U.S. patent application number 10/768973 was filed with the patent office on 2005-04-14 for method of making jewelry including stones and rings.
Invention is credited to Armstrong, David N., Camargo, Anthony T..
Application Number | 20050076507 10/768973 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 34426343 |
Filed Date | 2005-04-14 |
United States Patent
Application |
20050076507 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Camargo, Anthony T. ; et
al. |
April 14, 2005 |
Method of making jewelry including stones and rings
Abstract
Jewelry can include a stone and a setting. The setting can
include rings, wherein at least one of the rings contacts the
stone. The rings may be in the form of chains, netting, or both.
The rings can be attached to the stone using anchor(s), so that the
setting cannot be removed from stone unless the stone, a ring, an
anchor or combination thereof is broken or, in the case of hooks,
removed only with great difficulty or irreversibly damaging the
hooks (e.g., when separating ring and hook combinations). The
configurations for the settings and stones and methods described
herein can substantially increase the options for designing
jewelry, and particularly the use and arrangement of stones in
jewelry.
Inventors: |
Camargo, Anthony T.;
(Austin, TX) ; Armstrong, David N.; (Austin,
TX) |
Correspondence
Address: |
JONES DAY
717 TEXAS, SUITE 3300
HOUSTON
TX
77002
US
|
Family ID: |
34426343 |
Appl. No.: |
10/768973 |
Filed: |
January 30, 2004 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
60527585 |
Dec 5, 2003 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
29/896.41 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A44C 27/00 20130101;
Y10T 29/4959 20150115; A44C 17/02 20130101; A44C 11/00
20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
029/896.41 |
International
Class: |
A44C 027/00 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A method of making jewelry comprising: attaching a first end of
a chain or netting to an anchor; placing the chain or netting along
a surface of a stone; and attaching a second end of the chain or
netting to a different or same anchor.
2. The method of claim 1, further comprising: drilling a hole
partially through the stone; and placing a pin into the hole,
wherein the anchor comprises the pin.
3. The method of claim 1, further comprising: drilling a hole
completely through the stone; inserting a wire through the hole;
and forming a first loop and a second loop at opposite ends of the
wire.
4. The method of claim 3, wherein: attaching the first end of the
chain comprises attaching the first end of the chain or netting to
the first loop; attaching the second end of the chain comprises
attaching the second end of the chain or netting to the second
loop.
5. The method of claim 1, wherein placing comprises wrapping the
netting so that the netting surrounds at least half of a perimeter
of the stone.
6. The method of claim 5, further comprising fabricating the
netting so that the netting conforms to the surface of the
stone.
7. The method of claim 6, wherein fabricating the netting
comprises: fabricating a triangular end; and fabricating a main
section extending from the triangular end, wherein along a length
of the main section, portions of an inner row are fabricated before
corresponding portions of an outer row are fabricated.
8. The method of claim 1, wherein the anchor comprises a cap or a
halo.
9. The method of claim 1, wherein the chain or netting is at least
part of a setting for the stone.
10. A method of making jewelry comprising: attaching first ends of
a first chain and a second chain to an anchor; attaching first ends
of a third chain and a fourth chain to a different or same anchor;
and attaching second ends of the first, second, third, fourth
chains together near a common point so that the first, second
third, and fourth chains contact the stone.
11. The method of claim 10, further comprising: placing the first
and third chains along a surface of the stone; and placing the
second and fourth chains along an opposite surface of the
stone.
12. The method of claim 11, attaching the second ends comprises:
attaching second ends of the first and third chains together using
a first ring; attaching the second ends of the second and fourth
chains together using a second ring; and attaching the first and
second rings together using a third ring.
13. The method of claim 10, wherein the anchor comprises a first
loop and the different or same anchor comprises a second loop
spaced apart from the first loop.
14. The method of claim 10, wherein: a first ring is attached to
the anchor and to the first ends of the first and second chains;
and a second ring is attached to the different or same anchor and
to the first ends of the third and fourth chains.
15. The jewelry of claim 14, further comprising additional rings
each attached to pairs of chains similar to the first and second
rings and the first, second, third, and fourth chains, wherein
second ends of the pairs of the chains are attached together near
the common point.
16. The method of claim 10, wherein the anchor comprises a cap or
halo.
17. The method of claim 16, further comprising placing a portion of
the stone completely through an annular opening of the halo.
18. The method of claim 10, wherein attaching second ends of the
first, second, third, fourth chains is performed so that the first,
second, third, fourth chains are snug.
19. A method of making jewelry comprising: wrapping a netting
substantially around a perimeter of a stone; and attaching opposite
ends of the netting together to form a setting for the stone.
20. The method of claim 19, wherein the stone lies within a cradle
of the netting.
21. The method of claim 19, wherein attaching the opposite ends is
performed using a wire.
22. The method of claim 19, wherein attaching the opposite ends is
performed using at least one ring.
Description
RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims priority under 35 U.S.C. .sctn.
119(e) to U.S. patent application Ser. No. 60/527,585 entitled
"Jewelry Including Stones and Rings and Methods of Making the Same"
by Camargo et al. filed Dec. 5, 2003, and is related to U.S. patent
application Ser. No. ______, entitled "Jewelry Including Stones and
Rings" by Camargo et al. filed on the same date as this
application. All applications recited in this paragraph are
assigned to the current assignee hereof and incorporated herein in
their entirety by reference.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The invention relates in general to jewelry and methods of
making the same, and more particularly, to jewelry including stones
and chains attached to stones and methods of making the
jewelry.
RELATED ART
[0003] Jewelry can include stones that are presented in many
different ways, such as with chains or netting. When jewelry
includes stones with chains or netting, the stones are typically
mounted in a setting, which in turn is connected to the chains or
netting. The chains or netting are part of the setting for the
stone. The chains or netting typically lie lateral to the stone as
to not contact the stone or "hide" the stone from someone (an
observer) looking at the jewelry when worn by another person.
[0004] One example of the previously mentioned setting includes a
crimped piece of metal that has a surface that generally conforms
to a surface of the stone. The crimped piece of metal is formed by
placing a hard piece of metal over the stone and pounding the metal
down around the stone. The stone is attached to the crimped piece
of metal using an adhesive compound (e.g., jewelry glue). The
adhesive compound holds the stone in place, and the chains or
netting are attached to the crimped piece of metal, not the
stone.
[0005] Another example of the setting includes a piece of metal
with prongs. The metal can be crimped as described previous. After
the stone is mounted on the piece of metal, the prongs are bent to
hold the stone in place. Chains and netting can then be attached to
the piece of metal, not the stone.
[0006] In both instances, the chains or netting are not part of the
setting for the stone. Further, the chains or netting may not
contact any part of the stone. Such constraints limit the freedom
of jewelry designers to design jewelry using stones with chains or
netting.
[0007] Another presentation of a stone in jewelry includes wrapping
a stone with a piece of solid core wire. The setting for the stone
is being created as the wire is wrapped around the stone. Reworking
the setting using this method can be very difficult and may
sometimes be impossible. The solid core wire is essentially fixed
in position and does not allow any significant movement of the wire
without risking permanent changes in the shape formed by the wire.
In other words, the wire is to remain in a fixed position. Movement
of the wire may significantly alter the presentation and diminish
the value of the jewelry.
SUMMARY
[0008] Methods can be used to make jewelry including a stone and a
setting. The setting can include rings, wherein at least one of the
rings contacts the stone. The rings may be in the form of chains,
netting, or both. The rings can be attached to the stone using
anchor(s), so that the setting cannot be removed from stone unless
the stone, a ring, an anchor or combination thereof is broken or,
in the case of hooks, removed only with great difficulty or
irreversibly damaging the hooks (e.g., when separating ring and
hook combinations). The configurations for the settings and stones
and methods described herein can substantially increase the options
for designing jewelry, and particularly the use and arrangement of
stones in jewelry.
[0009] In one set of embodiments, a method of making jewelry can
include attaching an end of a chain or netting to an anchor. The
method can also include placing the chain or netting along a
surface of a stone. The method can further include attaching
another end of the chain or netting to the same or different
anchor.
[0010] In another set of embodiments, a method of making jewelry
can include attaching ends of a first chain and a second chain to
an anchor and attaching ends of a third chain and a fourth chain to
a different or same anchor. The method can also include attaching
the other ends of those chains together near a common point so that
the chains contact the stone.
[0011] In a further set of embodiments, a method of making jewelry
can include wrapping a netting substantially around a perimeter of
a stone. The method can also include attaching opposite ends of the
netting together to form a setting for the stone.
[0012] The foregoing general description and the following detailed
description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not
restrictive of the invention, as defined in the appended
claims.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0013] The present invention is illustrated by way of example and
not limitation in the accompanying figures.
[0014] FIG. 1 includes an illustration of a netting that can be
used as part of a setting for a stone.
[0015] FIG. 2 includes an illustration of fabricating a portion of
the netting of FIG. 1.
[0016] FIGS. 3-6 include illustrations for making jewelry including
a stone and the netting of FIG. 1.
[0017] FIG. 7 includes an illustration of a cross-sectional view of
the jewelry at sectioning line 7-7 in FIG. 6.
[0018] FIGS. 8-13 include illustrations of alternative embodiments
using the netting.
[0019] FIGS. 14-15 include illustrations for making a banded
briolette.
[0020] FIGS. 16-23 include illustrations for jewelry in accordance
with a shelling technique.
[0021] FIG. 24 includes an illustration of an alternative
embodiment using a halo.
[0022] FIG. 25 includes illustrations of a front-view and the side
view of an earring comprising stones having shell-type settings
connected by netting.
[0023] Skilled artisans appreciate that elements in the figures are
illustrated for simplicity and clarity and have not necessarily
been drawn to scale. For example, the dimensions of some of the
elements in the figures may be exaggerated relative to other
elements to help to improve understanding of embodiments of the
present invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0024] Jewelry can comprise a stone and a setting. The setting can
include rings, wherein at least one of the rings contacts the
stone. The rings may be in the form of chains, netting, or both.
The rings can be attached to the stone using anchor(s), so that the
setting cannot be removed from stone unless the stone, a ring, an
anchor or combination thereof is broken or, in the case of hooks,
removed only with great difficulty or irreversibly damaging the
hooks (e.g., when separating ring and hook combinations). The
configurations for the settings and stones and methods described
herein can substantially increase the options for designing
jewelry, and particularly the use and arrangement of stones in
jewelry.
[0025] In some embodiments, jewelry can be made where part of the
setting for a stone can include a chain or netting. Many different
types of chain or netting configurations are possible. Some of
those chain or netting configurations includes shelling, netting,
and banding. Other configurations are possible, and therefore, the
configurations described herein are to be construed as exemplary
and not limiting to the present invention.
[0026] Many options are available with methods of making the
jewelry. In one embodiment the method may include attaching an end
of a chain or netting to an anchor, placing the chain or netting
along a surface of a stone, and attaching another end of the chain
or netting to the same or different anchor. In one specific
embodiment, chains may be used and have ends attached near a common
point. In another specific embodiment, netting may be wrapped
substantially around the perimeter of a stone, and opposite ends of
the netting may be attached together.
[0027] With all of the possible options, jewelry designers are not
constrained by the limitations of the fixed settings described in
the related art section. After reading this specification, skilled
artisans will appreciate that the design of jewelry, particularly
with stones, may only be limited by the designer's imagination.
[0028] A few terms are defined or clarified to aid in understanding
the descriptions that follow. The term "attached" and its variants,
with respect to chains and netting, means that a chain or netting
cannot be removed from a stone unless at least one of the stone,
ring(s), loop(s), hook(s), chain(s), or netting(s) is broken or
only with great difficulty or irreversibly damaging the hooks
(e.g., when separating ring and hook combinations).
[0029] The term "chain" is intended to mean a set of links or rings
that can be oriented to extend in substantially one direction.
Effectively, a chain is a single row of links or rings.
[0030] When referring to rings, the term "directly attached" and
its variants are intended to mean ring(s), loop(s), hook(s),
chain(s), or netting(s) are attached to one another using a single
ring, and the term "indirectly attached" and its variants are
intended to mean ring(s), loop(s), hook(s), chain(s), or netting(s)
are attached to one another using a more than a single ring. For
example, a first chain has a link lying within a first ring, a
second chain has a link lying within a second ring, and the first
and second rings, but not the first and second chains, lie within a
third ring. The first chain is directly attached to the first ring
but is indirectly attached to the second chain and the second and
third rings. The second chain is directly attached to the second
ring but is indirectly attached to the first chain and the first
and third rings.
[0031] The term "link" is intended to mean substantially identical
repeating rings along a length of a chain.
[0032] The term "netting" is intended to mean a set of rings (which
may or may not include links) or a mesh that extends in at least
two directions. A pair of chains can be connected together by rings
to form netting. Netting may or may not include stones incorporated
within the set of rings. Netting and mesh can be used
interchangeably.
[0033] The term "observer side" is intended to mean the side of
jewelry that is seen typically by the public when the jewelry is
worn. Jewelry may have more than one observer side.
[0034] The term "ring" is intended to mean a unit within a chain or
netting. Rings can be opened or closed and may have a variety of
shapes including circles, ovals, oblong or elongated pieces,
polygons, and the like. A jump ring is a type of ring that is an
element used to connect chain(s) netting(s), loop(s), other
ring(s), etc. to one another. For example, link(s) of chain,
netting(s), loop(s), other rings, or the like may be placed within
an open jump ring before it is closed. Chains or netting may
include no jump rings, consist only of jump rings, or some jump
rings (i.e., not solely jump rings).
[0035] The term "setting" is intended to mean a structure that
comprises one or more parts that allow a stone to be attached to
another part of a piece of jewelry.
[0036] As used herein, the terms "comprises," "comprising,"
"includes," "including," "has," "having" and any variations
thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For
example, a method, process, article, or apparatus that comprises a
list of elements is not necessarily limited to only those elements
but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to
such method, process, article, or apparatus. Further, unless
expressly stated to the contrary, "or" refers to an inclusive or
and not to an exclusive or. For example, a condition A or B is
satisfied by any one of the following: A is true (or present) and B
is false (or not present), A is false (or not present) and B is
true (or present), and both A and B are true (or present).
[0037] Also, use of the "a" or "an" are employed to describe
elements and components of the invention. This is done merely for
convenience and to give a general sense of the invention. This
description should be read to include one or at least one and the
singular also includes the plural unless it is clear that it is
meant otherwise.
[0038] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms
used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of
ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. All
publications, patent applications, patents, and other references
mentioned herein are incorporated by reference in their entirety.
In case of conflict, the present specification, including
definitions, will control. In addition, the methods, jewelry, and
examples are illustrative only and not intended to be limiting.
[0039] To the extent not described herein, many details regarding
specific portions of the jewelry and processes for making it are
conventional and may be found in textbooks and other sources within
the jewelry arts.
[0040] Reference is now made in detail to the exemplary embodiments
of the invention, examples of which are illustrated in the
accompanying drawings. Wherever possible, the same reference
numbers will be used throughout the drawings to refer to the same
or like parts (elements).
[0041] Starting materials are addressed before proceeding to
specific designs for the jewelry and methods of making them. Stones
used for the jewelry can be nearly any material. Non-limiting
examples can include birthstones and gemstones (diamonds, rubies,
emeralds, sapphires, etc.), man-made or processed materials
(zirconia, glass (clear or colored), alumina, plastics, etc.),
pearls, ivory, rocks (opals, turquoise, Petoskey stones, etc.), and
the like. The stones may be transparent, translucent, opaque, or
any combination thereof. Although not required, the stones are
typically harder than the materials attached to them, including
pins, wires, caps, halos, loops, rings, chains, or netting.
[0042] The pin(s), wire(s), cap(s), halo(s), loop(s), ring(s),
chain(s), netting(s) or any combination thereof may include one or
more materials. Some non-limiting examples of the materials can
include gold (yellow or white), silver, platinum, copper, plastic,
zinc, nickel, tin, iron, alloys (e.g., brass, bronze, stainless
steel, etc.), and the like. Although not limiting, malleable metals
(including alloys) can be used and may include precious metals,
such as gold (yellow or white), silver, or platinum. Chains may be
available in a number of conventional styles, such as cable chain,
curb chain, and the like.
[0043] Adhesive compounds, such as jewelry glue, are conventional.
All soldering may be performed using any one of a number of
conventional techniques and can include electronic or laser
soldering.
[0044] As previously mentioned, there is nearly a limitless number
of combinations of shapes, sizes, and materials for the stones,
pins, wires, loops, caps, halos, rings, chains, and nettings. The
combinations can allow for jewelry designs, and particularly
settings for stones, that have previously not been possible. Below
are detailed descriptions for netting, banding, and shelling
techniques and designs. Clearly other designs are possible, and
therefore, the descriptions below are not to be construed
narrowly.
[0045] Netting can include a set of rings that are fabricated to
conform to or mimic the shape of the stone. Some of the rings may
be in the form of chains (series of rings). In one embodiment, the
netting can be created to fit to the stone before the netting is
attached to the stone. The netting will vary depending on the shape
of the stone and the desired appearance of the netting. All jump
rings may be used or a combination of jump rings and chains may be
used.
[0046] FIG. 1 includes an illustration of one non-limiting example
of netting 10. A specific fabrication method for the netting is
given before addressing other embodiments. The netting in FIG. 1
includes two triangular ends 12 and 14 and a main section 16. The
triangular ends 12 and 14 and the main section 16 may include
chains 162 and jump rings 122.
[0047] One or both of the triangular ends 12 and 14 may be
fabricated before the main section 16. During fabrication, closed
jump rings may be placed into an open jump ring. After placement,
the open jump ring is closed. As used hereinafter, closing a open
jump ring may be performed by: (1) placing the ends of the open
jump ring close to each other so that rings within that jump ring
cannot be removed without moving the ends of such jump ring apart
from each other or (2) soldering the ends of the open jump ring
together. After reading this specification, skilled artisans can
determine which type of closing procedure to use based on their
specific applications. The fabrication procedure for the triangular
ends 12 and 14 is repeated until the triangular shape
completed.
[0048] The main section 16 has a shape that similar to a hammock.
The lengths of the inner rows 164 are longer than the lengths of
the outer rows 166. Chains 162 have ends connected at jump rings
122 along the inner rows 164. Other than the chains 162, the rest
of the main section 16 comprises jump rings.
[0049] The fabrication can start with the chains 162 and inner rows
164, and then proceed to the outer rows 166. Two jump rings 22
(which are substantially similar to jump rings 122) may be attached
to the two jump rings 122 of the triangular end 12 as shown in FIG.
2. The jump ring 22, a closed jump ring 24, and a link 26 of chain
162 are inserted into open jump ring 28. The open jump ring 28 is
then closed. The process is continued for the other inner row 164.
Note that the entire length one of the inner rows 164 may be
fabricated before the other, both inner rows 164 may be fabricated
so that the lengths of both rows 164 are kept substantially the
same, or any combination thereof. Two jump rings 122 may be used to
connect the inner rows 164 of main section 16 to the other
triangular end 14.
[0050] Referring to FIG. 1, the two outer rows 166 of jump rings
122 can be formed in a similar manner to the two inner rows 164.
Closed jump rings can be placed into open jump rings and the rings
are closed. Note that the inner rows 166 will lie closer to the
perimeter of the stone, and the outer rows 164 will lie closer to
the center of the stone. Therefore, each of the lengths of the
outer rows 166 is shorter than each of the lengths of the inner
rows 164. In one embodiment, the fabrication of the inner rows 164
is completed before the fabrication of the outer rows 166. The
entire inner rows 164 may be fabricated before the outer rows 166
or the inner rows 164 may be fabricated so that they do not fall
behind the fabrication of the corresponding portions of the outer
rows 166. Although not required, two jump rings 122 lie along the
outer rows 166 and outer perimeter of the triangular ends 12 and 14
to improve the integrity of the netting 10. In another embodiment,
the two jump rings 122 along the outer rows 166 may be replaced by
a double chain. In still another embodiment, only a single set of
jump rings or single chains (e.g., not double chains) may lie along
the outer rows 166. Any one or more of the inner rows 164 may have
single, double, etc. sets of rings or chains along its (their)
length.
[0051] At corners 18, a jump ring 122 along the outer row 164 is
connected to two jump rings 122 along the inner row 166. Depending
on the shape of the stone, more than two jump rings 122 along the
outer row 166 may be connected to a jump ring 122 along the inner
row 164. Note that all the jump rings 122 that are only connected
to other jump rings 122 along the outer row 166 may be the same
size. FIG. 1 helps to illustrate the connections between the inner
and outer rows 164 and 166, and therefore, is not drawn to
scale.
[0052] Many different variations may be possible for forming the
netting. The exact order of connecting items is typically not
critical. Different size jump rings may be used in the different
sections or different rows. Also within each of the sections or
rows, different sized jump rings can be used. Further, chains may
lie long the length of any one or more of the inner and outer rows
164 and 166. The triangular ends 12 and 14 are not required and one
or both may be replaced by a wire or other shaped piece (e.g.,
partially spherical end for the netting 10 instead of the
triangular ends 12 and 14) that is inserted through the rings at
the end of the main section 16 and a loop (not shown). Different
combinations of materials for the jump rings and chains also allow
more options to a designer. To list all of the variations would be
nearly impossible. After reading this specification, skilled
artisans will be able to design and fabricate netting to meet their
needs or desires.
[0053] In FIG. 3, the stone 32 can be prepared for the netting 10.
In one embodiment, a hole 34 may be drilled completely through the
stone 32. In order to reduce the appearance of the hole 34, it may
be drilled near one of the ends of the stone 32 as illustrated in
FIG. 3.
[0054] A wire 42 may be passed through the hole 34 with loops 44
formed from portions of the wire 42 as illustrated in FIG. 4. The
ends of the wire 42 may be wrapped around portions of the wire 42
between the loops 44 and the stone 32. Remaining portions of the
wire 42 may be cut. Alternatively, the loops 44 may be soldered
into position with the ends of the wire 42 cut before or after the
soldered is performed. In one embodiment, one of the loops 44 may
be formed before the wire 42 is inserted through the hole, and the
other loop 44 may then be formed. Regardless of the order of
formation of the loops 44, the loops 44 and wire 42 form anchors
for the netting 10. The loops 44 are substantially stable and able
to withstand stress that may occur during the fabrication process
(so that the netting fits snugly against the stone 32, if desired)
and during normal use of the jewelry.
[0055] In FIG. 5, one of the loops 44 and a ring at triangular end
12 of netting 10 are inserted into an open jump ring, and the open
jump ring is closed to form closed ring 52. The netting 10 is then
placed, or more specifically in this embodiment, wrapped around the
stone 32 as illustrated by the arrow in FIG. 5. The netting 10
should contact and be snug around the stone 32. In FIG. 6, an open
jump ring at triangular end 14 of netting 10 is inserted into the
other loop 44, and the open jump ring is closed to form ring 62 to
form a substantially completed piece. FIG. 7 illustrates a
cross-sectional view of the netting 10 including the location of
jump rings 122 along the inner and outer rows 164 and 166 and one
of the chains 162. Note that the stone 32 lies within a cradle 72
of the netting 10.
[0056] The wire 42, loops 44, and the netting 10 form a setting for
the stone 32. Stone 32 cannot be removed from the setting without
breaking the stone 32, loops 44 or wire 42, or netting 10. The
chains 162 and jump rings 122 within the netting 10 may have
limited fluid motion and do not have a hard, unyielding appearance
of a stone if it were wrapped using solid core wire. The loops 44
and rings within the netting 10 allow for a wide variety of points
from which to attach the piece to other portions of jewelry,
including necklaces, bracelets, other netting, and the like.
[0057] In alternative embodiments, the wire-loops combination in
FIGS. 5 and 6 is not used to secure the netting 10 to the stone 32.
In the embodiment illustrated in FIG. 8, a hole 82 may be drilled
partially through the stone 32. A wire 84 may be inserted in the
hole 82 and secured in place using an adhesive compound, such as
jewelry glue. The end of the wire 84 outside the stone 32 may be
twisted to form a loop 86. Jump rings 88 can be used to secure the
netting 10 to the loop 86. The wire 84, including loop 86, is an
example of a single anchor used in the setting.
[0058] In the embodiments illustrated in FIGS. 9 and 10, a cap 92
and 102, such as pieces of crimped metal, can replace the wire-loop
combinations. The caps 92 and 102 may or may not have pins (not
shown) extending from the apex 94 and 104, respectively, down
toward the stone 32. If the pin is present, a hole (not shown) may
be drilled into the stone 32 to hold the pin. An adhesive compound
may or may not be used to secure the cap 92 or 102 to the stone 32.
In FIG. 9, attaching loops 96 for the netting 10 are space away
from the apex 94, and in FIG. 10, attaching loop 106 lies at or
near apex 104. Loop 98 or 106 may be used to attach the piece to
other portions of the jewelry.
[0059] In still another embodiment, multiple wire-loop combinations
can be used. FIG. 11 includes an illustration of a perspective view
of a portion of a stone 112. Holes 114 can be drilled into the
stone 112. Pins 116 are inserted into the holes 114. Each of the
pins 116 can be substantially identical to the wire 84-loop 86
combination as illustrated in FIG. 8. The pins 116 may be held in
place by an adhesive compound (not shown). Alternatively, a
tap-and-dye set can be used for forming threads (not shown) along
the shafts the pins 116 and within the holes 114. The pins 116 can
be secured to the stone by screwing them into the holes 114. After
the pins 116 are in place, netting (not shown) can be place over
them. A pin 116 and ring(s) within the netting are placed into an
open jump ring, which is subsequently closed to attach the pin 116
to the netting. The procedure may be repeated for other pins 116
and rings of the netting. In this embodiment, the pins 116 act as
multiple anchors for the netting. When multiple pins 116 are used,
all or just some of the pins 116 may be attached to netting.
[0060] In yet another embodiment, the pins 116 may be replaced by
hooks, such as j-hooks (cane-shaped pieces) 121 as shown in FIG.
12. The j-hooks can act as multiple anchors and be attached to the
stone 112 using any of the methods used for the pins 116. After the
j-hooks 121 are in place, the netting (not shown) can be placed
over the j-hooks 121. The netting can be worked into place so that
at least some of the j-hooks 121 and rings are engaged in a manner
similar to Velcro.TM.. Similar to the pins 116, not all of the
j-hooks 121 need to be used (attached with one or more rings). The
attachment of the netting may be completed at this point, or the
j-hooks 121 can be bent laterally (e.g., twisted) or bent further
(to close or nearly close the j-hook 121 to form a loop) to secure
better the netting. In other embodiments, other shapes of hooks are
possible. For example, the hooks may be in the shape of a "Y"
(similar to an anchor) or a grappling hook.
[0061] Note that soldering between the hooks and netting is not
required. The use of hooks may require precise placement of the
netting because having to rework the netting after attachment may
be difficult, if not impossible. However, use of commercially
available precision placement equipment may allow the placement of
the netting to substantially reduce the likelihood of needing to
rework netting placement. The use of the hooks may be well suited
for jewelry fabrication by machines because the machines can have
the repeatable precise capability, and soldering (a fabricating
step) may be eliminated.
[0062] In another embodiment, no pins, hooks, holes in the stone,
or adhesive compounds may be used. More particularly, the rings may
be attached to the stone without the use of an adhesive compound or
a pin or wire extending at least partially into the stone. FIG. 13
includes an illustration where netting 130 surrounds substantially
all of the perimeter of the stone 132. The netting 130 can be
similar to the main section 16 of netting 10 but does not have the
triangular ends 12 and 14. The main section is continued until the
netting 130 can cover the perimeter of the stone 132.
[0063] Regarding fabrication of the netting 130, the inner row(s)
of the netting 130 are formed at the same time or before
corresponding portions of outer rows of the nettings. After the
netting has been fabricated to conform to the shape of the stone,
the netting 130 is wrapped so that the netting substantially
surrounds the perimeter of the stone 132. Opposite end of the
netting 130 are attached together to form a setting for the stone
132. The ends may be attached together using ring(s), a wire, a
combination of rings and wire, or the like. From a cross-sectional
view, the stone 132 lies within a cradle (not shown) of the netting
130. In FIG. 13, the opposite ends of the netting are connected
together using jump rings.
[0064] In still a further embodiment, the netting may include
plastic. The plastic netting may be pre-fabricated or may be shaped
to the piece similar to the chains and jump rings. In still another
embodiment, the plastic netting may be attached and heated to
increase the tension in the netting (similar to shrink wrap). The
plastic netting may be set of rings or a single piece of plastic
mesh.
[0065] Note that in many of the embodiments, jump rings used to
attach the ends of the netting to itself or to loops or pins may be
replaced by wire. Also, one or more wires, chains, set of jump
rings, or the like may be attached to the netting and extend across
some of the exposed face (not covered by the perimeter netting) of
the stone. In one embodiment, the additional wires, chains, or sets
of jump rings may be used as part of the setting, as ornamentation
(e.g., lie along the observer side of the stone), or a combination
thereof.
[0066] The orientation of the netting can be changed so that the
netting appears to be a sash around the stone. The sash appearance
can be achieved by orienting the length of the netting to extend
between the front (i.e., observer side) to the back of the stone
rather than along the perimeter of the observer side.
[0067] In many embodiments, the setting for the stone can comprise
netting that surrounds at least half of the perimeter of the stone.
This helps to keep the stone from popping out of the netting. In
the embodiment of FIG. 6, the netting 10 surrounds 2/3 to 5/6 of
the perimeter of the stone 32. In the embodiment of FIG. 13, the
netting 130 surrounds substantially all of the perimeter of the
stone 132. After reading this specification, skilled artisans
appreciate that the netting may surround less than half of the
perimeter of the stone.
[0068] Banding is similar to netting, but is typically easier to
perform compared to netting. With banding, chain(s) can be used to
highlight the stone. Unlike the netting embodiments above, where
the relative positions of the netting and stone are set more firmly
(but still allow some fluid motion), the banding can allow more
movement of the chain(s) relative to the stone. In one embodiment,
the stone 32 and hole 34 in FIG. 3 may be used as a starting point.
A chain 142, as illustrated in FIG. 14, can be fabricated (as a row
of jump rings or links) or cut (if the chain is already made) so
that its length extends from near the hole 34 on one side of the
stone 32, around the perimeter of the stone 32 to the hole 34 on
the other side of the stone. A ring at or near one end of the chain
is placed onto a wire 144, and the wire 144 can be twisted to form
a loop 146. The other portion of the wire 144 is fed through the
hole 34. A ring at or near the other end of the chain 142 is placed
onto the wire 144. This other end of the wire 144 can be twisted to
form another loop 146. Extra lengths of the wire 144 may be cut. At
this point, a banded stone has been formed.
[0069] Optionally, further processing can be performed on the
banded stone as illustrated in FIG. 15. A closed ring 152 and one
of the loops 146 may be placed into an opened jump ring that is
then closed to form closed ring 154. The same procedure is repeated
for the other loop 146 and other closed ring 154.
[0070] Again, many options exist for different shapes, sizes, and
materials and combinations thereof. Many of the alternatives used
for securing the netting as described in FIGS. 8-12 may also be
used for banding.
[0071] Shelling can include a setting where chains, at one end, are
attached together or near a common point, and at least some, if not
all, of the chains diverge from that common point. Between the two
ends of any one of the chains, that chain may or may not be
connected to other chains or other parts of the jewelry.
[0072] In one embodiment of shelling, the stone 32 as illustrated
in FIG. 4 may provide a starting point in the process. First end(s)
of one or more chains 161 may be placed on an open ring 163 as
shown in FIG. 16. A closed ring 165 may be placed on the open ring
163, and the open ring 163 closed to form ring 173 as illustrated
in FIG. 17. This pattern of chains 161 and rings 165 and 173 may be
repeated any number of times.
[0073] One of the closed rings 165 and one of the loops 44 can be
placed in another open ring 182 as illustrated in FIG. 18. That
other open ring 182 can be soldered closed to form closed ring 192
in FIG. 19. More or fewer rings and ring-chain sets may be used
compared to what is shown in FIG. 19.
[0074] In another embodiment, the closed ring 165 may be replaced
by link(s) of chain(s). In still another embodiment (not shown),
closed ring 165 may be omitted and one of the loops 44 substituted
in its place. In this manner, the shelling can be attached to the
stone 32 as it is fabricated.
[0075] The procedure for the other loop 44 (not shown in FIGS.
16-19) along the opposite side of the stone 32 is substantially
identical. Note that intermediate rings (e.g., closed rings 173)
between ring-chain sets may be omitted or additional intermediate
rings may be used between each pair of ring-chain sets. To list all
of the alternatives would be nearly impossible.
[0076] Referring to FIG. 20, an open jump ring 202 may be used to
connect the other ends (e.g., second ends) of chains 161 lying
along one side of the stone 32. The open jump ring can be closed to
form closed ring 212 in FIG. 21. The same procedure may be repeated
for the other side of the stone 32, so that another closed ring 212
(not shown in FIG. 21) connects the other ends of chains lying
along the other side of the stone 32.
[0077] In one embodiment, the positions of the two rings 212 on
each side of the stone 32 cannot touch each other. Those two rings
212 are pulled snug and placed into a jump ring 222 in FIG. 22. The
jump ring 222 is then closed to form a closed ring 232 as
illustrated in FIG. 23. Note that the wire 42, including loops 44,
acts as an anchor to allow pressure to be applied so that the
chains 161 can be snuggly fitted to the stone 32 during the
attaching process using jump ring 222. In another embodiment, the
two rings 212 may touch each other.
[0078] At the point in the process, in one embodiment, a
substantially finished piece of jewelry has been formed. In the
finished piece, chains 161 are interconnected by rings to form the
shelling for the stone 32. The chains 161 have limited movement,
but are more fluid (in movement) compared to wrapping the stone
with a single piece of wire. The shelling is part of the setting,
and the stone 32 cannot be removed from the shelling unless any one
or more of the stone, rings, loops, or chains are broken.
[0079] In another embodiment (not shown), pairs of chains do not
need to be connected to the same ring for shelling. The chain
pattern can alternate with the rings. More specifically, a ring
closest to one of the loops 44 may have all chains within that ring
lying along one side of the stone 32. The next ring having chain(s)
may have its chain(s) lying along the opposite side of the stone
32. In this manner, the chains can be alternating
front-back-front-back for a series of rings attached to that same
loop 44.
[0080] A number of options available for the netting 10 may be used
for shelling. Similar to netting 10, shelling can be asymmetric
with respect to the stone 32. The orientation of the shelling may
be changed. The shelling may be rotated laterally (loops 44 lying
along front and back of stone 32 instead of the sides) or
vertically (common point lying at the side or top of the stone 32
instead of the bottom as shown in FIG. 22. Other positioning is
possible.
[0081] In another shelling embodiment, a "halo" may replace the
wire 42 and loops 44. The halo has an annular opening through which
a portion of the stone may be placed completely through. The halo
forms an anchor that does not require a cap, an adhesive compound,
or a hole to be drilled into a stone. Referring to FIG. 24, the
halo 242 may be a chain in the form of links or jump rings.
Alternatively, the halo 242 may include solid ring (not shown) with
or without loops. The solid ring may include notches or other
features to help to keep the chains or jump rings from moving too
much. In the embodiment illustrated in FIG. 24, chains 161 may be
attached to the halo 242. The other ends of the chains may be
attached using ring 244 (e.g., ends of chains inserted into an open
ring before it is closed). Halos may also be used with netting and
banding.
[0082] In an alternative embodiment, an adhesive compound can be
used to achieve jewelry having chains, netting, or a combination of
both as part of the setting. The adhesive compound may be applied
to the stone, chains, netting or any combination thereof. The
chains, netting, or combination are placed onto the stone and can
be held in place until the adhesive compound has set or been cured.
Many different adhesive compounds may be used and the actual
compound used is not critical. Jeweler's glue is commonly used in
jewelry. Radiation-activated (e.g., ultraviolet radiation curable)
adhesive compounds may also be used. Generally, the adhesive should
have good bonding strength and be transparent, although these
characteristics are not required. After reading this specification,
skilled artisans will be capable of selecting adhesive compound(s)
to meet their desires. Holes in the stone and pins or wires are not
required. Just like the other embodiments described herein, the
chains, netting, or combination thereof can be the setting for the
stone and allow a greater number of attachment points to other
parts of the jewelry compared to conventional settings for
stones.
[0083] Other combinations of rings and chains can be made to form
other elements for jewelry. Netting, banding, and shelling are
merely examples and not meant to limit the present invention.
[0084] Regardless whether the finished piece includes one or more
of the netting, banding, or shelling, the finished piece may be
incorporated with other articles to form jewelry, such as a
necklace, earring, bracelet, brooch, etc. Any of the netting,
banding, and shelling can be used in tying stones together. Jump
rings between chains or other jump rings on different stones or
between loops of different stones can be used. A plurality of the
finished pieces, whether the same or different types, can be part
of the jewelry.
[0085] FIG. 25 includes illustrations of front and side views of an
earring 250, which is an example of jewelry. The earring 250
includes two stones 251 and 253 with shelling 252 and 254 and
netting 256 in between. The netting 256 may include jump rings,
chains, or combinations thereof. The upper stone 253 with shelling
254 is attached to the hook 260 using a ring at location 262 and to
the netting 256 at locations 264. The lower stone 251 with shelling
252 is attached to the netting 256 at locations 266. The
attachments at locations 264 and 266 may be achieved using jump
rings. Again, the earring 250 is merely an example and shows some
of the flexibility for designing jewelry.
[0086] The use of chains and rings as at least parts of settings
for stones allows much more flexibility in designing jewelry. A
significantly larger number of attaching points to other parts of
the jewelry is possible. New arrangements and orientations may now
be realized. The variety of shapes, sizes, and materials allow a
nearly infinite number of combinations to be made.
[0087] The settings described herein may be more appealing and
appear more "fluid" and less "industrial" compared to conventional
crimped metal settings. The settings described herein allow more
symmetric settings (both from a visual and mass (i.e., center of
gravity) perspective) to be made because a relatively dense piece
of metal is not required to lie on one side of the stone. The
symmetry can allow the stone-setting combination to hang more
vertically in free space because the center of gravity is not
shifted due to the crimped metal.
[0088] The jewelry and process for making it does not require new
materials or fabrication equipment. Therefore, the risks associated
with new materials and equipment is avoided.
[0089] In the foregoing specification, the invention has been
described with reference to specific embodiments. However, one of
ordinary skill in the art appreciates that various modifications
and changes can be made without departing from the scope of the
present invention as set forth in the claims below. Accordingly,
the specification and figures are to be regarded in an illustrative
rather than a restrictive sense, and all such modifications are
intended to be included within the scope of present invention.
[0090] Benefits, other advantages, and solutions to problems have
been described above with regard to specific embodiments. However,
the benefits, advantages, solutions to problems, and any element(s)
that may cause any benefit, advantage, or solution to occur or
become more pronounced are not to be construed as a critical,
required, or essential feature or element of the invention.
* * * * *