U.S. patent application number 10/439067 was filed with the patent office on 2004-11-18 for woven stretch fabrics and methods of making same.
Invention is credited to Blalock, John L., Greer, James T., Love, Franklin S. III, Tantillo, Thomas A..
Application Number | 20040229538 10/439067 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 33417715 |
Filed Date | 2004-11-18 |
United States Patent
Application |
20040229538 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Love, Franklin S. III ; et
al. |
November 18, 2004 |
Woven stretch fabrics and methods of making same
Abstract
Woven fabrics made from non-stretch yarns yet having high levels
of stretch and recovery are described. The fabrics include at least
about 50% of a synthetic fiber component, and are woven such that
the warp and filling are approximately balanced by weight before
warp contraction, with about 50% warp density or less. The fabrics
are exposed to a cumulative dynamic tension in the warp direction
of at least about 250 min-lb/linear ft, and are then finished to
about 70-80% of their reed width at a temperature greater than or
equal to the heat set temperature for the synthetic fiber
component. The fabrics may also be exposed to a face finishing
process and/or a fluid treatment process.
Inventors: |
Love, Franklin S. III;
(Columbus, NC) ; Blalock, John L.; (Greenville,
SC) ; Tantillo, Thomas A.; (Evans, GA) ;
Greer, James T.; (Moore, SC) |
Correspondence
Address: |
Sara M. Current
Legal Department, M-495
PO Box 1926
Spartanburg
SC
29304
US
|
Family ID: |
33417715 |
Appl. No.: |
10/439067 |
Filed: |
May 15, 2003 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
442/182 ;
264/288.4 |
Current CPC
Class: |
Y10T 442/3065 20150401;
D06C 3/00 20130101; Y10T 442/3976 20150401; Y10T 442/3008 20150401;
D03D 17/00 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
442/182 ;
264/288.4 |
International
Class: |
D03D 015/08 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A method of making a woven stretch fabric comprising the steps
of: weaving a fabric from substantially all non-stretch yarns such
that the warp and filling yarn densities are within.+-.10% of each
other before warp contraction, and wherein said fabric has at least
about 50% of a synthetic fiber component, and exposing the fabric
to at least about 250 min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension in the
warp direction and setting the fabric at a width less than its reed
width, to thereby provide a fabric having at least about 15%
stretch and at least about 80% recovery in the filling direction
when tested according to Test Methods TTM 074 and TTM 077.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is woven in
a construction selected from the group consisting of plain weave,
twill weave, satin weave.
3. A fabric made by the method of claim 1.
4. A woven stretch fabric comprising: a plurality of interwoven
warp and filling yarns, wherein said warp and filling yarns consist
essentially of non-stretch yarns, wherein said fabric comprises at
least about 50% of a synthetic fiber component, and said fabric has
about 15% or greater of stretch when tested according to TTM 074
Test Method and at least about 80% recovery when tested according
to TTM 077.
5. The fabric according to claim 2, wherein said synthetic fiber
component is selected from the group consisting of polyester,
nylon, and aramids.
6. The fabric according to claim 2, wherein said fabric has a warp
density of about 50% or less.
7. A woven fabric consisting essentially of non-stretch yarns, said
fabric having warp and filling directions, wherein said fabric has
a stretch in filling direction of at least about 15% when tested
according to TTM-074, and at least about 80% recovery when tested
according to TTM-077.
8. The fabric according to claim 3, wherein said fabric comprises
about 50% or greater of a synthetic fiber component.
9. A method of making a stretch woven fabric from non-stretch yarns
comprising the steps of: weaving a fabric having about 50% or less
warp yarn density and at least about 50% of a synthetic fiber
component, exposing the fabric to a cumulative dynamic tension of
at least about 250 min-lb/linear foot, and heat setting the fabric
at a width of less than its reed width of the fabric.
10. The method according to claim 4, further comprising the step of
exposing the fabric to dynamic tension comprises exposing the
fabric to a cumulative dynamic tension of about 250 min-lb/linear
foot to about 700 min-lb/linear foot.
11. The method according to claim 4, wherein said step of heat
setting comprises heat setting the fabric at a width of about 70 to
about 80% of its reed width.
12. The method according to claim 4, wherein said step of exposing
the fabric to a cumulative dynamic tension comprises exposing the
fabric to a face finishing process.
13. The method according to claim 4, wherein said step of exposing
the fabric to a cumulative dynamic tension comprises exposing the
fabric to a high energy fluid treatment process.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The invention is directed to woven stretch fabrics made from
non-stretch yarns, and methods of making such fabrics.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Woven fabrics are commonly used in a wide variety of
applications such as apparel and the like. While woven fabrics are
known for providing good durability, knit fabrics are often
preferred in certain end uses due to their ability to stretch. In
other words, the nature of knit fabrics provides them with an
inherent ability to stretch regardless of the types of yarns from
which they are knit, while woven fabrics generally require the
inclusion of special stretch yarns in order to provide them with
any significant degree of stretch and recovery. Even when currently
available specialty yarns are utilized to impart stretch to woven
fabrics, the fabrics provide less than optimal performance. For
example, elastomeric yarns tend to be expensive and do not
favorably withstand the high temperatures used in many textile
manufacturing and treatment operations, and their stretch and
recovery do not tend to be very durable. Similarly, torque stretch
yarns can be used to achieve 15-20% stretch in certain fabrics, but
their recovery performance is only marginal, they tend to be
relatively expensive, and they tend to have a negative effect on
the aesthetics of the fabric.
[0003] Manufacturing processes designed to impart mechanical
stretch to woven fabrics have generally been limited to those which
apply some lengthwise tension while the fabric edges are not
stretched outwardly to any significant extent. However, such
fabrics have heretofore only been able to achieve a maximum stretch
of about 12%.
[0004] With the recent trend in the apparel industry for garment
comfort, there exists a great need for methods of providing woven
fabrics with stretch and recovery characteristics at levels greater
than heretofore achievable. In addition, it would be desirable to
achieve the stretch and recovery using standard "non-stretch"
yarns. (For purposes of this invention, the term "non-stretch" is
used to describe standard yarns which have less than about 10%
stretch (i.e. elongation) and recovery, and would exclude yarns
engineered for stretch such as elastomeric yarns (e.g. spandex or
rubber), bicomponent yarns made from components having differential
shrinkage, and torque yarns (those yarns that have been textured to
enable them to stretch and recover.))
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0005] FIG. 1A is a plan view of a prior art fabric construction,
as it comes off of the loom;
[0006] FIG. 1B is a plan view of a prior art fabric construction
after it has been finished for stretch;
[0007] FIG. 2A is a sectional view of the fabric of FIG. 1A, taken
along line 2A;
[0008] FIG. 2B is a sectional view of the fabric of FIG. 2B, taken
along line 2B;
[0009] FIG. 3A is a plan view of a fabric made according to the
invention as it comes off of the loom;
[0010] FIG. 3B is a plan view of a fabric made according to the
invention after it has been finished;
[0011] FIG. 4A is a sectional view of the fabric of FIG. 3A, taken
along line 4A; and
[0012] FIG. 4B is a sectional view of the fabric of FIG. 3B, taken
along line 4B.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0013] In the following detailed description of the invention,
specific preferred embodiments of the invention are described to
enable a full and complete understanding of the invention. It will
be recognized that it is not intended to limit the invention to the
particular preferred embodiment described, and although specific
terms are employed in describing the invention, such terms are used
in a descriptive sense for the purpose of illustration and not for
the purpose of limitation.
[0014] The fabrics of the present invention are woven substantially
entirely from non-stretch yarns, and desirably include at least
about 50% or greater of a synthetic fiber component, in order that
they will retain their memory after a heat setting process. The
fabrics can be made from substantially all synthetic fibers, blends
of two or more types of synthetic fibers, or blends of synthetic
fibers and natural fibers. For example, the fabrics can be made
from fibers including but not limited to polyester, polyamide,
aramids, cotton, rayon, silk, polylactide based fibers, PTT fibers,
wool, etc. Furthermore, the fabrics can be made from spun or
filament yarns, or combinations thereof, and can be single ply or
multi-plied, as desired. The yarns can be produced by any variety
of yarn manufacturing process, including but not limited to jet
spinning, open end spinning, ring spinning, vortex spinning, false
twist texturing, air texturing, etc.
[0015] The fabrics can be woven in any conventional weave
construction, including but not limited to plain weave, satin
weave, twill weave, and the like. However, it will be understood
that the type of weave will be factored into the mechanism of the
invention to determine the proper fabric density to optimize
stretch for a given fabric.
[0016] The stretch and recovery properties are achieved through the
combination of a particular fabric construction, a synthetic fiber
component, selective density distribution and processing steps
designed to impart a cumulative dynamic tension, followed by a heat
setting treatment at a temperature at or greater than the heat
setting temperature for the particular synthetic fiber component.
In particular, fabric is engineered to achieve a balanced
relationship between warp and filling weight before warp
contraction, in combination with a warp density factor of about 50%
or less. Stretch of about 15% or greater in combination with
recovery of about 80-97% can be achieved through this invention, as
tested with the test methods TTM 074 and TTM 077, respectively,
described below.
[0017] As noted above, the fabrics of the invention are engineered
to have particular unique warp density at a given fabric density
index, with that warp density desirably being about 50% or less. A
fabric's density index can be calculated using the formula
F.sub.d=(d.sub.w+d.sub.f).sup.2*n.sub- .w*n.sub.f*f*100%,
where:
[0018] F.sub.d=fabric density index
[0019] d.sub.w=warp yarn diameter
[0020] d.sub.f=filling yarn diameter
[0021] n.sub.w=number of ends per unit length
[0022] n.sub.f=number of picks per unit length
[0023] f=factor for fabric construction (see table below)
[0024] (from) Latke et al. "Textilien
Prufen--Untersuchen--Auswerten", Schiele & Schon--Berlin
(1974)).
[0025] Fabric Construction Factors for Some Common Fabric
Constructions
1 FABRIC CONSTRUCTION FACTOR plain weave (1 .times. 1) 1 twill
weave (2 .times. 1) 0.7 twill weave (3 .times. 1) 0.56 Satin weave
(4 .times. 1) 0.49
[0026] The theoretical maximum fabric density is 100%, indicating
yarns are in complete contact with adjacent yarns on either side in
both the warp and filling directions. This actual maximum is closer
to 110%, as yarns do not have a perfect round diameter and can
deform under tension to form an ellipse and therefore compact more
closely.
[0027] According to the invention, the selective density
distribution of the warp and filling yarns can be engineered to
create the optimal conditions for stretch. The density of the warp
yarns and the density of the filling yarns can be calculated
independently as follows:
Wy.sub.d=d.sub.w*n.sub.w*f*100% and
Fy.sub.d=d.sub.f*n.sub.f*f*100%, where
[0028] Wy.sub.d=warp yarn density
[0029] d.sub.w=diameter of the warp yarn
[0030] n.sub.w=number of warp yarn ends per unit length
[0031] f=fabric construction factor (from Table)
[0032] Fy.sub.d=filling yarn density
[0033] d.sub.f=diameter of the filling yarn
[0034] n.sub.f=number of filling yarns per unit length and 1 d w ,
d f = ( 4 T t ) ( .PI. 10 4 ) ,
[0035] where
[0036] T.sub.t=yarn count in tex
[0037] .rho.=yarn density
[0038] .rho.=nylon=1.15
[0039] polyester=1.38
[0040] cotton=1.54
[0041] acrylic=1.17
[0042] It was surprisingly found by the inventors that at a given
fabric density index (Fd), when the warp yarn density was
engineered to be about 50% or less and combined with other
processing operations, a fabric having a high level of stretch and
recovery could be achieved from non-stretch yarns. In other aspects
of the invention, it may be desirable to have the warp yarn density
at an even lower level, such as about 40% or less or about 30% or
less.
[0043] The warp yarn density (Wy.sub.d) and filling yarn density
(Fy.sub.d) are desirably equal or substantially equal within
.+-.10% for the fabrics formed according to this invention. The
warp yarn density of the greige fabric is 20-30% lower than
standard commercial fabrics for similar end use. As a result, the
filling yarn density is 10-15% higher for the greige fabric of the
present invention than for typical prior art constructions. Warp
yarn density and filling yarn density are calculated based on the
warp ends per inch at the reed for a particular greige fabric and
the actual picks per inch inserted in the shed. The selective
density distribution creates the environment for stretch
engineering in the fabric with the utilization of selected
finishing equipment and processes. The decrease in warp yarn
density results in `warp air space` or openness between the warps
which will be filled as the yarns are drawn together and held in
tension and the fill yarns constrict from crimp exchange. The
increase in fill yarn density `blocks` shrinkage or addition
constriction in the lengthwise direction. For this reason, the
Wy.sub.d and Fy.sub.d are engineered to be equal or essentially
equal, otherwise a substantially larger Fy.sub.d would `block` the
fabric from constricting in both lengthwise and widthwise
directions, inhibiting the creation of stretch.
[0044] For the purpose of this invention, size add-on is ignored in
regard to impacting the even weight distribution and yarn diameter,
as it is later removed in fabric preparation and is considered to
be negligible.
[0045] With reference to the drawings, FIGS. 1A and 2A illustrate a
typical prior art fabric construction as it comes off the loom. In
the illustrated embodiment, the warp and filling yarns (W, F,
respectively) are the same size, and the warp yarn density is
greater than the filling yarn density. FIGS. 1B and 2B show the
same prior art fabric after it has been "finished for stretch" by
heating it without extending out the width. As illustrated, the
filling yarns are still relatively straight, thereby providing the
fabric with only minimal stretch potential.
[0046] FIGS. 3A and 4A show a fabric according to the invention as
it comes off the loom. As illustrated, the warp and filling yarns
(W, F, respectively) have balanced density (with the warp and
filling yarns being the same size.) FIGS. 3B and 4B show the same
fabric, after it has been processed according to the invention. As
illustrated, the crimp or contraction of the warp yarns has been
transferred to the filling. In other words, as the fabric is held
under lengthwise tension, the crimp is `exchanged` to the filling
yarn. The filling yarns maintain the crimped state throughout
processing due to dynamic tension. The fabric is heat set at the
last process to lock-in the crimp so that the fill yarns act as a
spring to give the fabric stretch and recovery with the physical
properties as stated in the invention.
Warp Weight before Warp Contraction=(#ends/in*Reed Width (in))/Yarn
Count*(840 yards yarn/lb)
Filling Weight before Warp Contraction=(#picks/in*Reed Width
(in))/Yarn Count*(840 yards yarn/lb)
[0047] The fabric is then exposed to a dynamic tension of about 250
min lb/linear ft. of fabric to about 700 min lb/linear ft of
fabric. In general, it will be desirable to expose the fabric to
the upper end of the dynamic tension range, in order to optimize
the amount of stretch in the fabric.
[0048] The fabric is then finished at about 70-80% of its reed (as
woven) width, and heat set at the appropriate temperature for the
specific synthetic fiber component forming part of that fabric.
Such heat set temperatures are commonly known by those of ordinary
skill in the art.
[0049] The fabric may also include additional optional processing
operations, which may be performed at any stage of the
manufacturing operation. For example, the fabric can be subjected
to one or more face finishing operations, such as sanding,
brushing, napping, wet sueding, dry sueding, or processing by the
sanding methods described in commonly-assigned U.S. Pat. No.
6,233,795 to Dischler, U.S. Pat. No. 6,260,247 to Dischler et al,
U.S. Pat. No. 6,269,525 to Dischler et al, U.S. Pat. No. 6,345,421
to Dischler et al, U.S. Pat. No. 4,468,844 to Otto, U.S. Pat. No.
4,512,065 to Otto, U.S. Pat. No. 5,943,745 to Dischler, U.S. Pat.
No. 6,242,370 to Dischler, U.S. Pat. No. 5,815,896 to Dischler, and
U.S. Pat. No. 5,752,300 to Dischler, the disclosures of which are
incorporated herein by reference. For purposes of this disclosure,
the term "sanding" is intended in its broadest sense to encompass
all types of grits (e.g. sandpaper, sanding films, diamond plated
rolls, three-dimensional abrasion such as by using Scotchbrite.RTM.
grit available from 3M Corporation of St. Paul, Minn., etc.) and
grit supports. This/these face finishing operation(s) can be
selected to provide warpwise tension to the fabric, to contribute
to the overall cumulative processing tension referenced above.
Furthermore, the face finishing operations can be provided to one
or both surfaces of the fabric, depending on the desired end
results.
[0050] In addition to or instead of a face finishing operation, the
fabrics can also optionally be exposed to a high energy fluid
treatment. For example, the fabric can be treated with a high
pressure gas such as air, high pressure liquid, or the like. For
example, it has been found that a high pressure water treatment of
the variety described in commonly-assigned co-pending U.S. patent
application Ser. No. 09/344,596 to Emery et al, filed Jun. 25,
1999, works well in the invention. The disclosure of U.S. patent
application Ser. No. 09,344,596 to Emery et al, filed Jun. 25,
1999, is incorporated herein by reference. However, other types of
fluid treatment apparatus could be used within the scope of the
invention, including but not limited to those described in U.S.
Pat. Nos. 5,806,155 to Malaney et al.; U.S. Pat. No. 6,253,429 to
Zolin; U.S. Pat. No. 5,632,072 to Simon et al.; and U.S. Pat. No.
6,343,410 to Greenway et al.; U.S. Pat. No. 5,791,028 to Zolin;
U.S. Pat. No. 6,442,810 to Greenway et al.; U.S. Pat. No. 6,442,809
to Greenway et al.; U.S. Pat. No. 5,136,761 to Sternlieb et al.;
U.S. Pat. No. 4,995,151 to Siegel et al.; and U.S. Pat. No.
4,967,456 to Sternlieb et al., the disclosures of which are
incorporated herein by reference. The high energy fluid treatment
can be performed on both surfaces or on one surface only. As noted
above, in some embodiments of the invention (such as when using the
fluid treatment apparatus described above in the '596 application
to Emery et al), a surface effect may be achieved on both surfaces
of the fabric despite fluid treatment being performed only on a
single side of the fabric.
[0051] As noted previously, the amount of energy applied can be
selected to optimize the surface effect on the particular fabric
being treated. In addition, the parameters of the particular
treatment apparatus can be selected without undue experimentation
to achieve the desired level of treatment, so that the desired
level of surface effect is achieved for the particular fabric. It
is expected that by treating a fabric with at least about 0.0295
hp-hr/lb of energy, a good surface effect could be achieved for
many textile fabrics. In some embodiments of the invention, it has
been found that an energy application of about 0.0295-0.118
hp-hr/lb achieves a good feeling fabric. It has surprisingly been
found that by mechanically disturbing interlacings between the warp
and filling yarns, the warp density factor can be increased upon
subsequent processing, thereby enhancing the stretch potential of
the fabric. In addition, it has been found that certain high energy
fluid treatments such as the one described in the Emery patent
application referenced above can cause the warp yarn bundle to
bloom, causing a density decrease in the warp yarns and reducing
the ratios of curvature for the filling yarns around the warp
yarns. As a result, stretch potential of the fabric can be
favorably impacted. Additional processing steps such as dyeing,
chemical treatments, etc. can be performed at any point in the
manufacturing operation within the scope of the invention. For
example, conventional chemistries such as soil release chemistry,
wicking agents, hand builders, anti-static agents, antimicrobial
chemistries, and the like can be added within the scope of the
invention.
EXAMPLES
Example A
[0052] A fabric was woven in a plain weave construction using a
conventional weaving process. The fabric had 26.0/1 100% polyester
air jet spun yarns in the warp, and 26.0/1 100% polyester air jet
spun yarns in the filling, and was woven at a reed width of 74.56
inches with 68 ends per inch and 68 picks per inch. The fabric had
a greige weight (without size) of 3.92 oz/sq yd.
Example A1
[0053] The fabric was then processed on an angular sueding machine
of the variety described in commonly assigned U.S. Pat. No.
5,943,745 to Dischler, entitled "Process and Apparatus for
Angularly Sueding a Textile Web Containing Fill and Warp Yarns" the
disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference, to abrade
the fabric surface. The fabric then went through a standard range
fabric preparation process at 200.degree. F. wash temperature. The
fabric was then hydraulically treated on a machine of the variety
described in the above referenced Emery U.S. patent application
Ser. No. 09/344,596 at an energy application of 0.037 hp-hr/lb. On
the front side and 0.022 hp-hr/lb. On the opposite surface, for a
total treatment of 0.059 hp-hr/lb., under tension of around 20
lb/linear foot. The fabric was then dried and passed through a
tenter frame at 425.degree. F. at 75% of reed width for 30 seconds.
Overall the fabric was exposed to 470.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of
dynamic tension during this downstream processing.
Example A2
[0054] The fabric was processed on a sanding apparatus of the
variety described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,233,795 to Dischler, the
disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. The fabric
was then dried and then processed on a tenter frame at 425.degree.
F. at 81% of reed width for 30 seconds. Overall the fabric was
subjected to 425.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension during
this processing.
Example A3
[0055] The fabric was then processed on an angular sueding machine
of the variety described in commonly assigned U.S. Pat. No.
5,943,745 to Dischler, entitled "Process and Apparatus for
Angularly Sueding a Textile Web Containing Fill and Warp Yarns" the
disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference, to abrade
the fabric surface. The fabric then went through a standard range
fabric preparation process at 200.degree. F. wash temperature. The
fabric was then hydraulically treated on a machine of the variety
described in the above referenced Emery U.S. patent application
Ser. No. 09/344,596 at an energy application of 0.037 hp-hr/lb. On
the front side and 0.022 hp-hr/lb. On the opposite surface, for a
total treatment of 0.059 hp-hr/lb., under tension of around 20
lb/linear foot. The fabric was then dyed using conventional
thermosal dye range, then heat set on a tenter frame at 425.degree.
F. at 78% of reed width for 30 seconds. The fabric experienced
570.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension during the
processing.
Example A4
[0056] The fabric was processed on a sanding apparatus of the
variety described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,233,795 to Dischler, the
disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. The fabric
was then dyed using a conventional thermasol dye range, then heat
set on a tenter frame at 425.degree. F. at 82% of reed width for 30
seconds. The fabric experienced 525.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of
dynamic tension during the processing.
Example A5
Comparative Sample
[0057] A commercially available top weight uniform fabric was also
tested for comparative purposes. That fabric had been woven using a
conventional weaving process in a plain weave construction. The
fabric had 26.0/1 100% polyester open end spun yarns in the warp,
and 25.0/1 100% polyester ring spun (3.8 twist multiple) yarns in
the filling, with a reed width of 72.13 inches, 91.5 ends per inch
and 48 picks per inch. The fabric had a greige weight (without
size) of 3.89 oz/sq yd. The fabric was abraded with a sanding
apparatus of the variety described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,233,795, then
processed through a standard range fabric preparation process at
200.degree. F. wash temperature. The fabric was thermosol dyed in a
conventional manner, and heat set on a tenter frame at 425.degree.
F. at 90% reed width for 30 seconds.
Example B
[0058] A fabric was woven in a plain weave construction using a
conventional weaving process. The fabric had 26.0/1 100% polyester
air jet spun yarns in the warp, and 2/150/68 100% polyester false
twist textured yarns in the filling. The fabric was woven at a reed
width of 74.56 inches, with 68 ends per inch and 46 picks per inch.
The fabric had a greige weight (without size) of 4.02 oz/sq yd.
Example B1
[0059] The fabric was then processed on an angular sueding machine
of the variety described in commonly assigned U.S. Pat. No.
5,943,745 to Dischler, entitled "Process and Apparatus for
Angularly Sueding a Textile Web Containing Fill and Warp Yarns" the
disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference, to abrade
the fabric surface. The fabric then went through a standard range
fabric preparation process at 200.degree. F. wash temperature. The
fabric was then hydraulically treated on a machine of the variety
described in the above referenced Emery U.S. patent application
Ser. No. 09/344,596 at an energy application of 0.037 hp-hr/lb. On
the front side and 0.022 hp-hr/lb. On the opposite surface, for a
total treatment of 0.059 hp-hr/lb., under tension of around 20
lb/linear foot. The fabric was then dried and heat set on a tenter
frame at 425.degree. F. at 76% of reed width for 30 seconds.
Overall the fabric was exposed to 470.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of
dynamic tension during this downstream processing.
Example B2
[0060] The fabric was processed on a sanding apparatus of the
variety described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,233,795 to Dischler, the
disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. The fabric
was then dried and then processed on a tenter frame at 425.degree.
F. at 78% of reed width for 30 seconds. Overall the fabric was
subjected to 425.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension during
this processing.
Example B3
[0061] The fabric was then processed on an angular sueding machine
of the variety described in commonly assigned U.S. Pat. No.
5,943,745 to Dischler, entitled "Process and Apparatus for
Angularly Sueding a Textile Web Containing Fill and Warp Yarns" the
disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference, to abrade
the fabric surface. The fabric then went through a standard range
fabric preparation process at 200.degree. F. wash temperature. The
fabric was then hydraulically treated on a machine of the variety
described in the above referenced Emery U.S. patent application
Ser. No. 09/344,596 at an energy application of 0.037 hp-hr/lb. On
the front side and 0.022 hp-hr/lb. On the opposite surface, for a
total treatment of 0.059 hp-hr/lb., under tension of around 20
lb/linear foot. The fabric was then dyed using conventional
thermosal dye range, then heat set on a tenter frame at 425.degree.
F. at 79% of reed width for 30 seconds. Overall, the fabrics was
subjected to 570.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension during
this downstream processing.
Example B4
[0062] The fabric was processed on a sanding apparatus of the
variety described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,233,795 to Dischler, the
disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. The fabric
was then dyed using a conventional thermasol dye range, then heat
set on a tenter frame at 425.degree. F. at 81% of reed width for 30
seconds. Overall, the fabric was subjected to 525.+-.15%
min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension during this downstream
processing.
Example B5
Comparative Sample
[0063] The same comparative fabric used in Example A was also used
for comparative purposes with the Example B fabrics.
Example C
[0064] A fabric was woven using a conventional weaving process in a
plain weave construction. The fabric had 19.0/1 100% polyester open
end spun yarns (3.60 twist multiple) in the warp, and 19.0/1 100%
polyester open end spun yarns (3.60 twist multiple) in the filling.
The fabric was woven at a reed width of 74.56 inches, with 50 ends
per inch and 50 picks per inch. The fabric had a greige weight
(without size) of 3.91 oz/sq yd.
Example C1
[0065] The fabric was then processed on an angular sueding machine
of the variety described in commonly assigned U.S. Pat. No.
5,943,745 to Dischler, entitled "Process and Apparatus for
Angularly Sueding a Textile Web Containing Fill and Warp Yarns" the
disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference, to abrade
the fabric surface. The fabric then went through a standard range
fabric preparation process at 200.degree. F. wash temperature. The
fabric was then hydraulically treated on a machine of the variety
described in the above referenced Emery U.S. patent application
Ser. No. 09/344,596 at an energy application of 0.037 hp-hr/lb. On
the front side and 0.022 hp-hr/lb. On the opposite surface, for a
total treatment of 0.059 hp-hr/lb., under tension of around 20
lb/linear foot. The fabric was then dried and heat set on a tenter
frame at 425.degree. F. at 75% of reed width for 30 seconds.
Overall the fabric was exposed to 470.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of
dynamic tension during this downstream processing.
Example C2
[0066] The fabric was processed on a sanding apparatus of the
variety described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,233,795 to Dischler, the
disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. The fabric
was then dried and then heat set on a tenter frame at 425.degree.
F. at 78% of reed width for 30 seconds. Overall the fabric was
subjected to 425.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension during
this processing.
Example C3
[0067] The fabric was then processed on an angular sueding machine
of the variety described in commonly assigned U.S. Pat. No.
5,943,745 to Dischler, entitled "Process and Apparatus for
Angularly Sueding a Textile Web Containing Fill and Warp Yarns" the
disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference, to abrade
the fabric surface. The fabric then went through a standard range
fabric preparation process at 200.degree. F. wash temperature. The
fabric was then hydraulically treated on a machine of the variety
described in the above referenced Emery U.S. patent application
Ser. No. 09/344,596 at an energy application of 0.037 hp-hr/lb. On
the front side and 0.022 hp-hr/lb. On the opposite surface, for a
total treatment of 0.059 hp-hr/lb., under tension of around 20
lb/linear foot. The fabric was then dyed using conventional
thermosal dye range, then run down tenter frame at 425.degree. F.
at 81% of reed width for 30 seconds. Overall, the fabric was
exposed to 570.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension.
Example C4
[0068] The fabric was processed on a sanding apparatus of the
variety described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,233,795 to Dischler, the
disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. The fabric
was then dyed using a conventional thermasol dye range, then run
down a tenter frame at 425.degree. F. at 82% of reed width for 30
seconds. Overall, the fabric was exposed to 525.+-.15%
min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension.
Example C5
Comparative Sample
[0069] A typical commercially-available shirt weight 100% polyester
fabric was utilized for comparative purposes. The fabric had 19.0/1
100% polyester open end spun (3.6 twist multiple) yarns in both the
warp and filling. The fabric was woven at a reed width of 72.01
inches, with 71.4 ends per inch and 48 picks per inch. The fabric
was abraded with a sanding apparatus of the variety described in
U.S. Pat. No. 6,233795, then passed through a standard range fabric
preparation process at 200.degree. F. wash temperature. The fabric
was thermasol dyed in a conventional manner, and heat set on a
tenter frame at 425.degree. F. at 90% reed width for 30 seconds.
Overall, the fabric was subjected to 470.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of
dynamic tension.
Example D
[0070] A fabric was woven in a plain weave construction using a
conventional weaving process. The fabric had 19.0/1 100% open end
spun polyester yarns (3.60 twist multiple) in the warp, and
2/150/68 100% polyester false twist textured yarns in the filling.
The fabric was woven at a reed width of 74.56 inches, with 50 ends
per inch and 46 picks per inch. The fabric had a greige weight
(without size) of about 4.00 oz/sq yd.
Example D1
[0071] The fabric was then processed on an angular sueding machine
of the variety described in commonly assigned U.S. Pat. No.
5,943,745 to Dischler, entitled "Process and Apparatus for
Angularly Sueding a Textile Web Containing Fill and Warp Yarns" the
disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference, to abrade
the fabric surface. The fabric then went through a standard range
fabric preparation process at 200.degree. F. wash temperature. The
fabric was then hydraulically treated on a machine of the variety
described in the above referenced Emery U.S. patent application
Ser. No. 09/344,596 at an energy application of 0.037 hp-hr/lb. On
the front side and 0.022 hp-hr/lb. On the opposite surface, for a
total treatment of 0.059 hp-hr/lb., under tension of around 20
lb/linear foot. The fabric was then dried and heat set on a tenter
frame at 425.degree. F. at 75% of reed width for 30 seconds.
Overall the fabric was exposed to 470.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of
dynamic tension during this downstream processing.
Example D2
[0072] The fabric was processed on a sanding apparatus of the
variety described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,233,795 to Dischler, the
disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. The fabric
was then dried and then processed on a tenter frame at 425.degree.
F. at 77% of reed width for 30 seconds. Overall the fabric was
subjected to 425.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension during
this processing.
Example D3
[0073] The fabric was then processed on an angular sueding machine
of the variety described in commonly assigned U.S. Pat. No.
5,943,745 to Dischler, entitled "Process and Apparatus for
Angularly Sueding a Textile Web Containing Fill and Warp Yarns" the
disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference, to abrade
the fabric surface. The fabric then went through a standard range
fabric preparation process at 200.degree. F. wash temperature. The
fabric was then hydraulically treated on a machine of the variety
described in the above referenced Emery U.S. patent application
Ser. No. 09/344,596 at an energy application of 0.037 hp-hr/lb. On
the front side and 0.022 hp-hr/lb. On the opposite surface, for a
total treatment of 0.059 hp-hr/lb., under tension of around 20
lb/linear foot. The fabric was then dyed using conventional
thermosal dye range, then heat set on a tenter frame at 425.degree.
F. at 78% of reed width for 30 seconds. Overall, the fabric was
subjected to 570.+-.15% min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension during
this processing.
Example D4
[0074] The fabric was processed on a sanding apparatus of the
variety described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,233,795 to Dischler, the
disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. The fabric
was then dyed using a conventional thermasol dye range, then run
down a tenter frame at 425.degree. F. at 82% of reed width for 30
seconds. Overall, the fabric was subjected to 525.+-.15%
min-lb/linear ft of dynamic tension during this processing.
Example D5
Comparative Sample
[0075] The same comparative sample was used for Example D as for
Example C.
[0076] Test Methods
[0077] Finished Weight--Finished weight was measured according to
ASTM D-3776 (1996).
[0078] Ends per inch and picks per inch--Ends and picks per inch
were determined by visually counting using a pick glass.
[0079] Warp and Filling Shrinkage--Warp and filling shrinkage were
measured according to AATCC Test Method 96 (2001) for fabrics of
Examples A-D; the fabrics were washed at 140.degree. F. using Tide
Detergent and the fabrics of Example E were washed at 140.degree.
F. using AATCC Test Method 135 (2001).
[0080] Stretch--Filling Stretch for the fabrics of the invention
was measured according to the following test method TTM 074 Fabric
Elongation Test. For the comparative sample fabrics, the fabrics
had no discernible stretch when pulled by hand, and thus were not
tested. For this reason, they are identified as having less than 5%
(which is generally the point where a fabric is considered to have
some "give" when pulled.)
[0081] TTM 074--Fabric Elongation (Hanging Weight Test)
[0082] Purpose: This test determines the total stretch (elongation)
of a woven stretch fabric.
[0083] Summary of Method: Fabric specimens of known length are
mounted onto a static extension tester, and weights representing
loads of 6 N per cm (3.37 lb per in.) are attached to the
specimens. The specimens are exercised by hand for three cycles and
then allowed to hang free. The extended lengths of the weighted
specimens is then recorded, and the fabric elongation is
calculated.
[0084] Field of Application: This test applies to stretch wovens,
and serves as an alternative to the spring balance or dynamometer
methods for measuring fabric elongation.
[0085] Definitions: Exercise--to perform one or more cycles of
stretching a fabric and then allowing it to relax.
[0086] Equipment: Static extension tester
[0087] Scissors
[0088] Tweezers
[0089] Ruler
[0090] Stopwatch
[0091] Metal pins: 1/8 in. diameter.times.2 in. length
[0092] Weights: 30 N (6.75 lb)
[0093] Safety: Observe the following safety practices when
performing this test:
[0094] Follow the general safety procedures in effect at your
laboratory.
[0095] Be careful to avoid pinch points when clamping
specimens.
[0096] Always exercise care when handling scissors.
[0097] Wear safety shoes when performing this test.
[0098] Sampling:
[0099] Follow fill or warp stretch fabrics, prepare three specimens
for testing.
[0100] Select specimens from as broad an area of the fabric as
possible, and in such a way that no two specimens contain the same
yarns.
[0101] Take all specimens at least 10 cm (4 in) from the
selvage.
[0102] Procedure: 1. Cut three specimens for each fabric sample.
Each specimen should measure 60.times.6.5 cm (12.times.2.5 in.).
The long dimension should correspond with the stretch
direction.
[0103] 2. Unravel each specimen to 5 cm (2 in.) in width, removing
approximately the same number of threads on either side.
[0104] 3. Perform steps "a" to "d" below:
[0105] a. Fold one end of the fabric over on itself to form a loop,
and sew a seam across the width of the specimen.
[0106] b. Cut a V. shaped notch into the loop, such that if the
loop were opened flat, a diamond shaped opening would be
formed.
[0107] c. At 6.5 cm (2.5 in.) from the unlooped edge of the fabric,
draw benchmark "A".
[0108] d. At 50 cm (20 in.) away from benchmark "A", draw benchmark
"B".
[0109] 4. Condition the specimens for at least 16 hours at:
[0110] 20.degree. C., .+-.2.degree.(70.degree. F.,
.+-.3.degree.)
[0111] 65% relative humidity, .+-.2%
[0112] 5. Place a specimen in the top clamp of the static tester
with benchmark "A" at clamp edge and the looped end hanging free.
Snap clamp shut.
[0113] 6. Align the zero mark on the ruler with benchmark "B".
[0114] 7. Insert the metal pin through the specimen loop and hook a
30 N (6.75 lb.) weight through the notch onto the metal pin.
[0115] 8. Exercise the specimen by allowing it to be stretched by
the weight for three seconds, and then relieving the tension by
manually lifting the weight. Do this three times.
[0116] 9. Allow the weight to hang freely (thereby stretching the
specimen), and then record the specimen length to the nearest
millimeter (FIG. 3.3).
[0117] 10. Calculate the fabric elongation: 2 % fabric elongation =
ML - GL GL .times. 100
[0118] ML is the length between benchmarks at 30 N
[0119] GL is the original length between benchmarks
[0120] 11. Repeat steps 5-10 for all specimens.
[0121] Reporting: Report the individual and the average fabric
elongation for the three specimens in the filling direction(s).
[0122] Set and Recovery--Filling Set was measured according to the
following test method TTM 077 Fabric Growth Test. The Filling Set
was then divided by the Filling Stretch, and subtracted from 1 to
achieve the % recovery.
[0123] TTM 077--Fabric Growth
[0124] Purpose: This test determines the percentage of fabric
growth in stretch wovens.
[0125] Summary of Method: Fabrics first undergo an elongation test
TTM 074 to determine the fabric elongation. Specimens from these
fabrics are then extended to 80% of the fabric elongation and held
in this state for 30 minutes. They are then allowed to relax for 60
minutes, at which point the fabric growth is measured and
calculated.
[0126] If 80% of the fabric elongation is greater than 35%, then
the extension used for the growth test will be limited to 35%.
[0127] Field of Application: This test applies to stretch wovens.
Growth is measured in the stretch direction only.
[0128] Definitions: Fabric elongation--the extent to which a fabric
will stretch in response to a load of 6 N per cm (3.37 lb per in.),
expressed as a percentage of the original relaxed length.
[0129] Growth--the unrecovered length of a fabric that has been
held at a specified elongation for a specified period and then
allowed to relax. Growth is expressed as a percentage of the
original relaxed length.
[0130] Equipment: Static extension tester
[0131] Scissors
[0132] Ruler
[0133] Timer
[0134] Safety: Observe the following safety practices when
performing this test:
[0135] Follow the general safety procedures in effect at your
laboratory.
[0136] Be careful to avoid pinch points when clamping
specimens.
[0137] Always exercise care when handling scissors.
[0138] Sampling: For fill or warp stretch fabrics, prepare three
specimens for testing.
[0139] Select specimens from as broad an area of the fabric as
possible, and in such a way that no two specimens contain the same
yarns.
[0140] Take all specimens at least 10 cm (4 in.) from the
selvage.
[0141] Procedure: *Before performing the growth test, the fabric
must first have undergone an elongation test TTM 074. The fabric
elongation must be known before a growth test can be performed. Cut
new specimens from the fabric for the growth test; do not use the
same specimens that were used for the elongation test.
[0142] 1. Cut three specimens for each fabric sample. Each specimen
should measure 55.times.6 cm (22.times.2.5 in.). The long dimension
should correspond with the stretch direction. Number the specimens
from 1 to 3.
[0143] 2. Unravel each specimen to 5 cm (2 in.) in width, removing
approximately the same number of threads on either side.
[0144] 3. Condition the specimens for at least 16 hours at:
[0145] 20.degree. C., .+-.2.degree. (70.degree. F.,
.+-.3.degree.)
[0146] 65% relative humidity, .+-.2%
[0147] 4. Draw two benchmarks on each specimen exactly 50 cm (20
in.) apart, centered on the fabric (i.e. one inch inward from each
end).
[0148] 5. Calculate 80% of the known fabric elongation (E): 3 E at
80 % = E % 100 .times. .80 .times. L
[0149] *L is the original length between the benchmarks (i.e., 50
cm or 20 in.)
[0150] *For this test, observe an upper extension limit of 35%.
[0151] 6. Move the lower clamp on the static tester to the 0 cm
(in.) mark and lock it.
[0152] 7. Clamp a specimen into both clamps.
[0153] 8. Move the lower clamp downward until the pointer aligns
with the scale equivalent of E@80% as calculated in Step 5. Fix the
clamp in this position.
[0154] 9. Repeat steps 6 through 8 for the other two specimens.
[0155] 10. After 30 minutes, release the lower clamps thereby
allowing the specimens to hang freely.
[0156] 11. After 60 minutes, measure and record the increase in the
length of the specimens.
[0157] 12. Calculate the growth: 4 % growth = L2 .times. 100 L
[0158] *L2 is the increase in length between the specimen
benchmarks after relaxation.
[0159] *L is the original length between the benchmarks (i.e., 50
cm or 20 in.)
[0160] Reporting: Report the average growth for the three
specimens.
[0161] Results from the tests are listed in the tables below.
2 Parameter A1 A2 A3 A4 Comparative Width 56.00 60.13 58.00 61.25
64.84 Finished 4.83 4.46 4.64 4.25 4.3 Weight (oz/sq yd) Ends/Inch
86 86 88 82 102 (finished) Picks/Inch 68 68 68 68 48 (finished)
Shrink 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.2 1.9 (warp)-% Shrink 0.4 0.4+ 0.2+ 0.2 0.6
(filling)-% Stretch 21.6 16.8 16.6 11.4 <5% (filling)-% Set
0.60% 2.40% 2.40% 2.00% N/A (filling)-% Recovery 97 86 85.5 82.5
N/A (filling)-%
[0162]
3 Parameter B1 B2 B3 B4 Comparative Width 56.50 58.25 59.00 60.50
64.84 Finished 4.52 4.01 4.42 4.60 4.3 Weight (oz/sq yd) Ends/Inch
86 86 88 85 102 (finished) Picks/Inch 45 45 46 46 48 (finished)
Shrink 0.6 0.3 0.2 0.4 1.9 (warp)-% Shrink 0.4+ 0.4+ 0.1+ 0.1 0.6
(filling)-% Stretch 24.2 18.0 14.0 13.8 <5% (filling)-% Set 3.60
4.40 2.60 3.20 N/A (filling)-% Recovery 80 82 81 77 N/A
(filling)-%
[0163]
4 Parameter C1 C2 C3 C4 Comparative Width 55.75 58.00 60.25 61.50
64.5 (finished) Finished 4.63 4.78 4.58 4.37 4.85 Weight (oz/sq yd)
Ends/Inch 65 65 64 60 81 (finished) Picks/Inch 49 49 51 50 47
(finished) Shrink 0.4 0.4 0.2 0.4 1.5 (warp)-% Shrink 0.4+ 0.4+ 0.4
0.4 0.6 (filling)-% Stretch 22.0 20.0 4.6 6.4 <5% (filling)-%
Set 4.20 1.40 2.60 3.40 N/A (filling)-% Recovery 81 93 44* 47* N/A
(filling)-% *Note - it is believed these numbers were an anomaly
due to a processing control issue.
[0164]
5 Parameter D1 D2 D3 D4 Comparative Width 55.63 57.13 58.13 61.00
64.5 Finished 4.97 4.52 4.38 4.44 4.85 Weight (oz/sq yd) Ends/Inch
65 67 66 63 81 (finished) Picks/Inch 47 46 47 47 47 (finished)
Shrink 0.4 0.2 0.2 0.2 1.5 (warp)-% Shrink 0.4+ 0.2 0.2+ 0.1 0.6
(filling)-% Stretch 22.6 19 16.0 10.0 <5% (filling)-% Set 3.20
3.20 2.20 0.80 N/A (filling)-% Recovery 83 86 86 92 N/A
(filling)-%
Example E
Nylon/Cotton
[0165] A fabric was woven in a 2.times.1 left hand twill
construction according to conventional weaving processes as
follows: The fabric had 20.0/1 52/48% nylon/combed cotton ring spun
(4.20 twist multiple) yarns in the warp, and 17.0/1 52/48
nylon/combed cotton ring spun (4.20 twist multiple) yarns in the
filling, and was woven at a reed width of 74.07 inches with 67.5
ends per inch and 58.00 picks per inch. The fabric had a greige
weight (without size) of about 5.02 oz/sq yd.
Example E1
[0166] Fabric was desized in a conventional manner on a continuous
preparation range so that it received 250 min-lb/linear ft of
dynamic tension at 30 seconds dwell time. They were then dried (but
not heat set) at <200.degree. F. A lab simulation of expected
finishing process (which would typically entail dyeing, printing
and heat setting) was performed to see how the fabric would perform
(set on a pin tenter frame at 76% of reed width, and cured in an
oven for 30 minutes at 425.degree. F.).
Example E2
Comparative Sample
[0167] Same yarns as Example E1. Reed width of 67.08 and ends 86.4
and picks 63.0. Greige weight 6.1 oz/sq yd. It was heat set
(tentered out at 91% reed width by the customer: not set for
stretch).
6 Example E2 Comparative sample - dyed, Example printed and Process
E1 finished Greige EPI 67 86 Greige PPI 58 63 Greige Warp 0.3182
0.3835 Weight Greige Filling 0.3009 0.2960 Weight Width (finished)-
57.25 61.25 inches Weight (finished)- 5.92 6.26 oz/sq yd
Construction 88 .times. 59 96 .times. 63 finished Stretch 16% no
stretch- 5% or less Set 65% not tested
[0168] Table of Warp, Filling and Fabric Densities of Example
Fabrics
7 Warp Yarn Filling Yarn Fabric Density Example Density (Wy.sub.d)
Density (Fy.sub.d) (F.sub.d) A1 50% 50% 104% A2 50% 50% 104% A3 50%
50% 104% A4 50% 50% 104% A5 69% 37% 101% B1 50% 43% 88% B2 50% 43%
88% B3 50% 43% 88% B4 50% 43% 88% B5 69% 37% 101% C1 44% 44% 77% C2
44% 44% 77% C3 44% 44% 77% C4 44% 44% 77% C5 63% 42% 105% D1 44%
43% 75% D2 44% 43% 75% D3 44% 43% 75% D4 44% 43% 75% D5 63% 42%
105% E1 40% 38% 86% E3 51% 41% 120%
[0169] Weight Before Warp Contraction (Lbs Yarn Per Linear Yard of
Fabric)
8 Weight before Warp Weight before Warp Example Contraction-Warp
Contraction-Filling Example A1 0.232 0.232 Example A2 0.232 0.232
Example A3 0.232 0.232 Example A4 0.232 0.232 Example A5 0.302
0.165 Example B1 0.232 0.240 Example B2 0.232 0.240 Example B3
0.232 0.240 Example B4 0.232 0.240 Example B5 0.302 0.165 Example
C1 0.234 0.234 Example C2 0.234 0.234 Example C3 0.234 0.234
Example C4 0.234 0.234 Example C5 0.322 0.217 Example D1 0.234
0.240 Example D2 0.234 0.240 Example D3 0.234 0.240 Example D4
0.234 0.240 Example D5 0.322 0.217 Example E1 0.298 0.301 Example
E2 0.345 0.296
[0170] As can be seen from the Examples, the fabrics of the
invention have superior stretch and recovery to comparable weight
fabrics made from the same types of yarns. In addition, because the
stretch and recovery has been heat set into the fabric, it is
durable through subsequent use and laundering operations. In
addition, it was found that the fabrics have good low shrinkage
characteristics.
[0171] The fabrics of the invention can be used in any end use
where stretch and recovery characteristics would be desired,
including but not limited to apparel, home furnishings, napery,
industrial products, upholstery, shower curtains, draperies,
shades, aprons, linings, bedding, casket linings, flags, labels,
bandages, ribbons, etc.
[0172] In the specification there has been set forth a preferred
embodiment of the invention, and although specific terms are
employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense only and
not for purpose of limitation, the scope of the invention being
defined in the claims.
* * * * *