize
pilling.
[0033] Referring to FIG. 4, in a preferred implementation, a
chemical binder material for forming a surface region of enhanced
durability surface is applied to the smooth outer surface of the
fabric article 30 using standard printing technology, e.g. rotary
or gravure roll or by ink jet printing. The binder is preferably
applied, e.g., to shoulder regions 32 and/or to elbow regions 34,
in a non-continuous coating, e.g. a pattern of separate dots. Any
suitable chemical binder material may be employed. Examples of such
binders include resin (such as melamine), latex (such as acrylate),
polymer emulsions or dispersions (such as silicon, polyurethane,
poly vinyl chloride (PVC), or epoxy). The binder is preferably
selected to have a dry hand upon curing or drying, i.e. not tacky
to the touch, good stretch/recovery, and good bond to textile
fibers.
[0034] In another preferred implementation, referring to FIGS. 5
and 6, a suitable binder material for forming a region of enhanced
surface durability is applied by engineered pattern printing
technology to a fabric web 36 (FIG. 5). For example, in FIG. 6, a
shirt 40, formed with an element 37 cut from fabric web 36, has
surface regions 42, 44 of enhanced durability at the shoulders,
which are more prone to abrasion and wear when carrying a backpack.
Other regions of the shirt 40, e.g., the body region 46, may also
be printed to provide enhanced surface durability. However, regions
of less wear, e.g. such as the body region 46, may be printed in a
different pattern with relatively less density of binder or binder
dots per unit area.
[0035] Referring again to FIG. 5, the predetermined pattern of
binder material is applied to the fabric web 36 in a series of
shirt piece patterns 38, 38', 38'' of predetermined configuration,
using engineered pattern printing technology. In a later cut and
sew process (not shown), the printed fabric web 36 is indexed
through a cutter where shirt pieces 37 (indicated in dashed line in
FIG. 5) are cut from the web and then subsequently sewn together in
shirts 40 (FIG. 6).
[0036] In another implementation, the binder for forming a surface
region of enhanced durability surface is applied to the outer
surface of the fabric article with a kiss roll. In this
implementation, in order to reduce the tendency toward fraying
while maintaining a high level of moisture vapor transmission, good
drapability, hand and soft touch, deposit of the binder material is
preferably limited primarily to the fibers and/or to the
intersections of fibers in the yarn segments, and formation of
binder film in the interstitial spaces between yarns is minimized,
e.g. as seen in FIG. 2. The formation of film may particularly be
avoided by removal of excess liquid binder from interstitial spaces
between yarns shortly following application, e.g. while the binder
material is still wet or moist, by air suction or air blowing
through the fabric article.
[0037] Preferably, the binder material is applied in a low
viscosity system, or in: a system with a relatively low level of
binder solids or particulates in a liquid carrier, so that as the
system dries, the liquid carrier evaporates (or in a foam system,
collapses), leaving the solid binder deposited primarily or only on
the yarns or yarn fibers. In this manner, the air permeability
level and other characteristics of the base fabric are
maintained.
[0038] In other implementations, a binder material of relatively
higher viscosity may be employed, to encourage formation of a fine
film in the interstitial areas between yarns that will partially or
fully maintain its integrity during the drying process, e.g. as
seen in FIG. 3. In this manner, the fabric article may be provided
with increased water repellency and wind resistance, which would be
advantageous in cold windy ambient environments. However, a full or
continuous film is typically to be avoided, in order to maintain at
least a minimum desired degree of moisture vapor transmission
necessary for comfort during high energy activities, such as
running, skiing, etc.
[0039] Referring again to FIG. 1, the garment 8 formed of the
fabric article 10 of this implementation thus has an outer surface
16 with a non-continuous binder coating 18 providing weather
protection, with high pill resistance, high abrasion resistance,
and pick resistance, and an inner surface 12 with a raised
insulating region 14 with high bulk and softness. In particular
implementations, the fabric article may be provided with water
repellence and wind protection.
[0040] In another implementation, a fabric web 60 of plaited knit
construction, such as a circular knit with terry sinker loops on
the technical back surface 62 may be employed. For example,
referring to FIGS. 7 and 8, the fabric web 60 has an outer jersey
surface 68 (technical face, FIG. 7) and an opposite looped surface
62 (technical back, FIG. 8). A binder material is applied
selectively to the opposite looped surface 62 (technical back) by
engineered printing technology to form one or more first regions
64, 64' with relatively greater density of binder or binder dots
per unit area, and one or more second regions 66, with no or only
negligible density of binder or binder dots per unit area.
[0041] In yet another implementation, referring also to FIG. 9, in
a fabric web 61 of reverse plaited knit construction, the outer
surface 69 (technical face) is napped or raised in regions 70, 72.
A binder material is thereafter applied selectively to the opposite
looped surface 63 (technical back) by engineered printing
technology to form one or more first regions 65, 65' with
relatively greater density of binder or binder dots per unit area,
and one or more second regions 66, with no or only negligible
density of binder or binder dots per unit area. The second fabric
regions 66 of the looped surface 63 of the fabric web 61 are then
raised or napped to generate double face regions 70 of fleece or
velour in the engineered pattern ("body mapping") of the second
regions 66, disposed among smooth and durable regions 72 of single
face raised or fleece fabric in the one or more first regions 65,
65'. The result is an engineered three-dimensional pattern, with
predetermined regions of raised yarn and non-raised yarn on the
technical back 63, e.g., arranged in accordance with thermal
insulation and breatheability loads of a typical wearer's body and
a plain raised surface on the technical face 69.
[0042] In implementations employing fabric webs of plaited knit
construction or reverse plaited knit construction, the smooth
surfaces, i.e. the technical face, may also be printed with a
binder material for improved durability.
[0043] Referring now to FIG. 10, for fabric web 80 of reverse
plaited knit construction, such as circular knit with terry sinker
loop, in a first implementation, the outer, jersey surface 81
(technical face) is pre-napped. The sinker loops of predetermined
regions 72, 74 of the technical back 73 are then printed with
binder material in an engineered body mapping pattern as above,
e.g., to locally resist raising and/or to improve durability
against abrasion. The technical back 73 is then raised in
non-coated region 76. The result is a fabric having an engineered
pattern of raised regions 72, 74 and non-raised region 76 on one
side, i.e. the technical back 73, and a plain raised surface on the
other side, i.e. the technical face 81.
[0044] Referring next to FIGS. 11 and 12, in a further
implementation, the binder material is applied in an engineered
printing pattern to predetermined regions 82, 84 of the sinker
loops of the technical back 83 of the fabric web 90. The binder is
applied in a manner to cause binder material to penetrate to the
opposite surface 81, i.e. to the technical face, of the fabric web,
thereby to resist raising of corresponding regions 82, 84 and 82',
84' of the technical back and the technical face, respectively. The
printed fabric is then raised in the uncoated regions 86, 86' at
both surfaces to create a three-dimensional pattern obvious at both
surfaces, i.e. to meet different thermal insulation and/or
breatheability requirements of the wearer at the predetermined
regions.
[0045] In each of these implementations, the printed regions may be
formed of sub-regions of contrasting thermal insulation,
breatheability and/or abrasion resistance performance
characteristics by use of different binder materials, densities of
application, penetration, etc., thereby to achieve optimum
performance requirements for each sub-region of the engineered
printing pattern.
[0046] The improved surface durability of fabric articles is
demonstrated in a severe pilling and abrasion test, such as the
modified Martindale abrasion test method of ASTM D 4966. According
to this test method, a fabric article to be tested is subjected to
repeated rubbing by a strip of the hook element (General
Application type, 3/4-inch by 1/2-inch) of a hook-and-loop type
fastener element. After 250 rubs, the appearance of the fabric
article has been seen to be markedly better, e.g., as compared to
untreated fabric articles.
[0047] A number of implementations have been described.
Nevertheless, it will be understood that various modifications may
be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the
invention. For example, other aesthetic effects may be applied to
the face side and/or to the back side, including, e.g., color
differentiation and/or patterning on one or both surfaces,
including three dimensional effects. As mentioned above, the fabric
article may have one-way or two-way stretch, and/or the fabric may
be constructed to provide a degree of stretch from any of a broad
range, including from very low stretch (very stable) to high
stretch or compression power stretch. The binder material may be
applied in other fashions as appropriate, e.g. by kiss coating or
froth foam application, preferably to the technical face after
raising the technical back. In other applications, the binder
material may also be deposited, e.g., by pad application or by kiss
roll, upon both surfaces of the fabric article, including, e.g.,
upon a raised or fleece surface. The multi-strand or multi-filament
yarn may, e.g., have the form of staple fibers in spun yarn or
filaments in continuous yarn, or the fabric may be constructed with
a combination of spun yarn, staple fibers and continuous filament
yarn. In addition to suction and blowing of air through the fabric
article during drying, the degree of film formation may also be
controlled, e.g., by crushing the coated fabric between nip
rollers.
[0048] Also, in other implementations, only selected regions, e.g.,
shoulders and/or elbows, may be printed to provide enhanced surface
durability, and other regions of the shirt, e.g. the body region,
may be left untreated to be raised while printed regions remain
flat, resisting the napping process, for predetermined thermal
insulation and/or breatheability performance effects.
[0049] Referring again to FIGS. 7 and 8, in other implementations,
first regions 64 and first regions 64' may be printed with the same
binder material or with different binder materials and/or in the
same density or different densities of binder material and/or in
the same number or different numbers of binder dots per unit area.
For example, the binder material applied to one or more first
regions 64, 64' may consist of two or more different binder
materials, e.g. a first binder material applied by screen-printing
through a first screen pattern and a second binder material applied
through a second screen pattern. The first and second screen
patterns typically would be different, with no overprint, and the
first and second binder materials may have contrasting properties,
e.g. of toughness, softness, etc. In one implementation, e.g., a
super durable, hard face may be applied to elbow and/or shoulder
regions, and a contrasting pill resistant and/or nap resistant
material may be applied in one or more other regions of the
body.
[0050] Also, application of binder material in a predetermined
engineered pattern for enhanced surface durability and abrasion
resistance may be synchronized with the regular wet printing
process, including in other regions of the fabric body.
[0051] Accordingly, other embodiments are within the scope of the
following claims.
* * * * *