U.S. patent application number 10/218151 was filed with the patent office on 2003-03-27 for multi-ply fabric, uses and manufacture thereof.
This patent application is currently assigned to INTERNATIONAL MARKETING & DESIGN. Invention is credited to Blake, Steven A..
Application Number | 20030056703 10/218151 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 25053426 |
Filed Date | 2003-03-27 |
United States Patent
Application |
20030056703 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Blake, Steven A. |
March 27, 2003 |
Multi-ply fabric, uses and manufacture thereof
Abstract
In the proces of defining quilted fabric, non-stretchable,
stretchable and interior layers of materials are wound on separate
rollers. Then the layers are positively fed from the rollers to a
bi-directional acting sewing assembly wherein the non-stretchable
layer is provided with zero elongation and the stretchable layer is
provided with 25 to 300 percent stretch. Next, the arranged layers
are sewn in sets of sinusoidal-like seam patterns. Finally the
stretched layer is permitted to relax to a natural state wherein a
series of puffs are formed in rows across the layer normal to
stretch direction of the stretchable layer. Result: columns of
puffs of even numbered rows are aligned with each other but are
laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows by a
constant amount.
Inventors: |
Blake, Steven A.; (Redwood
City, CA) |
Correspondence
Address: |
HAROLD D. MESSNER
1021 NEBRASKA ST.
VALLEJO
CA
94590
US
|
Assignee: |
INTERNATIONAL MARKETING &
DESIGN
|
Family ID: |
25053426 |
Appl. No.: |
10/218151 |
Filed: |
August 13, 2002 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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10218151 |
Aug 13, 2002 |
|
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09758874 |
Jan 10, 2001 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
112/475.08 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A41D 31/00 20130101;
D06J 1/12 20130101; D05B 11/00 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
112/475.08 |
International
Class: |
D05B 011/00 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A process for forming a puffed, smock-like quilted fabric
comprising an exterior layer of non-stretchable material and
bi-axial stretchable material overlaying a soft interior layer
stitched together in automated manner, comprising the steps of: (a)
winding non-stretchable and stretchable layers on separate rollers,
(b) after placing the rollers in a quilting arrangement, positively
feeding the layers from the rollers to sewing head arrangement to
provide essentially zero elongation for the non-stretchable layer
and to provide both axial and lateral elongation for the bi-xial
stretchable layer simultaneously such that elongation factors Ax
and Ay are additive to define a total elongation in the range of
1.25 to 3.00 times the relaxed state of the stretchable layer, (c)
sewing the arranged layers in sets of sinusoidal-like seam patterns
across the layers wherein each of said sinusoidal like seam
patterns has an axis of formation essentially parallel to said
axial stretch direction of the bi-axial stretchable layer, (d)
relaxing the stretchable layer to relax to a natural state wherein
a series of puffs are formed in rows across the layers normal to
said axial stretch direction the stretchable layer, and columns of
puffs of even numbered rows are aligned with each other but are
laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows a
constant amount thereby creating an aesthetically pleasing finished
fabric.
2. The process of claim 1 in which side-by-side seam patterns are
complementary, wherein said seam patterns are each laterally
aligned in a direction normal to the stretch direction of the
stretchable layer relative to said each axis of formation of the
seam patterns.
3. The process of claim 1 in which said non-stretchable layer has
an ultimate tensile strength of known value and wherein tensioning
stretch force applied to the non-stretchable and stretchable layers
is less than said ultimate tensile strength for the non-stretchable
layer.
4. A process for forming a puffed, smock-like quilted finished
fabric comprising an exterior layer of non-stretchable material and
an interior layer of bi-axial stretchable interior material,
stitched together in automated manner, comprising the steps of: (a)
winding non-stretchable and stretchable layers on separate rollers.
(b) after placing the rollers in a quilting arrangement, positively
feeding the layers from the rollers to sewing head arrangement to
provide essentially zero elongation for the non-stretchable layer
and to provide both axial and lateral elongation for the biaxial
stretchable layer simultaneously such that elongation in the axial
and lateral direction are additive to define a total elongation in
the range of 100 to 250 per cent (c) sewing the arranged layers in
sets of sinusoidal-like seam patterns across the layers wherein
each of said seam patterns has an axis of formation essentially
parallel to said axial stretch direction of the bi-axial
stretchable layer, (d) allowing the stretchable layer to relax to a
natural state wherein a series of puffs are formed in rows across
the layers normal to said axial stretch direction of the
stretchable layer thereby creating an aesthetically pleasing
finished fabric.
5. The process of claim 4 in which puffs of even numbered row are
columnarly aligned with each other but being laterally offset with
respect to puffs of odd numbered rows by a constant amount thereby
creating an aesthetically pleasing finished fabric.
6. The process of claim 5 in which each of said series of puffs is
defined by a length L parallel to said axial stretch direction of
the stretchable layer and wherein said constant offset amount is
equal to L/2.
7. A puffed, smock-like quilted finished fabric comprising an
exterior layer of non-stretchable material and an interior layer of
bi-axial stretchable material stitched together in automated manner
having a series of puffs and columns of even number in a constant
amount, formed by the steps of: (a) winding non-stretchable and
stretchable layers on separate rollers. (b) positively feeding the
layers from the rollers to sewing head arrangement to provide
essentially zero elongation for the non-stretchable layer and to
provide both axial and lateral elongation for the bi-axial
stretchable layer simultaneously such that elongation in the axial
and lateral direction are additive to define a total elongation in
the range of 25 to 300 per cent of the stretchable layer, (c)
sewing the arranged layers in sets of sinusoidal-like seam patterns
across the layers wherein each of said sinusoidal-like seam
patterns have an axis of formation essentially parallel to said
axial stretch direction of the bi-axial stretchable layer, (d)
allowing the stretchable layer to relax to a natural state wherein
a series of puffs are formed in rows across the layers normal to
said axial stretch direction the stretchable layer, and columns of
puffs of even numbered rows are aligned with each other but are
laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows a
constant amount thereby creating an aesthetically pleasing finished
fabric.
8. The fabric of claim 7 in which each of said series of puffs is
defined by a length L parallel to said axial stretch direction of
the stretchable layer and wherein said constant offset amount is
equal to L/2.
9. The fabric of claim 7 in which side-by-side seam patterns are
complementary wherein maximum peaks and troughs of each are
laterally aligned in a direction normal to said axial stretch
direction of the stretchable layer relative to said each axis of
formation of the seam patterns.
10. The fabric of claim 7 in which said non-stretchable and
interior layers have separate ultimate tensile strengths and
wherein tensioning stretch force app lied to the non-stretchable
and stretchable layers is less than said ultimate tensile strength
for the non-stretchable layer.
11. The fabric of claim 7 formed into a jacket with attached collar
comprising an outer shell having a pair of front panels attached to
a waistband, a rear panel attached to said front panels via a pair
of shoulder seams, and sleeves attached via arcuato seams to said
front and rear panels, said puffs associated with said front and
rear panels and said sleeves defining said rows wherein said rows
run generally vertically between said waistband and said collar
wherein the vertical pattern of said puffs are generally slimming
for the user and pleasing to the eye of the on-looker.
12. The fabric of claim 7 formed into a cover for use in forming a
pillow.
13. The fabric of claim 7 formed into a cover for use in covering
an automotive seat.
Description
RELATED PRIOR PATENTS
[0001] In my prior patents, viz., U.S. Pat. No. 5,437,239 and U.S.
Pat. No. 5,707,709, there are set forth fabrics, processes and uses
involving at least one stretchable layer that is stretched during
formation and then allowed to relax thereafter. As a result, a
series of puffs are formed in rows across the layers normal to the
axial stretch direction and in columns. The columns of puffs of
even numbered rows are aligned with each other with each other but
are laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows a
constant amount thereby creating an aesthetically pleasing finished
fabric. It has now been discovered that if the stretchable layer is
stretched in both the axial and laterial
directions--simultaneously--during formation, there is improved
throughput while retaining an aesthetically pleasing finished
fabric.
SCOPE OF THE INVENTION
[0002] This invention relates to an improved puffed, quilt-like
smocked fabric consisting of a series of layers stitched together
in automated manner. In one aspect of the invention, only two
layers are used and the second interior layer is fed from a roller
via a series of positive acting driver rollers wherein the second
layer is stretching in both the axial and laterial directions
simultaneously, as lateral direction (or y direction)are thus
separately controlled such that the elongation factors Ax and By
are additive to define a total elongation that is in the range of
1.25 to 3.00 normalized to the relaxed state of the second layer.
In another aspect of the invention, three layers are used in which
first and second exterior layers overlay a soft interior layer
wherein the second layer undergoes axial and lateral elongation.
That is to say, the three layers are fed from a roller via a series
of positive acting driver rollers wherein the second layer is
stretching in both the axial and lateral directions simultaneously,
as stitching occurs. Again, elongations in the axial direction (or
x direction) and in the lateral direction (or y direction)are
separately controlled such that the elongation factors Ax and By
are additive to define a total elongation in the range of 1.25 to
3.00 times the normal relaxed state of the second layer.
[0003] The stitching head undergoes cam controlled lateral movement
as a function of axial movement of the layers comprising the fabric
of the invention. Result: a saw-toothed stitch pattern is defined
when viewed from the second layer but creating worm-like folds when
viewed from the outer layer.
DEFINITIONS
[0004] These terms are used in this document and are defined as
follows:
[0005] SMOCKING--A decorative stitching used in gathering cloth to
make it hang in folds.
[0006] QUILT--To stitch together as two pieces of cloth with a soft
innerlayer in lines or patterns of square, longitudinal or lateral
extending lines.
[0007] FABRIC--Cloth formed by fibers by the processes of weaving,
knitting, pressing etc., wherein the fibers can be formed from
naturally occurring products such as wool , hair, cotton, flax,
hemp or can be formed of synthetic fibers.
[0008] FIBER--The fundamental unit used in the fabrication of
textile yarns and fabrics. A unit used in the fabrication of
textile yarns and fabrics. A unit of matter characterized by having
a length at least 100 times its diameter or width, and having
definitely preferred orientation of its crystal unit cells with
respect to a specific axis.
[0009] SYNTHETIC TEXTILES--A group of man-made fibers made by
chemical synthesis or by chemical compounds through
interaction.
[0010] STRETCH FABRICS--Cloths that have properties of elongation
and recovery from using Spandex and like yarns.
[0011] STRETCH YARNS--Specially treated, synthetic continuous
filament yarn. Examples: giving torque or false twist; by deforming
them. Merits are rapid and near completed recovery and improved
holding power.
[0012] TRIAXIAL STRETCH FABRIC--Cloths that have the ability to
stretch and recover along x, y and bias axes in equalized segments,
i.e., segment measurements per common length per common tensile
force per x, y or bias directions are equalized.
[0013] BIAXIAL STRETCH FABRIC--Cloths that have the ability to
stretch and recover along both the bias axis and one of the x or y
axis is minimum.
[0014] YARN--A continuous string of textile fibers such as spun or
continuous filament yarns. Spun yarn is short fibers while the
latter is a grouping of endless parallel continuous filaments, its
the basic material made into fabric, thread, twine or cable. It can
be woven, knotted, crocheted, tatted, netted or braided depending
on the result desired and the character of the yarn. Continuous
filament yarns are formed of rayon, nylon and other synthetic
textiles.
[0015] YARN NUMBER--A conventional measure of fineness of yarn. In
spun yarns, a lower number means the heavier the yarn while a
higher number refers to finer-sized yarns. Man-made fibers are
measured in deniers and is the reverse of the above, viz., lower
number means finer-sized yarns and vice versa.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0016] In my prior patents, viz., U.S. Pat. No. 5,437,239 and U.S.
Pat. No. 5,707,709, there are set forth fabrics, processes and uses
involving at least one stretchable layer that is stretched during
formation and then allowed to relax thereafter. As a result, a
series of puffs are formed in rows across the layers normal to the
axial stretch direction and in columns. The columns of puffs of
even numbered rows are aligned with each other with each other but
are laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows a
constant amount thereby creating an aesthetically pleasing finished
fabric. It has now been discovered that if the stretchable layer is
stretched in both the axial and lateral
directions-simultaneously-during formation, there is improved
throughput while retaining an aesthetically pleasing finished
fabric.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0017] The present invention relates to an improved puffed,
smocklike quilted fabric consisting of at least a natural resilient
first layer such as velvet, silk or denim overlaying a stretchable
second layer. These layers are stitched together in an automated
manner. The second layer is a synthetic long chain polymer
comprising at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane called
"Spandex", and is fed from a roller via positive pulling and
shaping roller system that includes a lateral shaping quide and
axial pulling driver roller acting through a series of pole
rollers. Result: the second layer undergoes stretching in both the
axial and lateral directions simultaneously, as stitching occurs.
Elongations in the axial direction (or x direction) and in the
laterial direction (or y direction) are defined elongation factors
Ax and By which are additive to define a total elongation in the
range of 1.25 to 3.00 times the normal relaxed state of the second
layer as the passes through a multiple stitching head. The
stitching head undergoes cam controlled lateral movement as a
function of axial movement of the fabric to provide a puffed,
smock-like quilted fabric. The fabric is well adapted for use in
making garments such coats as well a coverings for pillows and
automotive seats.
[0018] The biaxial stretching capacity of the second layer is
normally between 600 to 700% of its normal relaxed state. Hence
axial and lateral stretching forces that are applied to the second
layer in the range of 1.25 to 3 times the relaxed state, is easily
achieved. Note that previously it was explained that the second
layer is called by the generic name "Spandex". Spandex itself is
defined as a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming
substance is a long chin synthetic polymer comprising at least 85%
of a segmented polyurethane (Source: FTC). Examples are Lycra,
Glospan and Numa, all trademarked fabrics, In the manufacturing
process of Lycra, a trademark of DuPont Company, the segmented
polyurethane structure is achieved by reacting dilsocyanates with
long chain glycols which are usually polyester or polyethers of
1000 to 2000 molecular weight range. The reaction product is then
chain extended through the use of glycol, diamine or water. This
gives the final polymer which is converted into fibers by dry
spinning. In the finished fiber the chains are randomly oriented
and when stretched, the chains become oriented but exhibit
spontaneous recovery to the disordered state upon release of the
force acting on the fiber.
[0019] During manufacture of the fabric of the invention, the
second layer formed of "Spandex" is wound on a roller. The roller
is controlled via a positive pulling and shaping roller system that
includes a lateral shaping quide and axial pulling driver roller
acting in concert with a series of pole rollers. Result: the second
layer undergoes stretching in both the axial and lateral directions
simultaneously, as stitching occurs. The pulling and shaping roller
system also provides uniform movement of the first (upper) layer
but only in an axial direction without positive braking pressure
being applied. The roller containing the first and second layers
are pulled toward the multiple sewing head by a roller adjacent to
a lateraling shaping guide and thence through a series of pole
rollers to a take-up roller.
[0020] The multiple sewing head is provided with a cam assembly the
provides of lateral movement of the plurality of threaded needles
to provide side-by-side sinusoidal line patterns. The plurality of
threaded needles are divided into a first set provided with common
lateral movement through a first cam and cam follower subassembly.
Between neighboring needles of the first set, there is provided a
needles of the second set. Such needles is provided with opposite
movement through a second cam and cam follower subassembly. As a
result, its sinusoidal line pattern is complementary to line
pattern of the first set. After the quilted fabric passes
downstream of the driver, the second layer of Spandex is permitted
to return to it relaxed state and the finished fabric is wound
about a final roller. The finished fabric as viewed from the first
layer in its relaxed state comprises rows of elongated puffs
extending above a base line and of uniform length normal to the
precursor initial stretch direction of the second layer defined
during sewing. The ends of adjacent puffs of any row are crimped by
stitching so that any one row of puffs resembles a string of
attached wieners. Between successive rows, the crimped ends of the
puffs of one row are offset relative to he crimped ends of its next
adjacent neighboring row of puffs. Thus, the columns of puffs of
every other row are aligned but successive columns are offset. As a
result, an aesthetically pleasing fabric is formed that has be
useful in making coats (the rows of puffs running in vertical
manner from the neck toward the belt and sleeves) and in padding
walls of a casket as well as a covering for pillows and automotive
seats.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS
[0021] FIG. 1 is a schematic view illustrating the process by which
invention is performed including a series of rollers carrying
thereon first and second layers in an axial direction toward a
sewing head, the laying being pulled in a positive sense by a
positive roller adjacent to a lateral shaping guide thence through
the sewing head and then onto a take-up roller;
[0022] FIG. 2 is an end view, partially cut-away, of the take-up
roller about the second layer is wound having a braking system;
[0023] FIG. 3 is a detail side view, partially schematic, of the
cam assembly for providing bilateral, independent movement of the
two sets of needles comprising the multiple needle head wherein
sinusoidal stitching pattern is provided the layers passing
adjacent to the needles head;
[0024] FIG. 4 is a plan view of the puffed fabric wound of he take
up roller of FIG. 1 in which the second layer is in relaxed
state:
[0025] FIGS. 5 and 6 are vertical sections taken along line 5-5 and
6-6, respectively, of FIG. 4;
[0026] FIG. 7 is bottom view of the puffed fabric of FIG. 4;
[0027] FIG. 8 is a plan view of the puffed fabric of FIG. 4;
[0028] FIG. 9 is a bottom view of the puffed fabric of FIG. 4;
[0029] FIG. 10 is a front view of a buttoned coat constructed with
the puffed fabric of the invention in which rows of puffs run in a
vertical manner;
[0030] FIG. 11 is a front view of the coat of FIG. 10;
[0031] FIG. 12 is a top view of a covering that is used to cover a
pillow or an automotive seat;
[0032] FIG. 13 is a front perspective view of the lateral guide of
the pulling and shaping system of FIG. 1.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0033] FIG. 1 illustrates in schematic fashion, an assembly 9 by
which the process of the present invention is performed. As shown,
a series of rollers 10, 11, 12, and are depicted upstream of a
multiple sewing head assembly 14 and together with lateral guide 13
comprise a pulling and guiding assembly 8. The function of the
pulling guiding assembly 8 is explained in more detail below.
Downstream from the sewing head assembly 14 is a series of pole
rollers 15a, 15b, and 15c and take-up roller 16. A non-stretch
layer 20 such as velvet, silk and/or denim is wound about the
roller 10 and is fed upward toward the sewing head assembly 14 via
drive roller 11i in contact with upper surface 20a of the layer 20.
A stretchable layer 22 is wound about feed roller 12 and travels
upward into contact with the non-stretch layer 20 at the driver
roller 11. A lower surface 22a of the stretchable layer 22 is
placed in contact with lateral guide 13 and is forced into lateral
stretching as explained below. Suffice to say, the layers 20, 22
pass between the drive roller 11 and lateral stretching guide 13 so
that they are placed in planar face-to-face relationship with the
non-stretch layer above the stretchable layer 22 but the
stretchable layer 22 undergoes both axial and lateral stretching.
That is to say, as the layers 20, 22 pass between the positive
roller 11 and the lateral guide 13 under positive axial pressure
(because of positive axial pressure applied by the roller 11), the
stretchable layer 22 passes over arcuate surface 13a of the lateral
guide 13 and is undergoes lateral stretching.
[0034] FIG. 13 shows how lateral stretching occurs.
[0035] As shown, the lateral guide 13 includes a series of ridges
13b across the surface 13a which are shaped so that the right-hand
set 5 spirals to the right as viewed starting from edge 13d, and
the left-hand set 6 spirals to the left. Result: assuming that
centerlines of the layer 22 coincides with centerline 13e of the
guide 13, lateral stretching occurs as a function of the angle A of
the ridges 13b in the manner of arrows 4. Attachment of the lateral
guide 13 is via threads of bolts 13c attached at upper edge
13e.
[0036] Returning to FIG. 1, the formed layers 20, 22 pass between
the sewing head assembly 14 under the positive axial and lateral
pressure provided by roller 11 and lateral guide 13. The rollers 10
and 12 are thus unwound under the positive forces applied thereto
by the latter at the downstream side of the sewing head assembly
14. The roller 12 is provided with conventional tension controls
for holding proper tension on the layer 22. The same tension is
also applied to positive pole rollers 15a, 15b and 15c on the
upstream stream side of the sewing head assembly 14. Once in
rotation, the rollers 10, 11 and 12 tend to rotate with constant
velocities. In this regard, the rollers 10 and 12 include braking
assembly 30, as shown in FIG. 2. The purpose of the braking
assembly 30: to cause biaxial stretching of the lower layer 22
wound about roller 12 (see FIG. 1) in an amount 25 to 300% of the
relaxed state of the layer 22, as previously mentioned, as well as
to cause 0% elongation of the top layer 20. After the lower layer
22 is permitted to relax the finished fabric 17 of the invention is
wound about take-up roller 16.
[0037] FIG. 2 shows the braking assembly 30 in more detail. As
shown, FIG. 2 relates to roller 12 but the description which
follows is also germane to similar braking assemblies associated
with the roller 10. As shown, end 31 of the roller 12 rotates
within a stationary drum 32 attached to upright standard 33. The
drum 32 has an end wall 34 and side wall 35 that extend adjacent to
the end 31 of the roller 12. The end wall 34 includes a hub 36 that
attaches to the upright standard 33. Note that the circumferencial
side wall 34 extends over a portion of the circuferential surface
37 of the roller 12. An arcuate brake pad 38 is placed in contact
with outer surface 37 of the roller 12 and is capable of radial
movement in the direction of arrow 39 via bolts 40 having interior
ends that butt against the pad 38. As shown, the bolts 40 attach to
and through threaded openings (not shown) in the side wall 35 of
the drum 32. Note that the tension applied by the separate brake
assemblies 30 to the rollers 10 and 12 of FIG. 1 is separately
adjustable. The purpose of the adjustments: to cause biaxial
stretching of the lower layer 22 in an amount 25 to 300% of the
relaxed state of the layer 22, as previously mentioned as well as
to cause 0% elongation of the top layer 20. Since the amount of
tension for the rollers 10, 12 is constant, the maximum braking or
friction force for rollers 10, 12 is a function of the elongation
strength of the layers 20, 22. However, such tension force is below
the ultimate strength of the layer 20 but is sufficient to provide
between 25 to 300% elongation of the layer 22.
[0038] Returning to FIG. 1, while the sewing head assembly 14 is
typical for the purpose of stitching the layers 20-22 together
using side-by-side needle bars 49a, 49b having separate side walls
46 into which needles 47 are attached. The needle bars 49a, 49b are
also controlled to undergo separate, lateral movement, however. The
direction of such lateral movement is depicted by arrow 50 in FIG.
3. In addition, the needles 47 of the needle bars 49a, 49b also
undergo typical vertical movement in the direction of arrow 51. As
a result, thread releasably attached to the needles 47 is caused to
enter the layers 20, 22 to provide typical stitching patterns 53,
54 of FIGS. 8 and 9 as viewed from the top layer 20 and bottom
layer 22, respectively.
[0039] Lateral movement of the needle bars 49a, 49b is depicted in
detail in FIG. 3.
[0040] As shown, the needle bar 49a has an end 55 forming a cam
follower surface in contact with surface 57 of cam subassembly 58.
The end 55 is provided positive surface tension via spring 60 so
that the interaction of the shape of the surface 57 of the rotating
cam 58a of the cam subassembly 58 provides for left-hand stitchings
53a, 54a of the patterns 53, 54 respectively shown in FIGS. 8 and
9. Returning to FIG. 3, note that needle bar 49a is open along its
bottom edge 59. As a consequence the needles 47 associated with the
needle bar 49a form a first set, while the needles 47 associated
with the needle bar 49b forms a second set. Between neighboring
needles 47 of the first set, there is a needle 47 of the second set
controlled by needle bar 49b.
[0041] That is to say, the needle bar 49b has an end 64 forming a
cam follower surface in contact with surface 67 of cam 68a of cam
subassembly 68. The end 64 is provided positive surface tension via
spring 69 so that the interaction of the shape of the surface 67 of
the rotating cam 68a of the cam subassembly 68 provides for the
right-hand stitchings 53b, 54b of the patterns 53, 54, respectively
shown in FIGS. 8 and 9. Note in FIGS. 8 and 9 that uniform tension
has been applied to the finshed fabric 17 in the direction of arrow
60 to provide biaxial stretch as the needle bars 49a, 49b move
laterally to the direction of application of the tensil force (T),
see FIG. 1. In addition, the seam patterns 53, 54 are seen each to
be sinusoidal-like in plan view, oscillating about axes of
formation 62 wherein peaks 53b, 54b and troughs 53c, 54c of
side-by-side seams laterally coincide in a direction normal to
arrow 60.
[0042] As a result of the relative stetching of the layer 22 as the
complementary sinudoidal stitch patterns 53, 54 of FIGS. 8 and 9
are laid down, there is provided a series of improved puffs 70 of
the surface of layer 20 and in layer 22 as shown in FIGS. 4 and 7,
respectively. Note that in FIG. 4, the puffs 70 are shaped as shown
as soon as the the pre-tensioning force in the direction of arrows
60 in FIGS. 8 and 9 are released and the layer 22 of FIG. 7 is
permitted to relax as the finished fabric 17 of FIG. 1 is wound
about take-up roller 16. Note that the puffs 73 appear on the
surface of the layer 20 and layer 22 as shown in FIGS. 4 and 7,
respectively.
[0043] FIGS. 5 and 6 are sections that illustrate the shape of the
puffs 70 in more detail as viewed along columnar lines 5-5 and 6-6
of FIGS. 5 and 6, respectively.
[0044] Note in FIG. 5 that the section is taken through rows R1, R2
. . . Rx of the puffs 70 of FIG. 4 such that the section line of
the odd rows R1, R3, R5 . . . passes through arcuate ends 71 of the
puffs 70 of such odd rows. Thus the puffs 70 of the odd numbered
rows R1, R3 . . . in FIG. 4 are columnarly aligned. Also the puffs
of the even numbered rows R2, R4 . . . are columarly aligned but
offset from puffs 70 of the odd numbered rows R1, R3 . . . But the
section line is seen to also bisect the puffs 70 of the even rows
R2, R4 . . . at maximum height h of each puff 70. As a result, the
puffs 70 of the even rows R2, R4 . . . define cavities 72 between
top and bottom layers 20, 22.
[0045] While the layers 20 22 forming the puffs 70 of the odd rows
R1, R3 . . . follow the same contour so that the cavities 73 are of
minimum volume.
[0046] Note in FIG. 6 that the section is taken through rows R1, R2
. . . Rx of the puffs 70 at a columnar location in which the height
h of the puffs 70 is seen to be essentially constant from
row-to-row. Moreover, the cavities 72, 73 of the rows R1, R2, R3 .
. . are of the same shape and volume. The cavities 72, 73 are
formed between top and bottom layers 20, 22.
[0047] But referring again to FIG. 4, the puffs 70 of odd numbered
rows R1, R3, R5 . . . are seen to be columnarly aligned. Also the
puffs 70 of the even numbered rows R2, R4, R6 . . . are likewise
columnarly aligned but are offset from puffs 70 of the odd numbered
rows R1, R3 . . . by a constant amount, say equal to L/2 where L is
the length of each puff 70.
[0048] FIGS. 10 and 11 illustrate a garment 80 in the form of a
jacket comprising an outer shell 81 formed of the finished fabric
17 associated with take-up roller 16, see FIG. 1. The outer shell
81 has a pair of front panels 82, 83 attached to a waistband 79 and
a rear panel 85. The rear panel 85 is attached to the front panels
via shoulder seams 84. Sleeves 86 are also a component of the outer
shell 81 and are attached via an arcuate set of seams 87 to the
front and rear panels 82, 83 and 85. An attached collar 86, front
button bands 87, 88 and inner liner 89, complete the garment 80.
The collar 86 attaches to the upper edges of the front and rear
panels 82, 83 and 85. The button bands 87, 88 attach vertically
between the collar 86 and the waistband 79 and laterally via side
edges 90 of front panels 82, 83. Note that the puffs 70 of the
outer shell 81 has rows R1, R2, R3 . . . that run generally in a
vertical pattern between the waistband 79 and the collar 86. As a
result, the vertical line of the puffs 70 is generally slimming to
the user and pleasing to the eye of the on-looker.
[0049] FIG. 12 is a top view of a cover 92 for use in association
with a pillow or with an automotive seat. If the cover 92 is used
with a pillow, the cover 92 would include both front and rear panel
93, 94 but for use in covering an automotive seat, the cover 92
would only include a single panel 93 or 94 but not both. Each such
panel 93 or 94 includes top and bottom edges 96, 97 and a pair of
side edges 98. If used in association with pillow, the panels 93,
49 are attached via top and bottom seams 99 and side seams 100. The
resulting puffs 70 of the cover 92 run generally parallel to the
top and bottom edges 96, 97 so as to be pleasing to the eye of the
on-looker.
[0050] While preferred embodiments have been shown and described in
the foregoing, it will be understood that the invention is capable
of numerous modifications, rearrangements and substitutions without
departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the
appended claims. For example, the invention is capable of being
carried out using a quilting machine manufactured by Edgewater
Machine Company, 13-20 131st St., College Park, N.Y. wherein such
machine is modified to provide correct braking of the layers of
material prior to sewing and to provide correct movement of the
sewing head relative to such layers as sewing occurs.
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