U.S. patent application number 10/195432 was filed with the patent office on 2003-04-03 for mascara comprising solid particles.
Invention is credited to Auguste, Frederic, Tournilhac, Florence.
Application Number | 20030064038 10/195432 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 27248795 |
Filed Date | 2003-04-03 |
United States Patent
Application |
20030064038 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Auguste, Frederic ; et
al. |
April 3, 2003 |
Mascara comprising solid particles
Abstract
A composition for coating keratinous fibers, comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least one volatile
solvent, a nonvolatile fraction comprising: a) at least one polymer
capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers, b) particles which
are solid at 25.degree. C. chosen from: i) solid particles of a
crystalline or semicrystalline material, ii) solid particles of an
amorphous material, iii) solid particles of at least one wax having
a hardness of greater than or equal to 6.5 MPa iv) and mixtures
thereof. The solid particles are present in the composition in an
amount such that the volume fraction of the solid particles is less
than or equal to 50% of the total volume of the said nonvolatile
fraction. The composition can make it possible to obtain good
curling of keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes.
Inventors: |
Auguste, Frederic;
(Chevilly-Larue, FR) ; Tournilhac, Florence;
(Paris, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
Thomas L. Irving
FINNEGAN, HENDERSON, FARABOW,
GARRETT & DUNNER, L.L.P.
1300 I Street, N.W.
Washington
DC
20005-3315
US
|
Family ID: |
27248795 |
Appl. No.: |
10/195432 |
Filed: |
July 16, 2002 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
60306443 |
Jul 20, 2001 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/63 ; 424/401;
424/489 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/19 20130101; A61K
2800/413 20130101; A61Q 1/10 20130101; A61K 8/922 20130101; B82Y
5/00 20130101; A61K 8/87 20130101; A61K 8/044 20130101; A61K 8/88
20130101; A61K 8/8152 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/63 ; 424/401;
424/489 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/021; A61K
006/00; A61K 009/14 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jul 16, 2001 |
FR |
01 09504 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A composition for coating keratinous fibers, comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least one volatile
solvent, a nonvolatile fraction comprising: a) at least one polymer
capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers, b) main particles
which are solid at 25.degree. C. chosen from: i) first solid
particles comprising at least one first material chosen from
crystalline and semicrystalline materials which are solid at
25.degree. C. and have at least one of a first order phase
transition, a melting transition and a combustion transition,
greater than 100.degree. C., ii) second solid particles comprising
a second material chosen from at least one amorphous material
having a glass transition temperature of greater than or equal to
60.degree. C., iii) third solid particles comprising a third
material chosen from at least one wax having a hardness of greater
than or equal to 6.5 MPa, and iv) mixtures thereof, c) and
optionally additional solid particles different from said main
solid particles, the additional solid particles not being capable
of coalescing at a temperature of less than or equal to 40.degree.
C., wherein the main solid particles and, where appropriate, the
additional solid particles are present in the composition in an
amount such that the volume fraction of the main solid particles
and, where appropriate, of the additional solid particles is
greater than or equal to 1% and less than 50% of the total volume
of said nonvolatile fraction, and, where appropriate, the volume
fraction of the main solid particles is greater than or equal to
50% of the total volume of the main solid particles and of the
additional solid particles.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the keratinous
fibers are eyelashes.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the main particles
comprise the first solid particles, and the at least one first
material has a first order phase transition greater than
100.degree. C.
4. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the at least one
first material has a first order phase transition greater than
120.degree. C.
5. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the at least one
first material has a first order phase transition greater than
150.degree. C.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
first material has a Vicker hardness of greater than or equal to
10.
7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the at least one
first material has a Vicker hardness ranging from 10 to 7,500.
8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
first material has a Vicker hardness greater than or equal to
200.
9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the at least one
first material has a Vicker hardness ranging from 200 to 7,500.
10. The composition according to claim 9, wherein the at least one
first material has a Vicker hardness greater than or equal to
400.
11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the at least one
first material has a Vicker hardness ranging from 400 to 7,500.
12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
first material is chosen from silica, glass, diamond, copper, boron
nitride, ceramics, metal oxides, and polyamides.
13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the metal oxides
are chosen from iron oxides.
14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first solid
particles have a mean size ranging from 5 nm to 50 nm.
15. The composition according to claim 14, wherein the first solid
particles have a mean size ranging from 20 nm to 50 nm.
16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the main
particles comprise the second solid particles, and the second
material has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal
to 60.degree. C.
17. The composition according to claim 16, wherein the second
material has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal
to 80.degree. C.
18. The composition according to claim 17, wherein the second
material has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal
to 100.degree. C.
19. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second
material is at least one polymer.
20. The composition according to claim 19, wherein the second
material is at least one polymer chosen from free-radical polymers
and polycondensates.
21. The composition according to claim 20, wherein the second
material is at least one polymer chosen from ethylene polymers,
propylene polymers, acrylic polymers, acrylamide polymers,
acrylonitrile polymers, methacrylonitrile polymers, polycarbonates,
polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polysulphones,
polysulphonamides, and carbohydrates.
22. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second
particles have a mean size ranging from 10 nm to 50 .mu.m.
23. The composition according to claim 22, wherein the second
particles have a mean size ranging from 20 nm to 1 .mu.m.
24. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the main
particles comprise the third solid particles.
25. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the third
material comprises at least one wax having a melting point ranging
from 30.degree. C. to 99.degree. C.
26. The composition according to claim 25, wherein the at least one
wax has a melting point ranging from 40.degree. C. to 99.degree.
C.
27. The composition according to claim 26, wherein the at least one
wax has a melting point greater than or equal to 30.degree. C. and
less than 77.degree. C.
28. The composition according to claim 27, wherein the at least one
wax has a melting point greater than or equal to 30.degree. C. and
less than 60.degree. C.
29. The composition according to claim 25, wherein the at least one
wax has a hardness ranging from 6.5 MPa to 20 MPa.
30. The composition according to claim 29, wherein the at least one
wax has a hardness ranging from 6.5 MPa to 15 MPa.
31. The composition according to claim 30, wherein the at least one
wax has a hardness ranging from 6.5 to 12 MPa.
32. The composition according to claim 29, wherein the at least one
wax has a hardness ranging from 9.7 to 20 MPa.
33. The composition according to claim 32, wherein the at least one
wax has a hardness ranging from 9.7 to 15 MPa.
34. The composition according to claim 33, wherein the at least one
wax has a hardness ranging from 9.7 to 12 to MPa.
35. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
wax is chosen from Candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumac
wax, ceresin, octacosanyl stearate, tetracontanyl stearate, Shellac
wax, behenyl fumarate, di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate,
di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate, ozokerites, waxes
obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl
alcohol, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil
esterified with cetyl alcohol.
36. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
wax is chosen from di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate and
olive waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with
stearyl alcohol.
37. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the third solid
particles have a mean size ranging from 50 nm to 50 .mu.m.
38. The composition according to claim 37, wherein the third solid
particles have a mean size ranging from 100 nm to 10 .mu.m.
39. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition
comprises said main particles and said additional solid
particles.
40. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the volume
fraction of the main particles and, where appropriate, of the
additional solid particles ranges from 1% to 49% of the total
volume of the nonvolatile fraction of the composition.
41. The composition according to claim 40, wherein the volume
fraction of the main particles and, where appropriate, of the
additional solid particles is greater than or equal to 5% and less
than 50% of the total volume of the nonvolatile fraction of the
composition.
42. The composition according to claim 41, wherein the volume
fraction of the main particles and, where appropriate, of the
additional solid particles ranges from 5% to 49% of the total
volume of the nonvolatile fraction of the composition.
43. The composition according to claim 40, wherein the volume
fraction of the main particles and, where appropriate, of the
additional solid particles is greater than or equal to 1% and less
than or equal to 40% of the total volume of the nonvolatile
fraction of the composition.
44. The composition according to claim 43, wherein the volume
fraction of the main particles and, where appropriate, of the
additional solid particles ranges from 5% to 40% of the total
volume of the nonvolatile fraction of the composition.
45. The composition according to claim 40, wherein the volume
fraction of the main particles and, where appropriate, of the
additional solid particles is greater than or equal to 1% and less
than or equal to 30% of the total volume of the nonvolatile
fraction of the composition.
46. The composition according to claim 45, wherein the volume
fraction of the main particles and, where appropriate, of the
additional solid particles ranges from 10% to 30% of the total
volume of the nonvolatile fraction of the composition.
47. The composition according to claim 39, wherein the main
particles are present in the composition in an amount such that the
volume fraction of the main particles is greater than or equal to
50% of the total volume of the main particles and of the additional
solid particles.
48. The composition according to claim 47, wherein the main
particles are present in the composition in an amount such that the
volume fraction of the main solid particles ranges from 50% to 99%,
of the total volume of the main particles and of the additional
solid particles.
49. The composition according to claim 47, wherein the main
particles are present in the composition in an amount such that the
volume fraction of the main particles is greater than or equal to
60%, of the total volume of the main particles and of the
additional solid particles.
50. The composition according to claim 49, wherein the main
particles are present in the composition in an amount such that the
volume fraction of the main particles ranges from 60% to 99%, of
the total volume of the main particles and of the additional solid
particles.
51. The composition according to claim 47, wherein the main
particles are present in the composition in an amount such that the
volume fraction of the main particles is greater than or equal to
70%, of the total volume of the main particles and of the
additional solid particles.
52. The composition according to claim 51, wherein the main
particles are present in the composition in an amount such that the
volume fraction of the main particles ranges from 70% to 99%, of
the total volume of the main particles and of the additional solid
particles.
53. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
volatile solvent is chosen from water, volatile organic solvents,
and volatile oils.
54. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
polymer capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers is chosen from
vinyl polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas,
and cellulose polymers.
55. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
polymer capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers is a
film-forming polymer at a temperature of less than or equal to
40.degree. C.
56. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
polymer capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers is capable of
forming a deposit producing, at a concentration of 7% in water, a
retraction of the isolated stratum corneum of more than 1% at
30.degree. C. at a relative humidity of 40%.
57. The composition according to claim 56, wherein the retraction
of the stratum corneum is more than 1.2%,
58. The composition according to claim 57, wherein the retraction
of the stratum corneum is more than 1.5%.
59. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
polymer capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers is present in
an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
60. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
polymer capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers is present in
an amount ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition.
61. The composition according to claim 60, wherein the at least one
polymer capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers is present in
an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition.
62. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition
comprises an aqueous phase.
63. The composition according to claim 62, wherein the aqueous
phase is chosen from water and a mixture of water and at least one
water-miscible organic solvent.
64. The composition according to claim 63, wherein the at least one
water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from lower monoalcohols
having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon
atoms, C.sub.3-C.sub.4 ketones, and C.sub.2-C.sub.4 aidehydes.
65. The composition according to claim 63, wherein the aqueous
phase is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
66. The composition according to claim 65, wherein the aqueous
phase is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 80% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
67. The composition according to claim 66, wherein the aqueous
phase is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 65% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
68. The composition according to claim 62, wherein the at least one
polymer capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers is solubilized
in the aqueous phase.
69. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
polymer capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers is in the form
of solid particles in aqueous dispersion.
70. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at
least one volatile oil.
71. The composition according to claim 70, wherein the at least one
volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and
fluorinated oils.
72. The composition according to claim 70, wherein the at least one
volatile oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 98% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
73. The composition according to claim 72, wherein the at least one
volatile oil is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 65% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
74. The composition according to claim 73, wherein the at least one
volatile oil is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 65% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
75. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at
least one nonvolatile oil.
76. The composition according to claim 75, wherein the at least one
nonvolatile oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
77. The composition according to claim 76, wherein the at least one
nonvolatile oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
78. The composition according to claim 77, wherein the at least one
nonvolatile oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
79. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
polymer capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers is solubilized
or dispersed in the form of surface-stabilized particles in at
least one liquid fatty phase.
80. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at
least one additional wax different from the at least one wax of the
third solid particles.
81. The composition according to claim 80, wherein the at least one
additional wax is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 35% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
82. The composition according to claim 81, wherein the at least one
additional wax is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
83. The composition according to claim 82, wherein the at least one
additional wax is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by
weight by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
84. The composition according to claim 80, wherein the at least one
additional wax is in the form of particles having a mean size
ranging from 50 nm to 50 .mu.m.
85. The composition according to claim 84, wherein the at least one
additional wax is in the form of particles having a mean size
ranging from 50 nm to 10 .mu.m.
86. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at
least one surfactant.
87. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at
least one additive chosen from colouring substances, antioxidants,
fillers, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizing agents, thickeners,
cosmetic active agents, sunscreens, coalescing agents, and
plasticizers.
88. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition
does not contain: a) a mixture of 41% water, 10% isododecane, 5%
ethanol, 4% hectorite, and 10% black iron oxide; or b) a mixture of
62.9% water, 10% stearic acid, 3% triethanolamine, 4% zinc oxide,
and 10% black iron oxide, wherein the percentages are expressed by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
89. A mascara comprising a composition comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least one volatile
solvent, a nonvolatile fraction comprising: a) at least one polymer
capable of adhering to keratinous fibers, b) main particles which
are solid at 25.degree. C. chosen from: i) first solid particles
comprising at least one first material chosen from crystalline and
semicrystalline materials which are solid at 250C and have at least
one of a first order phase transition, a melting transition and a
combustion transition, greater than 100.degree. C., ii) second
solid particles comprising a second material chosen from at least
one amorphous material having a glass transition temperature of
greater than or equal to 60.degree. C., iii) third solid particles
comprising a third material chosen from at least one wax having a
hardness of greater than or equal to 6.5 MPa, and iv) mixtures
thereof, c) and optionally additional solid particles different
from said main solid particles, the additional solid particles not
being capable of coalescing at a temperature of less than or equal
to 40.degree. C., wherein the main solid particles and, where
appropriate, the additional solid particles are present in the
composition in an amount such that the volume fraction of the main
solid particles and, where appropriate, of the additional solid
particles is greater than or equal to 1% and less than 50% of the
total volume of said nonvolatile fraction, and, where appropriate,
the volume fraction of the main solid particles is greater than or
equal to 50% of the total volume of the main solid particles and of
the additional solid particles.
90. A method of applying make-up to or for a nontherapeutic
treatment of keratinous fibers, comprising: applying to the
keratinous fibers a composition comprising, in a cosmetically
acceptable medium comprising at least one volatile solvent, a
nonvolatile fraction comprising: a) at least one polymer capable of
adhering to the keratinous fibers, b) main particles which are
solid at 25.degree. C. chosen from: i) first solid particles
comprising at least one first material chosen from crystalline and
semicrystalline materials which are solid at 25.degree. C. and have
at least one of a first order phase transition, a melting
transition and a combustion transition, greater than 100.degree.
C., ii) second solid particles comprising a second material chosen
from at least one amorphous material having a glass transition
temperature of greater than or equal to 60.degree. C., iii) third
solid particles comprising a third material chosen from at least
one wax having a hardness of greater than or equal to 6.5 MPa, and
iv) mixtures thereof, c) and optionally additional solid particles
different from said main solid particles, the additional solid
particles not being capable of coalescing at a temperature of less
than or equal to 40.degree. C., wherein the main solid particles
and, where appropriate, the additional solid particles are present
in the composition in an amount such that the volume fraction of
the main solid particles and, where appropriate, of the additional
solid particles is greater than or equal to 1% and less than 50% of
the total volume of said nonvolatile fraction, and, where
appropriate, the volume fraction of the main solid particles is
greater than or equal to 50% of the total volume of the main solid
particles and of the additional solid particles.
91. The method according to claim 90, wherein the keratinous fibers
are eyelashes.
92. A method for curling keratinous fibers, comprising: applying to
the keratinous fibers in an amount effective to curl the keratinous
fibers, a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable
medium comprising at least one volatile solvent, a nonvolatile
fraction comprising: a) at least one polymer capable of adhering to
the keratinous fibers, b) main particles which are solid at
25.degree. C. chosen from: i) first solid particles comprising at
least one first material chosen from crystalline and
semicrystalline materials which are solid at 25.degree. C. and have
at least one of a first order phase transition, a melting
transition and a combustion transition, greater than 100.degree.
C., ii) second solid particles comprising a second material chosen
from at least one amorphous material having a glass transition
temperature of greater than or equal to 60.degree. C., iii) third
solid particles comprising a third material chosen from at least
one wax having a hardness of greater than or equal to 6.5 MPa, and
iv) mixtures thereof, c) and optionally additional solid particles
different from said main solid particles, the additional solid
particles not being capable of coalescing at a temperature of less
than or equal to 40.degree. C., wherein the main solid particles
and, where appropriate, the additional solid particles are present
in the composition in an amount such that the volume fraction of
the main solid particles and, where appropriate, of the additional
solid particles is greater than or equal to 1% and less than 50% of
the total volume of said nonvolatile fraction, and, where
appropriate, the volume fraction of the main solid particles is
greater than or equal to 50% of the total volume of the main solid
particles and of the additional solid particles.
93. The method according to claim 92, wherein the keratinous fibers
are eyelashes.
94. A method for improving the curling capability of a composition
for coating keratinous fibers, the composition comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least one volatile
solvent, a nonvolatile fraction comprising at least one polymer
capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers, the method
comprising: adding main particles to the nonvolatile fraction, the
particles being solid at 25.degree. C. and chosen from: i) first
solid particles comprising at least one first material chosen from
crystalline and semicrystalline materials which are solid at
25.degree. C. and have at least one of a first order phase
transition, a melting transition and a combustion transition,
greater than 100.degree. C., ii) second solid particles comprising
a second material chosen from amorphous materials having a glass
transition temperature of greater than or equal to 60.degree. C.,
iii) third solid particles comprising a third material chosen from
at least one wax having a hardness of greater than or equal to 6.5
MPa, and iv) mixtures thereof, wherein the non-volatile fraction
optionally comprises additional solid particles different from said
main solid particles, the additional solid particles not being
capable of coalescing at a temperature of less than or equal to
40.degree. C., the main solid particles and, where appropriate, the
additional solid particles are present in the composition in an
amount such that the volume fraction of the main solid particles
and, where appropriate, the additional solid particles is greater
than or equal to 1% and less than 50% of the total volume of the
said nonvolatile fraction, and, where appropriate, the volume
fraction of the main solid particles is greater than or equal to
50% of the total volume of the main solid particles and of the
additional solid particles.
95. The method according to claim 94, wherein the keratinous fibers
are eyelashes.
96. The method according to claim 95, wherein the composition is
present in a mascara.
97. A composition for coating keratinous fibers, comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least one volatile
solvent, a nonvolatile fraction comprising: main particles which
are solid at 25.degree. C. chosen from: i) first solid particles
comprising at least one first material chosen from crystalline and
semicrystalline materials which are solid at 25.degree. C. and have
at least one of a first order phase transition, a melting
transition and a combustion transition, greater than 100.degree.
C., ii) second solid particles comprising a second material chosen
from at least one amorphous material having a glass transition
temperature of greater than or equal to 60.degree. C., iii) third
solid particles comprising a third material chosen from at least
one wax having a hardness of greater than or equal to 6.5 MPa, and
iv) mixtures thereof, c) and optionally additional solid particles
different from said main solid particles, the additional solid
particles not being capable of coalescing at a temperature of less
than or equal to 40.degree. C., wherein the main solid particles
and, where appropriate, the additional solid particles are present
in the composition in an amount such that the volume fraction of
the main solid particles and, where appropriate, of the additional
solid particles is greater than or equal to 1% and less than 50% of
the total volume of said nonvolatile fraction, and, where
appropriate, the volume fraction of the main solid particles is
greater than or equal to 50% of the total volume of the main solid
particles and of the additional solid particles, and wherein at
least a portion of at least one of said main particles and said
optional additional solid particles are chosen from at least one
polymer capable of adhering to the keratinous fibers.
Description
[0001] This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional
Application No. 60/306,443, filed Jul. 20, 2001.
[0002] One subject of the present invention is a cosmetic
composition for coating keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes or
hair, comprising solid particles and at least one adherent polymer.
The present invention also relates to methods for curling
keratinous fibers with the cosmetic compositions described herein.
The composition can be applied to substantially longitudinal
keratinous fibers of humans, such as eyelashes or hair or
alternatively false eyelashes or pastiches such as wigs. The
composition can also be used for coating the eyelashes.
[0003] The composition may be a make-up composition, also called
mascara, a composition to be applied over a make up, also called
top coat, or alternatively a composition for treating keratinous
fibers, such as eyelashes. In one embodiment, the composition is a
mascara.
[0004] The present invention can provide a composition for coating
eyelashes leading, after application, to a coat, which can confer
good curling of the eyelashes.
[0005] The inventors have discovered that such a coating of the
eyelashes could be obtained using particular solid particles
combined with an adherent polymer.
[0006] One aspect of the invention provides a composition for
coating keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes, comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least one volatile
solvent, a nonvolatile fraction comprising:
[0007] a) at least one polymer capable of adhering to the
keratinous fibers,
[0008] b) main particles which are solid at 25.degree. C. chosen
from:
[0009] i) first solid particles comprising at least one first
material chosen from crystalline and semicrystalline materials
which are solid at 25.degree. C. and have at least one of a first
order phase transition, a melting transition and a combustion
transition, greater than 100.degree. C.,
[0010] ii) second solid particles comprising a second material
chosen from at least one amorphous material having a glass
transition temperature of greater than or equal to 60.degree.
C.,
[0011] iii) third solid particles comprising a third material
chosen from at least one wax having a hardness of greater than or
equal to 6.5 MPa, and
[0012] iv) mixtures thereof,
[0013] c) and optionally additional solid particles different from
the said main solid particles, the additional solid particles not
being capable of coalescing at a temperature of less than or equal
to 40.degree. C.,
[0014] wherein the main solid particles and, where appropriate, the
additional solid particles are present in the composition in an
amount such that the volume fraction of the main solid particles
and, where appropriate, of the additional solid particles is
greater than or equal to 1% and less than 50% of the total volume
of the said nonvolatile fraction,
[0015] and, where appropriate, the volume fraction of the main
solid particles is greater than or equal to 50% of the total volume
of the main solid particles and of the additional solid
particles.
[0016] Another aspect of the invention provides a mascara
comprising a composition as described herein.
[0017] Another aspect of the invention provides a method of
applying make-up to or for a nontherapeutic treatment of keratinous
fibers, such as eyelashes, comprising applying to the keratinous
fibers a composition as described herein.
[0018] Another aspect of the invention provides a method for
curling keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes, comprising applying
to the keratinous fibers in an amount effective to curl the
keratinous fibers, a composition as described herein.
[0019] Another aspect of the invention provides a method for
improving the curling capability of a composition for coating
keratinous fibers, the composition comprising, in a cosmetically
acceptable medium comprising at least one volatile solvent, a
nonvolatile fraction comprising at least one polymer capable of
adhering to the keratinous fibers. The method comprises adding main
particles to the nonvolatile fraction where the particles are solid
at 25.degree. C. and are chosen from:
[0020] i) first solid particles comprising at least one first
material chosen from crystalline and semicrystalline materials
which are solid at 25.degree. C. and have at least one of a first
order phase transition, a melting transition and a combustion
transition, greater than 100.degree. C.,
[0021] ii) second solid particles comprising a second material
chosen from at least one amorphous material having a glass
transition temperature of greater than or equal to 60.degree.
C.,
[0022] iii) third solid particles comprising a third material
chosen from at least one wax having a hardness of greater than or
equal to 6.5 MPa, and
[0023] iv) mixtures thereof,
[0024] and optionally additional solid particles different from the
main solid particles, the additional solid particles not being
capable of coalescing at a temperature of less than or equal to
40.degree. C. the main solid particles and, where appropriate, the
additional solid particles being present in the composition in an
amount such that the volume fraction of the main solid particles
and, where appropriate, of the additional solid particles is
greater than or equal to 1% and less than 50% of the total volume
of the said nonvolatile fraction,
[0025] and, where appropriate, the volume fraction of the main
solid particles is greater than or equal to 50% of the total volume
of the main solid particles and of the additional solid particles,
for curling keratinous fibres, such as eyelashes.
[0026] The expression "solid particles" is understood to mean
particles which are in the solid state at 25.degree. C. and at
atmospheric pressure.
[0027] The expression "nonvolatile fraction of the composition" is
understood to mean the combination of the constituents present in
the composition which are not volatile. The expression "volatile
compound" is understood to mean a compound which, taken in
isolation, has a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature
(25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 10.sup.-2 to
300 mmHg (1.33 Pa to 40 000 Pa) such as pressures greater than 0.3
mmHg (40 Pa).
[0028] In one embodiment, the nonvolatile fraction of the
composition can correspond to the mixture of the constituents
remaining on the eyelashes after drying of the mascara, containing
the composition, applied to the eyelashes.
[0029] In one embodiment, to obtain good curling of the eyelashes,
the composition according to the invention comprises solid
particles, called main solid particles, chosen from the first,
second and third solid particles as defined above, and mixtures
thereof.
[0030] The main solid particles may comprise solid particles,
called first solid particles, comprising at least one first
material, chosen from crystalline and semicrystalline materials
which are solid at 25.degree. C. and have at least one of a first
order phase transition, a melting transition and a combustion
transition, greater than 100.degree. C., such as greater than
120.degree. C. or greater than 150.degree. C.
[0031] The melting or combustion temperature of the first material
may be measured according to the ASTM E794-98 standard.
[0032] The expression "semicrystalline material" is understood to
mean within the context of the invention, a material, such as a
polymer, comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part
exhibiting a reversible first order phase transition temperature,
such as a melting point (solid-liquid transition).
[0033] The first crystalline or semicrystalline material can
exhibit a Vickers hardness greater than or equal to 10, such as a
Vickers hardness ranging from 10 to 7500, greater than or equal to
200, ranging from 200 to 7500, greater than or equal to 400, or
ranging from 400 to 7500.
[0034] The VICKERS hardness (HV) can be determined by applying to
the material a penetrometer in the form of a square-base pyramid,
using a load P. The mean size of a diagonal of the square
impression obtained with the penetrometer can then be measured.
[0035] The VICKERS hardness (HV) can then be calculated by the
relationship: 1 HV = 1854.4 .times. P d 2 d = mean diagonal in m P
= load applied in g
[0036] The measurement of the VICKERS hardness may be carried out
using the microdurometer M 400 g 2 from the company LECO.
[0037] The first material of the said first solid particles may be
an inorganic material which may be chosen from silica, glass,
diamond, copper, boron nitride, ceramics, micas, metal oxides for
example, iron oxides such as black iron oxide, red iron oxide,
yellow iron oxide, titanium oxides, alumina, or alternatively a
polymer such as a polyamide, for example nylon, and mixtures
thereof.
[0038] The said first particles may be solid particles, or
alternatively hollow particles.
[0039] In one embodiment, the said first particles are formed of
the said first material described above.
[0040] In one embodiment, the first solid particles comprise at
least two different first materials. This is, for example, the case
of micas coated with titanium oxide or with iron oxide.
[0041] In one embodiment, the said first solid particles comprise
at least the said first material, and at least an additional
material, different from the said first material, the said first
material forming the surface of the said first particles. For these
solid particles, the said first material having the characteristics
described above exists at the surface of the said first particles,
the latter comprising an additional material coated with the first
material.
[0042] In one embodiment, the said first particles may have a mean
size ranging from 5 nm to 50 .mu.m, such as from 20 nm to 50 .mu.m,
as measured by methods known to those skilled in the art.
[0043] The main solid particles may comprise second solid
particles, comprising a second material chosen from at least one
amorphous material, such as polymers, having a glass transition
temperature greater than or equal to 60.degree. C., such as a glass
transition temperature ranging from 60.degree. C. to 800.degree.
C., greater than or equal to 80.degree. C., ranging from 80.degree.
C. to 700.degree. C., greater than or equal to 100.degree. C., or
ranging from 100.degree. C. to 500.degree. C. The glass transition
temperature may be measured by DSC (Differential Scanning
Calorimetry) according to the ASTM D3418-97 standard.
[0044] Representative amorphous materials include polymers which
are nonfilm-forming at a temperature of less than or equal to
40.degree. C. having a glass transition temperature as described
above.
[0045] The expression "nonfilm-forming polymer at a temperature of
less than or equal to 40.degree. C." is understood to mean a
polymer which is not capable of forming, on its own or in the
presence of a film-forming aid, a continuous film which is adherent
to a support, such as keratinous fibers, at a temperature of less
than or equal to 40.degree. C.
[0046] The expression "film-forming aid" is understood to mean
plasticizing agents and coalescing agents known to persons skilled
in the art for promoting film formation by polymers.
[0047] Representative amorphous polymers having a glass transition
temperature of greater than or equal to 60.degree. C. include
free-radical polymers or polycondensates having the defined glass
transition temperature.
[0048] As representative free-radical polymers, there may be
mentioned:
[0049] polymers of ethylene, such as those of cycloethylene and
naphthylethylene;
[0050] polymers of propylene, such as those of
hexafluoropropylene;
[0051] acrylic polymers, such those of acrylic acid,
dimethyl-adamanthyl acrylate, and chloroacrylate;
[0052] polymers of acrylamide;
[0053] polymers methacrylonitrile;
[0054] polymers of acetylstyrene, carboxystyrene, and
chloromethylstyrene.
[0055] As representative polycondensates, there may be mentioned
polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides,
polysulphones, polysulphonamides and carbohydrates such as amylose
triacetate.
[0056] The second solid particles may be solid particles or hollow
particles.
[0057] In one embodiment, the second solid particles comprise the
second amorphous material described above.
[0058] In one embodiment, the second solid particles comprise at
least the said second (amorphous) material and at least one
additional material, different from the second (amorphous)
material, the said second (amorphous) material forming the surface,
or the crust, of the said second solid particles and the additional
material forming the inside, or the core, of the said second solid
particles.
[0059] The additional material may be, for example, an additional
polymer having a glass transition temperature of less than
60.degree. C., such as less than 45.degree. C.
[0060] The second solid particles may be, for example, core-shell
particles of polymers comprising an outer part, such as a crust,
comprising the second (amorphous) material having a glass
transition temperature of greater than or equal to 60.degree. C.,
and comprising an inner part, such as a core, comprising the
additional polymer having a glass transition temperature of less
than 60.degree. C.
[0061] In one embodiment, the content of the second material in the
second solid particles is such that the volume fraction of the
second material is greater than or equal to 10%, such as a volume
fraction greater than or equal to 30%, by volume of the total
volume of the second solid particles.
[0062] The second solid particles may have a mean size ranging from
10 nm to 50 .mu.m, such as a mean size ranging from 20 nm to 1
.mu.m, as measured by methods known to those skilled in the
art.
[0063] As representative second solid particles, there may be used
aqueous dispersions of nonfilm-forming polymer which are sold under
the names "JONCRYL.RTM. SCX 8082", "JONCRYL.RTM. 90" by the company
JOHNSON POLYMER, "NEOCRYL.RTM. XK 52" by the company AVECIA RESINS
and "RHODOPAS.RTM. 5051" by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
[0064] The main solid particles may comprise third solid particles
comprising at least one wax, alternatively called a "hard wax"
having a hardness of greater than or equal to 6.5 MPa.
[0065] The expression "wax" is understood to mean, within the
context of the present invention, a lipophilic fatty compound,
which is solid at room temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric
pressure (760 mmHg, that is 10.sup.5 Pa), with a reversible
solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point ranging from
30.degree. C. to 99.degree. C., and such as ranging from 45.degree.
C. to 99.degree. C.
[0066] By heating the wax to its melting point, it is possible to
make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically
homogeneous mixture, but on bringing the temperature of the mixture
back to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils
of the mixture is obtained.
[0067] The melting point values can correspond, according to the
invention, to the peak of melting measured using a differential
scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under
the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a rise in temperature
of 5 or 10.degree. C. per minute.
[0068] The hard wax may have a melting point ranging from
30.degree. C. to 99.degree. C., such as a melting point ranging
from 40.degree. C. to 99.degree. C.
[0069] The hard wax can have a melting point of greater than or
equal to 30.degree. C. and of less than 77.degree. C., such as a
melting point greater than or equal to 30.degree. C. and of less
than 60.degree. C., such as ranging from 30.degree. C. to
59.degree. C., further such as ranging from 35.degree. C. to
59.degree. C., and or even further such as ranging from 40.degree.
C. to 50.degree. C.
[0070] The wax may have a hardness ranging from 6.5 MPa to 20 MPa,
such as a hardness ranging from 9.7 MPa to 20 MPa, such as ranging
from 9.7 MPa to 15 MPa. The wax may have a hardness of greater than
10 MPa, such as a hardness ranging from 10 to 20 MPa, further such
as ranging from 10 to 12 MPa.
[0071] In one embodiment, the hardness of the wax is determined by
measuring the compression force measured at 20.degree. C. using a
texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company RHEO,
equipped with a stainless steel cylinder having a diameter of 2 mm,
moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating into the
wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. To measure the hardness, the
wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the
wax+20.degree. C. The molten wax is poured into a container having
a diameter of 30 mm and a depth of 20 mm. The wax is recrystallized
at room temperature (25.degree. C.) for 24 hours, and then the wax
is stored for at least 1 hour at 20.degree. C. before carrying out
the measurement of hardness. The value of the hardness is the
measured compacting force divided by the surface area of the
texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.
[0072] Representative waxes include Candelilla wax, hydrogenated
jojoba wax, sumac wax, ceresin, octacosanyl stearate, tetracontanyl
stearate, Shellac wax, behenyl fumarate,
di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name
"HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)
tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company
HETERENE, and ozokerites such as that sold under the name
"OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P" by the company STRAHL & PITSCH.
[0073] Other exemplary waxes include waxes obtained by
hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, sold
under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" and the waxes obtained by
hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold
under the name "PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73" by the company
SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.
[0074] The hard wax can be chosen from olive wax obtained by
hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, sold
under the name PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57 by the company SOPHIM and
di(1,1,1-trimethylolprop- ane) tetrastearate.
[0075] In one embodiment, the third solid particles may have a mean
size ranging from 50 nm to 50 .mu.m, such as a mean size ranging
from 50 nm to 10 .mu.m, as measured by methods known to those
skilled in the art.
[0076] In one embodiment, the main solid particles are chosen from
first, second, and third solid particles described above, and
mixtures thereof.
[0077] In one embodiment, the main solid particles comprise a
mixture of the first and second solid particles, or of the second
and third solid particles, or of the first and third solid
particles described above.
[0078] In one embodiment, the main solid particles comprise a
mixture of the first, second and third solid particles described
above.
[0079] The composition according to the invention may comprise, in
addition to the first main solid particles described above,
additional solid particles, different from the main solid
particles.
[0080] These additional solid particles can correspond to the
particles which are solid at 25.degree. C. of any material,
different from the main solid particles, remaining in the form of
individualized particles, or optionally of particles stuck together
but which retain, in this case, their individual particle state
(these particles stuck together are not coalesced at a temperature
of less than or equal to 40.degree. C.).
[0081] In one embodiment, the constituents present in the
composition according to the invention existing in the state of
solid particles at 25.degree. C. and which do not coalesce at a
temperature of less than or equal to 40.degree. C., on their own or
in the presence of the other constituents present in the
composition, are considered as being either main solid particles or
additional solid particles according to the definitions described
above.
[0082] The additional solid particles may be made of a material
chosen from waxes different from the hard wax of the third
particles described above, fillers, polymers different from the
amorphous material present in the second solid particles described
above.
[0083] The additives described below, when they are in the form of
solid particles at 25.degree. C., can be either main solid
particles, or additional solid particles as described above when
these additives possess the corresponding characteristics defined
above.
[0084] In one embodiment, the at least one adherent polymer present
in the composition according to the invention may be in the form of
solid particles. In this case, these particles are considered as
being solid particles as defined above if this polymer exists as a
solid at 25.degree. C. In another embodiment, the adherent polymer
particles do not coalesce at a temperature of less than or equal to
40.degree. C.
[0085] In the composition according to the invention, the main
solid particles and, where appropriate, the additional solid
particles are present in an amount such that the volume fraction of
the main solid particles and, where appropriate, of the additional
solid particles is greater than or equal to 1% and less than 50%,
such as a volume fraction greater than or equal to 5% and less than
50%, of the total volume of the nonvolatile fraction of the
composition, which means that the total volume of all the first
particles and, where appropriate, of the second particles
represents at least 1% but less than 50%, such as a volume fraction
ranging from 1% to 49% and further such as from 5% to 49%, of the
total volume of the nonvolatile fraction of the composition.
[0086] The expression "volume fraction of the main solid particles
and, where appropriate, of the additional solid particles" is
understood to mean the percentage total volume of all the main
solid particles and, where appropriate, of all the additional solid
particles present in the nonvolatile fraction of the composition,
relative to the total volume of all the compounds of the
nonvolatile fraction of the composition.
[0087] In one embodiment, the said volume fraction of the main
solid particles and, where appropriate, of the additional solid
particles is greater than or equal to 1% and less than or equal to
40%, such as from 5% to 40%), greater than or equal to 1% and less
than or equal to 30%, or from 10% to 30% of the total volume of the
nonvolatile fraction of the composition.
[0088] The volume fraction (VF) of solid particles present in the
nonvolatile fraction of the composition is equal to the percentage
total volume V of the said particles divided by the total volume V'
of the nonvolatile fraction of the composition.
[0089] The volume V of solid particles is equal to the mass m of
the said solid particles in the composition divided by the density
d of the particles. The density is calculated according to the
method described below.
Volume fraction: VF=100.times.V/V' and V=m/d
[0090] The total volume V' of the nonvolatile fraction of the
composition can be calculated by adding the volume of each
nonvolatile constituent present in the composition.
[0091] In one embodiment, when the composition comprises additional
solid particles as defined above, the main solid particles are
present in the composition in an amount such that the volume
fraction of the main solid particles is greater than or equal to
50%, such as a volume fraction ranging from 50% to 99%, of the
total volume of the main solid particles and of the additional
solid particles, further such as greater than or equal to 60%, such
as a volume fraction ranging from 60% to 99%, and even further such
as greater than or equal to 70%, such as from 70% to 99%.
[0092] The volatile solvent present in the composition according to
the invention may be chosen from water, the volatile organic
solvents and the volatile oils defined below, and mixtures
thereof.
[0093] In the present application, the expression "polymer capable
of adhering to the keratinous fibers", called later adherent
polymer, is understood to mean a polymer capable of resting
attached to keratinous fibers such as the eyelashes, the hair or
the skin, during contact of the polymer with the keratinous fibers.
In one embodiment, the adherent polymer is capable of forming a
deposit on the keratinous fibers and can remain attached to the
latter for a normal period of wear.
[0094] In one embodiment, the at least one adherent polymer may be
chosen from film-forming polymers at a temperature of less than or
equal to 40.degree. C. The expression "film-forming polymer" is
understood to mean a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in
the presence of a film-forming aid, a continuous deposit such as a
film, which adheres to a support, such as keratinous fibers.
[0095] The adherent polymer present in the composition according to
the invention may be a polymer solubilized or dispersed in the form
of solid particles in an aqueous phase of the composition or
alternatively solubilized or dispersed in the form of solid
particles in at least one liquid fatty phase. The composition may
comprise a mixture of these polymers. When the adherent polymer
exists in the form of solid particles, these particles may have a
mean particle size ranging from 5 nm to 10 .mu.m, such as a mean
particle size ranging from 5 nm to 5 .mu.m, such as from 5 nm to
600 nm, and further such as from 20 nm to 300 nm., as measured by
methods known to those skilled in the art.
[0096] The adherent polymer may be present in the composition
according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from
0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition, such as from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and further such
as from 1% to 30% by weight.
[0097] Representative adherent polymers which can be used in the
composition of the present invention, include synthetic polymers of
the free-radical type or of the polycondensate type, polymers of
natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] The expression "free-radical polymer" is understood to mean
a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers with ethylenic
unsaturation, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (in
contrast to polycondensates).
[0099] The polymers of the free-radical type may be vinyl polymers
or copolymers or acrylic polymers.
[0100] The vinyl polymers may result from the polymerization of
ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group
and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acid
monomers.
[0101] Representative monomers carrying an acid group include
.alpha.,.beta.-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as
acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid; maleic acid or
itaconic acid.
[0102] The esters of acid monomers can be chosen from the esters of
acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, also called acrylates or
methacrylates, i.e. "(meth)acrylates." In one embodiment, the
esters of acid monomers are chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl
methacrylates, such as C.sub.1-C.sub.30 such as C.sub.1-C.sub.20
alkyl acrylates and C.sub.1-C.sub.30, such as C.sub.1-C.sub.20
alkyl methacrylates. In another embodiment, the esters of acid
monomers are chosen from aryl acrylates and aryl methacrylates,
such as C.sub.6-C.sub.10 aryl acrylates and C.sub.6-C.sub.10 aryl
methacrylates. In yet another embodiment, the esters of acid
monomers are chosen from hydroxyalkyl acrylates and hydroxyalkyl
methacrylates, such as C.sub.2-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl acrylates and
C.sub.2-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl methacrylates.
[0103] Exemplary alkyl (meth)acrylates include methyl methacrylate,
ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate,
2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, and cyclohexyl
methacrylate.
[0104] Exemplary hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates include hydroxyethyl
acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and
2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0105] Exemplary aryl (meth)acrylates include benzyl acrylate and
phenyl acrylate.
[0106] Representative esters of (meth)acrylic acid include alkyl
(meth)acrylates.
[0107] In one embodiment, the alkyl group of the esters may be
either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or
all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with
fluorine atoms.
[0108] As amides of the acid monomers, there may be mentioned for
example (meth)acrylamides and N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, such as
C.sub.2-C.sub.12 alkyl (meth)acrylamides. Representative
N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides include N-ethylacrylamide,
N-t-butylacrylamide, N-t-octylacrylamide, and
N-undecylacrylamide.
[0109] The vinyl polymers may also result from the
homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from
vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In one embodiment, these
monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or their esters
and/or their amides, such as those mentioned above.
[0110] As examples of vinyl esters, there may be mentioned vinyl
acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinylbenzoate, and
vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
[0111] As styrene monomers, there may be mentioned styrene and
alpha-methylstyrene.
[0112] It is possible to use any monomer known to a person skilled
in the art entering into the categories of acrylic and vinyl
monomers, including the monomers modified by a silicone chain.
[0113] Representative polycondensates include polyurethanes,
polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, epoxy ester resins, and
polyureas.
[0114] The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic,
nonionic and amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics,
polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes,
polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and
mixtures thereof.
[0115] The polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by
polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, such as
diols.
[0116] The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or
aromatic. There may be mentioned as examples of such acids: oxalic
acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric
acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic
acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid,
itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecane-dioic acid,
1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid,
isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norboranedicarboxylic
acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid,
2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, and 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic
acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in
combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers.
Representative dicarboxylic acid monomers include phthalic acid,
isophthalic acid, and terephthalic acid.
[0117] The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, and
aromatic diols. Exemplary diols are chosen from: ethylene glycol,
diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol,
cyclohexanedimethanol, and 4-butanediol. Representative polyols
include glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, and
trimethylolpropane.
[0118] The polyester amides may be obtained in a manner similar to
the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or
amino alcohols. Exemplary diamines include hexamethylenediamine,
meta- or para-phenylenediamine. An aminoalcohol, such as
monoethanolamine, may be used.
[0119] The polyester may, in addition, comprise at least one
monomer carrying at least one --SO.sub.3M group, where M is chosen
from hydrogen, an ammonium ion such as NH.sub.4.sup.+ and an
alkali, alkaline-earth or metal ion, such as for example an
Na.sup.+, Li.sup.+, K.sup.+, Mg.sup.2+, Ca.sup.2+, Cu.sup.2+,
Fe.sup.2+ and Fe.sup.3+ ion. A bifunctional aromatic monomer
comprising such an --SO.sub.3M group may also be used.
[0120] The aromatic ring of the bifunctional aromatic monomer
carrying, in addition, an --SO.sub.3M group as described above may
be chosen, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene,
diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulphonyldiphenyl, and methylenediphenyl
rings. There may also be mentioned as examples of a bifunctional
aromatic monomer carrying, in addition, an --SO.sub.3M group:
sulphoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic
acid, and 4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7- -dicarboxylic acid.
[0121] Copolymers based on isophthalate/sulphoisophthalate, such as
copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol,
cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulphoisophthalic acid
can be used. Such polymers are sold, for example, under the trade
name Eastman AQ.RTM. by the company Eastman Chemical Products.
[0122] The optionally modified polymers of natural origin may be
chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals,
cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0123] In one embodiment, the adherent polymer may be present in
the form of solid particles in aqueous dispersion, generally known
as latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these
dispersions are well known to persons skilled in the art.
[0124] Representative aqueous dispersions of adherent polymer
include acrylic dispersions sold under the names NEOCRYL
XK-90.RTM., NEOCRYL A-1070.RTM., NEOCRYL A-1090.RTM., NEOCRYL
BT-62.RTM., NEOCRYL A-1079.RTM., NEOCRYL A-523.RTM. by the company
AVECIA-NEORESINS, DOW LATEX 432.RTM. by the company DOW CHEMICAL,
DAITOSOL 5000 AD.RTM. by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; or else the
aqueous dispersions of polyurethane which are sold under the names
NEOREZ R-981.RTM., NEOREZ R-974.RTM. by the company
AVECIA-NEORESINS, AVALURE UR-405.RTM., AVALURE UR-410.RTM., AVALURE
UR-425.RTM., AVALURE UR-450.RTM., SANCURE 875.RTM., SANCURE
861.RTM., SANCURE 878.RTM., SANCURE 2060.RTM. by the company
GOODRICH, IMPRANIL 85.RTM. by the company BAYER, AQUAMERE
H-1511.RTM. by the company HYDROMER.
[0125] Other aqueous dispersions of adherent polymers include
dispersions of polymers resulting from the free-radical
polymerization of one or more free-radical monomers inside and/or
partly at the surface, of preexisting particles of at least one
polymer chosen from polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters,
polyesteramides and/or alkyds. These polymers are generally called
hybrid polymers.
[0126] In one embodiment, the at least one adherent polymer may be
a water-soluble polymer and may be present in the aqueous phase of
the composition in solubilized form. As examples of film-forming,
water-soluble polymers, there may be mentioned
[0127] proteins such as proteins of plant origin, such as wheat or
soya bean proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratin, for
example keratin hydrolysates and sulphonic keratins;
[0128] anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers of chitin
or chitosan;
[0129] cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose,
hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl
cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, and quaternized derivatives of
cellulose;
[0130] acrylic polymers or copolymers such as polyacrylates or
polymethacrylates;
[0131] vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of
methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl
acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl
acetate;
[0132] copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl
alcohol;
[0133] optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as:
[0134] gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum;
[0135] alginates and carrageenans;
[0136] glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;
[0137] shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals;
[0138] deoxyribonucleic acid;
[0139] muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin
sulphates, and mixtures thereof.
[0140] In one embodiment, the at least one adherent polymer may be
present in at least one liquid fatty phase chosen from oils and
organic solvents such as those described above. The expression
"liquid fatty phase" is understood to mean, in the context of the
invention, a fatty phase which is liquid at room temperature
(25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, that is
10.sup.5 Pa), comprising one or more fatty substances which are
liquid at room temperature, also called oils, which are generally
compatible with each other.
[0141] In one embodiment, the liquid fatty phase comprises a
volatile oil, optionally in the form of a mixture with a
nonvolatile oil, it being possible for the oils to be chosen from
the oils cited below.
[0142] In one embodiment of the composition, the at least one
adherent polymer may be present in the form of surface-stabilized
particles dispersed in the liquid fatty phase.
[0143] The dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles may
be manufactured as described in the document EP-A-749747.
[0144] The polymer particles can be surface-stabilized using a
stabilizer which may be a block polymer, a graft polymer and/or a
random polymer, alone or in the form of a mixture.
[0145] Exemplary dispersions of film-forming polymer in the liquid
fatty phase, in the presence of stabilizing agents, are described
in the documents EP-A-749746, EP-A-923928, and EP-A-930060, the
disclosures of which are incorporated by reference herein.
[0146] The size of the polymer particles in dispersion either in
the aqueous phase or in the liquid fatty phase may range from 5 nm
to 600 nm, such as from 20 nm to 300 nm, as measured by methods
known to those skilled in the art.
[0147] In one embodiment, the adherent polymer may be solubilized
in the liquid fatty phase. In one embodiment, the film-forming
polymer can be a fat-soluble polymer.
[0148] By way of example of a fat-soluble polymer, there may be
mentioned copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly
linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester
having a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to
19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of
at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester different
from the vinyl ester already present, an .alpha.-olefin such as
.alpha.-olefins having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, an alkyl vinyl
ether such as alkyl vinyl ethers where the alkyl group comprises
from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, or an allyl or methallyl ester such as
those esters having a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon
radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the
ester group.
[0149] These copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking
agents which may be either of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or
methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene,
divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl
octadecanedioate.
[0150] As examples of these copolymers, there may be mentioned the
copolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl
laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene,
vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl
laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl
stearate/1-octadecene, vinyl acetate/1-dodecene, vinyl
stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether,
vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl 2,2-dimethyloctanoate/vinyl
laurate, allyl 2,2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl
propionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl
stearate, vinyl propionate/vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% of
divinylbenzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl laurate,
crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl
vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% of tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl
acetate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene,
vinyl acetate/1-octadecene crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene,
and allyl propionate/allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% of
divinylbenzene.
[0151] Representative fat-soluble polymers include fat-soluble
homopolymers, such as those resulting from the homopolymerization
of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl
acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20
carbon atoms.
[0152] Such fat-soluble homopolymers may be chosen from polyvinyl
stearate, polyvinyl stearate crosslinked using divinylbenzene,
diallyl ether and diallyl phthalate, polystearyl (meth)acrylate,
polyvinyl laurate, and polylauryl (meth)acrylate, it being possible
for these poly(meth)acrylates to be crosslinked using ethylene
glycol or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
[0153] The fat-soluble copolymers and homopolymers defined above
are known and exemplary copolymers and homopolymers are described
in application FR-A-2232303; they may have a weight-average
molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000, such as from 4,000
to 200,000.
[0154] Representative film-forming fat-soluble polymers which can
be used in the invention include polyalkylenes, for example
copolymers of C.sub.2-C.sub.20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkyl
celluloses with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,
C.sub.1 to C.sub.8 alkyl radical such as ethyl cellulose and propyl
cellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) such as copolymers
of vinylpyrrolidone and of a C.sub.2 to C.sub.40, such as C.sub.3
to C.sub.20, alkene. By way of example of a VP copolymer which can
be used in the invention, there may be mentioned the VP/vinyl
acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone
(PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene,
VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene and VP/acrylic
acid/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
[0155] The composition according to the invention may comprise a
film-forming aid which promotes the formation of a film with the
film-forming polymer. Such a film-forming agent may be chosen from
all the compounds known to persons skilled in the art to be capable
of fulfilling the desired function, and may be chosen from
plasticizing agents and coalescing agents.
[0156] In one embodiment, the at least one adherent polymer may be
chosen from polymers capable of forming a deposit, such as a film,
producing, at a concentration of 7% in water, a retraction of
isolated stratum corneum of more than 1% at 30.degree. C. under a
relative humidity of 40%, such as a retraction of more than 1.2%,
or more than 1.5%. This retraction can be measured using an
extensiometer, according to the method described below.
[0157] In one embodiment, the composition may comprise an aqueous
medium comprising an aqueous phase, which may be the continuous
phase of the composition.
[0158] The aqueous phase may consist essentially of water or it may
also comprise a mixture of water and a water-miscible solvent. A
water-miscible solvent is a solvent capable of forming with water a
homogeneous mixture transparent to the eye at 25.degree. C.
Exemplary water-miscible solvents include lower monoalcohols having
from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; glycols
having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene
glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol; C.sub.3-C.sub.4
ketones; and C.sub.2-C.sub.4 aldehydes.
[0159] The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible
organic solvent), may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to
95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
such as from 3% to 80% by weight, and further such as from 5% to
60% by weight.
[0160] In one embodiment, the composition may comprise at least one
volatile organic solvent or oil. The at least one volatile organic
solvent or oil may form a fatty phase, such as a continuous fatty
phase. The composition may be an anhydrous composition.
[0161] The expression "volatile organic solvent or oil" is
understood to mean, in the context of the invention, volatile
cosmetic oils and organic solvents, which are liquid at room
temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature
and atmospheric pressure, ranging, for example, from 10.sup.-2 to
300 mmHg (1.33 Pa to 40 000 Pa) such as a pressure greater than 0.3
mmHg (30 Pa). The expression "nonvolatile oil" is understood to
mean an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 10.sup.-2 mmHg
(1.33 Pa) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0162] These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils,
fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0163] The expression "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an
oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally
oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and phosphorus atoms. The volatile
hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8
to 16 carbon atoms, for example C.sub.8-C.sub.16 alkanes such as
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called
isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called
2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for
example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or Permetyls,
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and
mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum
distillates, such as those oils sold under the name Shell Solt by
the company SHELL, may also be used. The volatile solvent can be
chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon
atoms and mixtures thereof.
[0164] Representative volatile oils include volatile silicones, for
example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, such as those
having a viscosity .ltoreq.8 centistokes (8.times.10.sup.-6
m.sup.2/s), and having, for example, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms,
these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having
from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be
used in the invention, there may be mentioned
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxa- ne,
dodecamethylcyclohexa-siloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,
heptamethyl-octyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane,
octamethyltri-siloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane,
dodecamethylpenta-siloxa- ne, and mixtures thereof.
[0165] The volatile oil may be present in the composition according
to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition, such as an amount
ranging from 1% to 65% by weight.
[0166] The composition may also comprise at least one nonvolatile
oil chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or
fluorinated oils.
[0167] Exemplary nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils include:
[0168] hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as triglycerides
comprising ,esters of fatty acids and of glycerol in which the
fatty acids may have varying chain lengths from C.sub.4 to
C.sub.24, it being possible for the latter to be linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated; exemplary hydrocarbon oils
include wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil,
maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, karite oil, avocado oil, olive
oil, soyabean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil,
cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, lucerne
oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkinseed oil, sesame oil, gourd oil,
rapeseed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet
oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil,
passionflower oil, rose-muscat oil; as well as triglycerides of
caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company
Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812
and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,
[0169] synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0170] linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic
origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated
polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;
[0171] synthetic esters such as the oils of formula
R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 in which R.sub.1 is a residue of a linear or
branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and
R.sub.2 is a hydrocarbon chain, such as a branched hydrocarbon
chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that
R.sub.1+R.sub.2 is .gtoreq.10, such as for example Purcellin oil
(ketostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate,
C.sub.12 to C.sub.15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl
adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl
isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or
of polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated
esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and esters
of pentaerythritol;
[0172] fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature
containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain comprising
from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl
alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol,
2-undecylpentadecanol;
[0173] higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and
linolenic acid; and mixtures thereof.
[0174] The nonvolatile silicone oils which can be used in the
composition according to the-invention may be nonvolatile
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising
alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and/or at the silicone chain end,
the alkyl and alkoxy groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,
phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones,
phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxyd i-phenylsiloxanes,
diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxa- nes, and
(2-phenylethyl)trimethylsioloxy-silicates.
[0175] The fluorinated oils which can be used in the invention
include fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated
silicones, such as those as described in the document
EP-A-847752.
[0176] The nonvolatile oils may be present in the composition
according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by
weight, such as from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition, and further such as from 0.1% to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0177] The composition according to the invention may comprise, in
addition, at least one additional wax different from the wax of the
third solid particles described above.
[0178] Exemplary additional waxes include beeswax, lanolin wax,
Chinese wax, rice wax, Carnauba wax, certain microcrystalline
waxes, paraffin waxes, certain ozokerites, certain polyethylene
waxes, and certain waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis.
[0179] Other representative waxes include those obtained by
catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear
or branched C.sub.8-C.sub.32 fatty chains. Among these, exemplary
waxes include hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil,
hydrogenated copra oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil. Silicon waxes
or fluorinated waxes may also be used.
[0180] The additional wax present in the composition may be
dispersed in the form of particles in the aqueous medium of the
composition. These particles may have a mean size ranging from 50
nm to 50 .mu.m, and such as from 50 nm to 10 .mu.m, as measured by
methods known to those skilled in the art.
[0181] In one embodiment, the additional wax can be present in the
composition according to the invention in the form of solid
particles and form part of the additional solid particles defined
above.
[0182] The additional wax may be present in the composition
according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, such as
from 0.5% to 30% by weight, or from 1% to 20% by weight.
[0183] The composition according to the invention may contain at
least one surfactant, such as emulsifying surfactants. The at least
one surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 2 to 30% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as
from 5% to 15%. The at least one surfactant may be chosen from
anionic and nonanionic surfactants. Reference may be made to the
document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", volume
22, p. 333-432, 3.sup.rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition
of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of the surfactants,
for example, p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic and nonionic
surfactants.
[0184] Exemplary surfactants used in the composition according to
the invention may be chosen from:
[0185] nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols,
polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as
polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohols, esters of fatty
acid and of sucrose, esters of alkyl glucose, such as
polyoxyethylenated fatty esters of C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl glucose,
and mixtures thereof;
[0186] anionic surfactants: C.sub.16-C.sub.30 fatty acids
neutralized with amines, aqueous ammonia or alkaline salts and
mixtures thereof; oxyethylenated acrylic acid/monostearyl itaconate
copolymer (20 EO) as an aqueous dispersion at 30% by weight sold
under the name "STRUCTURE 2001" by the company National Starch,
ethoxylated acrylic acid/monocetyl itaconate copolymer (20 EO) as
an aqueous dispersion at 30% sold under the name "STRUCTURE 3001"
by the company National Starch.
[0187] In one embodiment, the at least one surfactant allow the
production of an oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsion.
[0188] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
a coloring substance such as pulverulent coloring substances,
fat-soluble colorants, water-soluble colorants. This coloring
substance may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 50% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, such as
from 0.01% to 30% by weight.
[0189] The pulverulent coloring substances may be chosen from
pigments and pearlescent agents.
[0190] The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or
organic, coated or otherwise. Representative inorganic pigments
include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium,
zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides,
manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric
blue. Representative organic pigments include carbon black,
pigments of the D & C type, and lacquers based on carmine,
barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.
[0191] The pearlescent agents may be chosen from white pearlescent
pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride,
colored pearlescent pigments such as mica-titanium with iron
oxides, mica-titanium with ferric blue or chromium oxide,
mica-titanium with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type as
well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0192] The fat-soluble colorants include, for example, Sudan red,
D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, .beta.-carotene, soyabean oil,
Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5,
quinoline yellow, annatto. The water-soluble colorants include, for
example, sugarbeet juice and methylene blue.
[0193] The composition of the invention may comprise, in addition,
any additive conventionally used in cosmetics, such as
antioxidants, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizing
agents, thickeners, plasticizers, coalescing agents, cosmetic or
dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients,
moisturizers, vitamins, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof. These
additives may be present in the composition in an amount ranging
from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, such as
from 0.01 to 10% (if present).
[0194] The composition according to the invention may be provided
in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a
wax-in-water dispersion or alternatively may be an anhydrous
composition.
[0195] Of course persons skilled in the art will be careful to
choose the possible additional additives and/or their quantity such
that the advantageous properties of the composition according to
the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the addition
envisaged.
[0196] The composition according to the invention may be
manufactured by known methods which are generally used in the
cosmetic or dermatological field.
[0197] In one embodiment, the composition according to the
invention does not contain:
[0198] a) a mixture of 41% of water, 10% of isododecane, 5% of
ethanol, 4% of hectorite, and 10% of black iron oxide; or
[0199] b) a mixture of 62.9% of water, 10% of stearic acid, 3% of
triethanolamine, 4% of zinc oxide, and 10% of black iron oxide, the
percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0200] The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the
following examples.
[0201] Method of Measuring the Density of Solid Particles:
[0202] The apparent density of solid particles is measured using a
Gay-Lussac pycnometer.
[0203] A precision scale (precision of 1 mg) is used and the
measurements are carried out in a thermostatic chamber at
25.degree. C. (.+-.0.5.degree. C.). Two reference liquids having a
density d, which are demineralized water (d=1000 kg/m.sup.3) and
heptane (d=683.7 kg/m.sup.3) are also used. The density of the
solid particles is measured with each reference liquid.
[0204] The pycnometer and the products used for carrying out the
measurement are placed at the temperature of 25.degree. C. The
masses cited below are expressed in kilograms.
[0205] The mass M0 of the pycnometer is measured, then the
pycnometer is completely filled with the reference liquid used,
avoiding introducing air bubbles. The mass M1 of the filled
pycnometer is measured.
[0206] A mixture of mass M2 of the material whose density d2 it is
desired to measure with a mass M3 of reference liquid is then
prepared. The mixture is stirred and then just before the end of
stirring, the pycnometer is filled with this mixture and the mass
M4 of the filled pycnometer is measured. The mass M4-M0 of the
mixture present in the pycnometer is thus measured.
[0207] The pycnometer having a constant filling volume, it is
therefore possible to establish the following relationship:
(M1-M0)/d=(M2/d2+M3/d).- times.(M4-M0)/(M2+M3) This relationship
makes it possible to calculate the value of the density d2 of the
solid particles, expressed in kg/m.sup.3. A value of the density of
the solid particles is thus determined for each of the reference
liquids. The highest value (among the density measured with
distilled water and the density measured with heptane) is selected
as value of the density for the determination of the volume
fraction of the solid particles.
[0208] Method for Measuring Retraction:
[0209] The length of a test piece of isolated stratum corneum is
measured before treatment and after treatment, followed by
determining the percentage retraction of the test piece.
[0210] Test pieces of 1 cm.times.0.4 cm of stratum corneum are used
which have a thickness ranging from 10 to 20 .mu.m placed on the
extensiometer MTT 610 marketed by the company DIASTRON.
[0211] The test piece is placed between 2 jaws and left for 12
hours in an atmosphere at 30.degree. C. and 40% relative
humidity.
[0212] The test piece is drawn, at the rate of 2 mm/minute, by a
length of between 5 and 10% of the initial length in order to
determine the length l.sub.1 from which the test piece begins to
exert a force on the jaws and which is detected by the
apparatus.
[0213] The test piece is then relaxed and then 2 mg of an aqueous
composition containing 7% by weight of polymer are applied to the
stratum corneum. After evaporation of water from the composition,
the test piece is drawn under the same conditions as those
described above in order to also determine the length l.sub.2 for
the treated test piece.
[0214] The percentage retraction is determined by the ratio:
100.times.(l.sub.2--l.sub.1)/l.sub.1.
EXAMPLE 1
[0215] a) An aqueous beeswax dispersion is prepared by mixing, at
95.degree. C., 40 g of beeswax, 4 g of polyoxyethylenated lauryl
alcohol surfactant containing 23 ethylene oxide units sold under
the name "BRIJ 35" by the company UNICHEMA and 56 g of water heated
to 95.degree. C., with stirring using an Ultraturrax stirrer, until
an aqueous wax dispersion having a mean particle size of about 300
nm is obtained.
[0216] b) A mascara having the following composition is
prepared:
1 Polyurethane as a 35% aqueous dispersion of 30 g AS polymer
(AVALURE UR 410 from Goodrich) Beeswax 3 g Nylon-12 powder (Orgasol
2002 from Atochem) 5 g Black iron oxide (Sicovit black 85E172 from
BASF) 5 9 Hydroxyethylcellulose (Cellosize QP4400M from 1 g
Amerchol) Propylene glycol 5 g Surfactant (Brij 35) 0.3 g Water qs
100 g
[0217] This composition is prepared by mixing 7.5 g of the wax
dispersion described in point a) above with the complementary
aqueous fraction comprising the other ingredients.
[0218] A mascara is obtained whose nonvolatile fraction (formed of
all the constituents except water) contains a volume fraction of
solid particles (wax, nylon, black iron oxide) equal to 28%
(relative to the total volume of the nonvolatile fraction); the
volume fraction of the main particles in the context of the present
invention (black iron oxide and nylon) represents 78.6% of the
total volume of the solid particles.
[0219] The eyelashes to which this mascara has been applied as
make-up exhibit good curling.
EXAMPLE 2
[0220] A mascara having the following composition is prepared:
2 Polyurethane as a 35% aqueous dispersion of 15 g AS polymer
(AVALURE UR 410 from Goodrich) Styrene acrylic copolymer as a 30%
aqueous 6.5 g AS dispersion of polymer (Joncryl SCX 8082 from
Johnson Polymers)* Black iron oxide (Sicovit black 85E172 from
BASF) 2.5 g Hydroxyethylcellulose (Cellosize QP4400M from 0.5 g
Amerchol) Propylene glycol 2.5 g Water qs 100 g *latex having a
glass transition temperature Tg = 102.degree. C.
[0221] A mascara is obtained whose nonvolatile fraction (formed of
all the constituents except water) contains a volume fraction of
solid particles (styrene/acrylic copolymer, black iron oxide) equal
to 28% (relative to the total volume of the nonvolatile fraction);
the volume fraction of the main particles in the context of the
present invention (black iron oxide and styrene/acrylic copolymer)
represents 100% of the total volume of the solid particles.
[0222] The eyelashes to which this mascara has been applied as
make-up exhibit good curling.
EXAMPLE 3
[0223] a) A dispersion of hard wax is prepared by mixing, at
95.degree. C., 40 g of wax sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L
57" by the company SOPHIM, 4 g of polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol
surfactant containing 23 ethylene oxide units sold under the name
"BRIJ 35" by the company UNICHEMA and 56 g of water heated to
95.degree. C., with stirring using an Ultraturrax stirrer, until an
aqueous wax dispersion having a mean particle size of about 300 nm
is obtained.
[0224] b) A mascara having the following composition is
prepared:
3 Polyurethane as a 35% aqueous dispersion of 30 g AS polymer
(AVALURE UR 410 from Goodrich) Wax (PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57 from the
13 g company SOPHIM) Black iron oxide (Sicovit black 85E172 from
BASF) 5 g Hydroxyethylcellulose (Cellosize QP4400M from 1 g
Amerchol) Propylene glycol 5 g Surfactant (Brij 35) 1.3 g Water qs
100 g
[0225] This composition is prepared by mixing 32.5 g of the wax
dispersion described in point a) above with the complementary
aqueous fraction comprising the other ingredients.
[0226] A mascara is obtained whose nonvolatile fraction (formed of
all the constituents except water) contains a volume fraction of
solid particles (wax, black iron oxide) equal to 28% (relative to
the total volume of the nonvolatile fraction); the volume fraction
of the main particles in the context of the present invention
(black iron oxide and wax) represents 100% of the total volume of
the solid particles.
[0227] The eyelashes to which this mascara has been applied as
make-up exhibit good curling.
* * * * *