U.S. patent application number 10/142217 was filed with the patent office on 2003-11-13 for rinsable skin conditioning compositions.
This patent application is currently assigned to The Procter & Gamble Company. Invention is credited to Deckner, George Endel, Manchuso, Scott Edward, Monsueir, William Joseph, Rodriguez, Victor Ruben, Sine, Mark Richard.
Application Number | 20030211069 10/142217 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 29399832 |
Filed Date | 2003-11-13 |
United States Patent
Application |
20030211069 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Deckner, George Endel ; et
al. |
November 13, 2003 |
Rinsable skin conditioning compositions
Abstract
Rinsable skin conditioning compositions comprising high internal
phase emulsions and being substantially free of surfactant provide
superior deposition on skin of conditioning agents, skin benefit
agents and/or other conventional cosmetic or skin care ingredients.
Such rinsable skin conditioning compositions have much improve
aesthetics as well.
Inventors: |
Deckner, George Endel;
(Cincinnati, OH) ; Manchuso, Scott Edward;
(Cincinnati, OH) ; Monsueir, William Joseph; (West
Chester, OH) ; Rodriguez, Victor Ruben; (West
Chester, OH) ; Sine, Mark Richard; (Cincinnati,
OH) |
Correspondence
Address: |
THE PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY
INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY DIVISION
WINTON HILL TECHNICAL CENTER - BOX 161
6110 CENTER HILL AVENUE
CINCINNATI
OH
45224
US
|
Assignee: |
The Procter & Gamble
Company
|
Family ID: |
29399832 |
Appl. No.: |
10/142217 |
Filed: |
May 9, 2002 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.16 |
Current CPC
Class: |
Y10S 514/938 20130101;
A61K 8/892 20130101; A61K 2800/33 20130101; Y10S 514/937 20130101;
A61K 8/891 20130101; A61K 8/92 20130101; A61K 8/8152 20130101; A61K
8/046 20130101; A61K 8/42 20130101; A61Q 19/10 20130101; A61Q 19/00
20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/70.16 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/42; A61K
007/06; A61K 007/11 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A rinsable skin conditioning composition comprising an
oil-in-water emulsion wherein the composition has a Deposition
Efficiency (DE) of at least about 2% wherein
DE=[W.sub.after-W.sub.0]/[W.sub.before-W.sub.0].ti- mes.100.
2. A rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 1
wherein the composition has a viscosity from about 1,000 to about
20,000 cP.
3. A rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 1
wherein the composition has a yield stress from about 20 Pa. to
about 200 Pa.
4. A rinsable skin conditioning composition comprising: (a) at
least one high internal phase emulsion comprising (i) an oil; (ii)
a stabilizer; (iii) water; and (b) the balance being conventional
cosmetic and skin care ingredients,
5. A rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 4
wherein the composition is substantially free of surfactant.
6. A rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 4
further comprising a perfume wherein the perfume is present in a
high internal phase emulsion.
7. A rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 4
further comprising a skin benefit agent wherein the skin benefit
agent is added to the oil.
8. A rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 4
wherein the stabilizer selected from the group consisting of
acrylate/C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, cetyl
hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylate/steareth-20 methacrylate
copolymer, acrylate/laureth-25 methacrylate copolymer,
acrylate/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, PEG-150/stearyl
alcohol/SMDI copolymer, acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate,
acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/ceteth-itaconate
copolymer, acrylate/aminoacrylate/C.sub.10-C.su- b.30 alkyl PEG 20
itaconate copolymer, polyquaternium-24, the metal oxides of
titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminium and
cerium, polycarbonates, polyethers, polyethylenes, polypropylenes,
polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, polyamides, polyacrylates,
cyclodextrins and mixtures thereof.
9. A rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 4
wherein the composition comprises: (i) from about 20% to about 90%
by weight of the oil; (ii) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight
of the stabilizer; (iii) from about 9.5% to about 79.5% by weight
of water; and (iv) from about 0% to about 2% by weight of a
perfume.
10. A rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 9
wherein the composition is substantially free of surfactant.
11. A rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 4
wherein the oil is selected from the group consisting of
hydrocarbon oils, waxes, silicones, derivatives of fatty acids,
cholesterol, cholesterol derivatives, diglycerides, triglycerides,
vegetable oils, vegetable oil derivatives, acetoglyceride esters,
alkyl esters, alkenyl esters, lanolin, lanolin derivatives, wax
esters, beeswax derivatives, sterols, phospholipids, and mixtures
thereof.
12. A rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 4
wherein the composition has a Deposition Efficiency (DE) of at
least about 2% wherein
DE=[W.sub.after-W.sub.0]/[W.sub.before-W.sub.0].times.100.
13. An article of commerce comprising a container comprising a
rinse off skin conditioning composition, which provides skin
conditioning and moisturizing benefits to the human skin when
applied in the shower or bath and rinsed and comprises: I. at least
one high internal phase emulsion comprising iv) an oil v) a
stabilizer; vi) water; and II. the balance being conventional
cosmetic and skin care ingredients, wherein said container has
instructions for conditioning and moisturizing the skin comprising
the instructions to wash skin and rinse as normal, smooth product
onto skin while out of the flow of water, rinse briefly, and pat
dry with towel.
14. An article of commerce according to claim 13 wherein the skin
conditioning composition is substantially free of surfactant.
15. An article of commerce according to claim 13 wherein said
instructions comprise illustrations.
16. An article of commerce according to claim 13 wherein the
stabilizer is selected from the group consisting of
acrylate/C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, cetyl
hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylate/steareth-20 methacrylate
copolymer, acrylate/laureth-25 methacrylate copolymer,
acrylate/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, PEG-150/stearyl
alcohol/SMDI copolymer, acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate,
acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/ceteth-20
itaconate copolymer, acrylate/aminoacrylate/C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl
PEG 20 itaconate copolymer, polyquaternium-24, the metal oxides of
titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminium and
cerium, polycarbonates, polyethers, polyethylenes, polypropylenes,
polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, polyamides, polyacrylates,
cyclodextrins and mixtures thereof.
17. An article of commerce according to claim 13 wherein the
composition further comprises a perfume and the perfume is present
in a high internal phase emulsion.
18. An article of commerce according to claim 13 wherein the
composition further comprises a skin benefit agent and the skin
benefit agent is added to the oil.
19. An article of commerce according to claim 13 wherein the
composition has a Deposition Efficiency (DE) of at least about 2%
wherein
DE=[W.sub.after-W.sub.0]/[W.sub.before-W.sub.0].times.100.
20. An article of commerce according to claim 13 wherein the oil is
selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, waxes,
silicones, derivatives of fatty acids, cholesterol, cholesterol
derivatives, diglycerides, triglycerides, vegetable oils, vegetable
oil derivatives, acetoglyceride esters, alkyl esters, alkenyl
esters, lanolin, lanolin derivatives, wax esters, beeswax
derivatives, sterols, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.
21. An article of commerce according to claim 13 wherein the
composition comprises: (i) from about 20% to about 90% by weight of
the oil; (ii) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the
stabilizer; (iii) from about 9.5% to about 79.5% by weight of
water; and (iv) from about 0% to about 2% by weight of a
perfume.
22. A method of conditioning the skin comprising the steps of: (A)
preparing a rinsable skin condition composition comprising at least
one high internal phase emulsion comprising I. (i) an oil; (ii) a
stabilizer; (iii) water; and II. the balance being conventional
cosmetic and skin care ingredients, (B) applying the product of
step (A) to wet human skin; and (C) rinsing the product off of the
skin.
23. A method of conditioning the skin according to claim 22 wherein
the composition is substantially free of surfactant.
24. A method of conditioning the skin according to claim 22 wherein
the stabilizer is selected from the group consisting of
acrylate/C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, cetyl
hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylate/steareth-20 methacrylate
copolymer, acrylate/laureth-25 methacrylate copolymer,
acrylate/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, PEG-150/stearyl
alcohol/SMDI copolymer, acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate,
acrylate/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/ceteth-20
itaconate copolymer, acrylate/aminoacrylate/C.sub.10-C- .sub.30
alkyl PEG 20 itaconate copolymer, polyquaternium-24, the metal
oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese,
aluminium and cerium, polycarbonates, polyethers, polyethylenes,
polypropylenes, polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, polyamides,
polyacrylates, cyclodextrins and mixtures thereof.
25. A method of conditioning the skin according to claim 22 wherein
the composition comprises: (i) from about 20% to about 90% by
weight of the oil; (ii) from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of
the stabilizer; (iii) from about 9.5% to about 79.5% by weight of
water; and (iv) from about 0% to about 2% by weight of a
perfume.
26. A rinsable skin conditioning composition according to claim 4
wherein the high internal phase emulsion is incorporated into a
fatty gel network.
27. A method of using a rinsable skin conditioning composition on
the skin, said method comprising the steps of: (A) obtaining a
personal cleansing composition comprising at least one high
internal phase emulsion comprising I. (i) an oil; (ii) a
stabilizer; (iii) water; and II. the balance being conventional
cosmetic and skin care ingredients, wherein the composition is
substantially free of surfactant; and (B) providing instructions
with the rinsable skin conditioning composition to perform the
following usage steps; a) wash and rinse skin as normal, b) smooth
product onto skin while out of the water, c) rinse briefly, and d)
pat dry.
Description
FIELD OF THBE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to rinsable, skin conditioning
compositions. More particularly it relates to skin conditioning
compositions comprising high internal phase emulsions substantially
free of surfactant.
BACKGROUND OF THBE INVENTION
[0002] Skin conditioning compositions that provide moisturizing
benefits are known. Many of these compositions are aqueous systems
comprising an emulsified conditioning oil or other similar material
stabilized with surfactant. Typically, skin moisturizing
compositions are in the form of lotions meant to be applied to the
skin after bathing and throughout the day if reapplication is
necessary.
[0003] Skin is made up of several layers of cells, which coat and
protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the
skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred
to as the stratum corneum, is known to be composed of 25 nm protein
bundles surrounded by 8 nm thick layers. Anionic surfactants and
organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane
and, by delipidization (i.e. removal of the lipids from the stratum
corneum), destroy its integrity. This destruction of the skin
surface topography leads to a rough feel and may eventually permit
the surfactant or solvent to interact with the keratin, creating
irritation.
[0004] It is now recognized that maintaining the proper water
gradient across the stratum corneum is important to its
functionality. Most of this water, which is sometimes considered to
be the stratum corneum's plasticizer, comes from inside the body.
If the humidity is too low, such as in a cold climate, insufficient
water remains in the outer layers of the stratum corneum to
properly plasticize the tissue, and the skin begins to scale and
becomes itchy. Skin permeability is also decreased somewhat when
there is inadequate water across the stratum corneum. On the other
hand, exposure to high water concentration for long periods of time
on the outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to ultimately
sorb three to five times its own weight of bound water. This swells
and puckers the skin and results in approximately a two to three
fold increase in the permeability of the skin to water and
moisturizer molecules. In the shower or bath, as skin becomes
hydrated, this is recognized as an ideal time to deliver
moisturizer to the skin since absorption of the moisturizer will be
high.
[0005] It is further desirable to deliver the above skin
conditioning benefits via an in-the-shower or in-the-bath lotion.
Unfortunately, in the shower/bath, moisturizers are often readily
rinsed from the skin. This is particularly true when surfactant is
present.
[0006] Thus, a need exists for compositions, which will effectively
deposit moisturizers and/or other skin benefit agents in the shower
and/or bath and thereby assist the stratum corneum in maintaining
its barrier and water-retention functions at optimum performance in
spite of deleterious interactions which the skin may encounter in
washing, work, and recreation.
[0007] Desirable properties of such skin care compositions are to
provide good skin feel, water retention, moisturization,
absorption, and rub-in characteristics. One way of delivering high
moisturization to the skin is to incorporate polyhydric
alcohol-like humectant materials such as glycerine into a
composition. Skin compositions with high levels of polyhydric
alcohols and therefore high levels of moisturization when left-on
the skin, however, are readily rinsed away in the shower and/or
bath by the consumer. An alternative way of delivering desirable
benefits to the skin is to incorporate oil-soluble skin care
ingredients such as petrolatum into skin care compositions.
Compositions, which incorporate the oil as an oil-in-water
emulsion, must stabilize the emulsion which is generally done with
surfactant (typically nonionic surfactant for lotions and anionic
or amphoteric surfactant for lathering products). Again, such
compositions when stabilized with surfactant, deposit poorly on the
skin due to emulsification of the oil by the surfactant.
[0008] Another method previously used to deposit oil more
effectively is to deliver the oil via a water-in-oil emulsion. Such
compositions however, have big trade-offs in terms of poor (greasy)
aesthetics, poor spreading on skin and creation of unsafe, slippery
shower and/or tub floors.
[0009] It is a tremendous challenge to deposit effective amounts of
skin conditioning ingredients on skin via a rinsable skin
conditioning composition that also has excellent consumer
acceptance. While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed
that the oil soluble conditioning agents are easily emulsified by
the surfactant present in most body wash and body lotion
compositions. Therefore, the conditioning agents are rinsed away
during the personal cleansing process. Although attempts have been
made to formulate two-in-on body wash products that not only
cleanse the skin, but additionally deliver skin moisturization,
they don't generally deposit sufficient amount of skin conditioning
ingredients to deliver the same level of skin moisturization as a
leave-on lotion. This inadequate conditioning leaves consumers with
an unmet need.
[0010] Accordingly, the need remains for a rinsable,
skin-conditioning composition that can provide improved
conditioning and other skin care benefits to human skin.
Additionally, there remains a need for a rinsable,
skin-conditioning composition which exhibits pleasing tactile
properties and increased deposition of skin conditioning and/or
skin care agents. The need also remains for in-shower and/or bath
lotion compositions which show low levels of stickiness or
tackiness whilst providing high levels of moisturization, as well
as providing excellent skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness
benefits.
[0011] It has now been unexpectedly found that compositions
comprising high internal phase oil-in-water emulsions show
excellent oil deposition, excellent moisturization benefits, with
low levels of stickiness or tack and superior product stability.
These compositions can be formulated at surprisingly high
viscosities while maintaining excellent spreadability on wet skin.
The compositions also show good skin feel, skin softness and skin
smoothness benefits. Other benefits in using high internal phase
emulsions are that they are very easy to manufacture, they give the
formulated great control over oil droplet size, they are low
irritating and they allow for emulsification of previously
incompatible materials in the same product. These and other
benefits will be discussed in greater detail below.
[0012] The present invention provides rinsable, skin-conditioning
compositions, which may further comprise skin benefit agents. These
compositions provide improved aesthetics and skin feel during
and/or after application, and are especially useful in providing
improved deposition or effectiveness of skin conditioning agents to
the desired area of the skin. The benefits of the compositions of
the present invention are further improved
[0013] The present invention further provides a method of
conditioning the skin using the described compositions.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0014] The present invention meets the aforementioned needs by
providing a rinsable skin conditioning composition comprising a an
oil-in-water emulsion wherein the composition has a Deposition
Efficiency (DE) of at least about 2% wherein
DE=[W.sub.after-W.sub.0]/[W.sub.before-W.sub.0].ti- mes.100. The
present invention further relates to a rinsable skin conditioning
composition comprising (a) at least one high internal phase
emulsion comprising (i) an oil; (ii) a stabilizer; (iii) water; and
(b) the balance being conventional cosmetic and skin care
ingredients.
[0015] The present invention further relates to a rinsable skin
conditioning composition wherein the composition comprises (i) from
about 20% to about 90% by weight of the oil; (ii) from about 0.1%
to about 10% by weight of the stabilizer; (iii) from about 9.5% to
about 79.5% by weight of water; and (iv) from about 0% to about 2%
by weight of a perfume The present invention further relates to an
article of commerce comprising a container comprising a rinse off
skin conditioning composition, which provides skin conditioning
and/or moisturizing benefits to the human skin when applied in the
shower and/or bath and rinsed and comprises I. at least one high
internal phase emulsion comprising an oil, a stabilizer, water and
II. the balance being conventional cosmetic and skin care
ingredients, wherein the composition is substantially free of
surfactant and wherein said container has instructions for
conditioning and moisturizing the skin comprising the instructions
to wash skin and rinse as normal, smooth product onto skin while
out of the flow of water, rinse briefly, and pat dry with
towel.
[0016] The present invention further relates to a method of
conditioning the skin comprising the steps of (A) preparing a
rinsable skin condition composition comprising at least one high
internal phase emulsion comprising I. (i) an oil; (ii) a
stabilizer; (iii) water; and II. the balance being conventional
cosmetic and skin care ingredients, wherein the composition is
substantially free of surfactant; (B) applying the product of step
(A) to wet human skin; and (C) rinsing the product off of the
skin.
[0017] All documents cited are, in relevant part, incorporated
herein by reference; the citation of any document is not to be
construed as an admission that it is prior art with respect to the
present invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0018] The specific embodiments of the present invention will be
described in detail below.
[0019] The term "ambient conditions" as used herein, unless
otherwise specified, refers to surrounding conditions at one (1)
atmosphere of pressure, 50% relative humidity, and 25.degree.
C.
[0020] The term "skin conditioning composition" as used herein,
unless otherwise specified, refers to the compositions of the
present invention, wherein the compositions are intended for
topical application to the skin.
[0021] The term "rinsable" as used herein, unless otherwise
specified, refers to compositions that can be both rinsed off the
skin after application or left on depending upon the desire of the
user.
[0022] All percentages, parts and ratios as used herein are by
weight of the total composition, unless otherwise specified. All
such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the
active level and, therefore, do not include solvents or by-products
that may be included in commercially available materials, unless
otherwise specified.
[0023] The skin conditioning compositions and methods of the
present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially
of, the essential elements and limitations of the invention
described herein, as well as any additional or optional
ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or
otherwise useful in skin conditioning compositions intended for
topical application to the hair or skin.
Product Form
[0024] The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present
invention are liquid or semi-liquid, cream or mousse compositions
intended for topical application to the skin. The product forms
contemplated for purposes of defining the compositions and methods
of the present invention are typically rinsable formulations, by
which is meant the product is applied topically to the skin and
then subsequently (i.e., within minutes) rinsed away with water, or
otherwise wiped off using a substrate or other suitable removal
means. However, it is contemplated that the subject compositions
may be used as leave-on lotions as well without deviating from the
spirit of the invention.
[0025] All elements of the present invention will be described in
detail hereafter.
[0026] High Internal Phase Emulsion
[0027] The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present
invention comprise at least one high internal phase (HIP) emulsion
comprising an oil, a stabilizer, and water. The compositions are
substantially free of surfactant including anionic, amphoteric,
zwitterionic, cationic or nonionic surfactant. By "substantially
free" is meant that the compositions comprise less than about 3%,
preferably less than about 1%, more preferably less than about
0.5%, even more preferably less than about 0.25%, and most
preferably less than about 0.1% surfactant. Optionally, the
compositions may contain other skin benefit agents and conventional
cosmetic or skin care ingredients.
[0028] The main difference between HIP emulsions and conventional
emulsions is that HIP emulsions use high oil-packing to build
viscosity.
[0029] Oils
[0030] The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present
invention typically comprise from about 20% to about 90% of oil,
more preferably 25 to 70% oil, even more preferably from 25 to 60%
oil and most preferably from 30% to 40%. Oils suitable for use
herein include any natural and synthetic materials with an overall
solubility parameter less than about 12.5 (cal/cm.sup.3).sup.0.5,
preferably less than about 11.5 (cal/cm.sup.3).sup.0.5. Solubility
parameters for the oils described herein are determined by methods
well known in the chemical arts for establishing the relative polar
character of a material. A description of solubility parameters and
means for determining them are described by C. D. Vaughn,
"Solubility Effects in Product, Package, Penetration and
Preservation" 103 Cosmetics and Toiletries 47-69, October 1988; and
C. D. Vaughn, "Using Solubility Parameters in Cosmetics
Formulation", 36 J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists 319-333,
September/October, 1988.
[0031] By "overall solubility parameter" is meant that it is
possible to use oils with higher solubility parameters than 12.5
(cal/cm.sup.3).sup.0.5 if they are blended with other oils to
reduce the overall solubility parameter of the oil mixture to less
than about 12.5 (cal/cm.sup.3).sup.0.5. For example, a small
portion of diethylene glycol (sol par=13.61) could be blended with
lanolin oil (sol par=7.3) and a cosolublizing agent to create a
mixture that has a solubility parameter of less than 12.5
(cal/cm.sup.3).sup.0.5.
[0032] These oils include but are not limited to hydrocarbon oils
and waxes, silicones, fatty acid derivatives, cholesterol,
cholesterol derivatives, diglycerides, triglycerides, vegetable
oils, vegetable oil derivatives, acetoglyceride esters, alkyl
esters, alkenyl esters, lanolin and its derivatives, wax esters,
beeswax derivatives, sterols and phospholipids, and combinations
thereof.
[0033] Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbon oils and waxes suitable
for use herein include petrolatum, mineral oil, micro-crystalline
waxes, polyalkenes, paraffins, cerasin, ozokerite, polyethylene,
perhydrosqualene, poly alpha olefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes
and combinations thereof.
[0034] Non-limiting examples of silicone oils suitable for use
herein include dimethicone copolyol, dimethylpolysiloxane,
diethylpolysiloxane, mixed C1-C30 alkyl polysiloxanes, phenyl
dimethicone, dimethiconol, and combinations thereof. Preferred are
non-volatile silicones selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol,
mixed C1-C30 alkyl polysiloxane, and combinations thereof.
Nonlimiting examples of silicone oils useful herein are described
in U.S. Pat. No. 5,011,681 (Ciotti et al.).
[0035] Non-limiting examples of diglycerides and triglycerides
suitable for use herein include castor oil, soy bean oil,
derivatized soybean oils such as maleated soy bean oil, safflower
oil, cotton seed oil, corn oil, walnut oil, peanut oil, olive oil,
cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil and sesame oil,
vegetable oils, sunflower seed oil, and vegetable oil derivatives;
coconut oil and derivatized coconut oil, cottonseed oil and
derivatized cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, and
combinations thereof. In addition any of the above oils that have
been partially or fully hydrogenated are also suitable.
[0036] Non-limiting examples of acetoglyceride esters suitable for
use herein include acetylated monoglycerides.
[0037] Non-limiting examples of alkyl esters suitable for use
herein include isopropyl esters of fatty acids and long chain
esters of long chain fatty acids, e.g. SEFA (sucrose esters of
fatty acids). Lauryl pyrolidone carboxylic acid, pentaerthritol
esters, aromatic mono, di or triesters, cetyl ricinoleate,
non-limiting examples of which incloude isopropyl palmitate,
isopropyl myristate, cetyl riconoleate and stearyl riconoleate.
Other examples are: hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, myristyl
myristate, isohexyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate,
hexadecyl stearate, decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate,
diisopropyl adipate, diisohexyl adipate, dihexyldecyl adipate,
diisopropyl sebacate, acyl isononanoate lauryl lactate, myristyl
lactate, cetyl lactate, and combinations thereof.
[0038] Non-limiting examples of alkenyl esters suitable for use
herein include oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, and
combinations thereof.
[0039] Non-limiting examples of lanolin and lanolin derivatives
suitable for use herein include lanolin, lanolin oil, lanolin wax,
lanolin alcohols, lanolin fatty acids, isopropyl lanolate,
acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohols, lanolin alcohol
linoleate, lanolin alcohol riconoleate, hydroxylated lanolin,
hydrogenated lanolin and combinations thereof.
[0040] Still other suitable oils include milk triglycerides (e.g.,
hydroxylated milk glyceride) and polyol fatty acid polyesters.
[0041] Still other suitable oils include wax esters, non-limiting
examples of which include beeswax and beeswax derivatives,
spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate, and combinations
thereof. Also useful are vegetable waxes such as carnauba and
candelilla waxes; sterols such as cholesterol, cholesterol fatty
acid esters; and phospholipids such as lecithin and derivatives,
sphingo lipids, ceramides, glycosphingo lipids, and combinations
thereof.
[0042] Stabilizers
[0043] The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present
invention typically comprise from about 0.1% to about 10% of a
stabilizer, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, and more
preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%. Preferred stabilizers are
any stabilizers that reduce the surface tension of water to not
less 60 mN/m at 25.degree. C. as measured by standard surface
tension apparati and methods known to those of ordinary skill in
the art, for example ASTM D1331-89 (2001) Method A, "Surface
Tension". Preferred stabilizers exhibit a minimum surface tension
in water of 60 mN/m or higher. Suitable stabilizers promote
stability of the oil in water emulsion by inhibiting coalescence of
the oil droplets, and/or inhibiting phase separation of the oil and
water phases.
[0044] Some suitable stabilizers are Pemulen TR-1 (Acrylates/C10-30
Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer-Noveon), Pemulen TR-2 (Acrylates/C10-30
Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer-Noveon), ETD 2020 (Acrylates/C10-30
Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer-Noveon), Carbopol 1382
(Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer-Noveon), Natrosol CS
Plus 330, 430, Polysurf 67 (Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose-Hercules),
Aculyn 22 (Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate
Copolymer-Rohm&Haas) Aculyn 25 (Acrylates/Laureth-25
Methacrylate copolymer-Rohm&Haas), Aculyn 28
(Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate copolymer-Rohm&Haas),
Aculyn 46 (Peg-150/Stearyl Alcohol/SMDI copolymer-Rohm&Haas)
Stabylen 30 (Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate-3V), Structure 2001
(Acrylates/Steareth-20 Itaconate copolymer-National Starch),
Structure 3001 (Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate copolymer-National
Starch), Structure Plus (Acrylates/Aminoacrylates/C10-- 30 Alkyl
Peg 20 Itaconate copolymer-National Starch, Quatrisoft LM-200
(Polyquaternium-24), the metal oxides of titanium, zinc, iron,
zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminium and cerium,
polycarbonates, polyethers, polyethylenes, polypropylenes,
polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, polyamides, polyacrylates,
cyclodextrins and mixtures thereof.
[0045] Cyclodextrins are solubilized, water-soluble, uncomplexed
cyclodextrins. As used herein, the term "cyclodextrin" includes any
of the known cyclodextrins such as unsubstituted cyclodextrins
containing from six to twelve glucose units, especially,
alpha-cyclodextrin, beta-cyclodextrin, gamma-cyclodextrin and/or
their derivatives and/or mixtures thereof.
[0046] Examples of preferred water-soluble cyclodextrin derivatives
suitable for use herein are hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin,
methylated alpha-cyclodextrin, methylated beta-cyclodextrin,
hydroxyethyl beta-cyclodextrin, and hydroxypropyl
beta-cyclodextrin.
[0047] It is also preferable to use a mixture of cyclodextrins.
Such mixtures can complex with a wider range of perfume molecules
having a wider range of molecular sizes. Preferably at least a
portion of the cyclodextrins is alpha-cyclodextrin and its
derivatives thereof, gamma-cyclodextrin and its derivatives
thereof, and/or derivatised beta-cyclodextrin, and mixtures
thereof.
[0048] Cyclodextrins particularly preferred for use herein are
alpha cyclodextron, beta cyclodextron, hydroxypropyl alpha
cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl beta cyclodextrin, and a mixture
thereof.
[0049] Water
[0050] The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present
invention typically comprise from about 9.5% to about 79.5% of
water.
[0051] Perfume Oils
[0052] Preferred compositions of the present invention may
optionally contain perfume. Suitable perfumes are those known to
those skilled in the cosmetic and fragrance arts. When present the
perfumes can be added to compositions according to the present
invention via conventional methods. When added via conventional
methods the perfume ingredients can be added at amounts from about
0% to about 2% relative to the entire composition.
[0053] It is especially desirable to add perfumes via a HIP
emulsion. Without being bound by theory it is believed that
perfumes incorporated via HIP emulsions deposit onto the skin at
higher rates. Therefore, these perfumes may provide the present
compositions with longer lasting scents and thus provide a more
pleasing experience for the consumer. The perfume containing HIP
emulsion is prepared as described above and stabilized with the
previously listed stabilizers. When incorporated via a separate HIP
emulsion the HIP emulsion is formulated with from about 20% to
about 70% of perfume oil by weight of the HIP emulsion. It is often
advantageous to include cyclodextrin in the perfume high internal
phase emulsion as it can provide residual, long lasting fragrance
on skin. The overall concentration of the perfume in the total
composition is from 0% to about 2% regardless of the method for
incorporation.
[0054] Gel Networks
[0055] The skin conditioning composition of the present invention
may comprise a gel network. The gel network includes a cationic
surfactant, a solid fatty compound and water. The gel network is
typically characterized by a viscosity of from about 5,000 cps to
about 40,000 cps, preferably from about 10,000 cps to about 30,000
cps, and more preferably from about 12,000 cps to about 28,000 cps,
as measured at 250.degree. C., by means of a Brookfield Viscometer
at shear rate of 1.0 rpm. Without intending to be limited by
theory, it is believed that the gel network significantly improves
deposition of the conditioning agents and/or other skin benefit
agents onto skin.
[0056] In a highly preferred embodiment, the gel network is a
lamellar gel network, which provides improved skin feel,
spreadability of the compositions, and other substantial benefits.
Generally, the preferred cationic surfactants in the lamellar gel
network contain one or two long chain (e.g., C12-30) alkyl groups,
and a tertiary or quaternary amine group. Tertiary amine groups
having one or two C16-22 alkyl chains are preferred.
[0057] Nonlimiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the
present invention include materials having the following CTFA
designations: quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18,
quaternium-18 methosulfate, quaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.
Among the cationic surfactants preferred are those containing in
the molecule at least one alkyl chain having at least 16
carbons.
[0058] Nonlimiting examples of such preferred cationic surfactants
include: dioleyolethyl hydroxyethymonium methoulfate,
behenyltrimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with
trade name INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo
Kasei (Osaka, Japan); cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available,
for example, with tradename CA-2350 from Nikko Chemical (Tokyo,
Japan), hydrogenated tallowalkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride,
dialkyl (14-18) dirnethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl
dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl
dirnethylammonium chloride, distearyl dirnethyl ammonium chloride,
dicetyl dirnethylammonium chloride, di(behenyl/arachidyl) dimethyl
ammonium chloride, dibehenyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl
dirnethyl benzyl ammoniumchloride, stearyl propyleneglycol
phosphate dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearoyl amidopropyl dimethyl
benzyl ammonium chloride, stearoyl arnidopropyldimethyl
(myristylacetate) ammonium chloride, and N-(stearoyl colarnino
formylmethyl) pyridinium chloride.
[0059] Also preferred as cationic surfactants are hydrophilically
substituted cationic surfactants in which at least one of the
substituents contain one or more aromatic, ether, ester, amido, or
amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the
radical chain, wherein at least one of the RI"-R' 04 radicals
contain one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy
(preferably C,_C3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably C1_C3
polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkylester, and
combinations thereof. Preferably, the hydrophilically substituted
cationic surfactant contains from 2 to about 10 nonionic hydrophile
moieties located within the above stated ranges. Nonlimiting
examples of hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful
in the present invention include the materials having the following
CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27,
quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43, quaternium-52,
quaternium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, quaternium-61,
quaternium-62, quaternium-70, quaternium-71, quaternium-72,
quaternium-75, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-77,
quaternium-78, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79
hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein,
quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy
protein, and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein, quaternium-80,
quaternium-81, quaternium-82, quaternium-83, quaternium-84, and
mixtures thereof.
[0060] Highly preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic
surfactants include dialkylarnido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt,
dialkylamidoethyl dimonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyl
hydroxyethylamonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyidimonium salt, and
mixtures thereof; for example, commercially available under the
following tradenames; VARISOFT 110, VARISOFT 222, VARIQUAT K1215
and VARIQUAT 638 from Witco Chemicals (Greenwich, Conn., USA),
MACKPIRO KLP, MACKPIRO WLK MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPIRO NLW,
MACKPIRO WWP, MACKPIRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP from McIntyre, ETHOQUAD
18/25, ETHOQUAD 0/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25,ETHOQUAD S/25, and
ETHODUOQUAD from Akzo, DEHYQUAT SP from Henkel (Germany), and ATLAS
G265 from ICI Americas (Wilmington, Del., io USA).
[0061] Salts of primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are
also suitable cationic surfactants. The alkyl groups of such amines
preferably have from about to about 22 carbon atoms, and can be
substituted or unsubstituted.
[0062] Particularly useful are amido substituted tertiary fatty
amines. Such amines, as useful herein, include
stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine,
stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine,
palmitamidopropyidimethylamine, paimitamidopropyldiethylamine,
palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine,
behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine,
behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine,
arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine,
arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and
diethylaminoethylstearamide.
[0063] Also useful are dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine,
soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine,
N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene
oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and
arachidylbehenylamine. These amines are typically used in
combination with an acid to provide the cationic species. The
preferred acid useful herein includes L-glutamic acid, lactic acid,
hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric
acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic hydrochloride,
L-aspartic acid, and mixtures thereof; more preferably L-glutamic
acid, lactic acid, citric acid.
[0064] The fatty alcohol compound and cationic surfactant are
included in the skin conditioning composition at a level by weight
of the total composition from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably
from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to
about 10%.
[0065] The fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about
14 to about 22 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22
carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and can be
straight or branched chain alcohols.
[0066] Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include, cetyl
alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures
thereof.
[0067] The fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10
to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22
carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon
atoms. These fatty acids are saturated and can be straight or
branched chain acids. Also included are diacids, triacids, and
other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein.
[0068] Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids.
Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic
acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures
thereof.
[0069] Solid fatty compounds of a single compound of high purity
are preferred.
[0070] Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the
group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol
are highly preferred. By "pure" herein, what is meant is that the
compound has a purity of at least about 90%, preferably at least
about 95%. These single compounds of high purity may provide good
rinsability from the skin when the consumer rinses off the
composition.
[0071] Commercially available solid fatty compounds useful herein
include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having
trade names KONOL series available from Shin-nihon Rika (Osaka,
Japan), and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure
behenyl alcohol having trade name 1-DOCOSANOL available from Wako
Chemical (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids having trade names
NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago, Ill., USA), HYSTRENE
available from Witco Corp. (Dublin, Ohio, USA), and DERMA available
from Vevy (Genova, Italy).
[0072] While poly fatty alcohols may form the gel network, mono
fatty alcohols are preferred. Either the cationic surfactant,
and/or the solid fatty compound may be first mixed with, suspended,
and/or dissolved in water when forming a gel network.
[0073] Deposition Efficiency:
[0074] Compositions of the present invention provide deposition of
the skin conditioning or skin benefit agents onto skin with a
Deposition Efficiency (DE) of at least about 2%, preferably from
about 3% to about 40%, more preferably from about 4% to about 30%,
and most preferably from about 4% to about 20%, by weight of the
total composition, wherein
DE=[W.sub.after-W.sub.0]/[W.sub.before-W.sub.0].times.100.
Deposition Efficiency is determined using the method described
below.
[0075] The test method described below is used to determine the
level of deposition of skin conditioning and other optional skin
benefit agents.
[0076] Clear 3 mil thick polyethylene sheets are cut to 21.5
cm.times.32.0 cm. Both sides of the sheets are sprayed with
ethanol, wiped with a paper towel and allowed to hang dry for a few
hours. The initial weight of each sheet is measured using a 4-digit
analytical balance and recorded as W.sub.0.
[0077] A piece of thick, grooved vinyl shelf covering (i.e. "Groovy
Easy Liner" for shelves) is clipped to a 10.times.13 inch plastic
clipboard. The grooves are about 5 mm wide, spaced about 5 mm
apart, and are about 1.6 mm thick with 0.55 mm thick valleys. The
grooves run across the short direction of the clipboard, and serve
to provide underlying texture.
[0078] One polyethylene sheet is attached to the clipboard using a
clip, placing the sheet over the underlying grooved vinyl covering.
1 gram of rinsable skin conditioning composition is applied to the
sheet and spread by hand on the sheet for 30 seconds to all edges
of the sheet. The sheet is again weighed. This weight, prior to
rinsing is recorded as W.sub.before.
[0079] The sheet is rinsed for 30 seconds in warm water
(100-105.degree. F.), letting the water stream hit the top edge of
the sheet and cascade down the length of the sheet. Water flow rate
is between 210 and 230 ml/10 seconds. The sheet is hung to dry from
one corner using a clothespin and dried overnight (e.g. at
120.degree. F. at 5% relative humidity for greater than 8 hours).
The sheet is weighed again the next day. This weight after rinsing
is recorded as W.sub.after.
[0080] The deposition efficiency is calculated as: Deposition
Efficiency=[W.sub.after-W.sub.0]/[W.sub.before-W.sub.0].times.100.
[0081] Rheology
[0082] Compositions according to the present invention preferably
have a yield stress of from about 20 to about 200 Pa., more
preferably from about 30 to about 100 Pa., even more preferably
from about 50 to about 90 Pa. Preferred compositions also have
viscosity in the range of from about 1,000 to about 20,000 cP,
preferably from about 1,500 to about 10,000 cP, even more
preferably from about 2,000 to about 7,000 cP. Yield stress and
viscosity can be measured using methods familiar to those with
ordinary skill in the art as described below.
[0083] Yield Stress:
[0084] A rheometer with a 4 cm diameter parallel plate geometry at
a gap setting of 1 mm, for example a TA Instruments AR 2000
controlled stress rheometer manufactured by TA Instruments-Waters
LLC, New Castle, Del., 19720, is used. A composition is loaded onto
the rheometer base plate at 25.degree. C., and the upper plate is
positioned at a distance 1 mm from the base plate, containing the
composition between the plates. Without disturbing the composition,
excess is removed to the edge of the plate with a spatula. Using a
controller and a computer (provided with rheometer), the rheometer
is programmed to increase stress on the sample from a starting
value of 0.1 Pa to a final value of 1,000 Pa in a series of 50
steps per decade of stress at a logarithmic rate of increase, over
a total measurement time of 3 minutes. Data are collected in an
electronic file for analysis. First, data are plotted as the log of
stress/Pa vs. log of strain, and the yield stress is determined.
The yield stress, or stress at which product flow begins, is the
point at which the data exhibit a transition from non-flow into
flow, evident as a kink in the curve of the log stress vs. log
strain curve. Data in the non-flow region are linearized by
regression or simply drawing a straight line through the non-flow
data; and data in the flow region are linearized by regression or
drawing a similar straight line, and the intersection of the linear
regressions or the straight lines is determined to be the yield
stress. For preferred products, a pronounced yield stress is
demonstrated as a sharp bend in the data curves at the yield
stress, as the composition rapidly shifts from non-flow to flow
with increasing stress. For compositions that do not exhibit a
yield stress by this method, the yield stress is taken to be a low
value, i.e., less than 1 Pa or even 0 Pa for fluids such as
Newtonian fluids.
[0085] Viscosity:
[0086] To determine the viscosity of the composition, the same data
obtained above are plotted as viscosity (centipoises, or cP) vs.
shear rate (inverse seconds, or 1/sec). The viscosity at a shear
rate of 100 1/seconds is easily determined by observation of the
data, and can be interpolated from the viscosity-shear rate data if
needed. If a shear rate of 100 1/sec is not reached even at the
highest stress in this test, the composition is re-tested with a
higher stress range using the same measurement time per stress
decade (1 minute per stress decade) until a sufficiently high shear
rate is obtained.
[0087] Optional Ingredients
[0088] The skin conditioning compositions of the present invention
may further comprise other optional ingredients that may modify the
physical, chemical, cosmetic or aesthetic characteristics of the
compositions or serve as additional "active" components when
deposited on the skin. The compositions may also further comprise
optional inert ingredients. Many such optional ingredients are
known for use in personal care compositions, and may also be used
in the skin conditioning compositions herein, provided that such
optional materials are compatible with the essential materials
described herein, or do not otherwise unduly impair product
performance.
[0089] The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present
invention may optionally comprise from about 0.1% to about 0.75% of
a conventional preservative. Non-limiting examples of preservatives
which may be used in the compositions of the present invention are
benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, DMDM hydantoin,
methylchloroisothiaoline, methylisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl
urea phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, and benzoic acid. EDTA and
salts thereof are often used to further enhance preservation.
[0090] Such optional ingredients are most typically those materials
approved for use in cosmetics and that are described in reference
books such as the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second
Edition, The Cosmetic, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association, Inc.
1988, 1992. These optional materials can be used in any aspect of
the compositions of the present invention.
[0091] Other optional ingredients include silicone elastomer
powders and fluids to provide any of a variety of product benefits,
including improved product stability, application cosmetics,
emolliency, conditioning, and so forth. The concentration of the
silicone elastomers in the composition preferably ranges from about
0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, by
weight of the composition. In this context, the weight percentages
are based upon the weight of the silicone elastomers material
itself, excluding any silicone-containing fluid that typically
accompanies such silicone elastomers materials in the formulation
process. The silicone elastomers suitable for optional use herein
include emulsifying and non-emulsifying silicone elastomers,
non-limiting examples of which are described in U.S. Ser. No.
09/613,266 (assigned to The Procter & Gamble Company).
[0092] Skin Benefit Agents
[0093] The skin conditioning compositions of the present invention
may optionally further comprise a skin benefit agent suitable for
use on the skin, and which is otherwise compatible with the other
selected ingredients in the composition. The skin benefit agent can
be blended with the oils previously described and included as part
of the main high internal phase emulsion. In this case the oil
functions as a carrier for the skin benefit agent. The skin benefit
agent may also be included as part of a separate high internal
phase emulsion. The skin benefit agent may also be included as an
add-on ingredient wherein it is not part of any of the high
internal phase emulsion premixes.
[0094] Non-limiting examples of skin benefit agents suitable for
use herein are described in The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook,
Second Edition (1992), which includes a wide variety of cosmetic
and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care
industry, and which are suitable for use in the compositions of the
present invention. Non-limiting examples of such skin benefit
agents include abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic components such as
fragrances, pigments, colorings/colorants, essential oils, skin
sensates, astringents, etc. (e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor,
eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate),
anti-acne agents, anti-caking agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g.,
iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, colorants, cosmetic
astringents, cosmetic biocides, drug astringents, external
analgesics, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, skin bleaching and
lightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid,
magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine),
skin-conditioning and/or moisturizing agents, i.e. glycerine, skin
soothing and/or healing agents (e.g., panthenol and derivatives
(e.g., ethyl panthenol), aloe vera, pantothenic acid and its
derivatives, allantoin, bisabolol, and dipotassium
glycyrrhizinate), retinoids, (e.g. retinol palmitate), tocopheryl
nicotinate, skin treating agents, vitamins and derivatives thereof.
In any embodiment of the present invention, however, the actives
useful herein can be categorized by the benefit they provide or by
their postulated mode of action. However, it is to be understood
that the actives useful herein can in some instances provide more
than one benefit or operate via more than one mode of action.
Therefore, classifications herein are made for the sake of
convenience and are not intended to limit the active to that
particular application or applications listed. The skin benefit
agents are furthered described hereinafter in details.
[0095] A) Desquamation Actives
[0096] The skin benefit agent for use herein can include
desquamation actives, preferred concentrations of which range from
about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about
5%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 4%, by weight of
the composition for non-surfactant containing actives and from
about 0.1% to about 3%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about
3%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3% for surfactant
containing actives. Desquamation actives enhance the skin
appearance benefits of the present invention. For example, the
desquamation actives tend to improve the texture of the skin (e.g.,
smoothness). One desquamation system that is suitable for use
herein contains sulfhydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants
and is described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,681,852, to Bissett.
[0097] Another desquamation system that is suitable for use herein
contains salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants and is
described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,652,228 to Bissett.
[0098] B) Anti-Acne Actives
[0099] The skin benefit agent for use herein can also include
anti-acne actives, preferred concentrations of which range from
about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 1% to about
20%, by weight of the composition. Non-limiting examples of
anti-acne actives suitable for use herein include resorcinol,
sulfur, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin, zinc, and
other similar materials.
[0100] Other non-limiting examples of suitable anti-acne actives
for use herein are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,607,980, issued to
McAtee et al, which description is incorporated herein by
reference.
[0101] C) Anti-Wrinkle Actives/Anti-Atrophy Actives
[0102] The skin benefit agent for use herein can also include
anti-wrinkle actives or anti-atrophy actives, including
sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and
salts, particularly the N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example
of which is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols, e.g. ethane thiol; hydroxy
acids (e.g., alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic
acid or beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and salicylic
acid derivatives such as the octanoyl derivative), phytic acid,
lipoic acid; lysophosphatidic acid, and skin peel agents (e.g.,
phenol and the like). Also suitable is niacinamide.
[0103] Hydroxy acids as skin benefit agents herein include
salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives, preferred
concentrations of which range from about 0.01% to about 50%, more
preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, even more preferably from
about 0.5% to about 2%, by weight of the composition.
[0104] Other non-limiting examples of suitable anti-wrinkle actives
for use herein are described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,217,888, issued to
Oblong et al.
[0105] D) Anti-Oxidants/Radical Scavengers
[0106] The skin benefit agent for use herein can also include
anti-oxidants or radical scavengers, preferred concentrations of
which range from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from
about 1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition.
[0107] Non-limiting examples of anti-oxidants or radical scavengers
for use herein include ascorbic acid and its salts, ascorbyl esters
of fatty acids, ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., magnesium ascorbyl
phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl sorbate),
tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol,
butylated hydroxy benzoic acids and their salts,
6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid
(commercially available under the tradename Trolox.RTM.), gallic
acid and its alkyl esters, especially propyl gallate, uric acid and
its salts and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and its salts, lipoic acid,
amines (e.g., N,N-diethylhydroxylamine, amino-guanidine),
sulfhydryl compounds (e.g., glutathione), dihydroxy fumaric acid
and its salts, lycine pidolate, arginine pilolate,
nordihydroguaiaretic acid, bioflavonoids, curcumin, lysine,
methionine, proline, superoxide dismutase, silymarin, tea extracts,
grape skin/seed extracts, melanin, and rosemary extracts may be
used.
[0108] E) Chelators
[0109] The skin benefit agent for use herein can also include
chelating agents. As used herein, the term "chelating agent" or
"chelator" refers to those skin benefit agents capable of removing
a metal ion from a system by forming a complex so that the metal
ion cannot readily participate in or catalyze chemical
reactions.
[0110] The chelating agents as skin benefit agents for use herein
are preferably formulated at concentrations ranging from about 0.1%
to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, by weight
of the composition. Non-limiting examples of suitable chelating
agents are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,487,884, issued Jan. 30,
1996 to Bissett et al.; International Publication No. 91/16035,
Bush et al., published Oct. 31, 1995; and International Publication
No. 91/16034, Bush et al., published Oct. 31, 1995.
[0111] Preferred chelating agents for use in the active phase of
the compositions of the present invention include furildioxime,
furilmonoxime, and derivatives thereof.
[0112] F) Flavonoids
[0113] The skin benefit agent for use herein includes flavonoid
compounds suitable for use on the hair or skin, preferred
concentrations of which range from about 0.01% to about 20%, more
preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about
0.5% to about 5%, by weight of the composition.
[0114] Non-limiting examples of flavonoids compounds suitable for
use as skin benefit agents include flavanones such as unsubstituted
flavanones, mono-substituted flavanones, and mixtures thereof;
chalcones selected from unsubstituted chalcones, mono-substituted
chalcones, di-substituted chalcones, tri-substituted chalcones, and
mixtures thereof; flavones selected from unsubstituted flavones,
mono-substituted flavones, di-substituted flavones, and mixtures
thereof; one or more isoflavones; coumarins selected from
unsubstituted coumarins, mono-substituted coumarins, di-substituted
coumarins, and mixtures thereof; chromones selected from
unsubstituted chromones, mono-substituted chromones, di-substituted
chromones, and mixtures thereof; one or more dicoumarols; one or
more chromanones; one or more chromanols; isomers (e.g., cis/trans
isomers) thereof; and mixtures thereof. By the term "substituted"
as used herein means flavonoids wherein one or more hydrogen atom
of the flavonoid has been independently replaced with hydroxyl,
C1-C8 alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxyl, O-glycoside, and the like or a mixture
of these substituents.
[0115] Examples of suitable flavonoids include, but are not limited
to, unsubstituted flavanone, mono-hydroxy flavanones (e.g.,
2'-hydroxy flavanone, 6-hydroxy flavanone, 7-hydroxy flavanone,
etc.), mono-alkoxy flavanones (e.g., 5-methoxy flavanone, 6-methoxy
flavanone, 7-methoxy flavanone, 4'-methoxy flavanone, etc.),
unsubstituted chalcone (especially unsubstituted trans-chalcone),
mono-hydroxy chalcones (e.g., 2'-hydroxy chalcone, 4'-hydroxy
chalcone, etc.), di-hydroxy chalcones (e.g., 2',4-dihydroxy
chalcone, 2',4'-dihydroxy chalcone, 2,2'-dihydroxy chalcone,
2',3-dihydroxy chalcone, 2',5'-dihydroxy chalcone, etc.), and
tri-hydroxy chalcones (e.g., 2',3',4'-trihydroxy chalcone,
4,2',4'-trihydroxy chalcone, 2,2',4'-trihydroxy chalcone, etc.),
unsubstituted flavone, 7,2'-dihydroxy flavone, 3',4'-dihydroxy
naphthoflavone, 4'-hydroxy flavone, 5,6-benzoflavone, and
7,8-benzoflavone, unsubstituted isoflavone, daidzein
(7,4'-dihydroxy isoflavone), 5,7-dihydroxy-4'-methoxy isoflavone,
soy isoflavones (a mixture extracted from soy), unsubstituted
coumarin, 4-hydroxy coumarin, 7-hydroxy coumarin,
6-hydroxy-4-methyl coumarin, unsubstituted chromone, 3-formyl
chromone, 3-formyl-6-isopropyl chromone, unsubstituted dicoumarol,
unsubstituted chromanone, unsubstituted chromanol, and mixtures
thereof.
[0116] Among these flavanoid compounds, preferred are unsubstituted
flavanone, methoxy flavanones, unsubstituted chalcone,
2',4-dihydroxy chalcone, isoflavone, flavone, and mixtures thereof,
more preferably soy isoflavones.
[0117] Other non-limiting examples of flavanoid compounds suitable
for use as skin benefit agents herein are described in U.S. Pat.
Nos. 5,686,082 and 5,686,367.
[0118] G) Anti-Inflammatory Agents
[0119] The skin benefit agent for use in the present composition
can include anti-inflammatory agents, preferred concentrations of
which range from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from
about 0.5% to about 5%, by weight of the composition.
[0120] Non-limiting examples of steroidal anti-inflammatory agents
suitable for use herein include corticosteroids such as
hydrocortisone, hydroxyltriamcinolone, alpha-methyl dexamethasone,
dexamethasone-phosphate, beclomethasone dipropionates, clobetasol
valerate, desonide, desoxymethasone, desoxycorticosterone acetate,
dexamethasone, dichlorisone, diflorasone diacetate, diflucortolone
valerate, fluadrenolone, fluclorolone acetonide, fludrocortisone,
flumethasone pivalate, fluosinolone acetonide, fluocinonide,
flucortine butylesters, fluocortolone, fluprednidene
(fluprednylidene) acetate, flurandrenolone, halcinonide,
hydrocortisone acetate, hydrocortisone butyrate,
methylprednisolone, triamcinolone acetonide, cortisone,
cortodoxone, flucetonide, fludrocortisone, difluorosone diacetate,
fluradrenolone, fludrocortisone, diflurosone diacetate,
fluradrenolone acetonide, medrysone, amcinafel, amcinafide,
betamethasone and the balance of its esters, chloroprednisone,
chlorprednisone acetate, clocortelone, clescinolone, dichlorisone,
diflurprednate, flucloronide, flunisolide, fluoromethalone,
fluperolone, fluprednisolone, hydrocortisone valerate,
hydrocortisone cyclopentylpropionate, hydrocortamate, meprednisone,
paramethasone, prednisolone, prednisone, beclomethasone
dipropionate, triamcinolone, and mixtures thereof may be used. The
preferred steroidal anti-inflammatory for use is
hydrocortisone.
[0121] Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents are also suitable for
use herein as skin benefit agents in the active phase of the
compositions. Non-limiting examples of non-steroidal
anti-inflammatory agents suitable for use herein include oxicams
(e.g., piroxicam, isoxicam, tenoxicam, sudoxicam, CP-14,304);
salicylates (e.g., aspirin, disalcid, benorylate, trilisate,
safapryn, solprin, diflunisal, fendosal); acetic acid derivatives
(e.g., diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin,
isoxepac, furofenac, tiopinac, zidometacin, acematacin, fentiazac,
zomepirac, clindanac, oxepinac, felbinac, ketorolac); fenamates
(e.g., mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic, niflumic, tolfenamic
acids); propionic acid derivatives (e,g., ibuprofen, naproxen,
benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen,
indopropfen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen,
miroprofen, tioxaprofen, suprofen, alminoprofen, tiaprofenic);
pyrazoles (e.g., phenylbutazone, oxyphenbutazone, feprazone,
azapropazone, trimethazone); and combinations thereof as well as
any dermatologically acceptable salts or esters of thereof.
[0122] Other non-limiting examples of suitable anti-inflammatory or
similar other skin benefit agents include candelilla wax, bisabolol
(e.g., alpha bisabolol), aloe vera, plant sterols (e.g.,
phytosterol), Manjistha (extracted from plants in the genus Rubia,
particularly Rubia Cordifolia), and Guggal (extracted from plants
in the genus Commiphora, particularly Commiphora Mukul), kola
extract, chamomile, red clover extract, sea whip extract, and
combinations thereof.
[0123] Other non-limiting examples of suitable anti-inflammatory or
similar other skin benefit agents include compounds of the Licorice
(the plant genus/species Glycyrrhiza glabra) family, including
glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and derivatives thereof
(e.g., salts and esters). Suitable salts of the foregoing compounds
include metal and ammonium salts. Suitable esters include
C.sub.2-C.sub.24 saturated or unsaturated esters of the acids,
preferably C.sub.10-C.sub.24, more preferably C.sub.16-C.sub.24.
Specific non-limiting examples of the foregoing include oil soluble
licorice extract, the glycyrrhizic and glycyrrhetic acids
themselves, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium
glycyrrhizinate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 1-beta-glycyrrhetic
acid, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, and 3-stearyloxy-glycyrrhetinic
acid, disodium 3-succinyloxy-beta-glycyrrheti- nate, and
combinations thereof.
[0124] H) Anti-Cellulite Agents
[0125] The skin benefit agent for use in the compositions of the
present invention anti-cellulite agents, non-limiting examples of
which include xanthine compounds such as caffeine, theophylline,
theobromine, aminophylline, and combinations thereof.
[0126] I) Topical Anesthetics
[0127] The skin benefit agent for use in the present invention
include topical anesthetics, non-limiting examples of which include
benzocaine, lidocaine, bupivacaine, chlorprocaine, dibucaine,
etidocaine, mepivacaine, tetracaine, dyclonine, hexylcaine,
procaine, ketamine, pramoxine, phenol, pharmaceutically acceptable
salts thereof, and combinations thereof.
[0128] J) Tanning Actives
[0129] The skin benefit agent for use in the present invention
include tanning actives, preferred concentrations of which range
from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of such tanning agents include
dihydroxyacetone, which is also known as DHA or
1,3-dihydroxy-2-propanone.
[0130] K) Skin Lightening Agents
[0131] The skin benefit agent for use in the present invention can
include skin lightening agents, preferred concentrations of which
range from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2%
to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, by weight
of the composition. Non-limiting examples of skin lightening agents
suitable for use herein include kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid
and derivatives thereof (e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or
sodium ascorbyl phosphate), and extracts (e.g., mulberry extract,
placental extract) as well as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
Non-limiting examples of skin lightening agents suitable for use
herein also include those described in WO 95/34280, WO 95/07432,
and WO 95/23780.
[0132] L) Skin Soothing and Skin Healing Actives
[0133] The skin benefit agent for use in the present invention
include skin soothing and skin healing actives, preferred
concentrations of which range from about 0.1% to about 30%, more
preferably from about 0.5% to about 20%, still more preferably from
about 0.5% to about 10%, by weight of the composition. Non-limiting
examples of skin soothing or skin healing actives suitable for use
herein include panthenoic acid derivatives (e.g., panthenol,
dexpanthenol, ethyl panthenol), aloe vera, allantoin, bisabolol,
and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.
[0134] M) Antimicrobial Actives
[0135] The skin benefit agent for use in compositions of the
present invention may include antimicrobial actives, preferred
concentrations of which range from about 0.001% to about 10%, more
preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, and still more preferably
from about 0.05% to about 2%, by weight of the compositions.
[0136] Non-limiting examples of antimicrobial actives for use
herein includes .beta.-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs,
ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin,
2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether,
3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxy propanol,
phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine,
chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, clindamycin, ethambutol,
hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin,
kanamycin, lineomycin, methacycline, methenamine, minocycline,
neomycin, netilmicin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin,
miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, zinc
erythromycin, erythromycin estolate, erythromycin stearate,
amikacin sulfate, doxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate,
chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride,
chlortetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride,
clindamycin hydrochloride, ethambutol hydrochloride, metronidazole
hydrochloride, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamicin sulfate,
kanamycin sulfate, lineomycin hydrochloride, methacycline
hydrochloride, methenamine hippurate, methenamine mandelate,
minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, netilmicin sulfate,
paromomycin sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate,
miconazole hydrochloride, ketaconazole, amanfadine hydrochloride,
amanfadine sulfate, octopirox, parachlorometa xylenol, nystatin,
tolnaftate, zinc pyrithione, clotrimazole, and combinations
thereof.
[0137] N) Sunscreen Actives
[0138] The skin benefit agent for use in the present invention may
comprise a sunscreen active, either organic or inorganic sunscreen
actives. Among the inorganic sunscreens useful hererin are metallic
oxides such as titanium dioxide having an average primary particle
size of from about 15 nm to about 100 nm, zinc oxide having an
average primary particle size of from about 15 nm to about 150 nm,
zirconium oxide having an average primary particle size of from
about 15 nm to about 150 nm, iron oxide having an average primary
particle size of from about 15 nm to about 500 nm, and mixtures
thereof.
[0139] The concentration of the sunscreen active for use in the
composition preferably ranges from about 0.1% to about 20%, more
typically from about 0.5% to about 10%, by weight of the
composition. Exact amounts of such sunscreen actives will vary
depending upon the sunscreen or sunscreens chosen and the desired
Sun Protection Factor (SPF).
[0140] A wide variety of conventional organic sunscreen actives are
also suitable for use herein, non-limiting examples of which
include p-aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl,
isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid);
anthranilates (i.e., o-amino-benzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl,
benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters);
salicylates (amyl, phenyl, octyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and
di-pro-pyleneglycol esters); cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and
benzyl esters, a-phenyl cinnamonitrile; butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate);
dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone,
methylumbelliferone, methylaceto-umbelliferone);
trihydroxy-cinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin,
daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculin and daphnin); hydrocarbons
(diphenylbutadiene, stilbene); dibenzalacetone and
benzalacetophenone; naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of
2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic and of 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids);
di-hydroxynaphthoic acid and its salts; o- and
p-hydroxybiphenyldisulfona- tes; coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy,
7-methyl, 3-phenyl); diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenyl
benzoxazole, methyl naphthoxazole, various aryl benzothiazoles);
quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate, and tannate);
quinoline derivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline salts,
2-phenylquinoline); hydroxy- or methoxy-substituted benzophenones;
uric and violuric acids; tannic acid and its derivatives (e.g.,
hexaethylether); (butyl carbotol) (6-propyl piperonyl) ether;
hydroquinone; benzophenones (oxybenzene, sulisobenzone,
dioxybenzone, benzoresorcinol, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone,
2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, octabenzone;
4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane; butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane;
etocrylene; octocrylene; [3-(4'-methylbenzylidene bornan-2-one),
terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and
4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane. Among these sunscreens, preferred
are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as
PARSOL MCX), 4,4'-butyl methoxydibenzoyl-methane (commercially
available as PARSOL 1789), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,
octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate,
2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,
ethyl-4-(bis(hydroxypropyl))aminoben- zoate,
2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl-salicylate,
glyceryl-p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-tri-methylcyclohexylsalicylate,
methylanthranilate, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate,
2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate,
2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid,
2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid, octocrylene
and combinations thereof.
[0141] Non-limiting examples of other sunscreen actives suitable
for use herein include those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,937,370
issued to Sabatelli on Jun. 26, 1990, and U.S. Pat. No. 4,999,186
issued to Sabatelli & Spirnak on Mar. 12, 1991. Among those
sunscreen actives described, preferred are
4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of
2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone; N,N-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-aminobenzoic
acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane;
4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methyl-ami- nobenzoic acid ester with
4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methyl-aminobenzoic
acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone;
4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)-methylami- nobenzoic acid ester of
4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane;
N,N-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-aminobenzoic acid ester of
2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone; and
N,N-di-(2-ethylhexyl)4-ami- nobenzoic acid ester of
4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof.
Especially preferred sunscreen actives include
4,4'-t-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,
2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic
acid, and octocrylene.
[0142] O) Visual Skin Enhancers
[0143] The skin benefit agent for use in compositions of the
present invention may include visual skin enhancement ingredients.
These include ingredients that mask the appearance of any number of
skin imperfections such as age spot, fine lines, wrinkles,
blemishes etc., including but not limited to titanium dioxide, zinc
oxide and iron oxides. Also suitable for use herein are organic
particulates that diffuse light when deposited on the skin.
Preferred concentrations of these ingredients range from about
0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%,
and still more preferably from about 0.05% to about 2%, by weight
of the compositions.
[0144] Method of Use
[0145] The present invention is also directed to methods of using
the skin conditioning compositions of the present invention
comprising the steps of:
[0146] (A) preparing a rinsable skin condition composition
comprising at least one high internal phase emulsion comprising
[0147] I. (i) an oil;
[0148] (ii) a stabilizer;
[0149] (iii) water; and
[0150] II. the balance being conventional cosmetic and skin care
ingredients,
[0151] wherein the composition is substantially free of
surfactant;
[0152] (B) applying the product of step (A) to wet human skin; and
(C) rinsing the product off of the skin.
[0153] While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that
efficacy of the product can be linked to the ability of the
consumer to understand the usage instructions and to use the
product accordingly. The instruction set included may contain
pictures or illustrations of the product being applied as well as
written instructions. Therefore, the present invention also relates
to an article of commerce comprising a container comprising a rinse
off skin conditioning composition, which provides skin conditioning
and moisturizing benefits to the human skin when applied in the
shower and/or bath and rinsed and comprises:
[0154] I. at least one high internal phase emulsion comprising
[0155] i) an oil
[0156] ii) a stabilizer;
[0157] iii) water; and
[0158] II. the balance being conventional cosmetic and skin care
ingredients,
[0159] wherein the composition is substantially free of surfactant
and wherein said container has instructions for conditioning and
moisturizing the skin comprising the instructions to wash skin and
rinse as normal, smooth product onto skin while out of the flow of
water, rinse briefly, and pat dry with towel.
[0160] Method of Manufacture
[0161] The skin conditioning compositions of the present invention
may be prepared by any known or otherwise effective technique,
suitable for making and formulating the desired product form.
Specific non-limiting examples of such methods as they are applied
to specific embodiments of the present invention are described in
the following examples. For illustration purposes only, the
following suitable method of manufacture employs two high internal
phase emulsion premixes, to prepare a single product. Depending
upon the properties of the specific oils and stabilizers selected
it will be recognized by one of skill in the art that certain
modifications may need to be made to the manufacturing method. It
is contemplated however, that one or any number of premixes can be
made and mixed together to form the final product.
[0162] An oil premix is prepared as follows:
[0163] 1. Add ambient temperature water to a vessel
[0164] 2. Add stabilizer to water.
[0165] 3. Heat and mix water and stabilizer with a propeller blade
until it reaches 85.degree. C.
[0166] 4. Continue to mix at 85.degree. C. until stabilizer is
completely hydrated (viscosity will increase as stabilizer hydrates
and then decrease when stabilizer is hydrated--approximately 30
minutes)
[0167] 5. In a separate vessel add oil and heat and mix at
85.degree. C.
[0168] 6. Add oil to water/stabilizer mixture slowly and increase
propeller blade speed.
[0169] 7. Continue to mix for 5 minutes at 85.degree. C.
[0170] 8. Add preservative to mixture and decrease temperature to
75.degree. C.
[0171] Any number of oil premixes can be prepared as described
above and used alone or in combination with other oil premixes in a
final product. Skin benefit agents can also be included in the oil
premixes.
[0172] Fatty Alcohol Gel Network Main Mix
[0173] 9. Add ambient temperature water to a vessel
[0174] 10. Add Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine and glutamic acid and
stabilizer to water.
[0175] 11. Heat and mix mixture with a propeller blade until it
reaches 85.degree. C.
[0176] 12. Continue to mix at 85.degree. C. until stabilizer is
completely hydrated (viscosity will increase as stabilizer hydrates
and then decrease when stabilizer is hydrated--approximately 30
minutes)
[0177] 13. Add fatty alcohol to hot mixture and continue to mix
until fatty alcohol is completely melted.
[0178] 14. Transfer to high shear mixer for 5 minutes.
[0179] Add Oil Premixs
[0180] 15. Oil premixs are cooled to 75.degree. C. and passed
through a static mixer (or mill) to achieve desired particle size
if necessary then added into the fatty alcohol gel network main mix
tank with agitation.
[0181] Add Optional Ingredients i.e. Preservative and Perfume
[0182] 16. Add solid preservatives first and liquid preservatives
next.
[0183] 17. Mix slowly to move entire batch.
[0184] 18. Cool mixture to 42.degree. C. and add remaining
preservatives, fragrance and other conventional ingredients.
[0185] Continue mixing for 15 minutes
EXAMPLES
[0186] The following examples further describe and demonstrate
embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples
are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be
construed as limitations of the present invention, as many
variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit
and scope of the invention. All exemplified amounts are
concentrations by weight of the total composition, i.e., wt/wt
percentages, unless otherwise specified.
[0187] Each of the exemplified compositions provides improved
cosmetics during and after application, including reduced greasy or
sticky skin feel, and provides improved deposition or effectiveness
of the skin conditioning agent delivered from each prepared
composition.
1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 water 58.198 48.688 43.688 48.888
51.278 51.078 58.198 58.036 53.688 45.188 40.188 44.188 petrolatum
30.000 40.000 40.000 40.000 40.000 40.000 0.000 20.000 40.000
40.000 40.000 40.000 shea butter 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
0.000 30.000 10.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 Dimethicone/ 5.000
5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 0.000 0.000 5.000 5.000 5.000
Dimethiconol sunflower oil 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
0.000 5.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 glycerine 0.000 0.000 5.000
0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 stearyl
alcohol 2.310 2.310 2.310 2.310 0.430 0.430 2.310 2.310 2.310 2.310
2.310 2.310 cetyl alcohol 1.290 1.290 1.290 1.290 0.240 0.240 1.290
1.290 1.290 1.290 1.290 1.290 cetylhydroxy 1.250 0.760 0.760 0.760
1.310 1.310 1.250 1.400 0.760 0.760 0.760 0.760 cellulose perfume
1.200 1.200 1.200 1.000 1.000 1.200 1.200 1.200 1.200 1.200 1.200
1.200 glydant 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370
0.370 0.370 0.370 phenoxytol 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250
0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 disodium EDTA 0.120 0.120 0.120
0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 SAPDMA.sup.1
0.009 0.009 0.009 0.009 0.002 0.002 0.009 0.018 0.009 0.009 0.009
0.009 glutamic acid 0.003 0.003 0.003 0.003 0.001 0.001 0.003 0.006
0.003 0.003 0.003 0.003 propane/isobutane 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 3.500 0.000 0.000 pentane propellant
ZnO.sub.2 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
0.000 5.000 0.000 tocopherol 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 1.000 nicotinate
.sup.1Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
[0188] While particular embodiments of the present invention have
been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those
skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can
be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the
invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims
all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of
this invention.
* * * * *