U.S. patent application number 10/923158 was filed with the patent office on 2005-02-03 for cosmetic preparations.
Invention is credited to Ansmann, Achim, Fabry, Bernd.
Application Number | 20050025732 10/923158 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 7811531 |
Filed Date | 2005-02-03 |
United States Patent
Application |
20050025732 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Ansmann, Achim ; et
al. |
February 3, 2005 |
Cosmetic preparations
Abstract
A pearlescent composition containing: (a) a dialkyl ether
corresponding to formula (I): R.sup.1--O--R.sup.2 (I) wherein
R.sup.1 and R.sup.2 independently of one another represent linear
or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms; (b) a cationic polymer; and (c) a fatty acid-N-alkyl
polyhydroxyalkyl amide.
Inventors: |
Ansmann, Achim; (Erkrath,
DE) ; Fabry, Bernd; (Korschenbroich, DE) |
Correspondence
Address: |
COGNIS CORPORATION
PATENT DEPARTMENT
300 BROOKSIDE AVENUE
AMBLER
PA
19002
US
|
Family ID: |
7811531 |
Appl. No.: |
10/923158 |
Filed: |
August 19, 2004 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
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10923158 |
Aug 19, 2004 |
|
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|
09931670 |
Aug 16, 2001 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.13 ;
424/70.14; 424/70.17 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 2800/5426 20130101;
A61Q 5/02 20130101; A61K 8/442 20130101; A61K 8/65 20130101; A61Q
19/10 20130101; A61K 8/604 20130101; A61K 8/463 20130101; A61K
8/731 20130101; A61K 8/33 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/070.13 ;
424/070.14; 424/070.17 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/06; A61K
007/11 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Nov 13, 1996 |
DE |
196 46 869.8 |
Nov 4, 1997 |
WO |
PCT/EP97/06086 |
Claims
1-10 (cancelled).
11. A pearlescent composition comprising: (a) a dialkyl ether
corresponding to formula (I): R.sup.1--O--R.sup.2 (I) wherein
R.sup.1 and R.sup.2 independently of one another represent linear
or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms; (b) a cationic polymer; and (c) a fatty acid-N-alkyl
polyhydroxyalkyl amide.
12. The composition of claim 11 wherein the dialkyl ether is
dialkyl stearate.
13. The composition of claim 11 wherein the cationic polymer is
selected from the group consisting of cationic cellulose
derivatives, cationic starches, copolymers of diallyl ammonium
salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl
imidazole polymers, condensation products of polyglycols and
amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, quaternized wheat
polypeptides, polyethyleneimines, cationic silicone polymers,
copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl
diethylenetriamine, copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl
diallyl ammonium chloride, polyaminopolyamides, cationic chitin
derivatives, condensation products of dihaloalkyls with
bis-dialkylamines, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, and mixtures
thereof.
14. The composition of claim 11 wherein the fatty acid-N-alkyl
polyhydroxyalkyl amide corresponds to formula (III): 5wherein
R.sup.4CO is an aliphatic acyl group containing from 6 to 22 carbon
atoms, R.sup.5 is an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1
to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl
group containing from 3 to 12 carbon atoms and from 3 to 10
hydroxyl groups.
15. The composition of claim 11 containing from 1 to 15% by weight
of the dialkyl ether, from 1 to 15% by weight of the cationic
polymer, and from 70 to 98% by weight of the fatty acid-N-alkyl
polyhydroxyalkyl amide, all weights being based on the total weight
of the composition.
16. The composition of claim 11 wherein the dialkyl ether has an
average particle size of from 0.1 to 20 Fm.
17. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) from 0.1 to 5% by weight
of a dialkyl ether corresponding to formula (I):
R.sup.1--O--R.sup.2 (I) wherein R.sup.1 and R.sup.2 independently
of one another represent linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl
groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; (b) from 0.1 to 5% by
weight of a cationic polymer; (c) from 1 to 50% by weight of a
fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkyl amide; and (d) remainder,
water, all weights being based on the total weight of the cosmetic
composition.
18. A process for imparting pearlescent properties to a cosmetic
composition comprising adding a pearlescent-effective amount of the
pearlescent composition of claim 11 to the cosmetic
composition.
19. The process of claim 18 wherein the cosmetic composition is
selected from the group consisting of a hair shampoo, a hair
lotion, a foam bath, and a skin creme.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] This invention relates to cosmetic formulations containing
(a) selected pearlescent waxes, (b) cationic polymers and (c)
selected emulsifiers and to the use of the mixtures for the
production of pearlescent conditioning shampoos.
PRIOR ART
[0002] Up to 15 years ago, hair shampoos generally consisted solely
of water and surfactants which was undoubtedly quite adequate so
far as the cleaning and degreasing of the hair was concerned. With
the enlightenment of consumers as to the risks involved in handling
cosmetic ingredients and with the demand for products which not
only clean, but also have a caring effect, the requirements which
modern cosmetic formulations in general and hair shampoos in
particular are expected to satisfy have steadily become more
stringent. The consumer justifiably expects the products to show
maximum dermatological compatibility, i.e. irritation of the skin
and mucous membrane should be reliably avoided, even in the event
of frequent use by particularly sensitive people. So far as
personal care is concerned, the formulations are also expected to
improve the combability of hair, i.e. to have a conditioning and
antistatic effect. Finally, it has been found that the appearance
of the formulations, i.e. for example a brilliant pearlescence, has
a positive effect on consumers interested in buying them.
[0003] For the reasons mentioned, modern hair shampoos often
contain mild surfactants, pearlescent waxes, for example ethylene
glycol bis-stearate, and cationic polymers with conditioning
properties. Unfortunately, the formulation possibilities of these
products are limited because cationic polymers have only limited
solubility in aqueous solutions so that either only small
quantities can be used or the appearance of the product suffers and
its pearlescence loses brilliance through the precipitation of the
polymers. An overview of modern pearlescent formulations was
published by A. Ansmann et al. in Parf. Kosm. 75, 578 (1994).
[0004] Pearlescent concentrates containing acylated ethylene
glycols as pearlescent waxes together with alkyl glucosides are
known, for example, from European patents EP-B1 0 376 083 and EP-B1
0 570 398 (Henkel). Compositions containing alkyl oligoglycosides
and cationic polymers are known from European patent EP-B1 0 377
354 (Kao).
[0005] Accordingly, the complex problem addressed by the present
invention was to provide new cosmetic formulations, more
particularly pearlescent conditioning shampoos, which would be
distinguished by brilliant pearlescence, high stability in storage,
excellent conditioning properties and particular dermatological
compatibility.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0006] The present invention relates to cosmetic formulations
containing
[0007] (a) dialkyl ethers corresponding to formula (I):
R.sup.1--O--R.sup.2 (I)
[0008] in which R.sup.1 and R.sup.2 independently of one another
represent linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl groups containing
12 to 22 carbon atoms,
[0009] (b) cationic polymers and
[0010] (c) emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of alkyl
and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides, fatty acid-N-alkyl
polyhydroxyalkylamides, alkyl ether sulfates and/or betaines.
[0011] It has surprisingly been found that, by selecting suitable
pearlescent waxes and emulsifiers, it is possible to obtain
mixtures which are capable of stabilizing cationic polymers in
aqueous formulations, more particularly hair shampoos, so that the
products have the necessary stability in storage. At the same time,
the cooperation of the distearyl ethers with the cationic polymers
results in a synergistic improvement both in the pearlescent effect
and in the conditioning properties. The invention includes the
observation that the mixtures also show particularly advantageous
dermatological compatibility.
[0012] Dialkyl Ethers
[0013] Dialkyl ethers suitable as pearlescent component (a) are
normally prepared by condensation of corresponding fatty alcohols
(Bull. Soc. Chim. France 333 (1949)]. Typical examples are dilauryl
ether, dimyristyl ether, dicetyl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioleyl
ether, dibehenyl ether and dierucyl ether. Distearyl ether is
preferably used. The pearlescent waxes may have an average particle
size of 0.1 to 20 .mu.m, preferably 5 to 15 .mu.m and more
preferably 12 to 14 .mu.m.
[0014] Cationic Polymers
[0015] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic
cellulose derivatives such as, for example, the quaternized
hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name of Polymer JR
400.RTM. from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl
ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl
imidazole polymers such as, for example, Luviquate (BASF),
condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized
collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, Lauryidimonium
Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat.RTM.L Grunau),
quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic
silicone polymers such as, for example, Amidomethicone, copolymers
of adipic acid and dimethyl aminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine
(Cartaretine.RTM., Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with
dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquate 550, Chemviron),
polyaminopolyamides as described, for example, in FR-A 22 52 840
and crosslinked water-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin
derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally
in microcrystalline distribution, condensation products of
dihaloalkyls such as, for example, dibromobutane with
bis-dialkylamines such as, for example,
bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum such as, for
example, Jaguar.RTM. CBS, Jaguar.RTM. C-17, Jaguar.RTM. C-16 of
Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for example,
Mirapol.RTM. A-15, Mirapol.RTM. AD-1, Mirapol.RTM. AZ-1 of
Miranol.
[0016] Alkyl and/or Alkenyl Oligoglycosides
[0017] Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides suitable as emulsifier
component (c) are known nonionic surfactants which correspond to
formula (II):
R.sup.3O--[G].sub.p (II)
[0018] where R.sup.3 is an alkyl and/or alkenyl group containing 4
to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar unit containing 5 or 6 carbon
atoms and p is a number of 1 to 10.
[0019] They may be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative
organic chemistry, for example by acid-catalyzed acetalization of
glucose with fatty alcohols.
[0020] The alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides may be derived from
aldoses or ketoses containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably
glucose. Accordingly, the preferred alkyl and/or alkenyl
oligoglycosides are alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index
p in general formula (II) indicates the degree of oligomerization
(DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and is a
number of 1 to 10. Whereas p in a given compound must always be an
integer and, above all, may assume a value of 1 to 6, the value p
for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined
calculated quantity which is generally a broken number. Alkyl
and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of
oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. Alkyl and/or
alkenyl oligoglycosides having a degree of oligomerization of less
than 1.7 and, more particularly, between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred
from the applicational point of view.
[0021] The alkyl or alkenyl group R.sup.3 may be derived from
primary alcohols containing 4 to 11 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon
atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic
alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and the technical
mixtures thereof obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of
technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of
aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides having
a chain length of C.sub.8 to C.sub.10 (DP=1 to 3), which are
obtained as first runnings in the separation of technical
C.sub.8-18 coconut oil fatty alcohol by distillation and which may
contain less than 6% by weight of C.sub.1-2 alcohol as an impurity,
and also alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C.sub.9/11
oxoalcohols (DP=1 to 3) are preferred. In addition, the alkyl or
alkenyl group R.sup.3 may also be derived from primary alcohols
containing 12 to 22 and preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical
examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,
palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl
alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol,
gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl
alcohol and technical mixtures thereof which may be obtained as
described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated
C.sub.12/14 coconut oil fatty alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3 are
preferred.
[0022] Fatty Acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides
[0023] Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides, which are also
suitable as emulsifier component (c), are nonionic surfactants
which correspond to formula (III): 1
[0024] where R.sup.4CO is an aliphatic acyl group containing 6 to
22 carbon atoms, R.sup.5 is an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group
containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched
polyhydroxyalkyl group containing 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10
hydroxyl groups. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are
known compounds which may normally be obtained by reductive
amination of a reducing sugar with an alkylamine or an alkanolamine
and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl
ester or a fatty acid chloride. Processes for their production are
described in U.S. Pat. No. 1,985,424, in U.S. Pat. No. 2,016,962
and in U.S. Pat. No. 2,703,798 and in International patent
application WO 92/06984. An overview of this subject by H.
Kelkenberg can be found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988).
[0025] The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably
derived from reducing sugars containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, more
particularly from glucose. Accordingly, the preferred fatty acid
N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides
which correspond to formula (IV): 2
[0026] Preferred fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are
glucamides corresponding to formula (IV) in which R.sup.5 is an
alkyl group and R.sup.4CO represents the acyl component of caproic
acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid,
palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid,
oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic
acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or
technical mixtures thereof. Fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides (IV)
obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and
subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C.sub.12/14 cocofatty acid
or a corresponding derivative are particularly preferred. In
addition, the polyhydroxyalkylamides may also be derived from
maltose and palatinose.
[0027] Alkyl Ether Sulfates
[0028] Besides the nonionic glucosides or glucamides, anionic
surfactants of the alkyl ether sulfate type may also be used as
emulsifier component (c). It is known that alkyl ether sulfates
("ether sulfates") are anionic surfactants which are industrially
produced by the sulfation of oxoalcohol or fatty alcohol polyglycol
ethers with SO.sub.3 or chlorosulfonic acid (CSA) and subsequent
neutralization. Ether sulfates suitable for the purposes of the
invention correspond to formula (V):
R.sup.6O--(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.xSO.sub.3X (V)
[0029] in which R.sup.6 is a linear or branched alkyl and/or
alkenyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x is a number of 1
to 10 and X is an alkali metal and/or alkaline earth metal,
ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium. Typical
examples are the sulfates of addition products of on average 1 to
10 and, more particularly, 2 to 5 moles of ethylene oxide with
caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethyl hexyl alcohol, capric
alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol,
cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl
alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol,
arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol
and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof in the form of
their sodium and/or magnesium salts. The ether sulfates may have
both a conventional homolog distribution and a narrow homolog
distribution. It is particularly preferred to use ether sulfates
based on adducts of, on average, 2 to 3 moles of ethylene oxide
with technical C.sub.12/14 or C.sub.12/18 cocofatty alcohol
fractions in the form of their sodium and/or magnesium salts.
[0030] Betaines
[0031] Finally, betaines are suitable as the emulsifiers forming
component (c) for stabilizing the pearlescent formulations
according to the invention. Betaines are known surfactants which
are mainly produced by carboxyalkylation, preferably
carboxymethylation, of aminic compounds. The starting materials are
preferably condensed with halocarboxylic acids or salts thereof,
more particularly with sodium chloroacetate, 1 mole of salt being
formed per mole of betaine. The addition of unsaturated carboxylic
acids, for example acrylic acid, is also possible. Particulars of
the nomenclature and, in particular, the distinction between
betaines and "genuine" amphoteric surfactants can be found in the
article by U. Ploog in Seifen-le-Fette-Wachse, 198, 373 (1982).
Other reviews of this subject have been published, for example, by
A. O'Lenick et al. in HAPPI, Nov. 70 (1986), by S. Holzman et al.
in Tens. Surf. Det. 23, 309 (1986), by R. Bibo et al. in Soap Cosm.
Chem. Spec., Apr. 46 (1990) and by P. Ellis et al. in Euro Cosm. 1,
14 (1994). Examples of suitable betaines are the carboxyalkylation
products of secondary and, in particular, tertiary amines
corresponding to formula (VI): 3
[0032] in which R.sup.7 stands for alkyl and/or alkenyl groups
containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R.sup.8 stands for hydrogen or
alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R.sup.9 stands for
alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n is a number of 1 to
6 and X is an alkali metal and/or alkaline earth metal or ammonium.
Typical examples are the carboxymethylation products of hexyl
methyl amine, hexyl dimethyl amine, octyl dimethyl amine, decyl
dimethyl amine, dodecyl methyl amine, dodecyl dimethyl amine,
dodecyl ethyl methyl amine, C.sub.12/14 cocoalkyl dimethyl amine,
myristyl dimethyl amine, cetyl dimethyl amine, stearyl dimethyl
amine, stearyl ethyl methyl amine, oleyl dimethyl amine,
C.sub.16/18 tallow alkyl dimethyl amine and technical mixtures
thereof.
[0033] Other suitable betaines are carboxyalkylation products of
amido-amines corresponding to formula (VIl): 4
[0034] in which R.sup.10CO is an aliphatic acyl group containing 6
to 22 carbon atoms and 0 or 1 to 3 double bonds, m is a number of 1
to 3 and R.sup.8, R.sup.9, n and X are as defined above. Typical
examples are reaction products of fatty acids containing 6 to 22
carbon atoms, namely caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid,
lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid,
stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic
acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic
acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical
mixtures thereof, with N,N-dimethyl aminoethyl amine, N,N-dimethyl
aminopropyl amine, N,N-diethyl aminoethyl amine and N,N-diethyl
aminopropyl amine which are condensed with sodium chloroacetate. It
is preferred to use a condensation product of C.sub.8/18 cocofatty
acid-N,N-dimethyl aminopropyl amide with sodium chloroacetate.
[0035] Other suitable starting materials for the betaines to be
used in accordance with the invention are imidazolines.
Imidazolines are also known compounds which may be obtained, for
example, by cyclizing condensation of 1 or 2 moles of fatty acid
with polyfunctional amines, for example aminoethyl ethanolamine
(AEEA) or diethylene triamine. The corresponding carboxyalkylation
products are mixtures of different open-chain betaines. Typical
examples are condensation products of the above-mentioned fatty
acids with AEEA, preferably imidazolines based on lauric acid
or--again--C.sub.12/14 cocofatty acid which are subsequently
betainized with sodium chloroacetate.
[0036] Cosmetic Formulations
[0037] The percentage contents of components (a), (b) and (c) in
the formulations according to the invention, based on their solids
content, may be (1 to 15): (1 to 15): (70 to 98) parts by weight,
with the proviso that the quantities add up to 100% by weight. In
one preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic
formulations have the following composition:
[0038] (a) 0.1 to 5 and preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight dialkyl
ethers corresponding to formula (I),
[0039] (b) 0.1 to 5 and preferably 1 to 2% by weight cationic
polymers and
[0040] (c) 1 to 50 and preferably 5 to 25% by weight emulsifiers,
with the proviso that the quantities add up to 100% by weight with
water and other typical auxiliaries and additives.
[0041] Commercial Applications
[0042] The pearlescent formulations containing cationic polymers
according to the invention are distinguished by high stability in
storage and brilliant pearlescence. Since the combination of the
selected pearlescers and selected emulsifiers is critical to the
stability of the formulations, the present invention also relates
to the use of the mixtures mentioned for the production of
pearlescent conditioning shampoos.
[0043] Cosmetic Formulations
[0044] The formulations according to the invention, such as for
example hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, cremes, lotions or
emollients, may also contain other mild surfactants, oils,
co-emulsifiers, superfatting agents, stabilizers, waxes,
consistency regulators, thickeners, biogenic agents, anti-dandruff
agents, film formers, preservatives, hydrotropes, solubilizers, UV
filters, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, dyes and
fragrances as further auxiliaries and additives.
[0045] Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. particularly
skin-compatible, surfactants are monoglyceride sulfates, mono-
and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid
sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether
carboxylic acids and/or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter
preferably being based on wheat proteins.
[0046] Suitable oils are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on
fatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon
atoms, esters of linear C.sub.6-22 fatty acids with linear
C.sub.6-22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C.sub.6-13 carboxylic
acids with linear C.sub.6-22 fatty alcohols, esters of linear
C.sub.6-22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, more particularly
2-ethyl hexanol, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with
polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimer diol or
trimer triol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on
C.sub.6-10 fatty acids, esters of C.sub.6-22 fatty alcohols and/or
Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, more particularly
benzoic acid, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols,
substituted cyclohexanes, linear C.sub.6-22 fatty alcohol
carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with C.sub.6-22 alcohols,
Guerbet carbonates and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.
[0047] Suitable co-emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic
surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
[0048] (1) products of the addition of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene
oxide and/or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty
alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing
12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols containing 8 to 15 carbon
atoms in the alkyl group;
[0049] (2) C.sub.12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of
products of the addition of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to
glycerol;
[0050] (3) glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters
and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids containing 6
to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide adducts thereof;
[0051] (4) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor
oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;
[0052] (5) polyol esters and, in particular, polyglycerol esters
such as, for example, polyglycerol polyricinoleate or polyglycerol
poly-12-hydroxystearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of
these classes are also suitable;
[0053] (6) products of the addition of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene
oxide with castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;
[0054] (7) partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or
saturated C.sub.6/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and
12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol,
dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (for example sorbitol), alkyl
glucosides (for example methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl
glucoside) and polyglucosides (for example cellulose);
[0055] (8) trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or tri-PEG-alkyl
phosphates;
[0056] (9) wool wax alcohols;
[0057] (10) polysiloxane/polyalkyl polyether copolymers and
corresponding derivatives;
[0058] (11) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric
acid and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 11 65 574 and/or mixed
esters of fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl
glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol, and
[0059] (12) polyalkylene glycols.
[0060] The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene
oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol
monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of
fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available
products. They are homolog mixtures of which the average degree of
alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between the quantities of
ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the
addition reaction is carried out. C.sub.12/18 fatty acid monoesters
and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide with glycerol
are known as refatting agents for cosmetic formulations from DE-PS
20 24 051. Besides nonionic emulsifiers, cationic emulsifiers are
also suitable, those of the esterquat type--especially
methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts--being
particularly preferred.
[0061] The superfatting agents used may be such substances as, for
example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated
lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters,
monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the latter also
serving as foam stabilizers. Suitable consistency regulators are,
above all, fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to
18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides. These
substances are preferably used in combination with alkyl
oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid-N-methyl glucamides of the same
chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable
thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, more particularly
xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses,
carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, relatively high
molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of
fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopols.RTM. [Goodrich]
or Synthalense [Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and
polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example,
ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with
polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylol
propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates or alkyl
oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and
ammonium chloride.
[0062] Typical examples of fats are glycerides while suitable waxes
are inter alia beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax,
paraffin wax or microwaxes, optionally in combination with
hydrophilic waxes, for example cetostearyl alcohol, or partial
glycerides. The pearlescent waxes used may be, in particular, mono-
and difatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, partial glycerides
or esters of fatty alcohols with polybasic carboxylic acids or
hydroxycarboxylic acids. Suitable stabilizers are metal salts of
fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc
stearates. Biogenic agents in the context of the invention are, for
example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate,
ascorbic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol,
panthenol, AHA acids, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
Suitable anti-dandruff agents are Climbazol, Octopirox and zinc
pyrithione. Typical film formers are, for example, chitosan,
microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl
pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers
of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives,
collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar
compounds.
[0063] In the context of the invention, UV filters are organic
compounds which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of
releasing the energy absorbed in the form of longer wave radiation,
for example heat. Typical examples are 4-aminobenzoic acid and
esters and derivatives thereof (for example
2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethylaminobenzoate or p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid
octyl ester), methoxycinnamic acid and derivatives thereof (for
example 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester), benzophenones
(for example oxybenzone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzoph- enone),
dibenzoyl methanes, salicylate esters, 2-phenyl
benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid,
1-(4-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl- )-propane-1,3-dione,
3-(4'-methyl)-benzylidenebornan-2-one, methyl-benzylidene camphor
and the like. Other suitable UV filters are finely disperse metal
oxides and salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron
oxide, aluminium oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates
(talcum) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average
diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably from 5 to 50 nm and more
preferably from 15 to 30 nm. They may be spherical in shape
although ellipsoidal particles or other non-spherical particles may
also be used. Besides the two above-mentioned groups of primary
light filters, secondary light filters of the antioxidant type,
which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain initiated when UV
radiation penetrates into the skin, may also be used. Typical
examples of these secondary light filters are Superoxid-Dismutase,
Tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
[0064] In addition, hydrotropes, such as, for example, ethanol,
isopropyl alcohol or polyols may be used to improve flow behavior.
Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at
least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are
[0065] glycerol;
[0066] alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol,
diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene
glycol and polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight
of 100 to 1,000 dalton;
[0067] technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of
self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as, for example, technical
diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by
weight;
[0068] methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol
ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol
and dipentaerythritol;
[0069] lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8
carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl
glucoside;
[0070] sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as, for
example, sorbitol or mannitol;
[0071] sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as, for example,
glucose or sucrose and
[0072] aminosugars such as, for example, glucamine.
[0073] Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol,
formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid.
Suitable insect repellents are N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide,
pentane-1,2-diol or Insect Repellent 3535. A suitable self-tanning
agent is dihydroxyacetone. Suitable dyes are any of the substances
suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes as listed, for example,
in the publication "Kosmetische Frbemittel" of the
Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag
Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106, These dyes are normally
used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the
mixture as a whole.
[0074] The total percentage content of auxiliaries and additives
may be from 1 to 50% by weight and is preferably from 5 to 40% by
weight, based on the particular formulation. The formulations may
be prepared by standard cold or hot processes and are preferably
produced by the phase inversion temperature method.
EXAMPLES
[0075] The test formulations were stored for 14 days at 20.degree.
C. and were then subjectively evaluated for stability in storage
and pearlescence. For stability in storage, (+++) means unchanged,
(++) means barely noticeable clouding, (+) means distinct clouding
and (-) means sedimentation of the cationic polymer. For
pearlescence, (+++) means brilliant, (++) means moderately
brilliant and (+) means dull. The conditioning effect was
determined via the wet combability of hair tresses. To this end,
the combing work in mV was measured for an untreated tress of hair
and for an identical tress treated with the test solution. The
result is expressed as the difference between these two values as
the average of three determinations. The greater the difference,
the more distinctly combing work is reduced and hence combability
is improved. Dermatological compatibility was determined as the
total irritation score against a standard formulation. The results
are set out in Table 1. Formulations 1 to 4 correspond to the
invention while formulations C1 and C2 are intended for
comparison.
1TABLE 1 Composition and Properties of Pearlescent Shampoos
Containing Cationic Polymers INCI Name 1 2 3 4 C1 C2 Distearylether
1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 -- 1.0 Ethyleneglycol Distearate -- -- -- -- 1.0 --
Lauryldimonium Hydroxy- 2.0 -- 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 propyl Hydrolyzed
collagen Quaternized Hydroxyethyl -- 2.0 -- -- -- -- Cellulose
Lauryl Glucoside 15.0 -- -- 5.0 -- -- Sodium Laureth Sulfate --
12.0 12.0 10.0 12.0 -- Cocoamidopropyl Betaine -- -- 5.0 2.0 -- --
Laureth-2 -- -- -- -- -- 30.0 Water to 100 Stability in storage ++
+++ ++ +++ + - Pearlescence +++ +++ +++ +++ ++ + Wet compatability
[mV] 44 39 38 47 20 19 Skin-cosmetic compatability 105 104 107 109
102 100 [% rel.]
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