U.S. patent application number 10/492125 was filed with the patent office on 2005-01-06 for low-viscosity opacifiers free from anionic surface-active agents.
Invention is credited to Koester, Josef, Kublik, Heike, Nieendick, Claus.
Application Number | 20050000390 10/492125 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 7702495 |
Filed Date | 2005-01-06 |
United States Patent
Application |
20050000390 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Nieendick, Claus ; et
al. |
January 6, 2005 |
Low-viscosity opacifiers free from anionic surface-active
agents
Abstract
The invention relates to wax-based opacifier preparations
containing (a) at least one amphoteric surfactant, (b) at least one
fatty acid partial glyceride, (c) at least one fatty acid
polyglycol ester and optionally (d) a polyol, with the proviso that
the ratio by weight of (a) to (b) is between 10:1 and 4:1 and the
ratio by weight of (b) to (c) is between 1:1 and 5:1 and the
preparations are free from anionic surfactants.
Inventors: |
Nieendick, Claus; (Krefeld,
DE) ; Koester, Josef; (Duesseldorf, DE) ;
Kublik, Heike; (Kempen, DE) |
Correspondence
Address: |
COGNIS CORPORATION
PATENT DEPARTMENT
300 BROOKSIDE AVENUE
AMBLER
PA
19002
US
|
Family ID: |
7702495 |
Appl. No.: |
10/492125 |
Filed: |
April 8, 2004 |
PCT Filed: |
October 4, 2002 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/EP02/11105 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
106/502 ; 424/59;
424/70.21; 510/119; 510/130; 510/416; 514/286 |
Current CPC
Class: |
C11D 1/90 20130101; C11D
3/2065 20130101; C11D 3/0089 20130101; B01F 17/0085 20130101; B01F
17/0042 20130101; A61K 8/375 20130101; A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61K
8/39 20130101; A61K 8/442 20130101; C11D 3/18 20130101; C11D 1/94
20130101; C11D 1/667 20130101; C11D 1/74 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
106/502 ;
510/119; 510/130; 510/416; 514/286; 424/059; 424/070.21 |
International
Class: |
C10C 001/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Oct 13, 2001 |
DE |
101 50 725.9 |
Claims
1-13. (cancelled).
14. An opacifier composition comprising: (a) an amphoteric
surfactant; (b) a fatty acid partial glyceride; (c) a fatty acid
polyglycol ester; (d) a wax component; and (e) optionally, up to
about 10% by weight of a polyol, and wherein (a) and (b) are
present in the composition in a ratio by weight of from about 10:1
to 4:1, and (b) and (c) are present in the composition in a ratio
by weight of from about 1:1 to 5:1.
15. The composition of claim 14 wherein (a) and (b) are present in
the composition in a ratio by weight of from about 7:1 to 5:1, and
(b) and (c) are present in the composition in a ratio by weight of
from about 2:1 to 4:1.
16. The composition of claim 14 wherein (a) is present in the
composition in an amount of from about 1 to 25% by weight, based on
the weight of the composition.
17. The composition of claim 14 wherein (b) is present in the
composition in an amount of from about 0.1 to 6% by weight, based
on the weight of the composition.
18. The composition of claim 14 wherein (c) is present in the
composition in an amount of from about 0.1 to 6% by weight, based
on the weight of the composition.
19. The composition of claim 14 wherein (d) is present in the
composition in an amount of from about 10 to 35% by weight, based
on the weight of the composition.
20. The composition of claim 14 wherein the composition has a
solids content of from about 20 to 50% by weight, based on the
weight of the composition.
21. The composition of claim 14 wherein the composition has a
viscosity of from about 2,000 to 6,000 mPas.
22. The composition of claim 14 wherein the composition has a
particle size distribution such that at least 85% of the particles
contained therein have a diameter of less than 15 .mu.m.
23. The composition of claim 14 wherein particles present in the
composition have a mean particle diameter of less than 12
.mu.m.
24. A process for making an opaque composition comprising: (a)
providing an amphoteric surfactant; (b) providing a fatty acid
partial glyceride; (c) providing a fatty acid polyglycol ester; (d)
providing a wax component; (e) providing, optionally, up to about
10% by weight of a polyol; and (f) mixing (a)-(e) to form the
composition, and wherein (a) and (b) are present in the composition
in a ratio by weight of from about 10:1 to 4:1, and (b) and (c) are
present in the composition in a ratio by weight of from about 1:1
to 5:1.
25. The process of claim 24 wherein (a) and (b) are present in the
composition in a ratio by weight of from about 7:1 to 5:1, and (b)
and (c) are present in the composition in a ratio by weight of from
about 2:1 to 4:1.
26. The process of claim 24 wherein (a) is present in the
composition in an amount of from about 1 to 25% by weight, based on
the weight of the composition.
27. The process of claim 24 wherein (b) is present in the
composition in an amount of from about 0.1 to 6% by weight, based
on the weight of the composition.
28. The process of claim 24 wherein (c) is present in the
composition in an amount of from about 0.1 to 6% by weight, based
on the weight of the composition.
29. The process of claim 24 wherein (d) is present in the
composition in an amount of from about 10 to 35% by weight, based
on the weight of the composition.
30. The process of claim 24 wherein the composition has a solids
content of from about 20 to 50% by weight, based on the weight of
the composition.
31. The process of claim 24 wherein the composition has a viscosity
of from about 2,000 to 6,000 mpas.
32. The process of claim 24 wherein the composition has a particle
size distribution such that at least 85% of the particles contained
therein have a diameter of less than 15 .mu.m.
33. The process of claim 24 wherein particles present in the
composition have a mean particle diameter of less than 12 .mu.m.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] This invention relates to opacifiers containing waxes,
amphoteric surfactants, fatty acid partial glycerides, fatty acid
polyglycol esters and optionally polyols in a certain ratio by
weight, but no anionic surfactants, and to their use as
opacifiers.
PRIOR ART
[0002] In the formulation of a number of surface-active household
products, such as dishwashing detergents for example, or cosmetic
preparations, such as hair shampoos for example, particular
importance is attributed to the products being clear and not
clouding, even in storage. In other cases, cloudy products with a
shimmering effect known as pearlescence are required for the same
purpose. A third group of products is made with a non-shimmering
opaque whiteness using so-called opacifiers.
[0003] Opacifiers are fine-particle dispersions of polymers or
solids which, apart from water and/or a polyol (for example
glycerol), largely contain only a wax and a suitable emulsifier.
Known opacifiers are mainly based on copolymers based on acrylic or
methacrylic acid and styrene and are not biodegradable. German
patent DE 19511572 C2 describes low-viscosity opacifier
concentrates based on waxes, sugar surfactants and partial
glycerides. Although these concentrates are readily biodegradable,
they have high viscosities and are in need of improvement so far as
their particle fineness is concerned. In addition, formulations
containing sugar surfactants show relatively poor stability in
storage at elevated temperature, particularly in regard to color
quality and stability.
[0004] Accordingly, the problem addressed by the invention was to
provide opacifier preparations or concentrates based on waxes which
would be highly concentrated but which would have distinctly
reduced mean particle sizes by comparison with the prior art. They
would have relatively low viscosities so that they would be easy to
process and would be biodegradable. In addition, the preparations
according to the invention would produce more intense whiteness,
but no pearlescence, in aqueous surfactant solutions and, by virtue
of their particle size, would be sufficiently stable in storage,
even at elevated temperatures.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0005] The present invention relates to wax-based opacifier
preparations containing
[0006] (a) at least one amphoteric surfactant,
[0007] (b) at least one fatty acid partial glyceride,
[0008] (c) at least one fatty acid polyglycol ester and
optionally
[0009] (d) a polyol,
[0010] with the proviso that the ratio by weight of (a) to (b) is
between 10:1 and 4:1 and the ratio by weight of (b) to (c) is
between 1:1 and 5:1 and the preparations are free from anionic
surfactants.
[0011] In one particular embodiment of the invention, the ratio by
weight of component (a) to component (b) is between 7:1 and 5:1 and
the ratio by weight of component (b) to component (c) is between
2:1 and 4:1.
[0012] It has surprisingly been found that mixtures based on waxes
with amphoteric surfactants, partial glycerides, fatty acid
polyglycol esters and optionally polyols in a selected ratio by
weight give products which have a particularly small mean particle
sizes by comparison with the prior art. Accordingly, the required
white opaque effect is also intensified by these particularly
fine-particle preparations and no pearlescence is formed. In
addition, these products have particularly low viscosities, are
biodegradable, show good flow and pumping properties, are
sufficiently stable in storage, even at temperatures above
30.degree. C., and are compatible with cationic formulation
components. These advantageous properties can only be achieved for
opacifier systems free from anionic surfactants.
[0013] Amphoteric Surfactants
[0014] The preparations according to the invention may contain
amphoteric surfactants such as, for example, alkyl betaines, alkyl
amidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium
betaines and sulfobetaines. Betaines are preferably used. Betaines
are known surfactants which are mainly produced by
carboxyalkylation, preferably carboxymethylation, of aminic
compounds. The starting materials are preferably condensed with
halocarboxylic acids or salts thereof, more particularly with
sodium chloroacetate, 1 mole of salt being formed per mole of
betaine. The addition of unsaturated carboxylic acids, for example
acrylic acid, is also possible. Particulars of the nomenclature
and, in particular, the distinction between betaines and Agenuine
amphoteric surfactants can be found in the article by U. Ploog in
Seifen-le-Fette-Wachse, 198, 373 (1982). Other reviews of this
subject have been published, for example, by A. O'Lenick et al. in
HAPPI, Nov. 70 (1986), by S. Holzman et al. in Tens. Surf. Det. 23,
309 (1986), by R. Bibo et al. in Soap Cosm. Chem. Spec., Apr. 46
(1990) and by P. Ellis et al. in Euro Cosm. 1, 14 (1994). Examples
of suitable betaines are the carboxyalkylation products of
secondary and, in particular, tertiary amines corresponding to
formula (I): 1
[0015] in which R.sup.1 stands for alkyl and/or alkenyl groups
containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R.sup.2 stands for hydrogen or
alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R.sup.3 stands for
alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n is a number of 1 to
6 and X is an alkali metal and/or alkaline earth metal or ammonium.
Typical examples are the carboxymethylation products of hexyl
methyl amine, hexyl dimethyl amine, octyl dimethyl amine, decyl
dimethyl amine, dodecyl methyl amine, dodecyl dimethyl amine,
dodecyl ethyl methyl amine, C.sub.12/14 cocoalkyl dimethyl amine,
myristyl dimethyl amine, cetyl dimethyl amine, stearyl dimethyl
amine, stearyl ethyl methyl amine, oleyl dimethyl amine,
C.sub.16/18 tallow alkyl dimethyl amine and technical mixtures
thereof.
[0016] Other suitable betaines are carboxyalkylation products of
amido-amines corresponding to formula (II): 2
[0017] in which R.sup.6CO is an aliphatic acyl group containing 6
to 22 carbon atoms and 0 or 1 to 3 double bonds, m is a number of 1
to 3, R.sup.4 represents hydrogen or C.sub.1-4 alkyl groups,
R.sup.5 represents C.sub.1-4 alkyl groups, n is a number of 1 to 6
and X is an alkali metal and/or alkaline earth metal or ammonium.
Typical examples are reaction products of fatty acids containing 6
to 22 carbon atoms, namely caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric
acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid,
stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic
acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic
acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical
mixtures thereof, with N,N-dimethyl aminoethyl amine, N,N-dimethyl
aminopropyl amine, N,N-diethyl aminoethyl amine and N,N-diethyl
aminopropyl amine which are condensed with sodium chloroacetate. It
is preferred to use a condensation product of C.sub.8/18 cocofatty
acid-N,N-dimethyl aminopropyl amide with sodium chloroacetate.
[0018] Other suitable starting materials for the betaines to be
used in accordance with the invention are imidazolines
corresponding to formula (III): 3
[0019] in which R.sup.7 is an alkyl group containing 5 to21 carbon
atoms, R.sup.6 is a hydroxyl group, an OCOR.sup.5 or NHCOR.sup.5
group and m=2 or 3. Imidazolines are also known compounds which may
be obtained, for example, by cyclizing condensation of 1 or 2 moles
of fatty acid with polyfunctional amines, for example aminoethyl
ethanolamine (AEEA) or diethylene triamine. The corresponding
carboxyalkylation products are mixtures of different open-chain
betaines. Typical examples are condensation products of the
above-mentioned fatty acids with AEEA, preferably imidazolines
based on lauric acid or--again--C.sub.12/14 cocofatty acid which
are subsequently betainized with sodium chloroacetate.
[0020] Particularly suitable surfactants are the so-called
betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for
example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate,
N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example
cocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and
2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to
18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethyl
hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide
derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is
particularly preferred. Betaines distinguished by high purity are
particularly preferred; in other words, low-salt betaines with a
maximum salt content of 13% by weight, preferably 11% by weight and
more particularly 7% by weight--based on active substance--are
used. The corresponding salt is dependent on the production of the
amphoteric surfactant; in the most common case, it is sodium
chloride. In a particularly preferred embodiment, these betaines
also have a low content of free fatty acids of at most 4% by weight
and preferably at most 3% by weight, based on active substance.
[0021] The preparations according to the invention may contain the
amphoteric surfactants in quantities of 1 to 25, preferably 5 to 20
and more particularly 10 to 15% by weight, based on the final
composition.
[0022] Fatty Acid Partial Glycerides
[0023] Fatty acid partial glycerides, i.e. monoglycerides,
diglycerides and technical mixtures thereof may still contain small
quantities of di- and triglycerides from their production. The
partial glycerides preferably correspond to formula (IV): 4
[0024] in which R.sup.8CO is a linear or branched, saturated and/or
unsaturated acyl group containing 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18
carbon atoms, R.sup.9 and R.sup.10 independently of one another
have the same meaning as R.sup.8CO or represent OH and the sum
(m+n+p) is 0 or a number of 1 to 100 and preferably 5 to 25, with
the proviso that at least one of the two substituents R.sup.9 and
R.sup.10 represents OH. Typical examples are mono- and/or
diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic
acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid,
palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid,
oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic
acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid
and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof. Technical lauric
acid glycerides, palmitic acid glycerides, stearic acid glycerides,
isostearic acid glycerides, oleic acid glycerides, behenic acid
glycerides and/or erucic acid glycerides which have a monoglyceride
content of 50 to 95% by weight and preferably 60 to 90% by weight
are preferably used. Relatively long-chain partial glycerides, for
example based on oleic acid or stearic acid, especially mixtures of
glycerides based on saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, are
particularly suitable.
[0025] The preparations according to the invention may contain the
fatty acid partial glycerides in quantities of 0.1 to 6, preferably
0.5 to 5 and more preferably 1 to 3% by weight, based on the final
composition.
[0026] Fatty Acid Polyglycol Esters
[0027] Polyethylene glycol glyceryl fatty acid esters of fatty
acids containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and 3 to 40, preferably 4 to
10, polyethylene glycol units are preferably used as the fatty acid
polyglycol esters.
[0028] The preparations according to the invention may contain the
fatty acid polyglycol esters in quantities of 0.1 to 6, preferably
0.2 to 2 and more particularly 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the
final composition.
[0029] Polyols
[0030] Polyols which are optional component in the context of the
invention preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two
hydroxyl groups. Typical Examples are
[0031] glycerol;
[0032] alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol,
diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene
glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of
100 to 1000 dalton;
[0033] technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of
self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as, for example, technical
diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by
weight;
[0034] methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol
ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol
and dipentaerythritol;
[0035] lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8
carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl
glucoside;
[0036] sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example
sorbitol or mannitol,
[0037] sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose
or sucrose;
[0038] amino sugars, for example glucamine.
[0039] Preferred polyols are glycerol and propylene glycol. They
are used in quantities of 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8%
by weight and more particularly 1 to 5% by weight, based on the
final composition.
[0040] Waxes
[0041] Basically, the choice of the waxes is not critical. Typical
examples are alkylene glycol fatty acid esters, wax esters,
hydrogenated triglycerides, saturated fatty alcohols containing 16
to 18 carbon atoms, ethylene oxide adducts with C.sub.16-18 fatty
acids and/or paraffin waxes.
[0042] Alkylene Glycol Fatty Acid Esters
[0043] In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the waxes
used are alkylene glycol fatty acid esters corresponding to formula
(V):
R.sup.11CO--O-[A]-O--R.sup.12 (V)
[0044] in which R.sup.11CO is an aliphatic acyl group containing 6
to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and/or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, R.sup.12
has the same meaning as R.sup.11CO or is a hydroxy group and A is a
linear or branched, optionally hydroxysubstituted alkylene group
containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
[0045] These waxes are preferably esters of ethylene glycol or
propylene glycol with caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic
acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid,
palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid,
oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic
acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid
and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof. The use of ethylene
glycol distearate is particularly preferred.
[0046] The preparations according to the invention may contain the
waxes, preferably alkylene glycol fatty acid esters, in quantities
of 10 to 35, preferably 12 to 28 and more particularly 15 to 25% by
weight, based on the final composition.
[0047] Commercial Applications
[0048] The opacifier preparations according to the invention have a
solids content of preferably 20 to 50, more preferably 30 to 45 and
most preferably 35 to 42% by weight, based on the final
composition. Accordingly, the present invention also relates to
their use as opacifiers, preferably in cosmetic preparations.
[0049] They are distinguished by low viscosities, preferably in the
range from 2,000 to 6,000 mPas and more particularly in the range
from 3,000 to 5,000 mPas (Brookfield: 23.degree. C., spindle 5, 10
r.p.m.), by good flow and pumping properties and by particular
particle fineness of the crystals in the dispersion. The particular
particle fineness is produced by a particle size distribution where
at least 85, preferably 90, more preferably 95 and most preferably
99.9% of the particles have a diameter of <15 .mu.m. The mean
particle diameter is preferably <12, more preferably <10 and
most preferably <7 .mu.m. The choice of fatty acid partial
glycerides with a melting point above 30.degree. C. and fatty acid
polyol esters with a melting point below 25.degree. C. has proved
to be particularly suitable in regard to opacifying behavior and
particle distribution.
[0050] Another advantage of the opacifier preparations according to
the invention is their high stability to sedimentation in the event
of prolonged storage. When used in quantities of 0.1 to 12,
preferably 0.5 to 6 and more particularly 1 to 3.5% by weight in
aqueous surface-active compositions, such as manual detergents for
example, or in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations, such as
for example hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths,
oral and dental care products, creams, gels, lotions,
aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions and the like, the opacifier
preparations according to the invention produce a permanent,
uniform and--compared with the prior art--particularly intensive
white opaqueness without any pearlescence.
[0051] The choice of the surfactants in aqueous solutions of which
the preparations according to the invention produce a white
opaqueness is very important because the addition of anionic
surfactants produces a distinct increase in viscosity and the
required particle fineness and hence the particularly intensive
white opaqueness fail to appear. Instead pearlescence is generally
produced because relatively large particles are also present
through the use of anionic surfactants. Accordingly, the opacifiers
can only be used in aqueous solutions of nonionic and/or amphoteric
or zwitterionic surfactants. They are preferably used in aqueous
solutions containing amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
[0052] The surfactant mixtures according to the invention may
additionally contain other surfactants, oil components,
emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency factors, thickeners,
superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds,
fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV
protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants,
antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect
repellents, self-tanning agents, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting
agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils,
dyes and the like as further auxiliaries and additives.
[0053] Surfactants
[0054] Nonionic and/or cationic surfactants may be present as
surfactants. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty
alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty
acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty
amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers
and mixed formals, optionally partly oxidized glucuronic acid
derivatives, fatty acid-N-alkyl glucamides, protein hydrolyzates
(particularly wheat-based vegetable products), sugar esters,
sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic
surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a
conventional homolog distribution, although they preferably have a
narrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic
surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, for example dimethyl
distearyl ammonium chloride, and esterquats, more particularly
quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. The surfactants
mentioned are all known compounds. Information on their structure
and production can be found in relevant synoptic works, cf. for
example J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products",
Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pages 54 to 124 or J. Falbe (ed.),
"Katalysatoren, Tenside und Mineraloladditive (Catalysts,
Surfactants and Mineral Oil Additives)", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart,
1978, pages 123-217.
[0055] Oil Components
[0056] Suitable oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols
based on fatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 and preferably 8 to 10
carbon atoms, esters of linear C.sub.6-22 fatty acids with linear
or branched C.sub.6-22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched
C.sub.6-13 carboxylic acids with linear or branched C.sub.6-22
fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl
palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl
oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl
palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl
behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate,
stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl
behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl
palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl
oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate,
oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate,
oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl
palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate,
behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl
palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate,
erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of
linear C.sub.6-22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, more
particularly 2-ethyl hexanol, esters of C.sub.18-38 alkyl
hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C.sub.6-22 fatty
alcohols (cf. DE 19756377 A1), more especially Dioctyl Malate,
esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric
alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol)
and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C.sub.6-10 fatty
acids, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C.sub.6-18
fatty acids (cf. EP 97100434), esters of C.sub.6-22 fatty alcohols
and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, more
particularly benzoic acid, esters of C.sub.2-12 dicarboxylic acids
with linear or branched alcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms or
polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups,
vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted
cyclohexanes, linear and branched C.sub.6-22 fatty alcohol
carbonates, for example Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol.RTM. CC),
Guerbet carbonates based on C.sub.6-18 and preferaly C.sub.8-10
fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched
C.sub.6-22 alcohols (for example Finsolv.RTM. TN), linear or
branched, symmetrical or nonsymmetrical dialkyl ethers containing 6
to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example Dicaprylyl Ether
(Cetiol.RTM. OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid
esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicone, silicon
methicones) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, for
example squalane, squalene or dialkyl cyclohexanes.
[0057] Emulsifiers
[0058] Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants
from at least one of the following groups:
[0059] products of the addition of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide
and/or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear C.sub.8-22 fatty
alcohols, C.sub.12-22 fatty acids and alkyl phenols containing 8 to
15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines containing 8 to
22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
[0060] alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides containing 8 to 22
carbon atoms in the alk(en)yl group and ethoxylated analogs
thereof;
[0061] products of the addition of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide
onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;
[0062] products of the addition of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide
onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;
[0063] partial esters of sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or
saturated, branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms
and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms and
addition products thereof with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
[0064] partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of
self-condensation 2 to 8), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol,
sugar alcohols (for example sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for
example methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and
polyglucosides (for example cellulose) with saturated and/or
unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22
carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18
carbon atoms and addition products thereof with 1 to 30 moles of
ethylene oxide;
[0065] mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid
and fatty alcohol according to DE 11 65 574 PS and/or mixed esters
of fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and
polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol,
[0066] mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or
tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof,
[0067] wool wax alcohols,
[0068] polysiloxane/polyalkyl/polyether copolymers and
corresponding derivatives,
[0069] block copolymers, for example Polyethylene Glycol-30
Dipolyhydroxystearate;
[0070] polymer emulsifiers, for example Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2)
from Goodrich;
[0071] polyalkylene glycols and
[0072] glycerol carbonate.
[0073] The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene
oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or castor oil
are known commercially available products. They are homolog
mixtures of which the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to
the ratio between the quantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene
oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried
out. C.sub.12-18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition
products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known as refatting
agents for cosmetic formulations from DE 2024051 PS.
[0074] Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides, their production and
their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in
particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary
C.sub.8-18 alcohols. So far as the glycoside unit is concerned,
both monoglycosides where a cyclic sugar unit is attached to the
fatty alcohol by a glycoside bond and oligomeric glycosides with a
degree of oligomerization of preferably up to about 8 are suitable.
The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value to which
the homolog distribution typical of such technical products
corresponds.
[0075] Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate,
sorbitan sesqui-isostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan
triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate,
sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate,
sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate,
sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricinoleate, sorbitan
diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan
monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan
dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxy-stearate, sorbitan
monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate,
sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate,
sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate,
sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and
technical mixtures thereof.
[0076] Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 moles of
ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also
suitable.
[0077] Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls.RTM. PGPH),
Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform.RTM. TGI), Polyglyceryl-4
Isostearate (Isolan.RTM. GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate,
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan.RTM. PDI),
Poly-glyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care.RTM. 450),
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina.RTM.), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
(Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether
(Chimexane.RTM. NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor.RTM. GS
32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul.RTM. WOL 1403),
Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of
other suitable polyolesters are the mono-, di- and triesters of
trimethylol propane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, cocofatty
acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid,
behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30 moles of
ethylene oxide.
[0078] Fats and Waxes
[0079] Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. solid or
liquid, vegetable or animal products which consist essentially of
mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Suitable waxes are
inter alia natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax,
carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax,
rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax,
shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat,
ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes and
microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for
example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes
and synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and
polyethylene glycol waxes. Besides the fats, other suitable
additives are fat-like substances, such as lecithins and
phospholipids. Lecithins are known among experts as
glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol,
phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Accordingly,
lecithins are also frequently referred to by experts as
phosphatidyl cholines (PCs) and correspond to the following general
formula: 5
[0080] where R typically represents linear aliphatic hydrocarbon
radicals containing 15 to 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis-double
bonds. Examples of natural lecithins are the kephalins which are
also known as phosphatidic acids and which are derivatives of
1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-- phosphoric acids. By contrast,
phospholipids are generally understood to be mono- and preferably
diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerophosphates) which
are normally classed as fats. Sphingosines and sphingolipids are
also suitable.
[0081] Consistency Factors and Thickeners
[0082] The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or
hydroxyfatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18
carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or
hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl
oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methyl gluc-amides of the same
chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is
preferably used. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil
types(hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, more especially
xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses,
carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxy-ethyl cellulose, also
relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and
diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopols.RTM.
and Pemulens [Goodrich] or Synthalens.RTM. [Sigma]; Keltrols from
Kelco; Sepigels from Seppic; Salcares from Allied Colloids),
polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl
pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty
acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example
pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol
ethoxylates or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes, such as
sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
[0083] Superfatting Agents
[0084] Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as,
for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or
acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid
esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid
alkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.
[0085] Stabilizers
[0086] Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium,
aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as
stabilizers.
[0087] Polymers
[0088] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic
cellulose derivatives such as, for example, the quaternized
hydroxyethyl cellulose obtainable from Amerchol under the name of
Polymer JR 400, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium
salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl
imidazole polymers such as, for example, Luviquat.RTM. (BASF),
condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized
collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryidimonium
Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat.RTM. L, Grunau),
quaternized wheat poly-peptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic
silicone polymers such as, for example, Amodimethicone, copolymers
of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine
(Cartaretine.RTM., Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with
dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat.RTM. 550, Chemviron),
polyaminopolyamides as described, for example, in FR 2252840 A and
crosslinked water-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin
derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally
in microcrystalline distribution, condensation products of
dihaloalkyls, for example dibromobutane, with bis-dialkylamines,
for example bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum such
as, for example, Jaguar.RTM.CBS, Jaguar.RTM.C-17, Jaguar.RTM.C-16
of Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for
example, Mirapol.RTM. A-15, Mirapol.RTM. AD-1, Mirapol.RTM. AZ-1 of
Miranol.
[0089] Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic
polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers,
vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl
maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleic
anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and
polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamido-propyl
trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers,
octylacryl-amide/methyl methacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl
methacrylate/2-hydroxy-propyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl
pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl
pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam
terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and
silicones. Other suitable polymers and thickeners can be found in
Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 108, May 1993, pages 95 et
seq.
[0090] Silicone Compounds
[0091] Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl
polysiloxanes, methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and
amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-,
glycoside- and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be
both liquid and resin-like at room temperature. Other suitable
silicone compounds are simethicones which are mixtures of
dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300
dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. A detailed
overview of suitable volatile silicones can be found in Todd et al.
in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
[0092] UV Protection Factors and Antioxidants
[0093] UV protection factors in the context of the invention are,
for example, organic substances (light filters) which are liquid or
crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing
ultraviolet or infrared radiation and of releasing the energy
absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.
UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The following are
examples of oil-soluble substances:
[0094] 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and
derivatives thereof, for example 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor as
described in EP 0693471 B1;
[0095] 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably
4-(dimethylamino)-benzo- ic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester,
4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and
4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid amyl ester;
[0096] esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic
acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester,
4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic
acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene);
[0097] esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic
acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzyl ester,
salicylic acid homomenthyl ester;
[0098] derivatives of benzophenone, preferably
2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-ph- enone,
2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone,
2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy- benzophenone;
[0099] esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably
4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
[0100] triazine derivatives such as, for example,
2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carb- o-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine
and Octyl Triazone as described in EP 0818450 A1or Dioctyl Butamido
Triazone (Uvasorb.RTM. HEB);
[0101] propane-1,3-diones such as, for example,
1-(4-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(-
4'-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione;
[0102] ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decane derivatives as described in EP
0694521 B1.
[0103] Suitable Water-Soluble Substances are
[0104] 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali metal,
alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and
glucammonium salts thereof;
[0105] sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably
2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts
thereof;
[0106] sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as,
for example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene sulfonic acid
and 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)-sulfonic acid and salts
thereof.
[0107] Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of
benzoyl methane such as, for example,
1-(4'-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl- )-propane-1,3-dione,
4-tert.butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsole.RTM. 1789) or
1-phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and the eneamine
compounds described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B
filters may of course also be used in the form of mixtures.
Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of
benzoylmethane, for example 4-tert.-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl
methane (Parsol.RTM. 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic
acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene) in combination with esters of
cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester
and/or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and/or 4-methoxycinnamic
acid isoamyl ester. These combinations are advantageously combined
with water-soluble filters such as, for example,
2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sufonic acid and alkali metal, alkaline
earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and
glucammonium salts.
[0108] Besides the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble
light-blocking pigments, i.e. finely dispersed metal oxides or
salts, may also be used for this purpose. Examples of suitable
metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
and also oxides of iron, zirconium oxide, silicon, manganese,
aluminium and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talcum),
barium sulfate and zinc stearate may be used as salts. The oxides
and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and
skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles
should have a mean diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between
5 and 50 nm and more preferably between 15 and 30 nm. They may be
spherical in shape although ellipsoidal particles or other
non-spherical particles may also be used. The pigments may also be
surface-treated, i.e. hydrophilicized or hydrophobicized. Typical
examples are coated titanium dioxides, for example Titandioxid T
805 (Degussa) and Eusolex.RTM. T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic
coating materials are, above all, silicones and, among these,
especially trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. So-called micro-
or nanopigments are preferably used in sun protection products.
Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Other suitable UV filters
can be found in P. Finkel's review in SFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996)
and in Parfumerie und Kosmetik 3 (1999), pages 11 et seq.
[0109] Besides the two groups of primary sun protection factors
mentioned above, secondary sun protection factors of the
antioxidant type may also be used. Secondary sun protection factors
of the antioxidant type interrupt the photochemical reaction chain
which is initiated when UV rays penetrate into the skin. Typical
examples are amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine,
tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example
urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as
D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof
(for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (for example
.alpha.-carotene, .beta.-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives
thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and
derivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid),
aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example
thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and
glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl,
palmitoyl, oleyl, .gamma.-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
thereof) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate,
distearyl-thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives
thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides
and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (for example butionine
sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butionine sulfones, penta-,
hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very small compatible
dosages (for example pmole to .mu.mole/kg), also (metal) chelators
for example .alpha.-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid,
lactoferrine), .alpha.-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid,
lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts,
bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof,
unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (for example
.gamma.-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and
derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives
thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof (for example ascorbyl
palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols
and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and
derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin
resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, .alpha.-glycosyl
rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butyl
hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid,
nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and
derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof,
Superoxid-Dismutase, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO,
ZnSO.sub.4), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenium
methionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example
stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these
active substances suitable for the purposes of the invention
(salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides
and lipids).
[0110] Biogenic Agents
[0111] In the context of the invention, biogenic agents are, for
example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate,
ascorbic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol,
panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides,
essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
[0112] Deodorants and Germ Inhibitors
[0113] Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body
odors. Body odors are formed through the action of skin bacteria on
apocrine perspiration which results in the formation of
unpleasant-smelling degradation products. Accordingly, deodorants
contain active principles which act as germ inhibitors, enzyme
inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers. Basically, suitable
germ inhibitors are any substances which act against gram-positive
bacteria such as, for example, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and salts and
esters thereof, N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4-dichlorophe- nyl)-urea,
2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenylether (triclosan),
4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol,
2,2'-methylene-bis-(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol),
3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)-phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol,
3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-propane-1,2-diol, 3-iodo-2-propinyl butyl
carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC),
antibacterial perfumes, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil,
menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate,
glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol
monocaprate (DMC), salicylic acid-N-alkylamides such as, for
example, salicylic acid-n-octyl amide or salicylic acid-n-decyl
amide.
[0114] Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase
inhibitors. Esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates,
such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate,
tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen.RTM.
CAT). Esterase inhibitors inhibit enzyme activity and thus reduce
odor formation. Other esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or
phosphates such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol,
campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate,
dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for example glutaric acid,
glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic
acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester,
malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic
acids and esters thereof, for example citric acid, malic acid,
tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc
glycinate.
[0115] Suitable odor absorbers are substances which are capable of
absorbing and largely retaining the odor-forming compounds. They
reduce the partial pressure of the individual components and thus
also reduce the rate at which they spread. An important requirement
in this regard is that perfumes must remain unimpaired. Odor
absorbers are not active against bacteria. They contain, for
example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special perfumes
of largely neutral odor known to the expert as "fixateurs" such as,
for example, extracts of ladanum or styrax or certain abietic acid
derivatives as their principal component. Odor maskers are perfumes
or perfume oils which, besides their odor-masking function, impart
their particular perfume note to the deodorants. Suitable perfume
oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic
fragrances. Natural fragrances include the extracts of blossoms,
stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and
grasses, needles and branches, resins and balsams. Animal raw
materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical
synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether,
aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume
compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, p-tert.butyl
cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl
benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl
propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example,
benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linear
alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal,
citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal,
lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are the ionones
and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol,
citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl
alcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes
and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different
perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeable fragrance.
Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low
volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are
sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon
leaf oil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil,
olibanum oil, galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The
following are preferably used either individually or in the form of
mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral,
citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, .alpha.-hexylcinnamaldehyde,
geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene
Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin
oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavendin oil,
clary oil, .beta.-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl
salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl,
iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate,
rose oxide, romillat, irotyl and floramat.
[0116] Antiperspirants reduce perspiration and thus counteract
underarm wetness and body odor by influencing the activity of the
eccrine sweat glands. Aqueous or water-free antiperspirant
formulations typically contain the following ingredients:
[0117] astringent active principles,
[0118] oil components,
[0119] nonionic emulsifiers,
[0120] co-emulsifiers,
[0121] consistency factors,
[0122] auxiliaries in the form of, for example, thickeners or
complexing agents and/or
[0123] non-aqueous solvents such as, for example, ethanol,
propylene glycol and/or glycerol.
[0124] Suitable astringent active principles of antiperspirants
are, above all, salts of aluminium, zirconium or zinc. Suitable
antihydrotic agents of this type are, for example, aluminium
chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrate,
aluminium sesquichlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for
example with 1,2-propylene glycol, aluminium hydroxyallantoinate,
aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate,
aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium
pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for example with
amino acids, such as glycine. Oil-soluble and water-soluble
auxiliaries typically encountered in antiperspirants may also be
present in relatively small amounts. Oil-soluble auxiliaries such
as these include, for example,
[0125] inflammation-inhibiting, skin-protecting or
pleasant-smelling essential oils,
[0126] synthetic skin-protecting agents and/or
[0127] oil-soluble perfume oils.
[0128] Typical water-soluble additives are, for example,
preservatives, water-soluble perfumes, pH regulators, for example
buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, for example
water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as, for example,
xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high
molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
[0129] Film Formers
[0130] Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan,
microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl
pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers
of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives,
collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar
compounds.
[0131] Antidandruff Agents
[0132] Suitable antidandruff agents are Pirocton Olamin
(1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridinone
monoethanolamine salt), Baypival.RTM. (Climbazole),
Ketoconazol.RTM. (4-acetyl-1-{4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl)
r-2-(1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl)-1,3-d-
ioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl}-piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol,
selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol
sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar
distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with
hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate
Na salt, Lamepon.RTM. UD (protein/undecylenic acid condensate),
zinc pyrithione, aluminium pyrithione and magnesium
pyrithione/dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.
[0133] Swelling Agents
[0134] Suitable swelling agents for aqueous phases are
montmorillonites, clay minerals, Pemulen and alkyl-modified
Carbopol types (Goodrich). Other suitable polymers and swelling
agents can be found in R. Lochhead's review in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95
(1993).
[0135] Insect Repellents
[0136] Suitable insect repellents are N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide,
pentane-1,2-diol or Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate.
[0137] Self-Tanning Agents and Depigmenting Agents
[0138] A suitable self-tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone. Suitable
tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and are
used in depigmenting agents are, for example, arbutin, kojic acid,
coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
[0139] Preservatives
[0140] Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol,
formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the
other classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of
the Kosmetikverordnung (Cosmetics Directive).
[0141] Perfume Oils
[0142] Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic
perfumes. Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily,
lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves
(geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander,
caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots
(nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods
(pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and
grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches
(spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum,
elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials,
for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical synthetic
perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde,
ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds
of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate,
p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl
carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl
formate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate,
styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for
example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example,
the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral,
citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde,
hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable
ketones are the ionones, .alpha.-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl
ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol,
isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol.
The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However,
it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfume compounds
which, together, produce an agreeable fragrance. Other suitable
perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatility which
are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil,
camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil,
lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil,
galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are
preferably used either individually or in the form of mixtures:
bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol,
phenylethyl alcohol, .alpha.-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl
acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan,
indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil,
allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavendin oil, clary oil,
.beta.-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate,
Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma,
phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide,
romillat, irotyl and floramat.
[0143] Dyes
[0144] Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and
approved for cosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the
publication "Kosmetische Fbemittel" of the Farbstoffkommission der
Deutschen Forschungs-gemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984,
pages 81 to 106. These dyes are normally used in concentrations of
0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
[0145] The total percentage content of auxiliaries and additives
may be from 1 to 50% by weight and is preferably from 5 to 40% by
weight, based on the particular formulation. The preparations may
be produced by standard hot or cold processes and are preferably
produced by the phase inversion temperature method.
EXAMPLES
[0146] The wax, the fatty acid polyol esters (c), partial
glycerides (b) and the amphoteric surfactants (a) were mixed in
various ratios by weight and the particle fineness was determined
by determining the particle size distribution in .mu.m and the mean
particle diameter in .mu.m by laser diffraction (Mastersizer 2000;
see product specification of MALVERN INSTRUMENTS GmbH, Herrenberg,
Germany). Viscosity was measured by the Brookfield method
(23.degree. C., spindle 5, 10 r.p.m., mPas). The results are set
out in Table 1.
1TABLE 1 Cosmetic preparations (quantities in % by weight active
substance, based on the final composition) Composition (INCI) 1 2 3
4 C1 C2 C3 C4 Wax 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 25 Cutina .RTM. AGS
Ethyleneglycol Distearate Cocoamidopropyl 10 12 14 15 10 10 10 12
Betaine (a) Cetiol .RTM. HE (c) 0.5 1.0 0.5 1.0 -- 1.1 1.0 1.0 PEG
7 Glyceryl Cocoate Monomuls .RTM. 90- -- 1.0 -- 1.25 -- -- 0.5 1.0
O18 (b) Glyceryl Oleate Monomuls .RTM. 90- 1.5 -- 2.5 -- 1.3 0.9 --
-- L12 (b) Glyceryl Laurate Cutina .RTM. GMS (b) -- 1.0 -- 1.25 --
-- 3.5 1.0 Glyceryl Stearate Sodium lauryl -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 2.5
ether sulfate + 2 EO Glycerol 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Benzoic acid 0.5 0.5
0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water to 100 Ratio by weight a:b 6.6:1 6:1
5.6:1 5:1 7.6:1 11:1 2.5:1 6:1 Ratio by weight b:c 3:1 2:1 4:1
2.5:1 1.2:1 4:1 2:1 Viscosity 3000 4000 4000 5000 9000 5000 14000
16000 Particle size distribution <15 .mu.m 99.9 98 98 99.9 58 76
68 55 15-20 .mu.m 0.1 2 2 0.1 35 21 24 35 >20 .mu.m -- -- -- --
7 3 8 10 Mean particle 5.5 6 6.5 5.0 14 13 15 16 diameter
Appearance Opaque Opaque Opaque Opaque Pearl- Pearl- Pearl- Pearl-
escent escent escent escent
* * * * *