U.S. patent application number 10/138326 was filed with the patent office on 2005-08-11 for composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least one semi-crystalline polymer.
Invention is credited to Ferrari, Veronique.
Application Number | 20050175560 10/138326 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 27248772 |
Filed Date | 2005-08-11 |
United States Patent
Application |
20050175560 |
Kind Code |
A9 |
Ferrari, Veronique |
August 11, 2005 |
Composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured
by at least one semi-crystalline polymer
Abstract
A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable
medium, at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least one
semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure, wherein said
polymer is solid at ambient temperature; and particles that are
solid at ambient temperature and are dispersed in said medium,
wherein the particles can be introduced into the medium in the form
of a colloidal dispersion. This composition can be provided in the
form of a stick which deposits, on a keratinous substance, such as
the lips, a glossy, nonsticky, and covering film.
Inventors: |
Ferrari, Veronique;
(Maisons-Alfort, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
FINNEGAN, HENDERSON, FARABOW, GARRETT & DUNNER
LLP
901 NEW YORK AVENUE, NW
WASHINGTON
DC
20001-4413
US
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Prior
Publication: |
|
Document Identifier |
Publication Date |
|
US 0021756 A1 |
January 30, 2003 |
|
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Family ID: |
27248772 |
Appl. No.: |
10/138326 |
Filed: |
May 6, 2002 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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60294977 |
Jun 4, 2001 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/63 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/8152 20130101;
A61Q 1/06 20130101; A61K 8/0241 20130101; A61K 8/31 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/063 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/021 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
May 4, 2001 |
FR |
01 06046 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable
medium: (i) at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least
one semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure, wherein
said semi-crystalline polymer is solid at ambient temperature; and
(ii) particles that are solid at ambient temperature; and (iii) at
least one dispersing agent in an amount sufficient to disperse said
particles in said medium.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the particles are introduced
into the medium in the form of a colloidal dispersion of said
particles.
3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the particles are chosen
from pigments, pearlescent agents, fillers, and mixtures
thereof.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the particles are colored
particles.
5. The composition of claim 2, wherein the colloidal dispersion is
present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition of claim 5, wherein the colloidal dispersion is
present in an amount ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one dispersing
agent represents from 0.3 mg/m.sup.2 to 5 mg/m.sup.2 of the
particle surface area.
8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the at least one dispersing
agent represents from 0.5 mg/m.sup.2 to 4 mg/m.sup.2 of the
particle surface area.
9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one dispersing
agent is chosen from the stearate of poly(12-hydroxystearic acid),
poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and polyglyceryl-2
dipolyhydroxystearate.
10. The composition of claim 2, wherein the colloidal dispersion
comprises a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature
and forms part of the liquid fatty phase.
11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the semi-crystalline
polymer has a number-average molecular mass of greater than
2,000.
12. The composition of claim 11, wherein the semi-crystalline
polymer has a number-average molecular mass ranging from 3,000 to
500,000.
13. The composition of claim 12, wherein the semi-crystalline
polymer has a number-average molecular mass ranging from 4,000 to
99,000.
14. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer comprises (i) a polymer backbone; and (ii)
at least one crystallizable organic side chain; and/or at least one
crystallizable organic block which forms part of the polymer
backbone of said at least one semi-crystalline polymer.
15. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer has a melting temperature and is soluble
in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature greater than its melting
temperature.
16. The composition of claim 1, wherein said composition is applied
to a keratinous substrate.
17. The composition of claim 16, wherein the semi-crystalline
polymer has a melting temperature greater than the temperature of
the keratinous substrate.
18. The composition of claim 17, wherein the keratinous substrate
is skin or lips.
19. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from: block copolymers of
polyolefins with controlled crystallization; aliphatic and aromatic
polyester polycondensates; aliphatic/aromatic copolyesters; and
homo- and copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side
chain.
20. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers
comprising from 50% to 100% by weight of units resulting from
polymerization of at least one monomer carrying at least one
crystallizable hydrophobic side chain.
21. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers
resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer having at
least one crystallizable chain of formula X: 2wherein M represents
an atom of the polymer backbone, S represents a spacer, C
represents a crystallizable group, and "S--C" represents an
optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated alkyl chain comprising at
least 11 carbon atoms.
22. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from polymers resulting from the
polymerization of at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, and
maleic anhydride.
23. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers
resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer having a
crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C.sub.14-C.sub.24 alkyl
(meth)acrylates; C.sub.11-C.sub.15 perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates;
N-(C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 alkyl)(meth)acrylamides unsubstituted or
substituted with at least one fluorine atom; vinyl esters
comprising chains chosen from C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 alkyl and
perfluoroalkyl chains; vinyl ethers comprising chains chosen from
C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 alkyl and perfluoroalkyl chains; C.sub.14 to
C.sub.24 a-olefins; and para-alkylstyrenes comprising an alkyl
group comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
24. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers of alkyl
(meth)acrylate, wherein said alkyl is chosen from C.sub.14 to
C.sub.24 alkyl groups, and of alkyl(meth)acrylamide, wherein said
alkyl is chosen from C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 alkyl groups, and
copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylate, wherein said alkyl is chosen
from C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 alkyl groups, and of
alkyl(meth)acrylamide, wherein said alkyl is chosen from C.sub.14
to C.sub.24 alkyl groups, with a hydrophilic monomer.
25. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from copolymers of alkyl
(meth)acrylate, wherein said alkyl is chosen from C.sub.14 to
C.sub.24 alkyl groups, and of alkyl(meth)acrylamide, wherein said
alkyl is chosen from C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 alkyl groups with a
hydrophilic monomer that is not identical to (meth)acrylic
acid.
26. The composition of claim 25, wherein the hydrophilic monomer is
chosen from N-vinylpyrrolidone, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and
mixtures thereof.
27. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%
to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
28. The composition of claim 27, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.5%
to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
29. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is present in an amount greater than 10%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
30. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from polymers having low melting
points with melting temperatures of less than 50.degree. C.,
polymers having high melting points with melting temperatures of at
least equal to 50.degree. C., and mixtures thereof.
31. The composition of claim 30, wherein the polymers having high
melting points have melting temperatures, M.p..sub.1, ranging from
greater than or equal to 55.degree. C. to less than or equal to
150.degree. C.
32. The composition of claim 31, wherein the polymers having high
melting points have melting temperatures, M.p..sub.1, ranging from
greater than or equal to 60.degree. C. to less than or equal to
130.degree. C.
33. The composition of claim 30, wherein the polymers having low
melting points have melting temperatures, M.p..sub.2 ranging from
greater than or equal to 30.degree. C. to less than 50.degree.
C.
34. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one liquid
fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 99% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
35. The composition of claim 34, wherein the at least one liquid
fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 80% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
36. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty
phase comprises at least one hydrocarbonaceous oil chosen from
mineral and synthetic origins.
37. The composition of claim 1, wherein said composition is for
caring for and/or treating and/or making up a keratinous
substance.
38. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one
coloring material that is soluble in the medium and is chosen from
lipophilic dyes and hydrophilic dyes.
39. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one
additive chosen from mattifying fillers, water, antioxidants,
essential oils, preservatives, neutralizing agents, fragrances,
waxes, and pasty fatty substances.
40. The composition of claim 39, comprising at least one wax in an
amount of less than 20% by weight, and at least one mattifying
filler in an amount less than 5% by weight, of the total weight of
said composition.
41. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one liquid
fatty phase represents the continuous phase of the composition.
42. The composition of claim 1, wherein said composition is in
anhydrous form.
43. The composition of claim 1, wherein said composition is in cast
form.
44. The composition of claim 1, wherein said composition is
provided in a form chosen from mascara, eyeliner, foundation,
lipstick, deodorant, product for making up the body, eyeshadow,
face powder, and concealer.
45. A product for making up a keratinous substance comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium, (i) at least one liquid fatty
phase structured by at least one semi-crystalline polymer having an
organic structure, wherein said semi-crystalline polymer is solid
at ambient temperature; (ii) colored particles that are solid at
ambient temperature; and (iii) at least one dispersing agent in an
amount sufficient to disperse said colored particles in said
medium.
46. The product of claim 45, wherein the colored particles
introduced into the medium in the form of a colloidal dispersion of
said colored particles.
47. The product of claim 45, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer comprises a) a polymer backbone; and b) at
least one crystallizable organic side chain, wherein the at least
one semi-crystalline polymer has a number-average molecular mass of
greater than 2,000.
48. The product of claim 45, wherein said product is in a solid
stick form having a hardness ranging from 100 gf to 350 gf.
49. A cosmetic process for caring for, making up, or treating a
keratinous substance of a human being, comprising applying to said
keratinous substance an effective amount of a composition
comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least
one liquid fatty phase structured by at least one semi-crystalline
polymer having an organic structure, wherein said semi-crystalline
polymer is solid at ambient temperature; and (ii) particles that
are solid at ambient temperature; and (iii) at least one dispersing
agent in an amount sufficient to disperse said particles in said
medium.
50. A process of making a cosmetic composition comprising a
physiologically acceptable medium, comprising including in said
medium (i) at least one semi-crystalline polymer that has an
organic structure and is solid at ambient temperature, (ii)
particles that are solid at ambient temperature and are dispersed
in said medium; and (iii) at least one dispersing agent in an
amount effective to disperse said particles in said medium.
51. A process of using a colloidal dispersion of solid particles in
a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable
medium, at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least one
semi-crystalline polymer, said at least one semi-crystalline
polymer having an organic structure and being solid at ambient
temperature comprising including in said cosmetic composition a
colloidal dispersion of particles in said composition, wherein the
particles are solid at ambient temperature.
52. A process for coloring and/or stabilizing a cosmetic
composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at
least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least one
semi-crystalline polymer, said semi-crystalline polymer having an
organic structure and being solid at ambient temperature,
comprising including in said cosmetic composition a colloidal
dispersion of colored particles that are solid at ambient
temperature in said composition.
53. A method for stabilizing a cosmetic composition and/or
producing a stable cosmetic composition comprising: including, in a
cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable
medium, at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least one
semi-crystalline polymer that has an organic structure and is solid
at ambient temperature and colored particles that are solid at
ambient temperature, comprising including a dispersing agent in
said composition in an amount effective for dispersing said colored
particles.
54. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable
medium: (i) at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least
one semi-crystalline polymer that has an organic structure, wherein
said semi-crystalline polymer is solid at ambient temperature; and
(ii) particles that are solid at ambient temperature; and (iii) at
least one dispersing agent in an amount sufficient to disperse said
particles in said medium; wherein said semi-crystalline polymer
does not comprise a polysaccharide backbone.
55. The composition of claim 1, wherein said at least one
semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from block copolymers comprising
at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block
and from homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one
crystallizable side chain per repeat unit.
56. The composition of claim 55, wherein in said block copolymers,
there are at least two crystallizable blocks that are not identical
and/or there are at least two amorphous blocks that are not
identical.
57. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
semi-crystalline polymer results from a monomer having a
crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C.sub.14 to C.sub.22
alkyl (meth )acrylates.
58. The composition of claim 14, wherein the at least one
crystallizable organic side chain and/or the at least one
crystallizable organic block represent at least 30% of the total
weight of the, said at least one semi-crystalline polymer.
59. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of said at
least semi-crystalline polymer to said at least one liquid fatty
phase ranges from 0.20:1 to 0.50:1.
60. The composition of claim 59, wherein said weight ratio ranges
from 0.25:1 to 0.45:1.
61. A lipstick comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
(i) at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least one
semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure, wherein said
semi-crystalline polymer is solid at ambient temperature; and (ii)
particles that are solid at ambient temperature; and (iii) at least
one dispersing agent in an amount sufficient to disperse said
particles in said medium.
62. A process for stablizing a cosmetic composition comprising, in
a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty
phase structured by at least one semi-crystalline polymer, said
semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure and being
solid at ambient temperature, and particles that are solid at
ambient temperature comprising including in said cosmetic
composition an effective amount of a dispersing agent.
63. The process of claim 62, wherein said particles are colored
particles.
64. A process for dispersing in a cosmetic composition particles
that are solid at ambient temperature, wherein said composition
comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one
liquid fatty phase structured by at least one semi-crystalline
polymer, said semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure
and being solid at ambient temperature, and particles that are
solid at ambient temperature comprising including in said cosmetic
composition an effective amount of a dispersing agent for said
particles.
65. The process of claim 64, wherein said particles are colored
particles.
Description
[0001] This application claims priority of U.S. Provisional
Application No. 60/294,977, filed Jun. 4, 2001.
[0002] The present invention relates to a composition for caring
for and/or treating and/or making up the skin, including the scalp,
and/or the lips of the face of human beings which comprises a
liquid fatty phase structured by at least one specific polymer and
can be provided in the form of a stick of lipstick, the application
of which results in a glossy, covering and nonsticky deposit.
[0003] It is commonplace, in cosmetic or dermatological products,
to find a structured, namely stiffened, liquid fatty phase; this is
particularly the case in solid compositions, such as deodorants,
lip balms, lipsticks, concealers and cast foundations. This
structuring is obtained using solid particles or fillers, and
waxes. Unfortunately, these fillers or waxes have a tendency to
render the composition matt, which is not always desirable, such as
for a lipstick; this is because women are always looking for a
lipstick in the stick form which deposits an ever glossier
film.
[0004] In accordance with the present invention, the phrase "liquid
fatty phase" is understood to mean a fatty phase which is liquid at
ambient temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760
mm of Hg) and which comprises one or more fatty substances which
are liquid at ambient temperature, also known as oils, and which
are compatible with one another. This fatty phase is
macroscopically homogeneous.
[0005] The structuring of the liquid fatty phase makes it possible
to limit its exudation from solid compositions and, furthermore, to
limit, after deposition on the skin or lips, its migration over
time into the wrinkles and fine lines, which is desired for a
lipstick. The term "migration" is understood to mean overflowing of
the composition and the color from the initial outline. Significant
migration of the liquid fatty phase, laden with coloring materials,
leads to an unsightly effect around the lips, particularly
accentuating the wrinkles and fine lines. This migration is often
mentioned by women as a major failing of conventional lipsticks.
Furthermore, the fillers make it possible to reduce the sticky feel
of some oils, such as castor oil or polyisobutenes, generally used
in lipsticks.
[0006] The gloss is essentially related to the nature of the liquid
fatty phase. Thus, it is possible to reduce the level of fillers
and waxes in the composition in order to increase the gloss of a
lipstick, but then the migration of the liquid fatty phase and/or
the sticky feel of the composition increase. In other words, the
level of fillers and/or of waxes necessary for the preparation of a
cosmetically acceptable stick is a brake on the gloss of the
layer.
[0007] One aspect of the present invention relates to the
manufacture of a stick, and, more generally, of a composition which
is solid at ambient temperature, comprising little or nothing in
the way of fillers and/or little or nothing in the way of waxes,
such as those used conventionally in cosmetics.
[0008] Accordingly, the present invention relates to substituting
all or a portion of the fillers and/or waxes conventionally used in
cosmetic compositions by semi-crystalline polymers which are solid
at ambient temperature and which have an organic structure. There
is an attendant difficulty of introducing solid particles, such as
colored particles, which are insoluble in the medium of these
compositions, such as pigments and pearlescent agents.
[0009] It has been found that, above a few percent of solid
particles, they can later flocculate and aggregate, thus rapidly
destabilizing the compositions at ambient temperature. This can be
troublesome when the composition is in, for example, the solid
form. In addition, the distribution of these particles in the
composition may not be homogeneous, conferring a grainy appearance
and feel; this can be troublesome when the composition is, for
example, a makeup product. This is because such makeup obtained is
nonuniform and unsightly, accentuating the flaws of the substrate
and of the skin, which is entirely the reverse of what is desired
by the consumer. This flocculation is partially due to an
excessively slow rate of structuring (and more especially of
gelling) of the liquid fatty phase by these semi-crystalline
polymers and at the very least slower than that obtained with
waxes.
[0010] One aspect of the invention is a composition for caring for
and/or making up and/or treating keratinous substances, such as the
skin and/or lips of the face and/or superficial body growths, which
makes it possible to overcome at least one of these
disadvantages.
[0011] One aspect of the invention is a composition comprising, in
a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one liquid fatty
phase structured by at least one semi-crystalline polymer having an
organic structure, wherein said semi-crystalline polymer is solid
at ambient temperature; and (ii) particles that are solid at
ambient temperature; and (iii) at least one dispersing agent in an
amount sufficient to disperse said particles in said medium.
[0012] Another aspect of the invention is a product for making up a
keratinous substance comprising, in a physiologically acceptable
medium, (i) at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least
one semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure, wherein
said semi-crystalline polymer is solid at ambient temperature; and
(ii) colored particles that are solid at ambient temperature; and
(iii) at least one dispersing agent in an amount sufficient to
disperse said colored particles in said medium.
[0013] Yet another aspect of the invention is a cosmetic process
for caring for, making up, or treating a keratinous substance of a
human being, comprising applying an effective amount of a
composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i)
at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least one
semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure, wherein said
semi-crystalline polymer is solid at ambient temperature; and (ii)
particles that are solid at ambient temperature; and (iii) at least
one dispersing agent in an amount sufficient to disperse said
particles in said medium.
[0014] Another aspect of the invention is a process of making a
cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable
medium, comprising including in said medium (i) at least one
semi-crystalline polymer that has an organic structure and is solid
at ambient temperature, (ii) particles that are solid at ambient
temperature and are dispersed in said medium; and (iii) at least
one dispersing agent in an amount effective to disperse said
particles in said medium.
[0015] Another aspect of the invention is a process of using a
colloidal dispersion of solid particles in a cosmetic composition
comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one
liquid fatty phase structured by at least one semi-crystalline
polymer, said at least one semi-crystalline polymer having an
organic structure and being solid at ambient temperature,
comprising including in said cosmetic composition a colloidal
dispersion of particles in said composition, wherein the particles
are solid at ambient temperature.
[0016] Another aspect of the invention is a process for coloring
and/or stabilizing a cosmetic composition comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase
structured by at least one semi-crystalline polymer, said
semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure and being
solid at ambient temperature, comprising including in said cosmetic
composition a colloidal dispersion of colored particles that are
solid at ambient temperature in said composition.
[0017] Another aspect of the invention is a method for stabilizing
a cosmetic composition and/or producing a stable cosmetic
composition comprising: including, in a cosmetic composition
comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one
liquid fatty phase structured by at least one semi-crystalline
polymer that has an organic structure and is solid at ambient
temperature and colored particles that are solid at ambient
temperature, comprising including a dispersing agent in said
composition in an amount effective for dispersing said colored
particles.
[0018] Another aspect of the invention is a composition comprising,
in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one liquid
fatty phase structured by at least one semi-crystalline polymer
that has an organic structure, wherein said semi-crystalline
polymer is solid at ambient temperature; and (ii) particles that
are solid at ambient temperature; and (iii) at least one dispersing
agent in an amount sufficient to disperse said particles in said
medium; wherein said semi-crystalline polymer does not comprise a
polysaccharide backbone.
[0019] Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of
semi-crystalline polymers in combination with solid particles and
at least one dispersing agent, even in the absence of conventional
wax and/or of filler, makes it possible to obtain a stable stick,
such as for using in making up, the application of which can result
in a colored, uniform, glossy and nonsticky film which has good
coverage and which does not migrate, with restriction of the
sedimentation of the particles, colored particles for instance, at
the end of the stick.
[0020] The invention applies not only to products for making up the
lips but also to products for caring for and/or treating the lips,
such as balms, and the skin, including the scalp, such as daily
care creams, products for coloring the skin and products for the
antisun protection of the skin of the face, to products for making
up the skin, both of the human face and of the human body, such as
foundations, such as those cast as a stick or in a dish, concealers
and temporary tattooing products, to body hygiene products, such as
deodorants, or stick deodorants, and to products for making up the
eyes, such as eyeliners, such as those in the pencil form, and
mascaras, such as those in the cake form.
[0021] More specifically, one aspect of the invention is a
composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium
comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least
one semi-crystalline polymer with an organic structure which is
solid at ambient temperature and particles which are solid at
ambient temperature and which are dispersed in said medium using at
least one dispersing agent.
[0022] For example, the solid particles can be introduced into the
medium in the form of a colloidal dispersion of said particles.
[0023] The composition of the invention can be provided in the form
of a paste, solid, or cream. It can be an oil-in-water or
water-in-oil emulsion or a solid or soft anhydrous gel. It can be
provided in the anhydrous form or in the form of an anhydrous gel,
such as a stick or in a dish.
[0024] The term "semi-crystalline polymer" is understood to mean,
within the meaning of the invention, polymers comprising a
crystallizable part, a pendent chain or a block in the backbone,
and an amorphous part and exhibiting a first-order reversible phase
change temperature, such as a melting temperature (solid-liquid
transition). The term "polymers" is understood to mean, within the
meaning of the invention, compounds comprising at least two repeat
units, such as at least 3 repeat units and further such as at least
10 repeat units. When the crystallizable part is a block of the
polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is different in
chemical nature from that of the amorphous blocks; the
semi-crystalline polymer is, in this case, a block polymer, for
example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. The term
"block" is understood to mean generally at least 5 identical repeat
units. The crystallizable block or blocks are then different in
chemical nature from the amorphous block or blocks.
[0025] U.S. Pat. No. 5,302,380 (DA) discloses cosmetic compositions
for improved adhesion to the skin comprising atactic polypropylene
homopolymers with a crystallinity of 0.1 to 15% and with a
molecular weight of approximately 1,000 to 10,000. These polymers
comprise neither a crystallizable pendent chain nor a
crystallizable block. Their atactic arrangement, namely irregular
arrangement, does not normally make crystallization possible. In
addition, these polymers provide no discernible structuring of the
compositions comprising them.
[0026] The composition can comprise one or more semi-crystalline
polymers with an organic structure and, for example, at least one
semi-crystalline polymer with a low melting point (also known as
first polymer), in combination with at least one semi-crystalline
polymer with a high melting point (also known as second polymer).
These polymers can exhibit a melting temperature greater than the
temperature of the keratinous substrate intended to receive the
composition such as the lips or the skin, including the scalp.
According to the invention, a semi-crystalline polymer with a low
melting point is a semi-crystalline polymer with a melting
temperature of less than 50.degree. C. and a semi-crystalline
polymer with a high melting point is a semi-crystalline polymer
with a melting temperature at least equal to 50.degree. C.
[0027] This melting temperature can be measured by any known
method, such as by using a differential scanning calorimeter
(D.S.C.).
[0028] The semi-crystalline polymers to which the invention applies
can comprise a) a polymer backbone and b) at least one
crystallizable organic side chain and/or at least one
crystallizable organic block forming part of the polymer
backbone.
[0029] The semi-crystalline polymer or polymers to which the
invention applies can exhibit a number-average molecular mass of
greater than 2,000. The semi-crystalline polymers with a high
melting point which can be used in the invention can be
semi-crystalline polymers with an organic structure which are solid
at ambient temperature and which have a melting temperature of
greater than or equal to 50.degree. C., comprising a) an organic
polymer backbone and b) at least one crystallizable organic side
chain and/or at least one crystallizable organic block forming part
of the polymer backbone, said polymer having a number-average
molecular mass of greater than 2,000.
[0030] The combination of one or more polymers with a high melting
point, and in general of one or more compounds with a high melting
point, with one or more compounds with a low melting point, such as
one or more semi-crystalline polymers with a low melting point,
makes it possible to confer, on the composition, good stability
over time and with temperature. Thus, it is possible to obtain a
composition which remains macroscopically homogeneous without
exudation of the liquid fatty phase, even in a moist atmosphere,
for at least 2 months at 45.degree. C. and atmospheric
pressure.
[0031] Furthermore, the properties of nonmigration of the
composition into the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin, such as
around the lips, but also into the folds of the upper eyelid and
around the eyes, are improved.
[0032] Mention may be made, as another compound with a high melting
point which can be used in the invention, of waxes with a high
melting point (.gtoreq.50.degree. C.), such as some polyethylene
waxes, for example Epolene N-14, sold by Eastman Chemical Co.;
carnauba waxes; and some microcrystalline waxes, such as those sold
by Tisco under the trade name "Tisco wax 88"; and semi-crystalline
polymers. However, it is possible to use, as a compound with a high
melting point, crystalline polymers which are solid at ambient
temperature and which have a melting temperature of greater than
50.degree. C., random polymers comprising controlled
crystallization, as disclosed in the document (D1) EP-A-0 951 897 9
(the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference herein), or
the commercial products Engage 8 401 and Engage 8 402 from Dupont
de Nemours, with melting temperatures of 51.degree. C. and
64.degree. C. respectively, which are random ethylene/1-octene
bipolymers.
Semi-crystalline Polymers
[0033] For example, the semi-crystalline polymer or polymers (with
a high or low melting point) of the composition of the invention
comprise a number-average molecular mass {overscore (M)} n ranging
from 2,000 to 800,000, such as from 3,000 to 500,000, for example
from 4,000 to 150,000. According to another aspect of the
invention, the number-average molecular mass {overscore (M)} n
ranges from 4,000 to 99,000.
[0034] The semi-crystalline polymer or polymers according to the
invention acting as structuring agents are solids which are
nondeformable at ambient temperature (25.degree. C.) and
atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg). They are capable of
structuring, alone or as a mixture, the composition without
addition of a specific surfactant, filler, or wax.
[0035] According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers
with a low melting point and/or the polymers or compounds with a
high melting point are soluble to at least 1% by weight in the
fatty phase at a temperature greater than their melting
temperature. Apart from the crystallizable chains or blocks, the
blocks of the polymers are amorphous. The term "crystallizable
chain or block" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the
invention, a chain or block which, if it were alone, would change
reversibly from the amorphous state to the crystalline state,
according to whether the temperature is above or below the melting
temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group
of atoms which is in the pendent or side position with respect to
the backbone of the polymer. A block is a group of atoms belonging
to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeat units of
the polymer.
[0036] The polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers can be
soluble in the liquid fatty phase.
[0037] According to the invention, the semi-crystalline compound or
compounds with a high melting point can be polymers having a
melting temperature M.p..sub.1 such that 50.degree.
C..ltoreq.M.p..sub.1.ltoreq.1- 50.degree. C., such as 55.degree.
C..ltoreq.M.p..sub.1.ltoreq.150.degree. C. and further such as
60.degree. C..ltoreq.M.p..sub.1.ltoreq.130.degree. C. and the
polymers with a low melting point may have a melting temperature
M.p..sub.2 such that 30.degree. C..ltoreq.M.p..sub.2.ltoreq.5-
0.degree. C., such as 35.degree.
C..ltoreq.M.p..sub.2.ltoreq.45.degree. C. This melting temperature
is a first-order state change temperature.
[0038] Generally, the polymers with a low melting point exhibit a
melting temperature M.p..sub.2 at least equal to the temperature of
the keratinous substrate which has to receive the composition
according to the invention.
[0039] The crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline
polymers may represent at least 30% of the total weight of each
polymer such as at least 40%. The semi-crystalline polymers of the
invention with crystallizable blocks are block or multiblock
polymers. They can be obtained by polymerization of a monomer with
reactive double (or ethylenic) bonds or by polycondensation. When
the polymers of the invention are polymers with crystallizable side
chains, the latter can be in the statistical or random form.
[0040] The semi-crystalline polymers of the invention can be
synthetic in origin. In addition, they may not comprise a
polysaccharide backbone. Generally, the crystallizable units
(chains or blocks) of the semi-crystalline polymers according to
the invention originate from monomer(s) with crystallizable
block(s) or chain(s) used for the manufacture of semi-crystalline
polymers.
[0041] According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer
with a low melting point and the semi-crystalline polymer with a
high melting point are chosen from block copolymers comprising at
least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block,
homopolymers and copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable
side chain per repeat unit, and mixtures thereof.
[0042] The semi-crystalline polymers which can, for example, be
used in the invention are:
[0043] block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled
crystallization, the monomers of which are disclosed in D1,
[0044] polycondensates, such as those of aliphatic or aromatic or
aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,
[0045] homo- or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable
side chain and homo- or copolymers carrying, in the backbone, at
least one crystallizable block, such as those disclosed in (D2)
U.S. Pat. No. 5,156,911 (the disclosure of which is incorporated by
reference herein),
[0046] homo- and copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable
side chain with in particular fluorinated group(s), such as
disclosed in document (D3) WO-A-01/19333 (the disclosure of which
is incorporated by reference herein),
[0047] and mixtures thereof. In the last two cases, the
crystallizable side chain or block or side chains or blocks are
hydrophobic.
[0048] A) Semi-crystalline Polymers with Crystallizable Side
Chains
[0049] Mention may be made of those defined in the documents U.S.
Pat. No. 5,156,911 and WO-A-01/19333.
[0050] These are homopolymers and copolymers comprising from 50% to
100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or
more monomers carrying a crystallizable hydrophobic side chain.
[0051] These homo- and copolymers can have any nature provided that
they exhibit at least the characteristic of being soluble or
dispersible in the liquid fatty phase by heating above their
melting temperature M.p. They can result:
[0052] from the polymerization, such as radical polymerization, of
one or more monomers with reactive double bond(s) or ethylenic
monomers with respect to polymerization, namely with a vinyl,
(meth)acrylic or allyl group,
[0053] from the polycondensation of one or more monomers carrying
coreactive groups (carboxylic or sulfonic acid, alcohol, isocyanate
or amine groups), such as, for example, polyesters, polyurethanes,
polyethers, polyureas or polyamides.
[0054] a) Generally, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of
the semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention originate
from monomers with crystallizable block(s) or chain(s) used for the
manufacture of semi-crystalline polymers. These polymers can be
chosen from the homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the
polymerization of at least one monomer having crystallizable
chain(s) which can be represented by the formula X: 1
[0055] wherein M represents an atom of the polymer backbone, S
represents a spacer, and C represents a crystallizable group.
[0056] The crystallizable chains "--S--C" can be aliphatic or
aromatic and optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. "S" can
represent a linear or branched or cyclic (CH.sub.2).sub.n or
(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.n or (CH.sub.2O) group with n an integer
ranging from 0 to 22. For example, "S" is a linear group.
Substituents "S" and "C" can be different, for instance.
[0057] When the crystallizable chains are hydrocarbonaceous
aliphatic chains, they comprise hydrocarbonaceous alkyl chains with
at least 11 carbon atoms and at most 40 carbon atoms such as at
most 24 carbon atoms. They can be aliphatic chains or alkyl chains
having at least 12 carbon atoms and can be C.sub.14-C.sub.24 alkyl
chains. When they are fluorinated or perfluorinated alkyl chains,
they comprise at least 11 carbon atoms, at least 6 carbon atoms of
which are fluorinated.
[0058] The term "crystallizable chain" is understood to mean a
chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.
[0059] Mention may be made, as examples of semi-crystalline
polymers or copolymers with crystallizable chain(s), of those
resulting from polymerization of one or more following monomers:
saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates with the C.sub.14-C.sub.24 alkyl
group; perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates with a C.sub.11-C.sub.15
perfluoroalkyl group; N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with the C.sub.14 to
C.sub.24 alkyl group, unsubstituted or substituted with at least
one fluorine atom; vinyl esters with alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl)
chains with the C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 alkyl group (with at least 6
fluorine atoms per one perfluoroalkyl chain); vinyl ethers with
alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the C.sub.14 to C.sub.24
alkyl group and at least 6 fluorine atoms per one perfluoroalkyl
chain; C.sub.14 to C.sub.24 .alpha.-olefins, such as, for example,
octadecene; para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group comprising from
12 to 24 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.
[0060] When the polymers result from a polycondensation, the
crystallizable hydrocarbonaceous and/or fluorinated chains as
defined above are carried by a monomer which can be a diacid, a
diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.
[0061] When the polymers which are the subject-matter of the
invention are copolymers, they additionally comprise from 0 to 50%
of Y or Z groups resulting from the copolymerization:
[0062] .alpha.) of Y, which is a polar or nonpolar monomer or a
mixture of the two:
[0063] When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer carrying
polyoxyalkylenated groups (such as oxyethylenated and/or
oxypropylenated groups), a hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate, such as
hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth)acrylamide, an
N-alkyl(meth)acrylamide, an N,N-dialkyl(meth)acrylam- ide, such as,
for example, N,N-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP),
N-vinylcaprolactam, or a monomer carrying at least one carboxylic
acid group, such as (meth)acrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic
acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid, or carrying a carboxylic acid
anhydride group, such as maleic anhydride, and mixtures
thereof.
[0064] When Y is a nonpolar monomer, it can be an ester of the
linear, branched or cyclic alkyl (meth)acrylate type, a vinyl
ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an a-olefin, styrene or styrene
substituted by a C.sub.1-C.sub.10 alkyl group, such as
a-methylstyrene, or a macromonomer of the polyorganosiloxane type
with vinyl unsaturation.
[0065] The term "alkyl" is understood to mean, in accordance with
the present invention, a saturated group, such as a C.sub.8 to
C.sub.24 group, unless specifically mentioned.
[0066] .beta.) of Z, which is a polar monomer or a mixture of polar
monomers. In this case, Z has the same definition as the "polar Y"
defined above.
[0067] The semi-crystalline polymers with a crystallizable side
chain can be alkyl (meth)acrylate or alkyl(meth)acrylamide
homopolymers with an alkyl group as defined above or a
C.sub.14-C.sub.24 alkyl group, copolymers of these monomers with a
hydrophilic monomer, which can be different in nature from
(meth)acrylic acid, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl
(meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0068] B) Polymers Carrying, in the Backbone, at Least One
Crystallizable Block
[0069] These are again polymers which are soluble or dispersible in
the liquid fatty phase by heating above their melting point M.p.
These polymers can be block copolymers composed of at least two
blocks of different chemical natures, one of which is
crystallizable.
[0070] Use may be made of the block polymers defined in U.S. Pat.
No. 5,156,911,
[0071] Block copolymers of olefin or of cycloolefin with a
crystallizable chain, such as those resulting from the block
polymerization of:
[0072] cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (that is
to say, bicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-ene), 5-methyl norbornene,
5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene,
5,5,6-trimethylnorbornene, 5-ethylidenenorbornene,
5-phenylnorbornene, 5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinylnorbornene,
1,4,5,8-dimethano-1,2,3,4,4a,5,8a-octahydronaphthalene- ,
dicyclopentadiene or mixtures thereof,
[0073] with ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene,
1-hexene, 4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-icosene or
mixtures thereof,
[0074] block copoly(ethylene/norbornene)s and
(ethylene/propylene/ethylide- nenorbornene) block terpolymers. Use
may also be made of those resulting from the block copolymerization
of at least 2 C.sub.2-C.sub.16 .alpha.-olefins, such as
C.sub.2-C.sub.12 .alpha.-olefins, such as those mentioned above,
and can be the block bipolymers of ethylene and 1-octene.
[0075] The copolymers can be copolymers exhibiting at least one
crystallizable block, the remainder of the copolymer being
amorphous (at ambient temperature). These copolymers can, in
addition, exhibit two crystallizable blocks of different chemical
natures. The copolymers can have, at ambient temperature, both a
crystallizable block and a both hydrophobic and lipophilic
amorphous block which are sequentially distributed; mention may be
made, for example, of the polymers having one of the following
crystallizable blocks and one of the following amorphous
blocks:
[0076] Block crystallizable by nature: a) polyester, such as
poly(alkylene terephthalate)s, b) polyolefin, such as polyethylenes
or polypropylenes.
[0077] Amorphous and lipophilic block, such as: amorphous
polyolefins or copoly(olefin)s, for example poly(isobutylene),
hydrogenated polybutadiene, hydrogenated poly(isoprene) or
copoly(ethylene/propylene).
[0078] Mention may be made, as examples of such copolymers with a
distinct crystallizable block and with a distinct amorphous block,
of:
[0079] .alpha.) poly(.epsilon.-caprolactone)-b-poly(butadiene)
block copolymers with butadiene, such as those used hydrogenated,
such as those described in the article D4, "Melting behavior of
poly(-caprolactone)-blo- ck-polybutadiene copolymers", by S.
Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999) (the disclosure of
which is incorporated by reference herein).
[0080] .beta.) Block or multiblock hydrogenated poly(butylene
terephthalate)-b-poly(isoprene) block copolymers, cited in the
article D5, "Study of morphological and mechanical properties of
PP/PBT", by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123
(1995) (the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference
herein).
[0081] .gamma.) The poly(ethylene)-b-copoly(ethylene/propylene)
block copolymers cited in the articles D6, "Morphology of
semi-crystalline block copolymers of
ethylene-(ethylene-alt-propylene)", by P. Rangarajan et al.,
Macromolecules, 26, 4640-4645 (1993) and D7, "Polymer aggregates
with crystalline cores: the system
poly(ethylene)-poly(ethylene-propylene- )", by P. Richter et al.,
Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997) (the disclosures of which are
incorporated by reference herein).
[0082] .delta.) The poly(ethylene)-b-poly(ethylethylene) block
copolymers cited in the general article D8, "Crystallization in
block copolymers", by I. W. Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science,
vol.148, 113-137 (1999) (the disclosure of which is incorporated by
reference herein).
[0083] The semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of the
invention may or may not be partially crosslinked provided that the
degree of crosslinking is not harmful to their dissolution or
dispersion in the liquid fatty phase by heating above their melting
temperature. The crosslinking can then be chemical crosslinking, by
reaction with a multifunctional monomer during the polymerization.
It can also be physical crosslinking, which can then be due either
to the establishment of bonds of hydrogen or dipolar type between
groups carried by the polymer, such as, for example, dipolar
interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being
low in degree and carried by the backbone of the polymer, or to
phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and the
amorphous blocks carried by the polymer.
[0084] The semi-crystalline polymers of the composition according
to the invention can be un-crosslinked.
[0085] Mention may be made, as a non-limiting example of
structuring semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the
composition according to the invention, of the Intelimer.RTM.
products from Landec described in the brochure D9 "Intelimer.RTM.
polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97) (the disclosure of which is
incorporated by reference herein). These polymers are in the solid
form at ambient temperature (25.degree. C.). They carry
crystallizable side chains and exhibit the above formula X.
[0086] i) The semi-crystalline polymers with a low melting point
are in particular those disclosed in examples 3, 4, 5, 7 and 9 of
U.S. Pat. No. 5,156,911 comprising a --COOH group, resulting from
the copolymerization of acrylic acid and of C.sub.5 to C.sub.16
alkyl (meth)acrylate with an M.p..sub.2 ranging from 20.degree. C.
to 35.degree. C. or from the copolymerization:
[0087] of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of isodecyl
acrylate in a 1/16/3 ratio,
[0088] of acrylic acid and of pentadecyl acrylate in a 1/19
ratio,
[0089] of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of ethyl acrylate
in a 2.5/76.5/20 ratio,
[0090] of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of methyl
acrylate in a 5/85/10 ratio,
[0091] of acrylic acid and of polyoctadecyl methacrylate in a
2.5/97.5 ratio.
[0092] Use may also be made of the polymer referenced Structure "O"
from National Starch, such as that disclosed in U.S. Pat. No.
5,736,125 (D10) (the disclosure of which is incorporated by
reference herein) with an M.p..sub.2 of 44.degree. C., and of
semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable pendent chains
comprising fluorinated groups, such as disclosed in Examples 1, 4,
6, 7 and 8 of WO-A-01/19333.
[0093] Use may also be made of the semi-crystalline polymers with a
low melting point obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate
and of acrylic acid or of NVP, as disclosed in the document U.S.
Pat. No. 5,519,063 (D11) or EP-A-0 550 745 (D12) (the disclosures
of which are incorporated by reference herein), and as well as
those described in the polymer preparation Examples 1 and 2 below,
with melting temperatures of 40.degree. C. and 38.degree. C.
respectively.
[0094] ii) The semi-crystalline polymers with a high melting point
such as the Intelimer described in document D9, with a melting
temperature M.p..sub.1 of 56.degree. C., which is a product which
is viscous at ambient temperature, impermeable and nonsticky.
[0095] Use may also be made of the semi-crystalline polymers
obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and of acrylic
acid or of NVP as disclosed in the documents D11 and D12 or those
described in the polymer preparation Examples 3 and 4 below, with
melting temperatures of 60.degree. C. and 58.degree. C.
respectively.
[0096] The semi-crystalline polymers with a low melting point
and/or those with a high melting point may not comprise a carboxyl
group.
[0097] The gelling of the fatty phase can be adjusted according to
the nature of the polymers and their respective concentrations and
can be such that a rigid structure in the form of a stick is
obtained.
[0098] The level of each polymer is chosen according to the desired
hardness of the composition and according to the specific
application envisaged. The respective amounts of polymer can be
such that they make it possible to obtain a solid which can
disintegrate, exhibiting a hardness ranging from 100 to 350 gf, for
example. This hardness can be measured by the "cheese wire" method,
which comprises cutting a stick of lipstick with a diameter of 12.7
mm and in measuring the hardness at 20.degree. C. by means of a
DFGHS 2 dynamometer from Indelco-Chatillon moving at a rate of 100
mm/minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in
gram-force) needed to cut a stick under these conditions.
[0099] This hardness is such that the composition is
self-supporting and can easily disintegrate to form a satisfactory
layer on the skin and the lips. In addition, with this hardness,
the composition of the invention in the cast form, such as a stick,
possesses good impact strength.
[0100] The composition of the invention can be provided in the form
of a solid stick with a hardness ranging from 100 gf to 350 gf,
measured according to the "cheese wire" method. However, it is
possible to use an amount of semi-crystalline polymer such that the
composition is in the form of a soft paste which can be applied
with a finger or using an applicator to keratinous substances.
[0101] In practice, the total amount of semi-crystalline polymer
represents, for example, from 0.1 to 80% of the total weight of the
composition, such as from 0.5 to 40% and further such as from 3 to
30%. In an example, the total amount of semi-crystalline polymer
represents more than 10% by weight of the composition.
[0102] According to the invention, the semi-crystalline or
crystalline compound with a high melting point and that with a low
melting point are, for example, in a ratio by weight ranging from
10/90 to 90/10 such as from 40/60 to 60/40.
[0103] The ratio by weight of semi-crystalline polymer with an
organic structure with respect to the liquid fatty phase is from
0.20 to 0.60 such as from 0.25 to 0.50, to obtain a hard stick
which disintegrates on contact with the skin or lips and may have a
hardness ranging from 100 to 350 gf.
[0104] The sticks according to the invention, when they are
colored, make it possible, after application, to obtain a glossy
and nonsticky layer which is homogeneous in color and which has
good coverage (that is to say that the skin or lips do not appear
under the makeup).
The Liquid Fatty Phase
[0105] The liquid fatty phase, structured by the semi-crystalline
polymers with a low melting point and/or the semi-crystalline
polymers with a high melting point, can constitute the continuous
phase of the composition. This fatty phase can comprise one or more
nonpolar or polar oils or a mixture of nonpolar oil(s) and of polar
oil(s).
[0106] The nonpolar oils according to the invention can be silicone
oils, such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) which
are liquid at ambient temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising
pendent alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups and/or alkyl, alkoxy or
phenyl groups at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have
from 2 to 24 carbon atoms and which polydimethylsiloxanes are
liquid at ambient temperature; liquid phenylated silicones, such as
phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,
phenyl-trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or
(2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilic- ates; liquid linear or
branched hydrocarbons or fluorocarbons of synthetic or mineral
origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, liquid
petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as
Parleam.RTM. (hydrogenated isoparaffin), sold by Nippon Oil Fatts,
isoparaffins or squalane; or mixtures thereof. The nonpolar oils
used can be liquid nonpolar oils of the hydrocarbonaceous type of
mineral or synthetic origin and can, for example, be chosen from
Parleam.RTM. oil (hydrogenated isoparaffin), isoparaffins,
squalane, and mixtures thereof. The liquid fatty phase can comprise
at least one hydrocarbonaceous oil of mineral or synthetic
origin.
[0107] The term "hydrocarbonaceous oil" is understood to mean,
within the meaning of the invention, oils predominantly comprising
carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms such as alkyl or alkenyl chains,
such as alkanes or alkenes, but also oils with an alkyl or alkenyl
chain comprising one or more ether, ester, hydroxyl or carboxylic
acid groups.
[0108] It is possible to add polar oils to the nonpolar oils, the
nonpolar oils acting as cosolvent for the polar oils, for
example.
[0109] Nonlimiting examples of the polar oils useful according to
the present invention include:
[0110] hydrocarbonaceous vegetable oils with a high content of
triglycerides composed of esters of (C.sub.8 to C.sub.24) fatty
acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have various
chain lengths, it being possible for the chains to be linear or
branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils can be wheat
germ, maize, sunflower, karite, castor, sweet almond, macadamia,
apricot, soybean, rapeseed, cottonseed, alfalfa, poppy,
pumpkinseed, sesame, cucumber, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed,
blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive,
rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower or musk rose oils; or
triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by
Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812
and 818 by Dynamit Nobel;
[0111] synthetic oils of formula R.sub.5COOR.sub.6 in which R.sub.5
represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid
comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R.sub.6 represents a
branched hydrocarbonaceous chain comprising from 3 to 40 carbon
atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate),
isononyl isononanoate or C.sub.12 to C.sub.15 alkyl benzoate;
[0112] synthetic esters and ethers, such as isopropyl myristate,
2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of
alcohols or of polyalcohols, hydroxylated esters, such as
isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol
esters;
[0113] C.sub.8 to C.sub.26 fatty alcohols, such as oleyl
alcohol;
[0114] fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as oleic
acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
[0115] and mixtures thereof.
[0116] The fatty phase can represent, in practice, from 5 to 99% of
the total weight of the composition, such as from 20 to 80%. It may
represent at least 60% of the total weight of the composition.
The Solid Particles
[0117] The composition additionally comprises particles which are
solid at ambient temperature and which are dispersed in the
physically acceptable medium of the composition, and in the
structured liquid fatty phase, using a dispersing agent, for
instance. These particles can be introduced into the composition in
the form of a colloidal dispersion known as a "particulate paste".
These particles can be chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents,
fillers and mixtures thereof. These particles can be of any shape,
such as spherical shape or elongate shape, such as fibers. They can
be colored.
[0118] The term "particulate paste" is understood to mean, within
the meaning of the invention, a concentrated colloidal dispersion
of particles in a continuous medium, which particles are solid at
ambient temperature (25.degree. C.) and are coated or uncoated and
which dispersion is stabilized using a dispersing agent or
optionally without a dispersing agent. They are insoluble in the
medium.
[0119] The colloidal dispersion is a suspension of particles of
generally micronic size (<10 .mu.m) in a continuous medium. The
fraction by volume of particles in a concentrated dispersion is
from 20% to 40%, such as greater than 30%, which corresponds to a
content by weight which can range up to 70%, according to the size
of the particles.
[0120] The continuous medium of the paste can have any composition
and can comprise any solvent or liquid fatty substance and mixtures
thereof. The liquid medium of the particulate paste is one of the
liquid fatty substances or oils which it is desired to use in the
composition, thus forming part of the liquid fatty phase.
[0121] The particles dispersed in the medium can be composed of
inorganic or organic particles or mixtures thereof, such as those
described below.
[0122] The "particulate paste" can be a "pigmentary paste"
comprising a colloidal dispersion of colored particles which may or
may not be coated. These colored particles are pigments,
pearlescent agents, or a mixture of pigments and pearlescent
agents.
[0123] The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and/or
organic and coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among
inorganic pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally treated at the
surface, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc, iron or chromium oxides
(the iron oxides being black, yellow or red), manganese violet,
ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Mention may be
made, among organic pigments, of carbon black, pigments of D &
C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium,
strontium, calcium or aluminum (such as D & C red 27, 21 or 7,
D & C yellow 5 or 6, or F D & C blue No. 1). The pigments
can represent from 0.1 to 50% as active material such as from 0.5
to 35% and further such as from 2 to 25% of the total weight of the
composition.
[0124] The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white
pearlescent pigments, such as mica covered with titanium oxide or
with bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments, such as
titanium oxide-coated mica with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated
mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated
mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and
pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can
represent from 0 to 25% as active material (0.05 to 25%) of the
total weight of the composition such as from 0.1 to 15% (if
present).
[0125] The colloidal dispersion may represent from 0.1 to 60% by
weight of the composition such as from 2 to 40% (if present).
The Dispersing Agent
[0126] The composition according to the invention comprises one or
more dispersing agents which can be added independently of the
solid particles or in the form of the colloidal dispersion of
particles.
[0127] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed
particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. The
concentration of dispersing agent generally used to satisfactorily
disperse solid particles (without flocculation) and to stabilize a
colloidal dispersion of particles is from 0.3 to 5 mg/m.sup.2 of
the particle surface area, for example from 0.5 to 4 mg/m.sup.2 of
the particle surface area. This dispersing agent can be a
surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them,
carrying one or more functionalities having a high affinity for the
surface of the particles to be dispersed. They can attach
physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. In
addition, these dispersing agents can exhibit at least one
functional group compatible with or soluble in the continuous
medium. Use can be, for example, made of esters of
poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), such as the stearate of
poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) with a molecular weight of
approximately 750 g/mol, such as that sold under the name of
Solsperse 21 000 by Avecia, esters of poly(12-hydroxystearic acid)
with polyols, such as glycerol or diglycerol, for example
polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name), sold under the
reference Dehymuls PGPH by Henkel (or diglyceryl
poly(12-hydroxystearate)), or else poly(12-hydroxystearic acid),
such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema, and
mixtures thereof.
[0128] Mention may be made, as another dispersing agent which can
be used in the composition of the invention, of quaternary ammonium
derivatives of fatty acids which are polycondensed, such as
Solsperse 17 000 sold by Avecia, or
polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene mixtures, such as those sold by
Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
[0129] Polydihydroxystearic acid and esters of
poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) can be used for a hydrocarbonaceous or
fluorinated medium, whereas oxyethylene/oxypropylenated
dimethylsiloxane mixtures can be used for a silicone medium.
The Additives
[0130] The composition of the invention can additionally comprise
any additive conventionally used in the field under consideration
chosen from water, optionally thickened by an aqueous-phase
thickener or gelling agent; coloring materials which are soluble in
the medium; antioxidants; essential oils; preservatives;
fragrances; pasty fatty substances or waxes other than the
compounds with a high melting point; neutralizing agents; and
mixtures thereof. These additives can be present in the composition
according to the amounts generally used in the cosmetics and
dermatological field, for example in an amount ranging from 0.01 to
50% of the total weight of the composition, for example, such as
from 0.1 to 20%. The water can represent up to 70% of the total
weight of the composition.
[0131] Of course, a person skilled in the art would take care to
choose the optional additional additives and/or their amounts so
that the advantageous properties of the composition according to
the invention, namely gloss, nonstickiness, coverage and
nonmigration, for example, are not, or not substantially,
detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.
[0132] The composition according to the invention can be provided
in the form of a dermatological composition or of a composition for
caring for the skin and/or superficial body growths or in the form
of a sun protection composition, care composition for the face or
body, or body hygiene composition, such as in the form of a
deodorant. It can be provided in the colorless form. It can then be
used as care base for the skin, superficial body growths or lips
(lip balms, protecting the lips from the cold and/or the sun and/or
the wind, care cream for the skin, nails or hair), a shampoo or a
conditioner, or a sun protection product.
[0133] The composition of the invention can also be provided in the
form of a colored product, such as for making up the skin,
optionally exhibiting care or treatment properties, and can, for
example, be a foundation; a blusher; a face powder; an eyeshadow; a
concealer; an eyeliner or a product for making up the body; a
product for making up the lips, such as a lipstick, a lip gloss or
a lip pencil, optionally exhibiting care or treatment properties;
or for making up the superficial body growths, such as the nails,
eyelashes (in the form of, for example, a mascara), eyebrows, and
hair.
[0134] Of course, the composition of the invention has to be
cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely comprise a
nontoxic physiologically acceptable medium capable of being applied
to the skin, superficial body growths or lips of the face of human
beings. The term "cosmetically acceptable" is understood to mean,
in accordance with the present invention, a composition with at
least one of a pleasant appearance, pleasant feel, pleasant smell,
and pleasant taste.
[0135] The composition may comprise at least one coloring material
which is soluble in the medium which can be chosen from lipophilic
dyes, hydrophilic dyes, commonly used in cosmetic or dermatological
compositions, and mixtures thereof. This coloring material is
generally present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% of the
total weight of the composition, such as of from 0.1 to 10% (if
present).
[0136] The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, D & C
Red 17, D & C Green 6, .beta.-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan
brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C orange 5,
quinoline yellow or annatto. They can be present in an amount
ranging from 0 to 20% (0.001 to 20%) of the weight of the
composition, such as from 0.1 to 6% (if present). The water-soluble
dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue and can
represent up to 6% of the total weight of the composition.
[0137] Use may also be made, in the composition of the invention,
of at least one wax, such as those used up to the present time in
cosmetics.
[0138] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a
lipophilic fatty compound which is solid at ambient temperature
(25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), which has a
reversible solid/liquid state change, which has a melting
temperature of greater than 40.degree. C., for example greater than
50.degree. C., which can range up to 200.degree. C., and which
exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline
organization. The size of the crystals is such that the crystals
diffract and/or scatter light, conferring a more or less opaque
cloudy appearance on the composition. On bringing the wax to its
melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with the
oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture but, on
returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature,
recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is
obtained. This recrystallization from the mixture may be
responsible for the decrease in the gloss of said mixture.
Consequently, the composition can comprise little or nothing in the
way of conventional waxes, such as less than 20% by weight of
conventional wax, or further such as less than 10% with respect to
the total weight of the composition.
[0139] Conventional waxes, within the meaning of the application,
are those generally used in the cosmetics and dermatological
fields; they can be of natural origin, such as beeswax, candelilla
wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugarcane wax,
paraffin or lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes with a melting
point >50.degree. C., lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites, or
hydrogenated oils, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, but also of
synthetic origin, such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the
polymerization of ethylene and the waxes obtained by the
Fischer-Tropsch synthesis with a melting point >50.degree. C.,
fatty acid esters and glycerides which are solid at 50.degree. C.,
or silicone waxes, such as alkyl or alkoxy poly(di)methylsiloxanes
and/or poly(di)methylsiloxane esters which are solid at 50.degree.
C.
[0140] The composition of the invention can comprise little or
nothing in the way of "mattifying" fillers, such as less than 5% of
mattifying filler. This can be the case when it is desired to
obtain a glossy layer on keratinous substances, such as the lips,
eyelashes and hair. For a foundation, on the other hand, fillers of
this type may be used. A mattifying filler is generally a filler
which absorbs sweat and/or sebum from the skin. Suitable
non-limiting examples of such mattifying filters include silicas,
talcs, clays, kaolins, polyamide (Nylon.RTM.) powders, and
starch.
[0141] These fillers can be introduced in the form of a particulate
paste, for example.
[0142] The composition according to the invention can be
manufactured by known processes used generally in the cosmetics or
dermatological field. It can, for example, be manufactured by the
process which comprises heating the polymer at least to its melting
temperature, in adding thereto the optional amphiphilic compound or
compounds, the coloring materials soluble in the medium, the
pigmentary pastes and the additives, and in then mixing the
combined mixture until a clear and translucent solution is
obtained. The homogeneous mixture obtained can then be poured into
an appropriate mold, such as a lipstick mold, or directly into the
packaging articles, such as a case or dish.
[0143] The composition of the invention can be a product for making
up keratinous substances and further can be a lipstick comprising a
physiologically acceptable medium comprising a liquid fatty phase
structured by at least one semi-crystalline polymer with an organic
structure which is solid at ambient temperature and colored
particles which are solid at ambient temperature and which are
dispersed in said medium using at least one dispersing agent; the
liquid fatty phase is structured by at least one semi-crystalline
polymer with an organic structure which is solid at ambient
temperature comprising a) a polymer backbone and b) at least one
crystallizable organic side chain and/or one crystallizable organic
block forming part of the polymer, said polymer having a
number-average molecular mass of greater than 2,000; the liquid
fatty phase and the polymer can form a medium which is
physiologically acceptable for keratinous substances, such as the
lips. For example, the colored particles can be introduced into the
medium in the form of a colloidal dispersion of said colored
particles. This makeup product can comprise a continuous fatty
phase composed of all or a portion of the structured liquid fatty
phase. This makeup product can also comprise a semi-crystalline
polymer with a low melting point and a compound with a high melting
point as described above, such as using a second semi-crystalline
polymer.
[0144] An additional aspect of the invention is a cosmetic process
for caring for, making up or treating the keratinous substances of
human beings, such as the skin or the lips of the face and the
superficial body growths of human beings, comprising the
application, to the keratinous substances, of the composition, such
as a cosmetic composition, as defined above.
[0145] A further aspect of the invention is a process for the
manufacture of a composition comprising a physiologically
acceptable medium comprising at least one semi-crystalline polymer
with an organic structure which is solid at ambient temperature and
particles which are solid at ambient temperature and which are
dispersed in said medium, wherein said process comprises
introducing in said composition at least one agent for dispersing
said particles.
[0146] A further aspect of the invention is the use, such as
cosmetic use, of a colloidal dispersion of particles which are
solid at ambient temperature in a composition, such as in a
cosmetic composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable
medium comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at
least one semi-crystalline polymer with an organic structure which
is solid at ambient temperature.
[0147] Yet another aspect of the invention is the cosmetic use of a
colloidal dispersion of colored particles which are solid at
ambient temperature in a composition, such as in a cosmetic
composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium
comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least
one semi-crystalline polymer with an organic structure which is
solid at ambient temperature, as agent for coloring and/or as agent
for stabilizing said composition.
[0148] An additional aspect of the invention is the cosmetic use of
an agent for dispersing particles, such as colored particles, which
are solid at ambient temperature in a composition, such as a
cosmetic composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable
medium comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at
least one semi-crystalline polymer with an organic structure which
is solid at ambient temperature and particles which are solid at
ambient temperature, such as colored particles, for producing a
stable composition and/or as agent for stabilizing said
composition.
[0149] As defined herein, stability involves substantially
avoiding, at room temperature, i.e., 25.degree. C., exudation of
oil and flocculation and aggregation of solid particles, such as
pigments and nacres.
[0150] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may
exhibit treating properties. For example, the combination of a
polymer with a low melting point and of a polymer with a high
melting point can be used for the manufacture of a physiologically
acceptable composition and in a nonmigrating dermatological
composition, for instance. Thus, it is possible to keep the
composition in place where it has been deposited, and to thus
improve its local action and its effectiveness.
[0151] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following
examples. The amounts are given as percentages by mass.
I) EXAMPLES OF THE MANUFACTURE OF SEMI-CRYSTALLINE POLYMERS
Example 1
Acidic Polymer with a Melting Point of 40.degree. C.
[0152] 120 g of Parleam are introduced into a 1 I reactor equipped
with a central anchor stirrer, a reflux condenser and thermometer
and are heated from ambient temperature to 80.degree. C. for 45
min. The following mixture C.sub.1:
[0153] 40 g of cyclohexane+4 g of Triganox 141
[2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylper- oxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane],
[0154] is introduced at 80.degree. C. over 2 h.
[0155] 30 min after beginning to run in the mixture C.sub.1, the
mixture C.sub.2, composed of:
[0156] 190 g of stearyl acrylate+10 g of acrylic acid+400 g of
cyclohexane,
[0157] is introduced over 1 h 30.
[0158] At the end of the two additions, the reaction mixture is
allowed to act for an additional 3 h at 80.degree. C. and then all
the cyclohexane present in the reaction mixture is distilled off at
atmospheric pressure.
[0159] The polymer comprising 60% by weight of active material in
Parleam is then obtained. Its weight-average molecular mass M.sub.w
is 35 000, expressed as polystyrene equivalent, and its melting
temperature M.t. is 40.degree. C..+-.1.degree. C., measured by
D.S.C.
Example 2
Basic Polymer with a Melting Point of 38.degree. C.
[0160] The same procedure is applied as in Example 1, except that
N-vinylpyrrolidone is used instead of acrylic acid.
[0161] The polymer obtained is at 60% by weight of active material
in Parleam, its weight-average molecular mass M.sub.w is 38 000 and
its M.t. is 38.degree. C.
Example 3
Acidic Polymer with a Melting Point of 60.degree. C.
[0162] The same procedure is applied as in Example 1, except that
behenyl acrylate is used instead of stearyl acrylate. The polymer
obtained is at 60% by weight of active material in Parleam. Its
weight-average molecular mass M.sub.w is 42 000 and its M.t. is
60.degree. C.
Example 4
Basic Polymer with a Melting Point of 58.degree. C.
[0163] The same procedure is applied as in Example 2, except that
behenyl acrylate is used instead of stearyl acrylate. The polymer
obtained is at 60% by weight of active material in Parleam. Its
molecular mass M.sub.w is 45 000 and its M.t. is 58.degree. C.
II) Composition examples
Example 5
Lipstick Formula
[0164]
1 95/5 Stearyl acrylate/NVP copolymer 10.1% comprising 60% of
active material in Parleam according to Example 2 Behenyl
acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer 10.1% comprising 60% of active
material in Parleam according to Example 3 Pigmentary paste 17.7%
Hydrogenated isoparaffin (Parleam) q.s. for 100%
[0165] Preparation: The polymers are dissolved in a portion of the
oil at 100.degree. C. and then the addition is carried out of the
pigments, milled beforehand using a triple roll mill, with a
portion of the oily phase. The entire combination is mixed using a
magnetic bar and then poured into lipstick molds. The pigmentary
paste contains 49% of pigments (D & C Red No. 7+Yellow No. 6
(aluminum lake)+titanium dioxide), 7.5% of poly(12-hydroxystearic)
acid stearate and 43.5% of Parleam, which is a hydrogenated
isoparaffin (6-8 mol of isobutylene).
[0166] The pigmentary paste is obtained using a disperser-mill of
Dispermat type and heating the Parleam at 25-30.degree. C. for
approximately 30 minutes. It is stable for at least 3 months at
ambient temperature, that is to say that no sedimentation is
observable even with stirring.
[0167] A stick of lipstick is obtained which has a hardness of 117
gf, measured by the "cheese wire" method. The lipstick obtained is
glossy, nonsticky and nonmigrating. This was confirmed by a
comparative sensory test on a panel of experts, by half-lips, with
a glossy product of the prior art Rouge Absolu from Lancme. The
lipstick of the invention was judged to be as glossy on application
as that of the prior art by all the testers, with much slighter
migration. In addition, no flocculation or aggregation of the
pigments was observed. The makeup of the lips obtained is uniform
and covering.
Example 6
Lipstick Formula
[0168]
2 Copolymer according to Example 3 12.5% Copolymer according to
Example 1 12.5% Pigmentary paste 17.7% Hydrogenated isoparaffin
q.s. for 100%
[0169] The composition of the pigmentary paste is identical to that
of Example 5.
[0170] This lipstick in the form of a stick was prepared as in
Example 5. It is glossy, nonsticky, uniform, covering and
nonmigrating. It was judged by a panel of experts in comparison
with a lipstick of the prior art Rouge Magnetique from Lancme,
regarded as not very migrating. The lipstick of the invention was
judged to be glossier than Rouge Magnetique for comparable
properties of nonmigration. In addition, no flocculation or
aggregation of the pigments was observed.
[0171] The lipstick of the prior art, Rouge Absolu and Rouge
Magntique, do not comprise semi-crystalline polymers based on
melting point, in combination in particular with a crystalline or
semi-crystalline compound with a high melting point.
Example 7
Lipstick Formula
[0172] It differs from Example 5 by the use of a polyethylene wax
(Performalen 500, sold by Petrolite), with a melting point of
83.degree. C. to within about 1.degree. C., instead of the polymer
of Example 3. The cosmetic properties obtained are comparable to
those of the formula of Example 5.
Example 8
Lipstick Formula
[0173]
3 Engage 8400 10.0% Copolymer of Example 1 10.1% Pigmentary paste
17.7% Hydrogenated liquid paraffin q.s. for 100%
[0174] The pigmentary paste is identical to that of Example 5.
[0175] The manufacture of this lipstick as a stick is identical to
that of Example 5.
Example 9
Lipstick Formula
[0176]
4 Stearyl acrylate/acrylic acid (95/5) 25% copolymer comprising 50%
of active material in Parleam Behenyl acrylate/N-vinylpyrrolidone
(95/5) 25% copolymer comprising 62.5% of active material in Parleam
Solsperse 21000 (poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) 2% Pigments 8.66%
Hydrogenated isoparaffin q.s. for 100%
[0177] Preparation: the polymers are dissolved in a portion of the
oil at 100.degree. C. and then the addition is carried out of the
pigments, which were milled beforehand using a triple roll mill,
with a portion of the oily phase. The entire combination is mixed
using a magnetic bar and is then poured into lipstick molds. The
pigments are in accordance with Example 5.
[0178] A stick of lipstick is obtained which has a hardness of 227
gf.+-.20 gf, measured by the "cheese wire" method, is nonmigrating,
is nonsticky, is easily deposited on the lips and gives a satiny
layer.
Example 10
Lipstick Formula
[0179]
5 Behenyl methacrylate/acrylic acid (95/5) 25% copolymer at 50% in
Parleam Behenyl acrylate/N-vinylpyrrolidone (95/5) 25% copolymer at
62.5% in Parleam Solsperse 21000 (poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) 2%
Pigments 8.66% Hydrogenated isoparaffin q.s. for 100%
[0180] Preparation: the polymers are dissolved in a portion of the
oil at 100.degree. C. and then the addition is carried out of the
pigments, which were milled beforehand using a triple roll mill,
with a portion of the oily phase. The entire combination is mixed
using a magnetic bar and is then poured into lipstick molds. The
pigments are in accordance with Example 5.
[0181] A stick of lipstick is obtained which has a hardness of 342
gf.+-.20 gf, measured by the "cheese wire" method, is nonmigrating,
is nonsticky, is easily deposited on the lips and gives a satiny
layer.
* * * * *