U.S. patent application number 09/756956 was filed with the patent office on 2002-09-12 for process for patterning textile materials and fabrics made therefrom.
Invention is credited to Cliver, James D., Lovingood, Scott, Moore, F. Jeffery, Williams, Dale R..
Application Number | 20020124323 09/756956 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 25045765 |
Filed Date | 2002-09-12 |
United States Patent
Application |
20020124323 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Cliver, James D. ; et
al. |
September 12, 2002 |
Process for patterning textile materials and fabrics made
therefrom
Abstract
A process for patterning textile materials is described. The
process involves applying a water soluble chemical substance
designed to mechanically inhibit the wetting of underlying regions
of the fabric to a textile fabric in a predetermined pattern, then
dyeing the fabric in a manner conventionally used to uniformly dye
fabrics, such as by a continuous or semi-continuous dye process.
The chemical substance which has been applied to the fabric
functions to temporarily mechanically inhibit wetting of the
underlying regions of the fabric, so that the underlying portions
are dyed to a lesser extent than the surrounding regions. The
resulting fabrics have good print characteristics without the
physical strength degradation of irregular hand associated with
patterned fabrics produced by conventional fabric patterning
methods.
Inventors: |
Cliver, James D.;
(Spartanburg, SC) ; Lovingood, Scott; (Inman,
SC) ; Moore, F. Jeffery; (Mauldin, SC) ;
Williams, Dale R.; (Greer, SC) |
Correspondence
Address: |
Terry T. Moyer
P. O. Box 1927
Spartanburg
SC
29304
US
|
Family ID: |
25045765 |
Appl. No.: |
09/756956 |
Filed: |
January 9, 2001 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
8/115.51 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D06P 5/12 20130101; D06P
1/48 20130101; D06P 1/46 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
8/115.51 |
International
Class: |
D06M 010/00 |
Claims
We claim:
1. A process for manufacturing patterned fabrics comprising the
steps of: applying a water soluble chemical substance designed to
inhibit wetting to selected regions of a fabric to define treated
and untreated regions forming a pattern; exposing the fabric to an
aqueous dye liquor until said untreated regions are saturated while
said treated regions are less than fully saturated, to thereby form
a patterned fabric.
2. The process according to claim 1, wherein said chemical
substance comprises a substance selected from the group consisting
of alginate print pastes, synthetic print pastes, fluorochemicals
and combinations thereof.
3. The process according to claim 1, wherein said chemical
substance comprises a print paste.
4. The process according to claim 3, wherein said chemical
substance consists essentially of a print paste.
5. The process according to claim 1, wherein said chemical
substance comprises a fluorocarbon.
6. The process according to claim 1, wherein said chemical
substance comprises a fluorocarbon and a print paste.
7. The process according to claim 1, wherein said chemical
substance further comprises a dye.
8. The process according to claim 1, wherein said chemical
substance comprises an optical brightener.
9. The process according to claim 1, wherein said chemical
substance comprises a dye and a print paste.
10. The process according to claim 1, wherein said step of dyeing
is performed by a continuous or semi-continuous dye process.
11. The process according to claim 1, wherein said step of dyeing
is performed by a process selected from the group consisting of
thermosol dye processes, pad/steam processes, thermosol/pad/steam
processes, cold pad batch dyeing, jig dye processes, and
combinations thereof.
12. The process according to claim 11, wherein said step of
continuously dyeing is performed using a thermosol dye process.
13. The process according to claim 11, wherein said step of
continuously dyeing is performed using a pad/steam process.
14. The process according to claim 1, wherein said fabric comprises
fibers selected from the group consisting of polyester, cotton,
PLA, PTT, nylon, rayon, and blends thereof.
15. The process according to claim 1, wherein said fabric comprises
polyester, and the step of dyeing is performed using a thermosol or
pad/steam dye process.
16. The process according to claim 1, wherein said step of dyeing
comprises dyeing the fabric with a dyestuff selected from the group
consisting of disperse dyes, reactive dyes, direct dyes, vat dyes,
acid dyes, and sulfur dyes.
17. A fabric made according to the process of claim 1.
18. The process according to claim 1, wherein said step of applying
a chemical substrate is performed by a method selected from the
group consisting of flexographic printing, gravure roll
application, roller bed printing, roller screen printing, flick
brush, ultrasonic spray, multiple nozzle injection patterning, and
print head pattern methods.
19. The process according to claim 1, wherein said step of applying
the chemical substance defines a first pattern, and further
comprising the step of applying a second chemical substance in a
second pattern which is different from the first pattern, to
thereby form a multi-colored fabric.
20. The process according to claim 19, wherein at least one of said
first and second chemical substances comprises a dye.
21. The process according to claim 1, wherein said fabric comprises
at least two types of fibers, and said step of dyeing the fabric
comprises dyeing less than all of said at least two types of
fibers, to thereby form a heather fabric.
22. A process for manufacturing patterned fabrics from a dye
process comprising the steps of: applying a chemical substance to
selected regions of a fabric, said chemical substance being adapted
to prevent total saturation of underlying fabric regions to which
it is applied without requiring a subsequent operation to remove it
from the fabric; and dyeing the fabric, to thereby produce a
patterned fabric.
23. The process according to claim 22, wherein said step of dyeing
is performed by a continuous or semi-continuous dye process.
24. The process according to claim 22, wherein said step of dyeing
is performed by a process selected from the group consisting of
thermosol dye processes, pad/steam processes, thermosol/pad/steam
processes, cold pad batch dyeing, jig dye processes, and
combinations thereof.
25. The process according to claim 22, wherein said step of dyeing
comprises exposing the entire piece of fabric to at least one dye
bath.
26. The process according to claim 22, wherein said chemical
substance comprises a substance selected from the group consisting
of alginate print pastes, synthetic print pastes, fluorochemicals,
and combinations thereof.
27. The process according to claim 25, wherein said chemical
substance consists essentially of a print paste.
28. The process according to claim 22, wherein said chemical
substance consists essentially of a fluorocarbon.
29. The process according to claim 22, wherein said chemical
substance comprises a fluorocarbon and a print paste.
30. The process according to claim 22, wherein said chemical
substance further comprises a dye.
31. The process according to claim 22, wherein said fabric
comprises fibers selected from the group consisting of polyester,
cotton, PLA, PTT, nylon, rayon, and blends thereof.
32. The process according to claim 22, wherein said step of
applying a chemical substrate is performed by a method selected
from the group consisting of flexographic printing, gravure roll
application, roller bed printing, roller screen printing, foam
application, flick brush, ultrasonic spray, multiple nozzle
injection patterning, and print head pattern methods.
33. The process according to claim 22, wherein said step of
applying the chemical substance defines a first pattern, and
further comprising the step of applying a second chemical substance
in a second pattern which is different from the first pattern, to
thereby form a multi-colored fabric.
34. The process according to claim 33, wherein at least one of said
first and second chemical substances comprises a dye.
35. The process according to claim 22, wherein said fabric
comprises at least two types of fibers, and said step of dyeing the
fabric comprises dyeing less than all of said at least two types of
fibers, to thereby form a heather fabric.
36. A fabric made according to the process of claim 22.
37. A fabric according to claim 22, wherein the pattern mimics the
pattern of the yarns forming the fabric.
38. A process for manufacturing patterned fabrics comprising the
steps of: applying a water soluble chemical substance designed to
inhibit wetting to a fabric to define treated and untreated fabric
regions; and exposing said fabric to an aqueous dye, such that said
treated regions are wet by said aqueous dye to a lesser extent than
said untreated regions, thereby forming a pattern of relatively
dissimilar colors as a result of their relative differences in
uptake of the aqueous dye.
39. The process according to claim 38, wherein said chemical
substance comprises a substance selected from the group consisting
of alginate print pastes, synthetic print pastes, fluorochemicals,
and combinations thereof.
40. The process according to claim 38, wherein said step of
exposing the fabric to a dye comprises dyeing the fabric by a
continuous or semi-continuous dye process.
41. The process according to claim 38, wherein said water soluble
chemical substance includes a dye, to thereby dye the treated
fabric regions a different color from the aqueous dye.
42. A fabric made by the process of claim 38.
43. A patterned textile fabric having a predetermined pattern of
color defined by regions of greater and lesser uptake of the same
color of equally applied dye, wherein said regions of lesser dye
uptake of the finished fabric have substantially the same physical
strength as said regions of greater dye uptake.
44. The fabric according to claim 43, wherein said fabric comprises
fibers selected from the group consisting of polyester, cotton,
PLA, PTT, nylon, rayon, and blends thereof.
45. The fabric according to claim 43, wherein transitions between
said regions of greater and lesser uptake of the dye are sharply
defined.
46. The fabric according to claim 43, wherein yarns forming the
fabric are ring dyed.
47. The fabric according to claim 43, wherein the predetermined
pattern of color simulate the construction of a fabric, to thereby
provide the appearance of a yarn-dyed fabric.
48. The fabric according to claim 43, wherein said fabric is a
woven fabric and the predetermined pattern of color comprises
stripes extending in at least one of the warp and filling
directions of the woven fabric.
49. A process for patterning fabrics comprising the steps of:
applying in a pattern to a fabric a chemical substance capable of
temporarily mechanically inhibiting the wetting of underlying
regions of the fabric; and dyeing the fabric by a non-exhaust dye
method, to thereby form a patterned fabric.
50. The process according to claim 49, wherein said chemical
substance mechanically inhibits the wetting of the fabric without
chemically bonding the dye sites thereof.
51. A fabric made according to the process of claim 49.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The invention generally relates to a process for patterning
textile materials. More specifically, the invention relates to a
process for producing patterned textile materials using a dye
process conventionally used for dyeing solid fabrics, and fabrics
made using the process.
BACKGROUND
[0002] Textile manufacturers are continually striving to achieve
products having unique and different appearances. While designers
can create seemingly infinite quantities of looks for fabrics, the
fabric manufacturers must take into account such things as
machinery capabilities, costs of raw materials, labor input and
processing expenses, performance characteristics required of the
fabric, and the like. Thus, the creativity of the designers is
often limited by the ability of the manufacturers to efficiently
produce the fabrics according to their designs.
[0003] One traditional way of achieving patterned fabrics is by
forming the fabric from alternating regions of differently colored,
previously dyed yarns. The fabrics made in this manner are called
yarn-dyed fabrics, and are used in the manufacture of such fabrics
as woven striped broadcloth (e.g., of the variety commonly used in
men's dress shirts). While providing a desirable appearance in many
respects, there are some disadvantages to yarn-dyed fabrics, the
main being that the yarns must be dyed in advance to the colors
desired for use in the product. As will be readily apparent to
those of ordinary skill in the art, this adds significantly to the
lead time required to produce the fabric (since colors must be
determined and the yarns dyed to achieve those colors prior to the
fabric formation process) and it can be expensive to produce small
lots of particular color combinations.
[0004] In addition, the fabric formation equipment (e.g. the loom
or knitting machine) must be specifically set up to achieve the
particular pattern desired. This can result in significant machine
downtime between color and pattern changes. Furthermore, yarn-dyed
fabrics have a tendency to shrink differentially due to component
yarns having been exposed to different temperatures and conditions
during their respective dyeing and processing conditions. As a
result, yarn-dyed fabrics often pucker along the regions of
transition between one yarn color and another following laundering.
In summary, the yarn-dyed products require undesirably long lead
times and manufacturing complexity, while achieving products that
may have undesirable side-to-side variation.
[0005] Attempts have been made to achieve patterned fabrics by
means other than the use of differently colored yarns in the fabric
formation process. For example, fabrics are often directly printed
with variously colored patterns. In this method, the colors for the
desired designs are applied directly to the undyed or previously
dyed fabric. The disadvantages of this type of patterning are
twofold. First, where colors are being printed over a previously
dyed fabric, the color palette is limited based upon the base
shade. This is because some colors used in patterning will not be
visible or will be changed because of the base shade showing
through. An example would be a blue pattern printed on a yellow
base shade. After printing, the pattern would likely appear to be
green. Furthermore, a yellow pattern printed on the yellow base may
not be visible at all. Therefore, with very dark base shades, very
few printed dyes would be visible. This limits the designer to
using only certain colors with particular base shades or dictates
the use of an undyed base fabric in order to use the full color
palette.
[0006] The second disadvantage of this type of patterning is
encountered when using pigments to print over a base shade. It is
generally known that the above-described problem of color
limitations can be overcome by printing pigments onto the surface
of a dyed fabric as is commonly done in plastisol printing. In this
way, even white and light colors can be patterned onto very dark
backgrounds and the color selection is not limited. However, the
resulting pattern has a somewhat stiff and/or rubbery feel and may
have a raised appearance as compared to the feel and appearance of
the unpatterned area. In many apparel applications, this is not
desirable. Furthermore, with repeated launderings and/or abrasion,
the printed pattern may eventually become brittle, crack and peel
off.
[0007] Another method commonly used is called discharge printing.
In discharge printing, the fabric is dyed (typically piece dyed),
then printed in a pattern with a paste containing a chemical that
reduces the dye, to thereby form white patterns within the dyed
background. A colorant may also be added to the discharge paste so
that the discharged color is replaced with another color. The
discharge chemistry can tend to be harsh and often weakens the
portions of the fabric to which it is applied, thereby reducing the
overall strength of the fabric. Another disadvantage of this type
processing is that only dyes that readily discharge to white when
subjected to chemical reducing agents can be selected or there will
be residual color left in the patterned area. This type of
chemistry adds to the cost and reduces the flexibility of the
process.
[0008] Another method used to produce patterned fabrics is called
resist printing. In resist printing, a substance designed to resist
dyeing of the fabric is applied to the fabric in a pattern. The
fabric is then dyed using a discontinuous dye process. In prior
resist printing processes, the resist agent was typically a water
insoluble medium. Examples of patterning processes which use water
insoluble media are batik, which uses wax, and tie dyeing, which
uses elastic bands or the like to inhibit the dyeing of the fabric
in particular regions. As will be readily appreciated by those of
ordinary skill in the art, the use of these media requires an
additional processing operation to remove the dye-inhibiting
medium. Where the dye-inhibiting medium is wax, the removal process
can be difficult and can result in damage to the underlying fabric
regions. In tie-dye processes, removal of the bands is likewise
labor intensive. Furthermore, processes such as tie-dyeing are
limited in the types of design configurations they can be used to
produce, and the wax used in batik does not enable the portions of
the fabric where it is applied to be simultaneously dyed a
different color from the rest of the fabric.
[0009] Another type of resist printing involves the chemical
binding of the dye sites of the fibers in particular regions of the
fabric. Typically, the resist chemistry will be printed on the
fabric in a particular pattern prior to dyeing of the fabric. One
example of this method is described in U. S. Pat. No. 5,984,977 to
Moore et al. which describes the use of a substance designed to
chemically block the dye sites of a cellulosic material during a
discontinuous dye process. Because the dye sites are bound by the
resist chemistry, the fabric will not dye in the regions where the
chemistry has been applied. While performing well in many
applications, this process is somewhat limited in that the resist
chemistry must be selected to chemically block the dye sites of the
particular fibers in the fabric, which may present a problem when
the fabric to be patterned is made from a blend of fibers. For one,
if one fiber in the blend is blocked and the other fiber is not
prevented from dyeing, then a total resist of the patterned area
cannot be achieved unless the unblocked fiber is left undyed. This
results in a heather effect on the base shade of the fabric,
thereby limiting design flexibility. In addition, commercially
available chemical resist processes are marketed for use in
discontinuous dye processes, which have lower production speeds as
compared with continuous and semi-continuous processes. Also, such
resist chemistries are generally deleterious to fabric
strength.
[0010] Finally, heat transfer printing is also used to pattern
fabrics. This method uses a paper printed with dyes that are
subject to sublimation upon heating. The paper is placed in direct
contact with the fabric and heat is applied to transfer the dyes
from the paper to the fabric by sublimation. Largely used with
disperse dyes on polyester, heat transfer printing is normally
performed in a dry state, with the heat applied also serving to
diffuse the dye into the fiber. This method is primarily limited to
disperse dyes that readily sublime. A variation of this method
where the heat transfer is done in a wet state allows other dye
classes to be used that will readily transfer from the paper to the
fabric in the vapor phase. Still, the dye selection is limited and
a two-step process of printing the paper and then transferring the
dye to the fabric is necessary. Furthermore, resist effects are not
made by this process and designs are therefore limited by the base
shade of the fabric prior to printing.
SUMMARY
[0011] The process of the instant invention enables the production
of patterned fabrics in an efficient manner, while avoiding extra
processing operations required by prior art methods. In addition,
the process enables the production of fabrics having the surface
appearance of yarn-dyed goods, while avoiding the complexity
inherent in yarn-dye manufacturing methods and the fabric strength
degradation provided by other dye methods. Furthermore, the process
enables the manufacture of patterned fabrics using a continuous or
semi-continuous dyeing operation, which achieve greater
manufacturing efficiencies than typical discontinuous processes.
For purposes of this application, the term "continuous or
semi-continuous dye operation" is intended to mean those dye
operations where the fabric generally lingers within the dye bath
for a relatively short period of time, generally as a result of the
continuous motion of the fabric through the process. For example,
continuous and semi-continuous dye operations of the variety
contemplated by the invention include thermosol dye processes,
pad/steam processes, thermosol/pad/steam processes, pad/high
temperature steam operations, jig dye processes, pad batch, and the
like. Such processes are typically non-exhaust type processes. In
contrast, discontinuous dye processes involve the dyeing of a
"batch" of fabric, where the fabric spends an extended
uninterrupted period of time in the dye liquor to achieve even
dyeing through exhaustion and equilibrium.
[0012] The process involves applying to the fabric a chemical
substance capable of temporarily mechanically inhibiting the
wetting of underlying regions of the fabric, and then continuously
or semi-continuously dyeing the fabric. The chemical substance
desirably comprises a print paste. In some embodiments of the
invention, the chemical substance may comprise a fluorochemical. In
some cases, the chemical substance may comprise both fluorochemical
and a print paste. In any event, the chemical substance is selected
so that it mechanically inhibits the wetting of underlying regions
of the fabric to which it is applied, while not requiring removal
from the fabric by way of a separate removal operation. To this
end, the chemical substance is desirably water soluble so that it
is removed, if desired, by the subsequent chemical and/or
mechanical action of the normal dyeing and finishing processes.
[0013] The chemical substance can be selected to either totally
inhibit wetting of the underlying fabric regions or only partially
inhibit the dye uptake such that the underlying fabric regions dye
to a lesser extent than other areas of the fabric where the
chemical substance was not provided. In a similar manner, the
chemical substance can be selected to correspond with the
particular dye process to be utilized so that the chemical
substance is removed shortly before the end of the dye process and
portions of the fabric underlying the chemical substance are wet to
a lesser extent than the base portions of the fabric, thereby
having less of an opportunity to bond with the dye molecules in
those regions. In this way, the portions of the fabric where the
chemical substance was applied are dyed the same color as the
uncovered fabric portions but at a lighter shade level. Therefore,
a fabric having a pattern formed from varied dye uptake amounts in
predetermined regions can be efficiently manufactured.
[0014] The chemical substance may also include a dye such that the
portions of the fabric on which the chemical substance is printed
are dyed a different color than those portions of the fabric dyed
by the subsequent continuous dye process. The invention is not
limited to the application of a single chemical substance, rather
plural different chemical substances could be printed in different
patterns within the scope of the invention. For example, a first
pattern of a chemical substance which does not include dye could be
applied in a first pattern, while a second chemical substance which
does include dye could be applied in a second pattern, to thereby
produce a three-color patterned fabric. Additionally, a three or
more color effect could be achieved using two different chemical
substances having different resist characteristics printed in two
or more different patterns.
[0015] The process of the invention enables the production of
fabrics having a unique yarn-dyed appearance without the
disadvantages associated with yarn-dyed products. For example, in
one aspect of the invention, the pattern printed on the fabric is
selected to correspond to the yarns in the fabric construction, to
thereby give the appearance of a yarn-dyed fabric. In addition, the
patterning capability and pattern clarity of fabrics printed in
this manner far exceeds that of yarn-dyed goods, especially where
intricate designs are desired. Furthermore, the fabrics retain
substantially all of their initial strength, have good
colorfastness, and have superior aesthetic and functional
characteristics.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0016] FIG. 1 is a flow diagram of one embodiment of the process of
the instant invention;
[0017] FIG. 2 is a photograph (40.times. magnification) of a
conventional yarn-dyed product; and
[0018] FIG. 3 is a photograph (40.times. magnification) of a fabric
made according to the invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0019] In the following detailed description of the invention,
specific preferred embodiments of the invention are described to
enable a full and complete understanding of the invention. It will
be recognized that it is not intended to limit the invention to the
particular preferred embodiment described, and although specific
terms are employed in describing the invention, such terms are used
in a descriptive sense for the purpose of illustration and not for
the purpose of limitation.
[0020] With reference to the drawings, FIG. 1 illustrates a process
for manufacturing patterned fabrics according to the instant
invention. As noted, the steps performed in this aspect are
printing resist chemistry on the fabric, drying the chemistry
(optional), applying the dye, pre-drying the dye (if desired),
setting the dye, cooling the fabric (if previously heated),
applying chemistry as desired, reacting the chemistry if necessary,
washing the fabric to remove excess chemistry, and drying and
taking up the fabric. As will be appreciated by those of ordinary
skill in the art, the specific steps used will vary according to
the dye process used, type of fabric being patterned, chemistry
used, pattern sought, etc. The steps will be discussed more
specifically below.
[0021] The fabric to be patterned is obtained. The fabric can be of
any variety, including a woven fabric, a knit fabric, nonwoven
fabric, or the like. The fabric can be formed of any conventional
type of fibers that are capable of being continuously or
semi-continuously dyed, including but not limited to synthetic
fibers such as polyesters (including, but not limited to
polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT)
and modified versions thereof), polyamides, polypropylene, aramids,
polyolefins, regenerated fibers such as polylactide based fibers
(PLA) and rayon (e.g. viscose, cuprammonium), natural fibers such
as cotton, linen, ramie, hemp, jute, or the like, or combinations
thereof. The process of the invention has been found to perform
particularly well in the production of 100% polyester, 100% cotton,
and polyester/cotton blended fabrics. The fabric will be selected
to provide the weight and performance characteristics desired for
the end use product.
[0022] The fabric is desirably in prepared form, meaning that it
has been washed to remove oils, impurities and the like which it
has picked up during the manufacturing and/or transport processes.
Preferably, the fabric is dried as part of the preparation process
so that a consistent product is presented for chemical substance
application and dyeing.
[0023] A chemical substance designed to temporarily inhibit the
wetting of the underlying fabric areas is then applied to the
fabric in a desired pattern. The chemical substance is desirably
applied to the fabric by a printing process. For example, the
printing process can be roller bed printing, rotary screen
printing, flexographic printing, gravure roll application, multiple
nozzle injection patterning (such as that described in
commonly-assigned U.S. Pat. No. 4,923,743), or the like. However,
other application methods are contemplated within the scope of the
invention including, but not limited to flick brush, ultrasonic
spray, foam application,print head pattern methods, and the like.
The chemical substance can be applied in any desired pattern.
Alternatively, the application "pattern" can be that of randomized
spots or the like (e.g. such as those achieved with a flick brush.)
As will be readily appreciated, the regions where the chemistry is
applied will determine the pattern of undyed or differentially dyed
areas on the finished fabric, and the variety of application
patterns is essentially limitless. As a result, the process can be
used to achieve a limitless variety of fabric appearances.
[0024] The chemical substance is designed to physically inhibit the
wetting of underlying regions of the fabric for a period of time.
In one aspect of the invention, the chemical substance is designed
to prevent wetting of the underlying regions of the fabric for a
period of time greater than the fabric is in contact with the
aqueous dye liquor. In another aspect of the invention, the
chemical substance can be selected to prevent saturation of the
underlying regions while allowing some wetting, either by virtue of
the length of time it inhibits wetting or the degree it inhibits
wetting. The fabric may retain the property of being inhibited from
wetting after processing since the downstream processing does not
require the removal of the chemistry. (In contrast, prior means of
mechanically inhibiting the wetting of fabric areas such as wax
require a separate processing step to remove the substance, since
the fabric would not have the aesthetic and performance
characteristics sufficient to render it useful until such time as
that substance was removed.) To this end, the chemical substance is
desirably water soluble.
[0025] Stated differently, the chemical substance is selected to
inhibit wetting of the underlying portions of the fabric, and
preferably to totally inhibit wetting. Where the chemical substance
is designed to partially inhibit wetting of the fabric, it can be
selected to allow underlying portions of the fabric to wet at a
significantly slower rate than the untreated regions, or it can be
selected to inhibit wetting for a period of time somewhat shorter
than the length of the dye process. In this way, portions of the
fabric on which the chemical substance has been printed will be
exposed to a lesser amount of the dye and/or exposed for a lesser
length of time than the untreated fabric regions. As a result, the
portions of the fabric that were treated with the chemical
substance will be dyed the same basic color (hue) as the
surrounding fabric regions, but with a depth of shade ranging from
slightly lighter to much lighter than the untreated regions.
[0026] The chemical substance preferably includes a print paste
comprising a thickening agent and water. In some forms of the
invention, the chemical substance includes a fluorochemical. In
some forms of the invention, the chemical substance includes both a
print paste and a fluorochemical. In any event, the chemical
substance is selected so that it inhibits the wetting of underlying
regions of the fabric to which it is applied, while not requiring
removal from the fabric by way of a separate removal operation, as
will be discussed further herein.
[0027] Examples of chemical substances that have been found to
perform well in the instant invention are alginate-based print
pastes, xanthan-based print pastes, synthetic-thickener-based print
pastes, a wide variety of fluorochemicals, and combinations
thereof. The viscosity and rheology of the chemical substance will
be selected to optimize wetting inhibition and to achieve the
intended design appearance in the finished fabric. As will be
readily appreciated by those of ordinary skill in the art, the
precise chemical substance formulation used will be selected to
accommodate the application method used, screen or mesh size,
add-on desired, etc. Such parameters are all contemplated within
the scope of the invention, with the precise formulations used for
each fabric being readily discernable without undue
experimentation. It has been found that in a rotary screen print
process (such as that used herein in the examples), a chemical
substance viscosity of about 8 poise to about 70 poise, and
preferably about 10 poise to about 40 poise (depending on the
thickening agent used) performs well. The chemical substance will
be applied at a pressure designed to achieve even printing with
adequate penetration for the specific chemical substance and
substrate used. For example, pressure ranges of about 3 psi to
about 10 psi have been found to perform well for the chemical
substances described above. In addition, the pressure at which the
chemical substance is applied will be selected to optimize
penetration of the substance into the particular fabric to the
extent necessary to achieve the desired design and to achieve
evenly printed goods. Likewise, the rheology of the chemical
substance desirably provides good flow and quick stop
characteristics.
[0028] In some forms of the invention, the chemical substance will
also include a dye. In this way, the portions of the fabric on
which the chemical substance is applied will be printed a first
color, while surrounding regions of the base fabric not having the
chemical substance thereon will be dyed a different color during
the dye process. As will be readily appreciated by those of
ordinary skill in the art, the chemical substances may be applied
more than once using different patterns and different chemical
substances. Therefore, the process can be used to form an
essentially infinite number of fabric patterns and appearances. For
example, the chemical substance can be applied to the fabric such
that it mimics the pattern of yarns in a fabric construction, such
as through a pattern of stripes printed in the direction of warp or
filling yarns on a woven fabric to simulate a yarn-dyed striped
fabric. Furthermore, the chemical substance may include other types
of chemicals such as optical brighteners, different dye classes,
copolymers, any type of chemistry that provides an additional
benefit without interfering with the properties necessary for this
invention to operate, and the like.
[0029] In most instances, it will be desirable to dry the chemistry
prior to the subsequent dyeing step. This can be done by way of any
method conventionally used to dry fabrics, such as by passing the
fabric through an oven. This helps secure the chemical substance to
the underlying fabric portions. The temperature and method used
will be selected to optimize performance of the chemical substance
and substrate used.
[0030] The fabric is then dyed in a conventional continuous or
semi-continuous manner such as by a thermosol dye process. However,
other types of dye operations such as pad/steam processes,
thermosol/pad/steam processes, cold pad batch, jig dye processes,
and the like can also be used within the scope of the instant
invention with varying effects. As will be appreciated by those of
ordinary skill in the art, the dyeing process used will be selected
depending on the type of fabric being processed as well as the type
of dye to be used. Similarly, the type and amount of chemical
substance used will be selected to optimize the appearance of the
dyed fabric. In other words, the type of dye process and chemical
substance will be coordinated so that the mechanical inhibition of
wetting provided by the chemical substance survives the specific
dye process used to the extent necessary to achieve the desired
patterned effect from dyeing. Similarly, the dye method utilized
will be selected to achieve the desired results for the particular
fabric being produced. For example, in many cases it will be
desirable to utilize high efficiency continuous and semi-continuous
dye processes; in such cases the yarns forming the fabric will
often be ring dyed.
[0031] When a thermosol/pad-steam process is used, the process
generally goes as follows: The fabric having the chemical substance
applied to it is routed through the dye pad, where the fabric is
saturated with dye, with the exception of those regions where the
chemical substance prevents the fabric from fully wetting. The
fabric is desirably pre-dried, and then heated to a temperature
sufficient to sublime the dyestuff into the substrate such that the
dyes sublime and penetrate into the fibers. The fabric is then
desirably steamed, scoured and washed in a conventional manner to
remove any excess chemistry and dye that may remain. The fabric is
cooled, and any finish chemistries that are desired can be applied.
For example, chemistries designed to promote soil release and
wicking, or reduce static and/or pilling, etc. can be provided
according to the needs of the fabric. In addition, any desired face
finishing operations can also be performed as needed. The fabric is
then desirably dried and packaged for distribution.
[0032] The dye utilized can also be selected to achieve the type of
appearance desired. For example, where the textile fabric is a
polyester/cotton blended fabric and it is desired to have a
solid-colored base fabric, a combination of disperse and vat dyes
may be utilized to achieve dyeing of both the polyester and cotton
constituents. In this instance, a thermosol/pad/steam process could
be utilized with the additional steps of steaming, scouring and
washing added to the process described above after the thermosol
oven. Alternatively, the dye bath may include dyes that are
designed to dye only one of the fiber constituents, so as to
achieve a heather type appearance of the base fabric. For example,
a polyester/cotton blended fabric could be exposed to disperse dyes
only, which will dye the polyester component while leaving the
cotton component substantially undyed, to thereby achieve a unique
appearance of the base fabric.
[0033] As noted above, the chemical substance is selected to at
least temporarily inhibit wetting of portions of the fabric, so
that a pattern can be produced on the fabric during a continuous or
semi-continuous dye process. The nature of the chemical substance
results in it not requiring a subsequent removal process. In other
words, the action of the dye process, drying, finishing and/or
scouring operations serve to remove any of the chemistry that would
interfere with the end performance of the fabric. For example,
where the chemical substance includes or consists essentially of a
print paste, the subsequent processing steps generally serve to
remove the print paste from the fabric. By the same token, where
the chemical substance comprises or consists essentially of a
fluorocarbon, it may be desirable for some of the fluorocarbon
chemistry to remain on the fabric in order that long term water
repellency in the printed areas is achieved. In any event, the
chemical substance and dye process used can be coordinated so that
the amount of the chemical substance that remains on the fabric
following processing is controlled at desired levels.
[0034] As illustrated by a comparison of the yarn-dyed fabric in
FIG. 2 and the fabric of the invention illustrated in FIG. 3, the
fabrics produced according to the process of the invention have
superior appearance, in many cases closely approximating the
appearance of yarn-dyed fabrics, while avoiding the problems with
that production process. For example, the differential shrinkage
problems commonly associated with yarn-dyed fabrics can be avoided
because the base fabric can be produced in a uniform construction
if so desired. The fabrics of the invention also have good
performance characteristics such as good uniform physical strength,
appearance, colorfastness, washfastness, design durability, and a
consistent feel or hand across patterned and unpatterned areas.
EXAMPLES
[0035] Three samples of commercially-available yarn-dyed shirting
fabrics were obtained and are described below as Samples A, B and
C.
[0036] Sample A was a bright blue and dark grey striped
conventional poplin fabric having a weight of 4.3 oz/sq yd. The
finished construction had 102 ends per inch and 57 picks per inch.
Both warp and filling yarns consisted of a 65% polyester and 35%
cotton blend. It is believed by the inventors that the fabric had
been treated with conventional soil release and permanent press
chemistries, and lightly sanded.
[0037] Sample B was a conventional poplin fabric having small blue
stripes on a white background. The fabric had a weight of 4.3 oz/
sq yd and a finished construction having 77 ends per inch and 59
picks per inch. Both warp and filling yarns consisted of a 65%
polyester and 35% cotton blend. It is believed by the inventors
that the fabric had been treated with conventional soil release and
permanent press chemistries, and lightly sanded.
[0038] Sample C was a conventional poplin fabric having
multi-colored stripes. The fabric had a weight of 4.3 oz/ sq yd and
a finished construction of 104 ends per inch and 60 picks per inch.
Both warp and filling yarns consisted of a 65% polyester and 35%
cotton blend. It is believed by the inventors that the fabric had
been treated with conventional soil release and permanent press
chemistries, and lightly sanded.
[0039] Sample D was a 4.3 oz 65/35 polyester/cotton poplin fabric.
The fabric was dyed in a thermosol at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds
with the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30,
0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix,
1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l
Cl Vat Black 22. (In other words, the fabric was dyed the same base
shade as Sample E below.) The fabric was then finished in a
conventional manner, by padding on conventional type finish
chemistry to provide moisture transport, soil release and permanent
press characteristics, running it through a tenter in a
conventional manner to cross-link the resin and set the fabric
width. The fabric was then mechanically abraded in the manner
described in commonly-assigned U.S. Pat. No. 5,752,300 to Dischler
and treated with high pressure air (to form microfissures in the
resin chemistry) in the manner described in commonly-assigned U.S.
Pat. No. 5,822,835 to Dischler. The fabric had a finished
construction of 102 ends per inch and 47 picks per inch.
[0040] Sample E was woven in the same construction as Sample D,
prepared, and then a twin stripe pattern from a 165 mesh screen of
the following chemical substance was applied to the fabric: 60 g/kg
fluorochemical (APG-85 from Advanced Polymer, Inc.), 11 g/kg of a
synthetic back thickener, 929 g/kg alginate stock print paste which
included 32.5 g/kg of a low viscosity alginate thickener, a
sequestering agent, a defoamer, an antimicrobial, and water. (As
will be readily appreciated by those of ordinary skill in the art,
the sequestering agent, defoamer and antimicrobial were provided in
minor quantities to facilitate the performance of the printing
equipment.) The chemical substance also included 1.35 g/kg disperse
red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet
57 dye. The mix had a viscosity of 38 poise, and was applied using
a 40mm metal blade at a pressure of about 11 psi. The chemical
substance was dried at 320cF. The fabric was then dyed in a
thermosol at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye
mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse
Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow
Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The
fabric was then finished in the manner described with respect to
Sample D. The finished fabric had a weight of 4.36 oz /sq yd, with
101 ends per inch and 48 picks per inch.
[0041] Sample F was woven in the same construction as Sample D,
prepared, and then a wide stripe pattern of the following chemical
substance was applied to the fabric: 60 g/kg fluorochemical (APG-85
from Advanced Polymer, Inc. of Carlstadt, N.J.), 11 g/kg of a
synthetic back thickener, 929 g/kg alginate stock print paste
(which included 32.5 g/kg of a low viscosity alginate thickener, a
sequestering agent, a defoamer, an antimicrobial, and water). The
chemical substance also included 1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41
g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The mix
had a viscosity of 38 poise, and was applied using a 40mm metal
blade at a pressure of about 11 psi. The chemical substance was
dried at 370.degree. F. The fabric was then dyed in a thermosol at
425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469
g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700
g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l
Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The fabric was then
finished in the manner described above with respect to Sample D.
The finished fabric had a weight of 4.41 oz/ sq yd and a
construction of 101 ends and 48 picks per inch.
[0042] Sample G was woven in the same manner as Sample D, prepared,
and then a wide stripe pattern of the following chemical substance
was applied to the fabric: 60 g/kg fluorochemical (APG-85 from
Advanced Polymer, Inc. of Carlstadt, N.J.), 11 g/kg synthetic back
thickener, 929 g/kg alginate stock print paste (which included a
32.5 g/kg of a low viscosity alginate thickener, a sequestering
agent, a defoamer, an antimicrobial, and water.) The chemical
substance also included 1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg
disperse blue 60, and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The mix had
a viscosity of 38 poise, and was applied using a 40 mm metal blade
at a pressure of about 11 psi. The chemical substance was dried at
350.degree. F. The fabric was then dyed in a thermosol at
425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469
g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700
g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l
Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The fabric was then
finished in the manner described above with respect to Sample D.
The finished fabric had a weight of 4.36 oz/ sq yd, with 101 ends
and 48 picks per inch.
[0043] Sample H was woven in the same manner as Sample D, prepared,
and then a twin stripe pattern of the following chemical substance
was applied to the fabric: 60 g/kg fluorochemical (APG-85 from
Advanced Polymer, Inc.), 11 g/kg of a synthetic back thickener, 929
g/kg alginate stock print paste (which included 32.5 g/kg of a low
viscosity alginate thickener, a sequestering agent, a defoamer, an
antimicrobial, and water). The chemical substance also included
1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2
g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The mix had a viscosity of 38 poise,
and was applied using a 40mm metal blade at a pressure of about 11
psi. The chemical substance was dried at 350.degree. F. The fabric
was then dyed in a thermosol at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with
the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729
g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986
g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl
Vat Black 22. The fabric was then finished in the manner described
above with respect to Sample D. The finished fabric had a weight of
4.31 oz/ sq yd and a construction of 101 ends and 48 picks per
inch.
[0044] Sample I was woven in the manner of Sample D, prepared, and
then a wide stripe pattern of the following chemical substance was
applied to the fabric: 60 g/kg fluorochemical (APG-85 from Advanced
Polymer, Inc.), 11 g/kg of a synthetic back thickener, 929 g/kg
alginate stock print paste (which included 32.5 g/kg of a low
viscosity alginate thickener, a sequestering agent, a defoamer, an
antimicrobial, and water). The chemical substance also included
1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2
g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The mix had a viscosity of 38 poise,
and was applied using a 40mm metal blade at a pressure of about 11
psi. The chemical substance was dried at 320.degree. F. The fabric
was dyed in a thermosol at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the
following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l
Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l
Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat
Black 22. The fabric was then finished in the manner described
above with respect to Sample D. The finished fabric had a weight of
4.35 oz/ sq yd and a construction of 102 ends and 48 picks per
inch.
[0045] Sample J was woven in the manner of Sample D, prepared, and
then a twin stripe pattern of the following chemical substance was
applied to the fabric: 60 g/kg fluorochemical (APG-85 from Advanced
Polymer, Inc.), 11 g/kg synthetic back thickener, 929 g/kg alginate
stock print paste (which included 32.5 g/kg of a low viscosity
alginate thickener, a sequestering agent, a defoamer, an
antimicrobial, and water). The chemical substance also included
1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2
g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The mix had a viscosity of 38 poise,
and was applied using a 40mm metal blade at a pressure of about 11
psi. The chemical substance was dried at 370.degree. F. The fabric
was then dyed in a thermosol at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with
the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729
g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986
g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl
Vat Black 22. The fabric was then finished in the manner described
above in Sample D. The finished fabric had a weight of 4.34 oz/sq
yd and a construction of 102 ends by 48 picks per inch.
[0046] Sample K was woven in the manner of Sample D, then a twin
stripe pattern of the following chemical substance was applied to
the fabric: 60 g/kg fluorochemical (APG-85 from Advanced Polymer,
Inc), 11 g/kg synthetic back thickener, 929 g/kg alginate stock
print paste (which included 32.5 g/kg of a low viscosity alginate
thickener, a sequestering agent, a defoamer, an antimicrobial, and
water). The chemical substance also included 1.35 g/kg disperse red
mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet 57
dye. The mix had a viscosity of 38 poise, and was applied using a
40 mm metal blade at a pressure of about 11 psi. The chemical
substance was dried at 385.degree. F. The fabric was then dyed in a
thermosol at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye
mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse
Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow
Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The
fabric was then finished in the manner described above in Sample D.
The fabric had a finished weight of 4.4 oz/sq yd and a construction
of 102 ends by 48 picks per inch.
[0047] Sample L was woven in the manner of Sample D, then a wide
stripe pattern of the following chemical substance was applied to
the fabric: 60 g/kg fluorochemical (APG-85 from Advanced Polymer,
Inc.), 11 g/kg synthetic back thickener, 929 g/kg alginate stock
print paste (which included 32.5 g/kg of a low viscosity alginate
thickener, a sequestering agent, a defoamer, an antimicrobial, and
water). The chemical substance also included 1.35 g/kg disperse red
mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet 57
dye. The mix had a viscosity of 38 poise, and was applied using a
40 mm metal blade at a pressure of about 11 psi. The chemical
substance was dried at 385.degree. F. The fabric was then dyed in a
thermosol at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye
mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse
Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow
Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The
fabric was then finished in the manner described above in Sample D.
The finished fabric had a weight of 4.42 oz/sq yd and a
construction of 101 ends by 48 picks per inch.
[0048] Sample M was woven in the manner of Sample D, then a mesh
pattern of the following chemical substance was applied to the
fabric: 60 g/kg fluorochemical (APG-85 from Advanced Polymer,
Inc.), 11 g/kg of a synthetic back thickener, 929 g/kg alginate
stock print paste (which included 32.5 g/kg of a low viscosity
alginate thickener, a sequestering agent, a defoamer, an
antimicrobial, and water). The chemical substance also included
1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2
g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The mix had a viscosity of 38 poise,
and was applied using a 40 mm metal blade at a pressure of about 11
psi. The chemical substance was dried at 385.degree. F. The fabric
was then dyed in a thermosol at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with
the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729
g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986
g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl
Vat Black 22. The fabric was then finished in the manner described
above in Sample D. The finished fabric had a weight of 4.42 oz/sq
yd and a construction of 101 ends by 48 picks per inch.
[0049] Sample N was woven in the manner of Sample D, then a mesh
pattern of the following chemical substance was applied to the
fabric: 60 g/kg fluorochemical (APG-85 from Advanced Polymer,
Inc.), 11 g/kg of a synthetic back thickener, 929 g/kg alginate
stock print paste (which included 32.5 g/kg of a low viscosity
alginate thickener, a sequestering agent, a defoamer, an
antimicrobial, and water). The chemical substance also included
1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2
g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The mix had a viscosity of 38 poise,
and was applied using a 40 mm metal blade at a pressure of about 11
psi. The chemical substance was dried at 385.degree. F. The fabric
was then dyed in a thermosol at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with
the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729
g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986
g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl
Vat Black 22. The fabric was then finished in the manner described
above in Sample D. The finished fabric had a weight of 4.33 oz/sq
yd and a construction of 102 ends by 48 picks per inch.
[0050] Test Methods
[0051] For purposes of these tests, the term "industrial washes" is
intended to describe the wash process described below.
[0052] Industrial Wash Test
[0053] Procedure
[0054] 1. Weigh samples to make a 15.+-.1) pound load.
[0055] Note: Use 100% cotton white dummies if necessary to achieve
the proper load weight.
[0056] 2. Industrial Laundry Process Specifications (Milnor
Washer):
1 Alkalinity (ppm) Process W/L Temp. Time Supplies PH Available
Total BREAK LOW Add Steam 15 min 16.5(.+-.1) oz 11.5-12.5 2826 3964
to 165 Orthosil or 300(.+-.10) ml 2.8(.+-.0.2) oz IFL # 15 or
50(.+-.2) ml CARRYOVER LOW 140-155 5 min. None 11.0-12.0 1880 2459
RINSE HIGH 120-130 2 min. None 10.2-10.8 148 299 RINSE HIGH 110-120
2 min. None 10.2-10.8 99 205 RINSE HIGH 100-110 2 min. None
9.0-10.0 50 173 RINSE HIGH 90-100 2 min. None 9.0-10.0 12 46 SOUR
LOW 90-100 5 min. .25(.+-.0.05) 6.5-7.0 -- -- oz. Sour or
7(.+-.0.5) milliliters
[0057] 3. Start the cycle with the signal switch in the down
position.
[0058] 4. W/L refers to water level. LOW =12 gallons and HIGH =24
gallons.
[0059] 5. Take 4 (.+-.0.25) pounds out of the 15 (.+-.1) pound load
and place in the Sears Kenmore Home Dryer. (Insure all of the
samples are placed in the dryer, if you have more than 4.25 pounds
of samples, split them into two loads with an even number of
samples in each. The balance of each load should be made up of
dummy fabric.)
[0060] 6. Set the dryer on the Cotton Sturdy setting for 30
minutes. Insure the samples are completely dry prior to removing
them from the dryer.
[0061] 7. Repeat the above wash and dry steps for the specified
number of cycles.
[0062] Note: Orthosil=Orthobrite
[0063] Tensile Strength: The tensile strength of each of the fabric
samples was tested in each of the warp and fill directions
according to ASTM D-5034-95. A number of the samples were also
tested after 10, 25, 50 and 100 Industrial Washes.
[0064] Tear Strenqth: The tear strength of each of the fabric
samples was tested in each of the warp and fill directions using an
Elmendorf Tear Test according to ASTM D1424-96. A number of the
samples were also tested after 10, 25, 50 and 100 industrial
washes.
[0065] Seam Slippage: Seam slippage was tested in both the warp and
fill directions according to the ASTM D-434-42 Test Method.
[0066] Flex: Fabric flexion was tested in both the warp and fill
directions according to ASTM D3885-99.
[0067] Appearance: Fabrics were washed according to the
above-described wash methods, and rated according to AATCC Test
Method 124-1992.
[0068] Pilling: Fabric pilling was tested according to ASTM
D-3512-99A. For the yarn dyed products, it was tested as received
and after 10, 25 and 50 industrial washes. For the fabrics of the
invention, pilling was tested as received.
[0069] Color Data: Raw color data was measured using a 10 degree
spherical spectrophotometer, with a D65, specular excluded light
source with a UV filter set at 0%. The untreated regions were as
the standard and the treated regions were read as the sample. The
DE, DL, Da and Db were calculated using the following formulae:
[0070] DL=L.sub.1-L.sub.2, with L.sub.1 being the untreated and
L.sub.2 being the treated.
[0071] Da=A.sub.1-A.sub.2, with A.sub.1 being the untreated and
A.sub.2 being the treated.
[0072] Db=B.sub.1-B.sub.2, with B.sub.1 being the untreated and
B.sub.2 being the treated.
DE={square root}{square root over (DL.sup.2Db.sup.2+Da.sup.2)}
[0073] 1 % Strength = area under reflectance curve of treated area
area under reflectance curve of untreated area
[0074] DE is indicative of the overall color difference between the
two areas, while DL is indicative of the difference in depth of
shade. For example, a DL of zero would indicate there was no
difference in the depth of shade between the two areas. Da is
indicative of the difference in red/green hues, while Db is
indicative of differences in yellow/blue hues. The Strength rating
illustrates the % difference in the color for the two regions. For
those samples where the resist chemistry did not include a dye, a
low strength number would illustrate a high amount of resist.
[0075] The results of each of the tests are recorded below in
Tables A and B.
2 TABLE A A B C D E F G WIDTH N/A N/A N/A -- 64.63 64.63 64.75
WEIGHT oz/sq yd 4.3 4.3 4.3 4.3 4.36 4.41 4.36 ENDS 102 77 104 102
101 101 101 PICKS 57 59 60 47 48 48 48 TENSILE WASH 119 101 117 112
113 111 112 Tensile W 10 W 115 110 96 -- 129 121 130 Tensile W 25 W
110 103 97 -- 116 115 109 Tensile W 50 W 102 98 71 -- 98 110 101
Tensile W 100 W -- -- -- -- 99 90 94 TENSILE F As Rec'd 59 78 64 77
80 74 71 Tensile F 10 W 60 78 66 -- 82 79 84 Tensile F 25 W 51 73
56 -- 82 77 79 Tensile F 50 W 36 64 51 -- 74 75 74 Tensile F 100 W
-- -- -- -- 77 76 77 TEAR W AR 2246 2588 2096 2035 2300 2200 1900
Tear W 10 W 1958 2166 1833 -- 2000 1700 1725 Tear W 25 W 1635 1801
1440 -- 1750 1650 1575 Tear W 50 W 1267 1478 1136 -- 1750 1800 1700
Tear W 100 W -- -- -- -- 1650 1475 1400 TEAR F AR 1401 1715 1264
2100 1950 2100 2250 Tear F 10 W 1305 1446 1126 -- 1650 1700 1725
Tear F 25 W 931 1267 838 -- 1600 1650 1650 Tear F 50 W 688 976 627
-- 1850 2100 1900 Tear F 100 W -- -- -- -- 1500 1650 1550 SS WARP
40 40 40 37 33 34 35 SS FILL 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 FLEX WARP 2000
2000 2000 2000 2000 2000 2000 FLEX FILL 2000 2000 2000 2000 2000
2000 2000 APPEARANCE 3 3 3 3.6 3.5 3.5 3.5 PILL AR 4 4.5 4 -- 4 4 4
PILL 10 w 4 4.5 4 3.5 -- -- -- PILL 25 w 4.5 4.5 4.5 -- -- -- --
PILL 50 w 4.5 4.5 4.5 -- -- -- --
[0076]
3 TABLE B H I J K L M N WIDTH 64.63 64.75 64.88 64.63 64.75 64.63
64.5 WEIGHT 4.31 4.35 4.34 4.4 4.42 4.42 4.33 ENDS 101 102 102 102
101 101 102 PICKS 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 TENSILE W 109 114 119 108
104 112 101 Tensile W 10 W 124 119 115 110 109 123 105 Tensile W 25
W 113 108 114 113 118 107 105 Tensile W 50 W 107 105 97 95 109 105
107 Tensile W 100 W 99 84 91 73 95 94 95 TENSILE F AR 77 74 74 69
76 73 70 Tensile F 10 W 82 82 82 76 80 82 77 Tensile F 25 W 85 78
80 74 84 82 76 Tensile F 50 W 80 73 72 60 65 82 77 Tensile F 100 W
78 77 77 68 70 74 74 TEAR W AR 1975 1975 2000 1850 2100 1900 2050
Tear W 10 W 1700 1750 1500 1550 1700 1750 1750 Tear W 25 W 1600
1750 1750 1600 1675 1650 1700 Tear W 50 W 1800 1800 1900 1000 1750
1750 1800 Tear W 100 W 1400 1450 1500 1250 1400 1500 1450 TEAR F AR
2100 2200 2150 1925 2200 2100 2300 Tear F 10 W 1700 1575 1450 1750
1600 1675 1750 Tear F 25 W 1800 1800 1850 1625 1750 1750 1600 Tear
F 50 W 2000 2025 1975 1500 1950 1400 1950 Tear F 100 W 1750 1550
1600 1500 1550 1650 1575 SS WARP 31 33 30 36 36 34 34 SS FILL 40 40
40 40 40 40 40 FLEX WARP 2000 2000 2000 2000 2000 2000 2000 FLEX
FILL 2000 2000 2000 2000 2000 2000 2000 APPEARANCE 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5
3.5 3.5 3.5 PILLAR 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 PILL 10 w -- -- -- -- -- -- --
PILL 25 w -- -- -- -- -- -- -- PILL 50 w -- -- -- -- -- -- --
[0077] Samples AA through AP were all done in the lab. A lab
thermosol pad steam was used. None of the fabrics were
finished.
[0078] Sample AA was a 4.3 oz 65/35 polyester/cotton poplin fabric.
The fabric was printed on a lab scale strike table in a wide bar
pattern with an alginate based print paste containing 11.5 g/kg of
a synthetic back thickener, and a 988.5 g/kg of a stock print paste
containing an anginate thickener, a sequestering agent, a defoamer,
an anti-microbial agent, and water. (As in the above samples, the
sequestering agent, defoamer and anti-microbial agent were included
in minor quantities to facilitate the performance of the printing.)
The paste had a viscosity of 25 poise. The chemical substance was
dried on a laboratory infrared conveyor dryer of the variety
marketed by Glenro Inc. of Paterson, N.J. set at 65% output with a
conveyor speed of 1.96 m/min. and a temperature between 220 and
3300. The fabric was then dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at
425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye mixture: 5.10
g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 11.97 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, and 5.65
g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix. The fabric was then dried in the
infrared drying unit at a temperature not exceeding 300.degree.
F.
[0079] Sample AB was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA and which also included 6% of
the fluorochemical APG 5264 from Advanced Polymer, Inc. Carlstadt,
N.J. The chemical substance was dried on a laboratory infrared
conveyor dryer as described in Sample AA. The fabric was then dyed
in lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds
with the following dye mixture: 5.10 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30,
11.97 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, and 5.65 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine
Mix. The fabric was then dried in the infrared drying unit at a
temperature not exceeding 300.degree. F.
[0080] Sample AC was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA and which also included 6% of
the fluorochemical APG 85 from Advanced Polymer, Inc. The chemical
substance was dried in the manner described in Sample AA. The
fabric was then dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at
425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye mixture: 5.10
g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 11.97 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, and 5.65
g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix. The fabric was then dried in the
infrared drying unit at a temperature not exceeding 300.degree.
F.
[0081] Sample AD was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA and which also included 10%
of Solopol ZB30, a sugar co-polymer supplied by Stockhausen, Inc.
of Greensboro, N.C. The chemical substance was dried in the manner
described above in Sample AA. The fabric was then dyed in a lab
thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the
following dye mixture: 5.10 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 11.97 g/l Cl
Disperse Blue 165, and 5.65 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix. The fabric
was then dried in the infrared drying unit at a temperature not
exceeding 300.degree. F.
[0082] Sample AE was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA. The chemical substance was
dried in the manner described above in Sample AA. The fabric was
then dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for
50 seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse
Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse
Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10,
and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The fabric was then dried in the
infrared drying unit at a temperature not exceeding 300.degree.
F.
[0083] Sample AF was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA. The paste also included 6%
of the fluorochemical APG 5264 from Advanced Polymer, Inc. The
chemical substance was dried in the manner described above in
Sample AA. The fabric was then dyed in lab thermosol/pad/steam unit
at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye mixture:
2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165,
0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix,
1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The fabric
was then dried in the infrared drying unit at a temperature not
exceeding 300.degree. F.
[0084] Sample AG was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA. The paste also included 6%
of the fluorochemical APG 85 from Advanced Polymer, Inc. The
chemical substance was dried in the manner described above in
Sample AA. The fabric was then dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam
unit at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye
mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse
Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow
Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The
fabric was then dried in the infrared drying unit at a temperature
not exceeding 300.degree. F.
[0085] Sample AH was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA. The paste also included 10%
of Solopol ZB30, a sugar co-polymer supplied by Stockhausen, Inc.
of Greensboro, N.C. The chemical substance was dried in the manner
described in Sample AA. The fabric was then dyed in a lab
thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the
following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l
Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l
Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g0l Cl Vat
Black 22. The fabric was then dried in the infrared drying unit at
a temperature not exceeding 300.degree. F.
[0086] Sample Al was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA. The paste also included 10%
of Solopol ZB30, a sugar co-polymer supplied by Stockhausen, Inc.
of Greensboro, N.C. and 1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg
disperse blue 60, and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The chemical
substance was dried in the manner described in Sample AA. The
fabric was then dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at
425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469
g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, and
0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix. The fabric was then dried in the
infrared drying unit at a temperature not exceeding 300.degree.
F.
[0087] Sample AJ was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA. The print paste also
included 1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60,
and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The chemical substance was
dried in the manner described in Sample AA. The fabric was then
dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit I at 425.degree. F. for 50
seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse
Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, and 0.700 g/l Cl
Disperse Rubine Mix. The fabric was then dried in the infrared
drying unit at a temperature not exceeding 300.degree. F.
[0088] Sample AK was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA. The print paste included
1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2
g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The paste also included 6% of the
fluorochemical APG 5264 from Advanced Polymer Inc. The chemical
substance was dried on a laboratory infrared conveyor dryer set at
65% output with a conveyor speed of 1.96 m/min. The fabric was then
dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for 50
seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse
Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, and 0.700 g/l Cl
Disperse Rubine Mix. The fabric was then dried in an infrared
drying unit at a temperature not exceeding 300.degree. F.
[0089] Sample AL was the same base fabric as Sample M. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA and also included 1.35 g/kg
disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2 g/kg disperse
violet 57 dye. The paste also included 6% of the fluorochemical APG
85. The chemical substance was dried in the manner described in
Sample AA. The fabric was then dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam
unit at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye
mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse
Blue 165, and 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix. The fabric was then
dried in the manner described in Sample AA.
[0090] Sample AM was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA. The print paste also
included 1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60,
and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The paste also included 10% of
Solopol ZB30, a sugar co-polymer supplied by Stockhausen, Inc. The
chemical substance was dried in the manner described in Sample AA.
The fabric was then dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at
425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469
g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700
g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l
Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The fabric was then
dried in the manner described in Sample AA.
[0091] Sample AN was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA. The chemical substance also
included 1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60,
and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The chemical substance was
dried in the manner described in Sample AA. The fabric was then
dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for 50
seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse
Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse
Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10,
and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The fabric was then dried as
described in Sample AA.
[0092] Sample AO was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA. The paste also included 6%
of the fluorochemical APG 5264. The chemical substance also
included 1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60,
and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The chemical substance was
dried in the manner described in Sample AA. The fabric was then
dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for 50
seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse
Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse
Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10,
and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The fabric was then dried in the
manner described in Sample AA.
[0093] Sample AP was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with an alginate based print
paste as described above in Sample AA. The paste also included 6%
of the fluorochemical APG 85. The chemical substance also included
1.35 g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2
g/kg disperse violet 57 dye. The chemical substance was dried in
the manner described in Sample AA. The fabric was then dyed in a
lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with
the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729
g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986
g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl
Vat Black 22. The fabric was then dried in the manner described in
Sample AA.
[0094] Sample AQ was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with a synthetic based print
paste containing 17.4 kg water, 12.114 g/kg concentrated synthetic
paste (sold under the tradename WTA by Abco Industries of Roebuck,
S.C.) and minor quantities of a sequestering agent, a defoamer and
an antimicrobial agent to facilitate printing performance. The
paste was stiff and therefore was not tested for viscosity. The
paste was dried using a laboratory infrared conveyor dryer of the
variety marketed by Glenro Inc. of Paterson, N.J. set at 65% output
with a conveyor speed of 1.96 m/min. and a temperature between 220
and 330.degree. F. The fabric was then dyed in a lab
thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the
following dye mixture: 5.10 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30,11.97 g/l Cl
Disperse Blue 165, and 5.65 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix. The fabric
was then dried in the infrared drying unit at a temperature not
exceeding 300.degree. F.
[0095] Sample AR was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with a synthetic based print
paste of the variety described in Sample AQ. However, the print
paste also included 6% Hipochem FCX fluorocarbon extender,
distributed by High Point Chemical Co. of High Point, N.C. The
fabric was dried in the manner described in Sample AQ. The fabric
was then dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F.
for 50 seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl
Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, and 0.700 g/l
Cl Disperse Rubine Mix. The fabric was then dried in the infrared
drying unit at a temperature not exceeding 300.degree. F.
[0096] Sample AS was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with a synthetic based print
paste of the variety described in Sample AQ. The fabric was then
dried in the manner described in Sample AQ. The fabric was then
dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for 50
seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse
Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse
Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10,
and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The fabric was then dried in the
manner described in Sample AQ.
[0097] Sample AT was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with a synthetic based print
paste of the variety described in Sample AQ. The paste also
included 6% Hipochem FCX fluorocarbon extender. The fabric was then
dried in the manner described in Sample AQ. The fabric was then
dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for 50
seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse
Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse
Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10,
and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The fabric was then dried in the
manner described in Sample AQ.
[0098] Sample AU was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with a synthetic print paste of
the variety described in Sample AQ. The paste also included 1.35
g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2 g/kg
disperse violet 57 dye. The fabric was dried in the manner
described in Sample AQ, and then dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam
unit at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye
mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse
Blue 165, and 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix. The fabric was then
dried in the infrared drying unit at a temperature not exceeding
300.degree. F.
[0099] Sample AV was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with a synthetic print paste of
the variety described in Sample AQ, with the paste also containing
6% Hipochem FCX fluorocarbon extender along with 1.35 g/kg disperse
red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet
57 dye. The fabric was dried in the manner described in Sample AQ,
then dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for
50 seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse
Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, and 0.700 g/l Cl
Disperse Rubine Mix. The fabric was then dried in the infrared
drying unit at a temperature not exceeding 300.degree. F.
[0100] Sample AW was the same base fabric as Sample M. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with a synthetic print paste of
the variety described in Sample AQ. The paste also included 1.35
g/kg disperse red mix, 0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2 g/kg
disperse violet 57 dye. The fabric was dried in the manner
described in Sample AQ, then dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit
at 425.degree. F. for 50 seconds with the following dye mixture:
2.469 g/l Cl Disperse Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165,
0.700 g/l Cl Disperse Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix,
1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10, and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The fabric
was then dried in the manner described in Sample AQ.
[0101] Sample AX was the same base fabric as Sample AA. The fabric
was printed in a wide bar pattern with a synthetic print paste of
the variety described in Sample AQ. The paste also included 6%
Hipochem FCX fluorocarbon extender and 1.35 g/kg disperse red mix,
0.41 g/kg disperse blue 60, and 8.2 g/kg disperse violet 57 dye.
The fabric was dried in the manner described in Sample AQ, then
dyed in a lab thermosol/pad/steam unit at 425.degree. F. for 50
seconds with the following dye mixture: 2.469 g/l Cl Disperse
Orange 30, 0.729 g/l Cl Disperse Blue 165, 0.700 g/l Cl Disperse
Rubine Mix, 1.986 g/l Cl Vat Yellow Mix, 1.811 g/l Cl Vat Red 10,
and 3.394 g/l Cl Vat Black 22. The fabric was then dried in the
manner described in Sample AQ.
[0102] The color data was tested using the method described above.
The relative dE, dL, da, db and strength for each sample (for the
portion having the chemical substance relative to the portion of
the fabric not having the chemical substance) were calculated. The
results are listed below in Table C.
4TABLE C Strength dE dL da db (%) AA 13.858 13.764 0.092 -1.609
39.2 AB 15.391 15.359 0.161 -0.977 35.52 AC 17.106 17.093 0.031
-0.654 31.76 AD 16.026 15.969 0.07 -1.345 33.95 AE 16.37 16.246
1.268 1.556 34.86 AF 17.129 16.983 1.824 1.293 33.01 AG 19.682
19.496 1.95 1.869 28.07 AH 18.319 18.182 1.359 1.775 30.67 AI 14.75
10.127 -6.124 -8.804 50.24 AJ 13.937 8.904 -5.865 -8.976 54.23 AK
16.551 8.624 -7.508 -11.966 55.85 AL 16.87 8.054 -7.872 -12.561
58.2 AM 15.814 8.653 -7.604 -10.834 57.03 AN 15.939 7.56 -7.742
-11.703 61.25 AO 18.173 6.821 -8.024 -14.811 64.18 AP 18.591 5.07
-8.062 -15.966 72.28 AQ 5.681 5.622 -0.091 -0.808 67.8 AR 7.701
7.643 0.041 0.91 60.55 AS 8.6 8.652 0.095 0.35 56.6 AT 10.421
10.353 0.17 1.175 51.13 AU 7.414 2.905 -3.902 -5.595 80.85 AV 7.463
2.752 -4.63 -5.16 82.6 AW 12.73 1.144 -6.616 -10.815 92.22 AX
12.698 0.0601 -6.914 -10.633 95.99
[0103] As noted from the examples, both the synthetic and the
alginate print pastes enabled the production of patterned fabrics
using a continuous dye process. However, the alginate was found to
perform better than the particular synthetic print paste used based
upon the specific conditions (viscosity, pressure, screen mesh,
etc) used. However, it was found that each of the pastes tested
provided good patterning while minimizing the strength loss of the
fabric. It is noted that varying degrees of resistance of dyeing
can be achieved using the process of the invention, through the
selection of the type of resist chemistry, application method,
substrate, and dyes used, and the like. Patterns using high to
substantially complete resistance as well as those having lower
levels of resistance (to achieve only subtle color variations) are
all contemplated within the scope of the invention.
[0104] The fabrics produced according to the invention can be used
in any end use where patterned textiles would have utility,
including but not limited to apparel, home furnishings, napery,
industrial products, or the like. As evidenced by the durability of
the products following industrial launderings, the fabrics will
have particular utility in the manufacture of garments used in the
rental laundry markets.
[0105] In the specification there has been set forth a preferred
embodiment of the invention, and although specific terms are
employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense only and
not for purpose of limitation, the scope of the invention being
defined in the claims.
* * * * *