U.S. patent application number 10/025062 was filed with the patent office on 2002-10-24 for gel creams in the form of o/w emulsions containing one or more ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.
Invention is credited to Hargens, Birgit, Kropke, Rainer, Lanzendorfer, Ghita, Nielsen, Jens, Riedel, Heidi, von Thaden, Stephanie.
Application Number | 20020155076 10/025062 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 7669007 |
Filed Date | 2002-10-24 |
United States Patent
Application |
20020155076 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Lanzendorfer, Ghita ; et
al. |
October 24, 2002 |
Gel creams in the form of O/W emulsions containing one or more
ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers
Abstract
Cosmetic or dermatological gel creams of the oil-in-water type,
comprising (i) up to 90% by weight of a water phase, (ii) up to 20%
by weight of a lipid phase, based on the total weight of the
preparations, (iii) up to 5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers,
(iv) also comprising up to 5% by weight of one or more ammonium
acryloyldimethyl-taurates/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.
Inventors: |
Lanzendorfer, Ghita;
(Hamburg, DE) ; Nielsen, Jens; (Henstedt-Ulzburg,
DE) ; Hargens, Birgit; (Hamburg, DE) ; Kropke,
Rainer; (Schenefeld, DE) ; Riedel, Heidi;
(Hamburg, DE) ; von Thaden, Stephanie; (Hamburg,
DE) |
Correspondence
Address: |
WILLIAM GERSTENZANG
NORRIS, MCLAUGHLIN & MARCUS, P.A.
220 EAST 42ND STREET, 30TH FLOOR
NEW YORK
NY
10017
US
|
Family ID: |
7669007 |
Appl. No.: |
10/025062 |
Filed: |
December 19, 2001 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/63 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 9/06 20130101; A61Q
17/04 20130101; A61Q 1/02 20130101; A61K 9/107 20130101; A61P 17/16
20180101; A61K 8/062 20130101; A61Q 1/04 20130101; A61Q 1/14
20130101; A61Q 1/10 20130101; A61K 9/0014 20130101; A61Q 19/00
20130101; A61K 8/06 20130101; A61P 17/00 20180101; A61K 8/8182
20130101; A61K 47/32 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/63 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/021 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Dec 23, 2000 |
DE |
100 65 047.3 |
Claims
1. A cosmetic or dermatological gel cream of the oil-in-water type,
comprising (i) up to 90% by weight of a water phase, (ii) up to 20%
by weight of a lipid phase, based on the total weight of the
preparation, (iii) up to 5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers,
(iv) also comprising up to 5% by weight of one or more ammonium
acryloyldimethyl-taurates/viny- lpyrrolidone copolymers.
2. The gel cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein its lipid content
is chosen from the range from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight,
preferably from 5 to 10% by weight.
3. The gel cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein its lipid content
is up to 7.5% by weight.
4. The gel cream as claimed in claim 1, which comprises one or more
dyes and/or coloring pigments.
5. The gel cream as claimed in claim 4, wherein the total amount of
the dyes and coloring pigments is chosen from the range from, for
example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to
15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each
case based on the total weight of the preparations.
6. The use of gel creams as claimed in claim 4 as eyeshadow.
Description
DESCRIPTION
Gel creams in the form of O/W emulsions containing one or more
ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers
[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological
preparations, in particular those of the oil-in-water type, to
processes for their preparation, and to their use for cosmetic and
medicinal purposes.
[0002] The human skin is man's largest organ and performs a number
of vital functions. Having an average area of about 2 m.sup.2 in
adults, it has a prominent role as a protective and sensory organ.
The purpose of this organ is to transmit and avert mechanical,
thermal, actinic, chemical and biological stimuli. In addition, it
has an important role as a regulatory and target organ in human
metabolism.
[0003] The main aim of skin care in the cosmetics sense is to
strengthen or restore the skin's natural function as a barrier
against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals,
microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (e.g.
water, natural fats, electrolytes), and also to assist its horny
layer in its natural regeneration ability in cases of existing
damage.
[0004] If the barrier properties of the skin are impaired,
increased resorption of toxic or allergenic substances or attack by
microorganisms may result, leading to toxic or allergic skin
reactions.
[0005] Another aim of skin care is to compensate for the loss by
the skin of sebum and water caused by daily washing. This is
particularly important if the natural regeneration ability is
inadequate. Furthermore, skin care products should protect against
environmental influences, in particular against sun and wind, and
delay skin aging.
[0006] Medicinal topical compositions usually comprise one or more
medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of
simplicity, in order to clearly distinguish between cosmetic and
medicinal use and corresponding products, reference is made to the
legal provisions in the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. Cosmetics
Directive, Foods and Drugs Act).
[0007] Emulsions are generally understood as meaning heterogeneous
systems which consist of two liquids, which are usually referred to
as phases, which are immiscible or miscible with one another only
to a limited extent. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids is
dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other
liquid.
[0008] If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are
very finely dispersed in water, this is an oil-in-water emulsion
(O/W emulsion, e.g. milk). The basic character of an O/W emulsion
is determined by the water. In the case of a water-in-oil emulsion
(W/O emulsion, e.g. butter), the principle is reversed, the basic
character being determined here by the oil.
[0009] Gel creams are particularly light-weight products with a low
emulsifier and lipid content. They are characterized by the fact
that they can be distributed readily on the skin and impart a
feeling of freshness. Following product application, no or only
very little residue should remain on the skin. Gel creams generally
comprise a relatively high proportion of hydrophilic thickeners
(e.g. carbopols, xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose. Since the
thickener or the thickener system is in the external phase, it has
a significant influence on the sensory properties of the product.
Common thickener systems either cannot be readily distributed, do
not give a feeling of freshness or leave behind too sticky a
residue on the skin.
[0010] The aim was to remedy these shortcomings.
[0011] Surprisingly, these objects are achieved by cosmetic or
dermatological gel creams of the oil-in-water type, comprising
[0012] (i) up to 90% by weight of a water phase,
[0013] (ii) up to 20% by weight of a lipid phase, based on the
total weight of the preparations,
[0014] (iii) up to 5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers,
[0015] (iv) also comprising up to 5% by weight of one or more
ammonium acryloyldimethyl-taurates/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.
[0016] According to the invention, the ammonium
acryloyldimethyltaurates/v- inylpyrrolidone copolymer(s) have the
empirical formula
[C.sub.7H.sub.16N.sub.2SO.sub.4].sub.n[C.sub.6H.sub.9NO].sub.m,
corresponding to a statistical structure as follows 1
[0017] Preferred species for the purposes of the present invention
are filed in Chemical Abstracts under the registry numbers
58374-69-9, 13162-05-5 and 88-12-0 and are obtainable under the
trade name Aristoflex.RTM. AVC from Clariant GmbH.
[0018] It had therefore not been foreseen by the person skilled in
the art that the preparations according to the invention
[0019] would have better effectiveness as moisture-donating
preparations,
[0020] would be easier to formulate,
[0021] would better promote skin smoothing,
[0022] would be characterized by better care action,
[0023] would better serve as vehicles for cosmetic and
medicinal-dermatological active ingredients
[0024] would have better sensory properties, such as, for example,
the ability to be distributed on the skin or the ability to be
absorbed into the skin,
[0025] would have higher stability against decomposition in oil and
water phases and
[0026] would be characterized by better biocompatibility
[0027] than the preparations of the prior art.
[0028] The preparations according to the invention thus represent
an enrichment of the prior art.
[0029] The lipid content of the preparations obtainable according
to the invention can advantageously be varied from 0.5% by weight
to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight, where the
results achieved are equally favorable. In the case of freedom from
lipid, no emulsion is present, but rather a system which should
most appropriately be referred to as an emulsifier gel.
[0030] Preparations according to the invention preferably comprise
up to 7.5% by weight of a lipid phase, in which case they are O/W
emulsions. Preparations according to the invention particularly
advantageously comprise up to 6% by weight of a lipid phase.
Preparations according to the invention particularly preferably
comprise 2 to 4% by weight of a lipid phase, in particular
approximately 3% by weight, in each case based on the total weight
of the preparations.
[0031] The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions
according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from the
following group of substances:
[0032] mineral oils, mineral waxes
[0033] oils, such as triglycerides of capric or of caprylic acid,
and also natural oils such as, for example, castor oil;
[0034] fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty
substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low
carbon number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol,
or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low carbon
number or with fatty acids;
[0035] alkyl benzoates;
[0036] silicone oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxanes,
diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms
thereof.
[0037] The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is
advantageously chosen from the group of esters of saturated and/or
unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids
having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated
and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a
chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters
of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated,
branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3
to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be
chosen from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl
palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate,
n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl
stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,
2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl
paimitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl
erucate, and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such
esters, e.g. jojoba oil.
[0038] In addition, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from
the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon
waxes, of silicone oils, of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated
or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid
triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and/or
unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids
having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon
atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example,
advantageously be chosen from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic
and natural oils, e.g. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil,
groundnut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil,
palm kernel oil and the like.
[0039] Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used
advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may
also in some instances be advantageous to use waxes, for example
cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
[0040] The oil phase is advantageously chosen from the group
consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl
isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C.sub.12-15-alkyl
benzoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
[0041] Particularly advantageous mixtures are those of
C.sub.12-15-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures
of C.sub.12-15-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate, and
mixtures of C.sub.12-15-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate
and isotridecyl isononanoate.
[0042] Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are
to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present
invention.
[0043] The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of
cyclic or linear silicone oils, or consist entirely of such oils,
although it is preferable to use an additional content of other oil
phase components apart from the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
Such silicones or silicone oils may be in the form of monomers,
which are generally characterized by structural elements, as
follows: 2
[0044] Linear silicones having two or more siloxyl units which are
to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally
characterized by structural elements, as follows: 3
[0045] where the silicon atoms can be substituted by identical or
different alkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are shown here
in general terms by the radicals R.sub.1-R.sub.4 (that is to say
the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4).
m can assume values from 2-200 000.
[0046] Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the
invention are generally characterized by structural elements, as
follows 4
[0047] where the silicon atoms can be substituted by identical or
different alkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are shown here
in general terms by the radicals R.sub.1-R.sub.4 (that is to say
the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4).
n can assume values from {fraction (3/2)} to 20. Fractions for n
take into consideration that uneven numbers of siloxyl groups may
be present in the cycle.
[0048] Advantageously, cyclomethicone (e.g.
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is used as the silicone oil to be
used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils are
also to be used advantageously for the purpose of the present
invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxan- e,
polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane),
cetyl-dimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.
[0049] Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and
isotridecyl isononanoate, and those of cyclomethicone and
2-ethylhexyl isostearate.
[0050] It is, however, also advantageous to choose silicone oils of
similar constitution to the above-described compounds whose organic
side chains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and/or
polypropoxylated. These include, for example,
polysiloxane-polyalkyl-poly- ether copolymers, such as
cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and)
polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).
[0051] Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of
cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, and of cyclomethicone
and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.
[0052] The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the
invention optionally advantageously comprises alcohols, diols or
polyols of low carbon number, and ethers thereof, preferably
ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol,
ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol
monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol
monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, and also
alcohols of low carbon number, e.g. ethanol, isopropanol,
1,2-propanediol, glycerol, and, in particular, one or more
thickeners which can advantageously be chosen from the group
consisting of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates.
[0053] Preparations according to the invention in the form of
emulsions advantageously comprise, in particular, one or more
hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be chosen
from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives,
phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and/or other polymers.
[0054] The gums include saps from plants or trees which harden in
the air and form resins, or extracts from aquatic plants. From this
group, for the purposes of the present invention, gum arabic, carob
flour, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageen,
agar, algins, chondrus, xanthan gum, for example, can be chosen
advantageously.
[0055] Also advantageous is the use of derivatized gums, such as,
for example, hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar.RTM. HP 8).
[0056] The polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives include,
for example, hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin
sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.
[0057] The cellulose derivatives include, for example,
methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose,
hydroxypropylmethylcellulo- se.
[0058] The phyllosilicates include naturally occurring and
synthetic clay earths, such as, for example, montmorillonite,
bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such
as Veegum.RTM.. These can be used as such or in modified form, such
as, for example, stearylalkonium hectorite.
[0059] In addition, silica gels can also be used
advantageously.
[0060] The polyacrylates include, for example, Carbopol grades from
Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen
TR2).
[0061] The polymers include, for example, polyacrylamides (Seppigel
305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVPNA copolymers, polyglycols.
[0062] Preparation according to the invention in the form of
emulsions comprise one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can
advantageously be chosen from the group of nonionic, anionic,
cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.
[0063] The nonionic emulsifiers include
[0064] a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of
polyhydric alcohols and ethoxylated derivatives thereof (e.g.
glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl
citrates, sucrose stearates)
[0065] b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids
[0066] c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid
alkanolamides
[0067] d) alkylphenol polyglycol ethers (e.g. Triton X).
[0068] The anionic emulsifiers include
[0069] a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate)
[0070] b) fatty alcohol sulfates
[0071] c) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphoric esters and ethoxylates
thereof.
[0072] The cationic emulsifiers include
[0073] a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic
radical, e.g. distearyidimonium chloride.
[0074] The amphoteric emulsifiers include
[0075] a) alkylaminoalkanecarboxylic acids
[0076] b) betaines, sulfobetaines
[0077] c) imidazoline derivatives.
[0078] In addition, there are naturally occurring emulsifiers,
which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.
[0079] O/W emulsifiers can be advantageously chosen, for example,
from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or
polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, e.g.:
[0080] fatty alcohol ethoxylates,
[0081] ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
[0082] polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula
R--O--(--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--O--).sub.n--R',
[0083] fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula
R--COO--(--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--O--).sub.n--H,
[0084] etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula
R--COO--(--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--O--).sub.n--R',
[0085] esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula
R--COO--(--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--O--).sub.n--C(O)--R',
[0086] polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters,
[0087] ethoxylated sorbitan esters,
[0088] cholesterol ethoxylates,
[0089] ethoxylated triglycerides,
[0090] alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula
[0091] R--O--(--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--O--).sub.n13 CH.sub.2--COOH
[0092] and n is a number from 5 to 30,
[0093] polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters,
[0094] alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula
R--O--(--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--O--).sub.n--SO.sub.3--H,
[0095] fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula
R--O--(--CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)--O--).sub.n--H,
[0096] polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula
R--O--(--CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)--O--).sub.n--R',
[0097] propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
[0098] etherified fatty acid propoxylates
R--COO--(--CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)--O--).sub.n--R',
[0099] esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general
formula
R--COO--(--CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)--O--).sub.n--C(O)--R',
[0100] fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula
R--COO--(--CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)--O--).sub.n13 H,
[0101] polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters,
[0102] propoxylated sorbitan esters,
[0103] cholesterol propoxylates,
[0104] propoxylated triglycerides,
[0105] alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula
R--O--(--CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)O--).sub.n--CH.sub.2--COOH,
[0106] alkyl ether sulfates or the parent acids of these sulfates
of the general formula
R--O--(--CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)--O--).sub.n --SO.sub.3--H,
[0107] fatty alcohol ethoxylates/propoxylates of the general
formula
R--O--X.sub.n--Y.sub.m--H,
[0108] polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula
R--O--X.sub.n--Y.sub.m--R',
[0109] etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general
formula
R--COO--X.sub.n--Y.sub.m--R',
[0110] fatty acid ethoxylates/propoxylates of the general
formula
R--COO--X.sub.n--Y.sub.mH.
[0111] According to the invention, particularly advantageous
polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and
polypropoxylated O/W emulsifiers used are those chosen from the
group of substances having HLB values of 11-18, very particularly
preferably having HLB values of 14.5-15.5, provided the O/W,
emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R'. If the O/W
emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and/or R', or isoalkyl
derivatives are present, then the preferred HLB value of such
emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.
[0112] It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates
from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols,
cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particular preference is
given to:
[0113] polyethylene glycol(13) stearyl ether (steareth-13),
polyethylene glycol(14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene
glycol(15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol(16)
stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol(17) stearyl ether
(steareth-17), polyethylene glycol(18) stearyl ether (steareth-18),
polyethylene glycol(19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene
glycol(20) stearyl ether (steareth-20),
[0114] polyethylene glycol(12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12),
polyethylene glycol(13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13),
polyethylene glycol(14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14),
polyethylene glycol(15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15),
polyethylene glycol(16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16),
polyethylene glycol(17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17),
polyethylene glycol(18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18),
polyethylene glycol(19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19),
polyethylene glycol(20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
polyethylene glycol(13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene
glycol(14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol(15) cetyl
ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol(16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16),
polyethylene glycol(17) cetyl ether (ceteth-17), polyethylene
glycol(18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol(19) cetyl
ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol(20) cetyl ether
(ceteth-20),
[0115] polyethylene glycol(13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13),
polyethylene glycol(14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene
glycol(15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol(16)
isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol(17) isocetyl
ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol(18) isocetyl ether
(isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol(19) isocetyl ether
(isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol(20) isocetyi ether
(isoceteth-20),
[0116] polyethylene glycol(12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene
glycol(13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol(14) oleyl
ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol(15) oleyl ether (oleth-1
5),
[0117] polyethylene glycol(12) lauryl ether (laureth-12),
polyethylene glycol(12) isolauryl ether (isolaureth-12),
[0118] polyethylene glycol(13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13),
polyethylene glycol(14) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14),
polyethylene glycol(15) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15),
polyethylene glycol(16) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-16),
polyethylene glycoi(17) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-17),
polyethylene glycol(18) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-18),
polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-19),
polyethylene glycol(20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20).
[0119] It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates
from the following group:
[0120] polyethylene glycol(20) stearate, polyethylene glycol(21)
stearate, polyethylene glycol(22) stearate, polyethylene glycol(23)
stearate, polyethylene glycol(24) stearate, polyethylene glycol(25)
stearate, polyethylene glycol(12) isostearate, polyethylene
glycol(13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol(14) isostearate,
polyethylene glycol(15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol(16)
isostearate, polyethylene glycol(17) isostearate, polyethylene
glycol(18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol(19) isostearate,
polyethylene glycol(20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol(21)
isostearate, polyethylene glycol(22) isostearate, polyethylene
glycol(23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol(24) isostearate,
polyethylene glycol(25) isostearate,
[0121] polyethylene glycol(12) oleate, polyethylene glycol(13)
oleate, polyethylene glycol(14) oleate, polyethylene glycol(15)
oleate, polyethylene glycol(16) oleate, polyethylene glycol(17)
oleate, polyethylene glycol(18) oleate, polyethylene glycol(19)
oleate, polyethylene glycol(20) oleate.
[0122] The ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or salt thereof
which can be used is advantageously sodium laureth-11
carboxylate.
[0123] Sodium laureth-14 sulfate can be used advantageously as
alkyl ether sulfate.
[0124] An advantageous ethoxylated cholesterol derivative which can
be used is polyethylene glycol(30) cholesteryl ether. Polyethylene
glycol(25) soyasterol has also proven successful.
[0125] Ethoxylated triglycerides which can be advantageously used
are polyethylene glycol(60) Evening Primrose glycerides.
[0126] It is also advantageous to choose the polyethylene glycol
glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol(20)
glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol(21) glyceryl laurate,
polyethylene glycol(22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol(23)
glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol(6) glyceryl caprate,
polyethylene glycol(20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol(20)
glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol(18) glyceryl
oleate/cocoate.
[0127] It is likewise favorable to choose the sorbitan esters from
the group polyethylene glycol(20) sorbitan monolaurate,
polyethylene glycol(20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene
glycol(20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol(20)
sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol(20) sorbitan
monooleate.
[0128] Advantageous W/O emulsifiers which can be used are: fatty
alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of
saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched
alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in
particular 12-18, carbon atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated
and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic
acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18,
carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and/or unsaturated,
branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 8
to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, diglycerol ethers of
saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols
having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon
atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated,
branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain
length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, and
sorbitan esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or
unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8
to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms.
[0129] Particularly advantageous W/O emulsifiers are glyceryl
monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate,
glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl
monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol
monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol
monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate,
sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate,
cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol,
isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene
glycol(2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate,
glyceryl monocaprate, glyceryl monocaprylate.
[0130] The gel creams according to the invention can comprise dyes
and/or color pigments. The dyes and color pigments can be chosen
from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Directive or
the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases they are identical
to the dyes approved for foods. Advantageous color pigments are,
for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g.
Fe.sub.2O.sub.3, Fe.sub.3O.sub.4, FeO(OH)) and/or tin oxide.
Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome
oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet. It is
particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and/or color pigments
from the following list. The Colour Index Numbers (CIN) are taken
from the Rowe Colour Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and
Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971.
1 Chemical or other name CIN Color Pigment Green 10006 green Acid
Green 1 10020 green 2,4-Dinitrohydroxynaphthalene-7-sulfonic acid
10316 yellow Pigment Yellow 1 11680 yellow Pigment Yellow 3 11710
yellow Pigment Orange 1 11725 orange 2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzene 11920
orange Solvent Red 3 12010 red
1-(2'-Chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo)-2-hydr- oxynaphthalene 12085
red Pigment Red 3 12120 red Ceres red; Sudan red; Fat Red G 12150
red Pigment Red 112 12370 red Pigment Red 7 12420 red Pigment Brown
1 12480 brown
4-(2'-Methoxy-5'-sulfodiethylamido-1'-phenylazo)-3-hydroxy-5"-
12490 red chloro-2",4"-dimethoxy-2-naphthanilide Disperse Yellow 16
12700 yellow 1-(4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-4-aminobenzene-5-sulfonic acid
13015 yellow 2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzene-4'-sulfonic acid 14270 orange
2-(2,4-Dimethylphenylazo-5-sulfo)-1-hydroxynaphthalene-4-su- lfonic
14700 red acid 2-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-1-naphthol-4- -sulfonic
acid 14720 red 2-(6-Sulfo-2,4-xylylazo)-1-naphthol-5-sulf- onic
acid 14815 red 1-(4'-Sulfophenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene 15510
orange 1-(2-Sulfo-4-chloro-5-carboxy-1-phenylazo)-2-hydroxyn-
aphthalene 15525 red
1-(3-Methylphenylazo-4-sulfo)-2-hydroxynaphtha- lene 15580 red
1-(4',(8')-Sulfonaphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene 15620 red
2-Hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid 15630 red
3-Hydroxy-4-phenylazo-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15800 red
1-(2-Sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15850
red 1-(2-Sulfo-4-methyl-5-chloro-1-phenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene-
15865 red 3-carboxylic acid 1-(2-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-hydroxyna-
phthalene-3-carboxylic acid 15880 red
1-(3-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-nap- hthol-6-sulfonic acid 15980 orange
1-(4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-naphth- ol-6-sulfonic acid 15985 yellow
Allura Red 16035 red
1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 16185 red
Acid Orange 10 16230 orange 1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-6-
,8-disulfonic acid 16255 red
1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-3- ,6,8-trisulfonic acid 16290
red 8-Amino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-- disulfonic acid 17200 red
Acid Red 1 18050 red Acid Red 155 18130 red Acid Yellow 121 18690
yellow Acid Red 180 18736 red Acid Yellow 11 18820 yellow Acid
Yellow 17 18965 yellow
4-(4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-5-hydroxy- 19140 yellow
pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid Pigment Yellow 16 20040 yellow
2,6-(4'-Sulfo-2",4"-dimethyl)bisphenylazo)-1,3-dihydroxybenzene
20170 orange Acid Black 1 20470 black Pigment Yellow 13 21100
yellow Pigment Yellow 83 21108 yellow Solvent Yellow 21230 yellow
Acid Red 163 24790 red Acid Red 73 27290 red
2-[4'-(4"-Sulfo-1"-phenylazo)-7'-sulfo-1'-naphthylazo]-1-hydroxy-
27755 black 7-aminonaphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid
4'-[(4"-Sulfo-1"-phenylazo)-7'-sulfo-1'-naphthylazo]-1-hydroxy-
28440 black 8-acetylaminonaphthalene-3,5-disulfonic acid Direct
Orange 34, 39, 44, 46, 60 40215 orange Food Yellow 40800 orange
trans-.beta.-Apo-8'-carotinaldehyde (C.sub.30) 40820 orange
trans-Apo-8'-carotinic acid (C.sub.30)-ethyl ester 40825 orange
Canthaxanthin 40850 orange Acid Blue 1 42045 blue
2,4-Disulfo-5-hydroxy-4'-4"-bis(diethylamino)triphenylcarbinol
42051 blue 4-[(4-N-Ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino)phenyl(4-hydroxy- 42053
green 2-sulfophenyl)(methylene)-1-(N-ethyl-N-p-sulfobenzyl)-
2,5-cyclohexadienimine] Acid Blue 7 42080 blue
(N-Ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino)phenyl(2-sulfophenyl)methylene- 42090
blue (N-ethyl-N-p-sulfobenzyl).DELTA..sup.2,5-cyclohexadienimine
Acid Green 9 42100 green Diethyldisulfobenzyldi-4-amino-2-chlorodi-
-2-methyl- 42170 green fuchsonimmonium Basic Violet 14 42510 violet
Basic Violet 2 42520 violet 2'-Methyl-4'-(N-ethyl-N--
m-sulfobenzyl)amino-4"-(N-diethyl)amino- 42735 blue
2-methyl-N-ethyl-N-m-sulfobenzylfuchsonimmonium
4'-(N-Dimethyl)amino-4"-(N-phenyl)aminonaphtho-N-dimethyl- 44045
blue fuchsonimmonium
2-Hydroxy-3,6-disulfo-4,4'-bisdimethylaminonaph- tho- 44090 green
fuchsonimmonium Acid Red 52 45100 red
3-(2'-Methylphenylamino)-6-(2'-methyl-4'-sulfophenylamino)- 45190
violet 9-(2"-carboxyphenyl)xanthenium salt Acid Red 50 45220 red
Phenyl-2-oxyfluorone-2-carboxylic acid 45350 yellow
4,5-Dibromofluorescein 45370 orange 2,4,5,7-Tetrabromofluorescein
45380 red Solvent Dye 45396 orange Acid Red 98 45405 red
3',4',5',6'-Tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein 45410 red
4,5-Diiodofluorescein 45425 red 2,4,5,7-Tetraiodofluorescein 45430
red Quinophthalone 47000 yellow Quinophthalonedisulfonic acid 47005
yellow Acid Violet 50 50325 violet Acid Black 2 50420 black Pigment
Violet 23 51319 violet 1,2-Dioxyanthraquinone, calcium-aluminum
complex 58000 red 3-Oxypyrene-5,8,10-sulfonic acid 59040 green
1-Hydroxy-4-N-phenylaminoanthraquinone 60724 violet
1-Hydroxy-4-(4'-methylphenylamino)anthraquinone 60725 violet Acid
Violet 23 60730 violet 1,4-Di(4'-methylphenylamino)anthraquinone
61565 green 1,4-Bis(o-sulfo-p-toluidino)anthraquinone 61570 green
Acid Blue 80 61585 blue Acid Blue 62 62045 blue
N,N'-Dihydro-1,2,1',2'-anthraquinone azine 69800 blue Vat Blue 6;
Pigment Blue 64 69825 blue Vat Orange 7 71105 orange Indigo 73000
blue Indigo-disulfonic acid 73015 blue
4,4'-Dimethyl-6,6'-dichlorothioindigo 73360 red
5,5'-Dichloro-7,7'-dimethylthioindigo 73385 violet Quinacridone
Violet 19 73900 violet Pigment Red 122 73915 red Pigment Blue 16
74100 blue Phthalocyanine 74160 blue Direct Blue 86 74180 blue
Chlorinated phthalocyanine 74260 green Natural Yellow 6,19; Natural
Red 1 75100 yellow Bixin, Norbixin 75120 orange Lycopene 75125
yellow trans-alpha-, beta- and gamma-carotene 75130 orange Keto-
and/or hydroxyl derivates of carotene 75135 yellow Guanine or
pearlescent agent 75170 white
1,7-Bis(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1,6-heptadiene-3,5-dione 75300
yellow Complex salt (Na, Al, Ca) of carminic acid 75470 red
Chlorophyll a and b; copper compounds of chlorophylls and 75810
green chlorophyllins Aluminum 77000 white Hydrated alumina 77002
white Hydrous aluminum silicates 77004 white Ultramarine 77007 blue
Pigment Red 101 and 102 77015 red Barium sulfate 77120 white
Bismuth oxychloride and its mixtures with mica 77163 white Calcium
carbonate 77220 white Calcium sulfate 77231 white Carbon 77266
black Pigment black 9 77267 black Carbo medicinalis vegetabilis
77268:1 black Chromium oxide 77288 green Chromium oxide, hydrous
77289 green Pigment Blue 28, Pigment Green 14 77346 green Pigment
Metal 2 77400 brown Gold 77480 brown Iron oxides and hydroxides
77489 orange Iron oxide 77491 red Hydrated iron oxide 77492 yellow
Iron oxide 77499 black Mixtures of iron(II)- and
iron(III)hexacyanoferrate 77510 blue Pigment White 18 77713 white
Manganese ammonium diphosphate 77742 violet Manganese phosphate;
Mn.sub.3 (P0.sub.4).sub.2.7 H.sub.2O 77745 red Silver 77820 white
Titanium dioxide and its mixtures with mica 77891 white Zinc oxide
77947 white 6,7-Dimethyl-9-(1'-D-ribityl)i- soalloxazine,
lactoflavine yellow Sugar coloring brown Capsanthin, capsorubin
orange Betanin red Benzopyrylium salts, anthocyans red Aluminum,
zinc, magnesium and calcium stearate white Bromothymol blue blue
Bromocresol green green Acid Red 195 red
[0131] It may also be favorable to choose as dye one or more
substances from the following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene,
1-(2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo)-2-hydroxy-naphthalene, Ceres
Red, 2-(4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium
salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and
barium salts of
1-(2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium
salt of 1-(2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic
acid, aluminum salt of
1-(4-sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt
of 1-(4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid,
1-(4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum
salt of
4-(4-sulfo-1-phenylazo)-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-5-hydroxypyrazolone-3-c-
arboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of
4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of
2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein,
3',4',5',6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its
aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein,
aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of
indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red)
and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese
ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.
[0132] Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as, for
example, paprika extracts, .beta.-carotene or cochenille.
[0133] Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention
are gel creams with a content of pearlescent pigments. Preference
is given in particular to the types of pearlescent pigments listed
below:
[0134] 1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as, for example
[0135] "pearl essence" (guanine/hypoxanthin mixed crystals from
fish scales) and
[0136] "mother of pearl" (ground mussel shells)
[0137] 2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments, such as, for
example, bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)
[0138] 3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. mica/metal oxide.
[0139] Bases for pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent
pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and/or
titanium dioxide, and bismuth oxychloride and/or titanium dioxide
on mica. The luster pigment listed under CIN 77163, for example, is
particularly advantageous.
[0140] Also advantageous are, for example, the following types of
pearlescent pigment based on mica/metal oxide:
2 Group Coating/layer thickness Color Silver-white pearlescent
TiO.sub.2: 40-60 nm Silver pigments Interference pigments
TiO.sub.2: 60-80 nm Yellow TiO.sub.2: 80-100 nm Red TiO.sub.2:
100-140 nm Blue TiO.sub.2: 120-160 nm Green Color luster pigments
Fe.sub.2O.sub.3 Bronze Fe.sub.2O.sub.3 Copper Fe.sub.2O.sub.3 Red
Fe.sub.2O.sub.3 Red-violet Fe.sub.2O.sub.3 Red-green
Fe.sub.2O.sub.3 Black Combination pigments TiO.sub.2/Fe.sub.2O.sub-
.3 Gold shades TiO.sub.2/Cr.sub.2O.sub.3 Green TiO.sub.2/Berlin
blue Deep blue TiO.sub.2/carmine Red
[0141] Particular preference is given, for example, to the
pearlescent pigments obtainable from Merck under the trade names
Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
[0142] The list of given pearlescent pigments is not of course
intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are
advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are
obtainable by numerous methods known per se. For example, other
substrates apart from mica can be coated with further metal oxides,
such as, for example, silica and the like. SiO.sub.2 particles
coated with, for example, TiO.sub.2 and Fe.sub.2O.sub.3
("ronaspheres"), which are marketed by Merck and are particularly
suitable for the optical reduction of fine lines, are
advantageous.
[0143] It can moreover be advantageous to dispense completely with
a substrate such as mica. Particular preference is given to iron
pearlescent pigments prepared without the use of mica. Such
pigments are obtainable, for example, under the trade name
Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 from BASF.
[0144] In addition, also particularly advantageous are effect
pigments which are obtainable under the trade name Metasome
Standard/Glitter in various colors (yellow, red, green, blue) from
Flora Tech. The glitter particles are present here in mixtures with
various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with
the Colour Index (CI) Numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
[0145] The dyes and pigments may be present either individually or
in a mixture, and can be mutually coated with one another,
different coating thicknesses generally giving rise to different
color effects. The total amount of dyes and color-imparting
pigments is advantageously chosen from the range from e.g. 0.1% by
weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in
particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the
total weight of the preparations.
[0146] The gel creams according to the invention can, in
particular, advantageously be used as eyeshadows.
[0147] Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained
when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
According to the invention, the preparations advantageously
comprise one or more antioxidants. Antioxidants which are favorable
but which are nevertheless optional may be all antioxidants which
are customary or suitable for cosmetic and/or dermatological
applications.
[0148] It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the
preparations according to the invention. The antioxidants are
advantageously chosen from the group consisting of amino acids
(e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives
thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof,
peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and
derivatives thereof (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g.
.alpha.-carotene, .beta.-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives
thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and
derivatives thereof (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothio-glucose,
propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione,
cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl,
ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl,
.gamma.-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and
salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl
thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof
(esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and
salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines,
homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-,
heptathionine sulphoximine) in very low tolerated doses (e.g. pmol
to .mu.mol/kg), and also (metal) chelating agents (e.g.
.alpha.-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid,
lactoferrin), .alpha.-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid,
malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin,
biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty
acids and derivatives thereof (e.g. .gamma.-linolenic acid,
linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof,
ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and
derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate,
ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E
acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and
coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives
thereof, .alpha.-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid,
furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene,
butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic
acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof,
mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (e.g.
ZnO, ZnSO.sub.4), selenium and derivatives thereof (e.g.
selenomethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (e.g. stilbene
oxide, trans-stilbene oxide), and the derivatives (salts, esters,
ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of
said active ingredients which are suitable according to the
invention.
[0149] For the purposes of the present invention, oil-soluble
antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously.
[0150] A surprising property of the present invention is that
preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for
cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients into the skin,
preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which are able to
protect the skin against oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants
are vitamin E and derivatives thereof and vitamin A and derivatives
thereof.
[0151] The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the
preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight,
particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by
weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
[0152] If vitamin E and/or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant
or antioxidants, the respective concentrations thereof are
advantageously chosen from the range 0.001-10% by weight, based on
the total weight of the formulation.
[0153] If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or
derivatives thereof are used as the antioxidant or antioxidants,
the respective concentrations thereof are advantageously chosen
from the range 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of
the formulation.
[0154] The person skilled in the art is of course aware that
cosmetic preparations are in most cases inconceivable without the
customary auxiliaries and additives. The cosmetic and
dermatological preparations according to the invention can,
accordingly, also comprise cosmetic auxiliaries, as are customarily
used in such preparations, for example bodying agents, stabilizers,
fillers, preservatives, perfumes, antifoams, dyes, pigments which
have a coloring action, thickeners, surface-active substances,
emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizers and/or humectants,
anti-inflammatory substances, additional active ingredients such as
vitamins or proteins, sunscreens, insect repellants, bactericides,
virucides, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic
substances, medicaments or other customary constituents of a
cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols,
polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or also
electrolytes.
[0155] The latter can be chosen, for example, from the group of
salts containing the following anions: chlorides, also inorganic
oxo element anions, of these, in particular sulfates, carbonates,
phosphates, borates and aluminates. Electrolytes based on organic
anions are also advantageous, e.g. lactates, acetates, benzoates,
propionates, tartrates, citrates, amino acids,
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and salts thereof and others.
Preferred cations of the salts are ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali
metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron or zinc ions. It goes
without saying that only physiologically acceptable electrolytes
should be used in cosmetics. Particular preference is given to
potassium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc
sulfate and mixtures thereof.
[0156] Corresponding requirements apply mutatis mutandis to the
formulation of medicinal preparations.
[0157] The gel creams according to the invention can be used as a
base for cosmetic or dermatological formulations. The latter can
have the customary composition and be used, for example, for the
treatment and care of the skin and/or the hair, as lip care
product, as deodorant product and as make-up or make-up remover
product in decorative cosmetics or as a sunscreen preparation. For
use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the
invention are applied to the skin and/or the hair in a sufficient
amount in a manner customary for cosmetics or dermatological
compositions.
[0158] For the purposes of the present invention, cosmetic or
topical dermatological compositions can accordingly, depending on
their composition, be used, for example, as a skin protection
cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, day or
night cream, etc. In some circumstances it is possible and
advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as
a base for pharmaceutical formulations.
[0159] The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the
invention can, for example, be in the form of preparations which
can be sprayed from aerosol containers, squeezable bottles or by
means of a pump device, or in the form of a liquid composition
which can be applied by means of roll-on devices, but also in the
form of an emulsion which can be applied from normal bottles and
containers.
[0160] Suitable propellants for cosmetic or dermatological
preparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers for the
purposes of the present invention are the customary known readily
volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane,
butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with
one another. Compressed air is also used advantageously.
[0161] The person skilled in the art is of course aware that there
are propellants which are non-toxic per se which would be suitable
in principle for realizing the present invention in the form of
aerosol preparations, but which must nevertheless be avoided
because of their unacceptable impact on the environment or other
accompanying circumstances, in particular fluorocarbons and
chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).
[0162] Those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in
the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. As well as the active
ingredient combinations according to the invention, these
preferably additionally comprise at least one UV-A filter substance
and/or at least one UV-B filter substance and/or at least one
inorganic pigment.
[0163] For the purposes of the present invention, however, it is
also advantageous to provide those cosmetic and dermatological
preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight,
but which nevertheless have a content of UV protectants. Thus, for
example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated
into day creams.
[0164] UV protectants, like antioxidants and, if desired,
preservatives, also effectively protect the preparations themselves
against decay.
[0165] Furthermore, preparations according to the invention can
advantageously comprise substances which absorb UV radiation in the
UV-B range, the total amount of filter substances being, for
example, from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5
to 10% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based
on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide
cosmetic preparations which protect the hair and/or the skin from
the whole region of ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used as
sunscreens for the hair or the skin.
[0166] If the emulsions according to the invention comprise UV-B
filter substances, the latter may be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
Examples of oil-soluble UV-B filters which are advantageous
according to the invention are:
[0167] 3-benzylidenecamphor derivatives, preferably
3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor;
[0168] 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl
4-(dimethyl-amino)benzoate, amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate;
[0169] esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl
4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate;
[0170] esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl
salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl
salicylate;
[0171] derivatives of benzophenone, preferably
2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophe- none,
2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone,
2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy-- benzophenone;
[0172] esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di(2-ethylhexyl)
4-methoxy-benzalmalonate;
[0173] derivatives of 1,3,5-triazine, preferably
2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-- 2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)-1
,3,5-triazine.
[0174] The list of said UV-B filters, which may be used in
combination with the active ingredient combinations according to
the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
[0175] It can also be advantageous to formulate lipodispersions
according to the invention with UV-A filters which have hitherto
been customarily present in cosmetic preparations. These substances
are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular
1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-- (4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione and
1-phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)pro- pane-1,3-dione.
[0176] Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the
invention can also comprise inorganic pigments which are
customarily used in cosmetics for protecting the skin against UV
rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon,
manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, and modifications
in which the oxides are the active agents. Particular preference is
given to pigments based on titanium dioxide.
[0177] Further constituents which can be used are:
[0178] fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty
substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low
carbon number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol,
or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low carbon
number or with fatty acids;
[0179] alcohols, diols or polyols of low carbon number, and ethers
thereof, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol,
glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl
ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ethers,
diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ethers and analogous
products.
[0180] The examples below serve to illustrate the present invention
without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples refer to
percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective
preparations.
3 % by wt Example 1 (hydrodispersion gel): PEG-8 (polyethylene
glycol 400) 5.00 Ethanol 10.00 Aristoflex AVC 0.70 Triglyceride,
liquid 1.50 Glycerol 5.00 Panthenol 0.50 Tocopherol acetate 0.50
Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, q.s. dyes, antioxidants etc. Water ad
100.00 Example 2 (hydrodispersion gel): Xanthan gum 0.20 Aristoflex
AVC 1.00 Glycerol 5.00 1,3-Butylene glycol 2.00 Dimethicone 3.00
Isopropyl palmitate 1.50 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, q.s. dyes,
antioxidants, pigments etc. Water ad 100.00 Example 3: Sucrose
stearate 1.00 Cetearyl alcohol 0.50 PEG-5 soyasterol 2.00
Tocopherol 1.00 Aristoflex AVC 1.00 Glycerol 3.00 EDTA 0.50
Antioxidants, preservatives, q.s. neutralizing agents, perfume,
dyes, pigments Water ad 100.00 Example 4: Glycerol monostearate
2.00 PEG-40 glyceryl stearate 0.50 Aristoflex AVC 1.00 Magnesium
aluminum silicate 0.30 Glycerol 5.00 1,3-Butylene glycol 2.00
Panthenol 2.50 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, complexing agent, q.s.
dyes, antioxidants, pigments etc. Water ad 100.00 Example 5:
Glyceryl stearate citrate 1.50 Cetyl alcohol 0.50 Jojoba oil 2.00
Aristoflex AVC 0.50 Chitosan 0.50 Lactic acid (90% strength) 0.30
Glycerol 5.00 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, q.s. dyes,
antioxidants, pigments etc. Water ad 100.00 Example 6:
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate 2.00 Sorbitan stearate 0.50
Glycerol 3.00 C.sub.12-15-Alkyl benzoates 5.00 Caprylic/capric
triglycerides 3.00 Aristoflex AVC 0.50 Perfume, preservatives,
NaOH, dyes, q.s. antioxidants, pigments etc. Water ad 100.00
Example 7: Decyl glucoside 1.00 Glyceryl lanolate 1.50 Dimethicone
copolyol 2.00 Triceteareth-4 phosphate 0.70 Panthenol 1.50
Isopropyl palmitate 1.00 Aristoflex AVC 1.00 Perfume,
preservatives, NaOH, q.s. dyes, antioxidants, pigments etc. Water
ad 100.00 Example 8: Stearyl alcohol 2.00 Caprylic/capric
triglycerides 2.00 Paraffin oil 2.00 Octyldodecanol 3.00 Glycerol
3.00 Acrylates/C.sub.10-30-alk- yl acrylate cross polymer 0.15
Aristoflex AVC 0.20 Tocopheryl acetate 0.50 Perfume, preservatives,
NaOH, q.s. dyes, antioxidants, pigments etc. Water, demineralized
ad 100.00
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