U.S. patent application number 09/287176 was filed with the patent office on 2003-01-30 for dye composition for keratin fibres, with a cationic direct dye and a substantive polymer.
Invention is credited to RONDEAU, CHRISTINE.
Application Number | 20030019053 09/287176 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 9524889 |
Filed Date | 2003-01-30 |
United States Patent
Application |
20030019053 |
Kind Code |
A9 |
RONDEAU, CHRISTINE |
January 30, 2003 |
DYE COMPOSITION FOR KERATIN FIBRES, WITH A CATIONIC DIRECT DYE AND
A SUBSTANTIVE POLYMER
Abstract
The invention relates to a dye composition for keratin fibers,
in particular for human keratin fibers such as the hair, this
composition having, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least one
cationic direct dye of given formula, and containing at least one
specific cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer. The invention
also relates to the dyeing processes and devices using it.
Inventors: |
RONDEAU, CHRISTINE;
(SARTROUVILLE, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
FINNEGAN HENDERSON FARABOW
GARRETT & DUNNER
1300 I STREET N W
WASHINGTON
DC
200053315
|
Prior
Publication: |
|
Document Identifier |
Publication Date |
|
US 0046432 A1 |
April 25, 2002 |
|
|
Family ID: |
9524889 |
Appl. No.: |
09/287176 |
Filed: |
April 6, 1999 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
8/407; 8/409;
8/423; 8/431; 8/553; 8/554; 8/555; 8/561; 8/562; 8/654; 8/655;
8/657; 8/659 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q 5/02 20130101; A61K
2800/4322 20130101; A61Q 5/10 20130101; A61K 8/49 20130101; A61K
8/4946 20130101; A61Q 5/065 20130101; A61K 8/494 20130101; A61K
8/496 20130101; A61K 8/4966 20130101; A61K 8/4926 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
8/407; 8/409;
8/423; 8/431; 8/553; 8/554; 8/555; 8/561; 8/562; 8/654; 8/655;
8/657; 8/659 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/13; C09B
067/00; C09B 044/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Apr 6, 1998 |
FR |
98 04234 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A composition for dyeing keratin fibers, said composition
comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, (i) at least one
cationic direct dye of formula (I), (II), (III) or (III') below:
19wherein, in said formula (I): D represents a nitrogen atom or a
--CH group, R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are identical or different and
represent a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical which is
unsubstituted or substituted with a --CN, --OH or --NH.sub.2
radical, or R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 form, with a carbon atom of the
benzene ring, an optionally oxygenated or nitrogenous heterocycle
which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more
C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radicals, or a 4'-aminophenyl radical;
R.sub.3 and R'.sub.3 are identical or different and represent a
hydrogen atom, a halogen atom selected from chlorine, bromine,
iodine and fluorine, a cyano group, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl ,
radical, or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkoxy or acetyloxy radical; X.sup.-
represents an anion; A represents a group selected from structures
A1 to A19 below: 20wherein R.sub.4 represents a C.sub.1-C.sub.4
alkyl radical which is unsubstituted or substituted with a hydroxyl
radical; and R.sub.5 represents a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkoxy radical;
with the proviso that when D represents --CH, A represents A.sub.4
or A.sub.13, and R.sub.3 is other than an alkoxy radical, then
R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen
atom; 21wherein, in said formula (II): R.sub.6 represents a
hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical; R.sub.7
represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical which is unsubstituted
or substituted with a --CN radical or with an amino group, a
4'-aminophenyl radical, or R.sub.7 forms, with R.sub.6, an
optionally oxygenated and/or nitrogenous heterocycle which is
unsubstituted or substituted with a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical;
R.sub.8 and R.sub.9 are identical or different and represent a
hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl or
C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkoxy radical, or a --CN radical; X.sup.-
represents an anion; B represents a group selected from structures
B1 to B6 below: 22wherein R.sub.10 represents a C.sub.1-C.sub.4
alkyl radical; R.sub.11 and R.sub.12, which are identical or
different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl
radical; 23wherein, in said formulae (III) and (III'): R.sub.13
represents a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkoxy radical, a
halogen atom, or an amino radical; R.sub.14 represents a hydrogen
atom, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical, or R.sub.14 forms, with a
carbon atom of the benzene ring, a heterocycle which is optionally
oxygenated and/or substituted with one or more C.sub.1-C.sub.4
alkyl groups; R.sub.15 represents a hydrogen atom or a halogen
atom; R.sub.16 and R.sub.17, which are identical or different,
represent a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical;
D.sub.1 and D.sub.2, which are identical or different, represent a
nitrogen atom or a --CH group; m 0 or 1; with the proviso that when
R.sub.13 represents an unsubstituted amino group, then D.sub.1 and
D.sub.2 simultaneously represent a --CH group and m=0; X.sup.-
represents an anion; and E represents a group selected from
structures E1 to E8 below: 24wherein R' represents a
C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical; with the proviso that when m=0 and
D.sub.1 represents a nitrogen atom, then E can also represent a
group of structure E9 below: 25wherein R' represents a
C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical; and (ii) at least one cationic or
amphoteric substantive polymer selected from the group formed by:
(a) cellulosic cationic derivatives with the exception of
Polyquaternium 10; (b) copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium halide
and of (meth)acrylic acid; (c)
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium halide homopolymersancooyes
(d) polyquaternary ammonium polymers selected from: polymers of
repeating units having formula (IV) below: 26polymers of repeating
units having formula (V) below: 27and polymers of repeating units
having formula (VI) below: 28wherein p represents an integer
ranging from 1 to 6 approximately, D is zero or represents a group
--(CH.sub.2).sub.r--CO-- wherein r represents a number equal to 4
or 7; and (e) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers containing cationic
units.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein in said formula (I),
(II), (III), or (III'), X.sup.- represents an anion of chloride,
methyl sulfate, or acetate.
3. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said keratin fibers
are human keratin fibers.
4. A composition according to claim 3, wherein said human keratin
fibers are human hair.
5. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
cationic direct dye of formula (I) is selected from the compounds
having structures (I1) to (I51) and (I53) to (I55) below: 29
6. A composition according to claim 5, wherein said at least one
cationic direct dye has structure (I1), (I2), (I14) or (I31).
7. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
cationic direct dye of formula (II) is selected from the compounds
having structures (II1) to (II3), (II5), (II6), (II8), and (II10)
to (II12) below: 30
8. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
cationic direct dye of formula (III) is selected from the compounds
having structures (III1) to (III18) below: 31
9. A composition according to claim 8, wherein said at least one
cationic direct dye of formula (III) has structure (III4), (III5)
or (III13).
10. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
cationic direct dye of formula (III') is selected from the
compounds having structures (III'1) to (III'3) below: 32
11. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
cationic direct dye of formulae (I), (II), (III) or (III') is
present in an amount ranging from about 0.001 to about 10% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. A composition according to claim 11, wherein said at least one
cationic direct dye of formulae (I), (II), (III) or (III') is
present in amount ranging from about 0.005 to about 5% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer is Polyquaternium
24.
14. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer is a copolymer of
dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylic acid (80/20 by
weight).
15. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer is a crosslinked
poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) homopolymer,
as a 50% dispersion in mineral oil; the crosslinked copolymer of
acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride
(20/80 by weight), as a 50% dispersion in mineral oil; or the
methosulphate of the copolymer of
methacryloyloxyethyl-trimethylammonium and of
methacryloyloxyethyldime- thylacetylammonium.
16. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer is: a) a
vinylpyrrolidone polymer containing dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
units; b) a vinylpyrrolidone polymer containing
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium units; or c) a
vinylpyrrolidone polymer containing methylvinylimidazolium
units.
17. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer is present in an amount
ranging from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition.
18. A composition according to claim 17, wherein said at least one
cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer is present in an amount
ranging from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
19. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said medium
suitable for dyeing comprises water or a mixture of water and at
least one organic solvent.
20. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said composition
has a pH ranging from about 2 to about 11.
21. A composition according to claim 20, wherein said composition
has a pH ranging from about 5 to about 10.
22. A composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least
one additional direct dye.
23. A composition according to claim 22, wherein said at least one
additional direct dye is a nitrobenzene dye, anthraquinone dye,
naphthoquinone dye, triarylmethane dye, xanthine dye, or an azo dye
that is non-cationic.
24. A composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least
one oxidation base selected from para-phenylenediamines,
bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols
and heterocyclic bases.
25. A composition according to claim 24, wherein said at least one
oxidation base is present in an amount ranging from about 0.0005 to
about 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye
composition.
26. A composition according to claim 25, wherein said at least one
oxidation base is present in an amount ranging from about 0.005 to
about 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye
composition.
27. A composition according to claim 24, further comprising at
least one coupler selected from meta-phenylenediamines,
meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and heterocyclic couplers.
28. A composition according to claim 27, wherein said at least one
coupler is present in an amount ranging from about 0.0001 to about
10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye
composition.
29. A composition according to claim 28, wherein said at least one
coupler is present in an amount ranging from about 0.005 to about
5% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye
composition.
30. A composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least
one oxidizing agent.
31. A composition according to claim 30, wherein said at least one
oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal
bromate, a persalt, or an enzyme.
32. A method for dyeing keratin fibers, said method comprising
applying at least one dyeing composition according to claim 1 to
said keratin fibers, and allowing said at least one dyeing
composition to remain on said keratin fibers for a period of time
sufficient to develop the desired coloration.
33. A method for dyeing keratin fibers according to claim 32,
further comprising rinsing said keratin fibers after said period of
time sufficient to develop the desired coloration.
34. A method for dyeing keratin fibers according to claim 33,
further comprising, after said rinsing, washing said keratin fibers
with shampoo, rinsing said keratin fibers again, and drying said
keratin fibers.
35. The method according to claim 33, wherein said period of time
ranges from 3 to 60 minutes.
36. The method according to claim 35, wherein said period of time
ranges from 5 to 40 minutes.
37. A method for dyeing keratin fibers, said method comprising (1)
mixing a composition (A1), said composition (A1) comprising at
least one cationic direct dye of formula (I), (II), (III) or (III')
as defined in claim 1, and at least one oxidation base with a
composition (B1), said composition (B1) comprising, in a medium
suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidizing agent, wherein said
composition (A1) or said composition (B1) contains at least one
cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer as defined in claim 1,
and (2) applying said mixture of said composition (A1) and said
composition (B1) to said keratin fibers for a period of time
sufficient to dye said keratin fibers, wherein said mixing occurs
before the time of application to said keratin fibers.
38. A method for dyeing keratin fibers, said method comprising (1)
mixing a composition (A2), said composition (A2) comprising at
least one cationic direct dye of formula (I), (II), (III) or (III')
as defined in claim 1, with a composition (B2), said composition
(B2) comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least one
oxidizing agent, wherein said composition (A2) or said composition
(B2) contains at least one cationic or amphoteric substantive
polymer as defined in claim 1, and (2) applying said mixture of
said composition (A2) and said composition (B2) to said keratin
fibers for a period of time sufficient to dye said keratin fibers,
wherein said mixing occurs before the time of application to said
keratin fibers.
39. A multi-compartment dyeing device or multi-compartment dyeing
kit for dyeing keratin fibers comprising at least two compartments,
wherein a first compartment comprises a composition (A1) as defined
in claim 37, and a second compartment comprises a composition (B1)
as defined in claim 37.
40. A multi-compartment dyeing device or multi-compartment dyeing
kit for dyeing keratin fibers comprising at least two compartments,
wherein a first compartment comprises a composition (A2) as defined
in claim 38, and a second compartment comprises a composition (B2)
as defined in claim 38.
41. A composition according to claim 1 in the form of a liquid, a
shampoo, a cream, or a gel.
42. A composition according to claim 41 in the form of a shampoo.
Description
[0001] The invention relates to a dye composition for keratin
fibers, especially human keratin fibers, such as the hair, this
composition comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least
one cationic direct dye of the below given formulae and at least
one specific cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer.
[0002] The invention also relates to the dyeing processes and
devices using this composition.
[0003] Two types of dyeing can be distinguished in the hair sector.
The first type of dyeing is semi-permanent or temporary dyeing,
also known as direct dyeing, which uses dyes capable of giving the
hair's natural coloration a more or less pronounced color change
that may be resistant to several shampoo-washes. These dyes are
known as direct dyes; they can be used with or without an oxidizing
agent. In the presence of an oxidizing agent, the aim is to effect
a lightening dyeing. The lightening dyeing is carried out by
applying the mixture, prepared at the time of use, of a direct dye
and of an oxidizing agent to the hair, and obtains, by lightening
the melanin in the hair, an advantageous effect, such as unifying
the color in the case of grey hair, or bringing out the color in
the case of naturally pigmented hair.
[0004] The second type of dyeing is permanent dyeing or oxidation
dyeing. This type of dyeing is carried out with so-called
"oxidation" dyes comprising oxidation dye precursors and couplers.
Oxidation dye precursors, commonly referred to as "oxidation
bases," are compounds that are initially colorless or only weakly
colored, and that develop their dyeing power on the hair in the
presence of oxidizing agents added at the time of use, leading to
the formation of colored compounds and dyes. The formation of these
colored compounds and dyes results either from an oxidative
condensation of the "oxidation bases" with themselves, or from an
oxidative condensation of the "oxidation bases" with coloration
modifier compounds, commonly known as "couplers," which are
generally present in the dye compositions used in oxidation
dyeing.
[0005] To vary the shades obtained with oxidation dyes, or to
enrich them with glints, it is known practice to add direct dyes
thereto.
[0006] Among the cationic direct dyes available in the field of
dyeing keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers, the
compounds whose structure is developed in the following text are
already known; however, these dyes lead to insufficient
colorations, both regarding the homogeneity of the color
distributed along the fiber ("unison"), where the coloration is
said to be too selective, and regarding the staying power, where
the hair resists various attacking factors, including light, bad
weather, and shampooing.
[0007] Now, after considerable research conducted in this area, the
Inventor has discovered that it is possible to obtain novel
compositions for dyeing keratin fibers capable of giving
colorations that are less selective and that show good resistance
to the various attacking factors to the hair, by combining at least
one specific cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer with at
least one cationic direct dye known in the art and of formulae
respectively defined below.
[0008] This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.
[0009] Additional features and advantages of the invention are set
forth in the description that follows, and, in part, will be
apparent from the description or may be learned from practice of
the invention. The advantages of the invention will be realized and
attained by the dyeing compositions, processes, and kits
particularly pointed out in the written description and claims.
[0010] Both the foregoing general description and the following
detailed description of the invention are exemplary and explanatory
only and are not restrictive of the claimed invention.
[0011] A first subject of the present invention is thus a
composition for dyeing keratin fibers, and especially human keratin
fibers, such as the hair, which composition comprises, in a medium
suitable for dyeing, (i) at least one cationic direct dye whose
structure corresponds to the following formulae, and (ii) at least
one specific cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer.
[0012] (i) The cationic direct dye which can be used according to
the present invention is a compound selected from those of formulae
(I), (II), (III) and (III') below:
[0013] a) the compounds of formula (I) below: 1
[0014] wherein:
[0015] D represents a nitrogen atom or a --CH group;
[0016] R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are identical or different and represent
a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical which is
unsubstituted or substituted with a --CN, --OH or --NH.sub.2
radical, or R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 form, with a carbon atom of the
benzene ring, an optionally oxygenated or nitrogenous heterocycle
which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more
C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radicals, or R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 may each be
a 4'-aminophenyl radical;
[0017] R.sub.3 and R'.sub.3 are identical or different and
represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom selected from chlorine,
bromine, iodine and fluorine, a cyano group, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4
alkyl radical, or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkoxy or acetyloxy
radical;
[0018] X.sup.- represents an anion preferably selected from
chloride, methyl sulphate and acetate;
[0019] A represents a group selected from structures A1 to A19
below: 2
[0020] wherein R.sub.4 represents a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical
which is unsubstituted or substituted with a hydroxyl radical and
R.sub.5 represents a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkoxy radical, with the
proviso that when D represents --CH, and A represents A.sub.4 or
A.sub.13 and R.sub.3 is other than an alkoxy radical, then R.sub.1
and R.sub.2 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom;
[0021] b) the compounds of formula (II) below: 3
[0022] wherein:
[0023] R.sub.6 represents a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4
alkyl radical;
[0024] R.sub.7 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical which
is unsubstituted or substituted with a --CN radical or with an
amino group, a 4'-aminophenyl radical, or forms, with R.sub.6, an
optionally oxygenated and/or nitrogenous heterocycle which is
unsubstituted or substituted with a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl
radical;
[0025] R.sub.8 and R.sub.9 are identical or different and represent
a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine
or fluorine, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl or C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkoxy
radical or a --CN radical;
[0026] X.sup.- represents an anion, preferably selected from
chloride, methyl sulphate and acetate;
[0027] B represents a group selected from structures B1 to B6
below: 4
[0028] wherein R.sub.10 represents a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical;
R.sub.11 and R.sub.12 are identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical;
[0029] c) the compounds of formulae (III) and (III') below: 5
[0030] wherein:
[0031] R.sub.13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4
alkoxy radical, a halogen atom, such as bromine, chlorine, iodine
or fluorine, or an amino radical;
[0032] R.sub.14 represents a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl
radical, or forms, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, a
heterocycle which is optionally oxygenated and/or substituted with
one or more C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl groups;
[0033] R.sub.15 represents a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom such
as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine;
[0034] R.sub.16 and R.sub.17 are identical or different and
represent a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical;
[0035] D.sub.1 and D.sub.2 are identical or different and represent
a nitrogen atom or a --CH group;
[0036] m=0 or 1;
[0037] with the proviso that when R.sub.13 represents an
unsubstituted amino group, then D, and D.sub.2 simultaneously
represent a --CH group and m=0;
[0038] X.sup.- represents an anion, preferably selected from
chloride, methyl sulphate and acetate; and
[0039] E represents a group selected from structures E1 to E8
below: 6
[0040] wherein R' represents a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical;
[0041] with the proviso that when m=0 and D.sub.1 represents a
nitrogen atom, then E can also represent a group of structure E9
below: 7
[0042] wherein R' represents a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical.
[0043] The cationic direct dyes of formulae (I), (II), (III) and
(III') that can be used in the dye compositions in accordance with
the invention are known compounds and are described, for example,
in patent applications WO 95/01772, WO 95/15144 and
EP-A-0,714,954.
[0044] The preferred cationic direct dyes of formula (I) that can
be used in the dye compositions in accordance with the invention
include the compounds corresponding to structures (I1) to (I55)
below: 8
[0045] Among the compounds of structures (I1) to (I55) described
above, those most preferred compounds include those corresponding
to structures (I1), (I2), (I14) and (I31).
[0046] The preferred cationic direct dyes of formula (II) that can
be used in the dye compositions in accordance with the invention,
include the compounds corresponding to structures (II1) to (II12)
below: 9
[0047] The preferred cationic direct dyes of formula (III) that can
be used in the dye compositions in accordance with the invention,
include the compounds corresponding to structures (III1) to (III18)
below: 10
[0048] Among the preferred compounds of structures (III1) to
(III18) described above, those most preferred are the compounds
corresponding to structures (III4), (III5) and (III13).
[0049] The preferred cationic direct dyes of formula (III') that
can be used in the dye compositions in accordance with the
invention, include the compounds corresponding to structures (II'1)
to (III'3) below: 11
[0050] The at least one cationic direct dye used according to the
invention preferably is present in amount ranging from about 0.001
to about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye
composition, and even more preferably from about 0.005 to about 5%
by weight relative to this weight.
[0051] (ii) The cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer that can
be used according to the present invention is selected from:
[0052] (a) cellulosic cationic derivatives, with the exception of
Polyquaternium 10;
[0053] (b) copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium halide and of
(meth)acrylic acid;
[0054] (c) methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium halide
homopolymers and copolymers;
[0055] (d) polyquaternary ammonium polymers selected from:
[0056] polymers comprising repeating units corresponding to formula
(IV) below: 12
[0057] polymers comprising repeating units corresponding to formula
(V) below: 13
[0058] and polymers comprising repeating units corresponding to
formula (VI) below: 14
[0059] in which p represents an integer ranging from 1 to 6
approximately, D can be zero or can represent a group --(CH.sub.2),
--CO-- in which r represents a number equal to 4 or 7;
[0060] (e) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers containing cationic units;
and
[0061] (f) mixtures thereof.
[0062] The substantive nature, i.e., the ability to be deposited on
the hair, of the polymers used in the present invention is
conventionally determined using the test described by Richard J.
Crawford, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 1980,
31-(5)-pages 273 to 278 (development with Red 80 acidic dye).
[0063] These substantive polymers can be selected from those
previously described in the literature, especially in European
patent application EP-A-0,557,203, from page 4, line 19 to page 12,
line 14.
[0064] Preferred cationic cellulosic derivatives include
quaternized cellulose ether derivatives such as those described in
European patent application EP-A-0,189,935, and in particular the
polymer sold under the name "Quatrisoft LM 200" by the company
Union Carbide. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA
dictionary (5th edition, 1993) as quaternary ammoniums of
hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted
with a lauryldimethylammonium group, and are listed therein under
the name "Polyquaternium 24".
[0065] Preferred substantive polymers of the
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl- ammonium halide homopolymer and
copolymer type that can be used according to the invention, include
the products that are referred to in the CTFA dictionary (5th
Edition, 1993) as (1) "Polyquaternium 37", (2) "Polyquaternium 32"
and (3) "Polyquaternium 35", and which correspond (1) to
crosslinked poly(methacryloyloxyethyltri-methylammonium chloride)
homopolymer, as a 50% dispersion in mineral oil, sold under the
name Salcare SC95 by the company Allied Colloids, (2) to the
crosslinked copolymer of acrylamide and of
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80 by weight),
as a 50% dispersion in mineral oil, sold under the name Salcare
SC92 by the company Allied Colloids, and (3) to the methosulphate
of the copolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoni- um and of
methacryloyloxyethyldimethylacetylammonium, sold under the name
Plex 7525L by the company Rohm GmbH.
[0066] The preferred substantive polymers of the copolymer of
dimethyldiallylammonium halide and of (meth)acrylic acid type that
can be used according to the invention, include the copolymers of
diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylic acid, such as the
one in proportions (80/20 by weight) sold under the name Merquat
280 by the company Calgon.
[0067] The preferred substantive polymers of the polyquaternary
ammonium type which can be used according to the invention,
include:
[0068] the polymers prepared and described in French Patent No.
2,270,846, comprising repeating units corresponding to formula (IV)
below: 15
[0069] and especially those in which the molecular weight,
determined by gel permeation chromatography, ranges from 9500 to
9900;
[0070] the polymers prepared and described in French Patent No.
2,270,846, comprising repeating units corresponding to formula (V)
below: 16
[0071] and especially those in which the molecular weight,
determined by gel permeation chromatography, is about 1200;
[0072] the polymers described and prepared in U.S. Pat. Nos.
4,157,388, 4,390,689, 4,702,906 and 4,719,282, comprising repeating
units corresponding to formula (VI) below: 17
[0073] wherein p represents an integer ranging from 1 to 6
approximately, D can be zero or can represent a group
--(CH.sub.2).sub.r--CO--, further wherein r represents a number
equal to 4 or 7, and wherein the molecular mass of said polymers is
preferably less than 100,000, and even more preferably less than or
equal to 50,000. Such polymers are sold, for a example, by the
company Miranol under the names "Mirapol A15", "Mirapol AD1",
"Mirapol AZ1" and "Mirapol 175".
[0074] The preferred vinylpyrrolidone polymers (PVP) containing
cationic units that can be used in accordance with the invention,
include:
[0075] a) vinylpyrrolidone polymers containing dimethylaminoethyl
methacrylate units; for example:
[0076] the vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (20/80
by weight) copolymer sold under the trade name Copolymer 845 by the
company ISP,
[0077] the vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulphate, sold under the names
Gafquat 734, 755, 755 S and 755 L by the company ISP,
[0078] the PVP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/hydrophilic
polyurethane copolymers sold under the trade name Pecogel GC-310 by
the company UCIB or alternatively under the names Aquamere C 1031
and C 1511 by the company Blagden Chemicals,
[0079] the quaternized or non-quaternized PVP/dimethylaminoethyl
methacrylate/C8 to C16 olefin copolymers sold under the names Ganex
ACP 1050 to 1057, 1062 to 1069 and 1079 to 1086 by the company
ISP,
[0080] the PVP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam
copolymer sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP.
[0081] b) vinylpyrrolidone polymers containing
methacrylamidopropyltrimeth- ylammonium (MAPTAC) units, for
example:
[0082] the vinylpyrrolidone/MAPTAC copolymers sold under the trade
names Gafquat ACP 1011 and Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
[0083] c) vinylpyrrolidone polymers containing
methylvinylimidazolium units, for example:
[0084] the PVP/methylvinylimidazolium chloride copolymers sold
under the names Luviquat FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552 by the
company BASF,
[0085] the PVP/methylvinylimidazolium chloride/vinylimidazole
copolymer sold under the name Luviquat 8155 by the company
BASF,
[0086] the PVP/methylvinylimidazolium methosulphate copolymer sold
under the name Luviquat MS 370 by the company BASF.
[0087] The concentration of substantive polymer (ii) in the dye
composition according to the invention can range from about 0.01 to
about 10% relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and
preferably from 0.1 to 5%.
[0088] The medium suitable for dyeing (or support) generally
comprises water or a mixture of water and at least one organic
solvent, which can dissolve the compounds that would not be
sufficiently soluble in the water. Preferred organic solvents
include, for example, C.sub.1-C.sub.4 lower alkanols, such as
ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol
or phenoxyethanol, as well as similar products and mixtures
thereof.
[0089] The solvents can be present in preferred proportions ranging
from about 1 to about 40% by weight relative to the total weight of
the dye composition, and even more preferably from about 5 to about
30% by weight.
[0090] The pH of the dye composition in accordance with the
invention generally ranges from about 2 to about 11 and preferably
from about 5 to about 10. The pH can be adjusted to the desired
value using acidifying or basifying agents typically used in the
dyeing of keratin fibers.
[0091] Examples of acidifying agents include inorganic or organic
acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulphuric
acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric
acid or lactic acid, and sulphonic acids.
[0092] Examples of basifying agents include aqueous ammonia,
alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and
triethanolamine and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide,
potassium hydroxide and the compounds of formula (VII) below:
18
[0093] wherein W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with
a hydroxyl group or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical; R.sub.18
R.sub.19, R.sub.20 and R.sub.21 are identical or different and
represent a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl or
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl radical.
[0094] In addition to the at least one cationic direct dye (i)
defined above, the dye composition in accordance with the invention
can contain at least one additional direct dye that can be
selected, for example, from nitrobenzene dyes, anthraquinone dyes,
naphthoquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthine dyes and azo
dyes which are non-cationic.
[0095] When it is intended for oxidation dyeing, the dye
composition in accordance with the invention contains, in addition
to the at least one cationic direct dye (i), at least one oxidation
base selected from the oxidation bases conventionally used for
oxidation dyeing, for example, para-phenylenediamines,
bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols
and heterocyclic bases.
[0096] When they are used, the at least one oxidation base is
preferably present in an amount ranging from about 0.0005 to about
12% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition,
and even more preferably from about 0.005 to about 6% by weight
relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
[0097] When it is intended for oxidation dyeing, the dye
composition in accordance with the invention can also contain, in
addition to the at least one cationic direct dye (i), the at least
one substantive polymer (ii), and the at least one oxidation base,
at least one coupler so as to modify the shades obtained or to
enrich them with glints, by using the at least one cationic direct
dye (i) and the at least one oxidation base.
[0098] The at least one coupler that can be used in the dye
composition in accordance with the invention can be selected from
the couplers conventionally used in oxidation dyeing, for example,
meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and
heterocyclic couplers.
[0099] When they are present, the at least one coupler is
preferably present in an amount ranging from about 0.0001 to about
10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition,
and even more preferably from about 0.005 to about 5% by weight
relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
[0100] The dye composition in accordance with the invention can
also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions
for dyeing the hair, such as antioxidants, penetrating agents,
sequestering agents, fragrances, buffers, dispersing agents,
surfactants, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents,
screening agents and opacifiers.
[0101] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care
to select this or these optionally complementary compounds such
that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the
dye composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are
not substantially, adversely affected by the addition(s)
envisaged.
[0102] The dye composition according to the invention can be in
various forms, such as in the form of liquids, shampoos, creams or
gels or in any other form which is suitable for dyeing keratin
fibers, and, especially, human hair. The presentation in shampoo
form is particularly preferred.
[0103] When the combination of the at least one cationic direct dye
(i) and of the at least one substantive polymer (ii) according to
the invention is used in a composition intended for oxidation
dyeing (at least one oxidation base is then used, optionally in the
presence of at least one coupler), or when it is used in a
composition intended for lightening direct dyeing, then the dye
composition in accordance with the invention also contains at least
one oxidizing agent selected, for example, from hydrogen peroxide,
urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts, such as perborates
and persulphates, and enzymes, such as peroxidases, lactases and
two-electron oxidoreductases. The use of hydrogen peroxide or of
enzymes is particularly preferred.
[0104] Another subject of the invention is a method for dyeing
keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers, such as the hair,
using the dye composition as defined above.
[0105] According to a first variant of this dyeing process in
accordance with the invention, at least one dye composition as
defined above is applied to the keratin fibers, for a period of
time sufficient to develop the desired coloration, after which the
fibers are rinsed, optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again and
dried.
[0106] The time required to develop the coloration on the keratin
fibers generally ranges from 3 to 60 minutes, and more preferably
ranges from 5 to 40 minutes.
[0107] According to a second variant of this dyeing process in
accordance with the invention, at least one dye composition as
defined above is applied to the keratin fibers, for a period which
is sufficient to develop the desired coloration, without final
rinsing.
[0108] According to a specific embodiment of this dyeing process,
when the dye composition in accordance with the invention contains
at least one oxidation base and at least one oxidizing agent, the
dyeing process includes a first step which comprises separately
storing, on the one hand, a composition (A1) comprising, in a
medium suitable for dyeing, at least one cationic direct dye (i) as
defined above and at least one oxidation base, and, on the other
hand, a composition (B1) containing, in a medium suitable for
dyeing, at least one oxidizing agent, followed by mixing them
together at the time of use, before applying this mixture to the
keratin fibers, the composition (A1) or the composition (B1)
containing the cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer (ii) as
defined above.
[0109] According to another specific embodiment of this dyeing
process, and when the dye composition in accordance with the
invention contains at least one oxidizing agent, the dyeing process
includes a first step which comprises separately storing, on the
one hand, a composition (A2) comprising, in a medium suitable for
dyeing, at least one cationic direct dye (i) as defined above, and,
on the other hand, a composition (B2) containing, in a medium
suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidizing agent, followed by
mixing them together at the time of use, before applying this
mixture to the keratin fibers, the composition (A2) or the
composition (B2) containing the cationic or amphoteric substantive
polymer as defined above.
[0110] Another subject of the invention is a multi-compartment
dyeing device or "kit" or any other multi-compartment packaging
system, a first compartment of which contains composition (A1) or
(A2) as defined above and a second compartment of which contains
composition (B1) or (B2) as defined above. These devices can be
equipped with a means for applying the desired mixture to the hair,
such as the devices described in French Patent No. FR-2,586,913 in
the name of L'Oral.
[0111] The present invention is further illustrated by the
following examples which are designed to teach those of ordinary
skill in the art how to practice the invention. The following
examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting
its scope.
EXAMPLES
Example 1
[0112]
1 The dye composition below was prepared: Cationic direct dye of
formula I(2) 0.125 g para-Aminophenol 0.120 g
5-N-.beta.-Hydroxyethylamino-2-methylPhenol 0.125 g Substantive
polymer: copolymer of 1.0 g A.M.* diallyldimethylammonium chloride
and of acrylic acid (80/20 by weight), sold under the name Merquat
280 by the company Calgon Oleyl alcohol polyglycerolated with 2 mol
of glycerol 4.0 g Oleyl alcohol polyglycerolated with 4 mol of
glycerol, 5.69 g A.M.* containing 78% active material (A.M.) Oleic
acid 3.0 g Oleylamine containing 2 mol of ethylene oxide, sold 7.0
g under the trade name Ethomeen O12 by the company Akzo
Diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate, sodium 3.0 g A.M.* salt,
containing 55% A.M. Oleyl alcohol 5.0 g Oleic acid diethanolamide
12.0 g Propylene glycol 3.5 g Dipropylene glycol 0.5 g Propylene
glycol monomethyl ether 9.0 g Ethanol 7.0 g Sodium metabisulphite
as an aqueous solution 0.455 g A.M.* containing 35% A.M. Ammonium
acetate 0.8 g Antioxidant, sequestering agent qs Fragrance,
preserving agent qs Aqueous ammonia containing 20% NH.sub.3 10.0 g
A.M.*: Active material
[0113] At the time of use, this composition was mixed with an equal
amount of an aqueous 20-volume hydrogen peroxide solution (6% by
weight).
[0114] The resulting mixture was applied for 30 minutes to locks of
natural grey hair containing 90% white hairs. The locks of hair
were then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo, and then dried.
[0115] The locks of hair were dyed a light blonde shade with an
intense red glint.
Example 2
[0116]
2 The dye composition below was prepared: Cationic direct dye of
formula I(14) 0.09 g Substantive polymer of polyquaternary ammonium
1.0 g A.M.* type of formula (IV) Nonylphenol containing 9 mol of
ethylene oxide 8.0 g 2-Amino-2-methylpropanol qs pH 9 Demineralized
water qsp 100 g A.M.*: Active material
[0117] The above composition was applied for 30 minutes to locks of
natural grey hair containing 90% white hairs. The locks of hair
were then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and then
dried.
[0118] The locks of hair were dyed an intense coppery shade.
[0119] The foregoing written description relates to various
embodiments of the present invention. Numerous changes and
modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit
and scope of the invention as defined in the following claims.
* * * * *