U.S. patent application number 10/203018 was filed with the patent office on 2004-10-14 for use of polyamide polymer in a mascara compostion comprising at least one inert filler.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL S.A.. Invention is credited to Ferrari, Veronique, Kolodziej, Richard, Pinzon, Carlos O., Thau, Paul.
Application Number | 20040202683 10/203018 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 11004023 |
Filed Date | 2004-10-14 |
United States Patent
Application |
20040202683 |
Kind Code |
A2 |
Ferrari, Veronique ; et
al. |
October 14, 2004 |
USE OF POLYAMIDE POLYMER IN A MASCARA COMPOSTION COMPRISING AT
LEAST ONE INERT FILLER
Abstract
A physiologically acceptable, in particular mascara, cosmetic
composition comprising at least one polymer, such as a structuring
polymer, chosen from polymers of following formula (I): 1in which n
denotes a number of amide units, such that the number of ester
groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and
amide groups; R.sup.1 is, in each case, independently an alkyl or
alkenyl group having at lease 4 carbon atoms; R.sup.2 independently
represents, in each case, a C.sub.4 to C.sub.42 hydrocarbonaceous
group, provided that 50% of the R.sup.2 groups represent a C.sub.30
to C.sub.42 hydrocarbonaceous group; R.sup.3 independently
represents, in each case, an organic group provided with at least 2
carbon atoms, with hydrogen atoms and optionally with one or more
oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R.sup.4 independently represents, in
each case, a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1 to C.sub.10 alkyl group or a
direct bond to R.sup.3 or another R.sup.4, so that the nitrogen
atom to which both R.sup.3 and R.sup.4 are bonded forms part of a
heterocyclic structure defined by R.sup.4-N-R.sup.3, with at least
50% of the R.sup.4 groups representing a hydrogen atom and at least
one inert filler.
Inventors: |
Ferrari, Veronique;
(Maisons-Alfort, FR) ; Kolodziej, Richard; (Paris,
FR) ; Pinzon, Carlos O.; (New Milford, NJ) ;
Thau, Paul; (Berkeley Heights, NJ) |
Correspondence
Address: |
FINNEGAN, HENDERSON, FARABOW, GARRETT & DUNNER LLP
1300 I STREET, NW
WASHINGTON
DC
20005
US
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL S.A.
14, rue Royale
Paris
FR
F-75008
|
Prior
Publication: |
|
Document Identifier |
Publication Date |
|
US 0161848 A1 |
July 8, 2004 |
|
|
Family ID: |
11004023 |
Appl. No.: |
10/203018 |
Filed: |
March 24, 2003 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/401; 424/64;
424/70.7 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/8111 20130101;
A61Q 1/06 20130101; A61Q 1/02 20130101; A61K 8/25 20130101; A61K
8/8152 20130101; A61K 2800/31 20130101; A61K 8/26 20130101; A61K
8/88 20130101; A61K 8/8123 20130101; A61Q 1/10 20130101; A61K
8/0241 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/401; 424/064;
424/070.7 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/025; A61K
007/06; A61K 007/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Dec 12, 2000 |
IB |
PCT/IB00/02000 |
Claims
What is Claimed is:
1. A method of making-up eyelashes comprising applying to said
eyelashes a mascara composition comprising:(i) at least one inert
filler;(ii) at least one polymer chosen from polymers of following
formula (I): 9 in which n denotes a number of amide units, such
that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the
total number of ester and amide groups; R.sup.1 is, in each case,
independently an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon
atoms; R.sup.2 independently represents, in each case, a C.sub.4 to
C.sub.42 hydrocarbonaceous group, provided that 50% of the R.sup.2
groups represent a C.sub.30 to C.sub.42 hydrocarbonaceous group;
R.sup.3 independently represents, in each case, an organic group
provided with at least 2 carbon atoms, with hydrogen atoms and
optionally with one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R.sup.4
independently represents, in each case, a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1
to C.sub.10 alkyl group or a direct bond to R.sup.3 or another
R.sup.4, so that the nitrogen atom to which both R.sup.3 and
R.sup.4 are bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined
by R.sup.4-N-R.sup.3, with at least 50% of the R.sup.4 groups
representing a hydrogen atom;(iii) water; (iv) at least one
coloring agent; and (v) at least one preservative.
2. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 1, wherein
the at least one inert filler is chosen from at least one of kaolin
and PTFE.
3. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 1, wherein
the mascara composition further comprises silica.
4. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 1, further
comprising at least one volatile solvent.
5. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 4, wherein
said at least one volatile solvent is chosen from isododecane.
6. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 1, further
comprising at least one neutralizing agent.
7. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 1, further
comprising at least one vinylpyrrolidone polymer.
8. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 1, further
comprising a liquid fatty phase structured by said at least one
polymer.
9. A method of making up eyelashes comprising applying to said
eyelashes a mascara composition comprising: (i) at least one inert
filler;(ii) at least one polymer chosen from
ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate copolymer;(iii) water; (iv)
at least one coloring agent; and (v) at least one preservative.
10. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 9, wherein
the at least one inert filler is chosen from at least one of kaolin
and PTFE.
11. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 9, wherein
the mascara composition further comprises silica.
12. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 9, further
comprising at least one volatile solvent.
13. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 12,
wherein said at least one volatile solvent is chosen from
isododecane.
14. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 9, further
comprising at least one neutralizing agent.
15. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 9, further
comprising at least one vinylpyrrolidone polymer.
16. The method of making up eyelashes according to claim 9, further
comprising a liquid fatty phase structured by said at least one
polymer.
Description
Detailed Description of the Invention
Detailed Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a care and/or treatment
and/or make-up composition for the skin, including the scalp,
and/or for the lips of human beings, and/or for other keratin
materials, such as keratinous fibers, containing a liquid fatty
phase, structured with a specific polymer containing a hetero atom.
This composition is stable over time and is especially in the form
of a make-up stick and more especially a foundation stick or a
stick of lipstick, whose application produces a migration-resistant
deposit which shows good staying power or long-wearing
properties.
[0002] The foundations currently marketed are usually either in the
form of a liquid packaged in a bottle, or in the form of a product
compacted in a case (see, for example, U.S. Patent No. 5,186,318).
These foundations may require the use of an applicator such as a
sponge, which may rapidly become contaminated and must be cleaned
very regularly, especially after each application. Thus, users of
foundations are increasingly on the lookout for solid foundations
in stick form, in order to dispense with the sponge-type
applicator. Such a foundation may be easy to use, hygienic and can
be applied until all of the product has been used up, unlike a
conventional foundation applied with a sponge. Furthermore, the
surface of the foundation may remain smooth, whereas the surface of
a product compacted in a case may become deformed under the
pressure of the successive uptakes onto the applicator. Finally, a
foundation in stick form may allow a uniform make-up effect to be
obtained.
[0003] Conventional lipsticks and concealer products are also
usually in the form of a stick, as are deodorants and lipcare or
antisun lip products.
[0004] These cosmetic or dermatological products contain a
structured liquid fatty phase, i.e., a phase which is gelled and/or
rigidified with structural agents such as waxes.
[0005] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "liquid
fatty phase" means a fatty phase which is liquid at room
temperature (25.degree.C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e
101 KPa), and comprises at least one (as used throughout herein,
the expression "at least one" means one or more and thus includes
individual components as well as mixtures/combinations) fatty
substance that is liquid at room temperature, also referred to as
an oil, that is generally mutually compatible, i.e. forming a
homogeneous phase macroscopically. The expression "liquid fatty
substance" means a non-aqueous liquid medium which is immiscible in
all proportions with water, for example, a hydrocarbon-based
compound comprising at least one carbon chain containing at least 5
carbon atoms and possibly comprising at least one polar group
chosen from carboxylic acid, hydroxyl, polyol, amine, amide,
phosphoric acid, phosphate, ester, ether, urea, carbamate, thiol,
thioether and thioester, a silicone compound optionally comprising
carbon chains at the end or pendant, these chains optionally being
substituted with a group chosen from fluoro, perfluoro, (poly)amino
acid, ether, hydroxyl, amine, acid and ester groups; or a fluoro or
perfluoro compound such as fluorohydrocarbons or
perfluorohydrocarbons containing at least 5 carbon atoms, possibly
comprising a hetero atom chosen from N, O, S and P and optionally
at least one polar function chosen from ether, ester, amine, acid,
carbamate, urea, thiol and hydroxyl groups. In practice, the total
liquid fatty phase may be present, for example, in an amount
ranging from 1 % to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition; further examples include ranges of 5% to 99%, 5%
to 95.5%, 10% to 80%, and 20% to 75%.
[0006] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax"
means a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature
(25.degree.C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 KPa),
which undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a
melting point of greater than 40.degree.C, for example greater than
55.degree.C, such as up to 200.degree.C, and having an anisotropic
crystal organization in the solid state. The size of the crystals
may be such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving
the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By
bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it
miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous
mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room
temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the
mixture is obtained, this recrystallization being responsible for
the rigidification of the liquid fatty phase.
[0007] For the purposes of the invention, the waxes are those
generally used in cosmetics and dermatology; they are, for
instance, chosen from waxes of natural origin, such as beeswax,
carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fibre
wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline
waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites and hydrogenated oils
such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, as well as waxes of synthetic
origin, for instance, polyethylene waxes derived from the
polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by
Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides that
are solid at 40.degree.C, for example at above 55.degree.C,
silicone waxes such as alkyl- and alkoxy-poly(di)methylsiloxanes
and/or poly(di)methylsiloxane esters that are solid at 40.degree.C,
for example at above 55.degree.C.
[0008] According to the invention, the melting point values may
correspond to the melting peak measured by the "Differential
Scanning Calorimetry" method with a temperature rise of 5 or
10.degree.C/min.
[0009] Unfortunately, the waxes currently used may give the
composition a greasy and oily feel and/or a greasy and lank
sensation. Furthermore, manufacturing a stick with waxes often
poses problems of reproducibility on account of the melting point
variability of the various waxes that are commercially
available.
[0010] Now, the structuring of the liquid fatty phase with waxes
makes it possible, in addition to obtaining a product in the form
of a stick, to limit the exudation of the fatty phase from the
solid compositions, especially in hot and humid regions, and to
limit, after deposition on the skin or the lips, the migration of
this phase in the wrinkles and fine lines, which is particularly
sought after for a lipstick, a concealer product or an eyeshadow.
Specifically, large migration of the liquid fatty phase, in
particular when it is charged with coloring agents, may lead to an
unpleasant appearance around the lips and the eyes, which
particularly makes the wrinkles and fine lines more prominent. This
migration is often mentioned by consumers as being a major defect
of conventional lipsticks, concealer products and eye make-ups in
stick form. The term "migration" means a running of the composition
beyond the initial application line.
[0011] The structuring of the liquid fatty phase and the limitation
of its exudation and of the migration of the deposit on the skin or
the lips may increase as the wax content increases. Thus, the
content of these structuring agents may be a constraining factor on
the comfort, reproducibility, non greasy sensation and lightness of
make-up products in stick form.
[0012] Furthermore, make-up compositions should have good staying
power or long wearing properties over time and in particular of the
color. Poor staying power is characterized by a color change
(turning, fading) or a non-uniform change in the make-up effect
over time, generally following an interaction with sebum and/or
sweat secreted by the skin, and, for the lips, an interaction with
saliva. Specifically, a composition which does not have good
staying power or long-wearing properties over time may oblige the
user to reapply the make-up regularly. However, consumers nowadays
wish to enhance the beauty of their face or body while spending as
little time as possible in doing so.
[0013] To overcome at least one of these drawbacks, the present
inventors have envisaged replacing all or some of the waxes with
polymers for structuring the liquid fatty phase, for example, of
the polyamide, polyurea or polyurethane type. Unfortunately, the
sticks obtained may have a greater or lesser tendency to exude, in
particular in a hot and humid environment, and/or to become brittle
when applied to the lips or the skin. This embrittlement may be
reflected by breakage of the stick, during its shear on
application.
[0014] Furthermore, the majority of make-up or care compositions,
when applied to the skin, the eyelashes or the lips, may have the
drawback of transferring, i.e., of being at least partly deposited
and leaving marks on certain supports with which they may come into
contact, such as a glass, a cup, a cigarette, an item of clothing
or the skin. This may result in mediocre persistence of the film
applied, making it necessary to reapply the composition regularly,
such as a foundation or a lipstick. However, as noted above, users
nowadays wish to achieve beauty enhancement of their face,
including the lips, and their body while spending as little time as
possible in doing so. Moreover, the appearance of these
unacceptable marks, e.g., on shirt collars, can put certain
consumers off using this type of make-up.
[0015] Cosmeticians have been interested in "transfer-resistant"
lipstick compositions for several years, and more recently in
"transfer-resistant" foundation compositions. Thus, in its patent
application JP-A-61-65809, the company Shiseido envisaged
"transfer-resistant" lipstick compositions containing a
siloxysilicate resin (with a three-dimensional network), a volatile
silicone oil containing a cyclic silicone chain and pulverulent
fillers. Similarly, in document JP-A-62-61911, the company Noevier
disclosed "transfer-resistant" lipstick, eyeliner and foundation
compositions comprising one or more volatile silicones combined
with one or more hydrocarbon-based waxes.
[0016] Although these compositions have improved
"transfer-resistance" properties, they have the drawback of leaving
on the lips, after the silicone oils have evaporated off, a film
which becomes uncomfortable over time (sensation of drying out the
lips and of tautness), a characteristic which puts a certain number
of consumers off using this type of lipstick.
[0017] The need thus remains for a composition which does not have
at least one of the above drawbacks, for example, which has at
least one of good mechanical and thermal stability over time, even
in hot and humid countries, and which produces a deposit on the
skin or the lips that has at least one of the following
characteristics: shows good staying power over time, does not
migrate, and does not transfer. Furthermore, this composition
should be easy to manufacture and, in an embodiment of the
invention, gives the deposit at least one of a comfortable and
non-greasy sensation, both during application and over time.
[0018] Accordingly, in one aspect, the present invention is drawn
to a care and/or make-up and/or treatment composition for the skin
and/or the lips of the face and/or for superficial body growths,
such as nails or keratinous fibres, such as hair, which may make it
possible to overcome at least one of the drawbacks mentioned above.
It is to be noted that a deodorant product is a body hygiene
product and does not relate to care, make-up or treatment of
keratin materials, including keratinous fibers, skin, or lips.
[0019] The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the use of
specific polymers combined with at least one filler may make it
possible to obtain a composition in rigid form such as a stick,
whose application to the skin or the lips produces a deposit which
has noteworthy cosmetic properties. For example, the deposit may be
at least one of supple, comfortable, light and
"migration-resistant". In addition, in the presence of volatile
solvent, the composition may show good transfer-resistance
properties.
[0020] Moreover, the composition may be stable over time, may
withstand shear during application and may not exude at room
temperature or at elevated temperature (40 to 47.degree.C
approximately); it can be heat stable. In addition, it can have a
pleasant, fondant texture and can slide easily on the skin or the
lips without being greasy.
[0021] The expression "heat stable" means a composition which does
not exude at room temperature for at least 2 months, such as, for
example, for at least 9 months, or at 37.degree.C or at 47.degree.C
for one month.
[0022] The invention applies not only to make-up products for the
lips, such as lipsticks, lip glosses and lip pencils, but also to
care and/or treatment products for the skin, including the scalp,
and for the lips, such as antisun products, for example in stick
form for facial skin or the lips, care products for the human face
or body, make-up products for the skin, both of the human face and
body, such as foundations optionally cast in stick or dish form,
concealer products, blushers, make-up removing, eyeshadows, face
powders, transfer tattoos, body hygiene products such as
deodorants, e.g., in stick form, shampoos, conditioners and make-up
products for the eyes such as eyeliners, eye pencils and mascaras,
e.g., in cake form, as well as make-up and care products for
superficial body growths, for instance keratinous fibers such as
the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, or nails.
[0023] More specifically, the present invention is drawn to a
composition containing at least one liquid fatty which comprises at
least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton which
comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising
at least one hetero atom.
[0024] The at least one liquid fatty phase further contains at
least one inert filler. The at least one liquid fatty phase, the at
least one structuring polymer and the at least one inert filler
form a physiologically acceptable medium.
[0025] In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer has
a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000. However, this
weight-average molecular mass can represent up to 500 000 and even
up to 1 000 000.
[0026] In one aspect, the present invention is drawn to a
structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase
structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a
polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based
repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom. In one
embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer further comprises
at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally functionalized,
comprising at least one chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains,
such as alkyl and alkenyl chains comprising at least 4 carbons
atoms, and further such as alkyl and alkeny chains comprising from
8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least
one linking group. The at least one structuring polymer may also
further comprise at least one pendant fatty chain, optionally
functionalized, comprising at least one chain chosen from alkyl and
alkenyl chains, such as alkyl and alkenyl chains comprising at
least 4 carbons atoms, and further such as alkyl and alkeny chains
comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to any carbon or
hetero atom of the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group.
The at least one structuring polymer may comprise both at least one
pendant fatty chain and at least one terminal fatty chain as
defined above. The at least one liquid fatty phase further contains
at least one inert filler. The at least one liquid fatty phase, the
at least one structuring polymer and the at least one inert filler
form a physiologically acceptable medium.
[0027] The composition of the invention can be in the form of a
paste, a solid or a more or less viscous cream. It can be a single
or multiple emulsion, such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil
emulsion or an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion, or a rigid or soft gel
containing an oily continuous phase. For example, the liquid fatty
phase can be the continuous phase of the composition. In one
embodiment, the composition is anhydrous. In one embodiment, the
composition is in a form cast as a stick or in a dish, for example,
solid and further example in the form of an oily rigid gel, such as
an anhydrous gel, e.g., an anhydrous stick. In a further
embodiment, the composition is in the form of an opaque or
translucent rigid gel (depending on the presence or absence of
pigments), and in a specific example, the liquid fatty phase forms
the continuous phase. In One embodiment, the composition is chosen
from molded and poured sticks.
[0028] The structuring of the liquid fatty phase can be modified
according to the nature of the polymer containing a hetero atom and
of the inert filler used, and may be such that a rigid structure in
the form of a stick with good mechanical strength is obtained. When
these sticks are colored, they may make it possible, after
application, to obtain a uniformly colored glossy deposit which
does not migrate and which has good staying power or long-wearing
properties, in particular of the color, over time.
[0029] The composition of the invention may, for example, be a
composition for the skin or the lips, such as a foundation
composition, concealer product, eyeshadow or lipstick composition,
e.g., in stick form.
Structuring polymer
[0030] In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer in
the composition of the invention is a solid that is not deformable
at room temperature (25.degree.C) and atmospheric pressure (760
mmHg, i.e. 101 KPa). In a further embodiment, the at least one
structuring polymer is capable of structuring the composition
without opacifying it. The inventors think that is due to the fact
that the polymer does not crystallise. Moreover, the structuration
of the liquid fatty phase is due to hydrogen interactions between
two molecules of polymer and/or between the polymer and the liquid
fatty phase. As defined above, the at least one structuring polymer
of the present invention comprises a polymer skeleton comprising at
least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one
hetero atom. In one embodiment, the at least one structuring
polymer further comprises at least one terminal fatty chain chosen
from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as of at least 4 atoms, and
further such as comprising 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to the
polymer skeleton via at least one linking group. The terminal fatty
chain may, for example, be functionalized. The at least one
structuring polymer may also further comprise at least one pendant
fatty chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as of at
least 4 atoms, and further such as comprising 8 to 120 carbon
atoms, bonded to any carbon or hetero atom of the polymer skeleton
via at least one linking group. The pendant fatty chain may, for
example, be functionalized. The at least one structuring polymer
may comprise both at least one pendant fatty chain and at least one
terminal fatty chain as defined above, and one or both types of
chains can be functionalized.
[0031] In one embodiment, the structuring polymer comprises at
least two hydrocarbon-based repeating units. As a further example,
the structuring polymer comprises at least three hydrocarbon-based
repeating units and as an even further example, the at least three
repeating units are identical.
[0032] As used herein, "functionalized" means comprising at least
one functional group. Non-limiting examples of functional groups
include hydroxyl groups, ether groups, oxyalkylene groups,
polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, amide
groups, halogen containing groups, including fluoro and perfluoro
groups, halogen atoms, ester groups, siloxane groups and
polysiloxane groups.
[0033] For purposes of the invention, the expression
"functionalized chain" means, for example, an alkyl chain
comprising at least one functional (reactive) group chosen, for
example, from those recited above. For example, in one embodiment,
the hydrogen atoms of at least one alkyl chain may be substituted
at least partially with fluorine atoms.
[0034] According to the invention, these chains may be linked
directly to the polymer skeleton or via an ester function or a
perfluoro group.
[0035] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means
a compound containing at least 2 repeating units, such as, for
example, a compound containing at least 3 repeating units, which
may be identical.
[0036] As used herein, the expression "hydrocarbon-based repeating
unit"includes a repeating unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon
atoms, such as, for example, from 2 to 60 carbon atoms. The at
least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may also comprise oxygen
atoms. The hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may be chosen from
saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbon-based repeating units which
in turn may be chosen from linear hydrocarbon-based repeating
units, branched hydrocarbon-based repeating units and cyclic
hydrocarbon-based repeating units. The at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise, for example, at
least one hetero atom that is part of the polymer skeleton, i.e.,
not pendant. The at least one hetero atom may be chosen, for
example, from nitrogen, sulphur, and phosphorus. For example, the
at least one hetero atom may be a nitrogen atom, such as a
non-pendant nitrogen atom. In another embodiment, the at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise at least one hetero
atom with the proviso that the at least one hetero atom is not
nitrogen. In another embodiment, the at least one hetero atom is
combined with at least one atom chosen from oxygen and carbon to
form a hetero atom group. In one embodiment, the hetero atom group
comprises a carbonyl group.
[0037] The at least one repeating unit comprising at least one
hetero atom may be chosen, for example, from amide groups,
carbamate groups, and urea groups. In one embodiment, the at least
one repeating unit comprises amide groups forming a polyamide
skeleton. In another embodiment, the at least one repeating unit
comprises carbamate groups and/or urea groups forming a
polyurethane skeleton, a polyurea skeleton and/or a
polyurethane-polyurea skeleton. The pendant chains, for example,
can be linked directly to at least one of the hetero atoms of the
polymer skeleton. In yet another embodiment, the at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise at least one hetero
atom group with the proviso that the at least one hetero atom group
is not an amide group. In one embodiment, the polymer skeleton
comprises at least one repeating unit chosen from silicone units
and oxyalkylene units, the at least one repeating unit being
between the hydrocarbon-based repeating units.
[0038] In one embodiment, the composition of the invention
comprises at least one structuring polymer with nitrogen atoms,
such as amide, urea, or carbamate units, such as amide units, and
at least one polar oil.
[0039] In one embodiment, in the at least one structuring polymer,
the percentage of the total number of fatty chains ranges from 40%
to 98% relative to the total number of repeating units and fatty
chains, and as a further example, from 50% to 95%. In a further
embodiment wherein the polymer skeleton is a polyamide skeleton, in
the at least one structuring polymer, the percentage of the total
number of fatty chains ranges from 40% to 98% relative to the total
number of all amide units and fatty chains, and as a further
example, from 50% to 95%.
[0040] In a further embodiment, the nature and proportion of the at
least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one
hetero atom depends on the nature of a liquid fatty phase of the
composition and is, for example, similar to the nature of the fatty
phase. For example, not to be limited as to theory, the more polar
the hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing a hetero atom, and
in high proportion, which corresponds to the presence of several
hetero atoms, the greater the affinity of the at least one
structuring polymer to polar oils. Conversely, the more non-polar,
or even apolar, and lesser in proportion the hydrocarbon-based
repeating units containing a hetero atom, the greater the affinity
of the polymer for apolar oils.
[0041] In another embodiment, the invention is drawn to a
structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase
structured with at least one structuring polymer, wherein said at
least one structuring polymer is a polyamide comprising a polymer
skeleton comprising at least one amide repeating unit and
optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and/or at least one
terminal chain that are optionally functionalized and comprising at
least one chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as alkyl
and alkenyl chains comprising at least 4 carbons atoms, and further
such as alkyl and alkeny chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon
atoms, bonded to at least one of the amide repeating units via at
least one linking group. The liquid fatty phase further contains at
least one inert filler for thickening the liquid fatty phase. The
at least one liquid fatty phase, the at least one structuring
polyamide and the at least one inert filler together form a
physiologically acceptable medium.
[0042] When the structuring polymer has amide repeating units, the
pendant fatty chains may be linked to at least one of the nitrogen
atoms in the amide repeating units.
[0043] The structuring polymer, for example the polyamide polymer,
may have a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000, such
as less than 50,000. In another embodiment, the weight-average
molecular mass may range from 1000 to 30,000, such as from 2000 to
20,000, further such as from 2000 to 10,000.
[0044] The structuring polymer, as form example the polyamide
polymer, is non soluble in water or in aqueous phase. In another
embodiment the structuring polymer has non ionic group.
[0045] As discussed, the at least one structuring polymer may, for
example, be chosen from polyamide polymers. A polyamide polymer may
comprise, for example, a polymer skeleton which comprises at least
one amide repeating unit, i.e., a polyamide skeleton. In one
embodiment, the polyamide skeleton may further comprise at least
one terminal fatty chain chosen from alkyl chains, for example,
alkyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, and alkenyl
chains, for example, alkenyl chains comprising at least four carbon
atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least
one linking group, and/or at least one pendant fatty chain chosen
from alkyl chains, for example, alkyl chains comprising at least
four carbon atoms, and alkenyl chains, for example, alkenyl chains
comprising at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one
polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group. In one
embodiment, the polyamide skeleton may comprise at least one
terminal fatty chain chosen from fatty chains comprising 8 to 120
carbon atoms, such as, for example, 12 to 68 carbon atoms, bonded
to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking
group and/or at least one pendant fatty chain chosen from fatty
chains comprising 8 to 120 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 12
to 68 carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton
via at least one linking group, such as bonded to any carbon or
nitrogen of the polyamide skeleton via said at least one linking
group. In one embodiment, the at least one linking group is chosen
from single bonds and urea, urethane, thiourea, thiourethane,
thioether, thioester, ester, ether and amine groups. In another
embodiment, the linking groups are chosen from ureas, esters, and
amines, and as a further example, from esters and amines. The bond
is, for example, an ester bond. In one embodiment, these polymers
comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polymer skeleton, such as
the polyamide skeleton.
[0046] In one embodiment, due to the presence of at least one
chain, the polyamide polymers may be readily soluble in oils (i.e.,
water-immiscible liquid compounds) and thus may give
macroscopically homogeneous compositions even with a high content
(at least 25%) of the polyamide polymers, unlike certain polymers
of the prior art that do not contain such alkyl or alkenyl chains
at the end of the polyamide skeleton. As defined herein, a
composition is soluble if it has a solubility of greater than 0.01
g per 100 ml of solution at 25.degree.C.
[0047] In a further embodiment, the polyamide polymers can be
chosen from polymers resulting from at least one polycondensation
reaction between at least one acid chosen from dicarboxylic acids
comprising at least 32 carbon atoms, such as 32 to 44 carbon atoms,
and at least one amine chosen from diamines comprising at least 2
carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 36 carbon atoms, and triamines
comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 36 carbon
atoms. The at least one dicarboxylic acid can, for example, be
chosen from dimers of at least one fatty acid comprising at least
16 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic
acid. The at least one amine can, for example, be chosen from
diamines, such as ethylenediamine, hexylenediamine,
hexamethylenediamine, phenylenediamine and triamines, such as
ethylenetriamine.
[0048] The polyamide polymers may also be chosen from polymers
comprising at least one terminal carboxylic acid group. The at
least one terminal carboxylic acid group can, for example, be
esterified with at least one alcohol chosen from monoalcohols
comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. For example, the at least one
alcohol can be chosen from monoalcohols comprising from 10 to 36
carbon atoms. In a further embodiment, the monoalcohols can
comprise from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as from 16 to 24 carbon
atoms, and for example 18 carbon atoms.
[0049] In one embodiment, the at least one polyamide polymer may be
chosen from those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,783,657, the
disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference, which are
polyamide polymers of formula (I):
[0050] 2
[0051] in which:
[0052] - n is an integer which represents the number of amide units
such that the number of ester groups present in said at least one
polyamide polymer ranges from 10% to 50% of the total number of all
said ester groups and all said amide groups comprised in the at
least one polyamide polymer:
[0053] - R.sup.1, which are identical or different, are each chosen
from alkyl groups comprising at least 4 carbon atoms and alkenyl
groups comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. In one embodiment, the
alkyl group comprises from 4 to 24 carbon atoms and the alkenyl
group comprises from 4 to 24 carbon atoms;
[0054] - R.sup.2, which are identical or different, are each chosen
from C.sub.4 to C.sub.42 hydrocarbon-based groups with the proviso
that at least 50% of all R.sup.2 are chosen from C.sub.30 to
C.sub.42 hydrocarbon-based groups;
[0055] - R.sup.3, which are identical or different, are each chosen
from organic groups comprising atoms chosen from carbon atoms,
hydrogen atoms, oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms with the proviso
that R.sup.3 comprises at least 2 carbon atoms; and
[0056] - R.sup.4, which are identical or different, are each chosen
from hydrogen atoms, C.sub.1 to C.sub.10 alkyl groups and a direct
bond to at least one group chosen from R.sup.3 and another R.sup.4
such that when said at least one group is chosen from another
R.sub.4, the nitrogen atom to which both R.sup.3 and R.sup.4 are
bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined in part by
R.sup.4-N-R.sup.3, with the proviso that at least 50% of all
R.sub.4 are chosen from hydrogen atoms.
[0057] In the polymer of formula (I), the terminal fatty chains
that are optionally functionalized for the purposes of the
invention are terminal chains linked to the last hetero atom, in
this case nitrogen, of the polyamide skeleton.
[0058] In one embodiment, the ester groups of formula (I), which
form part of the terminal and/or pendant fatty chains for the
purposes of the invention, are present in an amount ranging from
15% to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups (i.e.
hetero atom groups), such as from 20% to 35%.
[0059] In formula (I), in one embodiment, n may be an integer
ranging from 1 to 10, from example from 1 to 5, and as further for
example an integer ranging from 3 to 5. In the present invention,
R.sup.1, which are identical or different, can, for example, each
be chosen from C.sub.12 to C.sub.22 alkyl groups, such as from
C.sub.16 to C.sub.22 alkyl groups.
[0060] In the present invention, R.sup.2, which are identical or
different, can, for example, each be chosen from C.sub.10 to
C.sub.42 hydrocarbon-based, e.g., alkylene groups. At least 50% of
all R.sup.2, for example at least 75% of all R.sup.2, which are
identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from
groups comprising from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. In the two
aforementioned embodiments, the remaining R.sup.2, which are
identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from
C.sub.4 to C.sub.18 groups, such as C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 groups.
[0061] R.sup.3, which can be identical or different, can, for
example, each be chosen from C.sub.2 to C.sub.36 hydrocarbon-based
groups and polyoxyalkylene groups. In another example, R.sup.3,
which can be identical or different, can each, for example, be
chosen from C.sub.2 to C.sub.12 hydrocarbon-based groups. In
another embodiment, R.sup.4, which can be identical or different,
can each be chosen from hydrogen atoms.
[0062] As used herein, hydrocarbon-based groups may be chosen from
linear, cyclic and branched, and saturated and unsaturated groups.
The hydrocarbon-based groups can be chosen from aliphatic and
aromatic groups. In one example, the hydrocarbon-based groups are
chosen from aliphatic groups. The alkyl and alkylene groups may be
chosen from linear, cyclic and branched, and saturated and
unsaturated groups.
[0063] In general, the pendant and terminal fatty chains may be
chosen from linear, cyclic and branched, and saturated and
unsaturated groups. The pendant and terminal fatty chains can be
chosen from aliphatic and aromatic groups. In one example, the
pendant and terminal fatty chains are chosen from aliphatic
groups.
[0064] According to the invention, the structuring of the liquid
fatty phase is obtained with the aid of at least one structuring
polymer, such as the at least one polymer of formula (I). The at
least one polyamide polymer of formula (I) may, for example, be in
the form of a mixture of polymers, and this mixture may also
comprise a compound of formula (I) wherein n is equal to zero,
i.e., a diester.
[0065] Non-limiting examples of an at least one polyamide polymer
which may be used in the composition according to the present
invention include the commercial products sold or made by Arizona
Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. These are
sold, respectively, in the form of an 80% (in terms of active
material) gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (in terms of active
material) gel. These polymers have a softening point ranging from
88.degree.C to 94.degree.C, and may be mixtures of copolymers
derived from monomers of (i) C.sub.36 diacids and (ii)
ethylenediamine, and have a weight-average molecular mass of about
6000. Terminal ester groups result from esterification of the
remaining acid end groups with at least one alcohol chosen from
cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. A mixture of cetyl and stearyl
alcohols is sometimes called cetylstearyl alcohol.
[0066] Other non-limiting examples of an at least one polyamide
polymer which may be used in the composition according to the
present invention include polyamide polymers (or polyamide resins)
resulting from the condensation of at least one aliphatic
dicarboxylic acid and at least one diamine, the carbonyl and amine
groups being condensed via an amide bond. In one embodiment, these
polymers contain more than two carbonyl groups and more than two
amine groups. Examples of these polyamide polymers are those sold
or made under the brand name Versamid by the companies General
Mills Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the
company Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp. under the brand name Onamid,
in particular Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight-average
molecular mass ranging from 6000 to 9000. For further information
regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to U.S. Patent
Nos. 3,645,705 and 3,148,125, the disclosures of which are hereby
incorporated by reference. In one embodiment, Versamid 930 or 744
may be used.
[0067] Other examples of polyamides include those sold or made by
the company Arizona Chemical under the references Uni-Rez (2658,
2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623 and 2662) and the
product sold or made under the reference Macromelt 6212 by the
company Henkel. For further information regarding these polyamides,
reference may be made to U.S. Patent No. 5,500,209, the disclosure
of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Such polyamides
display high melt viscosity characteristics. MACROMELT 6212, for
example, has a high melt viscosity at 190.degree.C of 30-40 poise
(as measured by a Brookfield Viscometer, Model RVF #3 spindle, 20
RPM).
[0068] In a further embodiment, the at least one polyamide polymer
may be chosen from polyamide resins from vegetable sources.
Polyamide resins from vegetable sources may be chosen from, for
example, the polyamide resins of U.S. Patent Nos. 5,783,657 and
5,998,570, the disclosures of which are herein incorporated by
reference.
[0069] The at least one structuring polymer in the compositions of
the invention may have a softening point greater than 50.degree.C
such as from 65.degree.C to 190.degree.C, preferably less than
150.degree.C and further such as from 70.degree.C to 130.degree.C,
and even further such as from 80.degree.C to 105.degree.C. This
softening point may be lower than that of structuring polymers used
in the art which may facilitate the use of the at least one
structuring polymer of the present invention and may limit the
degradation of the liquid fatty phase. These polymers may be non
waxy polymers. The softening point can be measured by a well known
method as Differential Scanning Calorimetry (i.e. DSC method) with
a temperature rise of 5 to 10.degree.C/min.
[0070] In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer in
the composition according to the invention corresponds to the
polyamide polymers of formula (I). Due to fatty chain(s), these
polymers may be readily soluble in oils and thus lead to
compositions that are macroscopically homogeneous even with a high
content (at least 25%) of at least one structuring polymer, unlike
polymers not containing a fatty chain.
[0071] The at least one structuring polymer may be present in the
composition in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.5% to 80% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as for
example 2% to 60%, and further, for example, from 5 to 40%. In a
further embodiment the at least one structuring polymer may be
present in the composition in an amount ranging, for example, from
5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0072] In one embodiment, when the at least one structuring polymer
of the present invention comprises a urea urethane having the
following formula:
[0073] R-O-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-NH-R"-NH-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-OR
[0074] then R represents C.sub.nH.sub.2n+1, wherein n represents an
integer having a value greater than 22, for example from 23 to 120,
and further, for example from 23 to 68, or C.sub.mH.sub.2m+1
(OC.sub.pH.sub.2p).sub.r -, wherein m represents an integer having
a value of greater than 18, for example from 19 to 120, and
further, for example, from 23 to 68, p represents an integer having
a value of from 2 to 4, and r represents an integer having a value
of from 1 to 10,
[0075] R' represents:
[0076] 3
[0077] and R" represents:
[0078] 4
[0079] In another embodiment of the invention, the present
invention is drawn to a structured composition comprising at least
one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring
polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom, wherein the at least one structuring polymer further
comprises at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally
functionalized, chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as alkyl
and alkenyl chains having at least four carbon atoms, and further
such as alkyl and alkenyl chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon
atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least one linking
group chosen from amides, ureas, and esters, wherein when said at
least one linking group is chosen from esters, said at least one
terminal fatty chain is chosen from branched alkyl groups. The at
least one structuring polymer may also comprise at least one
pendant fatty chain, optionally functionalized, chosen from alkyl
and alkenyl chains, such as alkyl and alkenyl chains having at
least four carbon atoms, and further such as alkyl and alkenyl
chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to any carbon
or hetero atom of the polymer skeleton via at least one linking
group chosen from amides, ureas, and esters, wherein when said at
least one linking group is chosen from esters, said at least one
terminal fatty chain is chosen from branched alkyl groups. The at
least one structuring polymer may comprise both at least one
pendant fatty chain and at least one terminal fatty chain as
defined above in this paragraph.
[0080] Further, an embodiment of the invention relates to a skin,
lip, or keratinous fiber care or make-up composition comprising a
structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase
structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a
polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based
repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom and at least one
inert filler.
[0081] Additionally, an embodiment of the invention relates to a
skin, lip, or keratinous fiber care or make-up composition
comprising a structured composition containing at least one liquid
fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer
comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom, at least one inert filler, and at least one coloring
agent.
[0082] Additionally, an embodiment of the invention relates to a
method of making up skin, lips or keratinous fibers or caring for
skin, lips keratinous fibers or treating skin, lips or keratinous
fibers comprising applying to said skin, lips, or keratinous fibers
a structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase
structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a
polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based
repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom and at least one
inert filler.
Inert Filler
[0083] According to the invention, the composition contains at
least one inert filler. The term "filler" means any particle that
is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, used alone
or in combination, which does not react chemically with the various
ingredients of the composition and which is insoluble in these
ingredients, even when these ingredients are raised to a
temperature above room temperature and in particular to their
softening point or their melting point.
[0084] The at least one inert filler has a melting point at least
greater than 150.degree.C, for example greater than 170.degree.C
and further as for example, greater than 200.degree.C. The at least
one inert filler may or may not be absorbent, i.e., capable in
particular of absorbing the oils of the composition and also the
biological substances secreted by the skin. The absorbent fillers
often have the property of making the deposit of composition on the
keratin materials matte, which is particularly desired for a
foundation and a concealer product. In one embodiment, the at least
one inert filler may have an apparent diameter ranging from 0.01 m
to 150 m, such as from 0.5 m to 120 m, for example from 1 m to 80
m. An apparent diameter corresponds to the diameter of the circle
into which the elementary particle fits along its shortest
dimension (thickness for leaflets).
[0085] The at least one inert filler may be present in the
inventive composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40%
relative to the weight of the total composition, such as from 2% to
30%, and, for example, from 5% to 20%.
[0086] The at least one inert filler may be mineral or organic, and
lamellar, spherical or oblong. The at least one inert filler may be
chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as
Nylon.sup..RTM. (Orgasol.sup..RTM. from Atochem) powder,
poly--alanine powder, polyethylene powder, acrylic polymer powder
and in particular polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powder, for
instance the product sold or made by Wacker under the reference
Covabead LH-85 (particle size 10-12 m) or acrylic acid copolymer
powder (Polytrap.sup..RTM. from Dow Corning),
polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon.sup..RTM.) powders, lauroyllysine,
boron nitride, starch, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of
polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance
Expancel.sup..RTM. (Nobel Industrie), hollow polymer microspheres
(Tospearl.sup..RTM. from Toshiba, for example), precipitated
calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate,
hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads.sup..RTM.
from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules and polyester
particles. The at least one inert filler may be surface-treated,
e.g., to make them lipophilic.
[0087] The at least one inert filler may be porous so as to absorb
the sweat and/or sebum secreted by the skin. Such inert fillers
include silica, polyethylene powder, polyamide (Nylon.sup..RTM.)
powder, kaolin, starch derivatives and Polytrap.sup..RTM..
[0088] In order to minimize the exudation of the composition in
cast form, the at least one inert filler used in the composition
may contain a chemical group of the same chemical nature as those
of the units of the structuring polymer or a chemical group capable
of forming physical bonds of the same type as that of the units of
the polymer (for example, chosen from self-complementary hydrogen
bonds, interactions between unsaturated rings or filter-transfer
interactions, dipolar interactions, and coordination bonds with
organometallic derivatives). Thus, for structuring polymers
containing units of the amide, urea and/or urethane type, the at
least one inert filler used may contain groups capable of forming
hydrogen bonds, like these structuring polymers. As fillers capable
of forming hydrogen bonds, mention may be made of fillers or
particles of acrylic polymer such as PMMA for instance the product
sold by Wacker under the reference Covabead LH-85 (particle size
10-12 m) and Polytrap.sup..RTM. sold or made by Dow Corning,
hydrophobic-treated silica, polyamide (Nylon.sup..RTM.) powders
(Orgasol.sup..RTM. from Atochem), and mixtures thereof. For units
of the ester type, the fillers used may be of the polyester
type.
[0089] The surface of the silica may be chemically modified, by
hydrophobic chemical treatments, giving rise to a decrease in the
number of silanol groups. The hydrophobic groups may be:
[0090] -trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained, for example,
by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane.
Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate" according to
the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, or made for example,
under the references "Aerosil R812.RTM." by the company Degussa and
"CAB-O-SIL TS-530.RTM." by the company Cabot;
[0091] - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which
are obtained, for example, by treating fumed silica in the presence
of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus
treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the
CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are made or sold, for example, under
the references "Aerosil R972.sup..RTM." and "Aerosil
R974.sup..RTM." by the company Degussa, and "CAB-O-SIL TS-610.RTM."
and "CAB-O-SIL TS-720.RTM." by the company Cabot;
[0092] - groups derived from reacting fumed silica with silane
alkoxides or siloxanes. These treated silicas are, for example, the
products made or sold under the reference "Aerosil R805.sup..RTM."
by the company Degussa.
[0093] According to the invention, a hydrophobic silica, such as a
fumed silica, may be used as lipophilic gelling agent or
rheological agent. The use of fumed silica may make it possible to
obtain a translucent or even transparent composition, in particular
in the form of a stick which does not exude, in the absence of
opacifying particles such as waxes, fillers and pigments (including
nacres).
[0094] In one embodiment, the filler is lipophilic or traited to be
lipophilic.
Amphiphilic Compound
[0095] The at least one structuring polymer and the at least one
inert filler can be combined with at least one amphiphilic compound
that is liquid and non-volatile at room temperature and has a
hydrophilic/lipophilic balance (HLB) value of less than 12, for
example ranging from 1 to 8 or from 1 to 5. These amphiphilic
compounds may act to reinforce the structuring properties of the
polymer containing at least one hetero atom, to facilitate the
implementation of the polymer and to improve the ability of the
stick to be deposited. However, it is possible to obtain a stick
with good mechanical and/or thermal properties without including at
least one amphiphilic compound.
[0096] Depending on the intended application, such as a stick,
hardness of the composition may also be considered. The hardness of
a composition may, for example, be expressed in gramforce (gf). The
composition of the present invention may, for example, have a
hardness ranging from 20 gf to 2000 gf, such as from 20 gf to 900
gf, and further such as from 20 gf to 600 gf.
[0097] This hardness is measured in one of two ways. A first test
for hardness is according to a method of penetrating a probe into
said composition and in particular using a texture analyzer (for
example TA-XT2i from Rheo) equipped with an ebonite cylinder of
height 25 mm and diameter 8 mm. The hardness measurement is carried
out at 20.degree.C at the center of 5 samples of said composition.
The cylinder is introduced into each sample of composition at a
pre-speed of 2 mm/s and then at a speed of 0.5 mm/s and finally at
a post-speed of 2 mm/s, the total displacement being 1 mm. The
recorded hardness value is that of the maximum peak observed. The
measurement error is .+-.50gf.
[0098] The second test for hardness is the "cheese wire" method,
which involves cutting an 8.1 mm or preferably 12.7 mm in diameter
stick of composition and measuring its hardness at 20.degree.C
using a DFGHS 2 tensile testing machine from Indelco-Chatillon Co.
at a speed of 100 mm/minute. The hardness value from this method is
expressed in grams as the shear force required to cut a stick under
the above conditions. According to this method, the hardness of
compositions according to the present invention which may be in
stick form may, for example, range from 30 gf to 300 gf, such as
from 30 gf to 250 gf, and further such as from 30 gf to 200 gf.
[0099] The hardness of the composition of the present invention may
be such that the compositions are self-supporting and can easily
disintegrate to form a satisfactory deposit on a keratinous
material. In addition, this hardness may impart good impact
strength to the inventive compositions which may be molded or cast,
for example, in stick or dish form. The composition of the
invention may be a solid, in the form of molded or poured
sticks.
[0100] The skilled artisan may choose to evaluate a composition
using at least one of the tests for hardness outlined above based
on the application envisaged and the hardness desired. If one
obtains an acceptable hardness value, in view of the intended
application, from at least one of these hardness tests, the
composition falls within the scope of the invention.
[0101] As is evident, the hardness of the composition according to
the invention may, for example, be such that the composition is
advantageously self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form
a satisfactory deposit on the skin and/or the lips and/or
superficial body growths, such, as keratinous fibres. In addition,
with this hardness, the composition of the invention may have good
impact strength.
[0102] According to the invention, the composition in stick form
may have the behavior of a deformable, flexible elastic solid,
giving noteworthy elastic softness on application. The compositions
in stick form of the prior art do not have these properties of
elasticity and flexibility.
[0103] The at least one amphiphilic compound which can be used in
the composition of the invention may, for example, comprise a
lipophilic part linked to a polar part, the lipophilic part
comprising a carbon-based chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms,
for example from 18 to 32 carbon atoms or from 18 to 28 carbon
atoms. The polar part of the at least one amphiphilic compound may,
in one embodiment, be the residue of a compound chosen from
alcohols and polyols containing from 1 to 12 hydroxyl groups, and
polyoxyalkylenes comprising at least 2 oxyalkylene units and
containing from 0 to 20 oxypropylene units and/or from 0 to 20
oxyethylene units. For example, the at least one amphiphilic
compound may be an ester chosen from the hydroxystearates, oleates
and isostearates of glycerol, of sorbitan and of methylglucose, and
from branched C.sub.12 to C.sub.26 fatty alcohols such as
octyldodecanol. Among these esters, monoesters and mixtures of
mono- and diesters can also be used.
[0104] The respective contents of the at least one lipophilic inert
filler, the at least one polymer containing a hetero atom and
optionally that of at least one amphiphilic compound are chosen
according to the desired hardness of the composition and as a
function of the specific application envisaged. The respective
amounts of polymer, of inert filler and of amphiphilic compound
should be such that they produce a stick which can be worn down. In
practice, the amount of the at least one polymer may be chosen from
0.5% to 80% of the total weight of the composition, for example
from 2% to 60%, from 5% to 40%, and from 5% to 25%. The amount of
at least one amphiphilic compound in practice, if it is present,
may be chosen from 0.1% to 35% of the total weight of the
composition, for example from 1% to 20% or from 1% to 15%.
[0105] The at least one structuring polymer has an affinity with
the fatty phase and in particular with a chemical portion of one of
the oils forming the liquid fatty phase of the composition so that
physical links with the oils, such as hydrogen bonds, or as
above-mentioned, are formed.
Liquid Fatty Phase
[0106] The at least one liquid fatty phase, in one embodiment, may
comprise at least one oil. In one embodiment, at least one oil has
an affinity with the structuring polymer. The at least one oil, for
example, may be chosen from polar oils and apolar oils including
hydrocarbon-based liquid oils and oily liquids at room temperature.
In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at
least one structuring polymer and at least one polar oil. The polar
oils of the invention, for example, may be added to the apolar
oils, the apolar oils acting in particular as co-solvent for the
polar oils.
[0107] According to the invention, the structuring of the at least
one liquid fatty phase may be obtained with the aid of at least one
structuring polymer, such as the polymer of formula (I). In
general, the polymers of formula (I) may be in the form of mixtures
of polymers, these mixtures also possibly containing a synthetic
product corresponding to a compound of formula (I) in which n is 0,
i.e., a diester.
[0108] The liquid fatty phase of the composition may contain more
than 30%, for example, more than 40%, of liquid oil(s) having a
chemical nature close to the chemical nature of the skeleton
(hydrocarbon or silicone based) of the structuring polymer, and for
example from 50% to 100%. In one embodiment, the liquid fatty phase
structured with a polyamide-type skeleton, or polyurea, or
polyurethane, or polyurea-urethane-type skeleton contains a high
quantity, i.e., greater than 30%, for example greater than 40%
relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase, or from 50%
to 100%, of at least one apolar, such as hydrocarbon-based, oil.
For the purposes of the invention, the expression
"hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil comprising carbon and hydrogen
atoms, optionally with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl,
ester, carboxyl and ether groups.
[0109] For a liquid fatty phase structured with a polymer
containing a partially silicone-based skeleton, this fatty phase
may contain more than 30%, for example, more than 40%, relative to
the total weight of the liquid fatty phase and, for example, from
50% to 100%, of at least one silicone-based liquid oil, relative to
the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.
[0110] For a liquid fatty phase structured with an apolar polymer
of the hydrocarbon-based type, this fatty phase may contain more
than 30%, for example more than 40% by weight, and, as a further
example, from 50% to 100% by weight, of at least one liquid apolar,
such as hydrocarbon-based, oil, relative to the total weight of the
liquid fatty phase.
[0111] For example, the at least one polar oil useful in the
invention may be chosen from:
[0112] - hydrocarbon-based plant oils with a high content of
triglycerides comprising fatty acid esters of glycerol in which the
fatty acids may have varied chain lengths from C.sub.4 to C.sub.24,
these chains possibly being chosen from linear and branched, and
saturated and unsaturated chains; these oils can be chosen from,
for example, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, karite
butter, castor oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot oil,
soybean oil, cotton oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil,
sesame oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil,
grape seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet
oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil,
candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or
alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold
by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810,
812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel;
[0113] - synthetic oils or esters of formula R.sub.5COOR.sub.6 in
which R.sub.5 is chosen from linear and branched fatty acid
residues containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R.sub.6 is chosen
from, for example, a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to
40 carbon atoms, on condition that R.sub.5 + R.sub.6 10, such as,
for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl
isononanoate, C.sub.12-C.sub.15 alkyl benzoates, isopropyl
myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate and alkyl
or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates; hoydroxylated
esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; and
pentaerythritol esters;
[0114] - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon
atoms;
[0115] - C.sub.8 to C.sub.26 fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol;
and
[0116] - C.sub.8 to C.sub.26 fatty acids such as oleic acid,
linolenic acid or linoleic acid.
[0117] The at least one apolar oil according to the invention is
chosen from, for example, silicone oils chosen from volatile and
non-volatile, linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that
are liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising
alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and/or at the end of the
silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon
atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl
dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl
dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and
2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; hydrocarbons chosen from
linear and branched, volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbons of
synthetic and mineral origin, such as volatile liquid paraffins
(such as isoparaffins and isododecane) or non-volatile liquid
paraffins and derivatives thereof, liquid petrolatum, liquid
lanolin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as
hydrogenated polybutene, e.g. Parleam.sup..RTM., from Nippon Oil
Fats and squalane; and mixtures thereof. The structured oils, for
example those structured with polyamides such as those of formula
(I) or with polyurethanes, poiyureas, potyurea-urethanes, in
accordance with the invention, may be, in one embodiment, apolar
oils, such as an oil or a mixture of hydrocarbon oils chosen from
those of mineral and synthetic origin, chosen from hydrocarbons
such as alkanes such as Parleam.sup..RTM. oil, isoparaffins
including isododecane, and squalane, and mixtures thereof. These
oils may, in one embodiment, be combined with at least one
phenylsilicone oil.
[0118] The liquid fatty phase, in one embodiment, contains at least
one non-volatile oil chosen from, for example, hydrocarbon-based
oils of mineral, plant and synthetic origin, synthetic esters or
ethers, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
[0119] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "volatile
solvent or oil" means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating
on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour at room
temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent(s) of
the invention is(are) organic solvents, such as volatile cosmetic
oils that are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor
pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in
particular from 10.sup.-2 to 300 mmHg (1.3 to 40 000 Pa) and, for
example, greater than 0.03 mmHg (4 Pa) and further example greater
than 0.3 mmHg (40 Pa). The expression "non-volatile oil" means an
oil which remains on the skin or the lips at room temperature and
atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, such as those
having a vapor pressure of less than 10.sup.-2 mmHg (1.3 Pa).
[0120] According to the invention, these volatile solvents (or
oils) may facilitate the staying power or long wearing properties
over time and also the transfer-resistance properties of the
composition on the skin, the lips or superficial body growths such
as nails and keratinous fibers. Thus, the composition may contain
at least one volatile solvent, such as at least one volatile oil.
This at least one volatile solvent can be chosen from
hydrocarbon-based solvents, silicone solvents optionally comprising
alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendent or at the end of a silicone
chain, fluoro solvents, and mixtures thereof. The
transfer-resistance properties are the ability of a deposit of the
composition on the skin, the lips or superficial body growths not
to become deposited onto a support placed in contact with the said
deposit. These transfer-resistance properties are particularly
advantageous when the composition contains coloring agents, which
is especially the case for make-up compositions.
[0121] As volatile PDMSs which can be used in the invention,
mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having a
viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and containing,
for example, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally
comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups comprising from 1 to 10 carbon
atoms. Volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention may
be chosen from octamethylcyclotetrasilox- ane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane,
heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane,
hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane,
decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures
thereof.
[0122] As volatile hydrocarbons which can be used in the invention,
mention may be made of hydrocarbons comprising from 8 to 16 carbon
atoms, and mixtures thereof, for example branched C.sub.8-C.sub.16
alkanes such as C.sub.8-C.sub.16 isoalkanes (also known as
isoparaffins), for instance of petroleum origin, isododecane,
isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the
trade names Isopars or Permetyls, and mixtures thereof.
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate and
mixtures thereof can also be used. The at least one volatile oil
may be, in one embodiment, chosen from hydrocarbons comprising from
8 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0123] The at least one volatile solvent may represent a mass
content up to 97.5% relative to the total weight of the
composition, such as from 1% to 75% or 10% to 60%, for example from
20% to 60%. In general, the at least one volatile solvent should be
present in an amount that is sufficient to obtain
transfer-resistance properties and should be adapted by a person
skilled in the art as a function of the desired intensity for these
transfer-resistance properties.
[0124] This amount can be also adapted by a person skilled in the
art according to the desired staying power or long wearing
properties.
[0125] The at least one liquid fatty phase of the composition of
the invention may further comprises a dispersion of lipid vesicles.
The composition of the invention may also, for example, be in the
form of a fluid anhydrous gel, a rigid anhydrous gel, a fluid
simple emulsion, a fluid multiple emulsion, a rigid simple emulsion
or a rigid multiple emulsion. The simple emulsion or multiple
emulsion may comprise a continuous phase chosen from an aqueous
phase optionally containing dispersed lipid vesicles, or a fatty
phase optionally containing dispersed lipid vesicies. In one
embodiment, the composition has a continuous oily phase or fatty
phase and is more specifically an anhydrous composition, for
example, a stick or dish form. An anhydrous composition is one that
has less than 10% water by weight, such as, for example, less than
5% by weight.
Additional Additives
[0126] The composition of the invention can also comprise any
additional additive usually used in the field under consideration,
such as cosmetics or dermatology, chosen, for example, from
antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, waxes,
fatty compounds that are pasty or viscous at room temperature,
neutralizing agents, gums, liposoluble or lipodispersible gelling
agents, liposoluble polymers or polymers that are dispersible in
the medium, cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as, for
example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids,
dispersants such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), coloring agents
and mixtures thereof. These additives, if present, may each be
present in the composition in a proportion of up to 20%, for
example from 0.01% to 20%, and, as a further example, from 0.01% to
10% relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0127] The composition of the invention can also contain, as an
additional additive, an aqueous phase containing water that is
optionally thickened with an aqueous-phase thickener or gelled with
a hydrophilic gelling agent and/or containing ingredients soluble
in water and/or optionally water-miscible compounds. The water can
represents from 0.01% to 70%. For a water-in-oil or oil-in-water
emulsion, from 2% to 70% by weight of water, for example from 5% to
50% can be used.
[0128] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care
to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount
thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition
according to the invention are not, or are not substantially,
adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
[0129] The composition according to the invention can be in the
form of a tinted or non tinted dermatological composition or care
composition for keratin materials such as the skin, the lips and/or
superficial body growths, such as keratinous fibers, in the form of
an antisun composition or body hygiene composition, such as in the
form of a deodorant product or make-up-removing product in stick
form. It can be used, for example, as a care base for the skin,
superficial body growths or the lips, for example, lip balms, for
protecting the lips against cold and/or sunlight and/or the wind,
or care cream for the skin, the nails or the hair.
[0130] The composition of the invention may also be in the form of
a colored make-up product for the skin, such as a foundation,
optionally having care or treating properties, a blusher, a face
powder, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, an eyeliner, a make-up
product for the body; a make-up product for the lips such as a
lipstick, optionally having care or treating properties; a make-up
product for superficial body growths such as the nails, the
eyelashes, for example in the form of a mascara cake, or for the
eyebrows and the hair, for example in the form of a pencil.
[0131] Needless to say, the composition of the invention should be
cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., it should
contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be
able to be applied to the skin, superficial body growths or the
lips of human beings. For the purposes of the invention, the
expression "cosmetically acceptable" means a composition of
pleasant appearance, odour, feel and taste.
[0132] The composition may also contain at least one cosmetic
active agent and/or at least one dermatological active agent, i.e.,
an agent having a beneficial effect on the skin, lips or body
growths, and/or at least one coloring agent.
[0133] In one embodiment, the composition does not contain
sensitizing agents, such as colophony.
Coloring agents
[0134] The coloring agent according to the invention may be chosen
from the lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacreous
pigments (i.e. nacres) usually used in cosmetic or dermatological
compositions, and mixtures thereof. This coloring agent can
generally be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% relative
to the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.5% to
40%, and, as a further example, from 5% to 30%, if it is present.
In the case of a composition in the form of a free or compacted
powder, the amount of coloring agent in the form of solid particles
that are insoluble in the medium (nacres and/or pigments) may be up
to 90% relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0135] The liposoluble dyes include, for example, Sudan Red,
D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan
Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5,
quinoline yellow and annatto. They can be present in an amount
ranging from 0.1% to 20% of the weight of the composition, for
example from 0.1% to 6% (if present). The water-soluble dyes are,
for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue, and can represent up
to 6% of the total weight of the composition.
[0136] The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or
organic, and coated or uncoated and having a micron size or not.
Among the mineral pigments which may be mentioned are titanium
dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or
cerium oxide, as well as iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese
violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among
the organic pigments which may be mentioned are carbon black,
pigments of D&C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or
on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium. The pigment(s) can be
present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50%, for example from
0.5% to 40%, and, as a further example, from 2% to 30% relative to
the total weight of the composition, if they are present.
[0137] The nacreous pigments may be chosen from white nacreous
pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth
oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with
iron oxides, titanium mica with, for example, ferric blue or
chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the type
mentioned above, as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth
oxychloride or alternatively interferential or goniochromatic
pigments. They can be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20%
relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from
0.1% to 15%, if they are present, and may or may not be
surface-treated.
[0138] In one embodiment, the coloring agent are pigments (nacreous
or not).
Waxes
[0139] The composition can optionally contain at least one wax to
improve the structuring in stick form, although this rigid form can
be obtained in the absence of wax. The composition may contain
little or no wax, for example, less than 5% wax. The waxes useful
in the composition are those mentioned previously.
Liposoluble or Dispersible Polymers
[0140] The composition of the invention may also contain at least
one polymer that is liposoluble or dispersible in the medium, for
example having an average molecular weight of from 500 to 1 000
000. In one embodiment, the at least one liposoluble or dispersible
polymer may have an average molecular weight ranging from 1 to 500
000, for example from 5000 to 100 000 or from 5000 to 20 000. The
at least one liposoluble or dispersible polymer may contribute
towards increasing the viscosity and/or improving the staying power
of the film. The at least one liposoluble or dispersible polymer
may have a softening point of not more than 30.degree.C.
[0141] As examples of liposoluble polymers which can be used in the
invention, mention may be made of: polyalkylenes, such as
polybutene, poly(meth)acrylates, alkylcelluloses with a linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1 to C.sub.6 alkyl
radical, such as ethylcellulose and propylcelltulose, silicone
polymers that are compatible with the fatty phase, as well as
vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0142] The at least one liposoluble or dispersible polymer in the
composition of the invention may be used in an amount ranging from
0% to 20% (as active material) relative to the total weight of the
composition, for example from 0.5% to 10%, if they are present.
Pasty fatty compound
[0143] The composition according to the invention may also contain
at least one fatty compound that is pasty or viscous at room
temperature. For the purposes of the invention, the expression
"pasty fatty substance" means a fatty substance with a melting
point ranging from 20.degree.C to 55.degree.C, for example from
25.degree.C to 45.degree.C, and from 25.degree.C to 40.degree.C,
and/or a viscosity at 40.degree.C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to
400 poises), for example from 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured using a
Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 viscometer, equipped with a spindle
rotating at 240 min.sup.-1for supplying with 60 Hz or at 200
min.sup.-1 for supplying with 50Hz. A person skilled in the art can
select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles
MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be
able to carry out the measurement of the pasty compound tested.
[0144] According to the invention, at least one pasty fatty
substance can be used. The at least one pasty fatty substance may
be chosen from hydrocarbon-based compounds, optionally of polymeric
type; it an also be chosen from silicone compounds and/or fluoro
compounds; it may also be in the form of a mixture of
hydrocarbon-based compounds and/or silicone compounds and/or fluoro
compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty
substances, the hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds (containing
mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally ester groups) may
be used in major proportion.
[0145] Among the pasty compounds which may be used in the
composition according to the invention, mention may be made of
lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or
oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity
of from 18 to 21 Pa.s, for instance 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and/or a
melting point of from 30.degree.C to 55.degree.C and for example
from 30.degree.C to 40.degree.C, and mixtures thereof. It is also
possible to use esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, such as
those containing from 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about
from 20.degree.C to 35.degree.C and/or viscosity at 40.degree.C
ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s), such as triisostearyl citrate or
cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate; cholesterol
esters, such as triglycerides of plant origin, such as hydrogenated
plant oils (hydrogenated castor oil), viscous polyesters such as
poly(12-hydroxystearic acid); polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having
alkyl or alkoxy pendant chains containing from 8 to 24 carbon
atoms, and a melting point of 20-55.degree.C and form example form
20.degree.C to 40.degree.C, such as stearyldimethicones (in
particular DC2503 and DC25514 from Dow Corning); and mixtures
thereof.
[0146] The at least one pasty fatty substance may be present in a
proportion up to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition, for example from 0.5% to 45% by weight, and, as a
further example, from 2% to 30% by weight, in the composition, if
present.
[0147] The composition according to the invention may be
manufactured by the known processes, that are generally used in
cosmetics or dermatology. It may be manufactured by the process
which comprises heating the polymer at least to its softening
point, in adding the amphiphilic compound(s), the fillers and
coloring agents and the additives thereto and then in mixing
everything together until a clear, transparent solution is
obtained. After reducing the temperature of the mixture obtained,
the volatile solvent(s) is(are) then added. The homogeneous mixture
obtained can then be cast in a suitable mold such as a lipstick
mold or directly into the packaging articles (e.g., a case or
dish).
[0148] Another embodiment of the invention is also a make-up
composition in stick form containing at least one continuous liquid
fatty phase structured with at least one non-waxy structuring
polymer having a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100
000, and at least one inert filler; the at least one liquid fatty
phase, the at least one structuring polymer and the at least one
inert filler forming a physiologically acceptable medium. The at
least one inert filler and the at least one non-waxy structuring
polymer may be such that they give the composition the appearance
of a deformable elastic solid with a hardness ranging from 30 to
300 gf, such as 30 to 250 gf, and further such as 30 to 200 gf,
even in the absence of wax, as measured by the "cheese wire" method
discussed above.
[0149] This make-up composition in stick form may contain at least
one volatile solvent as defined above. The non-waxy polymer can,
for example, be a polymer whose skeleton comprises
hydrocarbon-based units containing a hetero atom, as defined above.
For example, the non-waxy polymer can have a skeleton containing a
polyamide group that may contain alkyl end groups linked to the
skeleton via a linking group, such as of the ester type. An
embodiment such as a lipstick, can contain, for example, at least
one additive chosen from fatty compounds that are pasty at room
temperature and waxes.
[0150] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic care, make-up
or treatment process for the keratin materials of human beings,
such as the skin, the lips and superficial body growths, such as
keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin
materials of the composition, for example the cosmetic composition,
as defined above.
[0151] A subject of the invention is also the use of the
combination of at least one structuring polymer having a
weight-average molecular mass less than 100,000, such as less than
50,000, comprising a) a polymer skeleton comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom, and b) optionally at least one terminal fatty chain,
optionally functionalized, comprising at least one chain chosen
from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as alkyl and alkenyl chains
having at least 4 carbon atoms, and further such as alkyl and
alkenyl chains having from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to the
polymer skeleton via at least one linking group, and c) optionally
at least one pendant fatty chain, optionally functionalized,
comprising at least one chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains,
such as alkyl and alkenyl chains having at least 4 carbon atoms,
and further such as alkyl and alkenyl chains having from 8 to 120
carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least one
linking group, and of at least one inert filler, in a cosmetic
composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable
composition which is solid, in particular without wax, which
achieves at least one of the following characteristics: does not
exude, migration-resistant deposit, non-greasy deposit, and
comfortable deposit on the keratin materials.
[0152] Another subject of the invention is the use of a combination
of at least one inert filler, of at least one volatile solvent and
of at least one structuring polymer having a weight-average
molecular mass less than 100,000, such as less than 50,000,
comprising a) a polymer skeleton comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom, and b) optionally at least one terminal fatty chain and/or at
least one pendant chain, optionally functionalized, comprising at
least one chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as alkyl
and alkenyl chains having at least 4 carbon atoms, and further such
as alkyl and alkenyl chains having from 8 to 120 carbon atoms,
bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group, in a
cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically
acceptable composition, as an agent for giving to a deposit of the
said composition at least one of the following characteristics:
staying power or long wearing, transfer-resistance properties, and
properties of not leaving marks on a support placed in contact with
the said deposit.
[0153] A subject of the invention is also the use of at least one
inert filler in a physiologically acceptable composition,
comprising at least one structuring polymer comprising a) a polymer
skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit
comprising at least one hetero atom, and b) optionally at least one
terminal fatty chain and/or at least one pendant chain, optionally
functionalized, comprising at least one chain chosen from alkyl and
alkenyl chains, such as alkyl and alkenyl chains having at least 4
carbon atoms, and further such as alkyl and alkenyl chains having
from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton via at
least one linking group, as an agent for increasing at least one of
the following properties of the composition: hardness, shear
strength, heat resistance.
[0154] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for
increasing the hardness of a physiologically acceptable composition
cast in particular as a stick or as a dish and/or for increasing
its shear strength and/or its heat resistance, the said composition
containing at least one structuring polymer comprising a) a polymer
skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit
comprising at least one hetero atom, and b) optionally at least one
terminal fatty chain, optionally functionalized, comprising at
least one chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as alkyl
and alkenyl chains having at least 4 carbon atoms, and further such
as alkyl and alkenyl chains having from 8 to 120 carbon atoms,
bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group, and
c) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain, optionally
functionalized, comprising at least one chain chosen from alkyl and
alkenyl chains, such as alkyl and alkenyl chains having at least 4
carbon atoms, and further such as alkyl and alkenyl chains having
from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton via at
least one linking group, and of at least one inert filler, which
comprises introducing a sufficient amount of at least one inert
filler into the composition.
[0155] Embodiments of the invention include the following: A
mascara, an eyeliner, a foundation, a lipstick, a make-up-removing
product, a make-up product for the body, an eyeshadow, a face
powder, a concealer product, a shampoo, a conditioner, an antisun
product or a care product for the lips or hair comprising a
composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase in said
mascara, eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, blusher, make-up-removing
product, make-up product for the body, eyeshadow, face powder,
concealer product, shampoo, conditioner, antisun product or care
product for the lips, hair or skin which comprises:
[0156] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0157] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0158] (ii) at least one inert filler.
[0159] A mascara, an eyeliner, a foundation, a lipstick, a
make-up-removing product, a make-up product for the body, a nail
composition, an eyeshadow, a face powder, a concealer product, a
shampoo, a conditioner, an antisun product or a care product for
the lips, hair or nails comprising a composition comprising at
least one liquid fatty phase in said mascara, eyeliner, foundation,
lipstick, blusher, make-up-removing product, make-up product for
the body, nail composition, eyeshadow, face powder, concealer
product, shampoo, conditioner, antisun product or care product for
the lips, hair or nails which comprises:
[0160] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0161] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0162] (ii) at least one inert filler, with the proviso that said
at least one inert filler is not acrylates copolymer or
stearalkonium hectorite.
[0163] A deodorant product or a care product for the skin, lips, or
body comprising a composition comprising at least one liquid fatty
phase in said product which comprises:
[0164] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0165] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0166] (ii) at least one inert filler, with the proviso that said
at least one inert filler is not acrylates copolymer, silica, talc,
or a bentonite clay.
[0167] A care product for the skin, lips, or body comprising a
composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase in said
product which comprises:
[0168] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0169] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0170] (ii) at least one inert filler.
[0171] A care and/or treatment and/or make-up composition for
keratinous fibers, lips or skin comprising at least one liquid
fatty phase in said care and/or treatment and/or make-up
composition for keratinous fibers, lips or skin which
comprises:
[0172] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0173] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0174] (ii) at least one inert filler.
[0175] A lip composition in stick form comprising at least one
continuous liquid fatty phase, at least one inert filler for the
fatty phase and at least one non-waxy structuring polymer having a
weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000 in said lipstick
composition, said continuous liquid fatty phase, said at least one
inert filler, and said at least one non-waxy structuring polymer
being present in said lipstick composition.
[0176] An eyeshadow composition comprising at least one liquid
fatty phase in said eyeshadow composition which comprises:
[0177] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0178] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0179] (ii) at least one inert filler.
[0180] A lip composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase
in said lip composition which comprises:
[0181] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0182] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0183] (ii) at least one inert filler.
[0184] A foundation composition comprising at least one liquid
fatty phase in said foundation composition which comprises:
[0185] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0186] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0187] (ii) at least one inert filler.
[0188] A method for care, make-up or treatment of keratinous
fibers, lips, or skin comprising applying to said keratinous
fibers, lips, or skin a composition comprising at least one liquid
fatty phase which comprises:
[0189] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0190] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0191] (ii) at least one inert filler.
[0192] A method for providing an anhydrous composition having at
least one property chosen from a solid appearance, non-exudation,
shear-strength, gloss, and comfortable deposit on keratin materials
chosen from lips, skin, and keratinous fibers, comprising including
in said composition at least one liquid fatty phase which
comprises:
[0193] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0194] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0195] (ii) at least one inert filler, with the proviso that said
at least one inert filler is not acrylates copolymer, silica, talc,
or a bentonite clay.
[0196] A structured composition comprising at least one liquid
fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer
comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom, wherein the at least one structuring polymer further
comprises at least one chain chosen from
[0197] (i) terminal fatty chains, optionally functionalized, chosen
from alkyl and alkenyl chains, bonded to the polymer skeleton via
at least one linking group chosen from amides, ureas, and esters,
and
[0198] (ii) pendant fatty chains, optionally functionalized, chosen
from alkyl and alkenyl chains, bonded to the polymer skeleton via
at least one linking group chosen from amides, ureas, and
esters,
[0199] wherein when said at least one linking group is chosen from
esters, said at least one terminal fatty chain is chosen from
branched alkyl groups, and further comprising at least one inert
filler. In one embodiment, the at least one inert filler is not
acrylates copolymer, silica, talc, or a bentonite clay.
[0200] A make up or care or treatment composition for the skin, the
lips, or keratinous fibers comprising a structured composition
comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least
one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at
least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one
hetero atom, at least one inert filler, and at least one coloring
agent.
[0201] A method of making up or caring for skin, lips, or
keratinous fibers comprising applying to said skin, lips, or
keratinous fibers a structured composition comprising at least one
liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer
comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom and at least one inert filler.
[0202] A anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty
phase which comprises:
[0203] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0204] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least three
hydrocarbon-based repeating units comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0205] (ii) at least one inert filler, including where said at
least three hydrocarbon-based repeating units are identical.
[0206] A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase
which comprises:
[0207] (i) at least one structuring polymer chosen from urea
urethanes having the following formula:
[0208] R-O-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-NH-R"-NH-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-OR
[0209] wherein R represents C.sub.nH.sub.2n+1-, wherein n
represents an integer having a value greater than 22 or
C.sub.mH.sub.2m+1 (OC.sub.pH.sub.2p).sub.r -, wherein m represents
an integer having a value of greater than 18, p represents an
integer having a value of from 2 to 4, and r represents an integer
having a value of from 1 to 10.
[0210] R' represents:
[0211] 5
[0212] and R" represents:
[0213] 6
[0214] (ii) at least one inert filler.
[0215] A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase
which comprises:
[0216] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0217] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom with the proviso that said at least one hetero atom is not
nitrogen; and
[0218] (ii) a at least one inert filler.
[0219] A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase
which comprises:
[0220] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising : a polymer
skeleton which comprises a) at least one hydrocarbon-based
repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom and b) at least
one of:
[0221] - at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally
functionalized, chosen from alkyl chains and alkenyl chains,
wherein said at least one terminal fatty chain is bonded to said
polymer skeleton via at least one linking group; and
[0222] - at least one pendant fatty chain, optionally
functionalized, chosen from alkyl chains and alkenyl chains,
wherein said at least one pendant fatty chain is bonded to said
polymer skeleton via at least one linking group; and
[0223] (ii) at least one inert filler.
[0224] A make-up composition in stick form comprising at least one
continuous liquid fatty phase, at least one inert filler, and at
least one non-waxy structuring polymer having a weight-average
molecular mass of less than 100, 000.
[0225] A method for care, make-up or treatment of keratin materials
comprising applying to said keratin materials a composition
comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:
[0226] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0227] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0228] (ii) at least one inert filler. In one embodiment, said at
least one inert filler is not acrylates polymer, silica, talc, or a
bentonite clay.
[0229] A method for care, make-up or treatment of keratin fibers
comprising applying to said keratin fibers a composition comprising
at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:
[0230] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0231] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0232] (ii) at least one inert filler.
[0233] A method for increasing at least one of the hardness of a
composition, its shear strength and its heat resistance, comprising
including in said composition at least one liquid fatty phase which
comprises:
[0234] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0235] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0236] (ii) at least one inert filler, with the proviso that said
at least one inert filler is not acrylates polymer, silica, talc,
or a bentonite clay.
[0237] A method for making a physiologically acceptable cosmetic
composition comprising including in a cosmetic composition at least
one liquid fatty phase which comprises:
[0238] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0239] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom, wherein said at least one structuring polymer further
optionally comprises at least one of:
[0240] at least one terminal fatty chain comprising 8 to 120 carbon
atoms, wherein said at least one terminal fatty chain is bonded to
said polymer skeleton via at least one linking group; and
[0241] at least one pendant fatty chain comprising 8 to 120 carbon
atoms, wherein said at least one pendant fatty chain is bonded to
any carbon or hetero atom of said polymer skeleton via at least one
linking group; and
[0242] (ii) at least one inert filler. In one embodiment, said at
least one inert filler is not acrylates polymer, silica, talc, or a
bentonite clay.
[0243] A structured composition comprising at least one liquid
fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer
comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom, wherein the at least one structuring polymer further
comprises at least one of: terminal and pendant fatty chains,
optionally functionalized, said terminal and pendant fatty chains
comprising at least one chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains,
bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group
chosen from amides, ureas, and esters, wherein when said at least
one linking group is chosen from esters, said terminal fatty chains
are chosen from branched alkyl groups, wherein said at least one
liquid fatty phase also comprises at least one inert filler, with
the proviso that said at least one inert filler is not acrylates
copolymer, silica, talc, or a bentonite clay.
[0244] A structured anhydrous composition comprising at least one
liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer
comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom, wherein the at least one structuring polymer further
comprises at least one of: terminal and pendant fatty chains,
optionally functionalized, said terminal and pendant fatty chains
comprising at least one chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains,
bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group
chosen from amides, ureas, and esters, wherein when said at least
one linking group is chosen from esters, said terminal fatty chains
are chosen from branched alkyl groups, wherein said at least one
liquid fatty phase also comprises at least one inert filler.
[0245] A skin or lip care composition comprising a structured
composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured
in said composition with at least one structuring polymer
comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom, at least one inert filler, and at least one coloring
agent.
[0246] A keratinous fiber treatment, care or make-up composition
comprising a structured composition containing at least one liquid
fatty phase structured in said composition with at least one
structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at
least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one
hetero atom, at least one inert filler, and at least one coloring
agent.
[0247] A method of making up or caring for skin, lips or keratinous
fibers comprising applying to said skin or keratinous fibers a
structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase
structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a
polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based
repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom and at least one
inert filler.
[0248] A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase in
said composition which comprises:
[0249] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0250] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least three
hydrocarbon-based repeating units comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0251] (ii) at least one inert filler, with the proviso that said
at least one inert filler is not silica or talc
[0252] A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase in
said composition which comprises:
[0253] (i) at least one structuring polymer chosen from urea
urethanes having the following formula:
[0254] R-O-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-NH-R"-NH-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-OR
[0255] wherein R represents C.sub.nH.sub.2n+1-, wherein n
represents an integer having a value greater than 22 or
C.sub.mH.sub.2m+1 (OC.sub.pH.sub.2p).sub.r -, wherein m represents
an integer having a value of greater than 18, p represents an
integer having a value of from 2 to 4, and r represents an integer
having a value of from 1 to 10.
[0256] R' represents:
[0257] 7
[0258] and R" represents:
[0259] 8
[0260] (ii) at least one inert filler.
[0261] A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase
which comprises:
[0262] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0263] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0264] (ii) at least one inert filler, with the proviso that said
at least one inert filler is not acrylates copolymer, silica, talc,
or a bentonite clay.
[0265] An anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid
fatty phase which comprises:
[0266] (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
[0267] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and
[0268] (ii) at least one inert filler, with the proviso that said
at least one inert filler is not acrylates copolymer or
stearalkonium hectorite.
[0269] A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase
which comprises:
[0270] (i) at least one structuring polymer, wherein said at least
one structuring polymer is at least one polyamide polymer
comprising:
[0271] a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one amide
repeating unit; and
[0272] (ii) at least one inert filler. In one embodiment, said at
least one inert filler is not acrylates copolymer, silica, talc, or
a bentonite clay.
[0273] The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the
examples which follow. The amounts are given as percentages by
mass.
Example 1: Lipstick
[0274]
1 Phase A Uniclear 100 18% Dilsononyl isononanoate 5% Dilsostearyl
malate 17% Hydrogenated polybutene (Parleam) 4% Phase B Hydrophobic
silica (Aerosil R972) 3% Hydrogenated polybutene 25% Isononyl
isononanoate 12% Phase C Pigments 7% Hydrogenated polybutene 9%
[0275]
Procedure
[0276] The Uniclear 100 and the oils of phase A were introduced
into a heating vessel. The mixture was placed under magnetic
stirring and then heated in a first stage to 100.degree.C (to
liquefy the Uniclear). A mixture comprising the silica gel (phase
B) prepared beforehand and of the ground pigmentary material (phase
C), which was heated beforehand to 100.degree.C and homogenized
with stirring, was introduced into a heated mold (T.degree.=
45.degree.C). The product obtained was placed, after setting had
started, in a freezer (T.degree.= -21.degree.C) for 15 minutes.
[0277] a) Silica gel (phase B)
[0278] The gel was prepared, with stirring in a Rayneri stirrer at
60.degree.C, using a hotplate, by introducing the silica
portionwise into the oily mixture formed from
[0279] Hydrogenated polybutene (Parleam) 25 g
[0280] lsononyl isononanoate 12 g
[0281] TOTAL 40 g
[0282] b) Ground pigmentary material (phase C)
[0283] The pigments were mixed with the oil heated to 60.degree.C;
the mixture was milled 3 times in a three-roll mill.
[0284] The sticks of lipstick had a diameter of 8.1 mm and a
hardness of 77 .+-.10 gf, measured using a "cheese wire". These
lipsticks were considered by testers as having good staying power
and being non-greasy and glossy. This lipstick was stable and did
not exude at room temperature or at 47.degree.C, for 2 months.
[0285] The lipstick obtained deposited a glossy film with good
staying power. This lipstick was considered by testers as having
good staying power and being glossy.
Examples 2 to 4: Cast foundations
[0286] Several foundations differing from each other in the nature
of the filler, and having the composition below, were prepared:
[0287]
2 Phase A Uniclear 100 11% Isononyl isononanoate 10% Phase B Coated
yellow iron oxide* 2.2% Coated red iron oxide* 0.5% Coated black
iron oxide* 0.3% Titanium oxide* 7% Phase C Filler 10% Phase D
Isododecane qs 100%.sup. *The coating is aluminium
stearoylglutamate
[0288]
Procedure
[0289] The Uniclear 100 was incorporated into the isononyl
isononanoate, with the aid of a Rayneri mixer for 10 min., in a
heating vessel heated to 110.degree.C. The stirring was continued
until the Uniclear has fully dissolved (phase A).
[0290] In parallel, a pigmentary phase was prepared by
incorporating 30 g of pigments (iron oxide + titanium oxide) into
8.8 g of isododecane, followed by milling using a three-roll mill.
This pigmentary phase (phase B) was then introduced into phase A
and the mixture was stirred until completely homogeneous, for 30
min., at 110.degree.C. Next, the temperature was lowered to
95.degree.C and the volatile phase D was then added to the above
mixture. After stirring the resulting mixture for 15 min., the
filler (phase C) was incorporated and stirring of this mixture was
then continued for 20 min. Next, the final mixture obtained was
cast in foundation molds preheated to 45.degree.C and the mixture
was then left to cool to room temperature (25.degree.C).
[0291] The fillers used were, respectively, silica beads (Tospearl
145 A) (Example 2), Nlylon particles (Example 3) and PMMA particles
of 10 to 12 m, from Wackherr under the reference Covabead
LH-85.RTM. (Example 4). With the composition of Example 2, a slight
phase separation was observed at room temperature after 1 month.
With composition 3, good stability was obtained both at 4.degree.C
and room temperature (25.degree.C) and at 45.degree.C, after 1
month and even after 2 months, i.e., no phase separation or
exudation, although the feel of this composition was not
particularly pleasant. With composition 4, good stability was
obtained at 4.degree.C, 25.degree.C and 45.degree.C, after 1 month
and 2 months. This composition felt pleasant, non-greasy, light and
fondant on the fingers and was easy to spread.
[0292] The composition of Example 4 was also compared with a
commercially available transfer-resistant foundation, Teint Idole
in stick form, containing conventional waxes, and no structuring
polymer in the sense of the invention. These compositions were
applied per half-face to 5 testers and per half-neck to 10
individuals, after applying a day cream to the face and the neck
(Primordiale from Lancme), followed by drying for 10 min. and
wearing a collar made of fabric for 30 min. The extent of the
deposit was assessed visually by an aesthetician. The
transfer-resistance properties were graded from 0 to 7 with 0
corresponding to no deposit of foundation on the collar, and 7
corresponding to a sizeable deposit. Composition 4 according to the
invention received an average score of 2.6, compared with 3 for the
commercially available product, considered by the consumers as a
very good transfer-resistant product in stick form. In particular,
5 testers considered that composition 4 had transfer-resistance
properties that were superior to those of the commercially
available product, and 3 other testers considered that composition
4 and the commercially available product had identical
transfer-resistance properties.
[0293] Finally, these 2 compositions were considered as applying
well, feeling soft, being comfortable and giving a natural and
light make-up effect. The skin was made uniform and smooth. The
make-up effect was homogeneous.
Example 5: Cast foundation
[0294]
3 Isostearyl neopentanoate qs 100%.sup. Isononyl isononanoate 15%
Yellow iron oxide 2.1% Yellow-brown iron oxide 1% Black iron oxide
0.3% Titanium oxide (untreated anatase) 10.6% Methyl
p-hydroxybenzoate 0.2% Talc (particle size 2 .lambda.m) 8.3%
Kaolinite (hydrated aluminium silicate) 3% Nano-titanium oxide
(particle size 2 nm) coated 5% with PDMS Polyethylene wax MW**: 500
3.7% Uniclear 100 7.4% Hollow polymethyl methacrylate microspheres
4% (particle size: 10 to 12 m ) Polytetrafluoroethylene wax 4%
(particle size 8 .mu.m), MW**: 75 000) Octyldodecanol **MW:
number-average molecular mass. 4.4%
[0295]
* * * * *