U.S. patent application number 09/937314 was filed with the patent office on 2004-05-06 for transfer-resistant composition structured in rigid form by a polymer.
Invention is credited to Ferrari, Veronique.
Application Number | 20040086478 09/937314 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 8846277 |
Filed Date | 2004-05-06 |
United States Patent
Application |
20040086478 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Ferrari, Veronique |
May 6, 2004 |
Transfer-resistant composition structured in rigid form by a
polymer
Abstract
The invention relates to a physiologically acceptable, in
particular cosmetic, composition comprising at least one liquid
fatty phase comprising at least one volatile solvent, the liquid
fatty phase begin structured by at least one polymer with a
weight-average molecular mass of less than or equal to 100 000,
comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbonaceous repeat
units provided with at least one heteroatom and b) optionally
functionalized pendant and/or end fatty chains having from 6 to 120
carbon atoms which are bonded to these units, the liquid fatty
phase and the polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.
This composition is provided in particular in the form of a stick
of lipstick, the application of which results in a notable glossy
and transfer-free layer with good hold over time.
Inventors: |
Ferrari, Veronique;
(Maisons-Alfort, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
FINNEGAN, HENDERSON, FARABOW, GARRETT & DUNNER
LLP
1300 I STREET, NW
WASHINGTON
DC
20005
US
|
Family ID: |
8846277 |
Appl. No.: |
09/937314 |
Filed: |
December 6, 2001 |
PCT Filed: |
January 24, 2001 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/FR01/00229 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.17 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q 1/06 20130101; A61K
8/88 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/070.17 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/06; A61K
007/11 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jan 24, 2000 |
FR |
00/00920 |
Claims
1. A structured composition comprising at least one liquid fatty
phase comprising at least one volatile solvent, the liquid fatty
phase being structured by at least one polymer with a
weight-average molecular mass of less than or equal to 100 000
comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbonaceous repeat
units provided with at least one heteroatom and b) at least one
optionally functionalized pendant and/or end fatty chain having
from 6 to 120 carbon atoms which is bonded to these
hydrocarbonaceous units, the liquid fatty phase and the polymer
forming a physiologically acceptable medium.
2. The composition as claimed in claim [lacuna], characterized in
that the heteroatom is a nitrogen atom.
3. The composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in
that the heteroatom-comprising units are amides.
4. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 40 to 98% of
the total number of heteroatom-comprising units and fatty
chains.
5. The composition as claimed in one of the receding claims,
characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 50 to 95% of
the total number of heteroatom-comprising units and fatty
chains.
6. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the pendant fatty chains are bonded directly
to at least one of said heteroatoms.
7. A structured composition comprising at least one liquid fatty
phase comprising at least one volatile solvent, the liquid fatty
phase being structured by at least one polyamide with a
weight-average molecular mass ranging from 1 000 to 30 000
comprising a) a polymer backbone having amide repeat units and b)
optionally at least one optionally functionalized pendant and/or
end fatty chain having from 12 to 120 carbon atoms which is bonded
to these amide units, the liquid fatty phase and the polymer
forming a physiologically acceptable medium.
8. The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized
in that the fatty chains represent from 40 to 98% of the total
number of amide units and fatty chains.
9. The composition as claimed in claim 7 or 8, characterized in
that the fatty chains represent from 50 to 95% of the total number
of amide units and fatty chains.
10. The composition as claimed in one of claims 7 to 9,
characterized in that the pendant fatty chains are bonded directly
to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units.
11. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the weight-average molar mass ranges from 1
000 to 30 000, preferably from 2 000 to 20 000 and better still
from 2 000 to 10 000.
12. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the end fatty chains are bonded to the
backbone via ester groups.
13. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the fatty chains have from 12 to 120 carbon
atoms and better still from 12 to 68 carbon atoms.
14. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the polymer is chosen from polymers of
following formula (I) and their mixtures: 2in which n denotes a
number of amide units, such that the number of ester groups
represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide
groups; R.sup.1 is, in each case, independently an alkyl or alkenyl
group having at least 4 carbon atoms; R.sup.2 independently
represents, in each case, a C.sub.4 to C.sub.42 hydrocarbonaceous
group, provided that 50% of the R.sup.2 groups represent a C.sub.30
to C.sub.42 hydrocarbonaceous group; R.sup.3 independently
represents, in each case, an organic group provided with at least 2
carbon atoms, with hydrogen atoms and optionally with one or more
oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R.sup.4 independently represents, in
each case, a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1 to C.sub.10 alkyl group or a
direct bond to R.sup.3 or another R.sup.4, so that the nitrogen
atom to which both R.sup.3 and R.sup.4 are bonded forms part of a
heterocyclic structure defined by R.sup.1--N--R.sup.3, with at
least 50% of the R.sup.4 groups representing a hydrogen atom.
15. The composition as claimed in the preceding claim,
characterized in that R.sup.1 is a C.sub.12 to C.sub.22 alkyl
group.
16. The composition as claimed in either of claims 14 and 15,
characterized in that R.sup.2 are groups having from 30 to 42
carbon atoms.
17. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the polymer represents from 0.5 to 80% of the
total weight of the composition and better still from 5 to 40%.
18. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, in
which the volatile solvent is chosen from oils which do not have a
flashpoint, oils which have a flashpoint ranging from 40 to
100.degree. C., and heir mixtures.
19. The composition as claimed in one of the receding claims,
characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile
hydrocarbonaceous oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their
mixtures.
20. The composition as Claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from branched
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 alkanes, branched C.sub.8-C.sub.16 esters and
their mixtures.
21. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 and in particular C.sub.8-C.sub.13 isoparaffins,
isododecane and their mixtures.
22. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the volatile solvent represents a level by
mass of 3 to 99.5%, preferably of 10 to 75% and better still of 15
to 45%.
23. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the liquid fatty phase additionally comprises
at least one nonvolatile oil.
24. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the liquid fatty phase additionally comprises
at least one nonvolatile oil chosen from hydrocarbonaceous oils of
mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, synthetic esters or ethers,
silicone oils and their mixtures.
25. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the liquid fatty phase comprises at least 40%
of the total weight of the liquid fatty phase of nonpolar oil and
better still from 50 to 100% of the total weight of the liquid
fatty phase.
26. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the liquid fatty phase represents from 5 to
99% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 20
to 75%.
27. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it constitutes a composition for caring for
and/or treating and/or making up keratinous substances.
28. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one
coloring material.
29. The composition as claimed in claim 26, characterized in that
the coloring material is chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic
dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and their mixtures.
30. The composition as claimed in claim 28 or 29, characterized in
that the coloring material is present in a proportion of 0.01 to
50% of the total weight of the composition, preferably of 5 to
30%.
31. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises at least one additive chosen
from water, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives,
fragrances, fillers, waxes, fatty compounds which are pasty at
ambient temperature, neutralizing agents, fat-soluble polymers or
polymers which are dispersible in the medium, cosmetic or
dermatological active principles, dispersants, and their
mixtures.
32. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it comprises at least one fat-soluble polymer
or polymer which is dispersible in the medium chosen from
vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, C.sub.3 to C.sub.22 alkene copolymers
and their combinations.
33. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it is provided in the form of a stiff gel and
in particular of an anhydrous stick.
34. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it is provided in the form of a mascara,
eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, blusher, deodorant or
make-up-removing product, product for making up the body,
eyeshadow, face powder, concealer, shampoo, conditioner, antisun
protection [lacuna], or product for caring for the face or
body.
35. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it constitutes a make-up product.
36. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that it is provided in the form of a stick with a
hardness ranging from 30 o 150 g.
37. A lipstick composition as a stick comprising at least one
continuous liquid fatty phase comprising at least one volatile
solvent, the liquid fatty phase being structured by at least one
nonwaxy polymer which confers on the composition the appearance of
a deformable and elastic solid with a hardness ranging from 30 to
150 g, in the absence of wax.
38. The composition as claimed in claim 37, characterized in that
it additionally comprises at least one additive chosen from fatty
compounds which are pasty at ambient temperature, fat-soluble
polymers and their mixtures.
39. A cosmetic process for caring for, making up or treating human
keratinous substances, comprising the application to the keratinous
substances of the cosmetic composition in accordance with one of
the preceding claims.
40. The use of a combination of at least one volatile solvent and
of at least one polymer with a weight-average molecular mass
ranging from 1 000 to 30 000, comprising a) a polymer backbone
having hydrocarbonaceous repeat units provided with at least one
heteroatom and b) optionally at least one optionally functionalized
pendant and/or end fatty chain having from 12 to 120 carbon atoms
which is bonded to these hydrocarbonaceous units, in a cosmetic
composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable
composition, for decreasing the transfer onto and/or the deposition
on a substrate of traces of a film of said composition, applied to
keratinous substances, brought into contact with said substrate
and/or for increasing the hold of said film and/or for decreasing
its migration.
41. The use as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized in
that the polymer is a polyamide comprising end groups with an ester
group comprising a hydrocarbonaceous chain having from 10 to 42
carbon atoms.
42. The use as claimed in claim 40 or 41, characterized in that the
volatile solvent is chosen from C.sub.8-C.sub.16 and in particular
C.sub.8-C.sub.13 isoparaffins, isododecane and their mixtures.
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for caring
for and/or treating and/or making up the skin, including the scalp,
and/or lips of human beings, comprising a liquid fatty phase
including a volatile solvent, structured by a specific polymer.
This composition is provided in particular in the form of a make-up
stick and more specifically a stick of lipstick, the application of
which results in a notable glossy and transfer-free layer.
[0002] In cosmetic or dermatological products, it is commonplace to
find a structured, namely gelled and/or stiffened, liquid fatty
phase; this is in, particular the case in solid compositions, such
as deodorants, lip balms, lipsticks, concealers and cast
foundations. This structuring is obtained using waxes and/or
fillers. Unfortunately, these waxes and fillers have a tendency to
render the composition matt, which is not always desirable, in
particular for a lipstick; this is because women are always looking
for a lipstick in the form of a stick depositing an increasingly
glossy film.
[0003] The term "liquid fatty phase" is understood to mean, within
the meaning of the invention, a fatty phase which is liquid at
ambient temperature (25.degree. C.) and at atmospheric pressure
(760 mm of Hg) and which is composed of one or more fatty
substances which are liquid at ambient temperature, also known as
oils, and which are generally compatible with one another.
[0004] The structuring of the liquid fatty phase makes it possible
in particular to limit its exudation from solid compositions, in
particular in hot and humid regions, and furthermore to limit,
after deposition on the skin or lips, the migration of this phase
into the wrinkles and fine lines, which is particularly desired for
a lipstick or an eyeshadow. This is because significant migration
of the liquid fatty phase, in particular when it is laden with
coloring materials, leads to an unsightly effect around the lips
and eyes, particularly accentuating the wrinkles and fine lines.
This migration is often mentioned by women as a major failing of
conventional lipsticks or eyeshadows.
[0005] The gloss is essentially related to the nature of the liquid
fatty phase. Thus, it is possible to reduce the level of waxes and
fillers in the composition in order to increase the gloss of a
lipstick but then the migration of the liquid fatty phase
increases. In other words, the levels of waxes and of fillers
necessary for the preparation of a stick of suitable hardness which
does not exude at ambient temperature are a brake on the gloss of
the layer.
[0006] The Applicant has found that the loss in gloss of a stick
comprising waxes is related to the anisotropic crystalline
structure of these compounds. The Applicant has thus envisaged the
manufacture of a stick while reducing the level of wax and/or
fillers.
[0007] Furthermore, the majority of make-up or care compositions,
when they are applied to the skin, eyelashes or lips, exhibit the
disadvantage of transferring, that is to say of being at least
partly deposited and leaving traces on certain substrates with
which they may be brought into contact, in particular a glass, a
cup, a cigarette, an item of clothing or the skin. This results in
mediocre persistence of the applied film, requiring the regular
renewal of the application of the composition, in particular a
foundation or lipstick composition. In point of fact, it is the
wish of users today to beautify their faces, including the lips,
and their bodies while spending the least possible time doing so.
Furthermore, the appearance of these unacceptable traces, in
particular on blouse collars, can dissuade some women from using
this type of make up.
[0008] For some years, cosmetic scientists have been interested in
lipstick compositions and more recently in foundation compositions
which are "transfer-free". Thus, the company Shiseido has
envisaged, in its Patent Application JP-A-61-65809, "transfer-free"
liquid lipstick compositions comprising a siloxysilicate resin
(with a three-dimensional network), a volatile silicone oil with a
cyclic silicone chain and pulverulent fillers. Likewise, the
company Noevier has disclosed, in the document JP-A-62-61911,
"transfer-free" lipstick, eyeliner and foundation compositions
comprising one or more volatile silicones in combination with one
or more hydrocarbonaceous waxes.
[0009] These compositions, although exhibiting improved
"transfer-free" properties, have the disadvantage of leaving on the
lips, after evaporation of the silicone oils, a film which becomes
uncomfortable over time (feeling of dryness and of tautness),
dissuading a number of women from this type of lipstick. In
addition, the film deposited is matt.
[0010] Furthermore, the company Procter & Gamble has envisaged,
in its Patent Application WO-A-96/40044, lipstick compositions
exhibiting "transfer-free" properties comprising a volatile oil and
a non-volatile oil of perfluoropolyether type which are
incompatible. Furthermore, this application discloses the
improvement in the gloss by virtue of the prior dispersion of an
oily phase of a matrix and the ability of this oily phase to
separate during the application of the product to the support and
to migrate to the surface of the film thus deposited.
[0011] This system has the disadvantage of requiring a good
dispersion of the oily phase in the matrix and can lead to problems
of stability of the product related to the necessary poor
compatibility of the oily phase with the matrix (separation of the
composition in its packaging). Furthermore, fluorinated oils
exhibit the disadvantage of being difficult to formulate, in
particular in anhydrous media, thus limiting the range of cosmetic
products which can be produced industrially.
[0012] Revlon has also envisaged, in the document U.S. Pat. No.
5,837,223, combining a fluorinated Guerbet ester with a
siloxysilicate resin and volatile solvents, such as cyclic
silicones. The presence of siloxysilicate resin also results in
uncomfortable matt films. Furthermore, the presence of fluorinated
oil makes it difficult to formulate the cosmetic products. In
Patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,849,275, Revlon has also envisaged combining
a fluorinated polymer with volatile solvents, such as cyclic
silicones. Here again, the presence of fluorinated compounds makes
it difficult to formulate the cosmetic products.
[0013] Application EP-A-775 483 from L'Oral discloses liquid
lipstick compositions comprising a continuous aqueous medium
including a polymer dispersion capable of forming a continuous,
glossy and "transfer-free" film on the lips. Unfortunately, these
compositions result in a film on the lips, continually in movement,
which is uncomfortable and which confers a feeling of tautness. In
addition, it is very difficult to introduce pigments into these
compositions with destabilizing them.
[0014] Application EP-A-0 749 746 from L'Oral disclose lipstick
compositions comprising a dispersion of polymer particles which are
stabilized at the surface by a polymeric stabilizing agent. These
compositions have the disadvantage of only being able to comprise a
low proportion of polar oils known in conventional compositions for
contributing gloss to the deposited film. In particular, the
presence of a high proportion of polar oils (at least 5%) lead to
flocculation of the particles and thus to instability of the
compositions over time.
[0015] The need thus remains for a composition which does not
exhibit the above disadvantages and which has in particular notable
"transfer-free" properties, even during pronounced pressure or
rubbing, great hold over time and a glossy appearance and which
does not dry out the skin or the lips to which it is applied,
either during application or over time. Furthermore, this
composition is stable over time and easy to manufacture and the
introduction of pigments is easily carried out.
[0016] A specific subject matter of the invention is a composition
for caring for and/or making up and/or treating the skin and/or
lips of the face and/or the superficial body growths which makes it
possible to convey the abovementioned disadvantages.
[0017] The Applicant has found, surprisingly, that the use of
specific polymers in combination with one or more volatile solvents
makes it possible to produce a stick, the application of which to
the lips results in a film which has notable cosmetic properties.
In particular, the film is glossy, flexible, comfortable and
"transfer-free". Furthermore, the composition is stable over time
and does not exude at ambient temperature.
[0018] The term "stable" is understood to mean a composition which
does not exude at ambient temperature for at least 2 months, indeed
even up to 9 months.
[0019] The invention applies not only to products for making up the
lips, such as lipsticks, lip glosses and lip pencils, but also to
products for caring for and/or treating the skin, including the
scalp, face or body, and the lips, such as products, in particular
stick products, for the anti-sun protection of the skin of the face
or lips, to products for making up the skin, both of the human face
and of the human body, such as foundations, optionally cast as a
stick or in a dish, concealers, eyeshadows and temporary tattooing
products, to body hygiene products, such as deodorants, in
particular stick deodorants, shampoos and conditioners, to products
for making up the eyes, such as eyeliners, pencils and mascaras,
more especially in the cake form, and to products for caring for
keratinous fibres, such as the hair and eyebrows.
[0020] More specifically, a subject matter of the invention is a
structured composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase
comprising at least one volatile solvent, the liquid fatty phase
being structured by at least one polymer with a weight-average
molecular mass of less than or equal to 100 000 comprising a) a
polymer backbone having hydrocarbonaceous repeat units provided
with at least one heteroatom and b) at least one optionally
functionalized pendant and/or end fatty chain having from 6 to 120
carbon atoms which is bonded to these hydrocarbonaceous units, the
liquid fatty phase and the polymer forming a physiologically
acceptable medium.
[0021] The term "at least one fatty chain" is understood to mean
one or more pendant fatty chains, one or more end fatty chains, or
a combination of these chains. The composition of the invention
advantageously does not comprise silicone resin with siloxysilicate
units or trimethylated silica, in order to retain the comfort
properties of the composition.
[0022] The composition of the invention can be provided in the form
of a paste, a solid or a more or less viscous cream. It can be an
oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or a stiff or soft anhydrous
gel. It is provided in particular in the form cast as a stick or in
a dish and more especially in the form of a stiff anhydrous gel, in
particular an anhydrous stick. More especially, it is provided in
the form of a stiff gel which is translucent or transparent, the
liquid fatty phase forming the continuous phase.
[0023] The gelling of the oil can be adjusted according to the
nature of the heteroatom-comprising polymer used and can be such
that a stiff structure is obtained in the form of a wand or a
stick. These wands, when they are colored, make it possible, after
application, to obtain a layer which is glossy and homogeneous in
color, which does not transfer, in particular onto a substrate
brought into contact with the film, after evaporation of the
volatile solvent, and which has good hold, in particular of the
color, over time.
[0024] The structuring polymer of the composition of the invention
is a solid which is nondeformable at ambient temperature
(25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg). It is
capable of structuring the composition without opacifying it.
[0025] The term "functionalized chains" is understood to mean,
within the meaning of the invention, an alkyl chain comprising one
or more functional or reactive groups chosen in particular from the
hydroxyl, ether, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene, carboxylic acid,
amine, halogen, ester, siloxane or polysiloxane groups, the halogen
groups including fluorinated or perfluorinated groups. In addition,
the hydrogen atoms of one or more fatty chains can be at least
partially substituted by fluorine atoms.
[0026] The term "polymer" is understood to mean, within the meaning
of the invention, a compound having at least 2 identical repeat
units, preferably three identical units.
[0027] The term "hydrocarbonaceous repeat unit" is understood to
mean, within the meaning of the invention, a unit comprising from 2
to 80 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms,
carrying hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms, which can be
linear, branched or cyclic and saturated or unsaturated. These
units each additionally comprise from one to several non-pendant
heteroatoms which are found in the polymer backbone. These
heteroatoms are chosen from nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus atoms
and their combinations and better still nitrogen atoms, optionally
in combination with one or more oxygen atoms. Preferably, the units
comprise at least one nitrogen atom, in particular a non-pendant
nitrogen atom. In addition, the units advantageously comprise a
carbonyl group.
[0028] These heteroatom-comprising units are in particular amide
units, forming a backbone of the polyamide type, or carbamate
and/or urea units, forming a polyurethane, polyurea and/or
polyurea-urethane backbone. These units are preferably amide units.
The pendant chains are advantageously bonded directly to at least
one of the heteroatoms of the polymer backbone. When the repeat
units are urea units, the end chains are not bonded to the polyurea
backbone via a urethane unit.
[0029] The polymer can comprise silicone units or oxyalkylenated
units between the hydrocarbonaceous units.
[0030] In addition, the polymer of the composition of the invention
advantageously comprises from 40 to 98% of fatty chains with
respect to the total number of heteroatom-comprising units and of
fatty chains and better still from 50 to 95%. The nature and the
proportion of the heteroatom-comprising units depends on the nature
of the liquid fatty phase and is in particular similar to the
nature of the fatty phase. Thus, the more the heteroatom-comprising
units increase in polarity and in proportion in the polymer, which
corresponds to the presence of several heteroatoms, the greater the
affinity of the polymer for polar oils. On the other hand, the more
the heteroatom-comprising units decrease in polarity, indeed even
become nonpolar, or in proportion, the greater the affinity of the
polymer for nonpolar oils.
[0031] The fatty chains are bonded to the polymer backbone via a
bonding group which can be a single bond, a urea, urethane, ester,
ether, amine, thioether, thioester, thiourea or thiourethane group,
or their combinations. The bonding group is preferably the ester
group.
[0032] Another subject matter of the invention is a structured
composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase comprising
at least one volatile solvent, the liquid fatty phase being
structured by at least one polyamide with a weight-average
molecular mass of less or equal to 100 000 comprising a) a polymer
backbone having amide repeat units and b) optionally at least one
optionally functionalized pendant and/or end fatty chain having
from 6 to 120 carbon atoms which is bonded to these amide units,
the liquid fatty phase and the polymer forming a physiologically
acceptable medium.
[0033] Preferably, the pendant fatty chains are bonded to at least
one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units.
[0034] In particular, the fatty chains of this polyamide represent
from 40 to 98% of the total number of amide units and of fatty
chains and better still from 50 to 95%.
[0035] Mention may be made, as preferred structuring polymers which
can be used in the invention, of polyamides branched by pendant
fatty chains and/or end fatty chains having from 6 to 120 carbon
atoms, in particular from 12 to 120 carbon atoms and better still
from 12 to 68 carbon atoms, the end fatty chains being bonded to
the polymer backbone via ester groups.
[0036] These polymers are preferably polymers resulting from a
polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32
carbon atoms (having in particular from 32 to 44 carbon atoms) with
a diamine having at least 2 carbon atoms (having in particular from
2 to 36 carbon atoms). The diacid is preferably a dimer of a fatty
acid having at least 16 carbon atoms, such as oleic, linoleic or
linolenic acid. The diamine is preferably ethylenediamine,
hexylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, phenylenediamine or
ethylenetriamine and better still ethylenediamine. For polymers
comprising one or 2 end carboxylic acid groups, it is advantageous
to esterify them with a monoalcohol having at least 4 carbon atoms,
preferably from 10 to 36 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24
and even better still from 16 to 24, for example comprising 18
carbon atoms.
[0037] These polymers are more particularly those disclosed in the
document U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657 of Union Camp. Each of these
polymers satisfies in particular the following formula (I): 1
[0038] in which n denotes a whole number of amide units, such that
the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total
number of ester and amide groups; R.sup.1 is, in each case,
independently an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon
atoms and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; R.sup.2
independently represents, in each case, a C.sub.4 to C.sub.42
hydrocarbonaceous group, provided that 50% of the R.sup.2 groups
represent a C.sub.30 to C.sub.42 hydrocarbonaceous group; R.sup.3
independently represents, in each case, an organic group provided
with at least 2 carbon atoms, with hydrogen atoms and optionally
with one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R.sup.4
independently represents, in each case, a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1
to C.sub.10 alkyl group or a direct bond to R.sup.3 or to another
R.sup.4, so that the nitrogen atom to which both R.sup.3 and
R.sup.4 are bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined
by R.sup.4--N--R.sup.3, with at least 50% of the R.sup.4 groups
representing a hydrogen atom.
[0039] In the specific case of the formula (I), the optionally
functionalized end fatty chains within the meaning of the invention
are end chains bonded to the final heteroatom, in this instance
nitrogen, of a polyamide backbone.
[0040] In particular, the ester groups of the formula (I), which
form part of the end and/or pendant fatty chains within the meaning
of the invention, represent from 15 to 40% of the total number of
ester and amide groups and better still from 20 to 35%.
Furthermore, n advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1
to 5 and better still from 3 to 5. Preferably, R.sup.1 is a
C.sub.12 to C.sub.22 alkyl group and preferably a C.sub.16 to
C.sub.22 alkyl group. Advantageously, R.sup.2 can be a C.sub.10 to
C.sub.42 hydrocarbonaceous (alkylene) group. Preferably, 50% at
least and better still 75% of the R.sup.2 groups are groups having
from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other R.sup.2 groups are C.sub.4 to
C.sub.19 and even C.sub.4 to C.sub.12 hydrogenated groups.
Preferably, R.sup.3 represents a C.sub.2 to C.sub.36
hydrocarbonaceous group or a polyoxyalkylenated group and R.sup.4
represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R.sup.3 represents a
C.sub.2 to C.sub.12 hydrocarbonaceous group.
[0041] The hydrocarbonaceous groups can be linear, cyclic or
branched and saturated or unsaturated groups. Furthermore, the
alkyl and alkylene groups can be linear or branched and saturated
or unsaturated groups.
[0042] Advantageously, the polymer of the composition of the
invention comprises a weight-average molecular mass ranging
[lacuna] 1 000 to 30 000, preferably ranging from 2 000 to 20 000
and better still from 2 000 to 10 000.
[0043] According to the invention, the structuring of the liquid
fatty phase is obtained using one or more polymers of formula (I).
The polymers of formula (I) are generally provided in the form of
blends of polymers, it being possible for these blends additionally
to comprise a synthetic product (corresponding to a compound of
formula (I) with n having the value 0), that is to say a
diester.
[0044] Mention may be made, by way of examples of structuring
polymers which can be used in the composition according to the
invention, of the commercial products sold by Bush Boake Allen
under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. They are sold
respectively in the form of an 80% (as active material) gel in a
mineral oil and a 100% (as active material) gel. They have a
softening point of 88 to 94.degree. C. These commercial products
ate a blend of copolymer of a C.sub.36 diacid condensed with
ethylene-diamine, with an average molecular mass of approximately 6
000.
[0045] The end ester groups result from the esterification of the
remaining acid endings with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or their
mixtures (also known as cetearyl alcohol).
[0046] Mention may also be made, as structuring polymer which can
be used in the invention, of polyamide resins resulting from the
condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and of a diamine
(including compounds having more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 amine
groups), the carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent individual units
being condensed via an amide bond. These polyamide resins are in
particular those sold under the trade name Versamid.RTM. by the
companies General Mills Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or
1655) or by Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp. under the trade name
Onamid.RTM., in particular Onamid S or C. These resins have a
weight-average molecular mass ranging from 6 000 to 9 000. For
further information on these polyamides, reference may be made to
the documents U.S. Pat. No. 3,645,705 and U.S. Pat. No. 3,148,125.
More especially, Versamid.RTM. 930 or 744 is used.
[0047] It is also possible useful the polyamides sold by Union Camp
Corp. under the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613,
2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) and the product sold under the
reference Macromelt 6212 by Henkel. For further information on
these polyamides, reference may be made to document U.S. Pat. No. 5
500 209.
[0048] The structuring polymers of the composition of the invention
advantageously have a softening temperature of greater than
65.degree. C. and in particular of greater than 70.degree. C. which
can range up to 190.degree. C. It preferably exhibits a softening
temperature ranging from 80 to 130.degree. C. and better still from
80 to 105.degree. C. These, polymers are in particular nonwaxy
and/or noncrystalline polymers. This softening temperature is lower
than that of known structuring polymers, which facilitates the
processing of the polymers which are a subject matter of the
invention and limits the decomposition of the liquid fatty
phase.
[0049] The polymers comprising fatty chain(s) which are a subject
matter of the invention exhibit, because of their fatty chain, good
solubility in oils (namely water-immiscible liquid compounds) and
thus result in macroscopically homogeneous compositions, even with
a high level (at least 25%) of polymer, in contrast to polymers
without a fatty chain.
[0050] The polymer is advantageously used in combination with at
least one amphiphilic compound which is liquid and nonvolatile at
ambient temperature and which has a hydrophilic/lipophilic balance
(HLB) value of less than 12 and in particular ranging from 1 to 8
and preferably from 1 to 5. According to the invention, one or more
amphiphilic compounds can be used. The purpose of these amphiphilic
compounds is to strengthen the structuring properties of the
heteroatom-comprising polymer, to facilitate the processing of the
polymer and to improve the ability to be deposited of the
stick.
[0051] According to the invention, the composition can have a
hardness ranging from 20 to, 800 g and better still from 20 to 900
g, in particular from 20 to 600 g and, for example, from 150 to 450
g. This hardness can be measured according to a method of
penetration of a probe into said composition and in particular
using a texture analyzer (for example, TA-XT2i from Rho) equipped
with an ebonite cylinder with a height of 25 mm and a diameter of 8
mm. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20.degree. C. at the
center of 5 samples of said composition. The cylinder is introduced
into each composition sample at a prerate of 2 mm/s, then at a rate
of 0.5 mm/s and finally at a postrate of 2 mm/s, the total
displacement being 1 mm. The value recorded of the hardness is that
of the maximum peak. The measurement error is .+-.50 g.
[0052] The hardness can also be measured by the "cheesewire"
method, which consists in cutting a stick of lipstick with a width
of 8.1 mm and in measuring the hardness at 20.degree. C. by means
of a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from Indelco-Chatillon moving at a rate of
100 mm/minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in
grams) necessary to cut a stick under these conditions. According
to this method, the hardness of a stick composition according to
the invention ranges from 30 to 150 g, preferably from 30 to 120 g
and, for example, from 30 to 50 g.
[0053] The hardness of the composition according to the invention
is such that the composition is self-supporting and can easily
disintegrate to form a satisfactory layer on the skin and/or lips
and/or superficial body growths. In addition, with this hardness,
the composition of the invention possesses good impact
strength.
[0054] According to the invention, the composition in the stick
form has the behavior of a deformable and flexible elastic solid,
conferring, on application, a notable elastic-softness. The stick
compositions of the prior art do not have this property of
elasticity and of flexibility.
[0055] The amphiphilic compound or compounds which can be used in
the composition of the invention comprise a lipophilic part bonded
to a polar part, the lipophilic part comprising a carbonaceous
chain having at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 18 to 32
carbon atoms and better still from 18 to 28 carbon atoms. The polar
part of this or these amphiphilic compound or compounds is
preferably the residue of a compound chosen from alcohols and
polyols having from 1 to 12 hydroxyl groups or polyoxyalkylenes
comprising at least 2 oxyalkylene units and having from 0 to 20
oxypropylene units and/or from 0 to 20 oxyethylene units. In
particular, the amphiphilic compound is an ester chosen from
hydroxystearates, oleates or isostearates of glycerol, of sorbitan
or of methylglucose or alternatively branched C.sub.12 to C.sub.26
fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol, and their mixtures.
Preference is given, among these esters, to monoesters and mixtures
of mono- and diesters.
[0056] The level of amphiphilic compound and that of the
heteroatom-comprising polymer are chosen according to the gel
hardness desired and according to the specific application
envisaged. The respective amounts of polymer and amphiphilic
compound must be such that they make it possible to obtain a
disintegrable stick.
[0057] In practice, the amount of polymer represents from 0.5 to
80% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 5
to 40%. In practice, the amount of amphiphilic compound represents
from 0.1% to 35% of the total weight of the composition and better
still from 1% to 15%, if it is present.
[0058] The liquid fatty phase of the composition advantageously
comprises more than 30% and better still more than 40% of liquid
oil(s) having an affinity with the heteroatom-comprising units
(similar chemical structure) and better still from 50 to 100%. In
particular, the liquid fatty phase structured by a backbone of
polymeric type comprises a majority amount, namely greater than 30%
and better still than 40% of the total weight of the liquid fatty
phase and better still from 50 to 100%, of nonpolar liquid oil or
mixture of nonpolar liquid oils and more especially of
hydrocarbonaceous oil(s).
[0059] The term "hydrocarbonaceous oil" is understood to mean,
within the meaning of the invention, oils predominantly comprising
carbon atoms and nitrogen atoms, these oils optionally comprising
an ester, ether, acid or alcohol group.
[0060] For a liquid fatty phase structured by a polymer comprising
a partly silicone backbone, this fatty phase preferably comprises
more than 30% and better still more than 40% of the total weight of
the liquid fatty phase and better still from 50 to 100% of liquid
silicone oil or mixture of liquid silicone oils with respect to the
total weight of the liquid fatty phase.
[0061] For a liquid fatty-phase structured by a nonpolar polymer of
the hydrocarbonaceous type, this fatty phase advantageously
comprises more than 30% and better still more than 40% by weight
and better still from 50 to 100% of nonpolar liquid oil or a
mixture of nonpolar liquid oils, in particular hydrocarbonaceous
oils, with respect to the total weight of the liquid fatty
phase.
[0062] In particular, the polar oils of the invention are:
[0063] hydrocarbonaceous vegetable oils with a high content of
triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol,
the fatty acids of which can have varied C.sub.4 to C.sub.24 chain
lengths, it being possible for these chains to be linear or
branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular
wheat germ, maize, sunflower, karite, castor, sweet almond,
macadamia, apricot, soybean, cottonseed, alfalfa, poppy,
pumpkinseed, sesame, cucumber, rapeseed, avocado, hazelnut, grape
seed, blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa,
olive, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower or musk rose oils;
or triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by
Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812
and 818 by Dynamit Nobel;
[0064] synthetic oils or synthetic esters of formula
R.sub.5COOR.sub.6, in which R.sub.5 represents the residue of a
linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms
and R.sub.6 represents a hydrocarbonaceous chain, in particular a
branched hydrocarbonaceous chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon
atoms, provided that R.sub.5+R.sub.6 is .gtoreq.10, such as, for
example, purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate,
C.sub.12 to C.sub.15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate,
2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, or octanoates,
decanoates or ricinoleates alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxylated
esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and
pentaerythritol esters;
[0065] synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0066] C.sub.8 to C.sub.26 fatty alcohols, such as oleyl
alcohol;
[0067] C.sub.8 to C.sub.26 fatty acids, such as oleic acid;
[0068] their mixtures.
[0069] The nonpolar oils according to the invention are in
particular silicone oils, such as volatile or nonvolatile and
linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are liquid at
ambient temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy
or phenyl groups which are pendant and/or at the silicone chain
end, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated
silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,
phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or
(2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates; linear or branched
hydrocarbons of synthetic or mineral origin, such as volatile or
nonvolatile liquid paraffins and its derivatives, liquid
petrolatum, liquid lanolin, polydecenes, hydrogenated
polyisobutene, such as parleam, or squalane; and their mixtures.
Preferably, the structured oils and more especially those
structured by polyamides and in particular those of formulae (I) or
polyurethanes or polyureas or polyurea-urethanes are nonpolar oils
and more especially an oil or a mixture of oils of the
hydrocarbonaceous type of mineral or synthetic origin chosen in
particular from hydrocarbons, in particular alkanes, such as
parleam oil, isoparaffins, such as isododecane and squalane, and
their mixtures. These oils are advantageously used in combination
with one or more phenylated silicone oils.
[0070] The liquid fatty phase preferably comprises at least one
nonvolatile oil chosen in particular from hydrocarbonaceous oils of
mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, synthetic esters or ethers,
silicone oils and their mixtures.
[0071] The total liquid fatty phase represents, in practice, from 3
to 99.5% and in particular from 5 to 99.5% of the total weight of
the composition, preferably from 20 to 75%.
[0072] The liquid fatty phase of the composition according to the
invention additionally comprises at least one volatile solvent,
namely one or more volatile solvents.
[0073] The term "volatile solvent" is understood to mean, within
the meaning of the invention, any nonaqueous medium capable of
evaporating on contact with the skin or lips in less than one hour
at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile
solvent or solvents of the invention are organic solvents and in
particular volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient
temperature and which have a nonzero vapor pressure, at ambient
temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from
10.sup.-3 to 300 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa to 40 000 Ps) and preferably
greater than 0.03 mm of Hg (3.9 Pa).
[0074] The volatile solvents of the invention are preferably
cosmetic oils chosen from oils which do not have a flashpoint, oils
which have a flashpoint ranging from 40.degree. C. to 100.degree.
C., and their mixtures, for the purpose of facilitating their
processing. In addition, they advantageously exhibit a boiling
point at atmospheric pressure of less than 220.degree. C. and
better still of less than 210.degree. C., in particular ranging
from 110 to 210.degree. C.
[0075] According to the invention, these volatile solvents
facilitate in particular the application of the composition to the
skin, lips or superficial body growths. These solvents can be
hydrocarbonaceous solvents, silicone solvents optionally comprising
pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups or alkyl or alkoxy groups at the
silicone chain end, or a mixture of these solvents. Preferably,
these solvents are not monoalcohols comprising at least 7 carbon
atoms.
[0076] Mention may be made, as volatile solvent which can be used
in the invention, of linear or cyclic silicone oils having a
viscosity at ambient temperature of less than 8 cSt and having in
particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally
comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oils which
can be used in the invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane,
heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane,
hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane,
decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their
mixtures.
[0077] Mention may be made, as other volatile solvent which can be
used in the invention, of volatile hydrocarbonaceous oils having
from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular
branched C.sub.8-C.sub.16 alkanes, such as C.sub.8-C.sub.16 and in
particular C.sub.8-C.sub.13 isoalkanes (also known as
isoparaffins), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils
sold under the trade names of Isopars L, E, H or G or of Permetyls,
branched C.sub.8-C.sub.16 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate,
and their mixtures. The volatile solvent is preferably chosen from
volatile hydrocarbonaceous oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms
and their mixtures, with the exception of Isopar M.
[0078] Volatile fluorinated solvents can also be used.
[0079] Use is preferably made of isododecane (permetyls 99 A),
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 isoparaffins (Isopars L, E and H), and their
mixtures, optionally in combination with decamethyltetrasiloxane or
with cyclopentasiloxane.
[0080] These volatile oils represent in particular a level by mass
of 3 to 99.5% with respect to the total weight of the composition
and in particular of 5 to 97.5%, preferably of 10 to 75% and better
still of 15 to 45%. Generally, the amount of volatile solvent is
used in an amount sufficient to produce transfer-free properties.
This amount will be adjusted by a person skilled in the art
according to the desired intensity of the transfer-free
properties.
[0081] The composition of the invention can additionally comprise
any additive conventionally used in the field under consideration
chosen in particular from coloring materials, antioxidants,
essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, fillers, waxes, products
which are pasty at ambient temperature, neutralizing agents,
fat-soluble polymers or polymers which are dispersible in the
medium, cosmetic or dermatological active principles having a
biological effect on the skin, such as, for example, emollients,
moisturizers, vitamins or essential fatty acids, sunscreen agents,
dispersants, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and their
mixtures. These additives can be present in the composition in a
proportion of 0 to 20% (in particular of 0.01 to 20%) of the total
weight of the composition and better still of 0.01 to 10%. The
composition advantageously comprises at least one cosmetic or
dermatological active principle having a biological effect.
[0082] The composition of the invention can additionally comprise,
as additive, an aqueous phase comprising water, optionally
thickened or gelled by a thickener or gelling agent for the aqueous
phase, and optionally water-miscible compounds.
[0083] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to
choose the possible additional additives and/or their amounts so
that the advantageous properties of the composition according to
the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected
by the envisaged addition.
[0084] The composition according to the invention can be provided
in the form of a dyed dermatological composition or composition for
caring for keratinous substances, such as the skin, lips and/or
superficial body growths, in the form of an antisun protection or
body hygiene composition, in particular in the form of a deodorant
or make-up-removing product in the stick form. It can be used in
particular as care base for the skin, superficial body growths or
lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from the cold and/or sun
and/or wind, or care cream for the skin, nails or hair).
[0085] The composition of the invention can also be provided in the
form of a product, in particular a colored product, for making up
the skin, in particular a foundation, optionally exhibiting care or
treatment properties, a blusher, a face powder, an eyeshadow, a
concealer, an eyeliner or a product for making up the body; of a
product for making up the lips, such as a lipstick, optionally
exhibiting care or treatment properties; or of a product for making
up the superficial body growths, such as the nails, the eyelashes,
in particular in the form of a mascara cake, the eyebrows and the
hair, in particular in the form of a pencil. The composition of the
invention is advantageously a makeup product.
[0086] Of course, the composition of the invention must be
cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely must comprise a
nontoxic physiologically acceptable medium capable of being applied
to the skin, superficial body growths or lips of human beings. The
term "cosmetically acceptable" is understood to mean, within the
meaning of the invention, a composition with a pleasant appearance,
smell, taste and feel.
[0087] The composition advantageously comprises at least one
cosmetic active principle and/or one dermatological active
principle and/or at least one coloring material. By virtue of the
combination of at least one volatile solvent, as defined above, and
of at least one polymer with a weight-average molecular mass
ranging from 1 000 to 30 000, as defined above, the active
principles and the coloring materials present in the composition
are trapped, making it possible to maintain them in the place where
they have been applied, namely the lips, skin or superficial body
growths, such as keratinous fibers, after evaporation of the
volatile solvent or solvents, and to limit their transfer to or
redeposition on a substrate other than that to which they were
applied.
[0088] The coloring material according to the invention can be
chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and
pearlescent agents commonly used in cosmetic or dermatological
compositions, and their mixtures. This coloring material is
generally present in a proportion of 0.01 to 50% of the total
weight of the composition, preferably of 5 to 30%, if it is
present, and better still of 8 to 20%.
[0089] The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17,
DC Green 6, .beta.-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow
11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, quinoline yellow or annalto. They can
represent from 0.1 to 20% of the weight of the composition and
better still from 0.1 to 6%.
[0090] The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and/or
organic and coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among
inorganic pigments, of titanium or zinc dioxide, optionally treated
at the surface, zirconium or cerium oxides, iron or chromium
oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and
ferric blue. Mention may be made, among organic pigments, of carbon
black, pigments of D & C type and lakes based on cochineal
carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum,. The pigments
can represent from 0.1 to 50% and better still from 2 to 30% of the
total weight of the composition, if they are present.
[0091] The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white
pearlescent pigments, such as mica covered with titanium or with
bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments, such as titanium
oxide-coated mica with iron oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica with
in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, or titanium
oxide-coated mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned
type, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They
can represent from 0.1 to 20% of the total weight of the
composition and better still from 0.1 to 15%, if they are
present.
[0092] The composition can optionally comprise one or more waxes
for improving the structuring in the stick form, although this
stiff form can be obtained in the absence of wax. A wax, within the
meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic fatty compound
which is solid at ambient temperature (25.degree. C.), which
exhibits a reversible solid/liquid state change, which has a.
melting point of greater than 45.degree. C. and better still than
55.degree. C. which can range up to 200.degree. C., and which
exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline
organization. The size of the crystals is such that the crystals
diffract and/or scatter light, conferring a cloudy and more or less
opaque appearance on the composition. By bringing the wax to its
melting point, it is possible to render it miscible with the oils
and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture but, by bringing
the temperature of the mixture back to ambient temperature,
recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is
obtained. It is this recrystallization in the mixture which is
responsible for the decrease in the gloss of said mixture.
Consequently, the composition advantageously comprises little or no
wax and in particular less than 5% of wax.
[0093] The waxes, within the meaning of the application, are those
generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; they are
in particular of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba,
candelilla, ouricury, Japan, cork fiber or sugar cane wax, paraffin
or lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax,
ozokerites or hydrogenated oils, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil,
but also of synthetic origin, such as polyethylene waxes resulting
from the polymerization of ethylene, the waxes obtained by the
Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides which
are solid at 45.degree. C., or silicone waxes, such as alkyl,
alkoxy and/or esters of poly(di)methylsiloxane, which are solid at
45.degree. C.
[0094] The temperature values are in particular those of the known
"Dynamic Scanning Calorimetry" method.
[0095] Advantageously, the composition of the invention
additionally comprises at least one fat-soluble polymer or polymer
which is dispersible in the medium exhibiting in particular an
average molecular weight of 500 to 1 000 000 and better still of 5
000 to 15 000. This or these fat-soluble polymer or polymers
contribute in particular to increasing the viscosity and/or to
improving the hold of the film. These fat-soluble polymers
advantageously exhibit a softening temperature at most equal to
30.degree. C.
[0096] Mention may be made, as examples of fat-soluble polymers
which can be used in the invention, of: polyalkylenes, in
particular polybutene, poly(meth)acrylates, alkylcelluloses with a
saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C.sub.1 to C.sub.8
alkyl radical, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, silicone
polymers which are compatible with the fatty phase,
vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers and their mixtures.
[0097] Use is preferably made of vinylpyrrolidone copolymers,
C.sub.2 to C.sub.30 and better still C.sub.3 to C.sub.22 alkene
copolymers, and their combinations. Mention may be made, as
examples of VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, of the
VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, VP/ethyl
methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene,
VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate
copolymer or butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
[0098] Preferably, not only for the properties of hold but also of
feel and of consistency of the film, se is made of the
PVP/hexadecene copolymer having an average molecular weight of 7
000 to 7 500 or the PVP/eicosene [lacuna] having an average
molecular weight of 8 000 to 9 000.
[0099] The fat-soluble or dispersible polymers of the composition
of the invention are advantageously used in an amount of 0.01% to
20% (as active material) of the total weight of the composition and
better still of 1% to 10%, if they are present.
[0100] In addition, the composition according to the invention
advantageously comprises at least one fatty compound which is pasty
at ambient temperature. The term "fatty substance which is pasty"
is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, fatty
substances having a melting point ranging from 20 to 55.degree. C.,
preferably 25 to 45.degree. C., and/or a viscosity at 40.degree. C.
ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.multidot.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably
0.5 to 25 Pa.multidot.s, measured with a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80
equipped with a rotor rotating at 60 Hz. A person skilled in the
art can choose the rotor which makes it possible to measure the
viscosity from the MS-r3 and MS-r4 rotors on the basis of his
general knowledge, so as to be able to carry out the measurement of
the pasty compound tested.
[0101] According to the invention, use is made of one or more fatty
substances which are pasty. These fatty substances are preferably
hydrocarbonaceous compounds, optionally of polymeric type; they can
also be chosen from silicone and/or fluorinated compounds; it can
also be provided in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbonaceous
and/or silicone and/or fluorinated compounds. In the case of a
mixture of various fatty substances which are pasty, use is
preferably made of predominantly hydrocarbonaceous pasty
compounds.
[0102] Mention may be made, among pasty compounds capable of being
used in the composition according to the invention, of lanolins and
lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated
lanolins having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa.multidot.s, preferably
19 to 20.5 Pa.multidot.s, and/or a melting point of 30 to
55.degree. C., and their mixtures. Use may also be made of esters
of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, in particular those having 20 to
65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 to 35.degree. C.
and/or viscosity at 40.degree. C. ranging from 0.1 to 40
Pa.multidot.s), such as triisostearyl or ketyl citrate; arachidyl
propionate; poly(vinyl laurate); cholesterol esters, such as
triglycerides of vegetable origin, such as hydrogenated vegetable
oils, viscous polyesters, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and
their mixtures. Use may be made, as triglycerides of vegetable
origin, of derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, such as
"Thixinr" from Rheox.
[0103] Mention may also be made of silicone fatty substances which
are pasty, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having pendant
chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms
and a melting point of from 20-55.degree. C., such as stearyl
dimethicones, in particular those sold by Dow Corning under the
trade names of DC2503 and DC25514, and their mixtures.
[0104] The fatty substance which is pasty or the fatty substances
which are pasty can be present in a proportion of 0.1 to 60% by
weight with respect to the total weight of the composition,
preferably in a proportion of 1-45% by weight and more preferably
still in a proportion of 2-30% by weight in the composition, if
they are present.
[0105] The composition according to the invention can be
manufactured by known processes generally used in the cosmetic or
dermatological field. It can be manufactured by the process which
consists in heating the polymer to at least its softening
temperature, in adding thereto the amphiphilic compound or
compounds, the coloring materials and additives, and then mixing
the combined mixture until a light and transparent solution is
obtained. The volatile solvent or solvents is/are then added to the
mixture obtained, after lowering the temperature. The homogeneous
mixture obtained can then be cast in an appropriate mold, such as a
lipstick mold, or directly in packaging items (case or dish, in
particular).
[0106] A further subject matter of the invention is a lipstick
composition as a stick comprising at least one continuous liquid
fatty phase comprising at least one volatile solvent, the liquid
fatty phase being structured by at least one nonwaxy polymer which
confers on the composition the appearance of a deformable and
elastic solid with a hardness ranging from 30 to 50 g, in the
absence of wax.
[0107] This lipstick composition as a stick advantageously
comprises an additive chosen from fatty substances which are pasty
at ambient temperature or fat-soluble polymers, and their mixtures,
as defined above. The nonwaxy polymer is preferably a polymer with
a backbone comprising heteroatom-comprising hydrocarbonaceous units
as defined above.
[0108] A further subject matter of the invention is a cosmetic
process for caring for, making up or treating human keratinous
substances and in particular the skin, lips and superficial body
growths comprising the application to the keratinous substances of
the composition, in particular the cosmetic composition, as defined
above.
[0109] Another subject matter of the invention is the use of a
combination of at least one volatile solvent and of at least one
polymer with a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 1 000 to
30 000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbonaceous
repeat units provided with at least one heteroatom and b)
optionally at least one optionally functionalized pendant and/or
end fatty chain having from 12 to 120 carbon atoms which is bonded
to these hydrocarbonaceous units in a cosmetic composition or for
the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, for
decreasing the transfer onto and/or the deposition on a substrate
of traces of a film of said composition, applied to keratinous
substances, brought into contact with said substrate and/or for
increasing the hold of said film. In addition, this film is glossy
and/or comfortable.
[0110] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following
examples. The percentages are given as percentage by mass.
EXAMPLE 1
[0111] Lipstick
1 Phase A Uniclear 100 18% Castor oil 7% Hydrogenated isoparaffin
4% Isononyl isononanoate 4% Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane 8%
Vinylpyrrolidone/1-eico- sene copolymer 2% Phase B Pigments 10%
Hydrogenated isoparaffin 5% Liquid lanolin 5%
Poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) 2% Phase C Isododecane 25%
Decamethyltetrasiloxane 10%
[0112] The pigmentary phase (B) is milled using a triple roll mill
and is introduced into the oily phase A, heated beforehand to
100.degree. C., until the mixture is completely homogenous. The
volatile phase C is subsequently added to the preceding mixture,
which has been brought back to 85.degree. C. The combined mixture
is left in contact for 10 min and then cast in lipstick molds.
[0113] The lipstick obtained deposits a glossy and transfer-free
film. This lipstick was considered by those testing to have a hold
equal to and transfer-free and nonmigrating property or equivalent
and to those of a transfer-free lipstick of the prior art, such as
disclosed in Example 1 of document EP-A-847 752, but to be glossier
than that of the prior art. This known lipstick contained:
2 PDMS (100 cSt) 8% Hydrogenated polyisobutene 18% Arachidyl
propionate 7.5% Polyethylene wax 16.5% Pigments/pearlescent agents
11% Isododecane qsp 100%
EXAMPLE 2
[0114] Lipstick
3 Phase A Uniclear 100 18% Castor oil 8% Hydrogenated isoparaffin
5% Isononyl isononanoate 5% Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane 8%
Vinylpyrrolidone/1-eico- sene copolymer 2% Phase B Pigments 10%
Hydrogenated isoparaffin 5% Liquid lanolin 5%
Poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) 2% Phase C Isododecane 27%
Decamethyltetrasiloxane 5%
[0115] The pigmentary phase (B) is milled using a triple roll mill
and is introduced into the oily phase A, heated beforehand to
100.degree. C., until the mixture is completely homogenous. The
volatile phase C is subsequently added to the preceding mixture,
which has been brought back to 85.degree. C. The combined mixture
is left in contact for 10 min and then cast in lipstick molds.
[0116] The lipstick obtained deposits a glossy and transfer-free
film. This lipstick was considered, by a panel of testers, to have
a hold equal to and transfer-free and non-migration properties
equivalent to those of a transfer-free lipstick of the prior art,
in accordance with that of Example 1 of document EP-A-847 752, but
to be glossier than that of the prior art.
* * * * *