U.S. patent application number 10/426630 was filed with the patent office on 2005-02-10 for water-in-oil emulsion foundation.
Invention is credited to Ozee, Emmanuelle, Simonnet, Jean-Thierry, Verloo, Aurore.
Application Number | 20050031560 10/426630 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 30118800 |
Filed Date | 2005-02-10 |
United States Patent
Application |
20050031560 |
Kind Code |
A9 |
Simonnet, Jean-Thierry ; et
al. |
February 10, 2005 |
Water-in-oil emulsion foundation
Abstract
A foundation composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion
comprising a fatty phase; an aqueous phase; at least one silicone
surfacant chosen from C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols;
and at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition, of hydrophobic coated pigments; provided that the
composition is free of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate or comprises
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate in a quantity such that the weight ratio
of the C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol to the
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate is greater than or equal to 2:1, wherein
the foundation composition can exhibit good stability at room
temperature and can be easy to apply to the skin.
Inventors: |
Simonnet, Jean-Thierry;
(Paris, FR) ; Verloo, Aurore; (Bievres, FR)
; Ozee, Emmanuelle; (Thiais, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
Thomas L. Irving
FINNEGAN, HENDERSON, FARABOW,
GARRETT & DUNNER, L.L.P.
1300 I Street, N.W.
Washington
DC
20005-3315
US
|
Prior
Publication: |
|
Document Identifier |
Publication Date |
|
US 0009131 A1 |
January 15, 2004 |
|
|
Family ID: |
30118800 |
Appl. No.: |
10/426630 |
Filed: |
May 1, 2003 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
60393115 |
Jul 3, 2002 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/63 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/894 20130101;
A61K 8/064 20130101; A61K 8/604 20130101; A61K 8/29 20130101; A61Q
1/02 20130101; A61K 8/11 20130101; A61K 2800/412 20130101; A61K
8/39 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/063 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/021 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
May 2, 2002 |
FR |
02 05512 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A foundation composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion
comprising a fatty phase; an aqueous phase; at least one silicone
surfactant chosen from C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone
copolyols; at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition, of hydrophobic coated pigments; provided that the
composition is free of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate or comprises
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate in a quantity such that the weight ratio
of the C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol to the
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate is greater than or equal to 2:1.
2. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols are chosen from
compounds of the following formula (I): 2wherein: PE is chosen from
groups of (--C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.x--(C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.y--R,
wherein R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and alkyl radicals
comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranges from 0 to 100, and y
ranges from 0 to 80, provided that the x and the y are not
simultaneously 0; m ranges from 1 to 40; n ranges from 10 to 200; o
ranges from 1 to 100; p ranges from 7 to 21; and q ranges from 0 to
4.
3. The foundation composition according to claim 2, wherein R=H;
m=1 to 10; n=10 to 100; o=1 to 30; p=15; and q=3.
4. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols are chosen from cetyl
dimethicone copolyols.
5. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the at
least one silicone surfactant chosen from C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl
dimethicone copolyols is present in an amount ranging from 2% to
10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the at
least one silicone surfactant chosen from C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl
dimethicone copolyols is present in an amount ranging from 2.5% to
5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate is present in an amount such that the
weight ratio of the C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol to
the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate is greater than or equal to 3:1.
8. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the
hydrophobic coated pigments are chosen from pigments treated with
at least one hydrophobic agent.
9. The foundation composition according to claim 8, wherein the
pigments are chosen from at least one of metal oxides, manganese
violet, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, ferric blue, bismuth
oxychloride, pearl, mica coated with titanium dioxide, mica coated
with bismuth oxychloride, and coloured pearlescent pigments.
10. The foundation composition according to claim 9, wherein the
pigments are chosen from at least one of iron oxides and titanium
dioxides.
11. The foundation composition according to claim 8, wherein the at
least one hydrophobic agent is chosen from silicones, fatty acids,
metal soaps, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes,
perfluoroalkylsilazanes- , polyhexafluoropropylene oxides,
polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one perfluoroalkyl
perfluoropolyether group, amino acids, N-acylated amino acids and
salts thereof, lecithin, and isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.
12. The foundation composition according to claim 11, wherein the
N-acylated amino acids comprise at least one acyl group comprising
from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
13. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the
hydrophobic coated pigments are present in an amount ranging from
5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
14. The foundation composition according to claim 13, wherein the
hydrophobic coated pigments are present in an amount at least equal
to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
15. The foundation composition according to claim 14, wherein the
hydrophobic coated pigments are present in an amount ranging from
8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
16. The foundation composition according to claim 1, further
comprising at least one oil.
17. The foundation composition according to claim 16, wherein the
at least one oil is chosen from carbonaceous oils,
hydrocarbonaceous oils, and silicone oils.
18. The foundation composition according to claim 16, wherein the
at least one oil is chosen from volatile oils.
19. The foundation composition according to claim 17, wherein the
at least one oil is chosen from silicone oils.
20. The foundation composition according to claim 19, wherein the
silicone oils are chosen from at least one of
polydimethylsiloxanes, phenylated silicone oils, and polysiloxanes
modified with at least one entity chosen from fatty acids, fatty
alcohols, and polyoxyalkylenes.
21. The foundation composition according to claim 19, wherein the
silicone oils are chosen from volatile silicone oils.
22. The foundation composition according to claim 21, wherein the
volatile silicone oils are chosen from at least one of
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan- e, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, and
heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane.
23. The foundation composition according to claim 17, wherein the
at least one oil is chosen from hydrocarbonaceous oils.
24. The foundation composition according to claim 23, wherein the
hydrocarbonaceous oils are chosen from at least one of paraffin
oils, liquid paraffin oils, vison oil, turtle oil, soya bean oil,
perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil,
grapeseed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil,
sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado
oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic
acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; isopropyl myristate,
isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl
adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,
2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyidodecyl
myristate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate,
diisostearyl malate, glycerine triisostearate, diglycerine
triisostearate; myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic
acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid;
cetanol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol,
linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol.
25. The foundation composition according to claim 23, wherein the
hydrocarbonaceous oils are chosen from volatile hydrocarbonaceous
oils.
26. The foundation composition according to claim 25, wherein the
volatile hydrocarbonaceous oils are chosen from at least one of
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 isoparaffins and heptane.
27. The foundation composition according to claim 26, wherein the
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 isoparaffins are chosen from isooctane,
isododecane, isodecane, and isohexadecane.
28. The foundation composition according to claim 16, wherein the
at least one oil is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 45% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
29. The foundation composition according to claim 28, wherein the
at least one oil is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 38% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
30. The foundation composition according to claim 18, wherein the
at least one oil chosen from volatile oils is present in an amount
ranging from 20% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
31. The foundation composition according to claim 30, wherein the
at least one oil chosen from volatile oils is present in an amount
ranging from 25% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
32. The foundation composition according to claim 31, where in the
at least one oil chosen from volatile oils is present in an amount
ranging from 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
33. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the
fatty phase further comprises at least one fatty substance chosen
from waxes, gums, and pasty fatty substances.
34. The foundation composition according to claim 1, further
comprising at least one fatty phase thickening agent.
35. The foundation composition according to claim 34, wherein the
at least one fatty phase thickening agent is chosen from
organomodified clays and hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas.
36. The foundation composition according to claim 34, wherein the
at least one fatty phase thickening agent is present in an amount
ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
37. The foundation composition according to claim 36, wherein the
at least one fatty phase thickening agent is present in an amount
ranging from 0.4% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the compostion.
38. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the
fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 22% to 50% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
39. The foundation composition according to claim 38, wherein the
fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 25% to 45% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
40. The foundation composition according to claim 39, wherein the
fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 40% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
41. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the
aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 75% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
42. The foundation composition according to claim 41, wherein the
aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 35% to 50% to by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
43. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the
aqueous phase comprises at least one solvent chosen from primary
alcohols, glycols, and glycol ethers.
44. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the
aqueous phase comprises at least one stabilizing agent.
45. The foundation composition according to claim 1, further
comprising at least one filler.
46. The foundation composition according to claim 45, wherein the
at least one filler is chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin,
starch, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate,
magnesium hydrocarbonate, microcrystalline cellulose, polyethylene
powders, polyesters, polyamides, polytetrafluoroethylene, and
silicone powders.
47. The foundation composition according to claim 45, wherein the
at least one filler is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to
15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
48. The foundation composition according to claim 47, wherein the
at least one filler is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to
10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
49. The foundation composition according to claim 1, further
comprising at least one additive chosen from gelling agents;
hydrophilic and lipophilic thickening agents; moisturizing agents;
emollients; hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents; anti-free
radical agents; sequestrants; antioxidants; preservatives;
basifying and acidifying agents; perfumes; film-forming agents; and
soluble colorants.
50. The foundation composition according to claim 1, wherein the
composition has a viscosity, measured at 25.degree. C., at a shear
rate of 200 revolutions per minute, ranging from 0.5 to 3.2
Pa.s.
51. The foundation composition according to claim 50, wherein the
composition has a viscosity, measured at 25.degree. C., at a shear
rate of 200 revolutions per minute, ranging from 0.6 to 1.5
Pa.s.
52. A process for non-therapeutic application of make-up to skin
comprising applying to the skin a foundation composition in the
form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: a fatty phase; an
aqueous phase; at least one silicone surfactant chosen from
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols; at least 5% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of
hydrophobic coated pigments, provided that the composition is free
of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate or comprises polyglyceryl-4
isostearate in a quantity such that the weight ratio of the
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol to the polyglyceryl-4
isostearate is greater than or equal to 2:1.
53. A process for making a foundation composition, comprising
including at least one silicone surfactant chosen from
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols in the composition in
the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least 5% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of
hydrophobic coated pigments, provided that the composition is free
of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate or comprises polyglyceryl-4
isostearate in a quantity such that the weight ratio of the
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol to the polyglyceryl-4
isostearate is greater than or equal to 2:1; wherein the
composition has at least one of properties of being stable,
homogeneous, and easily applied to the skin.
54. A process for obtaining a homogeneous application of make-up to
skin, comprising including at least one silicone surfactant chosen
from C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols in the
composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at
least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition, of hydrophobic coated pigments, provided that the
composition is free of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate or comprises
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate in a quantity such that the weight ratio
of the C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol to the
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate is greater than or equal to 2:1; wherein
the composition is homogeneous.
55. A foundation composition in the form of an oil-in-water
emulsion, comprising: at least one silicone surfactant chosen from
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols; at least 5% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of
hydrophobic coated pigments, provided that the composition is free
of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate or comprises polyglyceryl-4
isostearate in a quantity such that the weight ratio of the
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol to the polyglyceryl-4
isostearate is greater than or equal to 2:1; wherein the
composition has at least one of properties of being stable,
homogeneous, and easily applied to the skin.
Description
[0001] This application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional
Application No. 60/393,115, filed Jul. 3, 2002.
[0002] Disclosed herein is a fluid foundation cosmetic composition
in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least one
silicone surfactant and coated pigments. Also disclosed herein is a
method for applying make-up to skin comprising applying the
foundation to the skin.
[0003] The foundation composition disclosed herein is a make-up
composition for the skin of human beings. The compositions
disclosed herein may, for example, be provided in at least one of
the following forms: foundations to be applied to the face or the
neck; a concealer; a tinted cream; and a make-up composition for
the body.
[0004] Foundation compositions are commonly used to give an
aesthetic colour to the skin, for example, to the face, but also
can be used to conceal skin imperfections, such as redness and
spots.
[0005] It is known from the document FR-A-2686510 that fluid
emulsions of water-in-oil foundations comprise, as a surfactant,
ABIL.RTM. WE 09 sold by the company Goldschmidt, which is a mixture
of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and hexyl
laurate in a 40/30/30 weight ratio. However, it has been observed
that the fluid emulsions prepared with this mixture may not be
stable over time: the emulsion, after storing for 4 months at room
temperature (25.degree. C.), can release oil at the surface of the
composition and, therefore, may no longer be homogeneous. Without
prior stirring, the application of such a composition to the skin
may leave a sensation of greasiness which can damage at least one
of the qualities sought for the foundation, for example, ease of
application to the skin, pleasant feel and drying speed. The
resistance of the mattness of the make-up can be impaired, and as a
result, the make-up can rapidly appear glossy. Therefore, the
make-up thus obtained may not be aesthetic.
[0006] The embodiments disclosed herein may, for example, provide a
foundation composition which can have good stability after storing
at room temperature (25.degree. C.) for at least 4 months and which
may make it possible to obtain a homogeneous make-up on the skin,
which may have at least one satisfactory aesthetic quality.
[0007] The inventors have discovered that such a foundation
composition could be obtained using hydrophobic coated pigments and
at least one silicone surfactant chosen from alkyl dimethicone
copolyols and polyglyceryl-4 isostearates in particular quantities
or even after removing the polyglyceryl-4 isostearates from the
composition.
[0008] For example, disclosed herein is a foundation composition in
the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a fatty phase; an
aqueous phase; at least one silcone surfactant chosen from
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols; and at least 5% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of
hydrophobic coated pigments; provided that the composition is free
of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate or comprises polyglyceryl-4
isostearate in a quantity such that the weight ratio of the
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol to the polyglyceryl-4
isostearate is greater than or equal to 2:1.
[0009] Further disclosed herein is a cosmetic method for
non-therapeutic application of make-up to the skin, which comprises
applying to the skin the composition defined above.
[0010] Also disclosed herein is the use of the at least one
silicone surfactant chosen from C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone
copolyols in a foundation composition in the form of a water-in-oil
emulsion comprising at least 5% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition, of hydrophobic coated pigments; provided
that the composition is free of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate or
comprises polyglyceryl-4 isostearate in a quantity such that the
weight ratio of the C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol to
the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate is greater than or equal to 2:1; in
order to obtain a foundation composition which can have at least
one of the following qualities: stability, homogeneity, and easy
application to the skin, and a homogeneous application of make-up
to the skin.
[0011] The foundation compositions disclosed herein may have very
good stability at room temperature (25.degree. C.), for example,
after storage for 4 months, further, for example, after 6 months,
and even further, for example, after 8 months. The foundation
compositions disclosed herein can also have at least one quality of
being easily applied to the skin, with a sensation of unctuousness,
softness and non-greasiness, rapid drying, and spreading
homogeneously on the skin. The make-up obtained may also exhibit
good stability of the mattness over time.
[0012] The C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols present in
the foundation compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be
chosen from at least one of oxypropylenated and oxyethylenated
polymethyl (C.sub.8-C.sub.22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxanes.
[0013] The C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols may, for
example, be chosen from compounds of the following formula (I):
1
[0014] wherein:
[0015] PE is chosen from groups of
(--C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.x--(C.sub.3H.su- b.6O).sub.y--R,
wherein
[0016] R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and alkyl radicals
comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0017] x ranges from 0 to 100, and
[0018] y ranges from 0 to 80, provided that the x and the y are not
simultaneously 0;
[0019] m ranges from 1 to 40;
[0020] n ranges from 10 to 200;
[0021] o ranges from 1 to 100;
[0022] p ranges from 7 to 21; and
[0023] q ranges from 0 to 4;
[0024] and, for example:
[0025] R=H;
[0026] m=1 to 10;
[0027] n=10 to 100;
[0028] o=1 to 30;
[0029] p=15; and
[0030] q=3.
[0031] For example, the C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone
copolyols may be chosen from cetyl dimethicone copolyols such as
the product marketed under the name Abil.RTM. EM 90 by the company
Goldschmidt.
[0032] The C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols may be
present, for example, in the compositions disclosed herein in an
amount ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition, and further, for example, ranging from
2.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0033] The polyglyceryl-4 isostearate may comprise 4 ethylene oxide
units. It may be absent from the compositions disclosed herein or
may be present in an amount such that the weight ratio of the
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol to the polyglyceryl-4
isostearate is, for example, greater than or equal to 2:1 and,
further, for example, greater than or equal to 3:1.
[0034] The hydrophobic coated pigments present in the compositions
disclosed herein are pigments which can be surface-treated with at
least one hydrophobic agent in order to make them compatible with
the fatty phase of the emulsion, for example, for them to have good
wettability with the oils of the fatty phase. Thus, these treated
pigments may be well dispersed in the fatty phase.
[0035] The pigments intended to be coated may be chosen from at
least one of inorganic and organic pigments. The pigments may, for
example, be chosen from at least one of metal oxides such as iron
oxides, for example, those which are yellow, red, brown and black
in colour, titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide,
chromium oxide; manganese violet, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue,
ferric blue, bismuth oxychloride, pearl, mica coated with at least
one of titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride, coloured
pearlescent pigments such as mica-titanium with iron oxides,
mica-titanium with, for example, ferric blue and chromium oxide,
mica-titanium with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type
and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychlorides.
[0036] For example, pigments chosen from iron oxides and titanium
dioxide may be used in the compositions disclosed herein.
[0037] The at least one hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen,
for example, from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, and
perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal
soaps such as aluminium dimyristate and aluminium salt of
hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates;
perfluoroalkylsilanes; perfluoroalkylsilazanes;
polyhexafluoropropylene oxides; polyorganosiloxanes comprising at
least one perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether group; amino acids;
N-acylated amino acids and the salts thereof; lecithin; and
isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.
[0038] The N-acylated amino acids may comprise, for example, at
least one acyl group comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as
2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl
and cocoyl groups. The salts of these compounds may be chosen from
aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium and
potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, chosen from
lysine, glutamic acid and alanine.
[0039] The term "alkyl" as used herein means an alkyl group
comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, comprising from
5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0040] Hydrophobic treated pigments are, for example, described in
Patent Application No. EP-A-1086683.
[0041] The hydrophobic coated pigments may be present in an amount
ranging, for example, from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition, further, for example, in an amount
at least equal to 8% by weight, and even further, for example, in
an amount ranging from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[0042] The fatty phase of the compositions disclosed herein may,
for example, further comprise at least one oil.
[0043] The compositions disclosed herein may, for example, comprise
from 20% to 45% by weight of oil, relative to the total weight of
the composition, and further, for example, from 20% to 42% by
weight of oil, and even further, for example, from 30% to 38% by
weight of oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] The compositions disclosed herein, may comprise at least one
oil chosen from silicone oils, for example, volatile silicone
oils.
[0045] The at least one oil may be chosen, for example, from
carbonaceous and hydrocarbonaceous oils and silicone oils of
mineral, animal, vegetable and synthetic origins.
[0046] For example, the hydrocarbonaceous oils may be chosen from
paraffin oils, liquid paraffin oils, vison oil, turtle oil, soya
bean oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm
oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil,
sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado
oil, jojoba oil, olive oil and cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic
acid, oleic acid, lauric acid and stearic acid; fatty esters, such
as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl
laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl
palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate,
2-octyidodecyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl
succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerine triisostearate,
diglycerine triisostearate; higher fatty acids such as myristic
acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid,
linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and isostearic acid; higher fatty
alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl
alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and
octyldodecanol.
[0047] The silicone oils may, for example, be chosen from at least
one of polysiloxanes modified with at least one entity chosen from
fatty acids, fatty alcohols and polyoxyalkylenes;
polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), which may be optionally phenylated,
such as phenyltrimethicones, and which may be optionally
substituted with at least one group chosen from aliphatic groups,
aromatic groups, and functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and
amine groups.
[0048] For example, it is possible to use at least one oil which is
volatile at room temperature. The expression "volatile oils" means
oils which are capable of evaporating from the skin, at room
temperature in less than one hour. For example, volatile oils can
have a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 25 centistokes at 25.degree.
C. Such a viscosity can readily be determined by one of ordinary
skill in the art using the known techniques.
[0049] The volatile oils may be chosen, for example, from
hydrocarbonaceous oils and silicone oils optionally comprising at
least one group chosen from alkyl and alkoxy groups at the end of a
silicone and/or pendant chain. The volatile oils may, for example,
be chosen from volatile silicone oils.
[0050] The volatile silicone oils, which can be used in the
compositions disclosed herein, may, for example, be chosen from
linear and cyclic silicones comprising from 2 to 7 silicon atoms,
these silicones optionally comprising at least one group chosen
from alkyl and alkoxy groups comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
For example, the volatile silicone oils may be chosen from at least
one of octamethylcyclotetrasilo- xane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexadecamethyl-cyclohexasiloxane,
heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, and heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane.
[0051] The volatile hydrocarbonaceous oils may be chosen, for
example, from at least one of C.sub.8-C.sub.16 isoparaffins such as
isooctane, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and heptane.
[0052] These volatile oils may be present in the compositions
disclosed herein in an amount ranging, for example, from 20% to 45%
by weight, and further, for example, from 25% to 40% by weight, and
even further, for example, from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition.
[0053] The fatty phase may also comprise at least one fatty
substance chosen, for example, from waxes, gums, and pasty fatty
substances, which may be chosen from pasty fatty substances of
vegetable origin, animal origin, mineral origin, synthetic origin,
and silicone-based fatty substances.
[0054] Among the waxes solid at room temperature, which may be
present in the compositions disclosed herein, these waxes may be
chosen, for example, from hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax,
Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fibre
waxes, sugarcane waxes, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes,
microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites,
polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis,
hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and glycerides which are concrete
at 25.degree. C. It may also be possible to use waxes chosen, for
example, from silicone waxes, such as alkyl, alkoxy and esters of
polymethylsiloxane. The waxes may be provided in the form of stable
dispersions of colloidal particles of wax as may be prepared
according to known methods, such as those of "Microemulsions Theory
and Practice", L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977), pages
21-32.
[0055] A wax which is liquid at room temperature, such as jojoba
oil, may also be used in the compositions disclosed herein.
[0056] The waxes may be present in an amount ranging, for example,
from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0057] The pasty fatty compounds may be defined by at least one of
the following physicochemical properties:
[0058] a viscosity ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises),
for example, ranging from 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured at 40.degree. C.
with a CONTRAVES TV rotary viscometer equipped with an MS-r3 or
MS-r4 rotor at a frequency of 60 Hz, and
[0059] a melting point ranging from 25 to 70.degree. C., for
example, ranging from 25 to 55.degree. C.
[0060] The compositions disclosed herein may also comprise at least
one component chosen from alkyl, alkoxy and phenyl dimethicone such
as the product sold under the name "Abil wax 2440" by the company
GOLDSCHMIDT.
[0061] The compositions disclosed herein may also comprise at least
one silicone resin comprising a combination of
(R).sub.3SiO.sub.1/2, (R).sub.2SiO.sub.2/2, RSiO.sub.3/2 and
SiO.sub.4/2 units wherein R is chosen from alkyl radicals
comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0062] The compositions disclosed herein may further comprise at
least one fatty phase thickening agent. The at least one fatty
phase thickening agent may be chosen from:
[0063] organomodified clays which are clays treated with compounds
chosen, for example, from quaternary amines and tertiary amines.
The organomodified clays may, for example, be chosen from
organomodified bentonites such as those sold under the name
"Bentone 34" by the company RHEOX, and organomodified hectorites
such as those sold under the name "Bentone 27", "Bentone 38" by the
company RHEOX; and
[0064] hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas, which are pyrogenic silicas
that are chemically surface-modified by a chemical reaction
generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups. The silanol
groups may be replaced, for example, by at least one hydrophobic
group.
[0065] The at least one hydrophobic group may, for example, be
chosen from:
[0066] trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained, for example, by
treating pyrogenic silicas in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane.
Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to CTFA
(6.sup.th edition, 1995). They are, for example, marketed under the
references "AEROSIL R812.RTM." by the company Degussa, and
"CAB-O-SIL TS-530.RTM." by the company Cabot.
[0067] dimethylsilyloxyl and polydimethylsiloxane groups, which
are, for example, obtained by treating pyrogenic silicas in the
presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas
thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to
CTFA (6.sup.th edition, 1995). They are, for example, marketed
under the references "AEROSIL R972.RTM.", and "AEROSIL R974.RTM."
by the company Degussa, and "CAB-O-SIL TS-610.RTM.", and "CAB-O-SIL
TS-720.RTM." by the company Cabot.
[0068] The pyrogenic silicas may have, for example, an average
particle size, which may be nanometric or micrometric, for example,
ranging from 5 to 200 nm. Such an average particle size can readily
be determined by one of ordinary skill in the art using the known
techniques.
[0069] The at least one fatty phase thickening agent may be present
in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.1% to 5% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition, and further, for
example, from 0.4% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
[0070] The fatty phase, comprising at least one silicone surfactant
chosen from C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols and
optionally polyglyceryl-4 isostearates if present, may be present
in an amount ranging, for example, from 22% to 50% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition, further, for
example, from 25% to 45% by weight, and even further, for example,
from 30% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0071] The aqueous phase comprises water. The water may be chosen
from at least one of floral water such as cornflower water; mineral
water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water and LA ROCHE POSAY water;
and thermal water.
[0072] The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one solvent
other than water. For example, the at least one solvent may be
chosen from primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol;
glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene
glycol, and diethylene glycol; and glycol ethers such as
(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl ethers of mono-, di- and tripropylene
glycols, and mono-, di- and triethylene glycols.
[0073] The aqueous phase may further comprise at least one
stabilizing agent. The at least one stabalizing agent may be
chosen, for example, from sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and
magnesium sulphate.
[0074] The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one entity
chosen from water-soluble and water-dispersible entities compatible
with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming
polymers, thickeners, and surfactants.
[0075] For example, the aqueous phase may be present in the
compositions disclosed herein in an amount ranging from 30% to 75%
by weight, further, for example, from 35% to 50% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0076] The compositions disclosed herein may further comprise at
least one filler. The expression "filler" means colourless or
white, inorganic or synthetic, lamellar or nonlamellar
particles.
[0077] The at least one filler may be present in the compositions
disclosed herein in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.1% to
15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
further, for example, from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition. The at least one filler may be
chosen, for example, from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, starch, boron
nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium
hydrocarbonate, microcrystalline cellulose, powders of synthetic
polymers such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides such as those
sold under the tradename "Nylon", and polytetrafluoroethylene
("Teflon") and silicone powders.
[0078] For example, the compositions disclosed herein may be fluid
(flows under its own weight at room temperature) and may have a
viscosity, measured at 25.degree. C., at a shear rate of 200
min.sup.-1 (200 revolutions per minute, that is a frequency of 50
Hz), ranging, for example, from 0.5 to 3.2 Pa.s (5 to 32 poises),
and further, for example, ranging from 0.6 to 1.5 Pa.s (6 to 15
poises). Such a viscosity may allow easy application of the
composition, and may make it possible to obtain a make-up which is
homogeneous, uniform and without traces. The viscosity is measured
at 25.degree. C. with a TV type CONTRAVES viscometer equipped with
a No. 3 rotor, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes
of rotation of the rotor (time after which stabilization of the
viscosity and of the speed of rotation of the rotor is observed),
at a shear rate of 200 min.sup.-1 (200 revolutions per minute).
[0079] The compositions disclosed herein may comprise, for example,
at least one adjuvant chosen from customary adjuvants used in the
cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic and
lipophilic gelling and thickening agents; moisturizing agents;
emollients; hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents; anti-free
radical agents; sequestrants; antioxidants; preservatives;
basifying and acidifying agents; perfumes; film-forming agents; and
soluble colorants. The quantity of the at least one adjuvant is
that conventionally used in the fields considered.
[0080] Active agents, which can be used in the compositions
disclosed herein, may be chosen, for example, from at least one of
moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates and polyols such
as glycerine, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar
derivatives; natural extracts; anti-inflammatory agents;
procyannidolic oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol),
vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5
(panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives thereof, for
example, esters; urea, caffeine, salicylic acid and its
derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic
acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids such as carotenoids and
derivatives of vitamin A; sunscreens; hydrocortisone; melatonin;
extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes;
steroids; anti-bacterial active agents such as
2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan),
3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids
indicated above, for example, salicylic acid and its derivatives;
and tightening agents.
[0081] The sunscreens (or UV-screening agents) may be chosen from
at least one of organic (or chemical) screening agents and physical
screening agents.
[0082] The organic (or chemical) sunscreens, which may be used in
the compositions disclosed herein may be chosen, for example, from
any UVA- and UVB-screening agents which may be used in the cosmetic
field.
[0083] The UVB-screening agents may, for example, be chosen from at
least one of:
[0084] (1) salicylic acid derivatives, for example, homomenthyl
salicylate and octyl salicylate;
[0085] (2) cinnamic acid derivatives, for example, 2-ethylhexyl
p-methoxycinnamate, marketed by the company Givaudan under the name
Parsol MCX;
[0086] (3) liquid .beta.,.beta.'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, for
example, 2-ethylhexyl
.alpha.-cyano-.alpha.,.beta.'-diphenylacrylate and octocrylene,
marketed by the company BASF under the name UVINUL N539;
[0087] (4) p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives;
[0088] (5) 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor marketed by the company Merck
under the name EUSOLEX 6300;
[0089] (6) 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid marketed under
the name EUSOLEX 232 by the company Merck; and
[0090] (7)1,3,5-triazine derivatives, for example:
[0091]
2,4,6-tris[p-(2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine
marketed by the company BASF under the name UVINUL T150, and
[0092] dioctylbutamidotriazone marketed by the company Sigma 3V
under the name UVASORB HEB.
[0093] The UVA-screening agents may be chosen, for example, from at
least one of:
[0094] (1) dibenzoylmethane derivatives, for example,
4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane marketed by the company
Givaudan under the name PARSOL 1789;
[0095] (2) 1,4-benzene[di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulphonic)] acid
optionally in partially and completely neutralized form, marketed
under the name MEXORYL SX by the company Chimex;
[0096] (3) benzophenone derivatives, for example:
[0097] 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1);
[0098] 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-2);
[0099] 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (benzophenone-3), marketed
under the name UVINUL M40 by the company BASF;
[0100] 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid
(benzophenone-4) and its sulphonate form (benzophenone-5), marketed
by the company BASF under the name UVINUL MS40;
[0101] 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone
(benzophenone-6);
[0102] 5-chloro-2-hydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-7);
[0103] 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (benzophenone-8);
[0104] the disodium salt of
2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5,5'- -disulphonic diacid
(benzophenone-9);
[0105] 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone
(benzophenone-10);
[0106] benzophenone-11;
[0107] 2-hydroxy-4-(octyloxy)benzophenone (benzophenone-12);
[0108] (4) silane derivatives and polyorganosiloxanes comprising at
least one benzophenone group;
[0109] (5) anthranilates, for example, menthyl anthranilate
marketed by the company Haarman & Reimer under the name NEO
HELIOPAN MA;
[0110] (6) compounds comprising, per molecule, at least two
benzoazolyl groups or at least one benzodiazolyl group, for
example, 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulphonic
acid, and its salts, marketed by the company Haarman &
Reimer;
[0111] (7) silicon-containing derivatives of N-substituted
benzimidazolyl-benzazoles and of benzofuranyl-benzazoles, for
example:
[0112]
2-[1-[3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxanyl]pro-
pyl]-1H-benzimidazol-2-yl]benzoxazole;
[0113]
2-[1-[3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxanyl]pro-
pyl]-1H-benzimidazol-2-yl]benzothiazole;
[0114]
2-[1-(3-trimethylsilanylpropyl)-1H-benzimidazol-2-yl]benzoxazole;
[0115]
6-methoxy-1,1'-bis(3-trimethylsilanylpropyl)-1H,1'H-[2,2']dibenzimi-
dazolylbenzoxazole;
[0116]
2-[1-(3-trimethylsilanylpropyl)-1H-benzimidazol-2-yl]benzothiazole;
[0117] which are described in Patent Application No. EP-A-1 028
120; and
[0118] (8) triazine derivatives, for example,
2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-
-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine marketed by
the company Ciba Geigy under the name TINOSORB S, and
2,2'-methylenebis-[6-(2-
H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed
by the company Ciba Geigy under the name TINOSORB M.
[0119] It is also possible to use a mixture of several of these
screening agents, e.g., a mixture of UVB-screening agents, and
UVA-screening agents, and at least one of the physical screening
agents.
[0120] The physical screening agents may, for example, be chosen
from at least one of titanium oxide (amorphous and crystalline
titanium dioxide in rutile and anatase forms), zinc oxide, iron
oxide, zirconium oxide, and cerium oxide. These metal oxides may,
for example, be in the form of particles having a micrometric or
nanometric size (nanopigments). In the form of nanopigments, the
average sizes of the particles can range, for example, from 5 to
100 nm. Such an average particle size can readily be determined by
one of ordinary skill in the art using the known techniques.
[0121] These pigments may, for example, be treated so as to make
their surface hydrophobic. The treatment may be carried out
according to methods known to persons skilled in the art. The
pigments may, for example, be coated with silicone compounds such
as PDMS and/or with polymers.
[0122] Of course, persons skilled in the art will be careful to
choose the possible adjuvant(s) added to the compositions disclosed
herein such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached
to the compositions disclosed herein are not, or not substantially,
impaired by the addition envisaged.
[0123] The embodiments disclosed herein are illustrated in greater
detail in the following examples.
EXAMPLE 1
[0124] A foundation was prepared in the form of a water-in-oil
emulsion having the following composition:
1 Fatty phase: isostearyl palmitate 6 g cyclopentasiloxane 30 g
cetyl dimethicone copolyol 2.7 g (Abil .RTM. EM 90 from the company
GOLDSCHMIDT) polyglyceryl-4 isostearate 0.9 g iron oxides coated
with disodium salt of 2 g stearoyl glutamate titanium oxide coated
with disodium salt of 9 g stearoyl glutamate nylon powder 5 g
hectorite 0.5 g hydrophobic pyrogenic silica (Aerosil R 972) 0.35 g
hollow microspheres (Expancel) 0.35 g Aqueous phase: butylene
glycol 5 g magnesium sulphate 1 g PEG 20 1.7 g preservatives qs
water qs 100 g
[0125] The emulsion was prepared at room temperature, on the one
hand, by mixing the pigments in part of the cyclopentasiloxane, on
the other hand, by mixing the other oils with the surfactants and
dispersing the hectorite therein, and then the mixture of pigments
and fillers was added to the other mixed constituents of the fatty
phase. The mixture of the constituents of the aqueous phase was
then prepared and poured into the mixture of the fatty phase, with
stirring, according to known means in order to finally obtain the
emulsion.
[0126] This foundation was stable after storing at room temperature
(25.degree. C.) for 4 months, or even up to 8 months. It was easy
to apply to the skin with a good sensation to the touch, dried
rapidly after application, and the make-up obtained exhibited good
colour homogeneity.
EXAMPLE 2
[0127] A foundation was prepared in the form of a water-in-oil
emulsion having the following composition:
2 Fatty phase: cyclohexasiloxane 33 g cetyl dimethicone copolyol 4
g (Abil .RTM. EM 90 from the company GOLDSCHMIDT) iron oxides
coated with disodium salt of 2 g stearoyl glutamate titanium oxide
coated with disodium salt of 7 g stearoyl glutamate hectorite 0.7 g
silica (Aerosil R 972) 0.6 g Aqueous phase: glycerol 3 g sodium
chloride 0.5 g preservatives qs water qs 100 g
[0128] The emulsion was prepared according to the same procedure
described in Example 1.
[0129] This foundation was stable after storing at room temperature
(25.degree. C.) for 4 months, or even up to 8 months. It was easy
to apply to the skin with a good sensation to the touch, dried
rapidly during application, and the make-up obtained exhibited good
colour homogeneity without leaving traces.
* * * * *