U.S. patent application number 10/849825 was filed with the patent office on 2005-01-06 for skin makeup compositions having optimized application qualities.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Barrois, Veronique, Gardel, Nadia.
Application Number | 20050002890 10/849825 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 33042015 |
Filed Date | 2005-01-06 |
United States Patent
Application |
20050002890 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Gardel, Nadia ; et
al. |
January 6, 2005 |
Skin makeup compositions having optimized application qualities
Abstract
The present invention relates to a fluid cosmetic composition in
the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a liquid fatty
phase, an aqueous phase and a dimethicone copolyol, characterized
in that it comprises solid particles of polymethyl methacrylate and
in that the liquid fatty phase comprises isododecane, the the said
composition being free of cyclotetrasiloxane.
Inventors: |
Gardel, Nadia; (Bourg La
Reine, FR) ; Barrois, Veronique; (Paris, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
OLIFF & BERRIDGE, PLC
P.O. BOX 19928
ALEXANDRIA
VA
22320
US
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
33042015 |
Appl. No.: |
10/849825 |
Filed: |
May 21, 2004 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
|
|
|
|
|
|
Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
60506774 |
Sep 30, 2003 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.16 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/064 20130101;
A61K 8/31 20130101; A61K 2800/412 20130101; A61Q 1/02 20130101;
A61K 8/8152 20130101; A61K 8/894 20130101; A61K 8/11 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/070.16 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/06; A61K
007/11 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
May 22, 2003 |
FR |
03 06150 |
Claims
1. Fluid cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil
emulsion comprising a liquid fatty phase, an aqueous phase and a
dimethicone copolyol, characterized in that it comprises solid
particles of polymethyl methacrylate and in that the liquid fatty
phase comprises isododecane, the said composition being free of
cyclotetrasiloxane.
2. Fluid cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil
emulsion comprising a liquid fatty phase, an aqueous phase, a
dimethicone copolyol and a C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone
copolyol, characterized in that it comprises solid particles of
polymethyl methacrylate and in that the liquid fatty phase
comprises a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, the said composition
being free of cyclotetrasiloxane.
3. Composition according to either of claims 1 and 2, characterized
in that the solid polymethyl methacrylate particles have a density
ranging from 0.3 to 0.95, especially from 0.45 to 0.80 and more
particularly from 0.5 to 0.75.
4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises at least two polymethyl
methacrylates that are different in terms of density.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it combines two types of polymethyl
methacrylate particles whose difference in density is at least
0.12, especially at least 0.15, in particular at least 0.18 and
more particularly at least 0.22.
6. Composition according to either of claims 4 and 5, characterized
in that the polymethyl methacrylate particles are present in weight
proportions ranging, respectively, from 40% to 60% by weight,
especially from 45% to 55% and in particular from 48% to 52%
relative to the total weight of polymethyl methacrylates.
7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the
content of polymethyl methacrylate of higher density is predominant
over the content of polymethyl methacrylate of lower density.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises from 1% to 10% by weight,
especially from 2% to 7% by weight and more particularly from 2.5%
to 5.5% by weight of polymethyl methacrylate relative to the total
weight of the the said composition.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized
in that the dimethicone copolyol is a compound of formula (I)
below: 4in which: R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3, independently of
each other, represent a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical or a radical
--(CH.sub.2).sub.x--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.y--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2-
).sub.z--OR.sub.4, at least one radical R.sub.1, R.sub.2 or R.sub.3
not being an alkyl radical, R.sub.4 being a hydrogen, a
C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl radical or a C.sub.2-C.sub.4 acyl radical; A
is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer ranging from 0
to 50; with the condition that A and B are not simultaneously equal
to 0; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging
from 1 to 30; and z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that
R.sub.1.dbd.R.sub.3=methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2
to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
11. Composition according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that
R.sub.4 is a hydrogen atom.
12. Composition according to any one of claims 9 to 11,
characterized in that the dimethicone copolyol is a compound of
formula (II) below: 5in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to
105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer
ranging from 10 to 20.
13. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the
dimethicone copolyol is a compound of formula (III)
below:HO--(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.y--(CH.sub.2).sub.3--[(CH.sub.3).sub.2S-
iO].sub.A'--[(CH.sub.3).sub.2Si]
--(CH.sub.2).sub.3--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).s- ub.y--OH (III)in which
A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
14. Composition according to any one of claims 9 to 13,
characterized in that the dimethicone copolyol is present in a
content ranging from 5% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from
5% to 8% by weight and preferentially ranging from 5% to 7% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 14,
characterized in that the C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone
copolyol is a compound of formula (IV) below: 6in which: PE
represents (--C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.x--- (C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.y--R,
R being chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical containing
from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging
from 0 to 80, x and y not simultaneously being 0; m ranging from 1
to 40; n ranging from 10 to 200; o ranging from 1 to 100; p ranging
from 7 to 21; and q ranging from 0 to 4.
16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that
R.dbd.H; m=1 to 10; n=10 to 100; o=1 to 30; p=15and q=3.
17. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 16,
characterized in that the C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone
copolyol is cetyl dimethicone copolyol.
18. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 17,
characterized in that the C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone
copolyol is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight
and in particular ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition.
19. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 18,
characterized in that the hydrocarbon-based volatile oil is chosen
from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing
from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
20. Composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the
volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from isododecane,
isohexadecane and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, and
especially isododecane, represents from 5% to 25%, especially from
10% to 20% and in particular from 10% to 15% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition.
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the isododecane or the volatile
hydrocarbon-based oil is combined with at least one distinct
additional volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, fluoro
oils and/or silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy
groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain.
23. Composition according to claim 22, characterized in that the
silicone oil is a linear, branched or cyclic silicone oil with a
viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 mm.sup.2/s and
containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms.
24. Composition according to claim 22 or 23, characterized in that
the silicone oil is chosen from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane,
heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane,
hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane,
decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures
thereof.
25. Composition according to any one of claims 22 to 24,
characterized in that the additional volatile oil represents from
20% to 32%, especially from 20% to 30% and more particularly from
22% to 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the composition also comprises at least one
non-volatile oil.
27. Composition according to claim 26, characterized in that the
non-volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral
or synthetic origin, oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils
of plant origin with a high triglyceride content consisting of
fatty acid esters of glycerol, fatty acid esters, in particular
containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, synthetic esters of formula
R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 in which R.sub.1 represents a linear or branched
higher fatty acid residue containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and
R.sub.2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing
from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, hydroxylated esters, esters of aromatic
acids and of alcohol containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, C.sub.8
to C.sub.26 higher fatty acids, C.sub.8 to C.sub.26 higher fatty
alcohols, synthetic ethers containing at least 7 carbon atoms,
silicone oils, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty
alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, liquid fluorosilicones, and
caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
28. Composition according to claim 26 or 27, characterized in that
it comprises 0.1% to 12% and especially 1% to 5% of at least one
non-volatile oil, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises at least one wax, at least one
gum and/or at least one pasty fatty substance, which is
silicone-based or non-silicone-based, of plant, animal, mineral or
synthetic origin.
30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises 0.01% to 10% by weight and
especially 0.1% to 5% by weight of at least one wax relative to the
total weight of the composition.
31. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises a thickener for the liquid fatty
phase.
32. Composition according to claim 31, characterized in that the
thickener is chosen from organomodified clays and hydrophobic fumed
silica.
33. Composition according to claim 31 or 32, characterized in that
the fatty-phase thickener is present in a content ranging from 0.1%
to 5% by weight and especially from 0.4% to 3% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
34. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one
water-miscible organic solvent and/or stabilizers and/or at least
one water-soluble or water-dispersible compound.
35. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the the said aqueous phase is present in a
proportion of from 30% to 50% by weight and especially from 35% to
45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
36. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it also comprises at least one additional
filler different from the polymethyl methacrylate powders.
37. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that this filler is present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 10% by
weight and in particular from 0.1% to 7% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition.
38. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it also comprises a dyestuff chosen from
lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres.
39. Composition according to claim 38, characterized in that the
pigments are hydrophobic-coated pigments.
40. Composition according to claim 38 or 39, characterized in that
this dyestuff is present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 40% by
weight, especially from 1% to 35% by weight, in particular from 2%
to 25% by weight and more particularly from 3% to 20% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
41. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it is in the form of a skin makeup
composition and in particular a fluid foundation.
42. Process for making up the skin, characterized in that it
comprises the application to the skin of at least one composition
according to any one of the preceding claims.
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a skin makeup composition
and more particularly a composition of fluid foundation type,
having optimized application qualities.
[0002] In general, producing a satisfactory makeup effect on the
skin using a foundation involves being able to distribute the the
said foundation uniformly over the entire surface to be made up. To
do this, it is necessary for the foundation formulation to have
slip qualities that are sufficient to allow good handling,
especially for the purpose of covering the entire surface to be
made up. It is this that especially makes it possible in the end to
have a uniform makeup effect, without marks or demarcations.
[0003] More particularly, the inventors have demonstrated that the
presence of an effective amount of polymethyl methacrylate, also
known as PMMA, in certain compositions of foundation type are
specifically advantageous in these terms.
[0004] Polymethyl methacrylates are generally in the form of hollow
white spherical particles generally of the order of a micrometre in
size. These particles have the particular feature of having high
water or oil adsorption capacity, which is particularly
advantageous in cosmetic formulations. Thus, in oil-based cosmetic
compositions, by partially adsorbing these oils, they give the
corresponding composition a dry and powdery feel. Moreover, in
formulations of lipstick base type, they allow 10% to 30% of water
to be incorporated. These hollow spherical particles of polymethyl
methacrylate have thus already been proposed for encapsulation or
reservoir purposes, in dry oils, water-based lipsticks and free or
compacted powders with a high oil or water content.
[0005] The inventors have found, unexpectedly, that the presence of
polymethyl methacrylate can also be a deciding factor for
optimizing the properties of cosmetic compositions such as,
especially, "fluid" foundations, in terms of application.
[0006] Consequently, according to a first aspect, the main subject
of the present invention is a fluid cosmetic composition in the
form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a liquid fatty phase, an
aqueous phase and a dimethicone copolyol, characterized in that it
comprises solid particles of polymethyl methacrylate and in that
the liquid fatty phase comprises isododecane, the said composition
being free of cyclotetrasiloxane.
[0007] According to a second aspect, the present invention is also
directed towards a fluid cosmetic composition in the form of a
water-in-oil emulsion comprising a liquid fatty phase, an aqueous
phase, a dimethicone copolyol and a C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl
dimethicone copolyol, characterized in that it comprises solid
particles of polymethyl methacrylate and in that the liquid fatty
phase comprises a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, the the said
composition being free of cyclotetrasiloxane.
[0008] According to another of its aspects, a subject of the
present invention is also a process for making up the skin,
characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of
at least one composition in accordance with the invention.
[0009] Polymethyl Methacrylates
[0010] The polymethyl methacrylates are generally in the form of
hollow or solid white spherical particles generally with a
micrometre-scale number-average size, in particular ranging from 5
to 20 microns and generally ranging from 7 to 15 microns. The
expression "number-average size" denotes the size given by the
statistical particle size distribution to half of the population,
referred to as D50.
[0011] It is also possible to characterize these polymethyl
methacrylate particles by their density, which can vary especially
as a function of the size of the spherical cavity of the said
particles.
[0012] In the context of the present invention, this density is
assessed according to the following protocol, referred to as the
packed density:
[0013] m=40 g of powder is poured into a measuring cylinder; the
measuring cylinder is then placed on a STAV 2003 machine from
STAMPF VOLUMETER; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to 1500
packing motions; the final volume Vf of packed powder is then
measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The packed density is
determined by the ratio m/vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being
expressed in cm.sup.3 and m in g).
[0014] In particular, the density of the polymethyl methacrylate
particles that may be used according to the invention may range
from 0.3 to 0.95, especially from 0.45 to 0.80 and more
particularly from 0.5 to 0.75.
[0015] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the
composition according to the invention comprises at least two
polymethyl methacrylates that differ in their density.
[0016] According to this variant of the invention, the composition
may comprise two types of polymethyl methacrylate particle, the
difference in density of which is at least 0.12, especially at
least 0.15, in particular at least 0.18 and more particularly at
least 0.22.
[0017] By way of illustration, a composition according to the
invention can combine a polymethyl methacrylate of density 0.5 with
a second polymethyl methacrylate of density 0.75.
[0018] The polymethyl methacrylates of different densities may be
combined in weight proportions ranging, respectively, from 40% to
60%, especially from 45% to 55% and in particular from 48% to 52%
by weight relative to the total weight of polymethyl methacrylates,
or even in a weight ratio of 1.
[0019] Without wishing to be bound to any theory, it appears that
the polymethyl methacrylate powders with a density of greater than
0.5 are more particularly advantageous for prolonging the slip
qualities of the composition over time. As regards the polymethyl
methacrylate particles with a density of less than or equal to 0.5,
these would appear to be more advantageous in terms of handling of
the the said composition. In other words, the foundation can be put
on more quickly.
[0020] According to one particular variant of the invention, the
content of polymethyl methacrylate of higher density is predominant
over the content of polymethyl methacrylate of lower density.
[0021] In particular, the polymethyl methacrylate particles of
higher density may be solid particles, and the polymethyl
methacrylate particles of lower density may be hollow
particles.
[0022] The polymethyl methacrylates according to the invention may
be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 10%
by weight, in particular from 2% to 7% and more particularly from
2.5% to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0023] As non-limiting illustrations of the polymethyl
methacrylates that are suitable for the invention, mention may be
made especially of the polymethyl methacrylate particles sold by
the company WACKHERR under the name Covabead LH 85 and those sold
by the company NIHON JUNYAKU under the name JURYMER MB1.
[0024] In the context of the present invention, the polymethyl
methacrylates are advantageously formulated in a liquid fatty phase
comprising at least one volatile oil.
[0025] Dimethicone Copolyol
[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises at
least one dimethicone copolyol.
[0027] This dimethicone copolyol is an oxypropylenated and/or
oxyethylenated polydimethyl methyl siloxane. It contains no
long-chain alkyl groups of more than 8 carbon atoms, especially
C.sub.8-C.sub.22.
[0028] Dimethicone copolyols that may be used include those
corresponding to formula (I) below: 1
[0029] in which:
[0030] R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3, independently of each other,
represent a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical or a radical
--(CH.sub.2).sub.x--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.y--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2-
).sub.z, --OR.sub.4, at least one radical R.sub.1, R.sub.2 or
R.sub.3 not being an alkyl radical, R.sub.4 being a hydrogen, a
C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl radical or a C.sub.2-C.sub.4 acyl
radical;
[0031] A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
[0032] B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the condition
that A and B are not simultaneously equal to 0;
[0033] x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
[0034] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; and
[0035] z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
[0036] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, in
the compound of formula (I), R.sub.1.dbd.R.sub.3=methyl radical, x
is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from
4 to 30. R.sub.4 is in particular a hydrogen.
[0037] Examples of compounds of formula (I) that may be mentioned
included the compounds of formula (II): 2
[0038] in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an
integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to
20.
[0039] Examples of silicone compounds of formula (I) that may also
be mentioned include the compounds of formula (III):
HO--(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.y--(CH.sub.2).sub.3--[(CH.sub.3).sub.2SiO].sub-
.A'--[(CH.sub.3).sub.2Si]--(CH.sub.2).sub.3--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.y--OH
(III)
[0040] in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
[0041] Dimethicone copolyols that may be used include those sold
under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by the
company DOW CORNING; KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016 and KF-6017 by the
company SHIN-ETSU.
[0042] The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are
compounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2
and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y
is 12.
[0043] The dimethicone copolyol may be present in the composition
according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 10% by
weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 8% by weight and
preferentially ranging from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
[0044] Alkyl Dimethicone Copolyol
[0045] According to the second aspect of the invention, the
composition contains at least one C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl
dimethicone copolyol.
[0046] The C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol present in
the composition according to the invention may be in particular an
oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl
(C.sub.8-C.sub.22)alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.
[0047] The C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is
advantageously a compound of formula (IV) below: 3
[0048] in which:
[0049] PE represents
(--C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.x--(C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.y--R- , R being
chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical containing from 1
to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging from 0 to
80, x and y not simultaneously being 0;
[0050] m ranging from 1 to 40;
[0051] n ranging from 10 to 200;
[0052] o ranging from 1 to 100;
[0053] p ranging from 7 to 21; and
[0054] q ranging from 0 to 4, and in particular:
[0055] R=H;
[0056] m=1 to 10;
[0057] n=10 to 100;
[0058] o=1 to 30;
[0059] p=15; and
[0060] q=3.
[0061] C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols that may be
mentioned include cetyl dimethicone copolyol, for instance the
product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company
Goldschmidt.
[0062] The C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol may be
present in the composition according to the invention in a content
ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight and in particular ranging from
0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0063] Fatty Phase
[0064] The term "liquid fatty phase" means any non-aqueous medium
that is liquid at room temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric
pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more fatty substances that
are liquid at room temperature. This liquid fatty phase may contain
a volatile liquid organic phase and/or a non-volatile liquid
organic phase.
[0065] The term "volatile organic phase" means any non-aqueous
medium capable of evaporating from the skin in less than one hour
at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. This volatile phase
especially comprises oils with a vapour pressure, at room
temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg),
ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10.sup.31 3 to 300 mmHg),
especially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and
in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[0066] In addition, the volatile oil generally has a boiling point,
measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150.degree. C. to
260.degree. C. and especially ranging from 170.degree. C. to
250.degree. C.
[0067] Advantageously, the volatile organic phase contains one or
more volatile organic oils with a flash point ranging from
30.degree. C to 102.degree. C., in particular from 40.degree. C. to
55.degree. C. and especially from 40.degree. C. to 50.degree. C.,
and mixtures thereof.
[0068] The term "non-volatile organic phase" means any medium
capable of remaining on the skin for several hours. A non-volatile
liquid organic phase in particular has a non-zero vapour pressure
at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, of less than 0.001
mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0069] The liquid fatty phase of the emulsion according to the
invention contains at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil,
which, according to a first aspect of the invention, is at least
isododecane.
[0070] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed
essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms,
and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon
or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic
acid, amine and/or amide groups.
[0071] As volatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention
may be made of linear or branched hydrocarbon-based volatile oils
containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and
especially branched C.sub.8-C.sub.16 alkanes, for instance
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins),
isododecane, isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the
trade names Isopar.RTM. or Permethyl.RTM., and branched
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and
mixtures thereof. Isododecane is used in particular.
[0072] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, and especially
isododecane, may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by
weight, especially ranging from 10% to 20% by weight and in
particular ranging from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[0073] The emulsion according to the invention may comprise an
additional volatile oil, i.e. an oil other than the volatile oil
required according to the invention, which may be chosen from
hydrocarbon-based volatile oils, this oil being other than
isododecane when the composition comprises isododecane, volatile
silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are
pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, and volatile fluoro
oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0074] As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention,
mention may be made of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils
with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 mm.sup.2/s and
especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones
optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to
10 carbon atoms that are pendent or at the end of each silicone. As
volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention
may especially be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane,
heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane,
hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane,
decamethyl-tetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and
mixtures thereof. On the other hand, the silicone oil
cyclotetrasiloxane will not be considered according to the
invention, especially on account of its lack of harmlessness.
[0075] The volatile fluoro oil generally does not have a flash
point.
[0076] Volatile fluoro oils that may be mentioned include
nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane,
tetradecafluorohexane and dodecafluoro-pentane, and mixtures
thereof.
[0077] Advantageously, the additional volatile oil represents from
20% to 32% by weight, especially from 20% to 30% by weight and in
particular from 22% to 26% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0078] The composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile
oil.
[0079] As non-volatile oils that may be used in the invention,
mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or
synthetic origin, such as linear or branched hydrocarbons, for
instance liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, liquid petroleum
jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam sold
by the company NIPPON Oil Fats, and squalane of synthetic or plant
origin; oils of animal origin, for instance mink oil, turtle oil or
perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin with a
high triglyceride content consisting of fatty acid esters of
glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths,
these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or
unsaturated, especially fatty acid triglycerides especially of 4 to
22 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid
triglyceride, and capric/caprylic acid triglyceride, or
alternatively hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond oil,
calophyllum oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, arara oil,
rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cotton oil, apricot oil, castor oil,
alfalfa oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, macadamia oil, musk rose
oil, hazelnut oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, cereal
(maize, wheat, barley or rye) germ oil, or shea butter; fatty acid
esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of
octanoic acid, of heptanoic acid, of lanolic acid, of oleic acid,
of lauric acid or of stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol
dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2
diisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; synthetic esters of
formula R.sub.1 COOR.sub.2 in which R.sub.1 represents a linear or
branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 7 to 40 carbon
atoms and R.sub.2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain
containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil
(cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C.sub.12 to
C.sub.15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl
stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate,
2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates,
decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl
palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate,
2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl
palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate,
diisostearyl malate or glyceryl triisostearate or diglyceryl
triisostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl
lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate,
diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; diethylene glycol
diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids
and of alcohols containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially
tridecyl trimellitate; C.sub.8-C.sub.26 higher fatty acids such as
oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;
C.sub.8-C.sub.26 higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol,
linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or
octyldodecanol; synthetic ethers containing at least 7 carbon
atoms, silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) that are
liquid at room temperature, linear, and optionally phenylated, such
as phenyltrimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes,
diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, liquid
2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, optionally substituted with
aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, for instance alkyl, alkoxy or
phenyl groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone
chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms and being
optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl,
thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids,
fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, for instance dimethicone
copolyols or alkylmethicone copolyols; liquid fluorosilicones; or
caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the
company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names Miglyol
810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL; and mixtures
thereof.
[0080] The composition may comprise one or more non-volatile oils
in a content ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight and especially from
1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0081] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
at least one wax, at least one gum and/or at least one pasty fatty
substance, which is silicone-based or non-silicone-based, of plant,
animal, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0082] For the purpose of the present invention, the term "wax"
means a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature
(25.degree. C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state,
having a melting point of greater than 30.degree. C. which may be
up to 200.degree. C., a hardness of greater than 0.5 MPa, and
having an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. By
bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it
miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous
mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room
temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the
mixture is obtained.
[0083] For the purposes of the present invention, the waxes may be
hydrocarbon-based waxes, silicone waxes and/or fluoro waxes,
optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They are
especially of natural origin, for instance optionally modified
beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork
fibre wax or sugarcane wax, ceresin, paraffin wax, lignite wax,
microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites,
hydrogenated oils, for instance hydrogenated jojoba oil or waxes
obtained from the copolymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by
Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides that
are solid at 45.degree. C., silicone waxes, for instance alkyl,
alkoxy and/or esters of poly(di)methylsiloxane that are solid at
45.degree. C., containing from 10 to 45 carbon atoms, and certain
fatty acids, for instance stearic acid, myristic acid or behenic
acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0084] The wax may represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight and
especially from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition. According to one embodiment, the composition
may be free of waxes.
[0085] For the purposes of the invention, the term "pasty compound"
means a compound with a melting point ranging from 25.degree. C. to
60.degree. C. and preferably from 30.degree. C. to 45.degree. C.,
and having a hardness ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa and preferably
from 0.005 to 0.4 MPa.
[0086] Examples of pasty fatty substances that may be mentioned
include PDMSs with pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type
containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, for instance stearyl
dimethicone, and especially those sold by DOW CORNING under the
references DC2503 or DC05514; esters of fatty alcohol or of fatty
acid containing from 20 to 25 carbon atoms (a melting point
especially from 20.degree. C. to 35.degree. C. and/or a viscosity
at 40.degree. C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s), for instance
cholesterol esters such as hydrogenated triglycerides of plant
origin, for instance the hydrogenated castor oil sold under the
name "Thixinr" by the company RHEOX, polyvinyl laurate, arachidyl
propionate, triisostearyl or cetyl citrate, PVP/eicosene copolymer;
isopropyl lanolins with a viscosity from 10 to 25 Pa.s and
preferably from 19 to 25 Pa.s and/or a melting point of 25.degree.
C. to 45.degree. C., and mixtures thereof.
[0087] The composition of the invention may also comprise at least
one alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl dimethicone, for instance the product
sold under the name "Abil wax 2440.RTM." by the company
GOLDSCHMIDT.
[0088] Aqueous Phase
[0089] The composition according to the invention comprises at
least one aqueous phase containing water. The water may be a floral
water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as eau
de VITTEL, eau de LUCAS or eau de LA ROCHE POSAY and/or a spring
water.
[0090] This aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents that
are miscible with water (at 25.degree. C.), for instance the
primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as
glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,
diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, such as C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl
ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, or mono-, di- or
triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] The aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example
sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulphate.
[0092] The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or
water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous
phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners
and surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0093] According to one particular embodiment, the aqueous phase,
and especially water, may be present in the composition according
to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 50% by weight and
especially from 35% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0094] Thickener
[0095] The emulsion according to the invention may also comprise a
fatty-phase thickener. The thickener may be chosen from:
[0096] organomodified clays, which are clays treated with compounds
chosen especially from quaternary amines and tertiary amines.
Organomodified clays that may be mentioned include organomodified
bentonites, such as those sold under the name "Bentone 34" by the
company RHEOX and organomodified hectorites such as those sold
under the names "Bentone 27" and "Bentone 38" by the company
RHEOX;
[0097] hydrophobic fumed silica, which is a fumed silica chemically
surface-modified by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the
number of silanol groups. It is especially possible to substitute
silanol groups with hydrophobic groups.
[0098] The hydrophobic groups may be:
[0099] trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by
treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane.
Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate" according to
the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the
references "AEROSIL R812.RTM." by the company DEGUSSA and
"CAB-O-SIL TS-530.RTM." by the company CABOT;
[0100] dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are
obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of
polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus
treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the
CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the
references "AEROSIL R972.RTM." and "AEROSIL R974.RTM." by the
company DEGUSSA and "CAB-O-SIL TS-610.RTM." and "CAB-O-SIL
TS-720.RTM." by the company CABOT.
[0101] The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be
nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200
nm.
[0102] The fatty-phase thickener may be present in a content
ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and especially from 0.4% to 3% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] Fillers
[0104] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
at least one additional filler other than the polymethyl
methacrylate powders.
[0105] The term "filler" means any colourless particle chosen from
mineral or organic, lamellar, spherical or oblong fillers, which is
chemically inert in the composition.
[0106] Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide
powders, for instance Nylon.RTM. powder, poly-.beta.-alanine powder
and polyethylene powder, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers
(Teflon.RTM.), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer
microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene
chloride/acrylonitrile, such as Expancel.RTM. (NOBEL INDUSTRIE),
acrylic polymer particles, especially of acrylic acid copolymer,
for instance Polytrap.RTM. (DOW CORNING), polyurethane powders,
silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls.RTM. from
TOSHIBA), precipitated calcium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate,
magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite,
hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads.RTM. from MAPRECOS), glass
or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic
carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and
preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate,
magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium
myristate, and mixtures thereof. These fillers may or may not be
surface-treated, especially to make them lipophilic.
[0107] The fillers may be present in the composition according to
the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and
especially from 0.1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0108] Dyestuffs
[0109] The composition may advantageously contain at least one
dyestuff, which may be chosen from the lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic
dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or
dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This dyestuff is
generally present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 40% by weight,
especially from 1% to 35% by weight, in particular from 2% to 25%
by weight and more particularly from 3% to 20% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
[0110] The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17,
DC Green 6, .beta.-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow
11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow. They may
represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.1% to
6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0111] The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or
organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments that
may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated,
zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also iron oxide or chromium
oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and
ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are
carbon black, pigments of D&C type, and lakes based on
cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium. The
pigments may represent from 0.1% to 40% by weight, especially from
1% to 35% by weight and in particular from 2% to 25% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0112] The nacreous pigments may be chosen from white nacreous
pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth
oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with
iron oxides, titanium mica especially with ferric blue or with
chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the
abovementioned type and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth
oxychloride. They may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in
particular from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0113] Advantageously, the emulsion according to the invention
comprises hydrophobic-coated pigments. The hydrophobic-coated
pigments are pigments (such as those mentioned above) that are
surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible
with the fatty phase of the emulsion, especially so that they have
good wettability with the oils of the fatty phase, such that these
treated pigments are satisfactorily dispersed in the fatty
phase.
[0114] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from
silicones, for instance methicones, dimethicones or
perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, for instance stearic acid;
metal soaps, for instance aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt
of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates,
perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkyl-silazane- s,
polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising
perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and amino acids;
N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl
triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
[0115] The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing
from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl,
lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts
of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium,
zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be,
for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0116] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the hydrophobic agents
mentioned above especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1
to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon
atoms.
[0117] Hydrophobic-treated pigments are especially described in
patent application EP-A-1 086 683.
[0118] Rheology
[0119] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention
may have a viscosity, measured at 25.degree. C., at a shear rate of
200 min.sub.-1(200 rpm, i.e. a frequency of 50 Hz), ranging from
0.15 to 0.6 Pa.s (1.5 to 6 poises) and especially ranging from 0.25
to 0.45 Pa.s (2.5 to 4.5 poises). Such a viscosity allows easy
application of the emulsion and allows a homogeneous, uniform,
mark-free makeup effect to be obtained. The viscosity is measured
at 25.degree. C. using a CONTRAVES TV viscometer equipped with a
No. 2 spindle, the measurement being performed after spinning the
spindle for 10 minutes (after which time stabilization of the
viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed), at a
shear rate of 200 min.sup.-1.
[0120] Additives
[0121] The composition of the invention may also comprise any
additional additive usually used in the field under consideration,
such as antioxidants, preserving agents, neutralizers, lipophilic
gelling agents, aqueous-phase gelling agents, dispersants, cosmetic
active agents, fragrances, free-radical scavengers, sequestering
agents and film-forming agents, and mixtures thereof. These
additives may be present in the composition in a proportion of from
0.0005% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.001% to 10% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] As cosmetic active agents that may be used in the invention,
mention may be made of vitamins A, E, C, B.sub.3 and F,
provitamins, for instance D-panthenol, calmatives, for instance
.alpha.-bisabolol, aloe vera and allantoin, plant extracts or
essential oils, protective or restructuring agents, for instance
ceramides, "refreshing" active agents, for instance menthol and its
derivatives, emollients, moisturizers, anti-wrinkle active agents,
essential fatty acids and sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.
[0123] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care
to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount
thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition
according to the invention are not, or are not substantially,
adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
[0124] The composition according to the invention may be
manufactured by the known processes generally used in
cosmetics.
[0125] The composition according to the invention may be a skin
makeup composition, for instance a foundation, a concealer product,
a tinted cream, a body makeup composition, and in particular a
foundation to be applied to the face and/or the neck.
EXAMPLE
[0126] The example given below is presented as a non-limiting
illustration of the field of the invention.
Example 1
[0127]
1 Foundation formulation % by weight 1,3-butylene glycol 10.00
hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium 1.60 chloride
(sold under the name BENTONE 38 V by ELEMENTIS) preserving agents
0.90 water qs 100.00 cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 11.36 isostearyl
neopentanoate 0.50 sodium chloride 0.70 isododecane 13.00
cyclohexadimethylsiloxane 8.00 polydimethylsiloxane (DC 200 fluid 5
cSt sold by 2.00 DOW CORNING) cetyl dimethicone copolyol (sold
under the name 0.80 Abil EM90 by GOLDSCHMIDT) polyglyceryl
isostearate 0.60 isoeicosane 2.00 hexyl laurate 0.60 hollow
polymethyl methacrylate microspheres (sold 2.00 under the name
COVABEAD LH85 by WACKHERR) polymethyl methacrylate powder (sold
under the name 2.00 JURYMER MB1 by NIHON JUNYAKU) oxyethylenated
polydimethylsiloxane (sold under the 4.48 name KF-6017 from
SHIN-ETSU) nacre 1.00 yellow iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl
phosphate, as 2.40 a dispersion in
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane/dimethicone copolyol (sold under the
name FA50DYF by KOBO) brown iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl
phosphate, 0.93 as a dispersion in cyclomethicone/dimethyl
polysiloxane copolyol (sold under the name FA50DRF by KOBO) black
iron oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, as 0.44 a
dispersion in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane/di- methicone copolyol
(sold under the name FA65DBF by KOBO) alumina-treated titanium
oxide coated with perfluoroalkyl 9.54 phosphate, in
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane/dimethicone copolyol (sold under the
name FA65DF by KOBO)
[0128] This foundation applies easily to the skin, is found to have
advantageous slip qualities on the skin, and can be worked easily
so as to distribute the makeup uniformly on the face.
* * * * *