U.S. patent application number 11/053822 was filed with the patent office on 2005-09-01 for jewelry apparatus and method of making same.
Invention is credited to Nevatia, Kapil S., Nevatia, Shishir B..
Application Number | 20050188722 11/053822 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 34910703 |
Filed Date | 2005-09-01 |
United States Patent
Application |
20050188722 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Nevatia, Shishir B. ; et
al. |
September 1, 2005 |
Jewelry apparatus and method of making same
Abstract
An exemplary system and method for providing a jewelry setting
is disclosed as comprising a first gemstone in an array of
gemstones generally retained at a girdle by fasteners that hold the
girdles of at least a second and a third gemstone of a plurality of
gemstones that surround the first gemstone. Disclosed features and
specifications may be optionally controlled, adapted or otherwise
modified to improve the retention of gemstones in a variety of
gemstone settings. Exemplary embodiments of the present invention
generally provide improved aesthetic presentation and mechanical
retention of gemstones in a gemstone setting.
Inventors: |
Nevatia, Shishir B.;
(Sippayna Bunglow, IN) ; Nevatia, Kapil S.;
(Sippayna Bunglow, IN) |
Correspondence
Address: |
NOBLITT & GILMORE, LLC.
4800 NORTH SCOTTSDALE ROAD
SUITE 6000
SCOTTSDALE
AZ
85251
US
|
Family ID: |
34910703 |
Appl. No.: |
11/053822 |
Filed: |
February 9, 2005 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
|
|
|
|
|
|
Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
60543118 |
Feb 9, 2004 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
63/26 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A44C 17/046
20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
063/026 |
International
Class: |
A44C 017/02 |
Claims
We claim:
1. A gemstone setting, comprising: a first gemstone; and a first
girdle; said first gemstone substantially retained proximate to
said first girdle by fasteners that each hold at least second and
third girdles of at least a second and a third gemstone
substantially disposed proximate to said first gemstone.
2. The gemstone setting of claim 1, wherein: said first gemstone
fixedly mounts on a platform by the first girdle extending into
each of a plurality of first bars substantially extending from the
platform; and the girdle of said second gemstone extends into at
least two bars of the plurality of first bars and into at least two
bars of a plurality of second bars extends from the platform,
spaced from one another, from the first gemstone, and from the
first bars.
3. The gemstone setting of claim 2, wherein the girdle of said
third gemstone extends into at least two bars of the plurality of
first bars, one of which is substantially in common with the second
gemstone, and extending into at least two bars of the plurality
second bars, one of which is substantially in common with the
second gemstone.
4. The gemstone setting of claim 3, wherein the first bars and the
second bars are at least one of substantially unitary with respect
to the platform and substantially molded in one piece with the
platform.
5. The gemstone setting of claim 3, wherein said first gemstone is
substantially disposed near the center of at least one of a
plurality of gemstones and an array of gemstones substantially
comprising the second and third gemstones.
6. The gemstone setting of claim 1, wherein: said first gemstone
fixedly mounts on a platform by the first girdle extending into
each bar of a first plurality of bars extending from the platform;
and the girdle of said second gemstone extends into at least two
bars of the first plurality of bars that are substantially in
common with the first gemstone, and into each bar of a second
plurality of bars substantially extending from the platform, spaced
apart from one another, from the first gemstone, and from the first
plurality of bars.
7. The gemstone setting of claim 6, wherein the girdle of said
third gemstone extends into at least two bars of the first
plurality of bars that are substantially in common with the first
gemstone, and into one bar of the second plurality of bars that is
substantially in common with the second gemstone.
8. The gemstone setting of claim 1, wherein: said first gemstone
fixedly mounts on a platform by the girdle of the gemstone
substantially retained by each bar of a first plurality of bars
extending from the platform; and the girdle of said second gemstone
is held by at least two bars of the first plurality of bars that
are in common with the first gemstone, and the girdle held by each
bar of a second plurality of bars extends from the platform, spaced
from one another, from the first gemstone, and from the first
plurality of bars.
9. The gemstone setting of claim 8, wherein the girdle of said
third gemstone is held by at least two bars of the first plurality
of bars that are in common with the first gemstone, and held by one
bar of the second plurality of bars that is in common with the
second gemstone.
10. A gemstone setting of claim 1, wherein: said first gemstone
substantially fixedly mounts on a platform by the girdle of the
gemstone substantially retained by each fastener of a first
plurality of fasteners mounted on the platform; and the girdle of
said second gemstone is substantially retained by at least two
fasteners of the first plurality of fasteners that are
substantially in common with the first gemstone, and the girdle
substantially retained by each fastener of a second plurality of
fasteners mounted on the platform, spaced from one another, from
the first gemstone, and from the first plurality of fasteners.
11. The gemstone setting of claim 10, further comprising the girdle
of said third gemstone substantially retained by at least two bars
of the first plurality of bars that are substantially in common
with the first gemstone, and substantially retained by one bar of
the second plurality of bars that is substantially in common with
the second gemstone.
12. A method of setting a gemstone, said method comprising the
steps of: providing a first gemstone; and providing a first girdle;
retaining said first gemstone substantially proximate to said first
girdle by fasteners that each substantially retain at least second
and third girdles of at least a second and a third gemstone
substantially disposed proximate to said first gemstone.
13. The method of claim 12, further comprising the steps of:
fixedly mounting said first gemstone on a platform by the girdle of
the gemstone extending into each of a plurality of first bars
substantially extending from the platform; and wherein the girdle
of said second gemstone extends into at least two bars of the
plurality of first bars and into at least two bars of a plurality
of second bars extends from the platform, spaced from one another,
from the first gemstone, and from the first bars.
14. The method of claim 13, wherein the girdle of said third
gemstone extends into at least two bars of the plurality of first
bars, at least one of which is substantially in common with the
second gemstone, and extending into at least two bars of the
plurality second bars, one of which is substantially in common with
the second gemstone.
15. The method of claim 14, wherein the first bars and the second
bars are at least one of substantially unitary with respect to the
platform and substantially molded in one piece with the
platform.
16. The method of claim 14, wherein said first gemstone is
substantially disposed near the center of at least one of a
plurality of gemstones and an array of gemstones substantially
comprising said second and third gemstones.
17. The method of claim 12, further comprising the steps of:
fixedly mounting said first gemstone on a platform by the first
girdle extending into each bar of a first plurality of bars
extending from the platform; and wherein the girdle of said second
gemstone extends into at least two bars of the first plurality of
bars that are substantially in common with the first gemstone, and
into each bar of a second plurality of bars substantially extending
from the platform, spaced apart from one another, from the first
gemstone, and from the first plurality of bars.
18. The method of claim 17, wherein: the girdle of said third
gemstone extends into at least two bars of the first plurality of
bars that are substantially in common with the first gemstone, and
into one bar of the second plurality of bars that is substantially
in common with the second gemstone.
19. The method of claim 12, further comprising the steps of:
fixedly mounting said first gemstone on a platform by the first
girdle of the gemstone substantially retained by each bar of a
first plurality of bars extending from the platform; wherein the
girdle of said second gemstone is held by at least two bars of the
first plurality of bars that are in common with the first gemstone,
and the girdle held by each bar of a second plurality of bars
extends from the platform, spaced from one another, from the first
gemstone, and from the first plurality of bars; and wherein the
girdle of said third gemstone is held by at least two bars of the
first plurality of bars that are in common with the first gemstone,
and held by one bar of the second plurality of bars that is in
common with the second gemstone.
20. A method of manufacturing a gemstone setting, said method
comprising the steps of: constructing a master model of said
setting; making a mold of the master model; injecting wax into the
mold, and extracting a hardened wax piece from the mold; at least
one of: disposing a first gemstone into a setting opening until a
girdle of the gemstone engages the recess on at least one bar;
disposing a second gemstone into a setting opening until a girdle
of the gemstone engages the recess on at least one bar; disposing a
gemstone axially into a setting opening until the gemstone at least
contacts a sloped annular wall; and disposing a gemstone axially
into a setting opening until the girdle of the gemstone is at a
suitable height above a sloped annular wall and a pavilion is
spaced from an opening wall; disposing the wax and gemstone piece
into a container; adding investment material, said investment
material suitably adapted to harden; heating the resulting assembly
to about 600 degrees Celsius; eliminating the wax from the
container; injecting metal and allowing the metal to harden;
removing the molded piece from the container; and breaking away the
investment material.
Description
RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Patent
Application Ser. No. 60/543,118 filed in the United States Patent
and Trademark Office on Feb. 9, 2004 by Shishir B. Nevatia and
Kapil S. Nevatia.
FIELD OF INVENTION
[0002] The present invention generally concerns articles of
jewelry; and more particularly, in various representative and
exemplary embodiments, to methods of mounting and retaining
gemstones on articles of jewelry.
BACKGROUND
[0003] The desirability to reduce the dependence of manufacturers
of jewelry, having gems set in precious metal, on the high-priced
labor of skilled gem-setters has long been recognized. One method
utilizes a lost wax process for manufacturing jewelry by forming a
rubber mold in which a wax model is cast to accommodate the gem and
positioning the latter in the rubber mold prior to closing the mold
and injecting the wax. The wax model bearing the gem set therein is
thereafter removed from the rubber mold and encased in the
investment so that, after replacement of the wax by precious metal
in accordance with the lost wax procedure, the cast article is
removed from the investment mold with the gem preset in the metal
and thereby eliminating the step of setting the gem in cast
metal.
[0004] A conventional method of melting and removing the wax model
and curing the investment mold preparatory to casting the precious
metal therein may be performed in an oven under reduced pressure
and typically involves increasing the temperature by uniform
increments to 700 degrees Celsius over 14 hours to substantially
remove moisture and provide a hard, smooth interior mold surface
against which the metal is cast. Other methods suggest that
preheating or curing the investment mold may be accomplished in as
little as 4 hours at temperatures generally not in excess of 500
degrees Celsius.
[0005] In attempting to achieve the result of eliminating the need
for a skilled gem-setter to complete the manufacture of an article
of jewelry, certain methods have been found to be inadequate in two
respects, namely: (1) in the manner the gem is set in the wax
model; and (2) the suggested procedure for curing the investment
mold prior to casting the precious metal.
[0006] As to the first inadequacy, the step of positioning the gem
as an insert in an open rubber mold and then closing the mold with
a high degree of care, so as not to displace the gem prior to
injecting the wax, has been found not only to be relatively time
consuming, but also unreliable; particularly when the jewelry
design utilizes several relatively small gems in each setting.
Furthermore, any improper positioning of the gem during the molding
of the wax model may not be apparent until after the model is
removed from the mold. Other imperfections in the wax model
generally require removal of the gems before discarding the
defective model. Such complications contribute to what is generally
regarded as an unacceptable efficiency rate at this stage of the
manufacturing process.
[0007] As to the second inadequacy, by limiting the curing of the
investment material to a period of 4 hours at temperatures not in
excess of 500 degrees Celsius (generally promoted to prevent damage
to the gems now retained in the investment mold after removal of
the wax), the reduction in moisture content and hardening of the
investment material has been found to be insufficient to enable the
investment mold to withstand the injection of molten metal which
damages important areas of the mold, thereby resulting in defective
and unacceptable castings.
[0008] The prior art is replete with descriptions of jewel
configurations for holding a plurality of gemstones in a way that
provides the appearance of larger or more gemstones than are in the
array. One design fastens a plurality of gemstones around and over
the edge of the crown of a larger gemstone to give the appearance
of one large stone. This is generally visually effective, but risks
damage to the contacting edges of the gems. Accordingly, there is a
need to provide nearly the same visual effect that may be generally
obtained utilizing smaller stones while protecting the stones by
holding their edges with material that is generally softer than the
gemstones.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0009] In various representative aspects, the present invention
provides a jewelry setting in which a first gemstone in an array of
gemstones is substantially retained at a girdle by fasteners that
each substantially retain the girdles of at least two other
gemstones of a plurality of gemstones that surround the first
gemstone. Advantages of the present invention will be set forth in
the Detailed Description which follows and may be obvious from the
Detailed Description or may be learned by practice of exemplary
embodiments of the invention. Still other advantages of the
invention may be realized by means of any of the instrumentalities,
methods or combinations particularly pointed out in the claims.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0010] Representative elements, operational features, applications
and/or advantages of the present invention reside in the details of
construction and operation as more fully hereafter depicted,
described and claimed--reference being made to the accompanying
drawings forming a part hereof, wherein like numerals refer to like
parts throughout. Other elements, operational features,
applications and/or advantages may become apparent in light of
certain exemplary embodiments recited in the Detailed Description,
wherein:
[0011] FIG. 1 generally illustrates a front view of a gemstone or
jewel in accordance with a representative and exemplary embodiment
of the present invention;
[0012] FIG. 2 generally depicts a front and top perspective view of
a jewelry apparatus in accordance with a representative and
exemplary embodiment of the present invention;
[0013] FIG. 3 generally illustrates a top schematic view of the
jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 2, in accordance with
a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present
invention;
[0014] FIG. 4 generally illustrates a front and top perspective
view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 2 without
the gemstones, in accordance with a representative and exemplary
embodiment of the present invention;
[0015] FIG. 5 generally illustrates a cross-section schematic view
of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 3 containing
only the center stone (taken along 5-5), in accordance with a
representative and exemplary embodiment of the present
invention;
[0016] FIG. 6 generally illustrates a front and top perspective
view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 2
containing only the center stone, in accordance with a
representative and exemplary embodiment of the present
invention;
[0017] FIG. 7 generally illustrates a front view of a portion of
the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 3 (taken along and
confined to 7-7), in accordance with a representative and exemplary
embodiment of the present invention;
[0018] FIG. 8 generally illustrates a cross-section schematic view
of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 3 containing
the center stone, two side stones that are forward of the center
stone, the front side stone not shown (the stones not in
cross-section, taken along 8-8), in accordance with a
representative and exemplary embodiment of the present invention;
and
[0019] FIG. 9 generally illustrates a front and top perspective
view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 2
containing the center stone and side stones (taken at the same
angle of view as generally depicted in FIG. 6), in accordance with
a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present
invention.
[0020] Elements in the Figures are illustrated for simplicity and
clarity and have not necessarily been drawn to scale. For example,
the dimensions of some of the elements in the Figures may be
exaggerated relative to other elements to help improve
understanding of various embodiments of the present invention.
Furthermore, the terms "first", "second", and the like herein, if
any, are generally used for distinguishing between similar elements
and not necessarily for describing a sequential or chronological
order. Moreover, the terms "front", "back", "top", "bottom",
"over", "under", and the like, if any, are generally employed for
descriptive purposes and not necessarily for comprehensively
describing exclusive relative position or order. Any of the
preceding terms so used may be interchanged under appropriate
circumstances such that various embodiments of the invention
described herein, for example, are capable of operation in
orientations and environments other than those explicitly
illustrated or otherwise described.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXEMPLARY EMBODIMENTS
[0021] The following descriptions are of exemplary embodiments of
the invention and the inventors' conception of the best mode and
are not intended to limit the scope, applicability or configuration
of the invention in any way. Rather, the following description is
intended to provide convenient illustrations for implementing
various embodiments of the invention. As will become apparent,
changes may be made in the function and/or arrangement of any of
the elements described in the disclosed exemplary embodiments
without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
[0022] As generally depicted in FIG. 1, gemstone 20 typically
comprises table 24, crown 26, girdle 28, pavilion 30, culet 32,
upper facets 34 above the girdle, and lower facets 36 below the
girdle.
[0023] With reference to FIGS. 2 and 3, center gemstone 40 and six
side gemstones 20 may be mounted on platform 44 of apparatus 50.
Gemstone 40 is generally larger than gemstone 20.
[0024] With reference to FIGS. 2-8, girdle 52 of gemstone 40
generally extends substantially radially outward from axis 54 into
substantially radially inward open recesses 56 in bars 58, which
generally extend vertically from platform 44. Recesses 56 may be
optionally shaped complimentary to the girdle so that they closely
fit the girdle. Walls 60, 62 are generally angled to fit portions
of the crown and pavilion so that walls 60, 62 on the six bars 58
substantially retain gemstone 40 and prevent removal of stone 40
from the platform and rattling of the stone 40 on the platform.
[0025] Bars 58 may be optionally unitary and/or molded in one piece
with platform 44. In a preferred representative embodiment of the
present invention, recess 56 generally positions the stone so that
the coulet and lower portion of the pavilion generally extends into
opening 68 that generally extends through platform 44, and the
pavilion is typically concentric and in effective contact with
sloped annular wall 66 and is suitably spaced from cylindrical wall
70 of opening 68 in platform 44. This may be more easily seen, for
example, in FIG. 5, where wall 62 of recess 56 is substantially
continuous on a straight line with sloped annular wall 66.
[0026] In another arrangement, in which bar 58 is spaced
substantially radially outward from sloped annular wall 66, wall 62
of the groove is substantially discontinuous with sloped annular
wall 66 so that the pavilion of the stone effectively contacts
walls 62 and is suitably spaced from wall 66.
[0027] Each gemstone 20 may be generally mounted on the platform in
the same way as the other gemstones 20. For brevity, the instant
description generally refers to one gemstone 20 mounting, but may
be suitably adapted to provide a system and method for the mounting
of a plurality of gemstones.
[0028] Girdle 28 of gemstone 20 generally extends substantially
radially outward from axis 72 into recesses 76 in two bars 58, and
generally extends substantially radially outward from axis 72 into
recesses 78 in two bars 80. Bars 80 may be preferably unitary
and/or molded in one piece with platform 44. Recesses 78, walls 82,
84 and the walls of recess 76 may be preferably suitably angled
substantially parallel to portions of the crown and pavilion so
that they closely fit the girdle. Recess 76 and 78 generally retain
the stone and prevent rattling and removal of gemstone 20 from the
platform.
[0029] Bar 58, comprising at least two recesses 76, may be spaced
100 substantially radially outward from sloped annular wall 96 of
opening 94. Bar 80 may be disposed at the edge of sloped annular
wall 96. The depths of grooves may be varied so that the gemstone
is generally retained by the grooves substantially concentric with
opening 94 that generally extends through platform 44 and is
suitably spaced from cylindrical wall 98 of opening 94.
[0030] As generally depicted, for example in FIG. 8, girdles 28 and
52 may be configured for disposition in the same plane 104. Table
106 of gemstone 40 may be generally higher than tables 24 of
gemstones 20. Gemstone 40 generally extends lower in cavity 108
formed by opening 68 and the stone, than gemstones 20 in cavities
110 fanned by openings 94 and gemstones 20.
[0031] With reference now to FIG. 3, looking at the top of
apparatus 50 having the stones mounted, one can see bars 58. Each
stone is generally retained so that it may not be removed
regardless of how many stones or which other stone is mounted on
the platform.
[0032] With reference to FIG. 7, viewing the cluster of mounted
gemstones from one side, outer gemstone and bars 80 and 58 are
apparent. Each bar 58 typically retains a portion of the center
stone and portions of at least two outer stones.
[0033] In a preferred exemplary and representative embodiment, the
platform and bars containing the stones may comprise precious
metal. Such precious metals may generally include, but are not
necessarily limited to: gold, platinum, silver, and combinations
thereof. One bar, or any number of bars 58 and 80, may be mounted
on the platform by pinning, brazing, screwing or such other methods
now known, or otherwise hereafter described, in the art for
fastening a bar to a platform. Fasteners including clips and prongs
that can grip more than one gemstone around a substantially
vertical axis of the fastener may also be used to at least
partially retain tile gemstones in the arrangements described vide
supra. The tops of the bars or fasteners may be tinted or highly
polished so that they reflect light and enhance the radiance of the
gemstone.
[0034] A preferred representative and exemplary method for making
an apparatus in accordance with the present invention generally
includes the steps of:
[0035] a. constructing a master model of the apparatus less
gemstones;
[0036] b. making a rubber mold of the master model;
[0037] c. injecting wax into the rubber mold, and extracting the
hardened wax piece from the rubber mold;
[0038] d. disposing gemstone 40 into opening 68 until girdle 52 of
the stone engages recesses 56 on bars 58;
[0039] e. disposing the six other stones 20 into openings 94 until
girdle 28 of the stone engages recesses 76 of two bars 58, and
recesses 78 of two bars 80;
[0040] f: putting the entire wax and stone piece into a container
and adding investment material which hardens;
[0041] g. heating to about 600 degrees Celsius, eliminating the wax
from the container;
[0042] h. injecting metal, allowing the metal to harden, removing
the molded piece from the container, and breaking away the
investment material.
[0043] In another representative and exemplary method for making
apparatus 50, one may omit the recesses which could be introduced
by the master model, or which could be cut in the wax piece, and
using a wax that is resilient, replace steps d, and e, with:
[0044] i. disposing the gemstones substantially axially into
openings 68 and 94 until the stones contact the sloped annular
wall.
[0045] In another representative and exemplary method for making
apparatus 50, one may omit the recesses which could be introduced
by the master model, or which could be cut in the wax piece, and,
using a wax that is resilient, replace steps d, and e with:
[0046] j. disposing the gemstones substantially axially into
openings 68 and 94 until the girdle of the stone is at some
predetermined height range above the sloped annular wall, and the
pavilion is suitably spaced from the opening wall.
[0047] In yet another exemplary and representative method for
making apparatus 50, the piece may be cast in metal without
synthetic gems, and the gems engaged into recesses 56, 76 and 78 on
the cleaned and polished piece.
[0048] In the foregoing specification, the invention has been
described with reference to specific exemplary embodiments;
however, it will be appreciated that various modifications and
changes may be made without departing from the scope of the present
invention as set forth in the claims below. The specification and
Figures are to be regarded in an illustrative manner, rather than a
restrictive one and all such modifications are intended to be
included within the scope of the present invention. Accordingly,
the scope of the invention should be determined by the claims
appended hereto and their legal equivalents rather than by merely
the examples described above. For example, the steps recited in any
method or process claims may be executed in any order and are not
limited to the specific order presented in the claims.
Additionally, the components and/or elements recited in any device
claims may be assembled or otherwise operationally configured in a
variety of permutations to produce substantially the same result as
the present invention and are accordingly not limited to the
specific configuration recited in the claims.
[0049] Benefits, other advantages and solutions to problems have
been described above with regard to particular embodiments;
however, any benefit, advantage, solution to problems or any
element that may cause any particular benefit, advantage or
solution to occur or to become more pronounced are not to be
construed as critical, required or essential features or components
of any or all the claims.
[0050] As used herein, the terms "comprises", "comprising", or any
variation thereof, are intended to reference a non-exclusive
inclusion, such that a process, method, article, composition or
apparatus that comprises a list of elements does not include only
those elements recited, but may also include other elements not
expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article,
composition or apparatus. Other combinations and/or modifications
of the above-described structures, arrangements, applications,
proportions, elements, materials or components used in the practice
of the present invention, in addition to those not specifically
recited, may be varied or otherwise particularly adapted by those
skilled in the art to specific environments, manufacturing
specifications, design parameters or other operating requirements
without departing from the general principles of the same.
* * * * *