U.S. patent application number 10/338700 was filed with the patent office on 2003-07-24 for artificial tanning compositions comprising sorghum extracts.
Invention is credited to Candau, Didier, Elguidj, Irene, Seyler, Nathalie.
Application Number | 20030138387 10/338700 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 27248848 |
Filed Date | 2003-07-24 |
United States Patent
Application |
20030138387 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Seyler, Nathalie ; et
al. |
July 24, 2003 |
Artificial tanning compositions comprising sorghum extracts
Abstract
Topically applicable, cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning
compositions devoid of certain flavylium salts contain an effective
artificial tanning amount of at least one sorghum extract
formulated into a topically applicable,
cosmetically/dermatologically acceptable vehicle therefor.
Inventors: |
Seyler, Nathalie;
(Maisons-Alfort, FR) ; Elguidj, Irene; (Neuilly,
FR) ; Candau, Didier; (Bievres, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
BURNS, DOANE, SWECKER & MATHIS, L.L.P.
P.O. Box 1404
Alexandria
VA
22313-1404
US
|
Family ID: |
27248848 |
Appl. No.: |
10/338700 |
Filed: |
January 9, 2003 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/59 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/9794 20170801;
A61K 8/9728 20170801; A61K 8/4973 20130101; A61Q 19/04
20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/59 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/42 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jan 10, 2002 |
FR |
02/00251 |
Jan 10, 2002 |
FR |
02/00252 |
Jan 10, 2002 |
FR |
02/00253 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A topically applicable, cosmetic/dermatological artificial
tanning composition, comprising an effective artificial tanning
amount of at least one sorghum extract formulated into a topically
applicable, cosmetically/dermatologically acceptable vehicle
therefor, said composition being devoid of any flavylium salt that
is unsubstituted at position 3 thereof, but which is otherwise
substituted with at least one hydroxyl group or alkoxy radical.
2. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 1, comprising an amount of said at least one
sorghum extract which is effective for obtaining, 30 minutes after
application to a fair skin at a rate of 2 mg/cm.sup.2, a darkening
defined in the (L*, a*, b*) calorimetric measuring system by a
.DELTA.L* ranging from -0.5 to -20.
3. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 2, said .DELTA.L* ranging from -0.5 to -15.
4. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 1, comprising an amount of said at least one
sorghum extract which is effective for obtaining, 30 minutes after
application to a fair skin at a rate of 2 mg/cm.sup.2, a coloration
defined in the (L*, a*, b*) calorimetric system by a ratio
.DELTA.a*/.DELTA.b* ranging from 0.5 to 3.
5. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 4, said ratio .DELTA.a*/.DELTA.b* ranging from 0.8
to 2.
6. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 1, said at least one sorghum extract being
obtained from the whole plant, the stems, the seeds or the leaves
of the genus Sorghum, in the fresh or dry state.
7. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 6, the species of Sorghum being selected from
among Sorghum bicolor, Sorghum caudatum, Sorghum nervosum, Sorghum
durra, Sorghum vulgare and the Sorghum species in association with
Colletotrichum graminicola.
8. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 6, said at least one sorghum extract being
obtained from the whole plant, the stems, the seeds or the leaves
of Sorghum vulgare.
9. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 6, said at least one sorghum extract being
obtained by a process comprising: (a) an extraction of the whole
plant, the stems, the seeds or the leaves of Sorghum in an aqueous
medium which may also contain at least one organic solvent; (b) a
maceration in an alkaline medium having a pH on the order of 11-12;
and (c) optionally, a precipitation from the maceration medium by
addition of an acid to attain a pH on the order of 1-2.
10. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 1, in which the concentration of sorghum extract
ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight
thereof.
11. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 1, further comprising at least one mono- or
polycarbonyl-containing artificial/self-tanning agent.
12. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 11, said at least one mono- or
polycarbonyl-containing artificial/self-tanning agent comprising
isatin, alloxan, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde,
glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, a pyrazoline-4,5-dione derivative,
dihydroxyacetone (DHA), and/or a 4,4-dihydroxypyrazoline-5-one
derivative, optionally combined with a direct dye or an indole
derivative.
13. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 12, said at least one artificial/self-tanning
agent comprising dihydroxyacetone (DHA).
14. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 11, in which the at least one
artificial/self-tanning agent is present in a proportion ranging
from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
15. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 1, further comprising at least one UV radiation
screening agent.
16. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 15, said at least one UV radiation screening agent
comprising an organic UV screening agent or an inorganic UV
radiation screening agent.
17. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 16, comprising at least one organic UV screening
agent that is water-soluble, fat-soluble or insoluble in a usual
cosmetic solvent.
18. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 17, said at least one organic UV screening agent
comprising an anthranilate; a cinnamic derivative; a
dibenzoylmethane derivative; a salicylic derivative; a camphor
derivative; a triazine derivative; a benzophenone derivative; a
.beta.,.beta.'-diphenylacrylate derivative; a benzotriazole
derivative; a benzimidazole derivative; an imidazoline; a
bis-benzoazolyl derivative; a p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA)
derivative; a methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivative;
a screening polymer and a screening silicone; a dimer derived from
.alpha.-alkylstyrene; a 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative, and
mixtures thereof.
19. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 17, said at least one organic UV radiation
screening agent comprising: Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl
Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor
Sulfonic, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5,
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Benzimidazilate, Anisotriazine,
Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
2,4,6-Tris(diisobutyl 4 '-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triaz- ine,
Methylenebis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Drometrizole
Trisiloxane, 1,1
-Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, and
mixtures thereof.
20. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 16, comprising at least one inorganic UV radiation
screening agent selected from among pigments or nanopigments of
metal oxides which are coated or noncoated.
21. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 20, said at least one inorganic UV radiation
screening agent comprising nanopigments of titanium, iron, zinc,
zirconium or cerium oxide, which are coated or uncoated.
22. The cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 15, in which said at least one UV radiation
screening agent is present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 15%
by weight relative to the total weight thereof.
23. A regime or regimen for the artificial tanning of human skin,
comprising topically applying thereon a thus effective amount of
the cosmetic/dermatological artificial tanning composition as
defined by claim 1.
Description
CROSS-REFERENCE TO PRIORITY/PROVISIONAL APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims priority under 35 U.S.C. .sctn. 119
of FR-02/00251, FR-02/00252 and FR-02/00253, each filed Jan. 10,
2002, and of provisional applications Serial Nos. 60/350,343,
60/350,356 and 60/350,357, each filed Jan. 24, 2002, each of which
is hereby expressly incorporated by reference. This application is
also a continuation of said '343, '356 and '357 provisionals.
CROSS-REFERENCE TO COMPANION APPLICATION
[0002] Copending application Ser. No. ______ [Attorney Docket No.
016800-477], filed concurrently herewith and assigned to the
assignee hereof.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0003] 1. Technical Field of the Invention
[0004] The present invention relates to cosmetic and/or
dermatological compositions intended for artificially coloring the
skin, characterized in that they comprise, in a cosmetically
acceptable vehicle, at least one sorghum extract; the said
compositions not containing a flavylium salt which is unsubstituted
in position 3 and which is substituted with at least one hydroxyl
or alkoxy radical.
[0005] The invention also relates to its uses for the manufacture
of cosmetic or dermatological compositions for coloring the
skin.
[0006] 2. Description of the Prior Art
[0007] Nowadays, it is important to look healthy and a tanned skin
is always a sign of good health. However, a natural tan is not
always desirable since it requires prolonged exposure to UV
radiation, in particular to UV-A radiation which causes the tanning
of the skin but, however, is liable to induce an adverse change
therein, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or of skin
which is continually exposed to solar radiation. It is thus
desirable to find an alternative to a natural tan which is
compatible with the requirements of such skin types.
[0008] Most of the cosmetic products intended for artificially
tanning the skin are based on carbonyl derivatives which, by
interacting with the amino acids in the skin, allow the formation
of colored products.
[0009] To this end, it is known that dihydroxy-acetone, or DHA, is
a particularly advantageous product which is commonly used in
cosmetics as an agent for artificially tanning the skin; when
applied to the skin, in particular to the face, it gives a tanning
or bronzing effect which is similar in appearance to that which may
result from prolonged exposure to sunlight (a natural tan) or under
a UV lamp.
[0010] A drawback of DHA is the length of time the coloration takes
to develop: specifically, several hours (3 to 5 hours in general)
are required for the coloration to be revealed. There is thus an
increasing demand for fast-acting self-tanning products which give
a coloration closer to that of a natural tan.
[0011] Thus, efforts are continually being made to find novel
compounds and novel compositions which can give the skin an
artificial coloration close to that of a natural tan in a simple,
effective, fast and risk-free manner.
[0012] Sorghum extracts have been known for a long time as food
colorants. They give a reddish brown color and have in their
composition flavonoids, anthocyanidins and tannins.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0013] Now, after considerable research conducted in the field of
artificial coloring of the skin, the Applicant has discovered that
the use as skin-coloring agent of at least one sorghum extract, in
the absence of a flavylium salt which is unsubstituted in position
3 and which is substituted with at least one hydroxyl or alkoxy
radical, makes it possible to give the skin, immediately after
applying the product to it, an artificial coloration close to that
of a natural tan.
[0014] The subject of the present invention is therefore a novel
cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, intended for
artificially coloring the skin close to a natural tan,
characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable
vehicle, at least one sorghum extract; the said composition not
containing a flavylium salt which is unsubstituted in position 3
and which is substituted with at least one hydroxyl or alkoxy
radical.
[0015] A subject of the present invention is also the novel use of
at least one sorghum extract in a cosmetic composition not
containing a flavylium salt which is unsubstituted in position 3
and which is substituted with at least one hydroxyl or alkoxy
radical, with the aim of giving the skin an artificial coloration
close to that of a natural tan.
[0016] A subject of the present invention is also a process for
giving the skin an artificial coloration close to that of a natural
tan, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin an
effective amount of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
[0017] The compositions and uses in accordance with the invention
make it possible to obtain an artificial coloration close to that
of a natural tan in a short space of time. Thus, an immediate
coloration is obtained, which allows the application to be
visualized and consequently allows more uniform spreading of the
composition on the skin and thus of the resulting coloration.
Moreover, the artificial coloration obtained on the skin according
to the invention is extremely close to that of a natural tan.
[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression
"composition intended for artificially coloring the skin" will be
understood to mean a formulation with a particular affinity for the
skin which allows it to give the skin a long-lasting coloration,
which is non-covering (that is to say which does not have a
tendency to opacify the skin) and which is not removed either with
water or with a solvent, and which withstands both rubbing and
washing with a solution containing surfactants. Such a long-lasting
coloration is thus distinguished from the superficial and transient
coloration provided, for example, by a make-up product.
[0019] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present
invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description
which follows.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF BEST MODE AND SPECIFIC/PREFERRED
EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION
[0020] The compositions in accordance with the present invention
make it possible to obtain, 30 minutes after application to a fair
skin at a rate of 2 mg/cm.sup.2, a darkening characterized in the
(L*, a*, b*) calorimetric measuring system by a .DELTA.L* ranging
from -0.5 to -20. Preferably, .DELTA.L* will range from -0.5 to
-15.
[0021] The compositions in accordance with the present invention
give, 30 minutes after application to a fair skin at a rate of 2
mg/cm.sup.2, a coloration defined in the (L*, a*, b*) calorimetric
measuring system by a ratio .DELTA.a*/.DELTA.b* ranging from 0.5 to
3 and even more particularly ranging from 0.8 to 2.
[0022] According to the present invention, the term "fair skin"
means an untanned skin whose calorimetric characteristics may be
defined by its ITA angle as defined in the publication by A.
Chardon et al., "Skin Color Typology and Suntanning Pathways"
presented at the 16th IFSCC congress, Oct. 8-10, 1990, New York,
and in Int. J. Cosm. Sci. 13 191-208 (1991). The fair skins as
defined in this classification have an ITA angle of between 35 and
55.
[0023] In the (L*, a*, b*) calorimetric measuring system: L*
represents the luminance or clarity, a* represents the red-green
axis (-a*=green, +a*=red) and b* represents the yellow-blue axis
(-b*=blue, +b*=yellow). Thus, a* and b* express the shade of the
skin. .DELTA.L* reflects the darkening of the color: the more
negative the .DELTA.L*, the darker the color, with:
.DELTA.L*=L* uncolored skin-L* colored skin.
[0024] The ratio .DELTA.a*/.DELTA.b* reflects the red/yellow
balance and thus the shade, with:
.DELTA.a*=a* uncolored skin-a* colored skin
.DELTA.b*=b* uncolored skin-b* colored skin.
[0025] The sorghum extracts in accordance with the invention are
obtained from the whole plant, the stems, the seeds or the leaves
of the genus Sorghum. The preferred species of sorghum are chosen
from Sorghum bicolor, Sorghum caudatum, Sorghum nervosum, Sorghum
durra, Sorghum vulgare and the Sorghum species in association with
Colletotrichum graminicola.
[0026] The sorghum extracts in accordance with the invention are
more particularly the extracts of Sorghum vulgare such as the
commercial product Sorghum Extract Absorbance>30 sold by Premier
Specialties.
[0027] The sorghum extracts in accordance with the invention are
obtained from the extraction of the whole plant or of the plant
parts cited above which may be in the fresh state or in the dry
state.
[0028] The sorghum extract in accordance with the invention may be
obtained by a process comprising the following steps:
[0029] (a) an extraction of the whole plant, the stems, the seeds
or the leaves of the genus Sorghum in an aqueous medium which may
also contain at least one organic solvent;
[0030] (b) a maceration in an alkaline medium having a pH on the
order of 11-12;
[0031] (c) optionally a precipitation from the maceration medium by
addition of an acid so as to reach a pH on the order of 1-2.
[0032] The extraction may be carried out in an acidic medium as
described in the Chinese patents CN 1035512 C and CN 1064284A and
in the publication by M KOUDA-BONAFOS, E CZYZEWSKA, M NACRO and A C
OEHLSCHLAGER. "Isolation of apigenin from leaf sheets of Sorghum
caudatum" Journal of Chemical Ecology, Vol. 20, No. 8, p. 2123-2125
(1995).
[0033] It may also be carried out in an alkaline medium followed by
precipitation in an acidic medium as described in the Chinese
patent CN 1065079A and in the publication by J P REY, J L POUSSET,
J LEVESQUE and P WANTY. "Isolation and composition of a natural dye
from the stems of sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench subsp. Americanum
caudatum" Cereal Chem. Vol. 70(6), p. 759-760 (1993).
[0034] The extraction may also be carried out in an organic medium
as described in the publications by J WANG "Studies on extraction
of pigment from sorghum husks and its properties" Huaxue Shijie,
Vol. 39 (4), p. 211-213 (1998) and by A SEREME, M KOUDA-BONAFOS and
M NACRO "Phenolic compounds in Sorghum caudatum tissues during
plant development" Biomass and Bioenergy Vol. 4(1), p. 69-71
(1993).
[0035] The organic solvents used for the extraction may be alcohols
such as ethanol, methanol, normal primary propyl alcohol, isopropyl
alcohol, normal primary butyl alcohol, propylene glycol and
glycerol for example. The organic solvents may also be represented
by diethyl ether, acetone, ethyl methyl ketone, ethyl acetate for
example. The organic solvents used may also be supercritical fluids
or fluorinated solvents such as dodecafluoropentane,
tetradecafluorohexane, perfluorinated N-methylmorpholine and
methoxynonafluorobutane for example.
[0036] Step (b) of maceration in an alkaline medium may be carried
out for a period of 15-25 days at a temperature of 60-80.degree. C.
in a 0.1N sodium hydroxide solution having a pH on the order of
11-12.
[0037] Step (c) of precipitation by addition of acid may be carried
out, for example, with ION hydrochloric acid so as to reach a pH on
the order of 1-2. The aqueous suspension thus obtained is then
filtered in order to recover the precipitate which is then
dried.
[0038] Steps (b) and (c) may be repeated several times.
[0039] The concentration of sorghum extract in accordance with the
invention preferably varies from 0.0001% to 10%, and still more
preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[0040] According to a particular form, the compositions according
to the invention may additionally contain mono- or
polycarbonyl-containing self-tanning agents.
[0041] The mono- or polycarbonyl-containing self-tanning agents are
chosen, for example, from isatin, alloxan, ninhydrin,
glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose,
pyrazoline-4,5-dione derivatives as described in patent application
FR-2,466,492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA),
4,4-dihydroxypyrazoline-5-one derivatives as described in patent
application EP-903,342, it being possible for these self-tanning
agents to be combined or otherwise with direct dyes or indole
derivatives.
[0042] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, dihydroxyacetone
(DHA) will be more particularly used.
[0043] The mono- or polycarbonyl-containing self-tanning agents are
generally present in the compositions according to the invention in
proportions ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.2% to 8% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] According to a particular form, the compositions of the
invention may additionally contain one or more ultraviolet
radiation screening agents.
[0045] The ultraviolet radiation screening agents may be chosen
from organic UV screening agents or inorganic UV radiation
screening agents.
[0046] The organic UV screening agents in accordance with the
invention may be water-soluble, fat-soluble or insoluble in the
customary cosmetic solvents. They are chosen in particular from
anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives;
salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives
such as those disclosed in patent applications U.S. Pat. No.
4,367,390, EP-863,145, EP-517,104, EP-570,838, EP-796,851,
EP-775,698, EP-878,469 and EP-933,376; benzophenone derivatives in
particular those described in applications EP-A-1,046,391 and
DE-10,012,408; benzalmalonate derivatives;
.beta.,.beta.'-diphenylacr- ylate derivatives; benzotriazole
derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines;
bis-benzoazolyl derivatives such as those disclosed in patents
EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA)
derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives
as disclosed in patent applications U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071,
5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-19,726,184 and EP-893,119; screening
polymers and screening silicones such as those disclosed in
particular in patent application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from
.alpha.-alkylstyrene, such as those disclosed in patent application
DE-19,855,649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives such as those
disclosed in patent applications EP-0,967,200, DE-19,755,649,
EP-1,333,981 and mixtures thereof.
[0047] As examples of organic screening agents, mention may be made
of those indicated below under their INCI name:
[0048] Para-Aminobenzoic Acid Derivatives:
[0049] PABA,
[0050] Ethyl PABA,
[0051] Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,
[0052] Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the
trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP,
[0053] Glyceryl PABA,
[0054] PEG-25 PABA sold under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by
BASF,
[0055] Salicylic Derivatives:
[0056] Homosalate sold under the trademark "Eusolex HMS" by RONA/EM
Industries,
[0057] Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan
OS" by Haarmann and Reimer,
[0058] Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate sold under the trademark
"Dipsal" by Scher,
[0059] TEA Salicylate, sold under the name "Neo Heliopan TS" by
Haarmann and Reimer,
[0060] Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives:
[0061] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the
trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann La Roche,
[0062] Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane,
[0063] Cinnamic Derivatives:
[0064] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the
trademark "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann La Roche,
[0065] Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,
[0066] Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate sold under the trademark "Neo
Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer,
[0067] Cinoxate,
[0068] DEA Methoxycinnamate,
[0069] Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,
[0070] Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate
[0071] .beta.,.beta.'-Diphenylacrylate Derivatives:
[0072] Octocrylene sold in particular under the trademark "Uvinul
N539" by BASF,
[0073] Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trademark "Uvinul
N35" by BASF,
[0074] Benzophenone Derivatives:
[0075] Benzophenone-1 sold under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by
BASF,
[0076] Benzophenone-2 sold under the trademark "Uvinul D50" by
BASF,
[0077] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trademark
"Uvinul M40" by BASF,
[0078] Benzophenone-4 sold under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by
BASF,
[0079] Benzophenone-5,
[0080] Benzophenone-6 sold under the trademark "Helisorb 11" by
Norquay,
[0081] Benzophenone-8 sold under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24"
by American Cyanamid,
[0082] Benzophenone-9 sold under the trademark "Uvinul DS-49" by
BASF,
[0083] Benzophenone-12
[0084] Benzylidenecamphor Derivatives:
[0085] 3-Benzylidenecamphor manufactured under the trademark
"Mexoryl SD" by Chimex,
[0086] 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the trademark "Eusolex
6300" by Merck,
[0087] Benzylidenecamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the
trademark "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex,
[0088] Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the
trademark "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex,
[0089] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under
the trademark "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex,
[0090] Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under
the trademark "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex,
[0091] Phenylbenzimidazole Derivatives:
[0092] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under
the trademark "Eusolex 232" by Merck,
[0093] Benzimidazilate sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP"
by Haarmann and Reimer,
[0094] Triazine Derivatives:
[0095] Anisotriazine sold under the trademark "Tinosorb S" by Ciba
Geigy,
[0096] Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trademark
"Uvinul T150" by BASF,
[0097] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trademark
"Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V,
[0098] 2,4,6-Tris(diisobutyl
4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
[0099] Phenylbenzotriazole Derivatives:
[0100] Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole"
by Rhodia Chimie,
[0101] Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in
solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100" by Fairmount
Chemical or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion under the
trademark "Tinosorb M" by Ciba Specialty Chemicals,
[0102] Anthranilic Derivatives:
[0103] Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan
MA" by Haarmann and Reimer,
[0104] Imidazoline Derivatives:
[0105] Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline
Propionate,
[0106] Benzalmalonate Derivatives:
[0107] Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functional
groups sold under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann La
Roche
[0108] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene Derivatives:
[0109] 1,1 -Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenyl-butadiene
and mixtures thereof.
[0110] The organic UV screening agents most particularly preferred
are chosen from the following compounds:
[0111] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
[0112] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
[0113] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,
[0114] Octocrylene,
[0115] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
[0116] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic,
[0117] Benzophenone-3,
[0118] Benzophenone-4,
[0119] Benzophenone-5,
[0120] 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor,
[0121] Benzimidazilate,
[0122] Anisotriazine,
[0123] Ethylhexyl Triazone,
[0124] Diethylhexyl Butamide Triazone,
[0125] Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,
1,1-Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenyl-butadiene
[0126] Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0127] The inorganic screening agents are generally pigments or
alternatively nanopigments (average size of the primary particles:
generally between 5 nm and 100 nm and preferably between 10 nm and
50 nm) of metal oxides which are coated or uncoated, such as, for
example, nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized
in rutile and/or anatase form), of iron oxide, of zinc oxide, of
zirconium oxide or of cerium oxide, which are all UV stabilizers
that are well known per se. Conventional coating agents are,
moreover, alumina and/or aluminum stearate. Such coated or uncoated
metal oxide nanopigments are disclosed in particular in patent
applications EP-A-0,518,772 and EP-A-0,518,773.
[0128] The radiation screening agents in accordance with the
invention are generally present in the compositions according to
the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably
ranging from 0.2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
[0129] The compositions in accordance with the present invention
may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen in
particular from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or
nonionic thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, anti-free-radical
agents, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones,
.alpha.-hydroxy acids, insect repellents, antifoams, moisturizers,
vitamins, fragrances, preserving agents, surfactants, fillers,
polymers, propellants, basifying or acidifying agents, coloring
agents, or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic or
dermatological field, in particular for manufacturing antisun
compositions in the form of emulsions.
[0130] The fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax or
mixtures thereof. The expression wax is understood to mean a
compound which is solid or substantially solid at room temperature,
and whose melting point is generally greater than 35.degree. C.
[0131] As oils, mention may be made of mineral oils (paraffin);
vegetable oils (sweet almond, macadamia, blackcurrant seed or
jojoba oil); synthetic oils such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols,
fatty acids or esters (such as benzoate of C.sub.12-C.sub.15
alcohols which is sold under the trademark "Finsolv TN" by Finetex,
octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides including those
of capric/caprylic acids), oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty
esters and ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone,
polydimethylsiloxanes, or PDMS) or fluoro oils, polyalkylenes.
[0132] As waxy compounds, mention may be made of paraffin, carnauba
wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil.
[0133] Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower
alcohols and polyols.
[0134] The latter may be chosen from glycols and glycol ethers such
as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol butylene glycol, dipropylene
glycol or diethylene glycol.
[0135] The thickeners may be chosen in particular from crosslinked
polyacrylic acids, modified or unmodified guar gums and celluloses
such as hydroxypropylated guar gum, methylhydroxyethylcellulose and
hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.
[0136] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care
to select the abovementioned optional additional compound(s) and/or
the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties
intrinsically associated with the use of the compounds of the
flavylium salt type in accordance with the invention are not, or
are not substantially, adversely affected by the addition(s)
envisaged.
[0137] The compositions according to the invention may be prepared
according to techniques well known to a person skilled in the art,
in particular those intended for the preparation of emulsions of
the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type.
[0138] This composition may be provided in particular in the form
of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) such as
a cream, a milk, or in the form of a gel or a cream-gel, in the
form of a lotion, a powder, a solid stick and may be optionally
packaged as an aerosol and may be provided in the form of a mousse
or a spray.
[0139] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are
provided in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil
emulsion.
[0140] When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of this emulsion
may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to
known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13,
238 (1965), FR-2,315,991 and FR-2,416,008).
[0141] Concrete but in no way limiting examples illustrating the
invention will now be given.
EXAMPLE 1
[0142] This example is intended to show, firstly, the intensity of
the coloration obtained with a sorghum extract in accordance with
the present invention and the speed at which this coloration
develops compared with a composition containing DHA as
skin-coloring agent.
[0143] This example is intended to show, secondly, that the
coloration obtained with a sorghum extract in accordance with the
present invention is close to that of a natural tanning of the
skin.
[0144] The Applicant prepared the following compositions (the
quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight with respect to
the total weight of the composition):
[0145] Composition A.sub.1 (not According to the Invention):
1 Polydimethyl/methyl siloxane POE/POP 10 g (396/4) (EO/PO 18/18)
at 10% D5 Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 12.5 g Mixture of natural
tocopherols/soybean oil 0.1 g Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) 4 g Propylene
glycol 15 g Preservatives qs Demineralized water qs 100 g
[0146] Composition B.sub.1 (Invention):
2 Polydimethyl/methyl siloxane POE/POP 10 g (396/4) (EO/PO 18/18)
at 10% D5 Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 12.5 g Mixture of natural
tocopherols/soybean oil 0.1 g Propylene glycol 15 g Extract of
Sorghum vulgare (Sorghum Extract 0.7 g Absorbance >30 from
Premier Specialties) Preservatives qs Demineralized water qs 100
g
[0147] Protocol for Evaluation:
[0148] Composition A.sub.1 and B.sub.1 were applied at the rate of
2 mg/cm.sup.2 to an area of 2.times.2 cm.sup.2 delimited on the
back of the forearm of which the skin color, characterized by the
ITA angle, is between 35 and 55.
[0149] The following series of colorimetric measurements were taken
using a Minolta CM-508d spectrocolorimeter:
[0150] 1) before applying the composition,
[0151] 2) 30 minutes after application.
[0152] The results are expressed in the (L*, a*, b*) system in
which L* represents the luminance, a* represents the red-green axis
(-a*=green, +a*=red) and b* represents the yellow-blue axis
(-b*=blue, +b*=yellow). Thus, a* and b* express the shade of the
skin.
[0153] To evaluate the intensity of the coloration, the important
value is the .DELTA.L* which reflects the darkening of the color:
the more negative the .DELTA.L*, the darker the color, with:
.DELTA.L*=L* uncolored skin-L* colored skin.
[0154] For the shade of the coloration obtained, the important
value is the ratio .DELTA.a*/.DELTA.b* which reflects the
red/yellow balance and thus the shade, with:
.DELTA.a*=a* uncolored skin-a* colored skin
.DELTA.b*=b* uncolored skin-b* colored skin
[0155]
3 TABLE (I) Composition A.sub.1 Composition B.sub.1 Composition
B.sub.1 (comparative) (invention) (invention) .DELTA.L* .DELTA.L*
.DELTA.a*/.DELTA.b* T = 30 minutes -0.4 -5.6 2.7
[0156] It is thus found that 30 minutes after application,
composition B.sub.1 containing DHA and the coloring plant extract
makes it possible to obtain a darkening which is much more intense
than that obtained with composition A.sub.1 containing only
DHA.
[0157] Composition B.sub.1 containing DHA and the coloring plant
extract also makes it possible to obtain a shade close to a natural
tan.
EXAMPLE 2
[0158] The procedure is carried out under the same conditions as in
Example 1.
[0159] Composition A.sub.1 (not According to the Invention):
4 Polydimethyl/methyl siloxane POE/POP 10 g (396/4) (EO/PO 18/18)
at 10% D5 Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 12.5 g Mixture of natural
tocopherols/soybean oil 0.1 g Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) 4 g Propylene
glycol 15 g Preservatives qs Demineralized water qs 100 g
[0160] Composition B.sub.2 (Invention):
5 Polydimethyl/methyl siloxane POE/POP 10 g (396/4) (EO/PO 18/18)
at 10% D5 Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 12.5 g Mixture of natural
tocopherols/soybean oil 0.1 g Propylene glycol 15 g Extract of
Sorghum vulgare (Sorghum Extract 0.7 g Absorbance >30 from
Premier Specialties) Dihydroxyacetone 4 g Preservatives qs
Demineralized water qs 100 g
[0161] The results obtained are collated in table (II) below:
6 TABLE (II) Composition A.sub.2 Composition B.sub.2 Composition
B.sub.2 (comparative) (invention) (invention) .DELTA.L* .DELTA.L*
.DELTA.a*/.DELTA.b* T = 30 minutes -0.4 -5 1.2
[0162] It is thus found that 30 minutes after application,
composition A.sub.2, which contains only DHA as skin-coloring
agent, gives the skin only a very faint coloration, since the DHA
has not yet had time to act (.DELTA.l*=-0.4). On the other hand,
composition B.sub.2 according to the invention, containing DHA
combined with the sorghum extract, has already given the skin a
significant coloration (.DELTA.L*=-5).
[0163] Composition A.sub.2 does not give after 30 minutes a
darkening comparable to that of composition B.sub.2.
EXAMPLE 3
[0164] The procedure is carried out under the same conditions as in
Example 1.
[0165] Composition A.sub.3 (not According to the Invention):
7 Polydimethyl/methyl siloxane POE/POP 10 g (396/4) (EO/PO 18/18)
at 10% D5 Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 12.5 g Mixture of natural
tocopherols/soybean oil 0.1 g Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) 4 g Propylene
glycol 15 g Preservatives qs Demineralized water qs 100 g
[0166] Composition B.sub.3 (Invention):
8 Polydimethyl/methyl siloxane POE/POP 10 g (396/4) (EO/PO 18/18)
at 10% D5 Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 12.5 g Mixture of natural
tocopherols/soybean oil 0.1 g
1,4-Benzene[di(3-methylidene-10-camphor-sulphonic)] acid 0.5 g
Propylene glycol 15 g Extract of Sorghum vulgare (Sorghum Extract
0.7 g Absorbance >30 from Premier Specialties) Preservatives qs
Demineralized water qs 100 g
[0167] The results obtained are collated in table (III) below:
9 TABLE (III) Composition A.sub.3 Composition B.sub.3 (comparative)
.DELTA.L* (invention) .DELTA.L* T = 30 minutes -0.4 -6.1
[0168] It is thus found that 30 minutes after application,
composition A.sub.3, which contains DHA as skin-coloring agent,
gives the skin only a very faint coloration, since the DHA has not
yet had time to act (.DELTA.L*=-0.4). On the other hand,
composition B.sub.3 according to the invention, containing the
sorghum extract combined with a UV-screening agent, has already
given the skin a significant coloration (.DELTA.L*=-6.1).
[0169] Each patent, patent application and literature
article/report cited or indicated herein is hereby expressly
incorporated by reference.
[0170] While the invention has been described in terms of various
specific and preferred embodiments, the skilled artisan will
appreciate that various modifications, substitutions, omissions,
and changes may be made without departing from the spirit thereof.
Accordingly, it is intended that the scope of the present invention
be limited solely by the scope of the following claims, including
equivalents thereof.
* * * * *