U.S. patent application number 10/309510 was filed with the patent office on 2003-07-31 for formulations and methods for straightening hair.
Invention is credited to Buck, Carol J..
Application Number | 20030143173 10/309510 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 27615897 |
Filed Date | 2003-07-31 |
United States Patent
Application |
20030143173 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Buck, Carol J. |
July 31, 2003 |
Formulations and methods for straightening hair
Abstract
Compositions and methods for treating keratin-related conditions
and disorders such as straightening and styling hair, treating nail
fungal conditions such as onychomycosis, ingrown nails, and
hyperkeratotic conditions of the epidermis such as psoriasis, acne,
callouses, corns, verruca, particularly plantar warts, and surface
lines and blemishes of aging skin by aiding the exfoliation of
keratinocytes. The compositions comprise at least one alkanoic acid
in aqueous solution.
Inventors: |
Buck, Carol J.; (Princeton,
NJ) |
Correspondence
Address: |
Mathews, Collins, Shepherd & McKay, P.A.
Suite 306
100 Thanet Circle
Princeton
NJ
08540
US
|
Family ID: |
27615897 |
Appl. No.: |
10/309510 |
Filed: |
December 4, 2002 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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10309510 |
Dec 4, 2002 |
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09514049 |
Feb 25, 2000 |
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6517822 |
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09514049 |
Feb 25, 2000 |
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09023449 |
Feb 13, 1998 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.2 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/365 20130101;
A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61K 8/36 20130101; A61K 2800/28 20130101;
A61Q 3/00 20130101; A61K 8/361 20130101; A61Q 19/08 20130101; A61Q
5/00 20130101; A61Q 5/04 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/70.2 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/09 |
Claims
I claim:
1. A hair-straightening formulation comprising: (i) at least one
alkanoic acid; and (ii) an acceptable diluent, wherein the
hair-straightening formulation does not include use of an effective
amount of an alkaline hair-straightening agent.
2. The formulation of claim 1 wherein the diluent comprises water,
and comprising about 0.25% to 30% alkanoic acid and greater than
50% water by weight.
3. The formulation of claim 2 further comprising less than 30% of
at least one auxillary component selected from a fragrance, odor
masker, conditioner, gelling agent, and penetration enhancer.
4. The formulation of claim 1 in which the alkanoic acid is
selected from the group consisting of acetic, methanoic, ethanoic,
2-methylbutanoic, propanoic, 2-methylpropanoic, 2,2
dimethylpropanoic, decanoic, octanoic, hex-2-enoic, heptanoic,
6-methylheptanoic, 3-ethylpentanoic, 3-chloropentanoic,
2-hydroxypropanoic, 2-chloro-4-hydroxyhexanoic, hexanedioic,
octadecanoic, 4-oxopentanoic, and 6-hydroxy-4-oxonanoic acids.
5. A hair-straightening formulation consisting essentially of about
0.25 to 30% by weight of at least one alkanoic acid diluted in
greater than 50% water by weight; and less than 30% by weight of at
least one auxiliary component selected from a fragrance, odor
masker, conditioner, penetration enhancer, and gelling agent,
6. The formulation of claim 5 having a pH value of less than 7.0
effective for straightening hair.
7. A method for straightening hair comprising (i) contacting said
hair with a formulation comprising at least one alkanoic acid, an
acceptable diluent comprising greater than one-percent water, and
optionally at least one auxiliary component; (ii) optionally
washing said hair with a shampoo; (iii) optionally conditioning
said hair, wherein an effective amount of an alkaline hair
straightening agent is not applied to the hair.
8. The method of claim 7 in which the alkanoic acid is selected
from the group consisting of acetic, methanoic, ethanoic,
2-methylbutanoic, propanoic, 2-methylpropanoic, 2,2
dimethylpropanoic, decanoic, octanoic, hex-2-enoic, heptanoic,
6-methylheptanoic, 3-ethylpentanoic, 3-chloropentanoic,
2-hydroxypropanoic, 2-chloro4-hydroxyhexanoic, hexanedioic,
octadecanoic, 4-oxopentanoic, and 6-hydroxy-4-oxonanoic acids
10. The method of claim 7 comprising at least one of
hair-straightening maintenance, relaxation of curl, and reduction
of frizziness of hair produced from humid weather.
11. A method for straightening hair comprising contacting said hair
with a hair-straightening formulation comprising at least one
alkanoic acid and a diluent comprising greater than one-percent
water wherein the hair-straightening formulation has a pH of less
than 7.0.
12. A hair-straightening formulation comprising approximately 0.25
to 70% of at least one alkanoic acid diluted in acceptable diluent
comprising greater than five percent water.
13. A hair-straightening formulation comprising approximately 0.25
to 70% of at least one alkanoic acid diluted in acceptable diluent
comprising greater than five percent water, wherein the formulation
does not include use of an effective amount of an alkaline
hair-straightening agent and has a pH of less than 7.0.
14. A formulation for hair-straightening maintenance, relaxation of
curl, and reduction of frizziness of hair comprising approximately
0.25% to 70% of at least one alkanoic acid diluted in an acceptable
diluent comprising greater than five percent water.
Description
RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application is a continuation-in-part of U.S. patent
application Ser. No. 09/023,449, and claims the benefit of the
priority date thereof.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The invention relates to formulations and methods for
straightening or relaxing the curl of hair, particularly naturally
kinky and curly hair.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0003] Hair generally can be divided into four categories: (i)
straight, (ii) wavy, (iii) curly, and (iv) kinky. The human hair
shaft is comprised of three concentric layers identified as the
cuticle (a thin, outer-most shell); the cortex (the main body of
the hair); and the medulla (a thin, central core). The cuticle and
cortex are responsible for the hair shaft's mechanical properties,
that is, its tendency to curl (in some hair the medulla is absent).
The condition of the cuticle is responsible for the outward
appearance of the hair, particularly feel and shine. Straight hair
resembles a rod with a circular diameter; wavy hair shafts are
compressed into an oval diameter; curly shafts are further
compressed into an elongated ellipse; and kinky hair shafts are
flatter still. Hair shaft configurations can be represented as
follows:
1 Straight Wavy Curly Kinky 1 2 3 4
[0004] Many people with naturally kinky, curly, or even wavy hair
often desire to straighten their hair. There are a number of hair
straightening compositions and methods available today, but these
involve use of harsh straightening agents such as alkaline or
sulfite-based chemicals. To permanently alter the natural curl of
human hair, a number of types of bonds within the hair are cleaved,
including salt bridges and disulfide bonds. Human hair is composed
of cross-linked, a-helix protein, primarily keratin. Keratin is a
complex of polypeptide chains of high molecular weight. The hair
shaft will maintain its outward shape by ionic bonding or salt
bridges (disulfide or cystine bridges) which pair various amino
acids found in the hair. Current straightening methods break
disulfide bonds into free sulfhydryls and then re-establish new
disulfide bonds in the desired configuration by reduction/oxidation
of the hair shaft using various chemicals.
[0005] Most permanent straightening products marketed today use one
of five types of chemicals: (1) thioglycolate-based products, (2)
sulfite-bisulfite products, (3) sodium hydroxide (alkali) products,
(4) lithium hydroxide, and (5) acetamide (formulated as a
between-shampoos, aerosol styling aid). See, e.g., AMA BOOK OF SKIN
AND HAIR CARE, Schoen, L A, Ed., American Medical Association, (JB
Lippincott Co., NY 1976), which is incorporated herein, at p.
116-119. In all these cases excepting acetamide, the chemical agent
is applied to clean, damp hair that has been pulled straight by
combing action. After a carefully-measured period of time, the
disulfide bonds are broken, the solution is rinsed off, and a
second solution (often hydrogen peroxide or other oxidizing agent)
is applied to neutralize the reaction. These products produce
varying levels of effectiveness in hair straightening; however,
there are drawbacks to using them in terms of safety, toxicity,
risk of damaging the hair, and protection of the skin and
scalp.
[0006] For example, thioglycolate straighteners produce reversible
changes, in the chemical disulfide bonds of hair by generating free
oxygen radicals for 10 to 20 minutes. Concern about the
teratogenicity of thioglycolate has recently caused the United
States Department of Health and Human Services to post notice of a
need to review their safety for human use. Bisulfite straighteners
produce reversible bond changes, and are milder on skin than
thioglycolate straighteners. However, bisulfite straighteners still
present a risk of hair and skin damage, and they are typically used
in combination with alkaline agents which can irritate and burn the
skin and scalp. In the straightening procedure, bisulfite lotion is
applied to clean, damp hair, which is covered in plastic for a
period of time, then combed straight, rinsed, treated with an
alkaline stabilizer, and conditioned.
[0007] Like other known methods, alkali lotions cannot be used on
irritated or injured scalps. Also, the harshness of alkali lotions
presents the risk of skin irritations or burns on a healthy scalp.
As new hair grows in, it alone should be exposed to the chemical
straighteners, an often delicate and difficult procedure that
avoids lotion contact with both the scalp and the previously
treated hair. In this method, sodium hydroxide lotion is applied to
the hair and smoothed flat with finger pressure. A `normalizer`
pre-shampoo rinse is then applied followed by a water rinse. The
hair is then shampooed twice, conditioned and administered a
setting/styling/wrapping lotion prior to styling and drying.
[0008] Typically, to be effective as a straightening agent, the
alkali hair straighteners include use of about 1.8 to 4 weight % of
strong bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or
lithium hydroxide. Use of alkali agents at these concentrations
result in compositions having pH values of above 9 pH and more
often above 12 pH. For example, a hair relaxer referred to as
CLEARGEL 862.TM. uses a 50% solution with 3.5 wt. % sodium
hydroxide which produces a composition having a pH of 12.5 to 12.7
at 25.degree. C. Use of alkaline agents at such concentrations
presents a safety risk and also complicates the process of hair
straightening, as various steps need to be made to protect the
scalp and administer the lotion. As an illustration, U.S. Pat. No.
4,592,908 to Wajaroff el al. discloses a protective cream that is
adapted to be applied to the scalp before a strongly alkaline
hair-straightening agent is used. Wajaroff's cream comprises
VASELINE.RTM. and organic acids, containing less than 1% water,
which is applied to the scalp, but not the hair. A strongly
alkaline hair-straightening agent is then applied to the hair.
According to the Wajaroff method, the cream placed on the scalp
will neutralize the alkaline agents that may reach the scalp, thus
protecting the scalp. The Wajaroff method, however, uses strongly
alkaline agents, and additionally, it requires extra steps in
applying the protective gel to the scalp and then removing that gel
after the hair straightening steps have been performed.
[0009] The "no lye" method uses lithium hydroxide, also a human
toxin, in combination with other ingredients as the relaxing agent.
The user is also cautioned against skin and scalp burns, possible
hair loss, and eye injury. The product is contraindicated for
persons with damaged or chemically-treated hair and irritated
scalp. Acetamide (CH.sub.3CONH.sub.2) is an organic, crystal
compound in the urea and guanine series which has recently been
formulated into a cosmetic spray-on, straightener styling aid for
use between shampoos. Acetamide is a known irritant to the eyes,
nose, and throat and has shown low-to-moderate acute toxicity from
oral exposure, including liver tumors, in animal studies.
[0010] Other methods of breaking disulfide bonds in hair employ
high-heat appliances. In this method heat combs set at 300.degree.
F. are pulled quickly through long hair, which instantly breaks
disulfide bonds leaving the hair straight. This process can result
in damaging hair permanently if the temperature and combing speed
are not carefully managed.
[0011] U.S. Pat. No. 3,654,936 to Wajaroff describes the use of a
keratin softener for straightening hair. In this method hair is
treated with a reducing agent then straightened by the action of a
"keratin softener" combined with swelling or penetration-promoting
agents, while being straightened mechanically prior to the
application of a fixation agent.
[0012] Other straightening methods include the use of humectants
such as fatty acid lactylates and fatty acid glycolates to improve
the hair's texture (see U.S. Pat. No. 4,424,820, "Hair
Straightening Compositions Containing Fatty Acid Lactylates and
Glycolates and their Method of Use," issued to Cannell, D. et al.
and assigned to Redken Laboratories, which is incorporated herein),
and the use of dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether as a swelling
and penetrating agent. (See U.S. Pat. No. 4,859,459, "Method of
Shaping Human Hair Using Dipropylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether,"
Greiche, J., et al., assigned to Wella Aktiengesellschaft, Germany,
also incorporated herein.)
[0013] Accordingly, the current methods of hair straightening
remain dangerous to the skin, eyes, and hair. In some cases, direct
contact between the skin and the straightening agent can result in
second- and third-degree chemical burns or even hair loss. None of
the known methods are recommended if the scalp or skin is
sensitive, scaly, scratched, sore or tender. Unsatisfactory and
sometimes harmful results occur if the directions are not carefully
followed. As may be appreciated, there is a need for a
hair-straightening composition and method that avoids the use of
harmful chemicals and irritants that have been used in previous
compositions. There further remains a need for a hair straightening
agent that provides the consumer with a greater choice of options
and products that may be safely used at home.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0014] Applicant has discovered a formulation for straightening
hair that avoids the dangers of the alkaline and other harsh
ingredients of prior art compositions. The present invention
relates to formulations for straightening hair comprising alkanoic
acids, combined with water, optionally in combination with other
suitable diluents. The inventive formulation is acidic, not
alkaline, and the acids suitable for use in the inventive
formulations preferably are selected from acetic and propanoic
acids. The invention does not use an alkaline hair-straightening
agent to perform the hair straightening function. Instead, the step
of hair straightening is accomplished by applying the non-alkaline,
alkanoic acid and water formulation to the hair and then either
leaving the formulation in the hair without rinsing, or shampooing
the formulation out of the hair followed by optional conditioning.
The formulation is also effective for hair-straightening
maintenance, relaxation of curl, and reduction of frizziness of
hair produced from humid weather.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0015] For a better understanding of the invention, exemplary
embodiments are described below, considered together with the
accompanying figures, in which:
[0016] FIGS. 1A and 1B are photographs showing the condition of a
subject's hair before and after treatment, respectively, with one
embodiment of the inventive formulations using 18% acetic acid and
greater than 50% water as a diluent;
[0017] FIGS. 2A and 2B are photographs showing the condition of a
subject's hair before and after treatment, respectively, with one
embodiment of the inventive formulations using 18% acetic acid and
greater than 50% water as a diluent;
[0018] FIGS. 3A and 3B are photographs showing the condition of a
subject's hair before and after treatment, respectively, with one
embodiment of the inventive formulations using 10% acetic acid and
greater than 80% water as a diluent;
[0019] FIGS. 4A and 4B are photographs showing the condition of a
subject's hair before treatment (FIG. 4A) and after five treatments
(FIG. 4B), with one embodiment of the inventive formulations using
5% acetic acid;
[0020] FIGS. 5A, 5B, 5C are swatches of hair taken from a subject
before treatment and
[0021] FIGS. 6A, 6B, and 6C are the same swatches after receiving a
single fifteen-minute treatment with formulations containing
glacial acetic acid and 1%, 5%, and 95% water, respectively.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0022] The invention relates to formulations and methods for safely
straightening (relaxing) hair, including naturally kinky, curly or
wavy hair. The inventive formulation comprises a solution
containing alkanoic acid and a diluent. The formulation is safe and
does not present a risk of irritating or burning the skin or scalp.
No protective creams need to be applied to protect the skin or
scalp in using the formulation. Advantageously, the formulation
contains greater than 5% (w/w) alkanoic acid and greater than 5%
(w/w) of the diluent, more preferably greater than 20% of the
diluent, and even more preferably greater than 50% of the diluent.
With regard to the concentration of the alkanoic acid, maximum
hair-straightening results are achieved when the formulation
contains in the range of about 30-70% (w/w) of the alkanoic acid. A
formulation having 95% acid retains some effectiveness, but a
concentration having 99% acid has been found to be ineffective.
Formulations having greater than 30% alkanoic acid are not
recommended, however, in seeking to maintai maximum safety benefits
of the invention. When less than 30% alkanoic acid is used, and
more preferably when less than 20% acetic acid is used, the
formulation is still effective in straightening hair and also may
be used even when the scalp or skin is scaly, scratched, or tender,
without the need to apply protective creams. Thus, applicant
considers formulations having from 8 to 30% alkanoic acid to be
preferred, and formulations having from 9 to 20% alkanoic acid to
be even more preferred. In one embodiment, the formulation is used
to reduce or control frizziness that may arise with humidity. In
that instance, an alkanoic acid concentration of 2 to 30% is
preferred, more preferably 2 to 20%, and even more preferably 2 to
10%.
[0023] With this invention, alkaline agents are not used to perform
a hair straightening function. The inventive hair straightening
formulation is acidic, not alkaline. Before and/or after the
formulation for straightening the hair is applied, shampoos,
conditioners and various other hair care products may be used on
the hair. Some shampoos, conditioners and/or styling gels may
contain alkaline agents. Typically, however, the alkaline
ingredients are present in small quantities, and many shampoos,
conditioners, and styling aids have pH values in the range of 5.5
to 7.5. In fact, the pH values of typical hair products are often
adjusted downward to about 4.5 to 5.5 in order to be "pH balanced,"
reflecting the lower pH of skin (4.5). The degree of alkalinity
and/or amounts of alkaline agents in these products are not
effective to perform a hair straightening function. An "effective
amount" of an alkaline hair straightening as used herein means use
of a sufficient amount of an alkali base, e.g., sodium hydroxide,
potassium hydroxide, or lithium hydroxide, to cause a temporary or
permanent straightening of the hair shaft. Typically, such an
effective amount comprises use of about 1.8 to 4.0% w/w of the
alkali base. Consequently, even when such auxiliary products are
used, the method of straightening hair according to this invention
does not include use of an effective amount of an alkali
hair-straightening agent.
[0024] This invention applies a method of straightening hair with
use of a low pH (less than 7 pH, typically less than 6 pH, and more
preferably less than 5.5 pH). The invention teaches that a dilute
solution of a weak, non-sulfur containing alkanoic acid (e.g.,
acetic acid in greater than 50% water) has the ability to disrupt
salt and hydrogen bonds within keratin fibers of hair shafts. This
teaching is contrary to all prior methods and chemical theories for
modifying the configuration of human hair, which as described above
have typically used sulfur-containing compounds and/or alkali
agents. Typical mercaptan-based hair treatment solutions require a
pH in excess of neutrality and normally exhibit a pH above 9.0.
[0025] As used herein, the term "alkanoic acid" refers to
carboxylic acids with alkane, alkene, or similar substituents.
Alkanoic acids have the following atomic grouping: 5
[0026] The preferred alkanoic acid is acetic acid (CH.sub.3COOH).
Acetic acid (CH.sub.3COOH) is a non-polar solvent: 6
[0027] Acetic acid may be identified as glacial acetic acid (in
pure form), and in water solution as ethanoic acid, ethylic acid,
methanecarboxylic acid, pyroligeneous acid, and vinegar acid.
Vinegar is a 5% aqueous solution of acetic acid.
[0028] However, other alkanoic acids are suitable for use in the
inventive formulation. For example, propanoic acid is effective,
and may be combined with use of acetic acid. Aqueous formulations
containing 12% acid with 50/50 acetic and propanoic acids were
found to be effective (Examples 11 and 12, below.) It has been
found that a 15% lactic acid solution and a 20% maleic acid
solution (aqueous solutions of lactic acid and maleic acid in
water) were effective in hair straightening. Other suitable acids
include, but are not limited to, methanoic acid, 2-methylbutanoic
acid, 2-methylpropanoic acid, 2,2 dimethylpropanoic acid, decanoic
acid, octanoic acid, hex-2-enoic acid, heptanoic acid,
6-methylheptanoic acid, 3-ethylpentanoic acid, 3-chloropentanoic
acid, 2-hydroxypropanoic acid, 2-chloro-4-hydroxyhexanoic acid,
hexanedioic acid, octadecanoic acid, 4-oxopentanoic acid, and
6-hydroxy-4-oxonanoic acid.
[0029] Advantageously, the inventive formulation contains at least
5% of the acetic acid, but not greater than 30%. A preferred
formulation for hair straightening comprises use of about 10 to 20%
acetic acid, more preferably about 10-12% acetic acid, diluted in
greater than 50% water or other diluent. The effectiveness of the
formulation per individual treatment will generally increase when
the concentration of acid is increased above 20% up until a point;
however, formulations having more than 20 to 30% alkanoic acid may
irritate the skin, causing a burning sensation. Also, a formulation
having 95% acetic acid in water is less effective than a
formulation having 5% acetic acid in water. Thus, formulations
having greater than 30% acetic acid will lose their effectiveness
at a certain point, and 99% acetic acid is not effective. Thus, it
is recommended that concentrations below 20% alkanoic acid be used.
Also, formulations having less than about 10% acid are still
effective and may be preferred for maintaining the straight
condition of previously-treated hair. For example, for
hair-straightening maintenance, a formulation having about 2 to 5%
alkanoic acid is advantageous. However, to perform the hair
straightening function itself, formulations having less than 10%
alkanoic acid will take a longer period of time to be effective
than formulations having more acid, and thus, repeated treatments
and/or treatments for longer periods of time may be needed.
[0030] Advantageously, the alkanoic acid is a weak acid. The term
"weak" acid is used to refer to acids which only feebly conduct
electricity (low conductivity) and are only partially ionized in
solution. For example, the electrical conductivity of acetic acid
(C.sub.2H.sub.3O.sub.2H), at a molarity of 0.1 is 4.67 reciprocal
ohms (mho). This contrasts to the conductivity of strong acids
which ionize completely in solution and have high conductivities
ranging from 60 to 350 mho at the same molarity.
[0031] The term "diluent" as used herein refers to substances that
may be used to dilute the alkanoic acids. Water is the preferred
diluent. The formulations require use of greater than 1% water to
be effective. Advantageously, greater than five percent water is
used, and more preferably, greater than 50%, and even more
preferably, greater than 80% water is used. Alcohols such as ethyl
alcohol and isopropyl alcohol may be used at low concentrations
(.about.5%) to enhance shaft penetration and reduce odor. High
concentrations (.about.35% and greater) of alcohols are not
suitable as they disrupt the effectiveness of the formulation.
[0032] The reactivity (effectiveness) of the inventive formulation
can be modulated by the concentration of the solution and the
temperature. When 0.01 mole of pure acetic acid is dissolved in a
liter of water at room temperature, about 4% of the solute will be
ionized by the time equilibrium is reached. However, this position
of equilibrium will vary depending upon the temperature and
concentration. For example, if 0.1 mol of pure acetic acid is added
to a flask so that the final volume is 1 liter, only 1.3% of the
acetic acid is ionized to acetate. The remaining 98.7% remains in
solution. An increase in temperature will also shift the position
of equilibrium in the direction of the process absorbing energy and
make the acid more reactive with carboxylic amino acids.
[0033] It will be appreciated that auxiliary ingredients may be
added to the formulations to mask the scent of the acid and/or
perform other functions besides hair straightening, such as
cleansing or conditioning. Also, gelling agents such as
XANTURAL.RTM. gum or other known gelling agents may be used to
create a desired consistency or viscosity to the formulation.
Advantageously, such auxiliary components comprise less than 50% of
the formulation, more preferably less than 30%, and even more
preferably less than 20% of the formulations. The auxiliary
components added to the formulations may include hydrolyzed soy
protein, safflower oil, aloe vera and other natural or synthetic
moisturizers, glycerin, lactamide MEA, panthenol (Vitamin B),
keratin amino acids, phytolipids, Shea butter or lanolin, mineral
oil, petrolatum, laneth-15, PEG-40 Stearate, milk protein,
methylparaben, papaya and other fruit extracts, chamomile,
anti-oxidants such as vitamin E, gamma linolenic acid, babassu oil,
evening primrose oil, lesquerella oil, jojoba oil, rose hips oil
and other plant oils, sea kelp; sunscreen factors; styling gels and
aerosols, witch hazel and other natural or synthetic setting
agents; salicylic acid, quaternium 15, thymol, eucalyptol, methyl
salicylate and other anti microbial agents, coal tar solutions,
alcohols, and other compounds medicinal or cosmetic to hair and
scalp; perfuming masks such as menthol, wintergreen oil, floral and
other fragrances, caramel, artificial colorants, and other
enhancers.
[0034] In application, the formulations can be applied to the hair
and left in the hair, or they may be rinsed out, followed by
cleansing and/or conditioning treatments. It is intended that the
formulations will be repeatedly applied to obtain maximum results.
For example, a formulation having a 10% concentration of alkanoic
acid (aqueous) can be applied to the hair for about 30 minutes two
to three times a week for several weeks to straighten kinky hair to
a desired condition. The hair may be placed in rollers or pulled
straight as the formulation is applied to provide mechanical
assistance to the straightening function.
[0035] The hair straightening formulation can be administered in
conjunction with other compositions and methods of treating and
styling hair such as hair sprays, shampoos, conditioners, hot oil
treatments, styling gels, heat curling, heat combing, chemical
processing (e.g., dying, bleaching, alternative methods of chemical
straightening and permanent waving, etc.). The formulations may be
used in combination with hair conditioners such as hydrolyzed soy
protein, safflower oil, aloe vera and other natural or synthetic
moisturizers, glycerin, lactamide MEA, panthenol (Vitamin B),
keratin amino acids, phytolipids, Shea butter or lanolin, mineral
oil, petrolatum, laneth-15, PEG-40 Stearate, milk protein,
methylparaben, papaya and other fruit extracts, chamomile,
anti-oxidants such as vitamin E, methylsulfonylmethane, gamma
linolenic acid, babassu oil, evening primrose oil, lesquerella oil,
jojoba oil, rose hips oil and other plant oils, sea kelp; sunscreen
factors; styling gels and aerosols, witch hazel and other natural
or synthetic setting agents; salicylic acid, quaternium 15, thymol,
eucalyptol, methyl salicylate and other anti microbial agents, coal
tar solutions, and other compounds medicinal or cosmetic to hair
and scalp; perfuming masks such as menthol, floral and other
fragrances, caramel, artificial colorants, penetration enhancers
such as alcohols and other enhancers.
[0036] Method of Applying the Formulations to Straighten the Hair.
An exemplary method of straightening hair utilizes a 5% solution of
acetic acid in warm-to-hot tap water (90.degree.-105.degree. F.) at
a ratio of 20 parts tap water to 1 part 5% acetic acid (aq) which
is freshly prepared in a basin or bowl. Higher concentrations of
the alkanoic acid may be used depending on the results desired and
hair type (e.g., kinky vs. curly hair). For hair that is difficult
to straighten (such as African American hair) or hair that is very
delicate or damaged (such as naturally blond and permed hair)
adjustments may be made in the temperature and concentration of the
method to maximize results or minimize harshness, keeping in mind
that with dilution, a milder straightening and setting solution is
formulated.
[0037] Effectiveness and reactivity may be enhanced by increasing
the temperature of the water. The "position of equilibrium" of the
agent will vary depending upon the temperature and concentration.
An advantageous temperature is between 95.degree.-105.degree.
F.
[0038] In addition to the preferred alkanoic acids (acetic or
propanoic), pure acetic acid (glacial acid), or other pure alkanoic
acid as identified above, and water will achieve the same results.
One may wish to adjust the concentrations of the ingredients
according to the type of hair being straightened, method of
application, duration of exposure per treatment, and number of
treatments anticipated before the desired hair curl relaxation is
achieved. For example, different concentrations may be used for
initial hair-straightening, hair-straightening maintenance,
relaxation of curl, and reduction of frizziness of hair produced
from humid weather. Also, different types of hair may require
different concentrations of alkanoic acids, e.g., African American
kinky hair may in some instances require concentrations of alkanoic
acids at about 10% or higher, while it is possible that Caucasian
curly hair can be straightened using a series of leave-in rinses at
concentrations as low as 0.25% alkanoic acid. Additionally, those
who wish simply reduction in frizziness or hair-straightening
maintenance may require a concentration between about 0.25% and
9.75% alkanoic acid. Furthermore, a lesser concentration may be
needed for leave-in rinse as compared with a rinse-out gel.
[0039] Various methods of applying the formulation to the hair are
contemplated. According to one aspect of the invention, the
formulation is provided in the form of a leave-in rinse. The rinse
is applied by submerging clean, damp hair into a freshly-made bath
of the solution for approximately 15 seconds to 60 seconds. The
hair is then towel dried, optionally treated with a styling gel,
and combed straight or smoothed back or around the head in a
straight configuration, and air-dried or dried by heat. Once dry,
the hair may be curled or smoothed by heat appliances (heat
rollers, wands, blow dry brushes, heat combs, etc.) into the
desired style. The rinsing procedure may be repeated daily, weekly
or periodically until the desired degree of straightness is
achieved. The rate of response to the treatments will depend upon
the amount of curl, the porosity of the hair from previous chemical
treatments, and the natural thickness of the cuticle. The more
porous the cuticle the more responsive the hair to the alkanoic
acid rinses. Hair that does not straighten when wet can be pulled
mechanically or assisted with heat rollers or gels after
treatment.
[0040] Continuous and unmonitored immersion may in some cases tend
to weaken the hair shaft. It is recommended that continuous use be
accompanied by the addition of conditioners, hot oil/cream
treatments, and the trimming of dried ends, as required, to
maintain shine and feel attributes. The distal ends of previously
dyed, permanently waved or straightened will respond more rapidly
to the alkanoic acid rinses hair, due to their increased porosity
(the result of more frequent exposure to chemicals and the sun,
etc.). A user may desire to trim or provide extra conditioning to
previously-treated hair.
[0041] The following examples will serve to further typify the
nature of the invention, but should not be construed as a
limitation on the scope thereof, which is defined solely by the
appended claims.
EXAMPLE 1
[0042]
2 Ingredients Weight % 10% acetic acid (aqueous) 97.9 XANTURAL
.RTM. gum powder (gelling agent) 1.7 Fragrance 0.4 100
[0043] This example uses about 88.1% water and 9.8% acetic acid.
The ingredients are combined in the form of a gel. The product may
also be formulated with glacial acetic acid (pure) and deionized
water to equal 10% acetic acid. This formulation is referred to as
a "wash out" composition as it is adapted to be left in the hair
for a period of time and then rinsed out.
[0044] According to one method of application, the formulation is
applied to wet, clean hair and combed through. The hair may be
pulled straight with curlers, clips or by tying or braiding the
hair. The formulation is left on the hair for from 30 minutes to 12
hours, allowing the formulation to dry on the hair if necessary,
depending on degree of straightness desired and original curl in
hair. The gel is then rinsed out and the hair optionally washed
with shampoo. The hair is optionally conditioned with hair
conditioning product(s) and styled, preferably with a heat
appliance, such as heat curlers, heat curling or flat wand. This
process may be repeated, as above, until the desired curl
relaxation is achieved. The hair may be treated periodically with
oil or mineral supplement conditioners to prevent dryness.
EXAMPLE 2
[0045]
3 Ingredients Weight % Deionized water 63.40 10% Acetic Acid
(aqueous) 20.00 XANTURAL .RTM. gum (gelling agent) 1.30
Methylsulfonyl Methane 15.00 (hair conditioner) Fragrance 0.20
Methyl Paraben (preservative) 0.05 Propyl Paraben (preservative)
0.05 100
[0046] Thus, this formulation in combination contains a total
concentration of acetic acid of about 2% w/w. The formulation is
referred to as a "leave in" formulation as it is intended to be
applied to the hair in gel form without subsequent rinsing.
[0047] According to one method of application, the formulation is
applied to wet, clean hair and combed through. The hair is set with
curlers or other styling aids and blown dry. The formulation is not
rinsed out. The hair will gradually straighten with repeated use.
The formulation also may be applied to dry hair as a spray
formulation to control frizz and as a setting agent between
shampoos.
EXAMPLE 3
[0048]
4 Ingredients Weight % Deionized water 77.15 10% Acetic Acid
(aqueous) 6.25 XANTURAL .RTM. gum (gelling agent) 1.30
Methylsulfonyl Methane 15.00 (hair conditioner) Fragrance 0.20
Methyl Paraben (preservative) 0.05 Propyl Paraben (preservative)
0.05 100.00
[0049] Thus, this formulation in combination contains a total
concentration of acetic acid of about 0.6% w/w. The product may
also be formulated with glacial acetic acid (pure) and deionized
water to equal a 10% acetic acid ingredient. This formulation is
designed to gradually straighten moderately curly hair, reduce
frizz, and prevent curling of straightened hair (e.g., as
maintenance). According to one method of application, the
formulation is applied to wet, clean hair and combed through. The
hair may be allowed to dry naturally, set with curlers or other
styling aids, or blown dry. The formulation is not rinsed out. The
hair will gradually straighten with repeated use or maintain
straightness achieved with previous treatment, particularly during
humid weather. The formulation also may be applied to dry hair as a
spray formulation to control frizz and as a setting agent between
shampoos.
EXAMPLE 4
[0050] The formulation of Example 1 was prepared as follows. 24.475
kg. of 10% acetic acid (aqueous) was weighed and transferred into a
colloid rill circulation tank. 100 gms. of fragrance were then
added to the mixing tank while agitating slowly. 425 gms. of
XANTURAL.RTM. 11K gum powder were added to the hopper of the
colloid mill circulation while the liquid was circulating to ensure
good wetting of the powder. After all the gum power was added, the
solution was circulated for 15-30 minutes or until the solution was
uniform. A sample was taken from the tank and the viscosity
measured with a Brookfield viscometer with an appropriate spindle.
The pH and density were measured, and the solution transferred to
the filler feed tank. The result is a bath of about 25 kg (approx.
55 lbs) of a formulation having the constituents as set forth above
in Example 1.
EXAMPLE 5
[0051] An African American female subject washed and towel dried
her hair. A formulation as in Example 1, above, but with a 15%
acetic acid solution (with a reduction in water to make up the
difference) was applied to a section of the subject's hair, and two
swatches were separated. One swatch of hair was wound on a curler;
another left without tension. After ten minutes, the swatches were
compared and the curled swatch was observed to be straighter. Both
swatches were then wound on curlers and left for 15 additional
minutes. The hair was then rinsed in warm water, washed with
shampoo, and treated with a washout conditioner. The hair swatches
were then dried and curled using household electric curlers. Both
swatches were straight in texture. The formulation was then applied
to the rest of the subject's hair, and left for 15 minutes, as
curlers were used to pull the hair straight. The result was that
the subject's hair was observed to be substantially straighter.
EXAMPLE 6
[0052] A mulatto female subject having kinky hair washed her hair,
and a 15% acetic acid gel (as in Example 5) was applied to her hair
as wet. Half of the subject's hair was set on large rollers, and
the subject sat with her hair under a medium-heat hair dryer for 20
minutes. The remaining half of the subject's hair was worked by
hand-pulling and continuous combing, then twisted into braids.
After total exposure time of 1 hour and 5 minutes, the hair was
rinsed, shampooed and conditioned. The hair was reset and dried
under hood. The kinky texture was replaced by 1/2 inch to 2-inch
waves over all treated areas.
EXAMPLE 7
[0053] Two mulatto female subjects having kinky hair submitted to
treatment with an 18% acetic acid gel formulation. This formulation
contained about 50.3% water, 18% acetic acid, 1.7% XANTURAL.RTM.
gum, and 30% of a fragrance/odor masker. The appearance of the hair
pre-treatment is shown in FIGS. 1A and 2A, respectively. The
subjects' hair was washed, and the wet, clean hair was treated with
the formulation. The treated hair was set in curlers for one hour,
and the hair was then blown dry using a hair brush. The result was
that the subjects' hair was observed to be substantially straighter
as shown in FIGS. 1B and 2B.
EXAMPLE 8
[0054] A Caucasian (Eastern European) subject having curly hair as
shown in FIG. 3A was treated with a two minute bath of diluted 10%
acetic acid applied to the hair. The subject placed dry hair in the
bath consisting of 10% acetic acid (aqueous) and 1.5 gallons of
water. Hair was left in the bath for two minutes then towel-dried.
Hair was set in large curlers and the subject was placed under a
bonnet hair dryer until the hair was dry. This method resulted in a
hair style that was full and smooth. Results are shown in FIG.
3B.
EXAMPLE 9
[0055] A lock of hair from a middle-aged African American woman
which had never been treated with permanent waving or straightening
chemicals or dyes was given five treatments of a formulation having
a 5% acetic acid solution in a 1/5 gallon bath of water. The lock
was rinsed her hair two to three times weekly, and after five
treatments, the desired results were achieved. The hair had begun
to lose its curl on its own after the first three treatments, and
mechanical assistance was applied thereafter. This was done with a
thick styling gel (4th treatment) and with scotch tape (5th
treatment). The "before" and "after" results of this test are shown
in FIGS. 4A and 4B.
EXAMPLE 10
[0056] Three separate tests were conducted with different
percentages of water. In particular, tests were conducted to show
the results obtained from using acetic acid in 1% water (.about.99%
acetic acid), 5% water (.about.95% acetic acid), and 95% water
(.about.5% acetic acid). For these tests, identical locks of hair
were cut from the same Caucasian female and photographed. The
swatches before treatment are shown in FIGS. 5A, 5B, and 5C. Three
solutions of water and acetic acid were prepared (having 1%, 5% and
95% water). The locks were submerged for 15 minutes in the separate
solutions, e.g., one lock for each solution. Each lock was then
lifted from its solution, permitted to dry, and photographed. The
results are shown in FIGS. 6A, 6B, and 6C.
[0057] As can be seen, a greater hair straightening effect was
achieved with 95% water as compared with 5% water. The 1% water
solution did not produce any apparent hair straightening effect for
this single treatment (FIG. 6A). It was determined that the
hair-straightening effect was greater for the 95% water solution as
compared with the 5% water solution in this instance.
EXAMPLE 11
[0058] An African American (mulatto) subject provided hair swatches
from the right and left side of the head. The swatch from the right
side received a formulation having an equal mixture of 12% acetic
acid/12% propionic acid for ten minutes. The left side was treated
with 12% propionic acid only for ten minutes. Hair swatches were
then rinsed and shampooed. Swatches were then blow-dried and set
with electric heat curlers. Both formulations resulted in the
elimination of tight curls, leaving hair wavy.
EXAMPLE 12
[0059] A Caucasian subject having curly, red hair was treated with
application to the hair of a formulation having a 12%, 50/50
aqueous mixture of propionic and acetic acid. The formulation was
applied to a frontal swatch of hair for ten minutes. No curlers
were necessary as hair combed straight. Hair was then rinsed,
shampooed, blow-dried, and heat-curled on household rollers. Result
was a loose wave.
EXAMPLE 13
[0060] A Caucasian subject having curly hair was treated with
application of a 9.75% acetic acid gel to the hair. The hair was
combed into a bun, covered with a shower cap, and left overnight.
Hair was washed and dried the following morning. Hair was
significantly straighter. Hair was then set on heat rollers. Result
was a straight configuration with slight wave properties in
response to roller setting.
EXAMPLE 14
[0061] A Caucasian subject with hair previously straightened by
weekly baths of 5% acetic acid used the 2% acetic acid gel
formulation (as in Example 3 above) after each hair washing. Result
was improved texture (softness and shine) and maintenance of a
straight shaft and straight new growth.
EXAMPLE 15
[0062] The hair of a Caucasian female with chemically dyed (brown),
naturally curly, gray hair, was bathed in a 5% acetic acid
solution/1.5 gallon water bath (equally a 0.25% W/W concentration
of acetic acid) for 20 seconds and allowed to dry as a leave-on
rinse bi-weekly for a period of 12 weeks for a total of 24
treatments. After two applications her hair demonstrated improved
shine and manageability after heat setting with rollers. After four
applications, heat-set curls remained in place at humidity levels
of 80%. After six applications, her hair, formerly "frizzie" after
washing, dried straight and heat-set curls remained in place at
100% humidity levels. After twelve applications, the subject's hair
was examined and compared to samples taken prior to the series of
treatments. The treated shaft was visibly straighter. Acetic acid
baths continued at a lower acetic acid concentration of 80:1
through week 12 and bi-weekly hot oil treatments were added.
Reexamination of sample specimens during week 13 indicated that the
shafts had sufficient moisture and shine without compromising
straightness or heat curl retention. The subject discontinued
acetic bath treatments after 12 weeks and indicated that no more
were necessary as her hair remained easy to style, without
frizziness on humid days despite frequent shampooing.
EXAMPLE 16
[0063] A Caucasian male with short, dark blond, naturally curly
hair, was treated with one submersion in a 0.25% acetic acid bath.
The hair was towel-dried and the rinse allowed to air dry on the
hair. Observation when dry indicated that approximately 70% of the
natural curl had been eliminated. The subject did not seek
re-treatment indicating he was happy with the results. Eight weeks
later, the subject reported that the hair was still surprisingly
"manageable."
EXAMPLE 17
[0064] Two sets of severed locks of chemically-straightened hair
(exhibiting some reversion to natural curl) from an
African-American female subject were submerged for 15 seconds in a
5% acetic acid aqueous solution and allowed to remain on the hair
for 30 minutes. A similar set of locks was rinsed in pure tap water
as a control. Both sets of locks were then shampooed, conditioned,
rinsed with water, combed out and allowed to air dry. The treated
locks exhibited less reversion and curling than did the control
locks.
[0065] Mechanism of Action. The formulations and methods described
herein are believed to change the charge on the carboxylic amino
acids within keratin causing both the loss of hydrogen and ionic
bonding properties and secondary to these events, the
disassociation of some of the disulfide bridges from the helix
structure itself which are a principle force in the maintenance of
natural curl. With the loss of hydrogen and ionic bonding, the
keratin is partially denatured. The shaft becomes less sensitive to
external moisture and more sensitive to heat-induced curling. With
the partial loss of secondary and tertiary structure involving
disulfide bridges, naturally curly hair loses its wavyness.
[0066] While not wishing to be bound by any one theory, it is
believed that the present formulations are capable altering the
secondary structure of keratin's polypeptide chain by reacting with
the carboxylic acids and, in turn, the amine bases of this protein.
In this reaction, the amino acids, glutamic acid and aspartic acid,
are protonated with their electron charge changing from negative to
neutral/positive. This reaction is believed to result in the
following denaturing events:
[0067] 1. Protonation of glutamic acid and aspartic acid causes
these amino acids to turn inward on themselves or "inside out",
changing at these locations the hydrogen bonding distances and
strength.
[0068] 2. Salt bridges are also cleaved with the change in aspartic
and glutamic acid electron charge. As is known, these
negatively-charged amino acids form ionic bonds, also know as
salt-bridges, with arginine and lysine which are positively
charged. When the former lose their charge the ionic bonds cleave
and the keratin is further denatured.
[0069] 3. Disulfide bonds "let go", it is thought, as protonation
deconfigures the protein's secondary structure. These bonds are
still in place but no longer anchored on the chain.
[0070] Once a percentage of the ionic, hydrogen and cysteine bonds
are cleaved by repeated rinsing with the weak alkanoic acid aqueous
solutions, naturally-curly hair will remain straight with improved
response to heat curling and reduced response to humidity.
* * * * *