U.S. patent application number 11/103254 was filed with the patent office on 2005-10-27 for personal care compositions that deposit hydrophilic benefit agents.
Invention is credited to El-Nokaly, Magda, Kacher, Mark Leslie, Page, Steven Hardy, Stella, Qing, Wei, Karl Shiqing.
Application Number | 20050238680 11/103254 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 34967973 |
Filed Date | 2005-10-27 |
United States Patent
Application |
20050238680 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Stella, Qing ; et
al. |
October 27, 2005 |
Personal care compositions that deposit hydrophilic benefit
agents
Abstract
A personal care composition comprising a hydrophilic liquid, a
structurant for said hydrophilic liquid, a surface active, a lipid,
and an aqueous phase; wherein said lipid, said hydrophilic liquid,
said structurant, and said surface active form a lipid phase;
wherein said hydrophilic liquid, said structurant, and said surface
active are connected to said lipid in said lipid phase. These
compositions provide improved skin and/or hair moisturization,
appearance, aesthetics and skin and/or hair conditioning during
and/or after application, and are useful in providing improved
deposition to the desired area of the skin and/or hair. The present
invention is further directed to a method of using the personal
care composition.
Inventors: |
Stella, Qing; (Cincinnati,
OH) ; Page, Steven Hardy; (Lawrenceburg, IN) ;
Kacher, Mark Leslie; (Mason, OH) ; Wei, Karl
Shiqing; (Mason, OH) ; El-Nokaly, Magda;
(Cincinnati, OH) |
Correspondence
Address: |
THE PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY
INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY DIVISION
WINTON HILL TECHNICAL CENTER - BOX 161
6110 CENTER HILL AVENUE
CINCINNATI
OH
45224
US
|
Family ID: |
34967973 |
Appl. No.: |
11/103254 |
Filed: |
April 11, 2005 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
60564259 |
Apr 21, 2004 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/401 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/732 20130101;
A61Q 5/12 20130101; A61K 8/31 20130101; A61K 8/0291 20130101; A61P
17/00 20180101; A61Q 5/06 20130101; A61K 8/342 20130101; A61K
8/0295 20130101; A61Q 19/04 20130101; A61K 8/35 20130101; A61K
8/675 20130101; A61Q 5/02 20130101; A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61K 8/345
20130101; A61Q 19/10 20130101; A61Q 5/10 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/401 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/00 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A personal care composition comprising: a) a hydrophilic liquid;
b) a structurant for said hydrophilic liquid; c) a surface active;
d) a lipid; and e) an aqueous phase, wherein said lipid, said
hydrophilic liquid, said structurant, and said surface active form
a lipid phase; wherein said hydrophilic liquid, said structurant,
and said surface active are on the surface of said lipid, within
the domain of said lipid, or both on the surface and within the
domain of said lipid in said lipid phase.
2. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein said
structurant is selected from the group consisting of association
structure forming materials, fluid absorbent particles, inorganic
particulate thickeners, and water-soluble or water-swellable
polymers.
3. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein said
structurant is selected from the group consisting of fluid
absorbent particles, inorganic particulate thickeners, and
water-soluble or water-swellable polymers.
4. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein said surface
active is selected from the group consisting of association
structure forming materials and film forming materials.
5. The personal care composition of claim 4 wherein said
association structure forming materials form association structures
selected from the group consisting of micelles, reverse micelles,
lyotropic liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof.
6. The personal care composition of claim 4 wherein said
association structure forming materials are selected from the group
consisting of anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants,
alkoxylated polymers, polysaccharides, silicone copolyols, and
aminosilicones.
7. The personal care composition of claim 4 wherein said film
forming materials are selected from the group consisting of
dialkylquates, ester oils, silicone oils, silicone waxes, liquid
fatty alcohols and fatty acids, and microfine particles.
8. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein said
structurant and said surface active are both association structure
forming materials.
9. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein said
hydrophilic liquid is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to
about 90% by weight of the composition.
10. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein said lipid
phase is present in an amount of from about 1% to about 95% by
weight of the composition.
11. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein the ratio of
said structurant to said hydrophilic liquid is from about 1:1000 to
about 100:1.
12. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein the ratio of
said surface active to said hydrophilic liquid is from about 1:1000
to about 20:1.
13. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein the
combination of said hydrophilic liquid and said structurant form a
material having a viscosity of at least about 3000 cst at
25.degree. C.
14. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein said lipid
phase is one visually distinct phase that is packaged in physical
contact with said aqueous phase while maintaining stability.
15. The personal care composition of claim 1 further comprising an
additional aqueous phase that is a visually distinct phase that is
packaged in physical contact with said composition while
maintaining stability.
16. The personal care composition of claim 15 wherein said
additional aqueous phase further comprises a surfactant.
17. The personal care composition of claim 1 further comprising an
optional ingredient selected from the group consisting of
structurant for aqueous phase, surfactant, and cationic
polymers.
18. The personal care composition of claim 1 wherein said
composition deposits at least 1 .mu.g/cm.sup.2 of said hydrophilic
liquid on skin according to the in-vivo deposition method when the
concentration of said hydrophilic liquid is at 5.0% of said
personal care composition.
20. A personal care composition comprising: a. a hydrophilic
liquid; b. a structurant for said hydrophilic liquid; c. a surface
active; and d. a lipid wherein said lipid, said hydrophilic liquid,
said structurant, and said surface active form a lipid phase;
wherein said hydrophilic liquid, said structurant, and said surface
active are within the domain of said lipid in said lipid phase;
wherein said structurant is selected from the group consisting of
fluid absorbent particles, inorganic particulate thickeners, and
water-soluble or water-swellable polymers.
21. A method of encapsulating active ingredients by: a) combining a
surface active and a hydrophilic liquid to form an association
structure; b) dispersing said association structure in a lipid
phase; and c) dispersing said lipid phase in aqueous phase.
22. A method of delivering hydrophilic benefit agents to skin or
hair, said method comprising the steps of: dispensing an effective
amount of the personal care composition according to claim 1
directly onto skin or hair or indirectly onto skin or hair via an
implement selected from the group consisting of a cleansing puff,
washcloth, and sponge and removing said composition from skin
and/or hair by rinsing with water.
Description
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION
[0001] This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional
Application No. 60/564,259, filed Apr. 21, 2004.
FIELD
[0002] The present invention relates to the field of personal care
compositions for improving moisturization and appearance and feel
of keratinous surfaces. More specifically, the invention relates to
rinsable personal care compositions that deposit hydrophilic
benefit agents on keratinous surfaces and provide excellent skin
and/or hair moisturization, conditioning, tone, and radiance.
BACKGROUND
[0003] Personal care compositions are well known and widely used.
These compositions have long been employed to cleanse and
moisturize skin and/or hair, deliver actives, hide imperfections
and to reduce the oiliness/shine associated with sebum. While the
compositions and disclosures of the prior art provide useful
advances in the art of personal care compositions, additionally,
there remains the need for improved personal care compositions that
deliver immediate and chronic improvements in skin and/or hair
moisturization, appearance and feel, and will effectively deposit
on all parts of the body. The compositions also need to be
non-greasy and easy to apply.
[0004] Some methods of depositing benefit agents commonly used
include encapsulation of hydrophilic materials in a hydrophobic
shell that is dispersed in hydrophobic lipid carriers for
depositing hydrophilic materials on skin and/or hair. However, the
deposited hydrophilic materials are not able to be readily released
onto skin and/or hair to provide skin and/or hair benefits. The use
of water-oil-water emulsions is another way to potentially deposit
hydrophilic materials. However, the instability of these types of
products often results in a slow leak of hydrophilic materials into
the external aqueous phase, and therefore low deposition
efficiency. Additional methods of depositing benefit agents include
absorbing hydrophilic materials into hydrophilic porous particles
for slow release of the hydrophilic material for leave-on
application. However, hydrophilic particles by themselves are not
effectively deposited onto skin and/or hair from rinse-off
applications.
[0005] It is desirable to provide an effective level of hydrophilic
skin and/or hair benefit materials. However, the deposition of
hydrophilic benefit agents such as glycerine, dihydroxyacetone
(DHA), and others from a rinse-off application has been a
tremendous challenge resulting in no consumer benefit due to low
deposition efficiency. Thus, there still remains the need for a
rinse-off product that more effectively deposits benefit
agents.
SUMMARY
[0006] The present invention relates to a personal care composition
that comprises a hydrophilic liquid, a structurant for said
hydrophilic liquid, a surface active, a lipid, and an aqueous
phase, wherein said lipid, said hydrophilic liquid, said
structurant, and said surface active form a lipid phase; wherein
said lipid, said hydrophilic liquid, said structurant, said surface
active are connected to said lipid in a lipid phase. One embodiment
of the present invention relates to a personal care composition
that comprises a hydrophilic liquid, a structurant for said
hydrophilic liquid, a surface active, a lipid, and an aqueous
phase, wherein said structurant is selected from the group
consisting of fluid absorbent particles, inorganic particulate
thickeners, and water soluble or water swellable polymers, and
wherein said surface active is selected from the group consisting
of association structure forming materials, dialkylquates, ester
oils, silicone oils, liquid fatty alcohols and fatty acids, and
microfine particles. Another embodiment of the present invention
relates to a personal care composition that comprises a hydrophilic
liquid, a structurant for said hydrophilic liquid, a surface
active, a lipid, and an aqueous phase, wherein said structurant and
said surface active are both association structure forming
materials. These compositions provide improved skin and/or hair
moisturization, appearance, aesthetics and skin and/or hair feel
during and/or after application, and are useful in providing
improved deposition of actives to the desired area of the skin
and/or hair.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0007] All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the
total composition and all measurements made are at 25.degree. C.,
unless otherwise designated.
[0008] The compositions of the present invention can comprise,
consist essentially of, or consist of, the essential as well as
optional ingredients and components described herein. As used
herein, "consisting essentially of" means that the composition or
component may include additional ingredients, but only if the
additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel
characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods. It should
be obvious to one skilled in the art that other common personal
care materials can be incorporated without altering the substance
of the invention.
[0009] The term "dermatologically-acceptable", as used herein,
means that the compositions or components thereof so described are
suitable for use in contact with human skin without undue toxicity,
incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like.
[0010] The term "rinsable composition", as used herein, means a
composition designed to be rinsed off by a liquid such as water.
After the composition is rinsed off, hydrophilic benefit agents are
deposited on the skin and/or hair.
[0011] The term "safe and effective amount", as used herein, means
an amount of a compound, component, or composition sufficient to
significantly induce a positive benefit, preferably a positive skin
and/or hair moisturization, appearance or feel benefit, including
independently the benefits disclosed herein, but low enough to
avoid serious side effects, i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit
to risk ratio, within the scope of sound medical judgment.
[0012] The term "topical application", as used herein, means to
apply or spread the compositions of the present invention onto the
surface of the skin.
[0013] The term "hydrophilic liquid", as used herein, means that a
liquid material has a strong affinity to water.
[0014] The term "skin darkening", as used herein, means to impart
color to the skin using artificial means, preferably chemical
means. This term includes compositions that produce an artificial
tan similar to that generated by prolonged exposure to solar
radiation, and also those that impart a slight coloration to the
skin that are not readily recognized as an artificial tan, but
rather generate a subtle color on the skin that makes the skin
appear healthier.
[0015] The term "structurant for the hydrophilic liquid", as used
herein, means a material in combination with a liquid forming a
complex with a viscosity higher than the liquid or in a form of
solid or semi-solid.
[0016] The term "surface active", as used herein, means a material
forming a common boundary of a structured hydrophilic liquid and a
lipid.
[0017] The term "association structure", as used herein, means
micelles, reverse micelles, lyotropic liquid crystal structures,
and .alpha.-crystaline gel structures which are formed by the
mixture of a surfactant or the mixture of surfactants and a polar
solvent or the mixture of polar solvents at ambient
temperature.
[0018] The term "liquid crystals" or "liquid crystalline", as used
herein, means an intermediate state between the solid and liquid
states. It is often called a mesomorphic state. In the literature,
liquid crystal structures are also referred to as anisotropic
fluids, or in the case of the cubic phase, as isotropic fluids, a
fourth state of matter, liquid crystals, aggregates, or mesophases.
These terms are used interchangeably. Liquid crystal structures or
aggregates are generally disclosed in the reference Lyotropic
Liquid Crystals Stig Friberg (Ed.), American Chemical Society,
Washington, D.C., 1976, pp 13-27.
[0019] The term ".alpha.-crystaline gel", as used herein, means a
crystalline state of the surfactant with layers of hydrophilic
liquid between the polar groups. The structure of the gel is of
lamellar type as is the lamellar phase. The difference is that the
hydrocarbon chains are in a solid state and orientated parallel to
each other in an .alpha.-crystalline mode of packing.
[0020] The term "connected to", as used herein, means a material or
a phase is on the surface, within the domain, or both on the
surface and within the domain of another material or a phase.
[0021] Active and other ingredients useful herein may be
categorized or described herein by their cosmetic and/or
therapeutic benefit or their postulated mode of action. However, it
is to be understood that the active and other ingredients useful
herein can in some instances provide more than one cosmetic and/or
therapeutic benefit or operate via more than one mode of action.
Therefore, classifications herein are made for the sake of
convenience and are not intended to limit an ingredient to the
particularly stated application or applications listed.
[0022] A. Hydrophilic Liquid
[0023] A hydrophilic liquid is a liquid with a strong affinity to
water. The hydrophilic liquids include neat liquid materials,
mixtures of liquid materials and solid materials dissolved in
hydrophilic liquids. The hydrophilic liquids and solids have a
solubility of at least 1 g in 100 g of water at 25.degree. C. The
personal care compositions preferably comprise no more than about
90 weight percent of the composition of the hydrophilic liquids,
more preferably no more than about 70 weight percent, more
preferably no more than about 50 weight percent. The personal care
compositions preferably comprise at least about 0.1 weight percent
of the composition of the hydrophilic liquids, more preferably at
least about 0.2 weight percent, even more preferably at least about
0.5 weight percent. The useful skin compatible hydrophilic liquids
may include hydrophilic materials including, but not limited to,
water, humectants, sugar amines, Vitamin B families, Vitamin C
families, Natural extracts, protease inhibitors,
.alpha.-hydroxyaldehydes and ketones, peptides, water soluble or
swellable polymers, and mixtures thereof. The skin benefits
provided by these materials include moisturization, softness, feel,
shine, desquamation, barrier improvement, wrinkle repair,
anti-yellowing/sallowness, anti-irritancy, soothing, darkening,
lightening, hair growth reduction, hair styling and hair
conditioning.
[0024] Suitable skin compatible solvents to dissolve solid
hydrophilic materials include, but are not limited towater,
alcohols (e.g. ethanol, glycerin), polyols (e.g.
Polyethyleneglycol), hydrophilic oils and/or their mixtures.
[0025] 1. Humectants
[0026] The compositions of the present invention may contain a
humectant. The humectants herein are selected from the group
consisting of water, polyhydric alcohols, amino acids, pyrrolidone
carboxylic acid and salt, hydroxyl acids, urea, urea derivatives
and water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixtures
thereof.
[0027] Polyhydric alcohols useful herein include glycerin,
sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol,
ethoxylated glucose, 1,2-hexane diol, hexanetriol, dipropylene
glycol, erythritol, trehalose, diglycerin, xylitol, maltitol,
maltose, glucose, fructose, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium
hyaluronate, sodium adenosine phosphate, sodium lactate,
pyrrolidone carbonate, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, and mixtures
thereof.
[0028] Hydroxyl acids useful herein include lactic acid and
glycolic acid, salicylic acid and their salts, and mixtures
thereof.
[0029] Water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers useful herein
include polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a
molecular weight of up to about 1000 such as those with CTFA names
PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, and mixtures thereof.
[0030] 2. Electrolytes
[0031] The compositions of the present invention may include a safe
and effective amount of an electrolyte. Non-limiting examples
include sodium salts, potassium salts, calcium salts, and mixtures
thereof.
[0032] 3. Sugar Amines
[0033] The compositions of the present invention may include a safe
and effective amount of a sugar amine, which are also known as
amino sugars. As used herein, "sugar amine" refers to an amine
derivative of a six-carbon sugar. Examples of sugar amines that are
useful herein include glucosamine, N-acetyl glucosamine,
mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, and N-acetyl
galactosamine.
[0034] 4. Vitamin B Family
[0035] The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe
and effective amount of a compound from the Vitamin B Family. In
one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention can
contain a vitamin B.sub.3 compound. Vitamin B.sub.3 compounds are
particularly useful for regulating skin condition as described in
U.S. Pat. No. 5,939,082. As used herein, "vitamin B.sub.3 compound"
means a compound having the formula: 1
[0036] wherein R is --CONH.sub.2 (i.e., niacinamide), --COOH (i.e.,
nicotinic acid) or --CH.sub.2OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); salts,
derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0037] The compositions of the present invention may include a safe
and effective amount of a panthenoic acid derivative, including
panthenol, dexpanthenol, ethyl panthenol, and mixtures thereof.
These vitamin B.sub.5 compounds provide skin soothing,
moisturizing, and anti-irritating benefits.
[0038] The topical compositions of the present invention may
comprise a safe and effective amount of one or more vitamin B.sub.6
compounds selected from the group consisting of pyridoxine, esters
of pyridoxine (e.g., pyridoxine tripalmitate), amines of pyridoxine
(e.g., pyridoxamine), salts of pyridoxine (e.g., pyridoxine HCl)
and derivatives thereof, including pyridoxamine, pyridoxal,
pyridoxal phosphate, pyridoxic acid, and mixtures thereof. Vitamin
B.sub.6 can be synthetic or natural in origin and can be used as
pure compounds or mixtures of compounds (e.g., extracts from
natural sources or mixtures of synthetic materials). Vitamin
B.sub.6 is generally found in many foodstuffs, especially yeast,
liver and cereals. As used herein, "vitamin B.sub.6" includes
isomers and tautomers of such. Vitamin B.sub.6 is commercially
available from Sigma Chemical Co.
[0039] 5. Vitamin C Family
[0040] The compositions of the present invention may include a safe
and effective amount of a compound from the Vitamin C Family.
Specifically, the compositions may include ascorbic acid and its
salts, and ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g. magnesium ascorbyl
phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl sorbate, ascorbyl
glucoside, and mixtures thereof). These anti-oxidant/radical
scavengers are especially useful for providing protection against
UV radiation which can cause increased scaling or texture changes
in the stratum corneum and against other environmental agents which
can cause skin damage.
[0041] 6. Natural Extracts
[0042] The compositions of the present invention may include a safe
and effective amount of extracts from natural products.
Non-limiting examples include mulberry extract, placental extract,
soy extract, green tea extract, and chamomile extract. These
extracts provide a broad range of skin benefits such as
anti-inflammatory, skin lightening, hair growth reduction and
anti-irritancy.
[0043] 7. Peptides
[0044] The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe
and effective amount of a peptide, including but not limited to,
di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa-peptides, and derivatives and
mixtures thereof. As used herein, "peptide" refers to peptides
containing ten or fewer amino acids and their derivatives, isomers,
and complexes with other species such as metal ions (e.g., copper,
zinc, manganese, magnesium, and the like). As used herein, peptide
refers to both naturally occurring and synthesized peptides. Also
useful herein are naturally occurring and commercially available
compositions that contain peptides.
[0045] 8. Alpha-Hydroxy Aldehydes and Ketones
[0046] The compositions of the present invention may include
alpha-hydroxy aldehydes and ketones. Examples include, but are not
limited to, dihydroxyacetone, glyceraldehydes,
2,3-dihydroxy-succindialdehyde, 2,3-dimethoxysuccindialdehyde,
erythrulose, erythrose, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-succindialdehyde and
3-benzylamino-3-hydroxy-succindial- dehye. These compounds have a
sun-less tanning benefit when applied to skin. As used herein, the
term "sun-less tanning" is defined as color darkening to the skin
using artificial means, preferably chemical means. This term
includes compositions that produce an artificial tan similar to
that generated by prolonged exposure to solar radiation, and also
those that impart a slight coloration to the skin that are not
readily recognized as an artificial tan, but rather generate a
subtle color on the skin that makes the skin appear healthier.
[0047] 9. Hexamidine
[0048] The topical compositions of the present invention may
comprise a safe and effective amount of one or more hexamidines and
their salts. Preferably, the hexamidine is hexamidine isethfionate.
As used herein "hexamidine" includes any isomers and tautomers of
such. Hexamidine is commercially available as hexamidine
isethionate under the tradename Elastab.RTM. HP100 from
Laboratoires Serobiologiques.
[0049] 10. Dehydroacetic Acid
[0050] The compositions of this invention may comprise
dehydroacetic acid or its salts, derivatives, or tautomers thereof.
These compounds are useful in (i) reducing sebum synthesis by the
pilosebaceous glands, (ii) regulating the oily and/or shiny
appearance of the skin, and (iii) treating acne and other related
skin disorders in mammalian skin and scalp. Dermatologically
acceptable salts include alkali metal salts, such as sodium and
potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, such as calcium and
magnesium; non-toxic heavy metal salts; ammonium salts; and
trialkylammonium salts, such as trimethylammonium and
triethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. Sodium, potassium, and
ammonium salts of dehydroacetic acid are preferred. Derivatives of
dehydroacetic acid include, but are not limited to, any compounds
wherein the CH.sub.3 groups are individually or in combination
replaced by amides, esters, amino groups, alkyls, and alcohol
esters. Tautomers of dehydroacetic acid are the isomers of
dehydroacetic acid which can change into one another with great
ease so that they ordinarily exist in equilibrium. Thus, tautomers
of dehydroacetic acid can be described as having the chemical
formula C.sub.8H.sub.8O.sub.4.
[0051] 11. Water-Soluble or Water-Swellable Polymer
[0052] The polymers useful in this invention are any water-soluble
or water-swellable polymer suitable for use in personal care
products and for application to human skin and hair. The polymers
may be homopolymers, copolymers or a blend of polymers or
copolymers. The polymers can be natural, synthetic, or
semi-synthetic. Polymers can be straight chain or cross-linked.
Polymers, containing either ionic and non-ionic groups, are
contemplated. Ionic polymers include, but are not limited to,
cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric polymers. The
polymers can be synthesized from a variety of monomers containing
unsaturated groups or by synthetic mechanisms that result in a
variety of linking groups, including polyurethanes, polyesters,
polyamides, and polyureas in the polymer backbone.
[0053] Examples of useful commercially available synthetic polymers
are listed below. The names described are according to the
nomenclature developed by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance
Association, Inc. (CTFA). In few cases, where the CTFA name is not
available, the chemical name is written. Non-limiting examples
include: vinylcaprolactam/PVP/dime- thylamino-ethylmethacrylate
copolymer (trade name: Gaffic, H2OLD, ISP Corp.), vinyl
acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl propionate copolymer (trade name:
Luviset, BASF), vinyl acetate/crotonates copolymer (trade name:
Resyn, National Starch Corp.), vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isobomyl
acrylate copolymer (trade name: Advantage CPV, ISP),
tyrene/vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (trade name: Polectron, ISP);
vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers (ISP, BASF);
polyvinylpyrrolidone/polyurethane interpolymer (Pecogel, Phoenix);
octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer
(Amphomer, National Starch); quaternized
vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoet- hyl methacrylate copolymer
(Polyquaternium-11, ISP), vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl
propionate copolymer (Luviskol, BASF). In addition, other
commercially available polymers listed in the Encyclopedia of
Polymers and Thickeners, Cosmetic and Toiletries, page 95, Vol.
108, May 1993 can be included in this invention.
[0054] Examples of natural and modified natural polymers are:
copolymer of hydroxyethyl-cellulose and dimethyldiallyl ammonium
chloride (Polyquaternium-4; National Starch),
hydroxyethyl-cellulose (Natrosol; Aqualon), xanthan gum (Calgon),
and other polymers listed in the Encyclopedia of Polymers and
Thickeners, Cosmetic and Toiletries, page 95, Vol. 108, May 1993
can be included in this invention.
[0055] Polymers that may be useful in the present invention are
silicone graft copolymers listed in the U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,565,193
and 5,622,694; hydrophobic graft copolymers are listed in U.S. Pat.
No. 5,622,694; silicone block copolymers are listed in U.S. Pat.
No. 6,074,628.
[0056] The water-soluble or water-swellable polymers of the present
invention may also include carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers.
The carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers herein can include
cross-linked copolymers of carboxylic acid and alkyl carboxylate,
and can have an amphophilic property. Commercially available
carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers useful herein include: CTFA
name Acrylates/C.sub.10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer having
tradenames Pemulene TR-1, Pemulene TR-2, Carbopol 1342, Carbopol
1382, and Carbopol ETD 2020, all available from B. F. Goodrich
Company.
[0057] 12. Colorants
[0058] The composition of the present invention may include a
colorant. In general, colorants are those substances that provide
color to a personal care product. The purpose of the colorant is to
deliver the desirable shade or color to skin or hair that the user
is seeking as well as to even out skin tone by covering or hiding
tonal imperfections. Such colorants should be physically and
chemically compatible with the essential components described
herein, or should not otherwise unduly impair product stability,
aesthetics or performance. Useful colorants herein include water
soluble dyes. Water soluble dyes, identified by one skilled in the
art, are dyes that are substantially soluble in aqueous solutions.
Non-limiting examples of water soluble acid dyes include D&C
Red 33, FD&C Yellow No. 5, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Yellow
No. 8, and D&C Yellow No. 10.
[0059] The composition of the present invention may include an
oxidizing agent (e.g. peroxides), and/or oxidative dye precursors
(including developers and/or couplers when present).
[0060] B. Structurant for the Hydrophilic Liquid
[0061] The compositions of the present invention may contain a
structurant for the hydrophilic liquid. A structurant mixed with a
liquid forms a complex with a viscosity higher than the liquid or
in a form of solid or semi-solid. The combination of the
hydrophilic liquid and structurant form a material having a
preferred viscosity of at least about 3000 cst (centistokes) at
25.degree. C., preferably at least about 5000 cst. The structurants
herein are used to immobilize hydrophilic liquids. Useful
structurants include association structure forming materials, fluid
absorbent particles, inorganic particulate thickeners, and
water-soluble or water-swellable polymers. Preferably the ratio of
structurant to hydrophilic liquid is from about 1:1000 to about
100:1, more preferably from about 1:200 to about 80:1, still more
preferably from about 1:100 to about 50:1, and even more preferably
from about 1:20 to about 20:1.
[0062] 1. Association Structure Forming Materials
[0063] The personal care compositions of the present invention may
include association structure forming materials. The association
structure forming materials comprise from about 0.1% to about 80%
of the personal care composition. Preferably the association
structure forming materials comprise from about 0.2% to about 70%,
of the personal care composition.
[0064] Use of the association structure forming materials in the
present invention provides a method of encapsulating active
ingredients. The active ingredients are encapsulated by combining a
surface active (described herein) and a hydrophilic liquid
(described herein) to form an association structure; dispersing the
association structure in a lipid phase (described herein); and
dispersing the lipid phase in an aqueous phase (described
herein).
[0065] The association structures of the present invention may be
micelles, reverse micelles, lyotropic liquid crystals,
.alpha.-crystalline gels and mixtures thereof. Reverse micelles are
also known in the art as spherical reverse micelles, elongated
reverse micelles, bicontinuous phase or L2 phase; cylindrical
reverse micelles or reverse connected rod-shaped liquid crystals
also known in the art as networking reverse cylinders, connected
cylindrical reverse micelle structures, or connected cylinders.
Lyotropic Liquid Crystals include: 1) reverse hexagonal liquid
crystals, also known in the art as hexognal II or F phase; 2) cubic
liquid crystals, also known in the art as viscous isotropic and
I.sub.2 phase; 3) lamellar liquid crystals, also known in the art
as the L.alpha. neat phase and D phase; and 4) cholesteric liquid
crystals, an anisotropic subclass of polymeric lyotropic liquid
crystal. The centers of gravity of the polymeric particles are
arranged at random with no positional order, but only an
orientational order exists.
[0066] Preferred association structures are the cylindrical reverse
micelle, reverse hexagonal liquid crystals, cubic liquid crystals,
lamellar liquid crystals, cholesteric liquid crystals, and mixtures
thereof. The association structures can be in the following phases:
two phase liquid crystals, one phase liquid crystals, reverse
micelles/liquid crystalline phase or liquid crystalline/solvent
phase.
[0067] Any surfactant and/or polymers which forms association
structures at ambient temperature and is suitable for use in
personal care compositions, is suitable for use herein. Surfactants
suitable for use in personal care compositions do not present
dermatological or toxicological problems. Anionic surfactants,
nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants
and mixtures thereof are suitable for use.
[0068] Types of anionic surfactants suitable for use are soaps;
sulfonates such as alkane sulfonates (e.g., branched sodium
x-alkane sulfonate where x.noteq.1) paraffin sulfonates,
alkylbenzene sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, sulfosuccinates and
sulfosuccinate esters (e.g., dioctylsodium and disodium laureth
sulfosuccinate), oisethionates, acylisethionates (e.g., sodium
2-lauroyloxyethane sulfonate), and sulfalkylamides of fatty acids,
particularly N-acylmethyltaurides; sulfates such as alkyl sulfates,
ethoxylated alkyl sulfates, sulfated monoglycerides, sulfated
monoglycerides, sulfated alkanolamides, and sulfated oils and fats;
carboxylates such as alkyl caboxylate having a carbon chain length
above C.sub.12, acylsarcosinates, sarcosinates (e.g., sodium lauryl
sarcosinate), ethoxylated carboxylic acid sodium salts, carboxylic
acids and salts (e.g., potassium oleate and potassium laurate),
ether carboxylic acids; ethoxylated carboxylic acids and salts
(e.g., sodium carboxymethyl alkyl ethoxylate; phosphoric acid
esters and salts (e.g., lecithin); acylglutamates (e.g., disodium
n-lauroyl glutamate) and mixtures thereof. It should be noted that
the safest alkyl sulfates for use generally have a hydrocarbon
chain lengths above C.sub.12.
[0069] Types of nonionic surfactants suitable for use are
polyoxyethylenes such as ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated
alcohols (e.g., octaoxyethelene glycol mono hexadecyl ether,
C.sub.16E.sub.8 and C.sub.12E.sub.8), ethoxylated fatty acids,
ethoxylated fatty amines, ethoxylated fatty amides, ethoxylated
alkanolamides, ethoxylated alkyl phenol, and ethoxylated sterols;
triesters of phosphoric acid (e.g., sodium dioleylphosphate); alkyl
amido diethylamines; alkylamido propylbetaines (e.g., cocoamido
propylbetaine); amine oxide derivatives such alkyl dimethylamine
oxides, alkyl dihydroxyethylamine oxides, alkyl amidodimethylamine
oxidesand alkyl amidodihydroxyethylamine oxides; polyhydroxy
derivatives such as polyhydric alcohol esters and ethers (e.g.,
sucrose monooleate, cetostearyl glucoside, .beta. octyl
glucofuranoside, esters, alkyl glucosides having a carbon chain
length of from C.sub.10 to C.sub.16), mono, di- and polyglycerol
ethers and polyglycerol esters (e.g., tetraglycerol monolaurate and
monoglycerides, triglycerol monooleate (such as TS-T122 supplied by
Grinsted), diglycerol monooleate (such as TST-T101 supplied by
Grinsted), ethoxylated glycerides; monoglycerides such as
monoolein, monolaurin and monlinolein; diglyceride fatty acids such
as diglycerol monoisostearate (e.g., Cosmol 41 fractionated
supplied by Nisshin oil Mills, Ltd.) and mixtures thereof.
[0070] Types of cationic surfactants suitable for use are
aliphatic-aromatic quaternary ammonium halides; quaternary ammonium
alkyl amido derivatives; alkyl amidopropyldimethylammonium lactate;
alkylamidopropyldihydroxyethylammo-nium lactate; alkyl amidopropyl
morpholinium lactate; quaternary ammonium lanolin salts; alkyl
pyridinium halides; alkyl isoquinolinium halides; alkyl
isoquinolinium halides; quaternary ammonium imidazolinium halides;
bisquaternary ammonium derivatives; alkylbenzyl dimethylammonium
salts such as stearalkylammonium chloride; alkylbetaines such as
dodecyldimethylammonium acetate and oleylbetaine;
alkylethylmorpholinium ethosulfaates; tetra alkyl ammonium salts
such as dimethyl distearyl quaternary ammonium chloride and bis
isostearamideopropyl hydroxypropyl diammonium chloride (Schercoquat
2IAP from Scher Chemicals); heterocyclic ammonium salts;
bis(triacetylammoniumacetyl)diamines and mixtures thereof.
[0071] Types of amphoteric surfactants suitable for use are alkyl
betaines; alkanolamides such as monoalkanolamides and
dialkanolamides; alkyl amido propylbetaines; alkyl
amidopropylhydroxysultaines; acylmonocarboxy hydroxyethyl
glycinates; acyldicarboxy hydroxyethyl glycinates; alkyl
aminopropionates such as sodium laurimino dipropionate; alkyl
iminodipropionates; amine oxides; acyl ethylenediamine betaines;
N-alkylamino acids such as sodium N-alkylamino acetate;
N-lauroylglutamic acid cholesterol esters; alkyl imidazolines and
mixtures thereof. Association structure forming materials may
include polymers such as alkoxylated polymers and polysaccharides.
The polymers may have a molecular weight of from about 500 to about
1,000,000. Lower molecular weight polymers within the range of from
about 750 to about 500,000 are preferred, and those with molecular
weights of from about 1,000 to about 60,000 are even more
preferred. Polysaccharides useful in the present invention include
polyglucose materials, gums, hydrocolloids, cellulose and
cellulose-derivative polymers. Many of these and other suitable
polysaccharides are described in Industrial Gums--Polysaccharides
and Their Derivatives, Roy L. Whistler, Academic Press (New York),
1959 and also in P. Weigel et al., "Liquid Crystalline States in
Solutions of Cellulose and Cellulose Derivatives," Acta Polymerica
Vol. 35 No. 1, 1984, pp. 83-88. Useful polysaccharides include
nonionic, anionic and cationic polysaccharides. Preferred nonionics
include the hydroxypropyl cellulose polymers known as the KLUCEL
series available from Hercules, Inc. and xantham guy available from
Kelco. Preferred anionic polymers are the sodium alginates
(available from Kelco) and sodium carboxymethylcellulose polymer
available from Hercules. Preferred cationic polymers are CHITOSAN
and CHITIN from Protan, Inc, and also depolymerised guar, such as
T4406 from Hi Tek Polymers. Alkoxylated polymers useful in the
present invention include the Poloxamer Series of EO-PO condensates
(A-B-A type block copolymers of polyoxyethylene and
polyoxypropylene). Suitable examples of
polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene block copolymers include
Poloxamers 403, 402, and 401 available under the tradenames
PLURONIC P123, PLURONIC L-122, and PLURONIC L-121 from BASF and
Hodag Nonionic 1123-P and Hodan Nonionc 1122-L from Calgene and
SYNPERONIC PE/L121 from ICI.
[0072] Also useful herein are silicone copolyols and
aminosilicones. Suitable examples include DC-190, DC-193, DC5329,
Q4-3667 from Dow Corning; Silwet L-7622 and Silwet L-77 from Union
Carbide.
[0073] 2. Fluid Absorbent Particles
[0074] The compositions of the present invention may comprise
fluid-absorbent particles. The fluid-absorbent particles can be any
material that remains solid within the composition, including
porous, hydrophilic, and solid particles. The fluid absorbent
particles may have an average particle size of from about 0.001
microns to about 2000 microns, preferably from about 0.01 microns
to about 200 microns, more preferably from about 0.1 microns to
about 100 microns. The fluid-absorbent particles for use in the
compositions of the present invention include moisture-absorbent
materials such as silicas (or silicon dioxides), silicates,
carbonates, various organic copolymers, and combinations thereof.
The silicates are most typically those formed by reaction of a
carbonate or silcate with an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or
transition metal, specific non-limiting examples of which include
calcium silicate, amorphous silicas (e.g., precipitated, fumed, and
colloidal), calcium carbonate (e.g., chalk), magnesium carbonate,
zinc carbonate, and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examples of
some suitable silicates and carbonates for use herein are described
in Van Nostrand Reinhold's Encyclopedia of Chemistry, 4.sup.th
edition, pages 155, 169, 556, and 849 (1984). Absorbent powders are
also described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,004,584.
[0075] Other fluid-absorbent particles suitable for use herein
include kaolin, (hydrated aluminum silicates), mica, talc (hydrated
magnesium silicates), starch or modified starch, microcrystalline
cellulose (e.g., Avicel from FMC Corporation), or other
functionally similar fluid-absorbent polymer, any other
silica-containing or non-silica-containing powder.
[0076] Other fluid-absorbent particles suitable for the use herein
include super-absorbent polymers. By definition, a superabsorbent
polymer must absorb a minimum of 20 times its own weight in water.
Moreover, the polymer must retain its original identity and have
sufficient physical integrity to resist flow and fusion with
neighboring particles, and to swell to equilibrium volume and not
dissolve. Non-limiting examples include Water Lock.RTM.
superabsorbent polymers (e.g. Starch graft poly
(2-propenamide-co-2-propenoic acid) sodium or potassium salt,
2-propenamide-co-2-propenoic acid copolymer, sodium salt)
manufactured by Grain Processing Corporation.
[0077] 3. Inorganic Particulate Thickeners
[0078] The compositions of the invention may also include inorganic
particulate thickener. These inorganic particles form a stable
network with hydrophilic liquids. Non-limiting examples include
silica and clay (e.g. Benton clays from Rhox) with particle size
less than 1 micrometer.
[0079] 4. Water-Soluble or Water-Swellable Polymers
[0080] Description is same as above in the hydrophilic liquid
section.
[0081] C. Surface Active
[0082] The compositions of the present invention include surface
actives. The surface actives form a common boundary of a structured
hydrophilic liquid and a lipid. The surface actives contain polar
groups and non-polar groups. This property can be measured by a
contact angle method. The contact angles of the surface actives on
both a hydrophobic surface (polyethylene terephthalate) and a
hydrophilic surface (aluminum foil) are no more than 60.degree.,
preferably no more than 50.degree., and even more preferably no
more than 40.degree. for materials which can be applied to the
surfaces as drops. Contact angles of diiodomethane and water on
thin films of surface actives that are too thick to form drops on
the solvent surfaces are no more than 90.degree., preferably no
more than 80.degree., even more preferably no more than 70.degree..
Preferably the solubility parameter of surface actives is at least
3 units different from that of the hydrophilic liquid, more
preferably at least 4 units different, still more preferably at
least 5 units from that of the hydrophilic liquid. Preferably the
solubility parameter of the surface actives is at least 1 unit
different from that of the lipid described herein, more preferably
at least 1.5 units different and even more preferably at least 2
units different from that of the lipid. The ratio of surface active
to hydrophilic liquid is from about 1:1000 to about 20:1, more
preferably from about 1:100 to about 15:1, still more preferably
from about 1:10 to about 10:1.
[0083] The surface actives can be combined with the structured
hydrophilic liquids during formulating the product. Alternatively,
the structured hydrophilic liquids can be treated with the surface
actives by a surface treatment house (e.g. KOBO products, US
Cosmetics).
[0084] 1. Association Structure Forming Materials
[0085] In one embodiment of the present invention, both the
structurant for the hydrophilic liquid and the surface active are
association structure forming materials. The description is the
same as above in the structurant for the hydrophilic liquid
section.
[0086] 2. Film Forming Materials
[0087] In one embodiment of the present invention, the structurant
for the hydrophilic liquid and the surface active are not both
association structure forming materials. In this embodiment, the
surface active may be film forming materials selected from
dialkylquates, ester oils, silicone oils and waxes, liquid fatty
alcohols and fatty acids, and microfine particles.
[0088] a. Dialkylquates
[0089] The present compositions may include a dialkylquaternary
compound. Non-limiting examples include dialkyl dimethyl
quaternaries (e.g. dialkyl(C.sub.12-C.sub.18)dimethyl ammonium
chloride, ditallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl
ammonium methyl sulfate) and imidazolinium quaternaries (e.g.
methyl-1-oleyl amido ethyl-2-oleyl imidazolinium-methyl
sulfate).
[0090] b. Ester Oils
[0091] Ester oils have at least one ester group in the molecule.
One type of common ester oil useful in the present invention are
the fatty acid mono and polyesters such as cetyl octanoate, octyl
isonanoanate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate,
myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl
stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol
monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl
lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate; sucrose ester and
polyesters, sorbitol ester, and the like. A second type of useful
ester oil is predominantly comprised of triglycerides and modified
triglycerides. These include vegetable oils such as jojoba,
soybean, canola, sunflower, safflower, rice bran, avocado, almond,
olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, and mink oils. Synthetic
triglycerides can also be employed provided they are liquid at room
temperature. Modified triglycerides include materials such as
ethoxylated and maleated triglyceride derivatives provided they are
liquids. Proprietary ester blends such as those sold by Finetex as
Finsolv are also suitable, as is ethylhexanoic acid glyceride. A
third type of ester oil is liquid polyester formed from the
reaction of a dicarboxylic acid and a diol. Examples of polyesters
suitable for the present invention are the polyesters marketed by
ExxonMobil under the trade name PURESYN ESTER.RTM.
[0092] c. Silicone Oils and Waxes
[0093] The compositions of the present invention may include
silicone oils and waxes. Silicone oils and waxes include
polydimethyl siloxane, organo functional silicones (alkyl and alkyl
aryl, copolyol), and amino silicones.
[0094] d. Liquid Fatty Alcohols and Fatty Acids
[0095] The liquid fatty alcohols useful herein include those having
from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms. These liquid fatty alcohols
may be straight or branched chain alcohols and may be saturated or
unsaturated alcohols. Liquid fatty alcohols are those fatty
alcohols which are liquid at 25.degree. C. Nonlimiting examples of
these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitoleic alcohol,
isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. While
poly fatty alcohols are useful herein, mono fatty alcohols are
preferred.
[0096] The fatty acids useful herein include those having from
about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be
straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or
unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid,
linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic
acid, arachidonic acid, ricinolic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] e. Microfine Particles
[0098] The present compositions may include microfine particles as
surface actives. The microfine particles are dispersible both in
water and in oil. The average diameter of the particles used is
from about 1 nm to about 200 nm. Advantageous particles are all
those which are suitable for stabilizing water-in-oil Pickering
emulsions. The amphiphilic characteristics can also be achieved
with the surface treatments of these microfine particles.
Non-limiting examples of microfine particles include metal oxides
and boron nitrides. Non-limiting surface coatings include
silicones, silicone derivatives silca, gel, aluminium hydroxide,
and alumina.
[0099] D. Lipid/Lipid Phase
[0100] The composition of the present invention may include a skin
compatible lipid. A skin compatible lipid is defined herein, as a
lipid that is liquid, semi-solid, or solid at the temperature at
which bathing is carried out that is deemed safe for use in
cosmetics being either inert to the skin or actually beneficial.
Lipids useful herein may include oils and waxes. Useful skin
compatible lipids for the present invention include ester lipids,
hydrocarbon lipids, and silicone lipids.
[0101] Ester lipids have at least one ester group in the molecule.
One type of common ester lipids useful in the present invention are
the fatty acid mono and polyesters such as cetyl octanoate, octyl
isonanoanate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate,
myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl
stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol
monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl
lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate, sucrose ester and
polyesters, sorbitol ester, and the like.
[0102] A second type of useful ester lipids is predominantly
comprised of triglycerides and modified triglycerides. These
include vegetable oils such as jojoba, soybean, canola, sunflower,
safflower, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic,
castor, coconut, and mink oils. Synthetic triglycerides can also be
employed provided they are liquid at room temperature. Modified
triglycerides include materials such as ethoxylated and maleated
triglyceride derivatives provided they are liquids. Proprietary
ester blends such as those sold by Finetex as Finsolv are also
suitable, as is ethylhexanoic acid glyceride.
[0103] A third type of ester lipids is liquid polyester formed from
the reaction of a dicarboxylic acid and a diol. Examples of
polyesters suitable for the present invention are the polyesters
marketed by ExxonMobil under the trade name PURESYN ESTER.RTM.
[0104] A second class of skin compatible lipids suitable for the
present invention is liquid and semi-solid hydrocarbons. These
include linear and branched oils such as liquid paraffin, squalene,
squalane, mineral oil, low viscosity synthetic hydrocarbons such as
polyalphaolefin sold by ExxonMobil under the trade name of PURESYN
PAO and polybutene under the trade name PANALANE or INDOPOL. Light
(low viscosity), highly branched hydrocarbon oils are also
suitable.
[0105] Petrolatum is a hydrocarbon material and a useful component
of the present invention. Its semi-solid nature can be controlled
both in production and by the formulator through blending with
other oils.
[0106] A third class of useful skin compatible lipids is silicone
based. They include linear and cyclic polydimethyl siloxane, organo
functional silicones (alkyl and alkyl aryl), and amino
silicones.
[0107] A fourth class of useful skin compatible lipids is liquid
fatty alcohols. Useful liquid fatty alcohols herein include those
having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms. These liquid fatty
alcohols may be straight or branched chain alcohols and may be
saturated or unsaturated alcohols. Liquid fatty alcohols are those
fatty alcohols which are liquid at 25.degree. C. Nonlimiting
examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitoleic
alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, and mixtures
thereof. While poly fatty alcohols are useful herein, mono fatty
alcohols are preferred.
[0108] A fifth class of useful skin compatible lipids is liquid
fatty acids. The liquid fatty acids useful herein include those
having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms. These fatty acids
can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or
unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid,
linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic
acid, arachidonic acid, ricinolic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] The lipids of the present invention may be part of a lipid
phase. The lipid phase is comprised of three components: a skin
compatible lipid, a complex containing a hydrophilic liquid and a
structurant, and a surface active. The complex containing a
hydrophilic liquid and a structurant is wrapped with the surface
active and mixed with the lipid, forming a lipid phase. The
hydrophilic liquid, the structurant, and the surface active may be
on the surface of the lipid, within the domain of the lipid, or
both on the surface and within the domain of the lipid in the lipid
phase. The lipid phase is then mixed with the aqueous phase. The
lipid phase may be either dispersed in the aqueous phase, connected
to the aqueous phase, or both dispersed and connected to the
aqueous phase.
[0110] To ensure effective deposition and retention to the skin,
the lipid phase or structured lipid phase should have a viscosity
in the range of from about 100 to about 200,000 poise measured at 1
Sec.sup.-1, preferably from about 200 to about 100,000 poise, and
even more preferably from about 200 to about 50,000 poise as
determined using the Lipid Rheology Method described herein.
[0111] As the lipid phase may be connected to the aqueous phase,
the lipid phase will have negligible solubility in the aqueous
phase. The shear index is a measure of how shear thinning the
materials are as described in the Lipid Rheology Method described
herein. It is preferred that the skin compatible lipid be shear
thinning either by virtue of its composition or the structurants
that may be added. Preferably, the shear index of the dispersed
lipid phase will be less than about 0.9, more preferably less than
about 0.75, even more preferably less than about 0.6, even more
preferably less than about 0.45, and still more preferably less
than about 0.3.
[0112] The lipid phase preferably comprises no more than about 95
weight percent of the lipid, preferably no more than about 90
weight percent, and more preferably no more than about 85 weight
percent of the lipid. The lipid phase preferably comprises at least
about 1 weight percent, more preferably at least about 5 weight
percent, and still more preferably at least about 10 weight percent
of the lipid.
[0113] The composition preferably comprises no more than about 95
weight percent of the lipid phase, preferably no more than about 90
weight percent, and more preferably no more than about 85 weight
percent of the lipid phase. The composition preferably comprises at
least about 1 weight percent, more preferably at least about 5
weight percent, and still more preferably at least about 10 weight
percent of the lipid phase.
[0114] The lipid phase may also contain oil-soluble or dispersible
skin benefit materials. Non-limiting examples include oil-soluble
sun screens, particles (e.g. silica, talc), surface modified
particles, pigments (e.g. metal oxides, interference pigment,
metallic pigment), oil-soluble dyes, and perfumes.
[0115] E. Aqueous Phase
[0116] The compositions of the present invention may include an
aqueous phase. The aqueous phase of the present invention
preferably comprises no more than about 90 weight percent of a
fluid, more preferably no more than about 85%, even more preferably
no more than about 80%. The aqueous phase of the present invention
preferably comprises at least about 10 weight percent of a fluid,
more preferably at least about 15%, even more preferably at least
about 20%. The term "fluid" as used herein means water, mono- and
polyhydric alcohols (glycerin, propylene glycol, ethanol,
isopropanol, etc.), or any liquid material which is water miscible.
The lipid phase described above may be on the surface and/or within
the domain of said aqueous phase. Also, the lipid phase may be one
visually distinct phase that is packaged in physical contact with
the aqueous phase while maintaining stability.
[0117] In one embodiment, there composition may not comprise an
aqueous phase. In absence of the aqueous phase, the product forms
include, but are not limited to, lipid based liquids and/or solid
bars.
[0118] The compositions of the present invention may include one or
more structurants in the aqueous phase. The structurant may act as
a thickener to increase the viscosity of the aqueous phase. The
structurant may also form vesicles or other structures to form
domains of water in the aqueous phase. The advantage of using an
aqueous phase structurant is to further decrease the mobility of
water, and as a result, lower the tendency of hydrophilic actives
to quickly partition into the aqueous phase. Because different
structurants may interact with the aqueous phase with different
efficiencies, it is difficult to provide an accurate compositional
range. However, when present, the composition preferably comprises
no more than about 20 weight percent, more preferably no more than
about 15 weight percent, and still more preferably no more than
about 10 weight percent of the personal care composition. When
present, the aqueous phase structurant preferably comprises at
least about 0.01 weight percent, more preferably at least about
0.05 weight percent, and still more preferably at least about 0.1
weight percent of the personal care composition.
[0119] Non-limiting examples of inorganic water structurants for
use in the personal care composition include silicas, clays such as
a synthetic silicates (Laponite XLG and Laponite XLS from Southern
Clay), or mixtures thereof.
[0120] Non-limiting examples of charged polymeric water
structurants for use in the personal care composition include
Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer (Stabylen 30 from 3V),
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR1 and TR2),
Carbomers, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
(Aristoflex AVC from Clariant), Ammonium
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
(Aristoflex HMB from Clariant), Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate
Copolymer (Structure 3001 from National Starch), Polyacrylamide
(Sepigel 305 from SEPPIC), or mixtures thereof.
[0121] Non-limiting examples of water soluble polymeric
structurants for use in the personal care composition include
cellulosic gel, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structured XL from
National Starch), polyvinyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
[0122] Nonlimiting examples of associative water structurants for
use in the personal care composition include xanthum gum, gellum
gum, pectin, alginate, or mixtures thereof.
[0123] Nonlimiting examples of associative water structurants for
use in the personal care composition include phospholipids (e.g.
lecithin), dialkylquats and other association structure forming
materials described above in the structurant for the hydrophilic
liquid section.
[0124] F. Optional Ingredients
[0125] The compositions of the present invention may contain one or
more additional skin care components in either the aqueous phase or
the lipid phase. In a preferred embodiment, where the composition
is to be in contact with human keratinous tissue, the additional
components should be suitable for application to keratinous tissue,
that is, when incorporated into the composition they are suitable
for use in contact with human keratinous tissue without undue
toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the
like within the scope of sound medical judgment.
[0126] The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992)
describes a wide variety of nonlimiting cosmetic and pharmaceutical
ingredients commonly used in the personal care industry, which are
suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention.
[0127] In any embodiment of the present invention, however, the
additional components useful herein can be categorized by the
benefit they provide or by their postulated mode of action.
However, it is to be understood that the additional components
useful herein can in some instances provide more than one benefit
or operate via more than one mode of action. Therefore,
classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are
not intended to limit the active to that particular application or
applications listed.
[0128] 1. Structurant for Lipid and/or Lipid Phase
[0129] The present invention may optionally comprise a lipid
structurant. The structurant can provide the dispersed phase with
the correct Theological properties. This can aid in providing
effective deposition and retention to the skin. The structured
lipid phase should have a viscosity in the range of from about 100
to about 200,000 poise measured at 1 Sec.sup.-1, preferably from
about 200 to about 100,000 poise, and even more preferably from
about 200 to about 50,000 poise, as determined using the Lipid
Rheology Method described below. The amount of structurant required
to produce this viscosity will vary depending on the oil and the
structurant, but in general, the structurant will preferably be
less than 75 weight percent of the dispersed lipid phase, more
preferably less than 50 weight percent, and still more preferably
less than 35 weight percent of the dispersed lipid phase.
[0130] The structurant can be either an organic or inorganic
structurant. Examples of organic thickeners suitable for the
invention include solid fatty acid esters, natural or modified
fats, fatty acid, fatty amine, fatty alcohol, natural and synthetic
waxes, and petrolatum, and the block copolymers sold under the name
KRATON by Shell. Inorganic structuring agents include
hydrophobically modified silica or hydrophobically modified clay.
Nonlimiting examples of inorganic structurants include BENTONE 27V,
BENTONE 38V or BENTONE GEL MIO V from Rheox; and CAB-O-SIL TS720 or
CAB-O-SIL M5 from Cabot Corporation.
[0131] Structurants meeting the above requirements with the
selected skin compatible oil can form a 3-dimensional network to
build up the viscosity of the selected oils. It has been found that
such structured lipid phases, i.e., built with the 3-dimensional
network, are extremely desirable for use as wet-skin treatment
compositions used in bathing. These structured oils can deposit and
be retained very effectively on wet skin and retained after rinsing
and drying to provide long-lasting after wash skin benefit without
causing a too oily/greasy wet and dry feel. It is believed that the
highly desirable in-use and after-use properties of such structured
oils are due to their shear thinning rheological properties and the
weak structure of the network. Due to its high low-shear viscosity,
the 3-dimensional network structured oil can stick and retain well
on the skin during application of the skin conditioner. After being
deposited on the skin, the network yields easily during rubbing due
to the weak structuring of the crystal network and its lower
high-shear viscosity.
[0132] 2. Surfactants
[0133] A wide variety of surfactants can be useful herein, both for
emulsification of the dispersed phase as well as to provide
acceptable spreading and in use properties for non-lathering
systems. For cleansing applications, the surfactant phase also
serves to clean the skin and provide an acceptable amount of lather
for the user. The composition preferably contains no more than
about 50 weight percent of a surfactant, more preferably no more
than about 30 weight percent, still more preferably no more than
about 15 weight percent, and even more preferably no more than
about 5 weight percent of a surfactant. The composition preferably
contains at least about 0.1 weight percent of a surfactant, more
preferably at least about 1 weight percent, still more preferably
at least about 3 weight percent, and even more preferably at least
about 5 weight percent of a surfactant. For cleansing applications
the personal care compositions preferably produces a Total Lather
Volume of at least 300 ml, more preferably greater than 600 ml as
described in the Lathering Volume Test. The personal care
compositions preferably produces a Flash Lather Volume of at least
100 ml, preferably greater than 200 ml, more preferably greater
than 300 ml as described in the Lathering Volume Test.
[0134] In one embodiment, the composition comprises an additional
aqueous phase that is a visually distinct phase that is packaged in
physical contact with the composition while maintaining stability.
The additional aqueous phase may comprise a surfactant. In this
embodiment, the hydrophilic liquid, structurant, surface active,
and lipid phase may be within the domain of one aqueous phase,
while the additional aqueous phase comprises a surfactant. The two
aqueous phases (one with the surfactant and one with the
hydrophilic liquid, structurant, surface active, and lipid phase)
may be visually distinct phases that are packaged in physical
contact and maintain stability.
[0135] Preferable surfactants include those selected from the group
consisting of anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric
surfactants, non-lathering surfactants, emulsifiers and mixtures
thereof. Non-limiting examples of surfactants useful in the
compositions of the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat.
No. 6,280,757.
[0136] a. Anionic Surfactants
[0137] Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants useful in the
compositions of the present invention are disclosed in
McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition
(1986), published by allured Publishing Corporation; McCutcheon's,
Functional Materials, North American Edition (1992); and U.S. Pat.
No. 3,929,678, to Laughlin et al., issued Dec. 30, 1975.
[0138] A wide variety of anionic surfactants are useful herein.
Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include those selected
from the group consisting of sarcosinates, sulfates, isethionates,
taurates, phosphates, lactylates, glutamates, and mixtures thereof.
Amongst the isethionates, the alkoyl isethionates are preferred,
and amongst the sulfates, the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates are
preferred.
[0139] Other anionic materials useful herein are fatty acid soaps
(i.e., alkali metal salts, e.g., sodium or potassium salts)
typically from a fatty acid having from about about 8 to about 24
carbon atoms, preferably from about 10 to about 20 carbon atoms.
These fatty acids used in making the soaps can be obtained from
natural sources such as, for instance, plant or animal-derived
glycerides (e.g., palm oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, castor oil,
tallow, lard, etc.) The fatty acids can also be synthetically
prepared. Soaps and their preparation are described in detail in
U.S. Pat. No. 4,557,853.
[0140] Other anionic materials include phosphates such as
monoalkyl, dialkyl, and trialkylphosphate salts. Non-limiting
examples of preferred anionic lathering surfactants useful herein
include those selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl
sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium
laureth sulfate, sodium trideceth sulfate, ammonium cetyl sulfate,
sodium cetyl sulfate, ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl
isethionate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, triethanolamine lauroyl
lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate,
sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium
lauroyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl methyl taurate, sodium
lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, and sodium cocoyl
glutamate and mixtures thereof.
[0141] Especially preferred for use herein are ammonium lauryl
sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate,
sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium
lauroyl lactylate, and triethanolamine lauroyl lactylate.
[0142] b. Non-Ionic Surfactants
[0143] Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants for use in the
compositions of the present invention are disclosed in
McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition
(1986), published by allured Publishing Corporation; and
McCutcheon's, Functional Materials, North American Edition
(1992).
[0144] Nonionic surfactants useful herein include those selected
from the group consisting of alkyl glucosides, alkyl
polyglucosides, polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, alkoxylated fatty
acid esters, sucrose esters, amine oxides, and mixtures
thereof.
[0145] Non-limiting examples of preferred nonionic surfactants for
use herein are those selected from the group consisting of
C.sub.8-C.sub.14 glucose amides, C.sub.8-C.sub.14 alkyl
polyglucosides, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, lauramine oxide,
cocoamine oxide and mixtures thereof.
[0146] c. Amphoteric Surfactants
[0147] The term "amphoteric surfactant," as used herein, is also
intended to encompass zwitterionic surfactants, which are well
known to formulators skilled in the art as a subset of amphoteric
surfactants.
[0148] A wide variety of amphoteric lathering surfactants can be
used in the compositions of the present invention. Particularly
useful are those which are broadly described as derivatives of
aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines, preferably wherein the
nitrogen is in a cationic state, in which the aliphatic radicals
can be straight or branched chain and wherein one of the radicals
contains an ionizable water solubilizing group, e.g., carboxy,
sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate.
[0149] Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants useful in
the compositions of the present invention are disclosed in
McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition
(1986), published by allured Publishing Corporation; and
McCutcheon's, Functional Materials, North American Edition
(1992).
[0150] Non-limiting examples of zwitterionic surfactants include
those selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultaines,
hydroxysultaines, alkyliminoacetates, imninodialkanoates,
aminoalkanoates, and mixtures thereof.
[0151] Preferred surfactants for use herein include the following,
wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from the group
consisting of ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium trideceth
sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, ammonium laureth sulfate,
sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl
sulfate, ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate,
sodium lauroyl isetlionate, sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium lauroyl
lactylate, triethanolamine lauroyl lactylate, and mixtures thereof,
wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group
consisting of lauramine oxide, cocoamine oxide, decyl polyglucose,
lauryl polyglucose, sucrose cocoate, C.sub.12-14 glucosamides,
sucrose laurate, and mixtures thereof; and wherein the amphoteric
surfactant is selected from the group consisting of disodium
lauroamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, cetyl dimethyl
betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl hydroxy sultaine,
and mixtures thereof.
[0152] d. Non-Lathering Surfactants
[0153] A wide variety of non-lathering surfactants are useful
herein. The composition of the present invention can comprise a
sufficient amount of one or more non-lathering surfactants to
emulsify the dispersed phase to yield an appropriate particle size
and good application properties on wet skin.
[0154] Nonlimiting examples of these non-lathering compositions
are: polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20),
polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2
methyl glucose ether distearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl
phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl
phosphate, Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate,
polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan
monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate,
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, steareth-20,
ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10,
diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100
stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0155] e. Emulsifier Systems
[0156] In addition, there are several emulsifier mixtures that are
useful in some embodiments. Examples include PROLIPID 141 (glyceryl
stearate, behenyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lecithin,
lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol) and 151
(Glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, 1-propanamium,
3-amino-N-(2-(hydroxyethyl)-N-N-Dim- ethyl,N-C(16-18) Acyl
Derivatives, Chlorides) from ISP; POLAWAX NF (Emulsifying wax NF),
and INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS (behentrimonium sulfate and cetearyl
alcohol) from Croda; and EMULLIUM DELTA (cetyl alcohol, glyceryl
stearate, peg-75 stearate, ceteth-20 and steareth-20) from
Gattefosse.
[0157] 3. Cationic Polymers
[0158] The present invention may also contain organic cationic
deposition polymer Concentrations of the cationic deposition
polymer preferably range from about 0.025% to about 3%, more
preferably from about 0.05% to about 2%, even more preferably from
about 0.1% to about 1%, by weight of the personal care
composition.
[0159] Suitable cationic deposition polymers for use in the present
invention contain cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such as
quaternary ammonium or cationic protonated amino moieties. The
cationic protonated amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary
amines (preferably secondary or tertiary) depending upon the
particular species and the selected pH of the personal cleansing
composition. The average molecular weight of the cationic
deposition polymer is between about 5,000 to about 10 million,
preferably at least about 100,000, more preferably at least about
200,000, but preferably not more than about 2 million, more
preferably not more than about 1.5 million. The polymers also have
a cationic charge density ranging from about 0.2 meq/gm to about 5
meq/gm, preferably at least about 0.4 meq/gm, more preferably at
least about 0.6 meq/gm, at the pH of intended use of the personal
cleansing composition, which pH will generally range from about pH
4 to about pH 9, preferably from about pH 5 and about pH 8.
[0160] Nonlimiting examples of cationic deposition polymers for use
in the personal care composition include polysaccharide polymers,
such as cationic cellulose derivatives. Preferred cationic
cellulose polymers are the salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted
with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the
industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10 which are available from
Amerchol Corp. in their Polymer KG, JR and LR series of polymers,
with a preferred being KG-30M.
[0161] Other suitable cationic deposition polymers include cationic
guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,
specific examples of which include the Jaguar series (preferably
Jaguar C-17) commercially available from Rhodia Inc., and N-Hance
polymer series commercially available from Aqualon.
[0162] Other suitable cationic deposition polymers include
synthetic cationic polymers. The cationic polymers suitable for use
in the cleansing composition herein are water soluble or
dispersible, non crosslinked, cationic polymers having a cationic
charge density of from about 4 meq/gm to about 7 meq/gm, preferably
from about 4 meq/gm to about 6 meq/gm, more preferably from about
4.2 meq/gm to about 5.5 meq/gm. The select polymers also may have
an average molecular weight of from about 1,000 to about 1 million,
preferably from about 10,000 to about 500,000, more preferably from
about 75,000 to about 250,000.
[0163] The concentration of the cationic polymer in the personal
care composition ranges from about 0.025% to about 5%, preferably
from about 0.1% to about 3%, more preferably from about 0.2% to
about 1%, by weight of the composition.
[0164] A non limiting example of a commercially available synthetic
cationic polymer for use in the cleansing compositions is
polymethyacrylamidopropyl trimonium chloride available under the
trade name POLYCARE 133, from Rhodia.
[0165] 4. Other Optional Ingredients
[0166] Other non limiting examples of optional ingredients include
benefit agents that are selected from the group consisting of
vitamins and derivatives thereof (e.g., ascorbic acid, vitamin E,
tocopheryl acetate, and the like); sunscreens; thickening agents
(e.g., polyol alkoxy ester, available as CROTHIX from Croda);
preservatives for maintaining the anti microbial integrity of the
cleansing compositions; anti-acne medicaments (resorcinol,
salicylic acid, and the like); antioxidants; skin soothing and
healing agents such as aloe vera extract, allantoin and the like;
chelators and sequestrants; and agents suitable for aesthetic
purposes such as fragrances, essential oils, skin sensates,
pigments, pearlescent agents (e.g., mica and titanium dioxide),
lakes, colorings, and the like (e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor,
eucalyptus oil, and eugenol), antibacterial agents and mixtures
thereof. These materials can be used at ranges sufficient to
provide the required benefit, as would be obvious to one skilled in
the art.
Method of Use
[0167] The personal care compositions of the present invention are
preferably applied topically to the desired area of the skin or
hair in an amount sufficient to provide effective delivery of the
product. The compositions can be applied directly to the skin or
hair or indirectly via the use of a cleansing puff, washcloth,
sponge or other implement. The compositions may be in the form of a
body wash, shampoo, conditioner, moisture rinse, mousse, substrate,
etc. The compositions are preferably diluted with water prior to,
during, or after topical application, and then subsequently the
skin or hair rinsed or dried off, preferably rinsed off of the
applied surface using water or a water-insoluble substrate in
combination with water.
[0168] The present invention is therefore also directed to methods
of cleansing the skin through the above-described application of
the compositions of the present invention. The methods of the
present invention are also directed to a method of providing
effective delivery of the desired skin benefit agent, and the
resulting benefits from such effective delivery as described
herein, to the applied surface through the above-described
application of the compositions of the present invention.
[0169] Compositions of the present invention may deposit at least
about 1 .mu.g/cm.sup.2 of said hydrophilic liquid on skin according
to the in vivo deposition method when the concentration of the
hydrophilic liquid is at least about 0.5% of the composition,
preferably at least about 1% of the composition, more preferably at
least about 5% of the composition. Compositions comprising less
than 0.5% of the hydrophilic liquid may also deposit at least about
1 .mu.g/cm.sup.2 of said hydrophilic liquid.
[0170] The present invention may also be useful in rinse-off
applications other than personal care compositions including pet
care, auto care, home care and medical applications.
Method of Making
[0171] The personal care compositions of the present invention may
be prepared by any known or otherwise effective technique suitable
for making and formulating emulsions and dispersions. It is
especially effective to use slow mixing techniques for mixing the
hydrophilic liquids with a structurant, mixing the structured
hydrophilic liquid with a surface active, and then mixing with the
lipid. Non-limiting mixing techniques include hand mixing or mixing
with mechanical mixers. For association structure forming
compositions, it may be necessary to allow the structured
hydrophilic liquids to sit for a few hours to form the structures.
Higher speed mixing is used for mixing the lipid phase with the
aqueous phase. Generally, the compositions are prepared at ambient
temperature/room temperature. The association structure forming
process will depend on the physical state of the surface active. If
the surface active is a solid or semisolid at ambient temperature,
it may be heated to melt and mixed with the hydrophilic liquid and
allowed to cool to ambient temperature.
Analytical Methods
[0172] 1. Lipid Rheology Method
[0173] Lipid rheology is measured on a TA Instruments AR2000
stress-controlled rheometer with a Peltier temperature controlled
sample stage or an equivalent. A parallel plate geometry is used
with a 40 mm plate and a 1 mm gap. The lower plate is heated to
85.degree. C. and the melted lipid and structurant (if present) is
added onto the lower plate and allowed to equilibrate. The upper
plate is then lowered to the 1 mm gap while ensuring the lipid
fills the gap fully, [spinning the top plate and adding more lipid
to promote wicking], and the sample is cooled quickly to 25.degree.
C. and equilibrated at 25.degree. C. for 5 minutes. Viscosity is
then measured using a stress-ramp procedure common on these types
of machines using a logarithmic stress ramp from 20 to 2000 Pa at a
rate of 60 seconds per decade (2 minute ramp test), with 20
measurements points per decade. The starting and ending stress is
sufficient to induce flow and reach a shear rate of at least 10
sec-1. Viscosity is recorded and the data fitted to a power law
model using Equation 1. Only points between 0.001 sec-1 and 40
seconds-1 are to be used in the power law fit. The viscosity at 1.0
sec-1 is calculated from Equation 1. One should carefully watch the
sample during the test so that when the material is ejected from
under the plate, the method is stopped.
[0174] Viscosities are recorded and the data fit to a power law
with the following Equation 1:
.eta.=.kappa..multidot..gamma.(dot).sup.(n-1)
[0175] where .eta.=viscosity, .kappa. is the consistency and
.gamma. (dot) is the shear rate, and n is the shear index.
[0176] The viscosity at 1 sec-1 is then calculated using the
calculated values of .kappa. and n from the fitted data.
[0177] 2. Stability Agent Viscosity Test
[0178] Polymeric stabilizer phase is formed using the ratio of
stabilizer to water that will be found in the particular
formulation of interest. For example, if the formulation contains 3
parts stabilizing polymer and 72 parts water, the ratio will be
1:24. The polymer is hydrated in the water phase at the appropriate
ratio. The method of hydration will vary depending upon the polymer
type, and may require high shear, heating, and/or neutralization.
In any event, the polymer should be properly hydrated according to
manufacturer's instructions. Once the polymer is fully hydrated,
the system is allowed to sit at room temperature for at least 24
hours. After the resting period, the viscosity of the stabilizer
phase is measured with a Brookfield or similar viscometer using a
cone and plate (Spindle 41 for a Brookfield model DV II+) geometry
at 1 sec-1 and 25.degree. C. 2 ml of the product is placed in the
cup of the viscometer and attached to the unit. The rotation is
started and after 2 minutes the viscosity is recorded.
[0179] 3. Lather Volume
[0180] Lather volume of a personal care composition can be measured
using a graduated cylinder and a tumbling apparatus. A 1,000 ml
graduated cylinder is chosen which is marked in 10 ml increments
and has a height of 14.5 inches at the 1,000 ml mark from the
inside of its base (for example, Pyrex No. 2982). Distilled water
(100 grams at 23.degree. C.) is added to the graduated cylinder.
The cylinder is clamped in a rotating device, which clamps the
cylinder with an axis of rotation that transects the center of the
graduated cylinder. One gram of the total personal care composition
is added into the graduated cylinder and the cylinder is capped.
The cylinder is rotated at a rate of 10 revolutions in about 20
seconds, and stopped in a vertical position to complete the first
rotation sequence. A timer is set to allow 30 seconds for the
lather thus generated to drain. After 30 seconds of such drainage,
the first lather volume is measured to the nearest 10 ml mark by
recording the lather height in ml up from the base (including any
water that has drained to the bottom on top of which the lather is
floating).
[0181] If the top surface of the lather is uneven, the lowest
height at which it is possible to see halfway across the graduated
cylinder is the first lather volume (ml). If the lather is so
coarse that a single or only a few foam cells ("bubbles") reach
across the entire cylinder, the height at which at least 10 foam
cells are required to fill the space is the first lather volume,
also in ml up from the base. Foam cells larger than one inch in any
dimension, no matter where they occur, are designated as unfilled
air instead of lather. Foam that collects on the top of the
graduated cylinder but does not drain is also incorporated in the
measurement if the foam on the top is in its own continuous layer,
by adding the ml of foam collected there using a ruler to measure
thickness of the layer, to the ml of foam measured up from the
base. The maximum foam height is 1,000 ml (even if the total foam
height exceeds the 1,000 ml mark on the graduated cylinder). One
minute after the first rotation is completed, a second rotation
sequence is commenced which is identical in speed and duration to
the first rotation sequence. The second lather volume is recorded
in the same manner as the first, after the same 30 seconds of
drainage time. A third sequence is completed and the third lather
volume is measured in the same manner, with the same pause between
each for drainage and taking the measurement.
[0182] The lather result after each sequence is added together and
the Total Lather Volume determined as the sum of the three
measurements, in ml. The Flash Lather Volume is the result after
the first rotation sequence only, in ml, i.e., the first lather
volume.
[0183] 4. Contact Angle Method
[0184] Use a hydrophobic [polyethylene terephthalate (PET)] and
hydrophilic [aluminum foil] surface to evaluate the wettability of
a given substance on either substrate. Determine the static contact
angles on a flat, smooth, clean piece of either aluminum foil (UHV
Foil from All Foils) or PET (Scotchpak 1022 from 3M) 3 times with
Millipore Milli-Q plus purified distilled water and 99% pure
diiodomethane (Sigma Aldrich) in a constant temperature (25.+-.1 C)
and constant humidity (relative humidity of 45.+-.2%) clean room
(positive pressure, air filtered). The contact angle method is
described below. Determine the contact angles of water and
diiodomethane (DIM) (1) on flat, smooth pieces of aluminum foil and
PET from pieces carefully removed from the packaging without
contaminating the surfaces; (2) after rinsing the pieces 3 times
with Millipore purified distilled water and blow drying with
ultra-pure (99.999%) nitrogen gas; and (3) after rinsing pieces 3
times with 99% pure toluene and blow drying with ultra-pure
nitrogen gas. The Pet or aluminum foil is clean if all three
determinations of contact angle agree to the following: (1) on PET:
greater or equal to 88.degree. for water and less than or equal to
45 for DIM and (2) on Aluminum Foil: less than or equal to
41.degree. for water and greater than or equal to 39.degree. for
DIM, and (3) there is no more than a 2-3 degree variance in the 3
sets of pooled measurements on PET or aluminum foil. The surfaces
of the aluminum foil and PET must be flat, smooth, chemically inert
(does not dissolve, swell within 30 minutes when in contact with
liquids being tested), and chemically homogeneous (functional
groups are uniformly dispersed across surface).
[0185] Use a Dynamic Contact Angle Analyzer (FT.ANG. 200, First Ten
Angstroms, Portsmouth, Va.). Use the equipment in a clean room kept
at 25.+-.1 degree C. and 45.+-.2% relative humidity on a vibration
free bench. Load Millipore purified distilled water or 99% pure
diiodomethane in aseptic chemically uncontaminated 10 mL syringes
with a 27 gauge aseptic, non-chemically contaminated stainless
steel blunt tip needles. Mount the syringe in the vertical position
with the needle pointing down. Dangle 7.+-.1 .mu.L of water or
4.+-.1 .mu.L of DIM from the tip of the needle using the pump
controls of FT.ANG. 200. Carefully lay a flat, smooth piece of PET
or aluminum foil on the z-stage directly below the needle. Use the
z-stage to carefully and slowly raise the surface of the PET or
aluminum foil until it gently touches the bottom of the dangling
drop. Illuminate the rear light to 80%. Acquire a focused image of
the drop at a 3 degree incline (look down) to the plane of the PET
or aluminum foil. Acquire the image after the drop equilibrated
(stopped spreading on the surface) or at 30 minutes for the highly
viscous materials (>20,000 cSt). Determine an aspherically
fitted contact angle for both sides of the drop. Report the average
value for both sides. Repeat the contact angle determinations 3
times on separate sections of aluminum foil or PET for each
compound tested.
1TABLE 1 Examples of contact angles of compounds determined on
aluminum foil and PET. Contact Angle (degrees) Compound Aluminum
Foil PET Lecithin 20.3 18.9 Abil EM 90 10.9 18.5 Silicone 200
Fluid, 5,000 cSt 11.6 27.7 Silicone 200 Fluid, 330,000 cSt 28.3
36.0 Aminosilicone TSF 4707 14.8 17.8 Isopropyl myristate 13.8
13.2
[0186] If the material exiting the needle does not form a drop but
retains the shape of the orifice of the needle, then the material
is spread into an even, smooth, thick (1-2 mm) film on a glass
microscope slide. 4 .mu.L of 99% pure DIM and 7-.mu.L Millipore
purified distilled water are applied to the film in a manner
identical to the method describing the determination of contact
angles on PET or aluminum foil above. Static contact angles for DIM
and water spreading on the films are determined after the fluids
have stopped spreading--usually within 30 seconds.
[0187] 5. In-Vivo Deposition Method for Hydrophilic Actives
[0188] Method for measuring hydrophilic actives on skin--apply
product containing hydrophilic benefit agent (analyte) to the inner
forearm according to the following procedure:
[0189] Rinse the forearm from the elbow to the wrist for 5 seconds
using 35.degree. C. city water at a flow rate of 50-60 mL/sec.
Apply 1.0 mL of liquid soap or the lather from a wetted soap bar
rotated in both hands for 6 full rotations to the entire inner
forearm using 10 full back and forth strokes. Rinse the lather from
the forearm for 10 seconds. Rub 1.0 mL of product onto the inner
forearm for 10 seconds. Leave the product on the forearm for 10
seconds. Rinse the forearm with water for 10 seconds. Gently pat
the forearm dry with a clean, dry paper towel.
[0190] Recover deposited analyte from the forearm by using the
following tape-stripping procedure. Firmly place D-Squame tape
(22-mm diameter, CuDerm Corporation) on the inner forearm at least
2 inches from the elbow crease. Remove the tape strip with clean
Teflon-coated tweezers and place in its own individual pre-labeled
container (e.g., a disposable petri dish) with the adhesive side of
the tape facing up. Place subsequent tapes firmly on the same spot
and collect in the same manner until a total of 10 tapes are
collected per site. Extract additional areas and pool if necessary
to meet the sensitivity limits of the chromatography or
electrophoretic method.
[0191] Use extraction solvent(s) to quantitatively extract (greater
than or equal to 95% recovery) the analyte from the tape. Use
either (1) a single solvent or solution of miscible solvents to
extract the analyte from the 10 tapes pooled in a container without
also extracting components from the adhesive which interfere with
the analyte or internal standard bands in the chromatography or
electrophoresis or (2) use 2 or more immiscible solvents or
solutions of solvents which both extract the analyte from the tape
and partition the analyte in a phase separate from the components
of the adhesive that interfere with the analyte or internal
standard bands used in the chromatography or electrophoresis
described below. Employ sonication or vibration to improve analyte
extraction. If the analyte is not lost or decomposed, several
collection sites can be pooled and concentrated by evaporation at
ambient, sub-ambient, or elevated temperature with or without a
vacuum, or with or without a greater than or equal to 99.999% pure
gas blow down in order to increase the total amount of analyte
recovered.
[0192] Use a chromatography or capillary electrophoretic system
with appropriate detector that produces adequate sensitivity
(signal to noise ratio greater than or equal to 10 for analyte
levels at the levels extracted from skin) and selectivity (baseline
resolution, or no mass/charge band overlap or no radioactive
counting interference--depending on the type of detector employed)
between the analyte or internal standard bands and other bands
associated with the components from the skin, tape strip adhesive,
or product in order to accurately quantitate the analyte (greater
than or equal to 95% confidence limit) when the instrument is
functioning properly (passes system suitability criteria from the
manufacturer's operating instructions or the current USP (U.S.
Pharmacopeia) for chromatographic methods). Sensitivity for the
analytes should be 80-120% of the levels deposited on the skin.
Internal standards are compounds with similar chemical and physical
properties to the hydrophilic benefit agent(s) which (1) do not
coelute or interfere with mass/charge bands or interfere with the
radioactive counting of the hydrophilic benefit agent bands; and
(2) elute close to the hydrophilic benefit agent bands. Proper
functioning would also produce the following 2 conditions if
present in the chromatographic or electrophoretic system: (1) The %
RSD (relative standard deviation) of the retention time is less
than or equal to 2.0% for six sequential injections of the
analyte(s) and internal standard; and (2) a minimum correlation
coefficient between analyte band response (normalized to internal
standard) and concentration of analyte of 0.99 for a minimum of 5
point external calibration curve. Two examples of chromatographic
methods are given below:
EXAMPLE 1
Glycerin as the Hydrophilic Benefit Agent
[0193] Add 1 mL of 0.01 N aqueous H.sub.2SO.sub.4 and 9 mL methanol
to the container containing the tape strips, vortex for 1 minute,
sonicate for 10 minutes, allow to stand for 30 minutes, and filter
using a 0.45 .mu.m pore syringe filter. Concentrate the filtrate
using a gentle nitrogen purge to 1 mL total volume. Use a high
performance liquid chromatography (HPLC, Model 2595, Waters Corp.,
Milford, Mass.) with a differential refractometer detector (Model
2414, Waters Corp.) employing the following conditions: IOA-1000
column (300 mm.times.7.8 mm, Alltech Associates, Inc, Deerfield,
Ill.) at 65.degree. C. with an isocratic flow rate at 0.6 ml
min.sup.-1 of 0.01 N aqueous H.sub.2SO.sub.4 and 10 .mu.L injection
volume.
EXAMPLE 2
Dihydroxyacetone as the Hydrophilic Benefit Agent
[0194] Add 1 mL of 0.005 N aqueous H.sub.2SO.sub.4 and 9 mL
methanol to the container containing the tape strips, vortex for 1
minute, sonicate for 10 minutes, allow to stand for 30 minutes, and
filter using a 0.45 .mu.m pore syringe filter. Concentrate the
filtrate using a gentle nitrogen purge to 1 mL total volume. Use an
HPLC (Model 2595, Waters Corp.) with a differential refractometer
detector (Model 2414, Waters Corp.) employing the following
conditions: IOA-1000 column (300 mm.times.7.8 mm, Alltech
Associates, Inc.) at 65.degree. C. with an isocratic flow rate at
0.6 ml min.sup.-1 of 0.005 N aqueous H.sub.2SO.sub.4 and 40 .mu.L
injection volume.
[0195] 6. Identification of Association Structures
[0196] Association structure formation may be identified using one
or more of several identification techniques. The onset of
association structure formation and the occurrence of a
substantially one phase liquid crystal state for a particular
surface active and hydrophilic liquid system can be identified by:
1) visual observation with the naked eye; 2) birefringent optical
activity observed by polarized light microscopy; 3) measurement of
the surface active/hydrophilic liquid system NMR spectra; 4)
measurement of apparent viscosity profile; 5) presence of a
characteristic "texture" pattern observable under cryo Scanning
Electron Microscopy (cryo-SEM) and/or Freeze-Fractured Transmission
Electron Microscopy (FF-TEM); 6) x-ray diffraction. These methods
are described in more detail in U.S. Pat. No. 5,599,555.
NON-LIMITING EXAMPLES
[0197] The compositions illustrated in the following Examples
exemplify specific embodiments of the compositions of the present
invention, but are not intended to be limiting thereof. Other
modifications can be undertaken by the skilled artisan without
departing from the spirit and scope of this invention. These
exemplified embodiments of the composition of the present invention
provide enhanced deposition of the personal care composition. The
compositions illustrated in the following Examples are prepared by
conventional formulation and mixing methods, an example of which is
described above. All exemplified amounts are listed as weight
percents and exclude minor materials such as diluents,
preservatives, color solutions, imagery ingredients, botanicals,
and so forth, unless otherwise specified.
Examples 1-10
[0198]
2 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. 10
Ingredient wt % wt % wt % wt % wt % wt % wt % wt % wt % wt % I.
Aqueous Phase Composition Hydroxypropyl 3.5 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5
3.5 3.5 3.5 Starch Phosphate (Structure XL from National Starch)
Emulsifying Wax NF 2.75 3.0 2.75 2.75 2.5 2.75 2.75 2.75 (Polawax
from Croda) Behenetrimonium 2.25 2.0 methosulfate and cetearyl
alcohol (Incroquat Behenyl TMS from Croda) Fragrance 1.0 1.0 1.0
1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Preservatives 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8
0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Water Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.
Q.S. II. Lipid Composition Petrolatum 12 20 12 14 24 15 20 13 20
(Superwhite Protopet from WITCO) Mineral Oil 10 2 13 (Hydrobrite
1000 PO White MO from WITCO) III. Structured Hydrophilic Phase
Composition Dimethicone Fluid 1.2 (Dow Corning Silicone Fluid
60,000 cst) Lecithin Thermolec .TM. 9.0 10 8 10 200 (ADM Specialty
Ingredients) Monomuls 90 L-12 3.5 1.5 (Cognis Co.) Monomuls 90-O18
3.5 1.5 3.0 (Cognis Co.) Generol 122 N E-5 3.0 (Cognis Co.) Abil EM
90 9.0 (Degussa) Silica Shells (KOBO 1.2 1.0 1.2 products)
Hubersorb 600 (J. M. 1.5 Huber Corporation) Water Lock G-580 1.2
(Grain Processing Corporation Zil Gel SM 8.0 (Presperse
Incorporated) Kosher Superol 7.8 8.1 7.8 7.5 4.2 7.0 7.0 8.0 7.0
Glycerin (Procter & Gamble Co.) Niacinamide 5.5 Water 4.2
Examples 11-12
[0199]
3 Ex. 11 Ex. 12 Ingredient wt % wt % I. Aqueous Phase Composition
Hydroxypropyl 3.5 3.5 Starch Phosphate (Structure XL from National
Starch) Emulsifying Wax NF 2.75 2.75 (Polawax from Croda)
Behenetrimonium methosulfate and cetearyl alcohol (Incroquat
Behenyl TMS from Croda) Fragrance 1.0 1.0 Preservatives 0.8 0.8
Water Q.S. Q.S. II. Lipid Composition Petrolatum 20 19 (Superwhite
Protopet from WITCO) Mineral Oil (Hydrobrite 1000 PO White MO from
WITCO) III. Structured Hydrophilic Phase Composition Generol 122 N
E-5 1.1 3.0 (Cognis Co.) Monomuls 90 L-12 3.0 (Cognis Co.) Monomuls
90-O18 2.0 (Cognis Co.) Kosher Superol 1.0 Glycerin (Procter &
Gamble Co.) Dihydroxyacetone 5.5 5.5 (Merck KGaA) Water 3.0 2.1
[0200] Prepare the personal care composition of Examples 1-12 by
conventional formulation and mixing techniques.
[0201] Prepare the aqueous phase composition by first dispersing
the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in water. Add emulsifying wax
and heat to 160.degree. F. (71.1.degree. C.). Next, place the
mixing vessel in a water bath to cool to under 100.degree. F.
(37.78.degree. C.). Add fragrance.
[0202] Prepare the structured hydrophilic phase by first premixing
the hydrophilic liquid with the structurant if necessary (i.e. not
already pre-mixed by the supplier). Mix the mixture with the
surface active.
[0203] Mix the structured hydrophilic phase with the lipid. If the
lipid is a solid or semi-solid, it is preferable to add the
internal structured hydrophilic phase to melt lipid.
[0204] Add the premix of the lipid phase to the aqueous phase and
mix via conventional mixing techniques.
Examples 13-14
[0205]
4 Ex 13 Ex 14 Ingredient wt % wt % I. Cleansing Phase Composition
Miracare SLB-365 (from Rhodia) 47.4 47.4 (Sodium Trideceth Sulfate,
Sodium Lauramphoacetate, Cocamide MEA) Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium
Chloride 0.7 0.7 (N-Hance 3196 from Aqualon) PEG 90M (Polyox WSR
301 from Dow Chemical) 0.2 0.2 Sodium Chloride 3.5 3.5
Preservatives 0.84 0.84 Citric Acid 0.4 0.4 Perfume 2.0 2.0
Expancel 091 DE 40 d30 (from Expancel, Inc.) 0.4 0.4 Water Q.S.
Q.S. (pH) (6.0) (6.0) II. Lipid Composition Petrolatum (Superwhite
Protopet from WITCO) 62.4 62.4 Mineral Oil (Hydrobrite 1000 PO
White MO from WITCO) 20.8 20.8 III. Structured hydrophilic phase
composition Lecithin Thermolec .TM. 200 (ADM Specialty Ingredients)
8.0 Silica Shells (KOBO products) 1.0 Monomuls 90 L-12 (Cognis Co.)
3.5 Monomuls 90-O18 (Cognis Co.) 3.5 Kosher Superol Glycerin
(Procter & Gamble Co.) 7.8 10.0
[0206] Prepare the composition described above by conventional
formulation and mixing techniques. Prepare the cleansing phase
composition by first adding citric acid into water at a 1:3 ratio
to form a citric acid premix. Add the following ingredients into
the main mixing vessel in the following sequence: water, Miracare
SLB-354, sodium chloride, and preservatives. Start agitation of the
main mixing vessel. In a separate mixing vessel, disperse polymer
(N-Hance 3196) in water at 1:10 ratio to form a polymer premix. Add
the completely dispersed polymer premix into the main mixing vessel
with continuous agitation. Disperse PEG 90M (Polyox WSR 301) in
water and then add to the main mixing vessel. Then, add the rest of
the water, perfume, and Expancel into the batch. Keep agitating
until a homogenous solution forms.
[0207] Prepare the structured hydrophilic phase by first premixing
the hydrophilic liquid with the structurant if necessary (i.e. not
already pre-mixed by the supplier). Mix the mixture with the
surface active.
[0208] Prepare the lipid phase by adding petrolatum into a mixing
vessel. Heat the vessel to 190.degree. F. (87.78.degree. C.). Then,
add mineral oil with agitation. Add the structured hydrophilic
phase with agitation.
[0209] The cleansing and lipid phases are density matched to within
0.05 g/cm.sup.3. Package both phases into a single container using
conventional toothpaste-tube filler equipment. The sample stage
spins the bottle during filling process to create a striped
appearance. The stripe size is about 6 mm in width and 100 mm in
length.
Example 15
[0210]
5 Ingredient wt % I. Phase 1 Ammonium Laureth-3 Sulfate (25%
Active) 46.7 Citric Acid Anhydrous 1.76 Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
(27%) 43.47 Trihydroxystearin (Thixcin R from Rheox) 2.35
Preservatives 1.73 Lauric Acid 2.35 Petrolatum 1.64 II. Phase 2
Ammonium Laureth-3 Sulfate 18 Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (25% Active)
12 Phase 1 42.6 Fragrance 1.0 Premix 1 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium
Chloride 0.3 (N-Hance 3196 from Aqualon) Water QS Premix 2
Petrolatum 15 Monomuls 90-O18 (Cognis Co.) 4 Kosher Superol
Glycerin (Procter & Gamble Co.) 7
[0211] Prepare the composition described above by conventional
formulation and mixing techniques. Prepare phase 1 by first adding
citric acid into the ammonium laureth-3 sulfate. Once the citric
acid is full dissolved, add the sodium lauroamphoacetate. Heat the
mixture to 190-195.degree. F. Incorporate the trihydroxystearin
fully and then add preservatives. Continue to mix as petrolatum is
added. Prepare phase 2 in a separate mixing vessel. Add ammonium
laureth-3 sulfate then ammonium lauryl sulfate to mixing vessel in
a water bath. To this vessel add Phase 1 with continuous mixing.
Premix the guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and water (Premix
1). Add Premix 1 to mixing vessel. Prepare premix 2 by mixing
petrolatum and the premix of Monomuls 90-O18 with glycerin in a
separate mixing vessel. Heat the vessel to 190.degree. F. Then, add
Premix 2 to Phase 2. Then add perfume. Keep agitating until a
homogenous solution forms.
Examples 16-18
[0212]
6 Example Example Example 16 17 18 Ingredient wt % wt % wt % I.
Additional Aqueous Phase Composition Miracare SLB-365 (from Rhodia)
47.4 47.4 47.4 (Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Sodium Lauramphoacetate,
Cocamide MEA) Cocamide MEA 3.0 3.0 3.0 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium
0.7 0.7 0.7 Chloride (N-Hance 3196 from Aqualon) PEG 90M (Polyox
WSR 301 from 0.2 0.2 0.2 Dow Chemical) Glycerin 0.8 0.8 0.8 Sodium
Chloride 3.5 3.5 3.5 Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 0.05 Glydant 0.67 0.67
0.67 Citric Acid 0.4 0.4 0.4 Perfume 2.0 2.0 2.0 Red 7 Ca Lake 0.01
0.01 0.01 (From LCW) Water Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. (pH) (6.0) (6.0) (6.0) II
Aqueous phase composition Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate 1.0 1.0 1.0
Crosspolymer (Stabylen 30 from 3V) Xanthan gum 1.0 1.0 1.0 (Keltrol
CGT from CP Kelco) Triethanolamine 1.5 1.5 1.5 Sodium Chloride 3.5
3.5 3.5 Glydant 0.37 0.37 0.37 Water and Minors Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. (pH)
(6.0) (6.0) (6.0) III. Lipid Composition Petrolatum (Superwhite
Protopet 10 10 from WITCO) Mineral Oil (Hydrobrite 1000 PO 15 White
MO from WITCO) III. Lipid Composition Petrolatum (Superwhite
Protopet 10 10 from WITCO) Mineral Oil (Hydrobrite 1000 PO 15 White
MO from WITCO) IV. Structured Hydrophilic phase Composition
Monomuls-90-O18 (Cognis Co.) 3.5 2.0 3.0 Monomuls 90-L12 (Cognis
Co.) 3.5 3.0 Kosher Superol Glycerin (Procter & 7.0 5.0 7.0
Gamble Co.) Niacinamide 5.5
[0213] The compositions described above can be prepared by
conventional formulation and mixing techniques. Prepare the
additional aqueous phase composition by forming the following
premixes: add citric acid into water at 1:1 ratio to form a citric
acid premix, add polyox WSR-301 into glycerin at 1:3 ratio to form
a polyox-glycerin premix, and add cosmetic pigment into glycerin at
1:20 ratio to form a pigment-glycerin premix and mix well using a
high shear mixer. Then, add the following ingredients in the main
mixing vessel in the following sequence: water, N-Hance 3196,
polyox premix, citric acid premix, disodium EDTA, and Miracare
SLB-365. Mix for 30 minutes, then begin heating the batch to
approximately 49 degrees C. Add CMEA and mix until homogeneous.
Then, cool the batch to ambient temperature and add the following
ingredients: sodium chloride, glydant, cosmetic pigment premix and
perfume. Mix the batch for 60 minutes. Check pH and adjust pH using
citric acid or caustic solution if needed.
[0214] Prepare the structured hydrophilic phase by first premixing
the hydrophilic liquid with the structurant if necessary (i.e. not
already pre-mixed by the supplier). Mix the mixture with the
surface active.
[0215] Mix the structured hydrophilic phase with the lipid. If the
lipid is a solid or semi-solid, it is preferable to add the
structured hydrophilic phase to the lipid.
[0216] Add the premix of the lipid phase to the aqueous phase and
mix via conventional mixing techniques.
[0217] Prepare the aqueous phase by slowly adding Stabylene 30 into
water with continuous mixing. Then, add Keltrol CG-T. Heat the
batch to 85 degrees C. with continuous agitation. Then, add lipid
phase containing the structured hydrophilic phase. Cool down the
batch to ambient temperature. Then, add Triethanolamine. Add sodium
chloride, glydant and mix until homogeneous.
[0218] The aqueous phase and the additional aqueous phases can be
combined by first placing the separate phases in separate storage
tanks having a pump and a hose attached. Then, pump the phases in
predetermined amounts into a single combining section. Next, move
the phases from the combining sections into the blending sections
and mix the phases in the blending section such that the single
resulting product exhibits a distinct pattern of the phases,
including but not limited to, striped, marbled, geometric, and
mixtures thereof. Next, pump the product from the blending section
via a hose into a single nozzle, then place the nozzle into a
container and fill the container with the resulting product. The
stripe size is about 6 mm in width and 100 mm in length. The
products remain stable at ambient for at least 180 days.
[0219] All documents cited in the Background, Summary of the
Invention, and Detailed Description of the Invention are, in
relevant part, incorporated herein by reference; the citation of
any document is not to be construed as an admission that it is
prior art with respect to the present invention. To the extent that
any meaning or definition of a term in this written document
conflicts with any meaning or definition of the term in a document
incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to
the term in this written document shall govern.
[0220] While particular embodiments of the present invention have
been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those
skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can
be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the
invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims
all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of
this invention.
* * * * *