U.S. patent application number 11/097371 was filed with the patent office on 2005-10-13 for nanoemulsions comprising at least one amphiphilic lipid, at least one oil, and at least one nonionic polymer, and uses thereof.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL S.A.. Invention is credited to Aubrun, Odile, Cazin, Benedicte, Douin, Veronique, Simonnet, Jean-Thierry.
Application Number | 20050226842 11/097371 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 8846177 |
Filed Date | 2005-10-13 |
United States Patent
Application |
20050226842 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Douin, Veronique ; et
al. |
October 13, 2005 |
Nanoemulsions comprising at least one amphiphilic lipid, at least
one oil, and at least one nonionic polymer, and uses thereof
Abstract
Oil-in-water nanoemulsions comprising oil globules with an
average size of less than 150 nm and comprising at least one oil,
at least one amphiphilc lipid, and at least one nonionic polymer
comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one
hydrophilic block. Processes comprising such oil-in-water
nanoemulsions.
Inventors: |
Douin, Veronique; (Paris,
FR) ; Cazin, Benedicte; (Clichy, FR) ;
Simonnet, Jean-Thierry; (Paris, FR) ; Aubrun,
Odile; (Paris, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
Thomas L. Irving
FINNEGAN, HENDERSON, FARABOW,
GARRETT & DUNNER, L.L.P.
1300 I Street, N.W.
Washington
DC
20005-3315
US
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL S.A.
|
Family ID: |
8846177 |
Appl. No.: |
11/097371 |
Filed: |
April 4, 2005 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
11097371 |
Apr 4, 2005 |
|
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|
09766403 |
Jan 22, 2001 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.28 ;
424/61 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/06 20130101; A61K
2800/21 20130101; A61K 8/37 20130101; A61K 8/87 20130101; A61K
8/8152 20130101; A61K 8/416 20130101; A61K 8/922 20130101; A61K
8/8182 20130101; A61Q 5/12 20130101; A61K 8/44 20130101; A61K 8/898
20130101; B82Y 5/00 20130101; A61K 8/737 20130101; A61Q 5/00
20130101; A61K 8/731 20130101; A61P 17/00 20180101; A61K 8/86
20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/070.28 ;
424/061 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/04; A61K
007/075; A61K 007/08 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jan 21, 2000 |
FR |
00 00793 |
Claims
1. An oil-in-water nanoemulsion comprising oil globules with an
average size of less than 150 nm comprising at least one oil, at
least one amphiphilic lipid, and at least one nonionic polymer
comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one
hydrophilic block.
2. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
oil and said at least one amphiphilic lipid are present in amounts
wherein the weight ratio of the amount of said at least one oil to
the amount of said at least one amphiphilic lipid ranges from 1:1
to 10:1.
3. A nanoemulsion according to claim 2, wherein said weight ratio
ranges from 1.2:1 to 6:1.
4. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said oil globules
have an average size ranging from 30 nm to 100 nm.
5. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
nonionic polymer is chosen from water-soluble nonionic polymers and
water-dispersible nonionic polymers.
6. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
nonionic polymer comprises at least two hydrophobic blocks.
7. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
hydrophobic block is chosen from fatty chains comprising from 6 to
30 carbon atoms, divalent aliphatic groups, divalent cycloaliphatic
groups and divalent aromatic groups.
8. A nanoemulsion according to claim 7, wherein said fatty chains
comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms are chosen from alkyl chains,
arylalkyl chains, alkylaryl chains and alkenyl chains.
9. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
hydrophilic block is chosen from polyethylene oxides,
polysaccharides, polyamides, and polyesters.
10. A nanoemulsion according to claim 9, wherein said polyamides
are chosen from polyacrylamides.
11. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
hydrophobic block and said at least one hydrophilic block are
bonded with at least one linking group chosen from ester, ether,
urea, amide and urethane linkers.
12. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
hydrophilic block and said at least one hydrophobic block are
present in amounts wherein the weight ratio of the amount of said
at least one hydrophilic block to the amount of said at least one
hydrophobic block ranges from 10:1 to 1000:1.
13. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
nonionic polymer is chosen from: (1) celluloses modified with at
least one group comprising at least one hydrophobic chain; (2)
hydroxypropylguars modified by at least one group comprising at
least one C.sub.10-C.sub.30 fatty chain; (3)
polyether-polyurethanes comprising in their chain at least one
polyoxyethylenated hydrophilic block and at least one hydrophobic
block chosen from aliphatic chains, cycloaliphatic chains, and
aromatic chains; (4) copolymers formed from vinylpyrrolidone and at
least one hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one fatty chain;
(5) copolymers formed from at least one C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl
methacrylate and at least one amphiphilic monomer comprising at
least one fatty chain and copolymers formed from at least one
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl acrylate and at least one amphiphilic monomer
comprising at least one fatty chain; and (6) copolymers formed from
at least one hydrophilic methacrylate and at least one hydrophobic
monomer comprising at least one fatty chain and copolymers formed
from at least one hydrophilic acrylate and at least one hydrophobic
monomer comprising at least one fatty chain.
14. A nanoemulsion according to claim 13, wherein said
polyether-polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic
hydrocarbon chains comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated
by a hydrophilic block, wherein said hydrocarbon chains are chosen
from pendant chains and chains at the end of a hydrophilic
block.
15. A nanoemulsion according to claim 13, wherein said
polyether-polyurethanes are multiblock polymers.
16. A nanoemulsion according to claim 13, wherein said
polyether-polyurethanes are triblock polymers.
17. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
nonionic polymer comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at
least one hydrophilic block is present in an amount ranging from
0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
18. A nanoemulsion according to claim 17, wherein said at least one
nonionic polymer comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at
least one hydrophilic block is present in an amount ranging from
0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
19. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
amphiphilic lipid is chosen from nonionic amphiphilic lipids and
anionic amphiphilic lipids.
20. A nanoemulsion according to claim 19, wherein said nonionic
amphiphilic lipids are chosen from: 1/--silicone surfactants,
2/--nonionic amphiphilic lipids that are fluid at a temperature of
less than or equal to 45.degree. C. chosen from esters formed from
(i) at least one polyol chosen from polyethylene glycol comprising
from 1 to 60 ethylene oxide units, sorbitan, glycerol comprising
from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and polyglycerols comprising
from 2 to 15 glycerol units, and (ii) at least one fatty acid
comprising at least one alkyl chain chosen from saturated and
unsaturated, linear and branched C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl chains,
3/--mixed esters derived from (i) at least one fatty acid, at least
one carboxylic acid, and glycerol, and mixed esters derived from
(ii) at least one fatty alcohol, at least one carboxylic acid, and
glycerol, wherein said at least one carboxylic acid is chosen from
.alpha.-hydroxy acids and succinic acid, 4/--fatty acid esters of
sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, 5/--surfactants that are
solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45.degree. C.
chosen from fatty esters of glycerol, fatty esters of sorbitan,
oxyethylenated fatty esters of sorbitan, ethoxylated fatty ethers,
and ethoxylated fatty esters, and 6/--block copolymers of ethylene
oxide (A) and of propylene oxide (B).
21. A nanoemulsion according to claim 19, wherein said nonionic
amphiphilic lipids are chosen from: polyethylene glycol isostearate
comprising 8 ethylene oxide units, diglyceryl isostearate,
polyglyceryl monolaurate, polyglyceryl monostearate, and
polyglyceryl distearate which comprise 10 glycerol units, sorbitan
oleate, and sorbitan isostearate.
22. A nanoemulsion according to claim 19, wherein said anionic
amphiphilic lipids are chosen from: alkyl ether citrates,
alkoxylated alkenyl succinates, alkoxylated glucose alkenyl
succinates, and alkoxylated methylglucose alkenyl succinates.
23. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
amphiphilic lipid is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 15%
by weight relative to the total weight of the nanoemulsion.
24. A nanoemulsion according to claim 23, wherein said at least one
amphiphilic lipid is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 8% by
weight relative to the total weight of the nanoemulsion.
25. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1 further comprising at least
one ionic amphiphilic lipid chosen from cationic amphiphilic lipids
and anionic amphiphilic lipids chosen from: alkaline salts of
dicetyl phosphate and of dimyristyl phosphate; alkaline salts of
cholesteryl sulfate; alkaline salts of cholesteryl phosphate;
lipoamino acids and salts thereof; sodium salts of phosphatidic
acid; phospholipids; and alkylsulfonic derivatives of formula: 16in
which R, which may be identical or different in embodiments wherein
more than one of said alkylsulfonic derivative is used, is chosen
from C.sub.16-C.sub.22 alkyl groups, and M is chosen from alkali
metals and alkaline-earth metals.
26. A nanoemulsion according to claim 25, wherein said lipoamino
acids and salts thereof are chosen from monosodium and disodium
acylglutamates.
27. A nanoemulsion according to claim 26, wherein said lipoamino
acids and salts thereof are chosen from the disodium salt of
N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid.
28. A nanoemulsion according to claim 25, wherein said R is chosen
from C.sub.16H.sub.33 and C.sub.18H.sub.37 groups.
29. A nanoemulsion according to claim 25, wherein said M is
sodium.
30. A nanoemulsion according to claim 25, wherein said cationic
amphiphilic lipids are chosen from: A) quaternary ammonium salts of
formula (IV): 17in which: R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3, and R.sub.4,
which may be identical or different, are each chosen from: linear
and branched aliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms
and optionally comprising atoms chosen from hetero and halogen
atoms, and aromatic groups, and X.sup.- is an anion chosen from
halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C.sub.2-C.sub.6)alkyl
sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates; B) quaternary
ammonium salts of imidazolinium of formula (V): 18in which: R.sub.5
is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl groups comprising from 8 to 30
carbon atoms, R.sub.6 is chosen from a hydrogen atom,
C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl groups, and alkenyl and alkyl groups
comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R.sub.7 is chosen from
C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl groups, R.sub.8 is chosen from a hydrogen
atom and C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl groups, and X.sup.- is an anion
chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl
sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates; C)
diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI): 19in which: R.sub.9 is
chosen from aliphatic groups comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms,
R.sub.10, R.sub.11, R.sub.12, R.sub.13 and R.sub.14, which may be
identical or different, are each chosen from a hydrogen atom and
alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X.sup.- is an
anion chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and
methyl sulfates; and D) quaternary ammonium salts comprising at
least one ester function chosen from said quaternary ammonium salts
of formula (VII): 20in which: R.sub.15 is chosen from
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl groups, C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl groups
and C.sub.1-C.sub.6 dihydroxyalkyl groups; R.sub.16 is chosen from:
acyl groups of the following formula: 21wherein R.sub.19 is defined
below, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated,
C.sub.1-C.sub.22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and a hydrogen atom;
R.sub.18 is chosen from: acyl groups of the following formula:
22wherein R.sub.21 is defined below, linear and branched, saturated
and unsaturated, C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydrocarbon-based groups, and a
hydrogen atom; R.sub.17, R.sub.19 and R.sub.21, which may be
identical or different, are each chosen from linear and branched,
saturated and unsaturated, C.sub.7-C.sub.21 hydrocarbon-based
groups; n, p and r, which may be identical or different, are each
chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is chosen from integers
ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different,
are each chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10; X.sup.- is
chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; and
provided that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, and that when x is 0,
then R.sub.16 is chosen from linear and branched, saturated and
unsaturated, C.sub.1-C.sub.22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and that
when z is 0, then R.sub.18 is chosen from linear and branched,
saturated and unsaturated, C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydrocarbon-based
groups.
31. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said aromatic
groups are chosen from aryl and alkylaryl groups.
32. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said hetero atoms
are chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, and sulfur.
33. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said aliphatic
groups are chosen from alkyl, alkoxy,
polyoxy(C.sub.2-C.sub.6)alkylene, alkylamide,
(C.sub.12-C.sub.22)alkylamido(C.sub.2-C.sub.6)alkyl,
(C.sub.12-C.sub.22)alkylacetate, and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising
from 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
34. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said alkenyl and
alkyl groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms are chosen from
groups derived from tallow fatty acid.
35. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said diquaternary
ammonium salts of formula (VI) comprise propane tallow diammonium
dichloride.
36. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said R.sub.15
alkyl groups are chosen from linear and branched alkyl groups.
37. A nanoemulsion according to claim 36, wherein said R.sub.15
alkyl groups are chosen from linear alkyl groups.
38. A nanoemulsion according to claim 37, wherein said R.sub.15
alkyl groups are chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and
dihydroxypropyl groups.
39. A nanoemulsion according to claim 38, wherein said R.sub.15
alkyl groups are chosen from methyl and ethyl groups.
40. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said sum of x+y+z
ranges from 1 to 10.
41. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein when said
R.sub.16 is chosen from linear and branched, saturated and
unsaturated, C.sub.1-C.sub.22 hydrocarbon-based groups, R.sub.16 is
chosen from hydrocarbon-based groups comprising from 12 to 22
carbon atoms, and hydrocarbon-based groups comprising from 1 to 3
carbon atoms.
42. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein when said
R.sub.18 is chosen from linear and branched, saturated and
unsaturated, C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydrocarbon-based groups, R.sub.18
comprises from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
43. A nanoemulsion according to claim 42, wherein said R.sub.18
comprises from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
44. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said R.sub.17,
R.sub.19 and R.sub.21, which may be identical or different, are
each chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated
C.sub.11-C.sub.21 hydrocarbon-based groups.
45. A nanoemulsion according to claim 44, wherein said R.sub.17,
R.sub.19 and R.sub.21, which may be identical or different, are
each chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated,
C.sub.11-C.sub.21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
46. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said x and z,
which may be identical or different, are each chosen from 0 or
1.
47. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said y is equal
to 1.
48. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said n, p and r,
which may be identical or different, are each chosen from 2 and
3.
49. A nanoemulsion according to claim 48, wherein said n, p and r,
which may be identical or different, are each equal to 2.
50. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said anion is
chosen from halides and alkyl sulfates.
51. A nanoemulsion according to claim 50, wherein said halides are
chosen from chloride, bromide, and iodide.
52. A nanoemulsion according to claim 50, wherein said alkyl
sulfates are chosen from methyl sulfate.
53. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said anion is
chosen from methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, and tosylate.
54. A nanoemulsion according to claim 53, wherein said anion is
chosen from anions derived from organic acids.
55. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said cationic
amphiphilic lipids of formula (IV) are chosen from
tetraalkylammonium chlorides.
56. A nanoemulsion according to claim 55, wherein said
tetraalkylammonium chlorides are chosen from
dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, and alkyltrimethylammonium
chlorides, wherein said alkyl portion comprises from 12 to 22
carbon atoms.
57. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said cationic
amphiphilic lipids of formula (IV) are chosen from
behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium
chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride,
benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride and
stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride.
58. A nanoemulsion according to claim 30, wherein said cationic
amphiphilic lipids of formula (IV) are chosen from
behenyltrimethylammonium salts and
stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts.
59. A nanoemulsion according to claim 25, wherein said at least one
ionic amphiphilic lipid chosen from cationic amphiphilic lipids and
anionic amphiphilic lipids is present in said nanoemulsion in an
amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total
weight of the nanoemulsion.
60. A nanoemulsion according to claim 59, wherein said at least one
ionic amphiphilic lipid chosen from cationic amphiphilic lipids and
anionic amphiphilic lipids is present in said nanoemulsion in an
amount ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total
weight of the nanoemulsion.
61. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
oil is chosen from plant oils, animal oils, synthetic oils, mineral
oils, halogenated oils, esters of a mineral acid and of an alcohol,
liquid carboxylic acid esters and silicones.
62. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
oil is present in an amount ranging from 2% to 40% by weight
relative to the total weight of the nanoemulsion.
63. A nanoemulsion according to claim 62, wherein said at least one
oil is present in an amount ranging from 4% to 30% by weight
relative to the total weight of the nanoemulsion.
64. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1 further comprising at least
one active agent chosen from water-soluble, water-dispersible, and
liposoluble cosmetic active agents and water-soluble,
water-dispersible, and liposoluble dermopharmaceutical active
agents.
65. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1, wherein said nanoemulsion
has a turbidity ranging from 60 NTU to 600 NTU.
66. A nanoemulsion according to claim 1 further comprising at least
one aminosilicone.
67. A nanoemulsion according to claim 66, wherein said at least one
aminosilicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by
weight relative to the total weight of the nanoemulsion.
68. A nanoemulsion according to claim 67, wherein said at least one
aminosilicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by
weight relative to the total weight of the nanoemulsion.
69. A nanoemulsion according to claim 68, wherein said at least one
aminosilicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 3% by
weight relative to the total weight of the nanoemulsion.
70. A composition for topical use chosen from cosmetic compositions
and dermopharmaceutical compositions, wherein said composition for
topical use comprises a nanoemulsion comprising oil globules with
an average size of less than 150 nm comprising at least one oil, at
least one amphiphilic lipid, and at least one nonionic polymer
comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one
hydrophilic block.
71. A composition for caring for a keratin material chosen from
body skin, facial skin, mucous membranes, the scalp, the hair, the
nails, the eyelashes, and the eyebrows comprising a nanoemulsion
comprising oil globules with an average size of less than 150 nm
comprising at least one oil, at least one amphiphilic lipid, and at
least one nonionic polymer comprising at least one hydrophobic
block and at least one hydrophilic block.
72. A composition for washing a keratin material chosen from body
skin, facial skin, mucous membranes, the scalp, the hair, the
nails, the eyelashes, and the eyebrows comprising a nanoemulsion
comprising oil globules with an average size of less than 150 nm
comprising at least one oil, at least one amphiphilic lipid, and at
least one nonionic polymer comprising at least one hydrophobic
block and at least one hydrophilic block.
73. A cosmetic make up composition for a keratin material chosen
from body skin, facial skin, mucous membranes, the scalp, the hair,
the nails, the eyelashes, and the eyebrows comprising a
nanoemulsion comprising oil globules with an average size of less
than 150 nm comprising at least one oil, at least one amphiphilic
lipid, and at least one nonionic polymer comprising at least one
hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block.
74. A cosmetic make-up-removing composition for a keratin material
chosen from body skin, facial skin, mucous membranes, the scalp,
the hair, the nails, the eyelashes, and the eyebrows comprising a
nanoemulsion comprising oil globules with an average size of less
than 150 nm comprising at least one oil, at least one amphiphilic
lipid, and at least one nonionic polymer comprising at least one
hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block.
75. A non-therapeutic care process for a keratin material
comprising applying to said keratin material a nanoemulsion
comprising oil globules with an average size of less than 150 nm
and comprising at least one oil, at least one amphiphilic lipid,
and at least one nonionic polymer comprising at least one
hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block.
76. A process according to claim 75, wherein said keratin material
is chosen from the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the
nails, mucous membranes and the scalp.
77. A non-therapeutic care process for a keratin material
comprising applying to said keratin material a composition for
topical use chosen from cosmetic compositions and
dermopharmaceutical compositions, wherein said composition for
topical use comprises a nanoemulsion comprising oil globules with
an average size of less than 150 nm and comprising at least one
oil, at least one amphiphilic lipid, and at least one nonionic
polymer comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one
hydrophilic block.
78. A process according to claim 77, wherein said keratin material
is chosen from the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the
nails, mucous membranes and the scalp.
79. A process for thickening oil-in-water nanoemulsions comprising
including at least one nonionic polymer comprising at least one
hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block in said
nanoemulsions comprising oil globules with an average size of less
than 150 nm and comprising at least one oil and at least one
amphiphilic lipid.
80. An oil-in-water nanoemulsion comprising oil globules with an
average size of less than 150 nm comprising at least one oily
phase, at least one amphiphilic lipid, and at least one nonionic
polymer comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one
hydrophilic block.
81. A nanoemulsion according to claim 80, wherein said at least one
oily phase and said at least one amphiphilic lipid are present in
amounts wherein the weight ratio of the amount of said at least one
oily phase to the amount of said at least one amphiphilic lipid
ranges from 1:1 to 10:1.
82. A nanoemulsion according to claim 81, wherein said at least one
oily phase and said at least one amphiphilic lipid are present in
amounts wherein the weight ratio of the amount of said at least one
oily phase to the amount of said at least one amphiphilic lipid
ranges from 1.2:1 to 10:1.
83. A nanoemulsion according to claim 82, wherein said at least one
oily phase and said at least one amphiphilic lipid are present in
amounts wherein the weight ratio of the amount of said at least one
oily phase to the amount of said at least one amphiphilic lipid
ranges from 1.5:1 to 6:1.
84. A nanoemulsion according to claim 83, wherein said at least one
oily phase and said at least one amphiphilic lipid are present in
amounts wherein the weight ratio of the amount of said at least one
oily phase to the amount of said at least one amphiphilic lipid
ranges from 2:1 to 5:1.
85. A nanoemulsion according to claim 54, wherein said anions
derived from organic acids are chosen from acetate and lactate.
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to O/W (oil-in-water)
nanoemulsions comprising oil globules with an average size of less
than 150 nm comprising at least one oil, at least one amphiphilc
lipid, and at least one nonionic polymer comprising at least one
hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block. The present
invention also relates to the use of such nanoemulsions in topical
application, for example, in cosmetics and/or in dermopharmacy.
[0002] The term "nanoemulsion" means a metastable oil-in-water
emulsion (wherein, for example, the emulsion can comprise an oily
phase dispersed in an aqueous phase) whose oil globule size is less
than 150 nm, these oil globules being stabilized with a crown of
amphiphilic lipids which can optionally form a liquid crystal phase
of lamellar type located at the oil/aqueous phase interface. The
transparency of these emulsions derives from the small size of the
oil globules, wherein said small size can be obtained for example
by using a high-pressure homogenizer. Nanoemulsions are to be
distinguished from microemulsions by their structure.
Microemulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions comprising
micelles of at least one amphiphilic lipid swollen with oil.
Furthermore, microemulsions do not require considerable mechanical
energy to be prepared. They form spontaneously simply by placing
the constituents in contact. At least one possible drawback of
microemulsions can be associated with the presence of a high
proportion of surfactants, which may tend to lead to intolerance
and entailing a sticky feel when applied to the skin. Moreover,
their field of formulation is generally narrow and their
temperature stability can be limited.
[0003] The at least one (as used throughout herein above and below,
the expression "at least one" means one or more and thus includes
individual components as well as mixtures/combinations) amphiphilic
lipid is present in an amphiphilic lipid phase, which comprises at
least one amphiphilic lipid chosen from for example nonionic and
ionic amphiphilic lipids. The expression "amphiphilic lipid" means
any molecule of bipolar structure comprising at least one
hydrophobic portion and at least one hydrophilic portion having the
property of reducing the surface tension of water (g<55 mN/m)
and of reducing the interface tension between water and an oily
phase. The synonyms of amphiphilic lipid are, for example:
surfactant, surface agent, and emulsifier.
[0004] The prior art discloses nanoemulsions comprising an
amphiphilic lipid phase comprising phospholipids, a cationic lipid,
water and a hydrophobic sunscreen. They are obtained by a
high-pressure homogenization process. These nanoemulsions can have
at least one drawback, for example, such nanoemulsions may tend to
be unstable on storage at the conventional storage temperatures,
i.e., between 0.degree. C. and 45.degree. C. Such nanoemulsions may
lead to yellow compositions and may produce unpleasant odors, which
may develop after a few days of storage. Furthermore, such
nanoemulsions tend to exhibit less favorable cosmetic properties.
They are described in the "DCI" review of April 1996, pages 46-48,
the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein.
[0005] Moreover, documents EP-A-728 460 and EP-A-780 114, the
disclosures of which are incorporated by reference herein, disclose
nanoemulsions based on fluid nonionic amphiphilic lipids and on
silicone surfactants.
[0006] However, all these nanoemulsions are fluid. For certain
uses, products are sought which can be measured out and taken up
easily by hand. To do this, these products must have a certain
level of consistency or viscosity. Specifically, a liquid product
may be more difficult to measure out and tends to run easily
between the fingers.
[0007] It is known practice to use, as thickeners for aqueous
media, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, such as
optionally crosslinked polymers for example polycarboxyvinylic
acids, such as carbopol, wherein said polymers can have a long
chain length and a high molecular weight.
[0008] When such polymers are used in compositions in the form of
nanoemulsions, some of such nanoemulsions may tend to exhibit a
decrease in at least one characteristic, such as stability and
transparency.
[0009] Thus, there is still a need for a thickening system which
can conveniently thicken, or even gel, a composition in the form of
an oil-in-water nanoemulsion, while minimizing any possible
influence that it may have on the cosmetic properties of said
compositions.
[0010] The inventors have discovered, unexpectedly, that
oil-in-water nanoemulsions comprising oil globules with an average
size of less than 150 nm comprising at least one oil and at least
one amphiphilc lipid can be thickened with at least one nonionic
polymer, for example at least one non-ionic polymer chosen from
water-soluble and water-dispersible non-ionic polymers comprising
at least one hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic
block.
[0011] One subject of the present invention is oil-in-water
nanoemulsions comprising oil globules with an average size of less
than 150 nm comprising at least one oil, at least one amphiphilc
lipid, and at least one nonionic polymer comprising at least one
hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block, wherein the
weight ratio of the amount of said at least one oil to the amount
of said at least one amphiphilic lipid ranges for example from 1:1
to 10:1, such as for example from 1.2:1 to 6:1.
[0012] Another subject of the invention is a process for thickening
oil-in-water nanoemulsions comprising oil globules with an average
size of less than 150 nm comprising at least one oil and at least
one amphiphilc lipid comprising including at least one nonionic
polymer comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one
hydrophilic block in said nanoemulsions.
[0013] As a non-restrictive explanation, it may be considered that,
in the context of the invention, the increase in the viscosity of
the medium may result from the formation of a network of oil
particles, said network involving combinations of hydrophobic type
between, on the one hand, the hydrophobic groups of the polymer
and, on the other hand, the hydrophobic cores of the oil particles.
The existence of labile bonds between the particles may be
responsible in part for increasing the viscosity of the
mixture.
[0014] The nanoemulsions in accordance with the invention are
prepared at temperatures ranging for example from 4.degree. C. to
45.degree. C. and are compatible with heat-sensitive active agents.
If desired, the nanoemulsions can comprise large amounts of oil.
Such nanoemulsions can for example comprise large amounts of
fragrance and can improve their remanence. They can also promote
the penetration of the active agents into the superficial layers of
the skin and the deposition of active agent onto keratin fibres
such as the hair. Hair treated with these nanoemulsions may be at
least one of the following: shiny, while simultaneously avoiding a
greasy look or feel, softer and more lively in nature, while also
tending to disentangle easily.
[0015] The cosmetic composition, such as for example a hair
composition, obtained by comprising the nanoemulsions of the
present invention may spread easily, may be easier to handle and
may be removed satisfactorily by rinsing.
[0016] The at least one nonionic polymer, which is for example
chosen from water-soluble and water-dispersible nonionic polymers,
comprises at least one hydrophobic block and at least one
hydrophilic block. The at least one nonionic polymer can for
example comprise at least two hydrophobic blocks.
[0017] The at least one hydrophobic block can be chosen from fatty
chains comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example
hydrocarbon-based chains chosen from alkyl,
aryl(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl, (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylaryl and alkenyl
chains, divalent aliphatic groups such as for example
C.sub.4-C.sub.30 alkylene, divalent cycloaliphatic groups such as,
for example, methylene dicyclohexyl and isophorone, and divalent
aromatic groups such as phenylene. The aryl groups can be chosen
from phenyl, naphthyl and anthryl groups.
[0018] The at least one hydrophilic block may be chosen from, for
example, polyethylene oxides, polysaccharides, polyamides, such as
polyacrylamide, and polyesters. In one embodiment of the invention,
the at least one hydrophilic block may be chosen from polyethylene
oxides comprising from 15 to 500 ethylene oxides.
[0019] In general, the at least one hydrophobic block and the at
least one hydrophilic block for example can be bonded by way of at
least one linking group chosen from, for example, ester, ether,
urea, amide and urethane linkers.
[0020] The weight ratio of the at least one hydrophilic block to
the at least one hydrophobic block of the polymer generally ranges
for example from 10:1 to 1000:1.
[0021] The at least one nonionic polymer according to the invention
(uncharged "hydrophobic" polymer) can be chosen from:
[0022] (1) celluloses modified with at least one group comprising
at least one hydrophobic chain such as, for example:
[0023] hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by at least one group
comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl,
alkylaryl, and alkenyl groups and further such as alkyl, arylalkyl,
alkylaryl, and alkenyl groups wherein said alkyl groups and said
alkenyl groups comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the
product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS(C.sub.16 alkyls) sold by the
company AQUALON, and the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the
company BEROL NOBEL, and
[0024] hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by at least one polyalkylene
glycol (C.sub.6-C.sub.20)alkylphenyl ether group, such as the
product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of
nonylphenol) sold by the company AMERCHOL;
[0025] (2) hydroxypropylguars modified by at least one group
comprising at least one C.sub.10-C.sub.30 fatty chain such as the
product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C.sub.22 alkyl chain) sold by the company
LAMBERTI, the products Miracare XC95-3 (C.sub.14 alkyl chain) and
RE 205-1 (C.sub.20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhodia Chimie;
and
[0026] (3) polyether-polyurethanes comprising in their chain at
least one hydrophilic block which is most often of a
polyoxyethylenated nature and at least one hydrophobic block which
may be a chain chosen from aliphatic chains, cycloaliphatic chains,
and aromatic chains.
[0027] The polyether-polyurethanes can, for example, comprise at
least two lipophilic (i.e., hydrophobic) hydrocarbon chains
comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic
block, it being possible for the hydrocarbon chains to be chosen
from pendant chains and chains at the end of a hydrophilic block.
One embodiment may comprise at least one pendant chain. In
addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at at least
one end of a hydrophilic block.
[0028] Representative polyether-polyurethanes useful in the present
invention may be multiblocks, such as in triblock form. The
hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example:
triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central block) and optionally
both at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for
example). These same polymers may also be in the form of graft
units or may be star-shaped.
[0029] The nonionic polyether-polyurethanes may be triblock
copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain
comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Certain nonionic
polyether-polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the
hydrophilic blocks.
[0030] By extension, polyether-polyurethanes whose hydrophilic
blocks are linked by other chemical bonds to the lipophilic blocks
are also included among the nonionic polyether-polyurethanes.
[0031] Representative nonionic polyether-polyurethanes can include,
for example, polyether-polyurethanes comprising at least one
polyoxyethylenated chain and at least one fatty chain, chosen from,
for example, C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl and alkenyl groups. For
instance, such polyether-polyurethanes can include the products
Dapral T 210 and Dapral T 212 sold by the company Akzo, and the
products Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 from the company ROHM and HMS
[ACULYN 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising
150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and
methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a
maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) matrix; ACULYN 44 is a
polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of
ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and
methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a
propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) mixture].
[0032] As examples of nonionic polyether-polyurethanes that can be
used in the invention, mention may also be made of the polymer
SER-AD FX1100 sold by the company Servo Delden, which comprises an
oxyethylene unit and two C.sub.18 hydrocarbon-based groups at the
end of the chain linked to the ethylene oxide via a polyurethane
block.
[0033] Representative nonionic polyether-polyurethanes include
Rholate 205 comprising a urea function sold by the company RHEOX
and Rholate 208, 204 and 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184 from the
company Rohm & Haas.
[0034] There may also be mentioned the product ELFACOS T210
comprising a C.sub.12-C.sub.14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS
T212 comprising a C.sub.18 alkyl chain from AKZO.
[0035] The product DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS comprising a
C.sub.20 alkyl chain and with a urethane bond, sold at 20% dry
matter content in water, may also be used.
[0036] It is also possible to use solutions and dispersions of
these polymers for example in water and for example in an
aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, there
may be mentioned SER-AD FX1010 and SER-AD 1035 sold by the company
Huls, Rholate 255, Rholate 278 and Rholate 244 sold by the company
RHEOX. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW
1206J provided by the company ROHM & HAAS.
[0037] Representative polyether-polyurethanes that can be used
according to the invention include polyether-polyurethanes
described in the article by G. Formum, J. Bakke and Fk.
Hansen--Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993), the disclosure of
which is incorporated by reference herein.
[0038] Additionally, the at least one nonionic polymer according to
the invention can be chosen from:
[0039] (4) copolymers formed from vinylpyrrolidone and at least one
hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one fatty chain such as for
example:
[0040] the products ANTARON V216 and GANEX V216
(vinylpyrrolidone/hexadece- ne copolymer) sold by the company
I.S.P., and
[0041] the products ANTARON V220 and GANEX V220
(vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company
I.S.P.;
[0042] (5) copolymers formed from at least one C.sub.1-C.sub.6
alkyl methacrylate and at least one amphiphilic monomer comprising
at least one fatty chain and copolymers formed from at least one
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl acrylate and at least one amphiphilic monomer
comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example the
oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate/methyl acrylate copolymer sold by
the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208; and
[0043] (6) copolymers formed from at least one hydrophilic
methacrylate and at least one hydrophobic monomer comprising at
least one fatty chain and copolymers formed from at least one
hydrophilic acrylate and at least one hydrophobic monomer
comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the
polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer;
[0044] In the compositions according to the invention, the at least
one nonionic polymer comprising at least one hydrophobic block and
at least one hydrophilic block is generally present in an amount
ranging for example from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 5% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] The nanoemulsions according to the present invention can
comprise at least one amphiphilic lipid chosen from for example
nonionic amphiphilic lipids and anionic amphiphilic lipids.
[0046] The nonionic amphiphilic lipids of the invention can be
chosen from, for example:
[0047] 1/--silicone surfactants,
[0048] 2/--nonionic amphiphilic lipids that are fluid at a
temperature of less than or equal to 45.degree. C. chosen from
esters formed from (i) at least one polyol chosen from polyethylene
glycol comprising from 1 to 60 ethylene oxide units, sorbitan,
glycerol comprising from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and
polyglycerols comprising from 2 to 15 glycerol units, and (ii) at
least one fatty acid comprising at least one alkyl chain chosen
from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl chains,
[0049] 3/--mixed esters derived from (i) at least one fatty acid,
at least one carboxylic acid, and glycerol, and mixed esters
derived from (ii) at least one fatty alcohol, at least one
carboxylic acid, and glycerol, wherein said at least one carboxylic
acid is chosen from .alpha.-hydroxy acids and succinic acid,
[0050] 4/--fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of
sugars,
[0051] 5/--surfactants that are solid at a temperature of less than
or equal to 45.degree. C. chosen from fatty esters of glycerol,
fatty esters of sorbitan, oxyethylenated fatty esters of sorbitan,
ethoxylated fatty ethers, and ethoxylated fatty esters, and
[0052] 6/--block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and of propylene
oxide (B).
[0053] 1/ The silicone surfactants that can be used according to
the invention are silicone compounds comprising at least one
oxyalkylene chain chosen from oxyethylene --OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2-- and
oxypropylene --OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2--. Representative silicone
surfactants that can be used according to the present invention
include silicone surfactants disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,364,633
and 5,411,744, the disclosures of which are incorporated by
reference herein.
[0054] The silicone surfactants used according to the present
invention can be chosen for example from compounds of formula (I):
1
[0055] in which:
[0056] R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3, which may be identical or
different, are each chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl groups and
groups of the formula
--(CH.sub.2).sub.x--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.y--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2-
CH.sub.2).sub.z--OR.sub.4, provided that at least one of said
groups R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 is not a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl
group;
[0057] R.sub.4 is chosen from hydrogen, alkyl groups, and acyl
groups;
[0058] A is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 200;
[0059] B is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 50; with the
proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
[0060] x is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 6;
[0061] y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 30;
[0062] z is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 5.
[0063] In one embodiment of the invention, in the compound of
formula (I) said alkyl groups are methyl groups, x is chosen from
integers ranging from 2 to 6 and y is chosen from integers ranging
from 4 to 30.
[0064] Representative examples of silicone surfactants of formula
(I) can include the compounds of formula (II): 2
[0065] in which A is chosen from integers ranging from 20 to 105, B
is chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 10 and y is chosen from
integers ranging from 10 to 20.
[0066] Representative examples of silicone surfactants of formula
(I) can include the compounds of formula (III):
H--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.y--(CH.sub.2).sub.3--[(CH.sub.3).sub.2SiO].sub.-
A'--(CH.sub.2).sub.3--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.y--OH (III)
[0067] in which A' and y, which may be identical or different, are
each chosen from integers ranging from 10 to 20.
[0068] Silicone surfactants of the invention which may be used for
example are the silicone surfactants sold by the company Dow
Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695, and
Q4-3667. The products DC 5329, DC 7439-146, and DC 2-5695 are
silicone surfactants of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is
22, B is 2, and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10, and y is 12; A is 27, B
is 3, and y is 12.
[0069] The product Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) in which
A is 15 and y is 13.
[0070] 2/ The amphiphilic lipids that are fluid at a temperature of
less than or equal to 45.degree. C. are chosen from, for
example:
[0071] the isostearate of polyethylene glycol of molecular weight
400, sold under the name PEG 400 by the company Unichema;
[0072] diglyceryl isostearate, sold by the company Solvay;
[0073] glyceryl laurate comprising 2 glycerol units, sold by the
company Solvay;
[0074] sorbitan oleate, sold under the name SPAN 80 by the company
ICI;
[0075] sorbitan isostearate, sold under the name NIKKOL SI 10R by
the company Nikko;
[0076] .alpha.-butylglucoside cocoate and .alpha.-butylglucoside
caprate, sold by the company Ulice.
[0077] 3/ The mixed esters derived from (i) at least one fatty
acid, at least one carboxylic acid, and glycerol, and the mixed
esters derived from (ii) at least one fatty alcohol, at least one
carboxylic acid, and glycerol, wherein said at least one carboxylic
acid is chosen from .alpha.-hydroxy acids and succinic acid, which
can be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the
invention, may be chosen from, for example, (a) mixed esters
derived from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one alkyl
chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, at least one
.alpha.-hydroxy acid, and glycerol, (b) mixed esters derived from
at least one fatty acid comprising at least one alkyl chain
comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, succinic acid, and glycerol,
(c) mixed esters derived from at least one fatty alcohol comprising
at least one alkyl chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, at
least one .alpha.-hydroxy acid, and glycerol, and (d) mixed esters
derived from at least one fatty alcohol comprising at least one
alkyl chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, succinic acid,
and glycerol. The .alpha.-hydroxy acid may be chosen, for example,
from at least one acid chosen from citric acid, lactic acid,
glycolic acid and malic acid.
[0078] The alkyl chain of the fatty acids and fatty alcohols from
which are derived the mixed esters which can be used in the
nanoemulsion of the invention may be chosen from linear and
branched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl chains. For example, the
alkyl chain may be at least one chain chosen from stearate,
isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate,
myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl,
behenyl, myristyl, lauryl and capryl chains.
[0079] As examples of mixed esters which can be used in the
nanoemulsion of the invention, mention may be made of the mixed
ester of glycerol and of the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid,
linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: Glyceryl
citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate) sold by the company Huls under
the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and of
isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: Isostearyl diglyceryl
succinate) sold by the company Huls under the name Imwitor 780 K;
the mixed ester of citric acid and of stearic acid with glycerol
(CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by the company Huls
under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and of
stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate lactate)
sold by the company Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo
LA30.
[0080] 4/ Fatty acid esters of sugars, which can be used as
surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, can be
chosen from fatty acid esters of sugars that are solid at a
temperature of less than or equal to 45.degree. C., such as esters
derived from at least one C.sub.8-C.sub.22 fatty acid and at least
one sugar chosen from sucrose, maltose, glucose, and fructose, and
esters derived from at least one C.sub.14-C.sub.22 fatty acid and
methylglucose.
[0081] The C.sub.8-C.sub.22 and C.sub.14-C.sub.22 fatty acids
forming the fatty unit of the esters which can be used in the
nanoemulsion of the invention comprise an alkyl chain chosen from
saturated and unsaturated linear alkyl chains comprising,
respectively, from 8 to 22 and from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The
fatty unit of the esters may be formed for example from stearates,
behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and
caprates. In one embodiment of the invention, stearates for example
may be used as the fatty unit.
[0082] As examples of esters of at least one fatty acid and of
sucrose, of fatty acids and of maltose, of fatty acids and of
glucose, and of fatty acids and of fructose, mention may be made of
sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate
and mixtures thereof, such as the products sold by the company
Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, F110 and F160 having,
respectively, an HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) of 5, 7, 11
and 16; and examples of esters of at least one fatty acids and of
methylglucose which may be mentioned are methylglucose
polyglyceryl-3 distearate, sold by the company Goldschmidt under
the name Tego-care 450. Mention may also be made of glucose or
maltose monoesters such as methyl o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and
o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltos- ide.
[0083] The fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, which can be used as
surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, are
solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45.degree. C. and
may be chosen for example from ethers of at least one
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 fatty alcohol and of glucose, of at least one
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 fatty alcohol and of maltose, of at least one
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 fatty alcohol and of sucrose, and of at least one
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 fatty alcohol and of fructose, and ethers of at
least one C.sub.14-C.sub.22 fatty alcohol and of methylglucose. An
example of such an ether would include, among other ethers,
alkylpolyglucosides.
[0084] The at least one C.sub.8-C.sub.22 and the at least one
C.sub.14-C.sub.22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the
ethers which may be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention can
comprise at least one alkyl chain chosen from saturated and
unsaturated, linear alkyl chains comprising, respectively, from 8
to 22 and from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the ethers
may be chosen for example from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl,
stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units,
and further such as cetearyl.
[0085] As examples of fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, mention may
be made of alkylpolyglucosides such as decylglucoside and
laurylglucoside, which is sold, for example, by the company Henkel
under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200,
cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl
alcohol, sold for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the
company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-care CG90 by the company
Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company
Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of
a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl
glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company
SEPPIC.
[0086] In one embodiment of the invention, the surfactant used can
be for example at least one surfactant chosen from sucrose
monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate.
Additional surfactants that can be used include methylglucose
polyglyceryl-3 distearate and alkylpolyglucosides.
[0087] 5/ The fatty esters of glycerol which may be used as
surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, which
are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45.degree. C.,
may be chosen for example from esters formed from at least one acid
comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain comprising from 16 to 22
carbon atoms and from 1 to 10 glycerol units. One or more of these
fatty esters of glycerol may be used in the nanoemulsion of the
invention.
[0088] These esters may be chosen for example from stearates,
behenates, arachidates and palmitates. In one embodiment, the
esters may be chosen for example from stearates and palmitates.
[0089] As examples of surfactants which can be used in the
nanoemulsion of the invention, mention may be made of decaglyceryl
monostearate, distearate, tristearate and pentastearate (CTFA
names: Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 distearate,
Poly-glyceryl-10 tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate), such
as the products sold under the respective names Nikkol Decaglyn
1-S, 2-S, 3-S and 5-S by the company Nikko, and diglyceryl
monostearate (CTFA name: Polyglyceryl-2 stearate), such as the
product sold by the company Nikko under the name Nikkol DGMS.
[0090] The fatty esters of sorbitan which may be used as
surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention are
solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45.degree. C. and
are chosen from C.sub.16-C.sub.22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and
oxyethylenated C.sub.16-C.sub.22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan.
They are formed from (i) at least one fatty acid comprising at
least one saturated linear alkyl chain comprising, respectively,
from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and from sorbitol, as well as from (ii)
at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear
alkyl chain comprising, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms,
and from ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters generally
comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units, such as from 2 to 40
ethylene oxide (EO) units.
[0091] These esters may be chosen for example from stearates,
behenates, and arachidates, palmitates. In one embodiment, the
esters may be chosen for example from stearates and palmitates.
[0092] As examples of surfactants which can be used in the
nanoemulsion of the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan
monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company
ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name:
sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span
40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: Polysorbate 65),
sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65.
[0093] The ethoxylated fatty ethers that are solid at a temperature
of less than or equal to 45.degree. C., which may be used as
surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, can be
ethers formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and from at least
one fatty alcohol chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The
at least one fatty chain of the ethers may be chosen for example
from behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and further for
example from cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers which
may be mentioned are behenyl alcohol ethers comprising 5, 10, 20
and 30 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Beheneth-5, Beheneth-10,
Beheneth-20, Beheneth-30), such as the products sold under the
names Nikkol BB5, BB10, BB20 and BB30 by the company Nikko, and
stearyl alcohol ether comprising 2 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name:
steareth-2), such as the product sold under the name Brij 72 by the
company ICI.
[0094] The ethoxylated fatty esters that are solid at a temperature
of less than or equal to 45.degree. C., which may be used as
surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, are
esters formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and from at least
one fatty acid chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The at
least one fatty chain in the esters may be chosen for example from
stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units. Examples of
ethoxylated fatty esters which may be mentioned are the ester of
stearic acid comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the
product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by
the company ICI, as well as the ester of behenic acid comprising 8
ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the
product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company
Gattefosse.
[0095] 6/ The block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and of
propylene oxide (B), which may be used as a surfactant in the
nanoemulsion according to the invention, may be chosen for example
from at least one block copolymer of formula (I):
HO(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.x(C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.y(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.zH
(I)
[0096] in which x, y, and z, which may be identical or different,
are each chosen from integers wherein x+z is an integer ranging
from 2 to 100 and y is an integer ranging from 14 to 60, and
optionally having an HLB value ranging from 2 to 16.
[0097] The at least one block copolymer of formula (I) may be
chosen for example from poloxamers, such as Poloxamer 231, and
further such as the product sold by the company ICI under the name
PLURONIC L81, which corresponds to the block copolymer of formula
(I) wherein x=z=6, y=39 (HLB 2); Poloxamer 282, such as the product
sold by the company ICI under the name PLURONIC L92, which
corresponds to the block copolymer of formula (I) wherein x=z=10,
y=47 (HLB 6); and Poloxamer 124, such as the product sold by the
company ICI under the name PLURONIC L44, which corresponds to the
block copolymer of formula (I) wherein x=z=11, y=21 (HLB 16).
[0098] Representative nonionic amphiphilic lipids that can be used
for example are chosen from:
[0099] polyethylene glycol isostearate (8 mol of ethylene
oxide),
[0100] diglyceryl isostearate,
[0101] polyglyceryl monolaurate, polyglyceryl monostearate, and
polyglyceryl distearate which comprise 10 glycerol units,
[0102] sorbitan oleate, and
[0103] sorbitan isostearate.
[0104] Representative anionic amphiphilic lipids of the invention,
for example, can be chosen from:
[0105] alkyl ether citrates,
[0106] alkoxylated alkenyl succinates,
[0107] alkoxylated glucose alkenyl succinates, and
[0108] alkoxylated methylglucose alkenyl succinates.
[0109] The alkyl ether citrates which may be used as surfactants in
the nanoemulsion according to the invention may be chosen for
example from at least one alkyl ether citrate chosen from
monoesters, diesters, and triesters formed from citric acid and
from at least one oxyethylenated fatty alcohol comprising at least
one alkyl chain chosen from linear and branched, saturated and
unsaturated alkyl chains comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and
comprising from 3 to 9 ethoxylated groups. One embodiment of the
invention may comprise at least one of the above-mentioned citrates
in the nanoemulsion. Another embodiment may comprise at least two
of the above-mentioned citrates in the nanoemulsion.
[0110] These citrates may be chosen, for example, from the
monoesters, diesters, and triesters of citric acid and of
ethoxylated lauryl alcohol, comprising from 3 to 9 ethoxylated
groups, which are, for example, sold by the company Witco under the
name WITCONOL EC. For example, WITCONOL EC 2129, which is
predominantly a dilaureth-9 citrate, and Witconol EC 3129, which is
predominantly a trilaureth-9 citrate, can be chosen.
[0111] When used, the alkyl ether citrates used as surfactants can
for example be neutralized to a pH of about 7 with at least one
base chosen from inorganic bases (such as sodium hydroxide,
potassium hydroxide and ammonia) and organic bases (such as
mono-ethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine,
1,3-aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine and basic amino acids
like arginine and lysine).
[0112] The alkenyl succinates which may be used as surfactants in
the nanoemulsion of the invention can, for example, be chosen from
alkoxylated alkenyl succinates, alkoxylated glucose alkenyl
succinates, and alkoxylated methylglucose alkenyl succinates that
correspond to compounds of formulae (I) and (II):
HOOC--CHR--CH.sub.2--COO-E (I)
HOOC--CHR--CH.sub.2--COO-E-O--CO--CH.sub.2--CHR'--COOH (II)
[0113] in which:
[0114] R and R', which may be identical or different, are each
chosen from linear and branched alkenyl groups comprising from 6 to
22 carbon atoms,
[0115] E is chosen from oxyethylene chains of formula
(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.n in which n is chosen from integers ranging
from 2 to 100, oxypropylene chains of formula
(C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.n' in which n' is chosen from integers
ranging from 2 to 100, and random and block copolymers comprising
chains chosen from oxyethylene chains of formula
(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.n and oxypropylene chains of formula
(C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.n' (such as oxyethylenated glucose
copolymers, oxyethylenated methylglucose copolymers,
oxypropylenated glucose copolymers, and oxypropylenated
methylglucose copolymers) such that:
[0116] the sum of n and n' is an integer ranging from 2 to 100,
[0117] the oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated glucose groups of
said oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated glucose copolymers comprise
on average from 4 to 100, respectively, oxyethylene or oxypropylene
units distributed on all the hydroxyl functions, and
[0118] the oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated methylglucose groups
of said oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated methyl glucose
copolymers comprise on average from 4 to 100 oxyethylene or
oxypropylene units distributed on all the hydroxyl functions.
[0119] In formulae (I) and (II), n and n' are average values and
are thus not necessarily integers. In one embodiment of the
invention, n is chosen from integers ranging from 5 to 60, such as
from 10 to 30.
[0120] In one embodiment, R and R', which may be identical or
different, are each chosen from linear alkenyl groups comprising
from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. R
and R', which may be identical or different, each may be, for
example, chosen from the hexadecenyl group comprising 16 carbon
atoms and the octadecenyl group comprising 18 carbon atoms.
[0121] The compounds of formulae (I) and (II) described above, in
which E is chosen from oxyethylene chains, oxypropylene chains and
copolymers comprising oxyethylene chains and oxypropylene chains,
may be prepared in accordance with the description given in
documents WO-A-94/00508, EP-A-107 199 and GB-A-2 131 820, which are
incorporated herein by reference.
[0122] The acid function --COOH in the surfactants of formulae (I)
and (II) is generally in the nanoemulsion of the invention in a
form which is neutralized with a neutralizing agent chosen, for
example, from inorganic bases (such as sodium hydroxide, potassium
hydroxide and ammonia) and organic bases (such as monoethanolamine,
diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-aminomethylpropanediol,
N-methylglucamine, and basic amino acids, such as arginine and
lysine).
[0123] Representative surfactants which can be used in the
nanoemulsion of the invention, include at least one surfactant
chosen from hexadecenyl succinate 18 EO (compound of formula (I)
with R=hexadecenyl, E=(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.n, n=18), hexadecenyl
succinate 45 EO (compound of formula (I) with R=hexadecenyl,
E=(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.n, n=45), dihexadecenyl succinate 18 EO
(compound of formula (II) with R=R'=hexadecenyl,
E=(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.n, n=18), dihexadecenyl glucose succinate
10 EO (compound of formula (II) with R=R'=hexadecenyl,
E=oxyethylenated glucose containing 10 oxyethylene groups),
dihexadecenyl glucose succinate 20 EO (compound of formula (II)
with R=R'=hexadecenyl, E=oxyethylenated glucose containing 20
oxyethylene groups), and dioctadecenyl methylglucose succinate 20
EO (compound of formula (II) with R=R'=octadecenyl,
E=oxyethylenated methylglucose containing 20 oxyethylene
groups).
[0124] The at least one amphiphilic lipid chosen from nonionic
amphiphilic lipids and anionic amphiphilic lipids may be present in
the aqueous phase (if more hydrophilic in nature) or in the oily
phase (if more lipophilic in nature) of the nanoemulsion.
[0125] The at least one amphiphilic lipid chosen from nonionic
amphiphilic lipids and anionic amphiphilic lipids may be present in
the nanoemulsion of the invention in an amount ranging, for
example, from 0.2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of
the nanoemulsion, such as from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the
total weight of the nanoemulsion.
[0126] The weight ratio of the amount of oily phase with respect to
the amount of the at least one amphiphilic lipid (surfactant)
ranges for example from 1:1 to 10:1, such as from 1.2:1 to 10:1,
further such as from 1.5:1 to 6:1, and furthermore such as from 2:1
to 5:1. The expression "amount of oily phase" herein means the
total amount of constituents of this phase excluding the amount of
the at least one amphiphilic lipid chosen from nonionic amphiphilic
lipids and anionic amphiphilic lipids.
[0127] In one embodiment of the invention, the nanoemulsion of the
invention may also comprise at least one additional ionic
amphiphilic lipid other than the ionic amphiphilic lipids described
above. Such additional ionic amphiphilic lipids may be added to
possibly further improve the stability of the dispersion.
[0128] The at least one additional ionic amphiphilic lipid which
may be used in the nanoemulsions of the invention can, for example,
be chosen from cationic amphiphilic lipids and anionic amphiphilic
lipids other than the anionic amphiphilic lipids described above,
such as from:
[0129] alkaline salts of dicetyl phosphate and of dimyristyl
phosphate;
[0130] alkaline salts of cholesteryl sulfate;
[0131] alkaline salts of cholesteryl phosphate;
[0132] lipoamino acids and salts thereof, such as monosodium and
disodium acylglutamates, for instance the disodium salt of
N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid, sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE HS21
by Ajinomoto;
[0133] sodium salts of phosphatidic acid;
[0134] phospholipids; and
[0135] alkylsulfonic derivatives of formula: 3
[0136] in which R, which may be identical or different in
embodiments wherein more than one of said alkylsulfonic derivative
is used, is chosen from C.sub.16-C.sub.22 alkyl groups, such as
C.sub.16H.sub.33 and C.sub.18H.sub.37 groups, and M is chosen from
alkali metals and alkaline-earth metals, such as sodium.
[0137] Representative cationic amphiphilic lipids that can be used
in the nanoemulsions of the invention can be chosen from, for
example, quaternary ammonium salts, fatty amines, and salts
thereof.
[0138] The quaternary ammonium salts are, for example, chosen
from:
[0139] A) quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) below: 4
[0140] in which:
[0141] R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3, and R.sub.4, which may be
identical or different, are each chosen from linear and branched
aliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and aromatic
groups, such as aryl and alkylaryl groups. The aliphatic groups can
comprise hetero atoms, such as oxygen, nitrogen, and sulfur, and
halogens. And the aliphatic groups can be chosen, for example, from
alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy(C.sub.2-C.sub.6)alkylene, alkylamide,
(C.sub.12-C.sub.22)alkylami- do(C.sub.2-C.sub.6)alkyl,
(C.sub.12-C.sub.22)alkylacetate, and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising
from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0142] X.sup.- is an anion chosen from halides, phosphates,
acetates, lactates, (C.sub.2-C.sub.6)alkyl sulfates, alkyl
sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates;
[0143] B) quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as, for
example, the salts of formula (V) below: 5
[0144] in which:
[0145] R.sub.5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl groups comprising
from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example groups derived from tallow
fatty acid,
[0146] R.sub.6 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, C.sub.1-C.sub.4
alkyl groups, and alkenyl and alkyl groups comprising from 8 to 30
carbon atoms,
[0147] R.sub.7 is chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl groups,
[0148] R.sub.8 is chosen from a hydrogen atom and C.sub.1-C.sub.4
alkyl groups,
[0149] X.sup.- is an anion chosen from halides, phosphates,
acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl
sulfonates.
[0150] In one embodiment, for example, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 are
chosen from alkenyl and alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21
carbon atoms, for example, alkenyl and alkyl groups derived from
tallow fatty acid, and wherein said R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 are chosen
such that said quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium comprise
at least one alkenyl group and at least one alkyl group, R.sub.7 is
methyl, and R.sub.8 is hydrogen. Such products are, for example,
(1) Quaternium-27 (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and
Handbook, hereafter "CTFA", 1997), i.e., "Rewoquat" W75, W75PG, and
W90, and (2) Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), i.e., "Rewoquat" W75HPG,
which are sold by the company Witco.
[0151] Additionally, the quaternary ammonium salts are, for
example, chosen from:
[0152] C) diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI): 6
[0153] in which:
[0154] R.sub.9 is chosen from aliphatic groups comprising from 16
to 30 carbon atoms,
[0155] R.sub.10, R.sub.11, R.sub.12, R.sub.13 and R.sub.14, which
may be identical or different, are each chosen from a hydrogen atom
and alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
[0156] X.sup.- is an anion chosen from halides, acetates,
phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. For example, such
diquaternary ammonium salts can comprise propane tallow diammonium
dichloride.
[0157] D) Quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester
function. The quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one
ester function that can be used according to the invention are, for
example, those of formula (VII) below: 7
[0158] in which:
[0159] R.sub.15 is chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl groups,
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl groups and C.sub.1-C.sub.6
dihydroxyalkyl groups;
[0160] R.sub.16 is chosen from:
[0161] acyl groups of the following formula: 8
[0162] wherein R.sub.19 is defined below,
[0163] linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated,
C.sub.1-C.sub.22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and
[0164] a hydrogen atom;
[0165] R.sub.18 is chosen from:
[0166] acyl groups of the following formula: 9
[0167] wherein R.sub.21 is defined below,
[0168] linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated,
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydrocarbon-based groups, and
[0169] a hydrogen atom;
[0170] R.sub.17, R.sub.19 and R.sub.21, which may be identical or
different, are each chosen from linear and branched, saturated and
unsaturated, C.sub.7-C.sub.21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
[0171] n, p and r, which may be identical or different, are each
chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
[0172] y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10;
[0173] x and z, which may be identical or different, are each
chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
[0174] X.sup.- is chosen from simple and complex, organic and
inorganic anions;
[0175] provided that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, and that when x
is 0, then R.sub.16 is chosen from linear and branched, saturated
and unsaturated, C.sub.1-C.sub.22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and
that when z is 0, then R.sub.18 is chosen from linear and branched,
saturated and unsaturated, C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydrocarbon-based
groups.
[0176] In one embodiment, the R.sub.15 alkyl groups may be linear
or branched and further, for example, linear.
[0177] For example, R.sub.15 may be chosen from methyl, ethyl,
hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl groups and further for example
from methyl and ethyl groups.
[0178] The sum x+y+z may for example range from 1 to 10.
[0179] When R.sub.16 is chosen from linear and branched, saturated
and unsaturated, C.sub.1-C.sub.22 hydrocarbon-based groups,
R.sub.16 may be long and comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or
short and comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0180] When R.sub.18 is chosen from linear and branched, saturated
and unsaturated, C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydrocarbon-based groups, R.sub.18
may for example comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0181] R.sub.17, R.sub.19 and R.sub.21, which may be identical or
different, can each, for example, be chosen from linear and
branched, saturated and unsaturated C.sub.11-C.sub.2,
hydrocarbon-based groups, and for example from linear and branched,
saturated and unsaturated, C.sub.11-C.sub.21 alkyl and alkenyl
groups.
[0182] x and z, which may be identical or different, can for
example each be chosen from 0 or 1.
[0183] y for example may be equal to 1.
[0184] n, p and r, which may be identical or different, can for
example each be chosen from 2 and 3 and in one embodiment equal to
2.
[0185] The anion for example can be chosen from halides (chloride,
bromide, and iodide) and alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate.
However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions
derived from organic acids, such as acetate and lactate, and any
other anions compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester
function, may be used.
[0186] As a further example, the anion X.sup.- can be chosen from
chloride and methyl sulfate.
[0187] Further examples of ammonium salts of formula (VII) are
those in which:
[0188] R.sub.15 is chosen from methyl and ethyl groups,
[0189] x and y are equal to 1;
[0190] z is equal to 0 or 1;
[0191] n, p and r are equal to 2;
[0192] R.sub.16 is chosen from:
[0193] acyl groups: 10
[0194] wherein R.sub.19 is defined below,
[0195] methyl, ethyl and C.sub.14-C.sub.22 hydrocarbon-based
groups, and
[0196] a hydrogen atom;
[0197] R.sub.18 is chosen from:
[0198] acyl groups: 11
[0199] wherein R.sub.21 is defined below,
[0200] a hydrogen atom;
[0201] R.sub.17, R.sub.19 and R.sub.21, which may be identical or
different, are each chosen from linear and branched, saturated and
unsaturated, C.sub.13-C.sub.17 hydrocarbon-based groups, such as
from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated
C.sub.13-C.sub.17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0202] The hydrocarbon-based groups can for example be linear.
[0203] Representative compounds of formula (VII) are chosen from
diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,
diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,
monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,
triacyloxyethylmethylammoni- um and
monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (for example
chloride and methyl sulfate). The acyl groups can for example
comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and can for example be obtained
from plant oils, such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When the
compound comprises several acyl groups, these groups, which may be
independently chosen, may independently be identical or
different.
[0204] These products are obtained, for example, by direct
esterification of compounds chosen from triethanolamine,
triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamines and
alkyldiisopropanolamines, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with
fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin,
and by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This
esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating
agent such as alkyl halides (such as methyl and ethyl halides),
dialkyl sulfates (for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates),
methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol
chlorohydrin and glycerol chlorohydrin.
[0205] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names
Dehyquart by the company Henkel, Stepanquat by the company Stepan,
Noxamium by the company Ceca and Rewoquat WE 18 by the company
Rewo-Witco.
[0206] One embodiment of the invention can comprise at least one
quaternary ammonium monoester salt, at least one quaternary
ammonium diester salt, and at least one quaternary ammonium
triester salt, wherein said quaternary ammonium diester salt is,
for example, present in a majority by weight.
[0207] Such an embodiment may comprise, for example, 15% to 30% by
weight of acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate,
45% to 60% by weight of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium
methyl sulfate, and 15% to 30% by weight of
triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, wherein said acyl
groups comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein said acyl
groups are derived from palm oil that is optionally partially
hydrogenated.
[0208] It is also possible to use the ammonium salts comprising at
least one ester function, described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and
4,137,180, the disclosures of which are incorporated by reference
herein.
[0209] Representative quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV)
include tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example,
dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and alkyltrimethylammonium
chlorides, in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms, for example behenyltrimethylammonium chloride,
distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium
chloride, and benzyldimethylstearylammon- ium chloride, and,
stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride sold
under the name "Cepharyl 70" by the company Van Dyk.
[0210] According to one embodiment of the invention, the quaternary
ammonium salt can be behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0211] The at least one additional ionic amphiphilic lipid chosen
from cationic amphiphilic lipids and anionic amphiphilic lipids is
generally present in the nanoemulsion of the invention in an amount
ranging for example from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of the nanoemulsion, such as for example from 0.2% to
5% by weight relative to the total weight of the nanoemulsion.
[0212] The at least one oil that may be used in the nanoemulsion of
the invention is, for example, chosen from:
[0213] animal and plant oils formed by fatty acid esters of
polyols, such as liquid triglycerides, for example sunflower oil,
corn oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, marrow oil,
grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, fish oils, glyceryl
tricaprocaprylate, and plant and animal oils of formula
R.sub.9COOR.sub.10 in which R.sub.9 is chosen from fatty acid
residues comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R.sub.10 is
chosen from linear and branched hydrocarbon-based chains comprising
from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as alkyl and alkenyl, for example,
purcellin oil and liquid jojoba wax;
[0214] natural and synthetic essential oils such as, for example,
eucalyptus oil, lavandin oil, lavender oil, vetiver oil, Litsea
cubeba oil, lemon oil, sandalwood oil, rosemary oil, camomile oil,
savory oil, nutmeg oil, cinnamon oil, hyssop oil, caraway oil,
orange oil, geraniol oil, cade oil and bergamot oil;
[0215] synthetic oils;
[0216] mineral oils such as hexadecane and liquid paraffin;
[0217] halogenated oils, such as fluorocarbons, for example,
fluoroamines (including for example perfluorotributylamine),
fluorohydrocarbons (including for example
perfluorodecahydronaphthalene), fluoroesters and fluoroethers;
[0218] esters of at least one mineral acid and of at least one
alcohol;
[0219] liquid carboxylic acid esters; and
[0220] volatile and non-volatile silicone oils.
[0221] Volatile and non-volatile silicone oils can for example be
used in the presence of at least one non-silicon oil (oil which
does not contain silicium atom). When used, the total amount of
such silicone oils is generally an amount ranging for example from
5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of oils.
[0222] The synthetic oils can be chosen from for example
polyolefins, such as poly-.alpha.-olefins and further such as:
[0223] poly-.alpha.-olefins chosen from hydrogenated and
non-hydrogenated polybutene poly-.alpha.-olefins, such as
hydrogenated and non-hydrogenated polyisobutene
poly-.alpha.-olefins.
[0224] One embodiment may comprise at least one isobutylene
oligomer with a molecular weight of less than 1 000 and at least
one polyisobutylene with a molecular weight of greater than 1 000
such as for example ranging from 1 000 to 15 000.
[0225] Representative carboxylic acid esters include monocarboxylic
acid esters, dicarboxylic acid esters, tricarboxylic acid esters,
and tetracarboxylic acid esters. The total number of carbons in the
esters is generally equal to 10 or more, such as less than 100 and
further such as less than 80.
[0226] The monocarboxylic acid esters can be chosen from saturated
and unsaturated, linear and branched C.sub.1-C.sub.26 aliphatic
acid monoesters derived from alcohols chosen from saturated and
unsaturated, linear and branched C.sub.1-C.sub.26 aliphatic
alcohols, wherein the total number of carbons in the esters is
generally equal to 10 or more.
[0227] It is also possible to use esters derived from
C.sub.4-C.sub.22 dicarboxylic acids and C.sub.1-C.sub.22 alcohols,
esters derived from C.sub.4-C.sub.22 tricarboxylic acids and
C.sub.1-C.sub.22 alcohols, esters derived from acids chosen from
mono-, di-, and tricarboxylic acids and alcohols chosen from
C.sub.2-C.sub.26 di-, tri-, tetra- and pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0228] Representative esters mentioned above which can be used
include ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl
palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as
isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, cetyl myristate and
2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl
stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate,
isononyl isononanate, and cetyl octanoate.
[0229] The at least one oil of the nanoemulsions in accordance with
the invention is generally present in an amount ranging for example
from 2% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the
nanoemulsion, such as for example from 4% to 30% by weight relative
to the total weight of the nanoemulsion, and further such as for
example from 8% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of
the nanoemulsion.
[0230] According to one embodiment, such as for example an
embodiment of the invention that is used for hair compositions, the
compositions according to the invention can also comprise at least
one aminosilicone.
[0231] Hereinabove and hereinbelow, the terms at least one
"silicone" and "polysiloxane" are synonymous and are understood to
include linear and cyclic, branched and crosslinked organosilicon
polymers and organosilicon oligomers of variable molecular weight,
obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably
functionalized silanes, and which comprise repeating units in which
the silicon atoms are connected together by oxygen atoms (siloxane
bond .ident.Si--O--Si.ident.) and are optionally substituted with
at least one hydrocarbon-based group, which is bonded by way of a
carbon atom of said hydrocarbon-based group to said silicon atoms.
The most common hydrocarbon-based groups are alkyl groups, such as
C.sub.1-C.sub.10 alkyl groups and further such as methyl,
fluoroalkyl groups, aryl groups, such as phenyl, and alkenyl groups
such as vinyl; other groups that can be bonded, either directly or
by way of a hydrocarbon-based linking group, to the siloxane chain
can be chosen from a hydrogen atom, halogens, such as chlorine,
bromine and fluorine, thiols, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene
groups, such as polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene, polyether
groups, hydroxyl, hydroxyalkyl groups, amide groups, acyloxy
groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, amphoteric groups, betaine groups,
anionic groups such as carboxylates, thioglycolates,
sulfosuccinates, thiosulfates, phosphates and sulfates, this list
obviously being in no way limiting (so-called "organomodified"
silicones).
[0232] According to the invention, the term at least one
"aminosilicone" means any silicone comprising at least one amine
chosen from primary, secondary, and tertiary amines or at least one
quaternary ammonium group. Mention may thus be made of:
[0233] (a) polysiloxanes referred to in the CTFA dictionary as
"amodimethicone" of formula (IV): 12
[0234] in which x' and y' are integers chosen such that generally
the weight-average molecular weight of said aminosilicone ranges
from 5 000 to 500 000 approximately;
[0235] (b) said at least one aminosilicone corresponding to formula
(V):
R'.sub.aG.sub.3-a-Si(OSiG.sub.2).sub.n-(OSiG.sub.bR'.sub.2-b).sub.m--O--Si-
G.sub.3-a-R'.sub.a (V)
[0236] in which:
[0237] G is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group. OH group,
and C.sub.1-C.sub.8 alkyl groups, for example methyl,
[0238] a is an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and in one embodiment a
is 0,
[0239] b is chosen from 0 and 1, and in one embodiment b is 1,
[0240] m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can range for
example from 1 to 2 000, such as for example from 50 to 150,
wherein n can be for example chosen from numbers ranging from 0 to
1 999, such as for example from 49 to 149, and wherein m can be
chosen from numbers ranging for example from 1 to 2 000, such as
for example from 1 to 10;
[0241] R' is a monovalent group of formula --C.sub.qH.sub.2qL in
which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized
amine group chosen from the groups:
[0242] NR"--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--N(R").sub.2,
[0243] N(R").sub.2,
[0244] N.sup.+(R").sub.3A.sup.-,
[0245] N.sup.+H(R").sub.2A.sup.-,
[0246] N.sup.+H.sub.2(R")A.sup.-, and
[0247] N(R")--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--N.sup.+R"H.sub.2A.sup.-,
[0248] in which R" can be chosen from a hydrogen atom, phenyl
groups, benzyl groups, and saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based
groups, such as for example an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 20
carbon atoms, and A.sup.- is chosen from halide ions such as, for
example, fluoride, chloride, bromide and iodide.
[0249] One aminosilicone of said at least one aminosilicone
corresponding to formula (V) is known as
"trimethylsilylamodimethicone" of formula (VI): 13
[0250] in which:
[0251] m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can range for
example from 1 to 2 000, such as for example from 50 to 150,
wherein n can be for example chosen from numbers ranging from 0 to
1 999, such as for example from 49 to 149, and wherein m can be
chosen from numbers ranging for example from 1 to 2 000, such as
for example from 1 to 10.
[0252] Such polymers are described, for example in patent
application EP-A-95238, the disclosure of which is incorporated
herein by reference.
[0253] Additional said at least one aminosilicone of the invention
include:
[0254] (c) said at least one aminosilicone of formula (VII): 14
[0255] in which:
[0256] R.sub.5 is chosen from monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups
comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C.sub.1-C.sub.18
alkyl groups and C.sub.2-C.sub.18 alkenyl groups, for example
methyl;
[0257] R.sub.6 is chosen from divalent hydrocarbon-based groups,
such as divalent C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkylene groups and divalent
C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkylenoxy groups, for example C.sub.1-C.sub.8
alkylenoxy groups, wherein said R.sub.6 is bonded to the Si by way
of an SiC bond;
[0258] Q.sup.- is an anion that can be for example chosen from
halide ions, such as chloride, and organic acid salts (such as
acetate);
[0259] r is an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, such
as from 2 to 8;
[0260] s is an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200,
such as from 20 to 50.
[0261] Such aminosilicones are described more particularly in U.S.
Pat. No. 4,185,087, the disclosure of which is incorporated by
reference herein.
[0262] A silicone which falls within this class is the silicone
sold by the company Union Carbide under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE
56".
[0263] Further examples of said at least one aminosilicone
include:
[0264] d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (VIIb): 15
[0265] in which:
[0266] groups R.sub.7, which may be identical or different, are
each chosen from monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups comprising
from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkyl groups,
for example methyl, C.sub.2-C.sub.18 alkenyl groups, and rings
comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms;
[0267] R.sub.6 is chosen from divalent hydrocarbon-based groups,
such as divalent C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkylene groups and divalent
C.sub.1-C.sub.18alkylenoxy, for example C.sub.1-C.sub.8, group
connected to the Si by an SiC bond;
[0268] R.sub.8, which may be identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group comprising from
1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkyl
group, a C.sub.2-C.sub.18 alkenyl group or a group
--R.sub.6--NHCOR.sub.7;
[0269] X.sup.- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular
chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
[0270] r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200,
such as for example from 5 to 100.
[0271] Such silicones are described, for example, in application
EP-A-0 530 974, the disclosure of which is incorporated by
reference herein.
[0272] Silicones falling within this class are the silicones sold
by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil
Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474.
[0273] According to the invention, said at least one aminosilicone
can be present in at least one form chosen from the form of an oil,
the form of a solution chosen from aqueous, alcoholic and
aqueous-alcoholic solutions, the form of a dispersion, and the form
of an emulsion.
[0274] In one embodiment, the aminosilicones can be present in the
form of an emulsion, such as emulsions chosen from microemulsions
and nanoemulsions.
[0275] The product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 929"
by Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic
surfactant derived from tallow fatty acids, referred to as
Tallotrimonium (CTFA), in combination with a nonionic surfactant,
known under the name "Nonoxynol 10", can be used for example.
[0276] The product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 939"
by Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic
surfactant, trimethylcetylammonium chloride, in combination with a
nonionic surfactant, trideceth-12, can also be used for
example.
[0277] Another commercial product which can be used according to
the invention is the product sold under the name "Dow Corning Q2
7224" by Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the
trimethylsilylamodimethicone of formula (IV), a nonionic surfactant
of formula: C.sub.8H.sub.17--C.sub.6H-
.sub.4--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.n--OH in which n=40, also known as
octoxynol-40, another nonionic surfactant of formula:
C.sub.12H.sub.25--(OCH.sub.2--CH.sub.2).sub.n--OH in which n=6,
also known as isolaureth-6, and glycol.
[0278] The at least one aminosilicone is generally present in an
amount ranging for example from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to
the total weight of the nanoemulsion, such as for example from 0.1%
to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the nanoemulsion,
and further such as from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total
weight of the nanoemulsion.
[0279] The nanoemulsions in accordance with the present invention
may comprise at least one solvent, for example, if desired, to
improve the transparency of the formulation.
[0280] The at least one solvent can be for example chosen from:
[0281] C.sub.1-C.sub.8 alcohols such as ethanol;
[0282] glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene
glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycols comprising from 4
to 16, for example, from 8 to 12 ethylene oxide units.
[0283] The at least one solvent such as those mentioned above are
generally present in the nanoemulsions of the invention in an
amount ranging for example from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to
the total weight of the nanoemulsion.
[0284] In addition, the use of the alcohols as defined above, in an
amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
nanoemulsion, such as for example at least 15% by weight relative
to the total weight of the nanoemulsion, may make it possible for
one skilled in the art to obtain nanoemulsions without a preserving
agent.
[0285] The nanoemulsions of the invention can additionally comprise
at least one active agent chosen from water-soluble,
water-dispersible, and liposoluble cosmetic active agents and
water-soluble, water-dispersible, and liposoluble
dermopharmaceutical active agents. The liposoluble active agents
are present in the oily globules of the nanoemulsion, while the
water-soluble and water-dispersible active agents are present in
the aqueous phase of the nanoemulsion. Non-limiting examples of
said at least one active agent include vitamins and derivatives
thereof, such as vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, vitamin C and its
esters, B vitamins, vitamin A alcohol and vitamin A retinol,
vitamin A acid and vitamin A retinoic acid and its derivatives,
provitamins such as panthenol, vitamin A palmitate, niacinamide,
ergocalciferol, antioxidants, essential oils, wetting agents,
silicone and non-silicone sunscreens, preserving agents,
sequestering agents, softeners, dyes, viscosity modifiers, foam
modifiers, foam stabilizers, nacreous agents, pigments,
moisturizers, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents,
proteins, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids comprising linear
and branched C.sub.16-C.sub.40 chains, such as 18-methyl eicosanoic
acid, plasticizers, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, polymers, such as
cationic polymers, and fragrances.
[0286] The oil globules in the nanoemulsions of the invention can
for example have an average size ranging from 20 nm to 150 nm, such
as for example from 30 nm to 100 nm and further such as for example
from 40 nm to 80 nm.
[0287] The nanoemulsions according to the invention generally have
a transparent to blueish appearance. Their transparency is measured
by a coefficient of transmittance at 600 nm ranging for example
from 10% to 90%, or alternatively by a turbidity ranging for
example from 60 NTU to 600 NTU such as for example from 70 NTU to
400 NTU, the turbidity being measured using a Hach Model 2100 P
portable turbidimeter.
[0288] The nanoemulsions of the invention may be obtained by a
process comprising:
[0289] (1) combining the aqueous phase and the oily phase by mixing
with vigorous stirring at a temperature of less than 45.degree.
C.,
[0290] (2) homogenizing said combination at a pressure of greater
than 5.times.10.sup.7 Pa such as ranging for example from
6.times.10.sup.7 to 18.times.10.sup.7 Pa.
[0291] Such a process makes it possible to produce, at room
temperature, nanoemulsions that tend to be compatible with
heat-sensitive active compounds and that can comprise large amounts
of oils, such as fragrances comprising fatty substances, whereby
the possibility of denaturing such oils tends to be reduced.
[0292] Another subject of the invention is a composition for
topical use such as a composition chosen from cosmetic compositions
and dermopharmaceutical compositions, wherein said composition for
topical use comprises a nanoemulsion comprising oil globules with
an average size of less than 150 nm comprising at least one oil, at
least one amphiphilc lipid, and at least one nonionic polymer
comprising at least one hydrophobic block and at least one
hydrophilic block.
[0293] The compositions in accordance with the invention may be
used for at least one use chosen from washing keratin materials,
cleaning keratin materials, and removing make-up from keratin
materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows,
the nails and mucous membranes.
[0294] The compositions of the invention can for example be in
forms chosen from shampoos, rinse-out conditioners, leave-in
conditioners, permanent-waving compositions, relaxing compositions,
dyeing compositions, bleaching compositions, compositions to be
applied before a procedure chosen from dyeing, bleaching,
permanent-waving and relaxing the hair, compositions to be applied
after a procedure chosen from dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving
and relaxing the hair, and compositions to be applied between the
two steps of a procedure chosen from permanent-waving and relaxing
the hair.
[0295] The compositions may also be in at least one form chosen
from hairsetting lotions, blow-drying lotions, fixing compositions
(lacquers), and styling compositions such as, for example, gels and
mousses.
[0296] The compositions can be packaged in various forms chosen
from vaporizers, pump-dispenser bottles and aerosol containers in
order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or
in the form of a mousse. Such packaging forms are indicated, for
example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a
mousse for fixing or treating the hair.
[0297] When the composition according to the invention is packaged
in aerosol form in order to obtain an aerosol lacquer or mousse, it
comprises at least one propellant which may be chosen from volatile
hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane and pentane,
chlorohydrocarbons, fluorohydrocarbons, carbon dioxide, nitrous
oxide, dimethyl ether, nitrogen and compressed air.
[0298] The compositions in accordance with the invention may be
used to care for a keratin material chosen from for example hair,
body skin, facial skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, and mucous
membranes.
[0299] The compositions in accordance with the invention may be
used to make up a keratin material chosen from for example hair,
body skin, facial skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, and mucous
membranes.
[0300] Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic product base,
such as for example lotions, sera, milks, creams and eaux de
toilette for caring, making-up, or removing make-up from a keratin
material, such as for example body skin, facial skin, the scalp,
the hair, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, and mucous
membranes, and further such as for example the lips, wherein said
cosmetic product base comprises at least one nanoemulsion
comprising oil globules with an average size of less than 150 nm
comprising at least one oil, at least one amphiphilc lipid, and at
least one nonionic polymer comprising at least one hydrophobic
block and at least one hydrophilic block.
[0301] Another subject of the invention relates to a
non-therapeutic care process for a keratin material comprising
applying a nanoemulsion comprising oil globules with an average
size of less than 150 nm comprising at least one oil, at least one
amphiphilc lipid, and at least one nonionic polymer comprising at
least one hydrophobic block and at least one hydrophilic block to
said keratin material chosen from for example the skin, the hair,
the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, mucous membranes and the
scalp.
[0302] Concrete examples illustrating the invention are indicated
below without however exhibiting a limiting character.
[0303] Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise
indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients,
reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and
claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by
the term "about." Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary,
the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification
and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon
the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present
invention. At the very least, and not as an attempt to limit the
application of the doctrine of equivalents to the scope of the
claims, each numerical parameter should at least be construed in
light of the number of reported significant digits and by applying
ordinary rounding techniques.
[0304] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters
setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations,
the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are
reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however,
inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the
standard deviation found in their respective testing
measurements.
EXAMPLES
[0305] The following procedure was used:
[0306] in a first phase A, the nonionic and cationic amphiphilic
lipids were homogenized with the oil and the lipophilic
(liposoluble) active agents and adjuvants at a temperature of about
80.degree. C. and the mixture was allowed to cool to 50.degree. C.,
with stirring using a doctor blade;
[0307] the fragrance, the preserving agent and the cyclomethicone
were then added, and cooling was continued down to 30.degree.
C.;
[0308] in a second phase B, 65% of the water and the water-soluble
and water-dispersible active agents and adjuvants were mixed in at
a temperature of 20 to 30.degree. C.;
[0309] a third phase C was prepared containing 35% of the water and
the nonionic polymer. This phase was melted at 80.degree. C. and
was then cooled to 60.degree. C.;
[0310] phases A and B were then mixed together using a turbomixer
homogenizer and the mixture was then homogenized using a
high-pressure homogenizer such as a Soavi-Niro machine at a
pressure of 1 200 bar, in 4 homogenization runs, while keeping the
temperature of the product below about 35.degree. C.
[0311] Phase C was added with stirring, at room temperature.
Example 1
[0312] A conditioner to be rinsed off comprising the composition
below was prepared:
[0313] Phase A:
1 PEG-400 isostearate as sold by Unichema 2 g
Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride 2 g (1.6 g AM) containing 80% AM
(Genamin DDMP from Goldschmidt) Avocado oil 5.25 g Jojoba oil 5.25
g Fragrance qs Preserving agent qs Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 3.5 g
(DC245 from Dow Corning)
[0314] Phase B:
2 Trimethylsilylamodimethicone microemulsion 6 g (1.2 g AM)
containing 20% AM, sold under the name SME 253 by General Electric
Dipropylene glycol 10 g Sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated 0.5 g
with 20 mol of ethylene oxide (Tween 20 from ICI) Demineralized
water 38 g Glycerol 5 g
[0315] Phase C:
3 Polycondensate comprising at least one polyethylene 5 g (0.75 g
AM) glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl
alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at a
concentration of 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and
water (81%) (Aculyn 46 from Rohm & Haas) Water 21 g
[0316] A nanoemulsion in which the size of the oil globules is
about 63 nm was obtained. This composition was stable on storage
for 2 months at room temperature and at 45.degree. C.
[0317] The composition had a turbidity of 318 NTU and a viscosity
of 1 300 mPa.multidot.s (cP).
[0318] The turbidity was measured using a Hach Model 2100 P
turbidimeter at 25.degree. C., in NTU units (Nephelometric
turbidity units). (The machine was calibrated with formazine).
[0319] The viscosity was measured using a Rheomat 108 rheometer
with a shear rate of 200 s.sup.-1 at 25.degree. C. (spindle 4).
[0320] The hair treated with this composition was easy to
disentangle, soft and shiny.
[0321] If the Aculyn 46 is replaced with 1% AM by weight of
Carbopol Ultrez, a composition which is not thickened, not
transparent (turbidity>1 000 NTU) and not stable on storage is
obtained.
Example 2
[0322] The composition below was prepared:
[0323] Phase A:
4 PEG-400 isostearate 4.5% Disodium acylglutamate 0.5% Isopropyl
myristate 5% Isocetyl stearate 10%
[0324] Phase B:
5 Dipropylene glycol 10% Glycerol 5% Distilled water 45%
[0325] Phase C:
6 SER-AD FX 1100 (Servo Delden) 0.5% Distilled water 19.5%
[0326] Turbidity/viscosity 25.degree. C. at t=0 without gelling
agent: 149 NTU/liquid like water
[0327] Turbidity/viscosity 25.degree. C. at t=0: 150 NTU/17.1
Pa.multidot.s (spindle 4)
[0328] Turbidity/viscosity 25.degree. C. at t=1 month: 152 NTU/16.4
Pa.multidot.s (spindle 4)
[0329] Turbidity/viscosity 25.degree. C. at t=2 months: 155
NTU/15.4 Pa.multidot.s (spindle 4)
[0330] (viscosity measurements carried out using an Epprecht 180
rheometer at 25.degree. C.)
[0331] For this example, total stability of the turbidity and good
stability of the viscosity over a period of 2 months were
noted.
Examples 3, 4, 5, and 6
[0332] The compositions below were prepared:
7 3 4 5 6 Phase A: PEG-400 isostearate 4.5% 4.5% 4.5% 4.5% Disodium
acylglutamate 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% Isopropyl myristate 5% 5% 5% 5%
Isocetyl stearate 10% 10% 10% 10% Phase B: Dipropylene glycol 10%
10% 10% 10% Glycerol 5% 5% 5% 5% Distilled water 45% 45% 45% 45%
Phase C: Rheolate 205 0.5% -- -- -- Esaflor HM 22 -- 0.1% 0.75% --
Natrosol Grade Plus 330 -- -- -- 0.5% Distilled water qs 100% 100%
100% 100% Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Turbidity 177 NTU 201 NTU 377 NTU
362 NTU Viscosity 9 (spindle 4) 0.061 (spindle 3) 0.18 (spindle 3)
0.15 (spindle 3) in Pa .multidot. s Viscosity measurements carried
out using an Epprecht 180 rheometer at 25.degree. C.)
* * * * *