U.S. patent application number 10/413217 was filed with the patent office on 2004-07-22 for methods of use and of making a mascara comprising at least one coloring agent and at least one polyamide polymer chosen from ethylenediamine stearyl dimer tallate copolymer.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL S.A.. Invention is credited to Kanji, Mohamed G..
Application Number | 20040141932 10/413217 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 25517843 |
Filed Date | 2004-07-22 |
United States Patent
Application |
20040141932 |
Kind Code |
A2 |
Kanji, Mohamed G. |
July 22, 2004 |
METHODS OF USE AND OF MAKING A MASCARA COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE
COLORING AGENT AND AT LEAST ONE POLYAMIDE POLYMER CHOSEN FROM
ETHYLENEDIAMINE STEARYL DIMER TALLATE COPOLYMER
Abstract
Methods of making a mascara composition and use of that
composition to make up eyelashes where the method of making the
mascara composition comprises including in the cosmetic composition
at least one polyamide polymer chosen from ethylenediamine/stearyl
dimer tallate copolymer, and a neutralized stearic acid which may
be formed in-situ from stearic acid and at least one amine base.
The method of making also comprises mixing at least one polyamide
polymer chosen from ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate
copolymer, stearic acid, and at least one amine base.
Inventors: |
Kanji, Mohamed G.; (Edison,
NJ) |
Correspondence
Address: |
FINNEGAN, HENDERSON, FARABOW, GARRETT & DUNNER, LLP
1300 I STREET, NW
WASHINGTON
DC
20005
US
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL S.A.
14, rue Royale
Paris
FR
F-75008
|
Prior
Publication: |
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Document Identifier |
Publication Date |
|
US 0198613 A1 |
October 23, 2003 |
|
|
Family ID: |
25517843 |
Appl. No.: |
10/413217 |
Filed: |
April 15, 2003 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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10413217 |
Apr 15, 2003 |
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09/971,028 |
Oct 5, 2001 |
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6,716,420 |
Apr 6, 2004 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/63 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q 1/10 20130101; A61K
8/361 20130101; A61K 8/375 20130101; A61K 8/8176 20130101; A61K
8/88 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/063 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/021 |
Claims
What is Claimed is:
1. A method for making-up eyelashes comprising applying to said
eyelashes a mascara comprising:(i) neutralized stearic acid;(ii) at
least one polyamide polymer chosen from ethylenediamine/stearyl
dimer tallate copolymer;(iii) water; (iv) at least one coloring
agent; and (v) at least one preservative.
2. A method for making a mascara comprising including in said
mascara:(i) at least one coloring agent;(ii) at least one polyamide
polymer chosen from ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate
copolymer;(iii) at least one preservative;(iv) water; and(v)
neutralized stearic acid.
3. A method for making-up eyelashes according to claim 1, wherein
said stearic acid is neutralized by at least one amine compound in
an amount less than the amount of said at least one polyamide
polymer.
4. A method for making a mascara according to claim 2, wherein said
stearic acid is neutralized by at least one amine compound in an
amount less than the amount of said at least one polyamide
polymer.
5. A method for making-up eyelashes according to claim 1, wherein
said mascara further comprises PVP.
6. A method for making-up eyelashes according to claim 1, wherein
said mascara further comprises glyceryl stearate.
7. A method of making a mascara according to claim 2, comprising
further including PVP.
8. A method of making a mascara according to claim 2, comprising
further including glyceryl stearate.
9. A method for making a mascara comprising mixing(i) at least one
coloring agent;(ii) at least one polyamide polymer chosen from
ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate copolymer;(iii) at least one
preservative;(iv) water; (v) stearic acid; and(vi) at least one
amine base.
10. A method for making a mascara according to claim 9, further
comprising mixing PVP.
11. A method for making a mascara according to claim 9, further
comprising mixing glyceryl stearate.
12. A method for making a mascara comprising mixing (i) at least
one coloring agent;(ii) at least one polyamide polymer chosen from
ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate copolymer;(iii) at least one
preservative;(iv) water; (v) stearic acid; (vi) at least one amine
base; (vii) PVP; and (viii) glyceryl stearate.
13. A method for making-up eyelashes comprising applying to said
eyelashes a mascara made by mixing(i) at least one coloring
agent;(ii) at least one polyamide polymer chosen from
ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate copolymer;(iii) at least one
preservative;(iv) water; (v) stearic acid; and(vi) at least one
amine base.
14. A method for making-up eyelashes according to claim 13, wherein
said mascara is made by further mixing PVP.
15. A method for making- up eyelashes according to claim 13,
wherein said mascara is made by further mixing glyceryl
stearate.
16. A method for making-up eyelashes comprising applying to said
eyelashes a mascara made by mixing(i) at least one coloring
agent;(ii) at least one polyamide polymer chosen from
ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer tallate copolymer;(iii) at least one
preservative;(iv) water; (v) stearic acid; (vi) at least one amine
base; (vii) PVP; and (viii) glyceryl stearate.
Description
Detailed Description of the Invention
Detailed Description
[0001] The present invention relates to methods of dispersing at
least one coloring agent in a cosmetic composition comprising
including in the composition at least one heteropolymer, wherein
the at least one heteropolymer is present in an amount effective to
disperse the at least one coloring agent.
[0002] One problem that is prevalent in the preparation of
formulations in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry is the
dispersion of components which make up the composition. A great
deal of time and energy is spent in an attempt to obtain an even
distribution or dispersion of ingredients. A uniform dispersion of
components that make up a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition,
including dispersion of pigments, can result in enhanced properties
such as improved efficacy, more intense color, higher gloss,
uniformity of batches, less clumping, and less energy required for
mixing.
[0003] Further, many cosmetic or dermatological products comprise a
structured,i.e., gelled and/or rigidified, liquid fatty phase, such
as, for example, in mascaras, lipsticks, concealer products,
eyeshadows, and foundations. This structuring may be obtained with
the aid of traditional waxes and/or fillers. Unfortunately, these
waxes and fillers may have a tendency to make the composition matte
and to dull the intensity and color of any pigments in the
composition, which may not always be desirable, in particular for a
mascara. Specifically, consumers are always on the lookout for a
mascara which can deposit a film with intense color and which is
also increasingly glossy.
[0004] Both the intensity of the color and the gloss of a cosmetic
composition are generally associated with the nature of the liquid
fatty phase. The liquid fatty phase of mascaras commonly comprise a
traditional wax. As discussed above, traditional waxes do not
develop pigments, and adding pigments to such traditional waxes
generally results in a composition having a grey, dull color and a
matte look.
[0005] To overcome at least one of these drawbacks, the inventors
envisaged including in cosmetic compositions comprising at least
one coloring agent, at least one heteropolymer, for example, at
least one polyamide polymer, in an amount effective to disperse the
at least one coloring agent. In one embodiment, cosmetic
compositions thus obtained displayed intense color as well as
gloss. Therefore, the inventors have found, surprisingly, that
certain heteropolymers may be effective for dispersing at least one
coloring agent, and may make it possible to obtain a cosmetic
composition whose application can produce a deposit which comprises
at least one property chosen from gloss and intense color.
[0006] The present invention applies to cosmetic compositions which
includes not only to pigmented make-up products, such as mascaras
and lipsticks, but also pigmented care and/or treatment products
for the skin, including the scalp, the human face and body.
[0007] Thus, in one embodiment, the present invention provides
methods for dispersing at least one coloring agent in a cosmetic
composition comprising including in the cosmetic composition at
least one heteropolymer comprising a polymer skeleton which
comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising
at least one hetero atom in an amount effective to disperse the at
least one coloring agent.
[0008] The present invention also provides, in one embodiment, a
method for providing at least one property chosen from gloss and
intense color to a cosmetic composition comprising including in the
cosmetic composition (i) at least one heteropolymer comprising a
polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based
repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom; and (ii) at
least one coloring agent, wherein the at least one heteropolymer is
present in an amount effective to disperse the at least one
coloring agent.
[0009] Certain terms used herein are defined below:
[0010] "At least one" means one or more and thus includes
individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
[0011] "Alkyl group," as used herein, refers to substituted linear
alkyl groups, unsubstituted linear alkyl groups, substituted
branched alkyl groups, unsubstituted branched alkyl groups,
substituted cyclic alkyl groups and unsubstituted cyclic alkyl
groups, wherein the aforementioned alkyl groups comprise at least
one carbon and may optionally further comprise at least one hetero
atom intercalated in the alkyl chain.
[0012] "Alkenyl group," as used herein, refers to substituted
linear alkenyl groups, unsubstituted linear alkenyl groups,
substituted branched alkenyl groups, unsubstituted branched alkenyl
groups, substituted cyclic alkenyl groups and unsubstituted cyclic
alkenyl groups, wherein the aforementioned alkenyl groups comprise
at least one carbon and at least one double bond, and may
optionally further comprise at least one hetero atom intercalated
in the alkenyl chain.
[0013] "Functionalized," as used herein, means comprising at least
one functional group. Non-limiting examples of functional groups
include hydroxyl groups, ether groups, oxyalkylene groups,
polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, amide
groups, halogen-containing groups, including fluoro groups and
perfluoro groups, halogens, ester groups, siloxane groups, and
polysiloxane groups.
[0014] A "functionalized chain," as used herein, refers to, for
example, an alkyl chain comprising at least one functional group
chosen, for example, from those recited above. For example, in one
embodiment, the hydrogen atoms of at least one alkyl chain may be
substituted at least partially with fluorine atoms.
[0015] "Gloss," as used herein, refers to surface shininess. A
cosmetic composition is provided with gloss, as used herein, when
there is a measurable increase in the gloss of the composition upon
addition of the at least one heteropolymer to the cosmetic
composition. The gloss of a composition may, for example, be
measured and evaluated using a gloss meter. Gloss meters are
commonly used in the nail polish art, and measure the amount of
light reflected from the surface or film of interest. The gloss may
be quantified, for example, as a % reflectance. In one embodiment,
the gloss of a cosmetic composition comprising the at least one
heteropolymer is greater than the gloss of the composition prior to
addition of the at least one heteropolymer.
[0016] "Hydrocarbon-based oil," as used herein, refers to an oil
comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, optionally with at least one
group chosen from hydroxyl groups, ester groups, carboxyl groups,
and ether groups.
[0017] "Keratinous fibers," as used herein, includes hair
(including eyelashes and eyebrows).
[0018] "Keratinous material," as used herein, includes skin
(including lips), hair (including eyelashes and eyebrows), and
nails.
[0019] "Liquid fatty phase," as used herein, means a fatty phase
which is liquid at room temperature (25C) and atmospheric pressure
(760 mmHg), and which comprises at least one fatty substance that
is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, also
referred to as an oil.
[0020] "Polymer," as used herein, means a compound comprising at
least 2 repeating units.
[0021] It is to be understood that both the foregoing general
description and the following detailed description are exemplary
and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the invention as
claimed. Reference will now be made in detail to exemplary
embodiments of the present invention.
[0022] As described above, the present invention relates to
compositions and methods for dispersing at least one coloring agent
and for making-up at least one keratinous material, in particular
at least one human keratinous material, such as skin, including the
lips, and/or at least one keratinous fiber which includes hair,
eyelashes, and eyebrows, comprising at least one liquid fatty phase
which comprises at least one heteropolymer and at least one
coloring agent, wherein the at least one heteropolymer is present
in an amount effective to disperse the at least one coloring
agent.
[0023] The at least one heteropolymer of the present invention
comprises a polymer skeleton comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom. In one embodiment, the at least one heteropolymer further
comprises at least one chain chosen from:
[0024] (i) terminal fatty chains, optionally functionalized, chosen
from alkyl chains, such as alkyl chains comprising at least four
carbon atoms, and alkenyl chains, such as alkenyl chains comprising
at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton, such as
a polyamide skeleton, via at least one linking group, and
[0025] (ii) pendant fatty chains, optionally functionalized, chosen
from alkyl chains, such as alkyl chains comprising at least four
carbon atoms, and alkenyl chains, such as alkenyl chains comprising
at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton, such as
a polyamide skeleton, via at least one linking group.
[0026] The at least one linking group may, for example, be chosen
from direct bonds, urea groups, urethane groups, thiourethane
groups, thioester groups, thioether groups, thiourea groups, ester
groups, ether groups, and amine groups. In one embodiment, the at
least one linking group is chosen from urea groups, ester groups,
and amine groups. In another embodiment, the at least one linking
group is chosen from ester groups and amine groups.
[0027] The composition of the invention may be in the form of a
paste, a solid or a more or less viscous cream. Further, the
inventive composition may be a single emulsion (such as an
oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion), a multiple emulsion (such
as an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water
emulsion), or a rigid or soft gel comprising an oily continuous
phase. For example, in one embodiment, the composition may comprise
a liquid fatty phase. In a further embodiment, the liquid fatty
phase may be the continuous phase of the composition. In one
embodiment, the composition is in the form of a single emulsion. In
a further embodiment, the composition is in the form of an
oil-in-water emulsion.
[0028] Further, according to the present invention, the inventive
compositions may be washable compositions, i.e., those that may be
removed with water and/or soap (e.g., emulsions) or waterproof
compositions (e.g., solvent-based compositions), depending on the
additional compounds and the desired product. In fact, the
inclusion of the at least one heteropolymer of the present
invention may impart water resistance to an otherwise washable
composition and may impart increased water resistance to an
otherwise water resistant composition. Thus, in one aspect, the
present invention provides a method for making a water resistant
composition comprising including in a cosmetic composition at least
one heteropolymer as defined herein.
Heteropolymer
[0029] In one embodiment, the at least one heteropolymer in the
composition of the invention is a solid that is not deformable at
room temperature (25.degree.C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
In another embodiment, the at least one heteropolymer is capable of
structuring the composition without opacifying it.
[0030] As defined above, the at least one heteropolymer of the
present invention comprises a polymer skeleton comprising at least
one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom. In one embodiment, the at least one heteropolymer further
comprises at least one terminal fatty chain chosen from alkyl
chains and alkenyl chains, such as chains comprising at least 4
atoms, and further such as chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon
atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least one linking
group. The terminal fatty chain may, for example, be
functionalized. The at least one heteropolymer may also further
comprise at least one pendant fatty chain chosen from alkyl chains
and alkenyl chains, such as chains comprising at least 4 atoms, and
further such as chains comprising 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to
any carbon or hetero atom of the polymer skeleton via at least one
linking group. The pendant fatty chain may, for example, be
functionalized. The at least one heteropolymer may comprise both at
least one pendant fatty chain and at least one terminal fatty chain
as defined above, and one or both types of chains can be
functionalized. Further, one or both types of chains may be linked
directly to the polymer skeleton or via an ester function or a
perfluoro group.
[0031] In one embodiment, the alkyl chains and alkenyl chains
comprise at least four carbon atoms, such as from 8 to 120 carbon
atoms, and further such as from 12 to 68 carbon atoms. In another
embodiment, the at least one linking group is chosen from direct
bonds, urea groups, urethane groups, thiourea groups, thiourethane
groups, thioether groups, thioester groups, ester groups, ether
groups, and amine groups. In yet another embodiment, the at least
one linking group is an ester group and is present in an amount
ranging from 15% to 40% of the total number of all ester and hetero
atom groups in the at least one heteropolymer, such as from 20% to
35%.
[0032] In one embodiment, the heteropolymer comprises at least two
hydrocarbon-based repeating units. In another embodiment, the
heteropolymer comprises at least three hydrocarbon-based repeating
units. In yet another embodiment, the heteropolymer comprises at
least three hydrocarbon-based repeating units, wherein the at least
three repeating units are identical.
[0033] The hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may be chosen from
saturated hydrocarbon-based repeating units and unsaturated
hydrocarbon-based repeating units, which, in turn, may be chosen
from linear hydrocarbon-based repeating units, branched
hydrocarbon-based repeating units, and cyclic hydrocarbon-based
repeating units. Non-limiting examples of the at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit include repeating units comprising
from 2 to 80 carbon atoms and repeating units comprising from 2 to
60 carbon atoms. According to the present invention, the at least
one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise at least one
oxygen atom. Further, the at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating
unit may comprise, for example, at least one hetero atom that is
part of the polymer skeleton, i.e., not pendant. Non-limiting
examples of the at least one hetero atom include nitrogen, sulphur,
and phosphorus. In one embodiment, the at least one hetero atom is
nitrogen, such as a non-pendant nitrogen atom. In another
embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may
comprise at least one hetero atom with the proviso that the at
least one hetero atom is not nitrogen. In another embodiment, the
at least one hetero atom is combined with at least one atom chosen
from oxygen and carbon to form a hetero atom group. In one
embodiment, the hetero atom group comprises a carbonyl group.
[0034] Non-limiting examples of the at least one repeating unit
comprising at least one hetero atom include amide groups, carbamate
groups, and urea groups. In one embodiment, the at least one
repeating unit comprises amide groups forming a polyamide skeleton.
In another embodiment, the at least one repeating unit comprises
carbamate groups and/or urea groups forming a polyurethane
skeleton, a polyurea skeleton and/or a polyurethane-polyurea
skeleton. The pendant chains, for example, can be linked directly
to at least one of the at least one hetero atom of the polymer
skeleton. In yet another embodiment, the at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise at least one hetero
atom group with the proviso that the at least one hetero atom group
is not an amide group. In one embodiment, the polymer skeleton
comprises at least one repeating unit chosen from silicone units
and oxyalkylene units, the at least one repeating unit being
between the hydrocarbon-based repeating units.
[0035] In one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention
comprise at least one heteropolymer comprising nitrogen atoms, such
as amide units, urea units, and carbamate units, and at least one
polar oil.
[0036] In another embodiment, in the at least one heteropolymer,
the percentage of the total number of fatty chains ranges from 40%
to 98% relative to the total number of repeating units and fatty
chains, and as a further example, from 50% to 95%. In a further
embodiment wherein the polymer skeleton is a polyamide skeleton, in
the at least one heteropolymer, the percentage of the total number
of fatty chains ranges from 40% to 98% relative to the total number
of all amide units and fatty chains, and as a further example, from
50% to 95%.
[0037] In a further embodiment, the nature and proportion of the at
least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one
hetero atom depends on the nature of the composition and is, for
example, similar to the nature of the fatty phase. For example, not
to be limited as to theory, the more polar the hydrocarbon-based
repeating units comprising a hetero atom, and in higher proportion,
which corresponds to the presence of several hetero atoms, the
greater the affinity of the at least one heteropolymer to polar
oils. Conversely, the more non-polar, or even apolar, and lesser in
proportion the hydrocarbon-based repeating units comprising a
hetero atom, the greater the affinity of the polymer for apolar
oils.
[0038] In another embodiment, the at least one heteropolymer is a
polyamide comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one
amide repeating unit and optionally at least one pendant fatty
chain and/or at least one terminal chain that are optionally
functionalized and comprise from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to
at least one of the amide repeating units via at least one linking
group. The inventive composition further comprises at least one
coloring agent. The at least one heteropolymer is present in the
composition in an amount effective to disperse the at least one
coloring agent.
[0039] In one embodiment, when the heteropolymer has amide
repeating units, the pendant fatty chains may be linked to at least
one of the nitrogen atoms in the amide repeating units.
[0040] The at least one heteropolymer, for example the polyamide
polymer, may have a weight-average molecular mass of less than
100,000, such as less than 50,000. In another embodiment, the
weight-average molecular mass may range from 1000 to 30,000, such
as from 2000 to 20,000, further such as from 2000 to 10,000.
[0041] As discussed, the at least one heteropolymer may, for
example, be chosen from polyamide polymers. A polyamide polymer may
comprise, for example, a polymer skeleton which comprises at least
one amide repeating unit, i.e., a polyamide skeleton. In one
embodiment, the polyamide skeleton may further comprise at least
one terminal fatty chain chosen from alkyl chains, for example,
alkyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, and alkenyl
chains, for example, alkenyl chains comprising at least four carbon
atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least
one linking group and/or at least one pendant fatty chain chosen
from alkyl chains, for example, alkyl chains comprising at least
four carbon atoms, and alkenyl chains, for example, alkenyl chains
comprising at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one
polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group. In one
embodiment, the polyamide skeleton may comprise at least one
terminal fatty chain chosen from fatty chains comprising 8 to 120
carbon atoms, such as, for example, 12 to 68 carbon atoms, bonded
to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking
group and/or at least one pendant fatty chain chosen from fatty
chains comprising 8 to 120 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 12
to 68 carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton
via at least one linking group, such as bonded to any carbon or
nitrogen of the polyamide skeleton via the at least one linking
group. In one embodiment, the at least one linking group is chosen
from direct bonds, urea groups, urethane groups, thiourea groups,
thiourethane groups, thioether groups, thioester groups, ester
groups, ether groups, and amine groups. In one embodiment, the at
least one linking group is chosen from ester groups. In one
embodiment, these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of
the polymer skeleton, such as the polyamide skeleton.
[0042] In one embodiment, due to the presence of at least one
chain, the polyamide polymers may be readily soluble in oils (i.e.,
water-immiscible liquid compounds) and thus may give
macroscopically homogeneous compositions even with a high content
(at least 25%) of the polyamide polymers, unlike certain polymers
of the prior art that do not contain such alkyl chains or alkenyl
chains at the end of the polyamide skeleton. As defined herein, a
composition is soluble if it has a solubility of greater than 0.01
g per 100 ml of solution at 25C.
[0043] In a further embodiment, the polyamide polymers can be
chosen from polymers resulting from at least one polycondensation
reaction between at least one acid chosen from dicarboxylic acids
comprising at least 32 carbon atoms, such as 32 to 44 carbon atoms,
and at least one amine chosen from diamines comprising at least 2
carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 36 carbon atoms, and triamines
comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 36 carbon
atoms. The dicarboxylic acids can, for example, be chosen from
dimers of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 16 carbon
atoms, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid. The at
least one amine can, for example, be chosen from diamines, such as
ethylenediamine, hexylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine,
phenylenediamine and triamines, such as ethylenetriamine.
[0044] The polyamide polymers may also be chosen from polymers
comprising at least one terminal carboxylic acid group. The at
least one terminal carboxylic acid group can, for example, be
esterified with at least one alcohol chosen from monoalcohols
comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. For example, the at least one
alcohol can be chosen from monoalcohols comprising from 10 to 36
carbon atoms. In a further embodiment, the monoalcohols can
comprise from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as from 16 to 24 carbon
atoms, and for example 18 carbon atoms.
[0045] In one embodiment, the at least one polyamide polymer may be
chosen from those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,783,657, the
disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference, which are
polyamide polymers of formula (I):
[0046] 1
[0047] in which:
[0048] - n is an integer which represents the number of amide units
such that the number of ester groups present in the at least one
polyamide polymer ranges from 10% to 50% of the total number of all
the ester groups and all the amide groups comprised in the at least
one polyamide polymer;
[0049] - R.sup.1, which are identical or different, are each chosen
from alkyl groups comprising at least 4 carbon atoms and alkenyl
groups comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. In one embodiment, the
alkyl group comprises from 4 to 24 carbon atoms and the alkenyl
group comprises from 4 to 24 carbon atoms;
[0050] - R.sup.2, which are identical or different, are each chosen
from C.sub.4 to C.sub.42 hydrocarbon-based groups with the proviso
that at least 50% of all R.sup.2 are chosen from C.sub.30 to
C.sub.42 hydrocarbon-based groups;
[0051] - R.sup.3 , which are identical or different, are each
chosen from organic groups comprising atoms chosen from carbon
atoms, hydrogen atoms, oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms with the
proviso that R.sup.3 comprises at least 2 carbon atoms; and
[0052] - R.sup.4, which are identical or different, are each chosen
from hydrogen atoms, C.sub.1 to C.sub.10 alkyl groups and direct
bonds to at least one group chosen from R.sup.3 and another R.sup.4
such that when the at least one group is chosen from another
R.sup.4, the nitrogen atom to which both R.sup.3 and R.sup.4 are
bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined in part by
R.sup.4-N-R.sup.3, with the proviso that at least 50% of all
R.sup.4 are chosen from hydrogen atoms.
[0053] In the polymer of formula (I), the terminal fatty chains
that are optionally functionalized for the purposes of the
invention are terminal chains linked to the last hetero atom, in
this case nitrogen, of the polyamide skeleton.
[0054] In one embodiment, the ester groups of formula (I), which
form part of the terminal and/or pendant fatty chains for the
purposes of the invention, are present in an amount ranging from
15% to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups, such as
from 20% to 35%.
[0055] In formula (I), in one embodiment, n may be an integer
ranging from 1 to 5, for example an integer ranging from 3 to 5. In
the present invention, R.sup.1, which are identical or different,
can, for example, each be chosen from C.sub.12 to C.sub.22 alkyl
groups, such as from C.sub.16 to C.sub.22 alkyl groups.
[0056] In the present invention, R.sup.2, which are identical or
different, can, for example, each be chosen from C.sub.10 to
C.sub.42 hydrocarbon-based, e.g., alkylene groups. At least 50% of
all R.sup.2, for example at least 75% of all R.sup.2, which are
identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from
groups comprising from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. In the two
aforementioned embodiments, the remaining R.sup.2, which are
identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from
C.sub.4 to C.sub.18 groups, such as C.sub.4 to C.sub.12
groups.sub..
[0057] R.sup.3, which can be identical or different, can, for
example, each be chosen from C.sub.2 to C.sub.36 hydrocarbon-based
groups and polyoxyalkylene groups. In another example, R.sup.3,
which can be identical or different, can each, for example, be
chosen from C.sub.2 to C.sub.12 hydrocarbon-based groups. In
another embodiment, R.sup.4, which can be identical or different,
can each be chosen from hydrogen atoms. As used herein,
hydrocarbon-based groups may be chosen from linear saturated
hydrocarbon-based groups, linear unsaturated hydrocarbon-based
groups, cyclic saturated hydrocarbon-based groups, cyclic
unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups, branched saturated
hydrocarbon-based groups, and branched saturated hydrocarbon-based
groups. The hydrocarbon-based groups can also be chosen from
aliphatic hydrocarbon-based groups and aromatic hydrocarbon-based
groups. In one example, the hydrocarbon-based groups are chosen
from aliphatic hydrocarbon-based groups. The alkyl groups may be
chosen from linear saturated alkyl groups, linear unsaturated alkyl
groups, cyclic saturated alkyl groups, cyclic unsaturated alkyl
groups, branched saturated alkyl groups, and branched unsaturated
alkyl groups. The alkylene groups may be chosen from linear
saturated alkylene groups, linear unsaturated alkylene groups,
cyclic saturated alkylene groups, cyclic unsaturated alkylene
groups, branched saturated alkylene groups, and branched
unsaturated alkylene groups.
[0058] In general, the pendant fatty chains and terminal fatty
chains, which may be identical or different, may be chosen from
linear saturated fatty chains, linear unsaturated fatty chains,
cyclic saturated fatty chains, cyclic unsaturated fatty chains,
branched saturated fatty chains, and branched unsaturated fatty
chains. The pendant fatty chains and terminal fatty chains can also
be chosen from aliphatic fatty chains and aromatic fatty chains. In
one example, the pendant fatty chains and terminal fatty chains are
chosen from aliphatic fatty chains.
[0059] According to the present invention, in one embodiment,
structuring of a liquid fatty phase may be obtained with the aid of
at least one heteropolymer, such as the at least one polymer of
formula (I). The at least one polyamide polymer of formula (I) may,
for example, be in the form of a mixture of polymers, and this
mixture may also comprise a compound of formula (I) wherein n is
equal to zero, i.e., a diester.
[0060] Non-limiting examples of the at least one polyamide polymer
which may be used in the composition according to the present
invention include the commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical
under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. These are sold,
respectively, in the form of an 80% (in terms of active material)
gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (in terms of active material) gel.
These polymers have a softening point ranging from 88C to 94C, and
may be mixtures of copolymers derived from monomers of (i) C.sub.36
diacids and (ii) ethylenediamine, and have a weight-average
molecular mass of about 6000. Terminal ester groups result from
esterification of the remaining acid end groups with at least
onealcohol chosen from cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. A mixture
of cetyl and stearyl alcohols is sometimes called cetylstearyl
alcohol.
[0061] Other non-limiting examples of the at least one polyamide
polymer which may be used in the compositions according to the
present invention include polyamide polymers resulting from the
condensation of at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and at
least one diamine, the carbonyl groups and amine groups being
condensed to form an amide bond. In one embodiment, these polymers
contain more than two carbonyl groups and more than two amine
groups. Examples of these polyamide polymers are those sold under
the brand name Versamid by the companies General Mills Inc. and
Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company Olin
Mathieson Chemical Corp. under the brand name Onamid, in particular
Onamid S or C. These polymers have a weight-average molecular mass
ranging from 6000 to 9000. For further information regarding these
polyamides, reference may be made to U.S. Patent Nos. 3,645,705 and
3,148,125, the disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by
reference. In one embodiment, Versamid 930 or 744 may be used.
[0062] Other examples of polyamides include those sold by the
company Arizona Chemical under the names Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970,
2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623 and 2662) and the product sold
under the name Macromelt 6212 by the company Henkel. For further
information regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to
U.S. Patent No. 5,500,209, the disclosure of which is hereby
incorporated by reference. Such polyamides display high melt
viscosity characteristics. Macromelt 6212, for example, has a high
melt viscosity at 190C of 30-40 poise (as measured by a Brookfield
Viscometer, Model RVF #3 spindle, 20 RPM).
[0063] In a further embodiment, the at least one polyamide polymer
may be chosen from polyamide polymersfrom vegetable sources.
Polyamide polymers from vegetable sources may be chosen from, for
example, the polyamide polymers of U.S. Patent Nos. 5,783,657 and
5,998,570, the disclosures of which are herein incorporated by
reference.
[0064] The at least one heteropolymer in the compositions of the
invention may have a softening point greater than 50C, such as from
65C to 190C, and further such as from 70C to 130C, and even further
such as from 80C to 105C. This softening point may be lower than
that of heteropolymer used in the art which may facilitate the use
of the at least one heteropolymer of the present invention and may
limit the degradation of the liquid fatty phase. These polymers may
be non waxy polymers.
[0065] In one embodiment, the at least one heteropolymer in the
composition according to the invention corresponds to the polyamide
polymers of formula (I). Due to fatty chain(s), these polymers may
be readily soluble in oils and thus lead to compositions that are
macroscopically homogeneous even with a high content (at least 25%)
of at least one heteropolymer, unlike polymers not comprising a
fatty chain.
[0066] According to the present invention, the at least one
heteropolymer is present in the inventive composition in an amount
effective to disperse the at least one coloring agent. Dispersion
of the at least one coloring agent can be evaluated by at least the
following methods. First, the at least one coloring agent is
"dispersed," as used herein, if, when a sample of the composition
comprising the at least one coloring agent is placed between 2
microscope slides, there are no agglomerates visible to the naked
eye. Agglomeration is a well known phenomenon in the art, thus one
of ordinary skill in the art should be able to readily determine
whether the at least one coloring agent is present in the
composition in the form of agglomerates. A second possible test is
the determination of the development of color. It is well known
that as the dispersion of the at least one coloring agent increases
so too does the intensity of the visible color of the composition.
Thus, L values of the composition can be measured (for example,
using Minolta Chroma Meter CR-300) to determine the intensity of
the color. In the cosmetic arts, and as defined in the L, a, b
colorimetric notations system of the Commission Internationale de
l'Eclairage, L defines the intensity of the shade. See U.S. Patent
No. 6,010,541, Col 1, line 66 to Col. 2, line 8, and Col. 9, lines
15 - 57. The shade is proportionally more intense the lower the
value of L (0 = black, 100 = white). Thus, at least one coloring
agent is dispersed if there is an increase in intensity of color,
i.e., a decrease in the L value. Furthermore, as used herein,
"intense color" refers to compositions having a more intense color,
i.e., lower L value, than the same composition without an effective
amount of the at least one heteropolymer.
[0067] According to the present invention, the at least one
heteropolymer may be present in the composition in an amount
generally ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition, such as, for example, 1% to 40%, and
further, for example, from 2 to 30%. In a further embodiment the at
least one heteropolymer may be present in the composition in an
amount ranging, for example, from 5% to 25% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition.
[0068] In another embodiment of the invention, the present
invention is drawn to a composition comprising at least one
heteropolymer which comprises a polymer skeleton comprising at
least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one
hetero atom, wherein the at least one heteropolymer further
comprises at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally
functionalized, chosen from alkyl chains and alkenyl chains, such
as alkyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms and alkenyl
chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, and further such as
alkyl chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms and alkenyl
chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer
skeleton via at least one linking group chosen from amide groups,
urea groups, and ester groups, wherein when the at least one
linking group is chosen from ester groups, the at least one
terminal fatty chain is chosen from branched alkyl groups. The at
least one heteropolymer may also comprise at least one pendant
fatty chain, optionally functionalized, chosen from alkyl chains
and alkenyl chains, such as alkyl chains comprising at least four
carbon atoms and alkenyl chains comprising at least four carbon
atoms, and further such as alkyl chains comprising from 8 to 120
carbon atoms and alkenyl chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon
atoms, bonded to any carbon or hetero atom of the polymer skeleton
via at least one linking group chosen from amide groups, urea
groups, and ester groups, wherein when the at least one linking
group is chosen from ester groups, and the at least one terminal
fatty chain is chosen from branched alkyl groups. The at least one
heteropolymer may comprise both at least one pendant fatty chain
and at least one terminal fatty chain as defined above in this
paragraph.
Coloring agent
[0069] The at least one coloring agent according to the present
invention may be chosen from the lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes,
traditional pigments, and nacres usually used in cosmetic or
dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. However, the at
least one coloring agent , as defined herein, does not include
fibers. Further, the at least one coloring agent may have any
shape, such as, for example, spheroidal, oval, platelet, irregular,
and mixtures thereof. The at least one coloring agent can generally
be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 50% relative to the
total weight of the composition, for example from 0.5% to 40%, and,
as a further example, from 5% to 30%.
[0070] The liposoluble dyes include, for example, Sudan Red,
D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan
Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5,
quinoline yellow and annatto. The liposoluble dyes can be present
in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% relative to the total weight
of the composition, for example from 0.1% to 6% (if present). The
water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methylene
blue, and can be present in an amount up to 6% relative to the
total weight of the composition.
[0071] The pigments may be chosen from white pigments, colored
pigments, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, coated pigments,
uncoated pigments, pigments having a micron size and pigments not
having a micron size. Among the inorganic pigments which may be
mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated,
zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide,
manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric
blue. Among the organic pigments which may be mentioned are carbon
black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine,
lakes based on barium, lakes based on strontium, lakes based on
calcium, and lakes based on aluminium. The pigments can be present
in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50%, for example from 0.5% to
40%, and, as a further example, from 2% to 30% relative to the
total weight of the composition, if they are present.
[0072] The nacreous pigments may, for example, be chosen from white
nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium and mica coated
with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as
titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, for example,
ferric blue and/or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic
pigment of the type mentioned above, as well as nacreous pigments
based on bismuth oxychloride, interferential pigments, and
goniochromatic pigments. They can be present in an amount ranging
from 0.1% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition,
for example from 0.1% to 15%, if they are present.
Liquid fatty phase
[0073] As described above, in one embodiment, the composition may
comprise at least one liquid fatty phase. The at least one liquid
fatty phase, in one embodiment, may comprise at least one oil. The
at least one oil, for example, may be chosen from polar oils and
apolar oils including hydrocarbon-based liquid oils and oily
liquids at room temperature. In one embodiment, the compositions of
the invention comprise at least one heteropolymer, at least one
coloring agent, and at least one polar oil. The polar oils of the
invention, for example, may be added to the apolar oils, the apolar
oils acting in particular as co-solvents for the polar oils.
[0074] According to the invention, structuring of the at least one
liquid fatty phase may be obtained with the aid of at least one
heteropolymer, such as the polymer of formula (I). In general, the
polymers of formula (I) may be in the form of mixtures of polymers,
these mixtures also possibly comprising a synthetic product
corresponding to a compound of formula (I) in which n is 0, i.e., a
diester.
[0075] The liquid fatty phase of the composition may comprise more
than 30%, for example, more than 40%, of liquid oil(s) having a
chemical nature close to the chemical nature of the skeleton
(hydrocarbon or silicone based) of the heteropolymer, and for
example from 50% to 100%. In one embodiment, the liquid fatty phase
comprising, as the at least one heteropolymer, a polyamide-type
skeleton, or polyurea, or polyurethane, or polyurea-urethane-type
skeleton comprises a high quantity, i.e., greater than 30%, for
example greater than 40% relative to the total weight of the liquid
fatty phase, such as from 50% to 100%, of at least one apolar, such
as hydrocarbon-based, oil.
[0076] For a liquid fatty phase comprising, as the at least one
heteropolymer, a polymer comprising a partially silicone-based
skeleton, this fatty phase may contain more than 30%, for example,
more than 40%, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty
phase and, for example, from 50% to 100%, of at least one
silicone-based liquid oil, relative to the total weight of the
liquid fatty phase.
[0077] For a liquid fatty phase comprising, as the at least one
heteropolymer, an apolar polymer of the hydrocarbon-based type,
this fatty phase may contain more than 30%, for example more than
40% by weight, and, as a further example, from 50% to 100% by
weight, of at least one liquid apolar, such as hydrocarbon-based,
oil, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.
[0078] For example, the at least one polar oil useful in the
invention may be chosen from:
[0079] - hydrocarbon-based plant oils with a high content of
triglycerides comprising fatty acid esters of glycerol in which the
fatty acids may have varied chain lengths from C.sub.4 to C.sub.24,
these chains possibly being chosen from linear saturated chains,
linear unsaturated chains, branched saturated chains, and branched
unsaturated chains; these oils can be chosen from, for example,
wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, karite butter, castor oil,
sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, cotton
oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil,
rapeseed oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil,
blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley
oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil,
passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively
caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by
Stearineries Dubois and those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812
and 818 by Dynamit Nobel;
[0080] - synthetic oils of formula R.sub.5COOR.sub.6 and synthetic
esters of formula R.sub.5COOR.sub.6, in which R.sub.5 is chosen
from linear fatty acid residues comprising from 1 to 40 carbon
atoms and branched fatty acid residues comprising from 1 to 40
carbon atoms, and R.sub.6 is chosen from, for example,
hydrocarbon-based chains comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on
condition that R.sub.5 + R.sub.6 10, such as, for example,
purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate,
C.sub.12-C.sub.15 alkyl benzoates, isopropyl myristate,
2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate and alkyl
octanoates, polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates, ricinoleates;
hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl
malate; and pentaerythritol esters;
[0081] - synthetic ethers comprising from 10 to 40 carbon
atoms;
[0082] - C.sub.8 to C.sub.26 fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol;
and
[0083] - C.sub.8 to C.sub.26 fatty acids such as oleic acid,
linolenic acid and linoleic acid.
[0084] The at least one apolar oil according to the invention is
chosen from, for example, silicone oils chosen from linear volatile
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at room temperature,
linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes that are liquid at room
temperature, cyclic volatile polydimethylsiloxanes that are liquid
at room temperature, and cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
that are liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes
comprising at least one group chosen from alkyl groups and alkoxy
groups, wherein the alkyl groups and alkoxy groups are chosen from
pendant groups and groups at the end of the silicone chain, and
further wherein the alkyl groups and alkoxy groups each comprise
from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyl
trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy
diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl
trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates;
hydrocarbons chosen from linear and branched, volatile and
non-volatile hydrocarbons of synthetic and mineral origin, such as
volatile liquid paraffins (such as isoparaffins and isododecanes)
and non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, liquid
petrolatum, liquid lanolin, polydecenes, hydrogenated
polyisobutene, and squalane; and mixtures thereof. The structured
oils, for example those structured with polyamides such as those of
formula (I) or with polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-urethanes,
in accordance with the invention, may be, in one embodiment, apolar
oils, such as an oil or a mixture of hydrocarbon oils chosen from
those of mineral and synthetic origin, chosen from hydrocarbons
such as alkanes such as Parleam.RTM., isoparaffins including
isododecane, and squalane, and mixtures thereof. These oils may, in
one embodiment, be combined with at least one phenylsilicone
oil.
[0085] The liquid fatty phase, in one embodiment, contains at least
one non-volatile oil chosen from, for example, hydrocarbon-based
oils of mineral, plant and synthetic origin, synthetic esters,
synthetic ethers, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] In practice, the total liquid fatty phase can be, for
example, present in an amount ranging from 1% to 99% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from
5% to 95.5%, from 10% to 80%, or from 20% to 75%.
[0087] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "volatile
solvent or oil" means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating
on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour at room
temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent(s) of
the invention is(are) organic solvents, such as volatile cosmetic
oils that are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor
pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in
particular from 10.sup.-2 mmHg to 300 mmHg and, for example,
greater than 0.3 mmHg. The expression "non-volatile oil" means an
oil which remains on the skin or the lips at room temperature and
atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, such as those
having a vapor pressure of less than 10.sup.-2 mmHg..sup.
[0088] According to the invention, these volatile solvents may
impart at least one desirable characteristic to the inventive
composition, such as, for example, staying power and long wear
properties. The solvents can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based
solvents, silicone solvents optionally comprising alkyl and/or
alkoxy groups that are pendant and/or at the end of a silicone
chain, and a mixture of these solvents.
[0089] The volatile oil(s), in one embodiment, is present in an
amount ranging up to 95.5% relative to the total weight of the
composition, such as from 2% to 75%, and, as a further example,
from 10% to 45%. This amount will be adapted by a person skilled in
the art according to the desired staying power and long wearing
properties.
[0090] The at least one liquid fatty phase of the compositions of
the invention may further comprises a dispersion of lipid vesicles.
The compositions of the invention may also, for example, be in the
form of a fluid anhydrous gel, a rigid anhydrous gel, a fluid
simple emulsion, a fluid multiple emulsion, a rigid simple emulsion
or a rigid multiple emulsion. The simple emulsion or multiple
emulsion may comprise a continuous phase chosen from an aqueous
phase optionally comprising dispersed lipid vesicles and/or oil
droplets, and a fatty phase optionally comprising dispersed lipid
vesicles and/or water droplets. In one embodiment, the composition
has a continuous oily phase or fatty phase and is more specifically
an anhydrous composition, for example, a stick or dish form. An
anhydrous composition is one that has less than 10% water by
weight, such as, for example, less than 5% by weight.
[0091] Thus, in one embodiment, the present invention provides a
composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which
comprises (i) at least one heteropolymer comprising a polymer
skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating
unit comprising at least one hetero atom with the proviso that the
at least one hetero atom is not nitrogen; and (ii) at least one
coloring agent, wherein the at least one heteropolymer is present
in an amount effective to disperse the at least one coloring
agent.
[0092] In another embodiment, the present invention is drawn to a
mascara, an eyeliner, a foundation, a lipstick, a blusher, a
make-up-removing product, a make-up product for the body, an
eyeshadow, a face powder, a concealer product, a nail composition,
a shampoo, a conditioner, an anti-sun product or a care product for
the skin, lips, or hair comprising a composition comprising (i) at
least one heteropolymer comprising a polymer skeleton which
comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising
at least one hetero atom; and (ii) at least one coloring agent,
wherein the at least one heteropolymer is present in an amount
effective to disperse the at least one coloring agent.
[0093] The present invention also provides, in one embodiment, a
mascara which comprises (i) at least one heteropolymer comprising a
polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based
repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom; and (ii) at
least one coloring agent, wherein the at least one heteropolymer is
present in an amount effective to disperse the at least one
coloring agent.
[0094] Further, the present invention, in another embodiment,
relates to a make-up and/or care and/or treatment composition for
keratinous fibers comprising (i) at least one heteropolymer
comprising a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one
hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero
atom; and (ii) at least one coloring agent, wherein the at least
one heteropolymer is present in an amount effective to disperse the
at least one coloring agent.
[0095] The present invention also provides, in one embodiment, a
method for providing at least one property chosen from gloss and
intense color comprising including in the cosmetic composition a
cosmetic composition (i) at least one heteropolymer comprising a
polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based
repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom; and (ii) at
least one coloring agent, wherein the at least one heteropolymer is
present in an amount effective to disperse the at least one
coloring agent.
[0096] Another embodiment of the present invention relates to a
method for dispersing at least one coloring agent in a liquid fatty
phase of a cosmetic composition which comprises at least one
coloring agent comprising including in the at least one liquid
fatty phase of the cosmetic composition (i) at least one
heteropolymer comprising a polymer skeleton which comprises at
least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one
hetero atom in an amount effective to disperse the at least one
coloring agent.
Polysaccharide Resin
[0097] In one embodiment, the composition according to the
invention may further comprise at least one polysaccharide resin.
In one embodiment, the at least one polysaccharide resin of the
present invention comprises numerous hydroxyl groups and
hydrophobic groups. The at least one polysaccharide resin can be in
the form of colloidal suspensions of fine, highly modified
particles such as starch particles. The fine particles may vary in
size, and may, for example, include particles with a diameter of 10
microns or less.
[0098] Non-limiting examples of the at least one polysaccharide
resin of the present invention include the polysaccharide resins
available from KAMA, International Corp., Duluth, GA. For example,
polysaccharide resin KM13 is a highly modified, colloidal
suspension in water of finely divided starch particles with a
diameter of less than 10 microns. KM13 is a co-reactive resin which
will form hydrogen bonds with other resins. This polysaccharide
resin contains numerous hydroxyl groups which contribute to the
wetting of pigments in aqueous systems and hydrophobic groups that
permit acceptance in solvent based systems without pigment
flocculation or flotation.
[0099] Polysaccharide resins are generally water soluble and
therefore a polysaccharide film former may be formulated by
dissolving the at least one polysaccharide resin in an aqueous
system. In another embodiment, the polysaccharide resin may be
added to other solvent based systems by dispersing into the solvent
system a polysaccharide resin that has been previously dissolved in
water.
[0100] If the composition of the present invention is in the form
of an emulsion, the at least one polysaccharide resin may be
contained in either the aqueous phase or in the oil phase or both.
In one embodiment, the at least one polysaccharide resin is in the
aqueous phase.
[0101] Depending on the application, the amount of the at least one
polysaccharide resin in the inventive composition may vary
considerably. One of skill in the art will be able to determine
routinely the preferred concentration of the at least one
polysaccharide resin depending on the application and the
properties desired. In one embodiment, the compositions of the
present invention comprise at least one polysaccharide resin, such
as KM13, in an amount generally ranging from 1% to 50% by weight
relative to the weight of the total composition. In another
embodiment, the at least one polysaccharide resin is present in an
amount ranging from 5% to 40% by weight. For example, for cosmetic
foundations, the at least one polysaccharide resin may be present
in the inventive compositions in an amount generally ranging from
1% to 50% by weight, such as from 1% to 20% by weight. For eyeliner
formulations, the at least one polysaccharide resin may be present
in the inventive compositions in an amount generally ranging from
1% to 30% by weight, such as from 2% to 20% by weight. For mascara
formulations, the at least one polysaccharide resin may be present
in an amount generally ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, such as
from 1% to 20% by weight.
Film Formers
[0102] The composition according to the invention may also contain
at least one film former other than the at least one polysaccharide
resin. Non-limiting examples of the at least one film former
includethose listed at pages 1703 to 1706 of the CTFA International
Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 8.sup.th Ed. (2000).
Other non-limiting examples of the at least one film former include
anionic film formers and nonionic film formers. Further, other
non-limiting examples the at least one film former include
PVP/eicosene copolymer, PPG-17/DP/DMPA copolymer, PVP K-30.
According to the present invention, the at least one film former,
if present, may be present in an amount generally ranging from 0.1%
to 10% of active material by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition, such as from 0.05% to 20%. One of ordinary skill
in the art will recognize that the at least one film former
according to the present invention may be commercially available,
and may come from suppliers in the form of a dilute solution. The
amounts of the at least one film former disclosed herein therefore
reflect the weight percent of active material.
Amphiphilic compound
[0103] The at least one heteropolymer and the at least one coloring
agent can be combined with at least one amphiphilic compound that
is liquid and non-volatile at room temperature and has a
hydrophilic/lipophilic balance (HLB) value of less than 12, for
example, ranging from 1 to 8, and further for example, from 1 to 5.
The at least one amphiphilic compound may impart at least one
desired characteristic to the inventive composition, such as, for
example, the at least one amphiphilic compound may reinforce
structuring properties of the at least one heteropolymer, may
facilitate the implementation of the heteropolymer, and may improve
the ability of composition to be deposited.
[0104] Depending on the intended application, such as, for example,
when a stick form is desired, hardness of the composition may also
be considered. The hardness of a composition may, for example, be
expressed in grams (g). The composition of the present invention
may, for example, have a hardness ranging from 20 g to 2000 g, such
as from 20 g to 900 g, and further such as from 20 g to 600 g.
[0105] This hardness is measured in one of two ways. A first test
for hardness is according to a method of penetrating a probe into
the composition and in particular using a texture analyzer (for
example TA-XT2i from Rheo) equipped with an ebonite cylinder of
height 25 mm and diameter 8 mm. The hardness measurement is carried
out at 20C at the center of 5 samples of the composition. The
cylinder is introduced into each sample of composition at a
pre-speed of 2 mm/s and then at a speed of 0.5 mm/s and finally at
a post-speed of 2 mm/s, the total displacement being 1 mm. The
recorded hardness value is that of the maximum peak observed. The
measurement error is .+-.50g.
[0106] The second test for hardness is the "cheese wire" method,
which involves cutting an 8.1 mm or 12.7 mm in diameter tube of
composition and measuring its hardness at 20C using a DFGHS 2
tensile testing machine from Indelco-Chatillon Co. at a speed of
100 mm/minute. The hardness value from this method is expressed in
grams as the shear force required to cut a stick under the above
conditions. According to this method, the hardness of compositions
according to the present invention which may be in stick form may,
for example, range from 30 g to 300 g, such as from 30 g, to 250 g
and further such as from 30 g to 200 g.
[0107] The hardness of the composition of the present invention may
be such that the compositions are self-supporting and can easily
disintegrate to form a satisfactory deposit on a keratinous
material. In addition, this hardness may impart good impact
strength to the inventive compositions which may be molded or cast,
for example, in stick or dish form.
[0108] The skilled artisan may choose to evaluate a composition
using at least one of the tests for hardness outlined above based
on the application envisaged and the hardness desired. If one
obtains an acceptable hardness value, in view of the intended
application, from at least one of these hardness tests, the
composition falls within the scope of the invention.
[0109] As is evident, the hardness of the composition according to
the invention may, for example, be such that the composition is
advantageously self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form
a satisfactory deposit on the skin and/or the lips and/or
superficial body growths, such as keratinous fibers. In addition,
with this hardness, the composition of the invention may have good
impact strength.
[0110] According to the invention, the composition in stick form
may have the behavior of a deformable, flexible elastic solid,
giving noteworthy elastic softness on application. The compositions
in stick form of the prior art do not have these properties of
elasticity and flexibility.
[0111] The at least one amphiphilic compound which can be used in
the composition of the invention may, for example, comprise a
lipophilic part linked to a polar part, the lipophilic part
comprising a carbon-based chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms,
for example from 18 to 32 carbon atoms or from 18 to 28 carbon
atoms. The polar part of the at least one amphiphilic compound may,
in one embodiment, be the residue of a compound chosen from
alcohols and polyols comprising from 1 to 12 hydroxyl groups, and
polyoxyalkylenes comprising at least 2 oxyalkylene units and
comprising from 0 to 20 oxypropylene units and/or from 0 to 20
oxyethylene units. For example, the at least one amphiphilic
compound may be an ester chosen from the hydroxystearates, oleates
and isostearates of glycerol, of sorbitan and of methylglucose, and
from branched C.sub.12 to C.sub.26 fatty alcohols such as
octyldodecanol. Among these esters, monoesters and mixtures of
mono- and diesters can also be used.
[0112] The respective contents of the at least one coloring agent,
the at least one polymer comprising a hetero atom and optionally
that of at least one amphiphilic compound are chosen according to
the desired hardness of the composition and as a function of the
specific application envisaged. For example, the respective amounts
of polymer, of coloring agent and of amphiphilic compound may be
such that they produce a stick which can be worn down. In that
case, the amount of the at least one polymer may be chosen from
0.5% to 80% of the total weight of the composition, for example
from 2% to 60%, from 5% to 40%, and from 5% to 25%. The amount of
at least one amphiphilic compound in practice, if it is present,
may be chosen from 0.1% to 35% of the total weight of the
composition, for example from 1% to 20% or from 1% to 15%.
[0113] The at least one coloring agent and/or the at least one
heteropolymer may have an affinity with the fatty phase and in
particular with a chemical portion of one of the oils forming the
liquid fatty phase of the composition so that physical links with
the oils, such as hydrogen bonds, or as above-mentioned are
formed.
Other ingredients
[0114] The composition of the present invention, in one embodiment,
may comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. The composition
may also further comprise at least one suitable additive commonly
used in the field concerned chosen from anionic surfactants,
nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants,
zwitterionic surfactants, plasticizers, antioxidants, essential
oils, preserving agents, waxes, fragrances, neutralizing agents,
liposoluble polymers, and cosmetically active agents and
dermatological active agents such as, for example,
anti-inflammatory agents, defoaming agents, emollients,
moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, and sunscreens. The
at least one additive is generally present in an amount ranging
from 0% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition,
such as from 0% to 10%.
[0115] In one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention
further comprise at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of the at
least one wax include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax,
beeswax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, olive wax,
paraffin waxes, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax,
montan wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch
synthesis, silicone waxes, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil,
fatty acid esters, and fatty acid ester glycerides. If present, the
at least one wax is generally present at an amount of up to 3%
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing
quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used
in the specification and claims are to be understood as being
modified in all instances by the term "about." Accordingly, unless
indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in
the following specification and attached claims are approximations
that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be
obtained by the present invention. At the very least, and not as an
attempt to limit the application of the doctrine of equivalents to
the scope of the claims, each numerical parameter should be
construed in light of the number of significant digits and ordinary
rounding approaches.
[0117] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters
setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations,
the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are
reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however,
inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the
standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements.
The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention
without limiting the scope as a result.
EXAMPLES.
[0118] The following compositions were prepared and their gloss and
color were evaluated.
1 Inventive Comparative INCI Name Composition Composition A
Preservative 1.40 1.40 Film Formers 7.40 7.40 Thickening agent 0.10
0.10 Humectant 2.00 2.00 Triethanolamine 1.50 1.50 Anti-foam agent
0.10 0.10 B Waxes 10.75 17.02 Glyceryl Stearate 4.00 4.00 Stearic
acid 3.00 3.00 Ethylenediamine/ 6.27 - Tall oil dimer acid/ Stearyl
alcohol copolymer Black Pigment 6.00 6.00 C Dimethicone 0.30 0.30
copolyol Cyclopentasiloxane 2.00 2.00 Cyclopentasiloxane/ 3.00 3.00
Dimethiconol Fillers 3.00 3.00 Conditioning agents 0.70 0.70
[0119]
[0120] The components of phase A were blended together in water and
the mixture was heated to a temperature ranging from 90.sup.C to
95.sup.C. Separately, the components of phase B, except for the
pigment, were blended together and the mixture was heated to a
temperature ranging from 95.sup.C to 100.sup.C. Once the waxes had
melted, the pigment was dispersed into the mixture with stirring.
The two mixtures were then combined with agitation and the
combination was homogenized. The combined mixture was then cooled
to a temperature ranging from 60.sup.C to 65.sup.C, and the
components of phase C were added.
[0121] The gloss and the color of the inventive composition
comprising at least one heteroatom (ethylenediamine/tall oil dimer
acid/stearyl alcohol copolymer) and the comparative composition
were evaluated and compared as follows. The gloss and the color of
each of the compositions were visually evaluated by spreading a
similar amount of each composition onto a piece of white paper. The
color of the inventive composition was observed to be much more
intense than the color of the comparative composition. Further, the
inventive composition was observed to be much glossier than the
comparative composition indicating greater dispersion of the
pigment in the inventive composition.
[0122] The gloss, and thus the dispersion of the pigment, of each
of the compositions was also evaluated by measuring the L value of
each composition using a Minolta Chroma Meter CR-300. The L value
of the inventive composition was 28.39, while the L value of the
comparative composition was 29.99. As previously discussed, L
defines the intensity of the shade which is proportionally more
intense the lower the value of L (0 = black, 100 = white). Thus,
the results demonstrate that the dispersion of the pigment was
significantly better in the inventive composition comprising the at
least one heteropolymer than in the comparative composition without
the at least one heteropolymer.
* * * * *