U.S. patent application number 09/984306 was filed with the patent office on 2002-07-04 for film-forming cosmetic composition.
Invention is credited to Collin, Nathalie, De La Poterie, Valerie, Piot, Bertrand.
Application Number | 20020085986 09/984306 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 8855860 |
Filed Date | 2002-07-04 |
United States Patent
Application |
20020085986 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
De La Poterie, Valerie ; et
al. |
July 4, 2002 |
Film-forming cosmetic composition
Abstract
The invention relates to methods for the make-up to and care of
a keratinous material comprising applying to a keratinous material
a composition comprising an aqueous microdispersion of particles of
at least one wax and an aqueous dispersion of particles of at least
one film-forming polymer. The composition makes it possible to
obtain a film which may be resistant to cold water and may be
removed as make-up with hot water. The invention also relates to a
mascara comprising an aqueous microdispersion of particles of at
least one wax and an aqueous dispersion of particles of at least
one film-forming polymer wherein the particles of at least one
film-forming polymer have a mean particle size of at least 10 nm
and further wherein the at least one film-forming polymer is not a
coloring polymer and methods for application of the mascara.
Inventors: |
De La Poterie, Valerie; (Le
Chatelet en Brie, FR) ; Collin, Nathalie; (Sceaux,
FR) ; Piot, Bertrand; (Paris, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
Thomas L. Irving
FINNEGAN, HENDERSON, FARABOW,
GARRETT & DUNNER, L.L.P.
1300 I Street, N.W.
Washington
DC
20005-3315
US
|
Family ID: |
8855860 |
Appl. No.: |
09/984306 |
Filed: |
October 29, 2001 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.11 |
Current CPC
Class: |
B82Y 5/00 20130101; A61K
2800/413 20130101; A61K 8/922 20130101; A61K 8/87 20130101; A61K
8/85 20130101; A61Q 1/10 20130101; A61K 8/044 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/70.11 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/021; A61K
007/06; A61K 007/11 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Oct 27, 2000 |
FR |
00 13876 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A method for forming a film comprising applying to a keratinous
material a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable
medium comprising an aqueous phase: an aqueous microdispersion of
particles of at least one wax, and an aqueous dispersion of
particles of at least one film-forming polymer, wherein the film
formed on the keratinous material has good resistance to cold water
and can be removed with hot water.
2. A method for forming a film comprising applying to a keratinous
fiber, a cosmetic composition, in a physiologically acceptable
medium, comprising at least one film-forming polymer and at least
one wax, wherein the film formed on the keratinous material has
good resistance to cold water and can be removed with hot
water.
3. A method according to claim 1, wherein said particles of at
least one film-forming polymer have a mean particle size ranging
from 10 to 500 nm.
4. A method according to claim 3, wherein said particles of at
least one film-forming polymer have a mean particle size ranging
from 20 to 300 nm.
5. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is chosen from free-radical polymers,
polycondensates polymers and polymers of natural origin.
6. A method according to claim 5, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is chosen from vinyl polymers, polyurethanes,
polyesters and polyamides.
7. A method according to claim 6, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is chosen from polyurethanes.
8. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer has a water uptake of less than or equal to
50%.
9. A method according to claim 8, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer has a water uptake of less than or equal to
40%.
10. A method according to claim 9, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer has a water uptake of less than or equal to
30%.
11. A method according to claim 1 0, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer has a water uptake of less than or equal to
20%.
12. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 60%
by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
13. A method according to claim 12, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 40%
by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
14. A method according to claim 13, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 10% to
30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
15. A method according to claim 1, wherein said particles of at
least one wax have a mean particle size of less than 1 .mu.m.
16. A method according to claim 15, wherein said particles of at
least one wax have a mean particle size of less than 0.5 .mu.m.
17. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one wax
has a melting point ranging from 30.degree. C. to 120.degree.
C.
18. A method according to claim 17, wherein said at least one wax
has a melting point ranging from 45.degree. C. to 120.degree.
C.
19. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one wax is
chosen from polar waxes, silicone waxes, and fluorinated waxes.
20. A method according to claim 19, wherein said polar waxes are
chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, and waxes formed from catalytic
hydrogenation of oils.
21. A method according to claim 20, wherein said hydrocarbon waxes
are chosen from beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese waxes, rice wax,
Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax,
sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax; montan wax, waxy copolymers
and esters thereof.
22. A method according to claim 20, wherein said waxes formed from
catalytic hydrogenation of oils are formed from oils chosen from
animal oils containing linear and branched (C.sub.8-C.sub.12) fatty
chains and vegetable oils containing linear and branched
(C.sub.8-C.sub.12) fatty chains.
23. A method according to claim 20, wherein said waxes formed from
catalytic hydrogenation of oils are chosen from hydrogenated jojoba
oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil,
hydrogenated copra oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil.
24. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one wax
has a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa.
25. A method according to claim 24, wherein said at least one wax
has a hardness ranging from 3 MPa to 15 MPa.
26. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one wax is
present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight
relative to the total weight of said composition.
27. A method according to claim 26, wherein said at least one wax
is present in a dry matter content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight
relative to the total weight of said composition.
28. A method according to claim 27, wherein said at least one wax
is present in a dry matter content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight
relative to the total weight of said composition.
29. A method according to claim 1, wherein said composition further
comprises at least one fatty additive chosen from fatty oily
additives, fatty pasty additives, and fat-soluble active
ingredients.
30. A method according to claim 29, wherein said fat-soluble active
ingredients are chosen from UV-screening agents, fat-soluble
vitamins, and fat-soluble cosmetic active agents.
31. A method according to claim 1, wherein said composition further
comprises at least one surfactant.
32. A method according to claim 31, wherein said at least one
surfactant is chosen from: anionic surfactants chosen from
optionally unsaturated fatty acid salts having 12 to 18 carbon
atoms, alkali metal salts of salts of organic bases with
(C.sub.12-C.sub.18) alkylsulfuric acids, alkali metal salts of
salts of organic bases with (C.sub.12-C.sub.18) alkylsulfonic
acids, alkali metal salts of salts of organic bases with
(C.sub.6-C.sub.18) alkylarylsulfonic acids, and ether sulfates; non
ionic surfactants, chosen from polyalkoxylated surfactants,
polyglycerolated surfactants, esters of fatty acids and polyols,
alkanediols, alkyl ethers of alkanediols; and at least one compound
chosen from alkyl carbamates of triglycerol, oxyethylenated
derivatives of lanolin alcohols, propoxylated derivatives of
lanolin alcohols, and lanolin fatty acids; and cationic
surfactants, chosen from quaternary ammonium derivatives.
33. A method according to claim 31, wherein said at least one
surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by
weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
34. A method according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of said
at least one film-forming polymer to at least one wax ranges from
50:50 to 95:5.
35. A method according to claim 34, wherein the weight ratio of
said at least one film-forming polymer to at least one wax ranges
from 60:40 to 80:20.
36. A method according to claim 1, wherein said composition further
comprises at least one additional water-soluble film-forming
polymer.
37. A method according to claim 36, wherein said at least one
additional water-soluble film-forming polymer is chosen from
water-soluble cellulosic polymers, keratin derivatives, chitins,
chitosan derivatives, cellulose derivatives, acrylic polymers,
acrylic copolymers, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl pyrrolidones,
vinyl copolymers, polyethylene glycols and optionally modified
polymers of natural origin.
38. A method according to claim 1, wherein said composition further
comprises particles of at least one additional wax having a
particle size of at least 1 .mu.m, further wherein said particles
of at least one additional wax is dispersed in said aqueous
phase.
39. A method according to claim 38, wherein said particles of at
least one additional wax have a particle size ranging from 1 .mu.m
to 10 .mu.m.
40. A method according to claim 1, wherein said composition further
comprises at least one agent chosen from trace elements,
demulcents, sequestrants, perfumes, oils, silicones, thickeners,
vitamins, proteins, ceramides, plasticizers, coalescing agents,
cohesion agents, alkalinizing agents, acidifying agents, emollients
and preservatives.
41. A method according to claim 1, wherein said composition further
comprises at least one pulverulent compound chosen from pigments
and pearlescent agents.
42. A method according to claim 1, wherein said composition further
comprises at least one filler.
43. A mascara comprising: an aqueous microdispersion of particles
of at least one wax, and an aqueous dispersion of particles of at
least one film-forming polymer, wherein said particles of at least
one film-forming polymer have a mean particle size of at least 10
nm and further wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is
not a coloring polymer.
44. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said particles of at
least one film-forming polymer have a mean particle size ranging
from 10 to 500 nm.
45. A mascara according to claim 44, wherein said particles of at
least one film-forming polymer have a mean particle size ranging
from 20 to 300 nm.
46. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is chosen from free-radical polymers,
polycondensates polymers and polymers of natural origin.
47. A mascara according to claim 46, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is chosen from vinyl polymers, polyurethanes,
polyesters and polyamides.
48. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is chosen from polyurethanes.
49. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer has a water uptake of less than or equal to
50%.
50. A mascara according to claim 49, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer has a water uptake of less than or equal to
40%.
51. A mascara according to claim 50, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer has a water uptake of less than or equal to
30%.
52. A mascara according to claim 51, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer has a water uptake of less than or equal to
20%.
53. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 60%
by weight relative to the total weight of said mascara.
54. A mascara according to claim 53, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 40%
by weight relative to the total weight of said mascara.
55. A mascara according to claim 54, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 10% to
30% by weight relative to the total weight of said mascara.
56. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said particles of at
least one wax have a mean particle size of less than 1 .mu.m.
57. A mascara according to claim 56, wherein said particles of at
least one wax have a mean particle size of less than 0.5 .mu.m.
58. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said at least one wax
has a melting point ranging from 30.degree. C. to 120.degree.
C.
59. A mascara according to claim 58, wherein said at least one wax
has a melting point ranging from 45.degree. C. to 120.degree.
C.
60. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said at least one wax
is chosen from polar waxes, silicone waxes, and fluorinated
waxes.
61. A mascara according to claim 60, wherein said polar waxes are
chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, and waxes formed from catalytic
hydrogenation of oils.
62. A mascara according to claim 61, wherein said hydrocarbon waxes
are chosen from beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese waxes, rice wax,
Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax,
sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, waxy copolymers
and esters of waxes.
63. A mascara according to claim 61, wherein said waxes formed from
catalytic hydrogenation of oils are formed from oils chosen from
animal oils containing linear and branched (C.sub.8-C.sub.12) fatty
chains and vegetable oils containing linear and branched
(C.sub.8-C.sub.12) fatty chains.
64. A mascara according to claim 61, wherein said waxes formed from
catalytic hydrogenation of oils are chosen from hydrogenated jojoba
oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil,
hydrogenated copra oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil.
65. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said at least one wax
has a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa.
66. A mascara according to claim 65, wherein said at least one wax
has a hardness ranging from 3 MPa to 15 MPa.
67. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said at least one wax
is present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by
weight relative to the total weight of said mascara.
68. A mascara according to claim 67, wherein said at least one wax
is present in a dry matter content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight
relative to the total weight of said mascara.
69. A mascara according to claim 68, wherein said at least one wax
is present in a dry matter content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight
relative to the total weight of said mascara.
70. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said mascara further
comprises at least one fatty additive chosen from fatty oily
additives, fatty pasty additives, and fat-soluble active
ingredients.
71. A mascara according to claim 70, wherein said fat-soluble
active ingredients are chosen from UV-screening agents, fat-soluble
vitamins, and fat-soluble cosmetic active agents.
72. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said mascara further
comprises at least one surfactant.
73. A mascara according to claim 72, wherein said at least one
surfactant is chosen from: anionic surfactants chosen from
optionally unsaturated fatty acid salts having 12 to 18 carbon
atoms, alkali metal salts of salts of organic bases with
(C.sub.12-C.sub.18) alkylsulfuric acids, alkali metal salts of
salts of organic bases with (C.sub.12-C.sub.18) alkylsulfonic
acids, alkali metal salts of salts of organic bases with
(C.sub.6-C.sub.18) alkylarylsulfonic acids, and ether sulfates;
nonionic surfactants, chosen from polyalkoxylated surfactants,
polyglycerolated surfactants, esters of fatty acids and polyols,
alkanediols, alkyl ethers of alkanediols, and at least one compound
chosen from alkyl carbamates of triglycerol, oxyethylenated
derivatives of lanolin alcohols, propoxylated derivatives of
lanolin alcohols, and lanolin fatty acids; and cationic
surfactants, chosen from quaternary ammonium derivatives.
74. A mascara according to claim 72, wherein said at least one
surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by
weight relative to the total weight of said mascara.
75. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein the weight ratio of
said at least one film-forming polymer to at least one wax ranges
from 50:50 to 95:5.
76. A mascara according to claim 75, wherein the weight ratio of
said at least one film-forming polymer to at least one wax ranges
from 60:40 to 80:20.
77. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said mascara further
comprises at least one additional water-soluble film-forming
polymer.
78. A mascara according to claim 77, wherein at least one
additional water-soluble film-forming polymer is chosen from
water-soluble cellulosic polymers, keratin derivatives, chitins,
chitosan derivatives, cellulose derivatives, acrylic polymers,
acrylic copolymers, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl pyrrolidones,
vinyl copolymers, polyethylene glycols and optionally modified
polymers of natural origin.
79. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said mascara further
comprises particles of at least one additional wax having a
particle size of at least 1 .mu.m, wherein said particles of at
least one additional wax is dispersed in said aqueous phase.
80. A mascara according to claim 79, wherein said particles of at
least one additional wax have a particle size ranging from 1 .mu.m
to 10 .mu.m.
81. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said mascara further
comprises at least one agent chosen from trace elements,
demulcents, sequestrants, perfumes, oils, silicones, thickeners,
vitamins, proteins, ceramides, plasticizers, coalescing agents,
cohesion agents, alkalinizing agents, acidifying agents, emollients
and preservatives.
82. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said mascara further
comprises at least one pulverulent compound chosen from pigments
and pearlescent agents.
83. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said mascara further
comprises at least one filler.
84. A mascara according to claim 43, wherein said at least one wax
has a hardness ranging from 3 MPa to 15 MPa.
85. A cosmetic method of using make-up or nontherapeutic care
comprising: applying to a keratinous material a mascara comprising,
in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase:
an aqueous microdispersion of particles of at least one wax, and an
aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one film-forming
polymer, wherein said particles of at least one film-forming
polymer have a mean particle size of at least 10 nm and further
wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is not a coloring
polymer.
86. A cosmetic method according to claim 85, wherein said
keratinous material is an eyelash.
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a method for forming a film
comprising applying to a keratinous fiber a cosmetic composition
comprising at least one film-forming polymer and at least one
wax.
[0002] The present invention also relates to a mascara comprising,
in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous phase:
an aqueous microdispersion of particles of at least one wax, and an
aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one film-forming
polymer.
[0003] The present invention also relates to a method for forming a
film comprising applying to a keratinous fiber a cosmetic
composition, in a physiologically acceptable medium, comprising at
least one film-forming polymer and at least one wax, wherein the
film formed on the keratinous material has good resistance to cold
water and can be removed with hot water.
[0004] In another embodiment, the invention relates to a method of
using make-up or care of keratinous fibers comprising applying to
the keratinous fibers a cosmetic composition, such as for example,
a mascara, comprising at least one film-forming polymer and at
least one wax.
[0005] The keratinous materials used in the method of using make-up
or care in accordance with the invention may be chosen, for
example, from skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair and nails. The
keratinous materials may be, for example, human keratinous
materials. The cosmetic composition applied in the method of using
make-up or care of keratinous materials may be in the form chosen,
for example, from a mascara, an eyeliner, a product for the lips, a
blusher, an eyeshadow, a foundation, a make-up product for the
body, a concealer, a product for the nails, a composition for
protecting against sunlight, a skin coloring composition, and a
skincare product. In one embodiment of the invention, the
composition is a mascara.
[0006] For the purposes of this invention, the expression "mascara"
is understood to mean a composition which may be applied to
eyelashes and may be chosen, for example, from a make-up
composition for eyelashes, a make-up base for eyelashes, a
composition to be applied over a mascara, also called top coat, and
a composition for the cosmetic treatment of eyelashes. In one
embodiment of the invention, the mascara may be applied to human
eyelashes or to false eyelashes.
[0007] Mascara compositions in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion
comprising surfactants are known from document WO-A-95/15741.
However, this make-up film obtained with these compositions may not
show good water resistance and when the film may come into contact
with water, for example when bathing or taking a shower, it may
partially disintegrate by crumbling or by spreading around the eye.
The disintegration of the film may give rise to a substantial
reduction in the intensity of the color of the make-up, thus
obliging the consumer to repeat the application of the mascara.
Spreading of the film may form a very unsightly halo around the
area where make-up has been applied. Tears and perspiration also
cause these same drawbacks.
[0008] To promote the water resistance of the make-up, it is known
practice from U.S. Pat. No. 4,423,031 to use acrylic polymers in
aqueous dispersion. However, the mascara may be difficult to remove
and may require special make-up removers comprising oils or organic
solvents. These make-up removers may be irritating to eyes, for
example, they may cause pricklings (stinging), may leave a film
over the eye, or may leave an uncomfortable fatty residual film on
the skin around the eye (eyelids).
[0009] To avoid the use of these specific make-up removers, it is
possible to use water and soap as described in document
WO-A-96/33690, with a mascara comprising a water-insoluble polymer
and a water-soluble film-forming polymer. However, the use of soap
may cause ocular discomfort due to pricklings (stinging) or by
deposition of a film over the eye. Soap may also solubilize the
make-up film, which can then spread around the eyes to form
unsightly halos and skin stains.
[0010] The use of hot water, that is to say, water having a
temperature of at least 35.degree. C. (temperature measured at
atmospheric pressure), ranging, for example, from 35.degree. C. to
50.degree.0 C., makes it possible to avoid the drawbacks of the
make-up removers known up until now. However, the
cold-water-resistant mascara compositions described previously can
be difficult to remove with hot water.
[0011] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
which may be removed with hot water and may have good cold-water
resistance.
[0012] The inventors have discovered that such a cosmetic
composition may be obtained using an aqueous dispersion of
particles of at least one film-forming polymer and a
microdispersion of at least one wax.
[0013] After applying the cosmetic composition to the keratinous
materials, for example, eyelashes, the make-up obtained exhibits:
at least one of the following properties: good resistance to cold
water (water with a temperature of less than or equal to 30.degree.
C., for example, when bathing), resistance to tears, and resistance
to perspiration. The make-up can be easily removed with hot water,
for example, by rubbing with cotton wool or gauze. The make-up can
peel off easily from the eyelashes and be removed from the
eyelashes in a form chosen, for example, from a non-fragmented
coating layer, fragments and pieces. The make-up thus removed does
not spread on the skin, avoiding the formation of halos around the
eye. Thus, when removing the make-up, the skin is not stained and
remains clean. The make-up may be removed simply with hot water,
for example, with hot water containing no detergent agent such as
soap. For the make-up removal, the hot water used may be chosen,
for example, from tap water, demineralized water and mineral water
heated to a temperature of at least 35.degree. C., such as for
example, ranging from 35.degree. C. to 50.degree. C. There is
already known from document EP-A-847753 a composition capable of
being applied, for example, to the skin, the semimucous membranes
and the mucous membranes, comprising an aqueous dispersion of
particles of film-forming polymers and an aqueous dispersion of
waxes.
[0014] One embodiment of the invention, is a method for forming a
film comprising applying to a keratinous material a composition
comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an
aqueous phase:
[0015] an aqueous microdispersion of particles of at least one wax,
and
[0016] an aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one
film-forming polymer, wherein the film formed on the keratinous
material has good resistance to cold water and can be removed with
hot water.
[0017] One embodiment of the invention is a mascara comprising, in
a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous
phase:
[0018] an aqueous microdispersion of particles of at least one wax,
and
[0019] an aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one
film-forming polymer, wherein said particles of at least one
film-forming polymer have a mean particle size of at least 10 nm
and further wherein said at least one film-forming polymer is not a
coloring polymer.
[0020] Yet another embodiment of the invention is a cosmetic method
of using make-up or nontherapeutic care of a keratinous material
comprising:
[0021] applying to the keratinous material, such as for example,
eyelashes, a mascara comprising, in a physiologically acceptable
medium comprising an aqueous phase:
[0022] an aqueous microdispersion of particles of at least one wax,
and
[0023] an aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one
film-forming polymer,
[0024] wherein said particles of at least one film-forming polymer
have a mean particle size of at least 10 nm and further wherein
said at least one film-forming polymer is not a coloring
polymer.
[0025] Yet another embodiment of the invention is a cosmetic method
for make-up removal from a keratinous material comprising:
[0026] applying to a keratinous material a composition comprising,
in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising an aqueous
phase:
[0027] an aqueous microdispersion of particles of at least one wax,
and
[0028] an aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one
film-forming polymer, and
[0029] rinsing said keratinous material at least one time with hot
water, wherein said hot water is heated to a temperature of at
least 35.degree. C.
[0030] For the purposes of this invention, the expression
"physiologically acceptable" may be understood to include a medium
which is compatible with keratinous materials, for example, a
cosmetic medium.
[0031] The removal of make-up with hot water may be obtained using
an aqueous microdispersion of at least one wax which may make the
film more sensitive to water. That is, the film may be made fragile
during contact with hot water and rubbing of
[0032] The vinyl polymers may result from the polymerization of at
least one monomer chosen from monomers with ethylenic unsaturation
containing at least one acid group, esters of these acid monomers
and amides of these acid monomers.
[0033] As a monomer with ethylenic unsaturation having at least one
acid group, it is possible to use .alpha., .beta.-ethylenic
unsaturated carboxylic acids chosen, for example from acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid and itaconic acid. In
one embodiment of the invention, (Meth)acrylic acid and crotonic
acid may be used, and in another embodiment, (meth)acrylic acid may
be used.
[0034] The esters of acid monomers may be chosen, for example, from
(meth)acrylic acid esters (also called (meth)acrylates), for
example, alkyl (meth)acrylates, wherein the alkyl group is chosen
from linear, branched, and cyclic (C.sub.1-C.sub.30) alkyls, such
as for example, (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl (meth)acrylates, and
further still (C.sub.6-C.sub.10) aryl (meth)acrylates, and
hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, such as, (C.sub.2-C.sub.6)
hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0035] Non-limiting examples of alkyl (meth)acrylates which may be
mentioned are those chosen from methyl methacrylate, ethyl
methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate,
2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate and cyclohexyl
methacrylate.
[0036] Non-limiting examples of hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates which
may be mentioned are those chosen from hydroxyethyl acrylate,
2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and
2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0037] Non-limiting examples of aryl (meth)acrylates which may be
mentioned are those chosen from benzyl acrylate and phenyl
acrylate.
[0038] The (meth)acrylic acid esters may be formed, for example,
from (C.sub.1-C.sub.30) alkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0039] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the
esters may be chosen, for example, from fluorinated and
perfluorinated alkyl groups, that is to say that some or all of the
hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group may be substituted with fluorine
atoms.
[0040] Non-limiting examples of amides of acid monomers which may
be mentioned are those chosen from (meth)acrylamides, for example,
N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, such as, (C.sub.2-C.sub.12) alkyls.
Non-limiting examples of N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, which may be
further mentioned are those chosen from N-ethylacrylamide,
N-t-butylacrylamide, N-t-octylacrylamide and
N-undecylacrylamide.
[0041] The vinyl polymers of the at least one film-forming polymer
may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of
at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers.
For example, these monomers may be polymerized with at least one
acid monomer, esters thereof, and amides thereof, such as those
mentioned above.
[0042] Non-limiting examples of vinyl esters which may be mentioned
are those chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl
pivalate, vinylbenzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
[0043] Styrene monomers which may be mentioned are chosen, for
example, from styrene and .alpha.-methylstyrene.
[0044] The list of monomers given above is not limiting and it is
possible to use any monomer known to a person skilled in the art
entering into the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers
(including the monomers modified by a silicone chain).
[0045] Non-limiting representatives of acrylic film-forming
polymers which may be used according to the invention may be
chosen, for example, from those sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90,
NEOCRYL A-1070, NEOCRYL A-1090, NEOCRYL BT-62, NEOCRYL A-1079, and
NEOCRYL A-523 by the company Avecia-Neoresins, DOW LATEX 432 by the
company Dow Chemical, and DAITOSOL 5000 AD by the company Daito
Kasey Kogyo.
[0046] Non-limiting representatives of at least one film-forming
polymer include at least one polycondensate chosen, for example,
from polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyesters with
at least one fatty chain, polyamides and epoxy ester resins. In one
embodiment of the invention polyurethanes are used.
[0047] In another embodiment of the invention, the at least one
film-forming polymer is chosen from vinyl polymers, polyurethanes,
polyesters and polyamides.
[0048] The polyurethanes may be chosen, for example, from anionic
polyurethanes, cationic polyurethanes, nonionic polyurethanes,
amphoteric polyurethanes, anionic polyurethane-acrylics, cationic
polyurethane-acrylics, nonionic polyurethane-acrylics, amphoteric
polyurethane-acrylics, anionic polyurethane-polyvinyl-pyrrolidones,
cationic polyurethane-polyvinyl-pyrrolidones, nonionic
polyurethane-polyvinyl-pyrrolidones, amphoteric
polyurethane-polyvinyl-py- rrolidones, anionic
polyester-polyurethanes, cationic polyester-polyurethanes, nonionic
polyester-polyurethanes, amphoteric polyester-polyurethanes,
anionic polyether-polyurethanes, cationic polyether-polyurethanes,
nonionic polyether-polyurethanes, amphoteric
polyether-polyurethanes, anionic polyureas, cationic polyureas,
nonionic polyureas, amphoteric polyureas, anionic
polyurea-polyurethanes, cationic polyurea-polyurethanes, nonionic
polyurea-polyurethanes, and amphoteric polyurea-polyurethanes.
[0049] The polyurethanes may be, for example, at least one polymer
chosen from aliphatic polyurethanes, cycloaliphatic polyurethanes,
aromatic polyurethanes, polyurea-urethanes and polyurea copolymers
comprising alone or in mixtures blocks chosen, for example
from:
[0050] at least one block chosen from aliphatic origin,
cycloaliphatic origin, and aromatic origin,
[0051] an optionally branched silicone-containing block, chosen,
for example, from polydimethylsiloxane and
polymethylphenylsiloxane, and
[0052] a block comprising fluorinated groups.
[0053] Additional non-limiting representatives of polyurethanes in
accordance with the invention may also be formed, for example, from
optionally branched polyesters, alkyds comprising active hydrogens
which are modified by reaction with a compound chosen, for example,
from diisocyanate and difunctional organic compounds containing a
group chosen, for example, from dihydro, diamino and hydroxyamino
groups, and further comprising at least one group chosen from a
carboxylic acid group, a carboxylate group, a sulphonic acid group,
a sulphonate group, a neutralizable tertiary amine group and a
quaternary ammonium group.
[0054] Further non-limiting representatives of film-forming
polyurethanes which may be used according to the invention, are
those marketed under the names NEOREZ R-981, and NEOREZ R-974 by
the company Avecia-Neoresins; AVALURE UR-405, AVALURE UR-410,
AVALURE UR-425, AVALURE UR-450, SANCURE 875, SANCURE 861, SANCURE
878, and SANCURE 2060 by the company Goodrich; and IMPRANIL 85 by
the company Bayer.
[0055] The polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by
polycondensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid with polyols,
such as for example, diols.
[0056] The at least one dicarboxylic acid may be chosen, for
example, from aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, alicyclic dicarboxylic
acids and aromatic dicarboxylic acids. There may be mentioned as
examples of such acids those chosen from: oxalic acid, malonic
acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic
acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylgutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic
acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid,
phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic
acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid,
terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic
acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and
2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers
may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic
acid monomers. In one embodiment of the invention, these monomers
may be chosen, for example, from phthalic acid, isophthalic acid,
and terephthalic acid.
[0057] Non-limiting representatives of diols may be chosen, for
example, from aliphatic diols, alicyclic diols, and aromatic diols.
In one embodiment of the invention the diols may be chosen, for
example, from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene
glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexanedimethanol and 4-butanediol.
Other non-limiting examples of polyols may be chosen, for example,
from glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, and
trimethylolpropane.
[0058] The polyester amides may be obtained in a manner similar to
the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with a nitrogen
containing compound chosen, for example, from diamines and amino
alcohols. Non-limiting representatives of diamines may be chosen,
for example, from ethylenediamine, hexamethylene-diamine,
meta-phenylenediamine and para-phenylenediamine. A non-limiting
example of an aminoalcohol which may be used is
monoethanolamine.
[0059] The polyesters may also comprise at least one monomer
carrying at least one group --SO.sub.3M, wherein M is chosen, for
example, from a hydrogen group, an ammonium ion NH.sub.4.sup.+ and
a metal ion chosen, for example, from Na.sup.+, Li.sup.+, K.sup.+,
Mg.sup.2+, Ca.sup.2+, Cu.sup.2+, Fe.sup.2+ and Fe.sup.3+ ions. A
bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising a group --SO.sub.3M may
also be used, for example.
[0060] The aromatic ring of the bifunctional aromatic monomer also
bearing a group --SO.sub.3M as described above may be chosen, for
example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl,
oxydiphenyl, sulphonyldiphenyl and methylenediphenyl rings.
Examples of bifunctional aromatic monomers also bearing a group
--SO.sub.3M which may be mentioned include: sulphoisophthalic acid,
sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid, and
4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.
[0061] In the compositions according to the invention, it is
possible to use copolymers based on
isophthalate/sulphoisophthalate, such as for example, copolymers
obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol,
cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulphoisophthalic acid.
Such polymers are sold, for example, under the trade name EASTMAN
AQ by the company Eastman Chemical Products.
[0062] The film-forming polymer of natural origin, which can be
optionally modified, may be chosen, for example, from shellac
resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, and water-insoluble
cellulosic polymers.
[0063] Non-limiting examples of polymers formed from free-radical
polymerization of at least one free-radical monomer located inside
and/or partially at the surface, of preexisting particles of at
least one polymer chosen, for example, from polyurethanes,
polyureas, polyesters, polyester amides and alkyds. These polymers
are generally called "hybrid polymers."
[0064] The dispersion comprising at least one film-forming polymer
may be prepared by persons skilled in the art on the basis of their
general knowledge.
[0065] The size of the particles of the at least one film-forming
polymer may range from 10 nm to 500 nm, such as, from 20 nm to 300
nm.
[0066] In one embodiment of the invention, the at least one
film-forming polymer has a water uptake of less than or equal to
50%, such as, less than or equal to 40%, further still, less than
or equal to 30%, and even further still less than or equal to
20%.
[0067] According to the present invention, the expression "water
uptake of a film-forming polymer" is understood to mean the
percentage of water absorbed by the polymer after immersing the
polymer for 10 minutes in water at 20.degree. C. The water uptake
is measured by a layer 300 .mu.m thick (before drying) deposited on
a plate and then dried for 24 hours at 30.degree. C. and at 50%
relative humidity; pieces of about 1 cm.sup.2 cut out of the dry
film are weighed (measurement of the mass M.sub.1) and then
immersed in water for 10 minutes; after immersion, the piece of
film is wiped to remove the excess water at the surface and then
weighed (measurement of the mass M.sub.2). The difference,
M.sub.2-M.sub.1, corresponds to the quantity of water absorbed by
the polymer.
[0068] The water uptake is equal to
[(M.sub.2-M.sub.1)/M.sub.1].times.100 and is expressed as a
percentage by weight of water relative to the weight of
polymer.
[0069] The at least one film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion
may be present in the composition according to the invention in a
dry matter content ranging, for example, from 1% to 60% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 5% to
40% by weight, and further from 10% to 30% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition.
[0070] The composition according to the invention may further
comprise at least one film-forming aid which promotes the formation
of a film with the particles of at least one film-forming polymer.
Non-limiting representatives of the at least one film-forming aid
may be chosen, for example, from all compounds known to persons
skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired
function, such as compounds chosen from plasticizing agents and
coalescing agents.
[0071] The aqueous phase of the composition may consist essentially
of water and may also comprise a mixture of water and at least one
water-miscible solvent chosen, for example, lower monoalcohols
having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as for example, ethanol and
isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as for
example, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol,
and dipropylene glycol, (C.sub.3-C.sub.4) ketones, and
(C.sub.2-C.sub.4) aldehydes. The aqueous phase (water and
optionally at least one water-miscible organic solvent) may be
present in the composition in an amount ranging, for example, from
5% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0072] B. The Wax Microdispersion
[0073] The composition according to the invention may comprise,
moreover, an aqueous microdispersion of particles of at least one
wax. For purposes of this invention, the expression "aqueous
microdispersion of at least one wax" is understood to mean an
aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one wax in which the
size of said particles of at least one wax is less than or equal to
1 .mu.m.
[0074] In the present invention, at least one wax is defined as a
lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25.degree.
C.), with a reversible change of solid/liquid state, having a
melting point range, for example, from at least 30.degree. C. to
120.degree. C. By bringing the wax to the liquid state (melting),
it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a
microscopically homogeneous mixture. However, when the temperature
of the mixture is brought to room temperature, recrystallization of
the wax in the oils of the mixture may be obtained.
[0075] The melting point of the at least one wax may be measured
using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the
calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER. A 15
mg sample of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first
rise in temperature ranging from 0.degree. C. to 120.degree. C., at
the rate of heating of 10.degree. C./minute, and is then cooled
from 120.degree. C. to 0.degree. C. at a cooling rate of 10.degree.
C./minute. The sample is finally subjected to a second rise in
temperature ranging from 0.degree. C. to 120.degree. C. at a
heating rate of 5.degree. C./minute. During the second rise in
temperature, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by
the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of
product is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting
point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding
to the summit of the peak of the curve representing the variation
of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the
temperature.
[0076] Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal
particles of wax, and are described, for example, in
"Microemulsions Theory and Practice," L. M. Prince Ed., Academic
Press (1977) pages 21-32, which is incorporated by reference
herein.
[0077] One method that these wax microdispersions may be obtained
is by melting wax in the presence of a surfactant and optionally a
portion of water, and then gradually adding hot water while
stirring. The intermediate formation of a water-in-oil type
emulsion is observed followed by a phase inversion with final
production of an oil-in-water type microemulsion. On cooling, a
microdispersion of solid colloidal particles of wax is
obtained.
[0078] Wax microdispersions may also be obtained by stirring the
mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means chosen,
for example, from ultrasound devices, high-pressure homogenizers
and turbines.
[0079] The particles of at least one wax in the microdispersion may
have mean particle sizes of less than 1 .mu.m (for example, from
0.02 .mu.m to 0.99 .mu.m), such as from less than 0.5 .mu.m (for
example, from 0.06 .mu.m to 0.5 .mu.m).
[0080] These particles may comprise at least one wax. In addition,
these particles may further comprise (in addition to the at least
one wax) a minor proportion of at least one compound chosen, for
example, from oily fatty additives, pasty fatty additives,
surfactants customary fat-soluble additives and customary
fat-soluble active agents.
[0081] Non-limiting examples of the at least one wax which may be
used in the composition according to the invention may be waxes
which are solid and rigid at room temperature, chosen, for example,
from waxes of animal origin, waxes of plant origin, waxes of
mineral origin, and waxes of synthetic origin. The at least one wax
may have a melting point ranging, for example, from 30.degree. C.
to 120.degree. C., such as ranging from 45.degree. C. to
120.degree. C. The at least one wax may also have a hardness
ranging, for example, from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, such as from 3 MPa
to 15 MPa, further from 6 MPa to 15 MPa.
[0082] Hardness may be determined by measuring the compacting force
measured at 20.degree. C. using a texturometer sold under the name
TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel
cylinder having a diameter of 2 mm, moving at the measuring speed
of 0.1 mm/s and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of
0.3 mm. To carry out the measurement of hardness, the wax is melted
at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax plus
20.degree. C. The molten wax is poured into a container having a
diameter of 30 mm and a depth of 20 mm. The wax is recrystallized
at room temperature (25.degree. C.) for 24 hours, and then the wax
is stored for at least 1 hour at 20.degree. C. before carrying out
the measurement of hardness. The hardness value is the measured
compacting force divided by the surface of the texturometer
cylinder in contact with the wax.
[0083] In one embodiment of the invention, a microdispersion of at
least wax chosen from polar waxes is used. For purposes of this
invention, the expression "polar waxes" is understood to mean at
least one wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one
polar group. The at least one polar group is well known to persons
skilled in the art; and may be chosen, for example, from alcohols,
esters and carboxylic acids. Polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes,
microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite and Fisher-Tropsch waxes do not
form part of the polar waxes.
[0084] In one embodiment of the invention, at least one polar wax
has a mean HANSEN solubility parameter, .delta..sub..alpha. at
25.degree. C., such that .delta..sub..alpha.>0
(J/cm.sup.3).sup.1/2 and better still .delta..sub..alpha.>1
(J/cm.sup.3).sup.1/2. 1 = p 2 + h 2
[0085] where .delta..sub.p and .delta..sub.h are, respectively,
contributions of the polar type and of the types including
interactions specific to the Hansen solubility parameters.
[0086] The definition of the solvents in the three-dimensional
solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by
C. M. HANSEN: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" J.
Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967)(the disclosure of which relating to
the definitions of the HANSEN solubility parameters is specifically
incorporated by reference herein):
[0087] .delta..sub.h relates to the specific forces of
interactions, such as for example, hydrogen bonding, acid/base and
donor/acceptor type, and the like;
[0088] .delta..sub.p relates to the DEBYE forces of interaction
between permanent dipoles and the KEESOM forces of interaction
between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.
[0089] The parameters .delta..sub.h and .delta..sub.p are expressed
in (J/cm.sup.3).sup.1/2.
[0090] Polar waxes may be chosen, for example, from hydrocarbon
waxes and waxes formed from catalytic hydrogenation of oils.
[0091] Non-limiting examples of polar waxes may include hydrocarbon
waxes chosen, for example, from beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese
waxes, rice wax, Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork
fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, waxy
copolymers and esters of waxes.
[0092] Other non-limiting representatives of polar waxes are those
waxes obtained, for example, by catalytic hydrogenation of oils
chosen, for example, from animal oils having linear and branched
(C.sub.8-C.sub.32) fatty chains, and vegetable oils having linear
and branched (C.sub.8-C.sub.32) fatty chains. Among these, there
may be mentioned those oils chosen, for example, from hydrogenated
jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil,
hydrogenated copra oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil.
[0093] Other examples of the at least one wax may include silicone
waxes and fluorinated waxes.
[0094] In one embodiment of the invention carnauba wax, beeswax and
candelilla wax may be used.
[0095] It is also possible to use commercial mixtures of
self-emulsifiable waxes comprising at least one wax and at least
one surfactant. These commercial mixtures make it possible to
prepare microdispersions of at least one wax by simple addition of
water.
[0096] The composition content of wax in the form of a
microdispersion of at least one wax (called first wax), may be
present in a dry matter content ranging, for example, from 0.1% to
50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such
as, from 1% to 30% by weight, and further still from 5% to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0097] The composition may further comprise an effective quantity
of at least one surfactant to make it possible to obtain a wax
microdispersion, as well as a stable, final composition. For
example, the composition in accordance with the invention may
comprise at least one surfactant which is present in an amount
ranging, for example, from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition. The at least one surfactant may be
chosen, for example, from the following compounds:
[0098] anionic surfactants chosen, for example, from optionally
unsaturated fatty acid salts having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
alkali metal salts of salts of organic bases with
(C.sub.12-C.sub.18) alkylsulfuric acids, alkali metal salts of
salts of organic bases with (C.sub.12-C.sub.18) alkylsulfonic
acids, alkali metal salts of salts of organic bases with
(C.sub.6-C.sub.18) alkylarylsulfonic acids, and ether sulfates;
[0099] nonionic surfactants, chosen, for example, from
polyalkoxylated surfactants and polyglycerolated surfactants, such
as fatty acids, fatty acid amides, fatty alcohols, alkylphenols;
esters of fatty acids and polyols, alkanediols, alkyl ethers of
alkanediols; and at least one compound chosen from alkyl carbamates
of triglycerol, oxyethylenated derivatives of lanolin alcohols,
propoxylated derivatives of lanolin alcohols, and lanolin fatty
acids; and
[0100] cationic surfactants, chosen, for example, from quaternary
ammonium derivatives.
[0101] The at least one wax may be further combined with at least
one fatty additive chosen, for example, from fatty oily additives,
fatty pasty additives and fatty, oily and past additives.
Non-limiting examples of at least one fatty additive may be chosen,
for example, from vegetable oils such as sunflower oil and jojoba
oil; mineral oils such as paraffin oil; silicone oils; petroleum
jelly; lanolin; fluorinated oils; and hydrocarbon oils with at
least one perfluorinated group; and esters of fatty alcohols.
[0102] It is possible to further introduce into the
microparticulate waxy phase additional at least one fatty additives
such as fat-soluble active ingredients chosen, for example, from
UV-screening agents, fat-soluble vitamins, and fat-soluble cosmetic
active agents.
[0103] In one embodiment of the invention, the composition may
comprise the microdispersion of at least one wax and the at least
one film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion in a at least one
film-forming polymer to a microdispersed at least one wax weight
ratio ranging, for example, from 50:50 to 95:5, and such as from
60:40 to 80:20.
[0104] C. The Additives
[0105] The composition according to the invention may further
comprise, in addition to the microdispersion of at least one wax,
at least one additional wax in the form of particles having a
particle size, for example, of at least 1 .mu.m, such as, at least
1.3 .mu.m, dispersed in the aqueous phase. This at least one
additional wax does not therefore exist in the form of an aqueous
microdispersion of particles of wax as defined above. In one
embodiment of the invention, the mean particle size of the at least
one additional wax may range, for example, from 1 .mu.m to 10
.mu.m, such as, from 1.3 .mu.m to 5 .mu.m.
[0106] The at least one additional wax may make it possible to
obtain a thick application of make-up onto the eyelashes, it is
then said that the make-up (mascara) has a high loading capacity.
The composition according to the invention comprising the at least
one additional wax may be used to thicken keratinous fibers, such
as for example, eyelashes. This at least one additional wax may be
chosen, for example, from the waxes cited above and may be present
in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging,
for example, from 0% to 30% by weight, such as from 0.1% to 30% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In one
embodiment of the invention, the at least one additional wax is
present in the amount ranging from 1 % to 25% by weight, such as
from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0107] In one embodiment, the at least one film-forming polymer and
the at least one additional wax may be present in the composition
in an at least one film-forming polymer to at least one additional
wax weight ratio ranging, for example, from 40:60 to 95:5, such as
from 55:45 to 80:20.
[0108] The aqueous phase of the composition may further comprise at
least one additional water-soluble film-forming polymer. The at
least one additional water-soluble film-forming polymer may be
present in the composition in an amount ranging, for example, from
0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0109] As at least one additional water-soluble film-forming
polymer, there may be mentioned those chosen, for example,
from:
[0110] water-soluble cellulosic polymers chosen, for example, from
hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl
cellulose, hydroxypropyl ethyl cellulose, and ethyl hydroxyethyl
cellulose;
[0111] keratin derivatives chosen, for example, from keratin
hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins;
[0112] compounds chosen, for example from anionic chitins, cationic
chitins, amphoteric chitins, nonionic chitins and chitosan
derivatives, such as hydroxypropyl chitosan;
[0113] cellulose derivatives chosen, for example, from hydroxyethyl
cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl
hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, and quaternized
derivatives of cellulose;
[0114] acrylic polymers and acrylic copolymers chosen, for example,
from polyacrylates and polymethacrylates;
[0115] compounds chosen from polyvinyl alcohols and
polyvinylpyrrolidones;
[0116] vinyl copolymers chosen, for example, from copolymers of
methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, and copolymers of vinyl
acetate and crotonic acid;
[0117] polyethylene glycols;
[0118] optionally modified polymers of natural origin chosen, for
example from:
[0119] gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum;
alginates, carrageenans, glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid,
hyaluronic acid derivatives, shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars,
elemis, copals, and deoxyribonucleic acid.
[0120] The composition according to the invention may further
comprise at least one coloring agent chosen, for example, from
pulverulent compounds. The at least one coloring agent may be
present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging,
for example, from 0.01 to 50% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition. The pulverulent compounds may be chosen,
for example, from pigments and pearlescent agents normally used in
cosmetic and dermatological compositions.
[0121] In one embodiment of the invention, the pulverulent
compounds may be present in the composition of the invention in an
amount ranging, for example, from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition, such as from 1 to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] The pigments may be chosen from white and colored, inorganic
and organic, pigments. Non-limiting examples of inorganic pigments
may be chosen from titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated
zirconium oxides, optionally surface-treated cerium oxides, iron
oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue,
chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Non-limiting examples of organic
pigments may be chosen from carbon black, D & C type pigments,
and lacquers based on units chosen, for example, from carmine,
barium, strontium, calcium and aluminium.
[0123] Pearlescent pigments may be chosen, for example, from white
pearlescent pigments, such as mica coated with titanium, and mica
coated with bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments, such
as for example, mica-titanium with iron oxides, mica-titanium with,
for example, ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica-titanium with an
organic pigment of the abovementioned type and pearlescent pigments
based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0124] The composition in accordance with the invention may further
comprise at least one filler which may be chosen, for example, from
those well known to persons skilled in the art and which are
commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The at least one filler may
be lamellar and spherical fillers of mineral origin and organic
origin. Non-limiting examples of the at least one filler may be
chosen, for example, from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, Nylon
(ORGASOL from Atochem), poly-.beta.-alanine powders, polyethylene
powders, TEFLON, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, powders of
tetrafluoroethylene polymers, hollow microspheres such as EXPANCEL
(Nobel Industrie), POLYTAP (Dow Corning), microbeads of silicone
resin (TOSPEARLS from Toshiba, for example), precipitated calcium
carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate,
hydroxyapatite, hollow microspheres of silica (SILICA BEADS from
Maprecos), glass microcapsules, ceramic microcapsules, and metallic
soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids containing from 8 to 22
carbon atoms, for example, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as,
zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate
and magnesium myristate.
[0125] The composition according to the invention may further
comprise at least one agent commonly used in cosmetics, chosen, for
example, from trace elements, demulcents, sequestrants, perfumes,
oils, silicones, thickeners, vitamins, proteins, ceramides,
plasticizers, coalescing agents, cohesion agents, alkalinizing
agents, acidifying agents, emollients and preservatives.
[0126] Of course, persons skilled in the art would be careful to
select at least one of these optional additional compounds, and the
amount of any of these optional additional compounds, such that the
advantageous properties of the composition according to the
invention are not substantially impaired by the addition
envisaged.
[0127] The composition according to the invention may be prepared
according to the customary methods in the fields considered.
[0128] Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing
quantities of ingredients, properties such as molecular weight,
reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and
claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by
the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary,
the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification
and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon
the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present
invention. At the very least, and not as an attempt to limit the
application of the doctrine of equivalents to the scope of the
claims, each numerical parameter should at least be construed in
light of the number of reported significant digits and by applying
ordinary rounding techniques.
[0129] Any numerical value inherently contains certain errors
necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their
respective testing measurements.
[0130] The following examples are intended to illustrate the
invention without in anyway limiting the scope thereof.
EXAMPLE 1
[0131] A microdispersion of carnauba wax having the following
composition was prepared:
1 Carnauba wax 27 g Polyoxyethylenated (30 EO) glyceryl
monostearate (TAGAT S from Goldschmidt) 6.75 g Ethanol 10 g Water
qs 100 g
[0132] The wax and the surfactant were heated to 90.degree. C.
while homogenizing the mixture, with moderate stirring. While
maintaining stirring, water, heated to 90.degree. C., was then
incorporated. The mixture was cooled to room temperature and
ethanol was added in order to obtain a wax microdispersion having a
mean particle diameter of about 170 nm.
EXAMPLE 2
[0133] A mascara having the following composition was prepared:
2 Polyurethane in aqueous dispersion sold 14 g AS under the name
AVALURE UR 425 by the company Goodrich at 49% by weight of active
substances Microdispersion of wax of Example 1 31.5 g Beeswax 10 g
Thickening agent 1.9 g Ethanol 7 g Propylene glycol 5 g Pigments 5
g Preservatives qs Water qs 100 g
[0134] The mascara was easily applied to the eyelashes and formed a
make-up which was resistant to cold water. It was easily removed as
make-up with hot water (40-C).
EXAMPLE 3
[0135] A mascara having the following composition was prepared:
3 Sulphopolyester sold under the name 20.8 g AS EASTMAN AQ 55 S by
the company Eastman Microdispersion of wax of Example 1 34.5 g
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.9 g Propylene glycol 5 g Pigments 7 g
Preservatives qs Water qs 100 g
* * * * *