U.S. patent application number 09/920777 was filed with the patent office on 2002-03-28 for antiperspirant compositions.
This patent application is currently assigned to Unilever Home & Personal Care USA, Division of Conopco, Inc. Invention is credited to Bhatia, Shameem, Franklin, Kevin Ronald, Stoimenof, Lara Dimitrova, White, Michael Stephen.
Application Number | 20020037263 09/920777 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 9897033 |
Filed Date | 2002-03-28 |
United States Patent
Application |
20020037263 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Bhatia, Shameem ; et
al. |
March 28, 2002 |
Antiperspirant compositions
Abstract
Antiperspirant formulations containing an antiperspirant active
and a continuous phase comprising a water-immiscible liquid
carrier, such as, amongst other materials, cyclomethicones, that is
structured using an amido-containing compound of the general
formula 1 in which R and R.sup.1 each independently denote a
branched or unbranched moiety containing 5 to 27 carbon atoms, m
and n are each independently, zero or 1, Y is a cyclohexane ring
bearing the amido-containing substituent groups 2 in 1,2 or 1,3
positions.
Inventors: |
Bhatia, Shameem; (Bebington,
GB) ; Franklin, Kevin Ronald; (Bebington, GB)
; Stoimenof, Lara Dimitrova; (London, GB) ; White,
Michael Stephen; (Bebington, GB) |
Correspondence
Address: |
UNILEVER
PATENT DEPARTMENT
45 RIVER ROAD
EDGEWATER
NJ
07020
US
|
Assignee: |
Unilever Home & Personal Care
USA, Division of Conopco, Inc
|
Family ID: |
9897033 |
Appl. No.: |
09/920777 |
Filed: |
August 2, 2001 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/65 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/26 20130101; A45D
40/26 20130101; A61K 8/34 20130101; A61K 8/28 20130101; A61K 8/042
20130101; A61Q 15/00 20130101; A61K 8/342 20130101; A61K 8/42
20130101; A61K 8/585 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/65 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/32 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Aug 4, 2000 |
GB |
0019231.0 |
Claims
We claim
1. An antiperspirant composition comprising: (i) a continuous phase
which comprises water-immiscible liquid carrier, (ii)a structurant
therein which is at least one amido-containing compound of the
general formula 14 wherein R and R.sup.1 each independently denote
an organic moiety of 5 to 27 carbon atoms, m and n are
independently 0 or 1, Y is a cyclohexane ring bearing the
amido-containing substituent groups 15 in 1,2 or 1,3 positions; and
(iii)an antiperspirant active material.
2. A composition according to claim 1 wherein R and R.sup.1 are the
same.
3. A composition according to claim 1 wherein Y denotes
1,2-cyclohexane.
4. A composition according to claim 1 wherein R and R.sup.1 are the
same and Y denotes 1,2-cyclohexane.
5. A composition according to claim 4 wherein m and n are zero, so
that the amido-containing structurant compound has general formula
16
5. A composition according to any one of claims 3, 4 or 5 wherein
the amido-containing structurant has trans stereochemistry.
6. A composition according to claim 5 wherein the amido-containing
structurant is optically active.
7. A composition according to claim 5 wherein the amido-containing
structurant is a cis/trans mixture.
8. A composition according to claim 1 wherein Y denotes
1,3-cyclohexane.
9. A composition according to claim 8 wherein m and n are both
1.
10. A composition according to claim 1 characterised in that the
water-immiscible liquid carrier contains a volatile silicone and
optionally a non-volatile silicone and/or a non-silicone
hydrophobic organic liquid selected from hydrocarbons, hydrophobic
aliphatic esters, aromatic esters, hydrophobic alcohols and
hydrophobic ethers.
11. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the water-immiscible
carrier liquid contains silicone oil in an amount which is at least
10% by weight of the composition.
12. A composition according to any one of claims 1, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10
or 11 containing from 0.1 to 15% by weight of the amido-containing
structurant.
13. A composition according to claim 1 which contains not more than
5% by weight of any fatty alcohol which is solid at 20.degree.
C.
14. A composition according to claim 12 which does not contain more
than 3% of any material which is solid at 30.degree. C., is molten
at 95.degree. C. and soluble in the water-immiscible liquid at
95.degree. C., but does not form a network of fibres in the
water-immiscible liquid.
15. A composition according to any one of claims 1, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10
or 11 wherein the composition is an emulsion with the
antiperspirant active in solution in a hydrophilic, preferably
water-miscible, disperse phase.
16. A composition according to claim 15 wherein the disperse phase
contains a diol or polyol.
17. A composition according to claim 16 wherein the disperse phase
contains glycerol or 1,2-propane diol.
18. A composition according to claim 15 which contains from 0.1% to
10% by weight of a nonionic emulsifier.
19. A composition according to claim 15 which does not contain more
than 8% by weight of ethanol or any monohydric alcohol with a
vapour pressure above 1.3 kPa at 22.degree. C.
20. A composition according to any one of claims 1, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10
or 11 wherein the composition is a suspension with a particulate
antiperspirant active dispersed in said liquid continuous
phase.
21. A composition according to any one of claims 1, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10
or 11 wherein the antiperspirant active comprises an aluminium
and/or zirconium halohydrate, an activated aluminium and/or
zirconium halohydrate, or an aluminium and/or zirconium complex or
an activated aluminium and/or zirconium complex.
22. A composition according to claim 21 which is a halohydrate or
complex in which aluminium and zirconium are both present.
23. A composition according to claim 21 wherein the proportion of
antiperspirant active is from 5 to 40% by weight of the
composition.
24. An antiperspirant product comprising a dispensing container
having at least one aperture for delivery of the contents of the
container, means for urging the contents of the container to the
said aperture or apertures, and a composition according to any one
of claims 1, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10 or 11 accommodated within the
container.
25. A product according to claim 24 wherein the composition is in
the form of a stick and the container has an open end at which an
end portion of the stick of composition is exposed for use.
26. A product according to claim 25 wherein the composition is a
firm gel such that a penetrometer needle with a cone angle of 9
degrees 10 minutes, drops into the gel for no more than 30 mm when
allowed to drop under a total weight of 50 grams for 5 seconds.
27. A product according to claim 24 wherein the composition is a
soft solid and the said aperture or apertures have smaller overall
cross section than the container.
28. A process for the production of a composition according to any
one of claims 1, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10 or 11 comprising, not necessarily
in any order, the steps of incorporating into a water-immiscible
liquid carrier a structurant which is one or more amido structurant
compounds as defined above, mixing the liquid carrier with a
particulate solid antiperspirant active or a solution of
antiperspirant active to be suspended therein, heating to an
elevated temperature at which the structurant is in solution in the
water-immiscible liquid carrier, followed by cooling or permitting
the mixture to cool to a temperature at which it is thickened or
solidified.
29. A process according to claim 25 which includes a step of
pouring the mixture at elevated temperature into a dispensing
container and allowing it to cool therein so as to produce a
product according to claim 24, claim 25 or claim 26.
30. A cosmetic method for preventing or reducing perspiration on
human skin comprising topically applying to the skin a composition
according to any one of claims 1, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10 or 11.
31. A method according to claim 30 in which the composition
contains from 5 to 40% by weight of an antiperspirant active which
comprises an aluminium and/or zirconium halohydrate, an activated
aluminium and/or zirconium halohydrate, or an aluminium and/or
zirconium complex or an activated aluminium and/or zirconium
complex.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to antiperspirant compositions
for application to human skin, especially the axilla.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION AND SUMMARY OF PRIOR ART
[0002] A wide variety of cosmetic compositions for application to
human skin make use of a thickened or structured liquid carrier to
deliver colour or some other active material to the surface of the
skin. A significant example of such cosmetic compositions are
antiperspirant compositions which are widely used in order to
enable their users to avoid or minimise wet patches on their skin,
especially in axillary regions.
[0003] Antiperspirant formulations have been provided with a range
of different product forms. One of these is a so-called "stick"
which is usually a bar of an apparently firm solid material held
within a dispensing container and which retains its structural
integrity and shape whilst being applied. When a portion of the
stick is drawn across the skin surface a film of the stick
composition is transferred to the skin surface. Although the stick
has the appearance of a solid article capable of retaining its own
shape for a period of time, the material usually has a structured
liquid phase so that a film of the composition is readily
transferred from the stick to another surface upon contact. Another
possibility is that a stick is a softer solid composition
accommodated in a dispensing container which in use extrudes the
composition through one or more apertures.
[0004] Antiperspirant sticks can be divided into three categories.
Suspension sticks contain a particulate antiperspirant active
material suspended in a structured carrier liquid phase which
generally is water-immiscible and may be anhydrous. Emulsion sticks
normally have a hydrophilic phase containing the antiperspirant
active in solution, this phase forming an emulsion with a second,
more hydrophobic, liquid phase. The continuous phase of the
emulsion is structured. Solution sticks typically have the
antiperspirant active dissolved in a structured liquid phase which
is polar and may be a mixture of water and a water-miscible organic
solvent, or may be polar organic solvent without water. This
classification into suspension, emulsion and solution types can be
applied to both firm and soft solid compositions.
[0005] There is substantial literature on the structuring or
thickening of antiperspirant compositions.
[0006] Conventionally, many sticks have been structured using
naturally-occurring or synthetic waxy materials. In this way, it is
possible to obtain either a soft solid or a firm solid. Examples of
wax-structured sticks are described in an article in Cosmetics and
Toiletries, 1990, Vol 105, P75-78 and in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5169626 and
4725432.
[0007] More specifically it has been common practice for sticks to
be structured by incorporating fatty alcohol into the composition,
often accompanied by a smaller amount of castor wax. Sticks which
are structured with fatty alcohol tend to leave visible white
deposits on application to human skin; moreover the deposits can
also transfer onto clothing when it comes into contact with the
skin and the wearer can, for example, find white marks at the
armhole of the sleeveless garment. Fatty alcohols are often
regarded as coming within the general category of waxy materials,
but we have observed that they are a more significant source of
white deposits than other waxy materials.
[0008] Some alternative structurants have been proposed. The term
"gellant" is often employed instead of "structurant". Where the
resulting product is liquid of increased viscosity rather than a
solid or gel, the term "thickener" can also be used. For example,
the use of dibenzylidene sorbitol (DBS) or derivatives thereof as
gellant has been proposed in a number of publications such as
EP-A-512770, WO 92/19222, U.S. Pat. No. 4954333, U.S. Pat. No.
4822602 and U.S. Pat. No. 4725430. Formulations containing such
gellants can suffer from a number of disadvantages, including
instability in the presence of acidic antiperspirants, and
comparatively high processing temperatures needed in the production
of sticks.
[0009] U.S. Pat. No. 5750096 is one of several documents which
teaches that gelation can be brought about using esters or amides
of 12-hydroxystearic acid. The alcohol used to form such an ester
or the amine used to form such an amide may contain an aliphatic,
cycloaliphatic or aromatic group with up to 22 carbons therein. If
the group is aliphatic it preferably contains at least three carbon
atoms. A cycloaliphatic group preferably contains at least five
carbon atoms and may be a fixed ring system such as adamantyl.
[0010] N-acyl amino acid amides and esters are also known to
structure liquids. We have established that they do so by forming
fibrous networks. They are described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,969,087.
N-Lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di-n-butylamide is commercially available
from Ajinomoto under their designation GP-1.
[0011] Further materials which have been disclosed as gelling
agents are the amide derivatives of di and tribasic carboxylic
acids set forth in WO 98/27954 notably alkyl N,N'-dialkyl
succinamides.
[0012] It is known from Hanabusa et al "Prominent Gelation and
Chiral Aggregation of Alkylamides Derived from Trans 1,2
Diaminocyclohexane" published in Angew. Chem. Int. Ed. Engl. 1996
35, page 1949 that alkylamides derived from
trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexane are capable of causing the gelation of
a number of organic liquids. The authors reported that the
corresponding cis-compound did not bring about gelation of any of
the liquids tested. Moreover, use of an optically active form of
the trans-compound was necessary because the racemic form was found
to give only an unstable gel.
[0013] Japanese published patent application JP-A-10-237034 (Polar
Kasei Kogyo KK, inventors Hanabusa et al) discloses cosmetic
compositions containing an organic oil gelled with such derivatives
of 1,2-diaminocyclohexane.
[0014] WO 91/04009 (Gillette) discloses antiperspirant compositions
containing dioctyl cyclohexane, but that material is a liquid
present to prevent phase separation of the masking agent and does
not function as a gellant.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0015] We have now found that selected 1,2- and 1,3-substituted
cyclohexane derivatives can be used as structurants for
antiperspirant compositions. When used as a modest percentage of
the composition, typically not more than 15% by weight and often
less than 10% by weight, they are able to structure the
composition, yet at the same time the composition gives a deposit
with a low visible residue.
[0016] It is an object of the present invention to provide
structured antiperspirant compositions, in which a liquid carrier
material is thickened or structured using a structuring agent which
is different from those mentioned above. A further object of the
invention is to provide a structurant which can have superior
properties to at least some of the structurants which have been
used previously.
[0017] A yet further object of some embodiments of the invention is
to provide compositions which exhibit low visible deposits.
Broadly, a first aspect of the present invention provides an
antiperspirant composition comprising:
[0018] (i) a continuous phase which comprises water-immiscible
liquid carrier,
[0019] (ii) a structurant therein which is at least one
amido-containing compound of the general formula 3
[0020] wherein R and R.sup.1 each independently denote a branched
or unbranched moiety containing 5 to 27 carbon atoms, m and n are
each independently, zero or 1, Y is a cyclohexane ring bearing the
amido-containing substituent groups 4
[0021] in 1,2 or 1,3 positions; and
[0022] (iii) an antiperspirant active material.
[0023] Each aliphatic group R or R.sup.1 may be an unsubstituted
alkyl or an alkenyl group, or it may bear functional substituents
which incorporate hetero atoms such as oxygen or nitrogen, or it
may include hetero atoms in a linkage in the chain. If hetero atoms
are present they may, desirably, be included in groups able to
participate in hydrogen bonding.
[0024] R and R.sup.1 may, independently of each other, contain 11
to 17 carbon atoms. They may be mixed groups such as an aliphatic
chain with an aromatic group or cycloalkyl group embedded in
it.
[0025] If Y is a cyclohexane ring bearing the substituent groups in
1,3-positions, m and n are preferably 1. If Y bears the
substituents groups in 1,2-positions m and n are preferably
zero.
[0026] An amido-containing compound as above serves as a
structuring agent or thickener for the water-immiscible liquid
carrier and when used in a sufficient amount, which is likely to be
less than 15% of the total composition, is able to structure this
liquid into a gel with sufficient rigidity to sustain its own
shape.
[0027] We have observed that the structuring compounds used in this
invention form fibres or strands within the liquid phase.
[0028] Without being bound to any specific theory or explanation,
we believe that upon gel formation a network of such fibres is
formed which extends throughout the liquid phase. Upon heating the
gel to the gel melting temperature, the strands of structurant
dissolve and the liquid phase becomes more mobile.
[0029] In order to promote good sensory properties at the time of
use it is preferred to include silicone oil in the water-immiscible
carrier liquid. The amount of silicone oil may be at least 10% by
weight of the composition and/or at least 40% by weight of the
water-immiscible carrier liquid.
[0030] Ethanol gives a cooling effect on application to skin,
because it is very volatile. It is preferred that the content of
ethanol or any monohydric alcohol with a vapour pressure above 1.3
kPa (10 mmHg) is not over 15% better not over 8% by weight of the
composition.
[0031] Fatty alcohols which are solid at room temperature of
20.degree. C., such as stearyl alcohol, lead to deposits with an
opaque white appearance and are preferably kept to low
concentration or entirely excluded. As already mentioned, fatty
alcohols are often regarded as coming within the general category
of waxy materials. More generally the term "wax" is conventionally
applied to a variety of materials and mixtures (including some
fatty alcohols) which have some diversity in chemical structure but
similarity in physical properties. The term generally denotes
materials which are solid at 30.degree. C., often also solid up to
40.degree. C., but which melt to a mobile liquid at a temperature
below 95.degree. C. usually below 90.degree. C.
[0032] Possibly the composition does not include more than 3% of
any material which is solid at 30.degree. C. but at 95.degree. C.
is molten and soluble in the water-immiscible liquid of the
continuous phase, yet which is unable to form a network of fibres
in the continuous phase on cooling to 20.degree. C.
[0033] As will be explained in more detail below, the structured
water-immiscible carrier liquid may be the continuous phase of a
composition with a dispersed second phase, either an emulsion or a
suspension of particulate solid. Such a solid may be a particulate
antiperspirant active. A disperse phase may be a solution of
antiperspirant active in water or other hydrophilic solvent.
[0034] Further advantages of preferred structurant materials of
this invention are that they do not require high processing
temperatures and that they are chemically stable, both during
processing and in the resultant compositions. The avoidance of high
processing temperatures can be especially valuable when the
composition contains some water or other volatile constituent.
[0035] A composition of this invention will generally be marketed
in a container by means of which it can be applied at time of use.
This container may be of conventional type.
[0036] A second aspect of the invention therefore provides an
antiperspirant product comprising a dispensing container having at
least one aperture for delivery of the contents of the container,
means for urging the contents of the container to the said aperture
or apertures, and a composition of the first aspect of the
invention in the container.
[0037] Means for urging the contents of the container to the said
aperture or apertures, for flow through them, may be moving parts
operable by the user.
[0038] However, if the composition is a soft solid, means for
urging the contents of the container to the said aperture or
apertures, may simply be flexible container walls so that the user
can expel composition from the container by squeezing it.
[0039] The compositions of this invention can be produced by
conventional processes for making cosmetic solids or
soft-solids.
[0040] Thus, according to a third aspect of the present invention
there is provided a process for the production of an antiperspirant
composition comprising, not necessarily in any order, the steps
of:
[0041] incorporating into a water-immiscible liquid carrier a
structurant which is one or more structurant compounds as defined
above, mixing the liquid carrier with a solid or a disperse liquid
phase comprising antiperspirant active in particulate or dissolved
form to be suspended therein, and which comprises an antiperspirant
active,
[0042] heating the liquid carrier or a mixture containing it to an
elevated temperature at which the structurant is soluble in the
water-immiscible liquid carrier, followed by:
[0043] introducing the mixture into a mould which preferably is a
dispensing container, and then
[0044] cooling or permitting the mixture to cool to a temperature
at which it is thickened or solidified.
[0045] A suspended solid may be an antiperspirant active and a
disperse liquid phase may be a solution of such an active in a
hydrophilic or polar solvent.
[0046] According to a fourth aspect of the present invention, there
is provided a cosmetic method for preventing or reducing
perspiration on human skin comprising topically applying to the
skin a composition comprising an antiperspirant active, a
water-immiscible liquid carrier and a structurant compound as
defined above.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION AND EMBODIMENTS
[0047] As mentioned above the invention requires a structurant
compound within a water-immiscible liquid phase. Other materials
may also be present depending on the nature of the composition. The
various materials will now be discussed by turn and preferred
features and possibilities will be indicated.
[0048] The structurant compounds of the present invention have a
general formula: 5
[0049] as given above. Two more specific possibilities are: 6
[0050] In the above formulae R and R.sup.1 are preferably the
same.
[0051] In the formulae above the two ring carbon atoms (shown
numbered) bonded to the amido group-containing side chains are both
chiral centres. The compounds thus have the possibility of more
than one stereochemical conformation of the aliphatic ring and also
optical enantiomers of each stereochemical form.
[0052] We have found that all stereochemical and optical isomers
will function as structurants, although optically active forms may
be superior.
[0053] The amido-containing structurant compound(s) used in this
invention may be a mixture of compounds within the general formulae
given, or may be a single compound, possibly as a mixture of its
optically active forms.
[0054] These amido-containing structurant compounds can be prepared
by reacting the respective amine compound with an acid chloride, or
possibly with an anhydride or an ester.
[0055] The amount of the said structurant compound(s) in a
composition of this invention is likely to be from 0.1 or 0.5 to
15% by weight of the whole composition and preferably from 0.5 up
to 8% or 10%, probably from 1 to 8%. In other instances, the amount
is from 10 to 15% of the formulation. If the composition is an
emulsion with a separate disperse phase, the amount of structurant
compound(s) is likely to be from 0.5 to 20% or even 25% by weight
of the continuous phase, more likely from 1% to 15% of this
phase.
[0056] Carrier liquid
[0057] The water-immiscible carrier liquid comprises one or a
mixture of materials which are relatively hydrophobic so as to be
immiscible in water. Some hydrophilic liquid may be included in the
carrier, provided the overall carrier liquid mixture is immiscible
with water. It will generally be desired that this carrier is
liquid (in the absence of structurant) at temperatures of
15.degree. C. and above. It may have some volatility but its vapour
pressure will generally be less than 4 kPa (30 mmHg) at 25.degree.
C. so that the material can be referred to as an oil or mixture of
oils. More specifically, it is desirable that at least 80% by
weight of the hydrophobic carrier liquid should consist of
materials with a vapour pressure not over this value of 4 kPa at
25.degree. C.
[0058] It is preferred that the hydrophobic carrier material
includes a volatile liquid silicone, i.e. liquid
polyorganosiloxane. To class as "volatile" such material should
have a measurable vapour pressure at 20 or 25.degree. C. Typically
the vapour pressure of a volatile silicone lies in a range from 1
or 10 Pa to 2 kPa at 25.degree. C.
[0059] It is desirable to include volatile silicone because it
gives a "drier" feel to the applied film after the composition is
applied to skin.
[0060] Volatile polyorganosiloxanes can be linear or cyclic or
mixtures thereof. Preferred cyclic siloxanes include
polydimethylsiloxanes and particularly those containing from 3 to 9
silicon atoms and preferably not more than 7 silicon atoms and most
preferably from 4 to 6 silicon atoms, otherwise often referred to
as cyclomethicones. Preferred linear siloxanes include
polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9 silicon atoms. The
volatile siloxanes normally by themselves exhibit viscosities of
below 10.sup.-5 m.sup.2/sec (10 centistokes), and particularly
above 10.sup.-7 m.sup.2/sec (0.1 centistokes), the linear siloxanes
normally exhibiting a viscosity of below 5.times.10.sup.-6
m.sup.2/sec (5 centistokes). The volatile silicones can also
comprise branched linear or cyclic siloxanes such as the
aforementioned linear or cyclic siloxanes substituted by one or
more pendant -0-Si(CH.sub.3).sub.3 groups. Examples of commercially
available silicone oils include oils having grade designations 344,
345, 244, 245 and 246 from Dow Corning Corporation; Silicone 7207
and Silicone 7158 from Union Carbide Corporation; and SF1202 from
General Electric.
[0061] The hydrophobic carrier employed in compositions herein can
alternatively or additionally comprise non-volatile silicone oils,
which include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and
polyethersiloxane copolymers. These can suitably be selected from
dimethicone and dimethicone copolyols. Commercially available
non-volatile silicone oils include Dow Corning 556 and Dow Corning
200 series.
[0062] The water-immiscible liquid carrier may contain from 0% to
100% by weight of one or more liquid silicones. Preferably, there
is sufficient liquid silicone to provide at least 10%, better at
least 15%, by weight of the whole composition. If silicone oil is
used, volatile silicone preferably constitutes from 20 to 100% of
the weight of the carrier liquid. In many instances, when a
non-volatile silicone oil is present, its weight ratio to volatile
silicone oil is chosen in the range of from 1:3 to 1:40.
[0063] Silicon-free hydrophobic liquids can be used instead of, or
more preferably in addition to liquid silicones. Silicon-free
hydrophobic organic liquids which can be incorporated include
liquid aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oils or hydrogenated
polyisobutene, often selected to exhibit a low viscosity. Further
examples of liquid hydrocarbons are polydecene and paraffins and
isoparaffins of at least 10 carbon atoms.
[0064] Other hydrophobic carriers are liquid aliphatic or aromatic
esters, but these can be used as only part of the liquid carrier,
desirably not above 20%, and possibly less than 10% by weight of
the water-immiscible liquid carrier.
[0065] Suitable aliphatic esters contain at least one long chain
alkyl group, such as esters derived from C.sub.1 to C.sub.20
alkanols esterified with a C.sub.8 to C.sub.22 alkanoic acid or
C.sub.6 to C.sub.10 alkanedioic acid. The alkanol and acid moieties
or mixtures thereof are preferably selected such that they each
have a melting point of below 20.degree. C. These esters include
isopropyl myristate, lauryl myristate, isopropyl palmitate,
diisopropyl sebacate and diisopropyl adipate.
[0066] Suitable liquid aromatic esters, preferably having a melting
point of below 20.degree. C., include fatty alkyl benzoates.
Examples of such esters include suitable C.sub.8 to C.sub.18 alkyl
benzoates or mixtures thereof.
[0067] Further instances of suitable hydrophobic carriers comprise
liquid aliphatic ethers derived from at least one fatty alcohol,
such as myristyl ether derivatives e.g. PPG-3 myristyl ether or
lower alkyl ethers of polygylcols such as PPG-14 butyl ether.
[0068] Aliphatic alcohols which are solid at 20.degree. C., such as
stearyl alcohol are preferably absent or present in low
concentration such as less than 5% by weight of the whole
composition since these lead to visible white deposits when a
composition is used.
[0069] However, aliphatic alcohols which are liquid at 20.degree.
C. may be employed. These include branched chain alcohols of at
least 10 carbon atoms such as isostearyl alcohol and octyl
dodecanol.
[0070] Silicon-free liquids can constitute from 0-100% of the
water-immiscible liquid carrier, but it is preferred that silicone
oil is present and that the amount of silicon-free constituents
preferably constitutes up to 50 or 60% and in many instances from
20 to 60% by weight of the carrier liquid.
[0071] Liquid Disperse Phase
[0072] If the composition is an emulsion in which the
amido-containing compound acts as a structurant in the continuous
phase, the emulsion will contain a more polar disperse phase. The
disperse phase may be a solution of an active ingredient.
[0073] The hydrophilic disperse phase in an emulsion normally
comprises water as solvent and can comprise one or more water
soluble or water miscible liquids in addition to or replacement for
water. The proportion of water in an emulsion according to the
present invention is often selected in the range of up to 60%, and
particularly from 10% up to 40% or 50% of the whole
formulation.
[0074] One class of water soluble or water-miscible liquids
comprises short chain monohydric alcohols, e.g. C.sub.1 to C.sub.4
and especially ethanol or isopropanol, which can impart a
deodorising capability to the formulation. A further class of
hydrophilic liquids comprises diols or polyols preferably having a
melting point of below 40.degree. C., or which are water miscible.
Examples of water-soluble or water-miscible liquids with at least
one free hydroxy group include ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene
glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol,
dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol
monomethylether, triethyleneglycol monomethylether and sorbitol.
Especially preferred are propylene glycol and glycerol.
[0075] In an emulsion the disperse phase is likely to constitute
from 5 to 80 or 85% of the weight of the composition preferably
from 5 to 50 or 65% more preferably from 25 or 35% up to 50 or 65%,
while the continuous phase with the structurant therein provides
the balance from 15 or 35% up to 95% of the weight of the
composition. Compositions with high proportion of disperse phase,
i.e. from 65 to 85% disperse phase, may also be advantageous. They
can give good hardness even though the concentration of structurant
may be only a small percentage of the total composition.
[0076] An emulsion composition will generally include one or more
emulsifying surfactants which may be anionic, cationic,
zwitterionic and/or nonionic surfactants. The proportion of
emulsifier in the composition is often selected in the range up to
10% by weight and in many instances from 0.1 or 0.25 up to 5% by
weight of the composition. Most preferred is an amount from 0.1 or
0.25 up to 3% by weight. Nonionic emulsifiers are frequently
classified by HLB value. It is desirable to use an emulsifier or a
mixture of emulsifiers with an overall HLB value in a range from 2
to 10 preferably from 3 to 8.
[0077] It may be convenient to use a combination of two or more
emulsifiers which have different HLB values above and below the
desired value. By employing the two emulsifiers together in
appropriate ratio, it is readily feasible to attain a weighted
average HLB value that promotes the formation of an emulsion.
[0078] Many suitable emulsifiers of high HLB are nonionic ester or
ether emulsifiers comprising a polyoxyalkylene moiety, especially a
polyoxyethylene moiety, often containing from about 2 to 80, and
especially 5 to 60 oxyethylene units, and/or contain a polyhydroxy
compound such as glycerol or sorbitol or other alditol as
hydrophilic moiety. The hydrophilic moiety can contain
polyoxypropylene. The emulsifiers additionally contain a
hydrophobic alkyl, alkenyl or aralkyl moiety, normally containing
from about 8 to 50 carbons and particularly from 10 to 30 carbons.
The hydrophobic moiety can be either linear or branched and is
often saturated, though it can be unsaturated, and is optionally
fluorinated. The hydrophobic moiety can comprise a mixture of chain
lengths, for example those deriving from tallow, lard, palm oil,
sunflower seed oil or soya bean oil. Such nonionic surfactants can
also be derived from a polyhydroxy compound such as glycerol or
sorbitol or other alditols. Examples of emulsifiers include
ceteareth-10 to -25, ceteth-10-25, steareth-10-25 (i.e. C.sub.16 to
C.sub.18 alcohols ethoxylated with 10 to 25 ethylene oxide
residues) and PEG-15-25 stearate or distearate. Other suitable
examples include C.sub.10-C.sub.20 fatty acid mono, di or
tri-glycerides. Further examples include C.sub.18-C.sub.22 fatty
alcohol ethers of polyethylene oxides (8 to 12 EO).
[0079] Examples of emulsifiers, which typically have a low HLB
value, often a value from 2 to 6 are fatty acid mono or possibly
diesters of polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, sorbitol,
erythritol or trimethylolpropane. The fatty acyl moiety is often
from C.sub.14 to C.sub.22 and is saturated in many instances,
including cetyl, stearyl, arachidyl and behenyl. Examples include
monoglycerides of palmitic or stearic acid, sorbitol mono or
diesters of myristic, palmitic or stearic acid, and
trimethylolpropane monoesters of stearic acid.
[0080] A particularly desirable class of emulsifiers comprises
dimethicone copolymers, namely polyoxyalkylene modified
dimethylpolysiloxanes. The polyoxyalkylene group is often a
polyoxyethylene (POE) or polyoxypropylene (POP) or a copolymer of
POE and POP. The copolymers often terminate in C.sub.1 to C.sub.12
alkyl groups.
[0081] Suitable emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers are widely available
under many trade names and designations including Abil.TM.,
Arlacel.TM., Brij.TM., Cremophor.TM., Dehydrol.TM., Dehymuls.TM.,
Emerest.TM., Lameform.TM., Pluronic.TM., Prisorine.TM., Quest
PGPH.TM., Span.TM., Tween.TM., SF1228, DC3225C and Q2-5200.
[0082] Antiperspirant Actives
[0083] The composition will also contain an antiperspirant active.
Antiperspirant actives, are preferably incorporated in an amount of
from 0.5-60%, particularly from 5 to 30% or 40% and especially from
5 or 10% to 30 or 35% of the weight of the composition.
[0084] Antiperspirant actives for use herein are often selected
from astringent active salts, including in particular aluminium,
zirconium and mixed aluminium/zirconium salts, including both
inorganic salts, salts with organic anions and complexes. Preferred
astringent salts include aluminium, zirconium and
aluminium/zirconium halides and halohydrate salts, such as
chlorohydrates.
[0085] Aluminium halohydrates are usually defined by the general
formula Al.sub.2(OH).sub.xQ.sub.y.wH.sub.2O in which Q represents
chlorine, bromine or iodine, x is variable from 2 to 5 and x+y=6
while wH.sub.2O represents a variable amount of hydration.
Especially effective aluminium halohydrate salts, known as
activated aluminium chlorohydrates, are described in EP-A-6739
(Unilever NV et al), the contents of which specification is
incorporated herein by reference. Some activated salts do not
retain their enhanced activity in the presence of water but are
useful in substantially anhydrous formulations, i.e. formulations
which do not contain a distinct aqueous phase.
[0086] Zirconium actives can usually be represented by the
empirical general formula: ZrO(OH) .sub.2n-nzB.sub.z.wH.sub.2O in
which z is a variable in the range of from 0.9 to 2.0 so that the
value 2n-nz is zero or positive, n is the valency of B, and B is
selected from the group consisting of chloride, other halide,
sulphamate, sulphate and mixtures thereof. Possible hydration to a
variable extent is represented by wH.sub.2O. Preferable is that B
represents chloride and the variable z lies in the range from 1.5
to 1.87. In practice, such zirconium salts are usually not employed
by themselves, but as a component of a combined aluminium and
zirconium-based antiperspirant.
[0087] The above aluminium and zirconium salts may have coordinated
and/or bound water in various quantities and/or may be present as
polymeric species, mixtures or complexes. In particular, zirconium
hydroxy salts often represent a range of salts having various
amounts of the hydroxy group. Zirconium aluminium chlorohydrate may
be particularly preferred.
[0088] Antiperspirant complexes based on the above-mentioned
astringent aluminium and/or zirconium salts can be employed. The
complex often employs a compound with a carboxylate group, and
advantageously this is an amino acid. Examples of suitable amino
acids include dl-tryptophan, dl-.beta.-phenylalanine, dl-valine,
dl-methionine and .beta.-alanine, and preferably glycine which has
the formula CH.sub.2 (NH.sub.2)COOH.
[0089] It is highly desirable to employ complexes of a combination
of aluminium halohydrates and zirconium chlorohydrates together
with amino acids such as glycine, which are disclosed in U.S. Pat.
No. 3,792,068 (Luedders et al). Certain of those Al/Zr complexes
are commonly called ZAG in the literature. ZAG actives generally
contain aluminium, zirconium and chloride with an Al/Zr ratio in a
range from 2 to 10, especially 2 to 6, an Al/Cl ratio from 2.1 to
0.9 and a variable amount of glycine. Actives of this preferred
type are available from Westwood, from Summit and from Reheis.
[0090] Other actives which may be utilised include astringent
titanium salts, for example those described in GB 2299506A.
[0091] The proportion of solid antiperspirant salt in a composition
normally includes the weight of any water of hydration and any
complexing agent that may also be present in the solid active.
However, when the active salt is in solution, its weight excludes
any water present.
[0092] If the composition is in the form of an emulsion the
antiperspirant active will be dissolved in the disperse phase. In
this case, the antiperspirant active will often provide from 3 to
60% by weight of the disperse phase, particularly from 10% or 20%
up to 55% or 60% of that phase. Alternatively, the composition may
take the form of a suspension in which antiperspirant active in
particulate form is suspended in the water-immiscible liquid
carrier. Such a composition will probably not have any separate
aqueous phase present and may conveniently be referred to as
"substantially anhydrous" although it should be understood that
some water may be present bound to the antiperspirant active or as
a small amount of solute within the water-immiscible liquid phase.
In such compositions, the particle size of the antiperspirant salts
often falls within the range of 0.1 to 200 .mu.m with a mean
particle size often from 3 to 20.mu.m. Both larger and smaller mean
particle sizes can also be contemplated such as from 20 to 50.mu.m
or 0.1 to 3.mu.m.
[0093] Optional ingredients
[0094] Optional ingredients in compositions of this invention can
include disinfectants, for example at a concentration of up to
about 10% w/w. Suitable deodorant actives can comprise deodorant
effective concentrations of antiperspirant metal salts,
deoperfumes, and/or microbicides, including particularly
bactericides, such as chlorinated aromatics, including biguanide
derivatives, of which materials known as Igasan DP300.TM.
(triclosan), Tricloban.TM., and Chlorhexidine warrant specific
mention. A yet another class comprises biguanide salts such as are
available under the trade mark Cosmosil.TM..
[0095] Other optional ingredients include wash-off agents, often
present in an amount of up to 10% w/w to assist in the removal of
the formulation from skin or clothing. Such wash-off agents are
typically nonionic surfactants such as esters or ethers containing
a C.sub.8 to C.sub.22 alkyl moiety and a hydrophilic moiety which
can comprise a polyoxyalkylene group (POE or POP) and/or a
polyol.
[0096] A further optional constituent of the formulation comprises
one or more secondary structurants which can be employed in
addition to the amido-containing compound which is the primary
structurant. The amount of such secondary structurants in the
formulation is often zero, and usually not more than 15% of the
formulation. It is normally not greater than the amount of the
primary structurant.
[0097] The secondary structurants employable herein can be
non-polymeric or polymeric. Solid linear fatty alcohol and/or a wax
may be included but are not preferred. In anhydrous compositions
notably antiperspirants which are suspension sticks, non-polymeric
secondary structurants, sometimes referred to as gellants, can be
selected from fatty acids or salts thereof, such as stearic acid or
sodium stearate or 12-hydroxy stearic acid. Fatty acids are
preferably not used in aqueous sticks, e.g. aqueous emulsion sticks
because they can form insoluble precipitates with aluminium ions.
Other suitable gellants can comprise dibenzylidene alditols, e.g.
dibenzylidene sorbitol. Further suitable gellants can comprise
lanosterol, selected N-acyl amino acid derivatives, including ester
and amide derivatives, such as N-lauroyl glutamic acid
dibutylamide, which gellants can be contemplated in conjunction
with 12-hydroxy stearic acid or an ester or amide derivative
thereof. Still further gellants include amide derivatives of di or
tribasic carboxylic acids, such as alkyl N,N' dialkylsuccinamides,
e.g. dodecyl N,N'-dibutylsuccinamide.
[0098] Polymeric structurants which can be employed can comprise
organo polysiloxane elastomers such as reaction products of a vinyl
terminated polysiloxane and a cross linking agent or alkyl or alkyl
polyoxyalkylene-terminated poly (methyl substituted) or poly
(phenyl substituted) siloxanes. A number of polyamides have also
been disclosed as structurants for hydrophobic liquids. Polymers
containing both siloxane and hydrogen bonding groups, which might
be used as secondary structurants, have been disclosed in WO
97/36572 and WO 99/06473. If an aqueous disperse phase is present,
polyacrylamides, polyacrylates or polyalkylene oxides may be used
to structure or thicken this aqueous phase.
[0099] One category of polymer which may be employed as a second
structurant for the continuous phase is a polysaccharide esterified
with monocarboxylic acid containing at least 8 carbon atoms.
[0100] Preferred in this category is a dextrin fatty acid ester
having the formula: 7
[0101] wherein each R group, individually, is a hydrogen or an acyl
group of up to 22 carbon atoms, provided that at least one R group
per glucose unit is an acyl group of 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and m
has a value from about 20 to 30. The dextrin fatty acid ester can
be a partial ester, i.e. at least one R group is hydrogen. Another
possibility is that the dextrin can be completely esterified with
C.sub.8 to C.sub.22 acyl groups, i.e. every R group is a
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 acyl group. In preferred embodiments, the degree
of substitution with an R group which is a C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl
group is at least 2 (i.e., at least two R groups are
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 acyl groups). A further possibility would be that
some R groups are acyl groups of less than 8 carbon atoms while
some R groups (at least one per glucose residue, preferably at
least two) is a C.sub.8 to C.sub.22 acyl group. The
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 fatty acids that provide acyl groups can be
saturated or unsaturated acids.
[0102] The compositions herein can incorporate one or more cosmetic
adjuncts conventionally contemplatable for antiperspirant solids or
soft solids. Such cosmetic adjuncts can include skin feel
improvers, such as talc or finely divided polyethylene, for example
in an amount of up to about 10%; skin benefit agents such as
allantoin or lipids, for example in an amount of up to 5%; colours;
skin cooling agents other than the already mentioned alcohols, such
a menthol and menthol derivatives, often in an amount of up to 2%,
all of these percentages being by weight of the composition. A
commonly employed adjunct is a perfume, which is normally present
at a concentration of from 0 to 4% and in many formulations from
0.25 to 2% by weight of the composition.
[0103] Mechanical Properties and Product Packages
[0104] The compositions of this invention are structured liquids
and may be firm or soft in appearance. Even a soft solid has an
ability to sustain its own shape, for instance if it is removed
from a mould without being subjected to shear it will retain its
shape for at least 30 seconds, usually longer.
[0105] A composition of this invention will usually be marketed as
a product comprising a container with a quantity of the composition
therein, where the container has at least one aperture for the
delivery of composition, and means for urging the composition in
the container towards the delivery aperture. Conventional
containers take the form of a barrel of oval cross section with the
delivery aperture(s) at one end of the barrel.
[0106] A composition of this invention may be sufficiently rigid
that it is not apparently deformable by hand pressure and is
suitable for use as a stick product in which a quantity of the
composition in the form of a stick is accommodated within a
container barrel having an open end at which an end portion of the
stick of composition is exposed for use. The opposite end of the
barrel is closed.
[0107] Generally the container will include a cap for its open end
and a component part which is sometimes referred to as an elevator
or piston fitting within the barrel and capable of relative axial
movement along it. The stick of composition is accommodated in the
barrel between the piston and the open end of the barrel. The
piston is used to urge the stick of composition along the barrel.
The piston and stick of composition may be moved axially along the
barrel by manual pressure on the underside of the piston using a
finger or rod inserted within the barrel. Another possibility is
that a rod attached to the piston projects through a slot or slots
in the barrel and is used to move the piston and stick. Preferably
the container also includes a transport mechanism for moving the
piston comprising a threaded rod which extends axially into the
stick through a correspondingly threaded aperture in the piston,
and means mounted on the barrel for rotating the rod. Conveniently
the rod is rotated by means of a hand-wheel mounted on the barrel
at its closed end, i.e. the opposite end to the delivery
opening.
[0108] If a composition of this invention is softer, but still
capable of sustaining its own shape it will be more suited for
dispensing from a barrel with a closure instead of an open end,
where the closure has one or more apertures through which
composition from the barrel can be extruded. The number and design
of such apertures is at the discretion of the designer of the
package.
[0109] The component parts of such containers are often made from
thermoplastic materials, for example polypropylene or polyethylene.
Descriptions of suitable containers, some of which include further
features, are found in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4865231, 5000356 and
5573341.
[0110] Measurement of Properties
[0111] i) Penetrometer
[0112] The hardness and rigidity of a composition which is a firm
solid can be determined by penetrometry. If the composition is a
softer solid, this will be observed as a substantial lack of any
resistance to the penetrometer probe.
[0113] A suitable procedure is to utilises a lab plant PNT
penetrometer equipped with a Seta wax needle (weight 2.5 grams)
which has a cone angle at the point of the needle specified to be
9.degree.10'.+-.15'. A sample of the composition with a flat upper
surface is used. The needle is lowered onto the surface of the
composition and then a penetration hardness measurement is
conducted by allowing the needle with its holder to drop under a
total weight, (i.e. the combined weight of needle and holder) of 50
grams for a period of five seconds after which the depth of
penetration is noted. Desirably the test is carried out at a number
of points on each sample and the results are averaged. Utilising a
test of this nature, an appropriate hardness for use in an
open-ended dispensing container is a penetration of less than 30 mm
in this test, for example in a range from 2 to 30 mm. Preferably
the penetration is in a range from 5 mm to 20 mm.
[0114] In a specific protocol for this test measurements on a stick
were performed in the stick barrel. The stick was wound up to
project from the open end of the barrel, and then cut off to leave
a flat, uniform surface. The needle was carefully lowered to the
stick surface, and then a penetration hardness measurement was
conducted. This process was carried out at six different points on
the stick surface. The hardness reading quoted is the average value
of the 6 measurements.
[0115] ii) Texture Analyser
[0116] This test apparatus can move a blunt probe into or out from
a sample at a controlled speed and at the same time measure the
applied force. The parameter which is determined as hardness is a
function of the peak force and the projected area of
indentation.
[0117] A specific test protocol used a Stable Micro systems TA.XT2i
Texture Analyser. A metal sphere, of diameter 9.5 mm, was attached
to the underside of the Texture Analyser's 5 kg load cell such that
it could be used for indenting a sample placed beneath it on the
base plate of the instrument. After positioning the sample, the
sphere position was adjusted until it was just above the sample
surface. Texture Expert Exceed software was used to generate the
subsequent motion profile used in the test method. This profile
initially indented the sphere into the sample at an indentation
speed of 0.05 mm/s until a designated force was reached, which was
chosen such that the distance of penetration into the sample was
less than the radius of the sphere. At this load the direction of
motion of the sphere was immediately reversed to withdraw the
sphere from the sample at the same speed of 0.05 mm/s. During the
course of the test, the data acquired were time(s), distance (mm)
and force (N) and the data acquisition rate was 25 Hz.
[0118] Suitable samples for measurement were either contained in
stick barrels, which had a screw mechanism (if firm solids), or in
15 ml glass jars (if soft solids). For the barrel samples, the
stick was wound up until it protruded above the edges of the barrel
and then a knife was used to skim the top of the barrel in such a
way as to leave a flat uniform surface. The stick was then pushed
back into the barrel as far as possible to minimise any mechanical
interference resulting from the compliance of the screw mechanism
in the pack. Two indents were generally made either side of the
screw. Soft-solid samples in the 15 ml jars needed no surface
preparation but only had enough surface area for a single
indentation test to be performed.
[0119] The data associated with each test were manipulated using
standard spreadsheet software and used to calculate the hardness,
H, using the following equation: 1 H [ N / mm 2 ] = F max [ N ] A p
[ mm 2 ]
[0120] where F.sub.max is the peak load and A.sub.p is the
projected area of the indentation remaining on unloading. This area
can be calculated geometrically from the plastic indentation depth.
This is slightly less than the total penetration depth measured
under load because of elastic deformation of the sample. The
plastic indentation depth is calculated from a graph of the
unloading-force-versus-total-penetration-depth. The initial slope
of this unloading data depends on the initial elastic recovery of
the sample. The plastic indentation depth is estimated from an
intercept between the zero force axis and a straight line drawn at
a tangent to the initial part of the unloading slope.
[0121] Similar hardness measurements were also done using a desktop
Instron Universal Testing Machine (Model 5566) fitted with a 10 N
load cell, and the data analysis performed in the same way.
[0122] iii) Deposition by Firm Sticks
[0123] Another test of the properties of a composition is the
amount of the composition which is delivered onto a surface when
the composition is drawn across that surface (representing the
application of a stick product to human skin). To carry out this
test of deposition when the composition is a firm stick, able to
sustain its own shape, a sample of the composition with
standardised shape and size is fitted to apparatus which draws the
sample across a test surface under standardised conditions. The
amount transferred to the surface is determined as an increase in
the weight of the substrate to which it is applied. If desired the
colour, opacity or clarity of the deposit may subsequently be
determined. A specific procedure for such tests of deposition and
whiteness applicable to a firm solid stick used apparatus to apply
a deposit from a stick onto a substrate under standardised
conditions and then measures the mean level of white deposits using
image analysis.
[0124] The substrates used were:
[0125] a: 12.times.28 cm strip of grey abrasive paper (3M.TM. P800
WetorDry.TM. Carborundum paper)
[0126] b: 12.times.28 cm strip of black Worsted wool fabric.
[0127] The substrates were weighed before use. The sticks were
previously unused and with domed top surface unaltered.
[0128] The apparatus comprised a flat base to which a flat
substrate was attached by a clip at each end. A pillar having a
mounting to receive a standard size stick barrel was mounted on an
arm that was moveable horizontally across the substrate by means of
a pneumatic piston.
[0129] Each stick was kept at ambient laboratory temperature
overnight before the measurement was made. The stick was advanced
to project a measured amount from the barrel. The barrel was then
placed in the apparatus and a spring was positioned to biassed the
stick against the substrate with a standardised force. The
apparatus was operated to pass the stick laterally across the
substrate eight times. The substrate was carefully removed from the
rig and reweighed. The whiteness of the deposit could subsequently
be measured as described at (v) below.
[0130] (iv) Deposit of soft solid
[0131] A procedure for a soft solid composition was as follows. The
test substrate was a rectangular strip of black worsted fabric 9 cm
by 15 cm. This was placed in an apparatus consisting of a metallic
base onto which was hinged a metallic frame defining a rectangular
aperture of 5 cm by 9 cm. The test substrate was laid on the base.
The hinged frame was placed over the fabric and secured to the base
by means of two screws thereby clamping the test substrate in place
but exposing an area of 5 cm.times.9 cm through the aperture.
[0132] A sample of soft solid composition in a dispensing container
was kept at ambient laboratory temperature (about 20.degree. C.)
before it was required for measurement. A portion of the
composition was then extruded from the container through the
dispensing apertures at one end. A weighted amount (0.51 g) of the
extruded composition was spread uniformly across the 5 cm.times.9
cm area of test substrate enclosed by the frame. Spreading was
carried out using a plastic spreading tool. After spreading the
sample of composition, the substrate was removed from the apparatus
and weighed to check that the mass of applied sample was
0.5.+-.0.01 gms.
[0133] (v) Whiteness of Deposit
[0134] The deposits from the at test (iii) above, or made as in
(iv) above, were assessed for their whiteness after an interval of
24 hours approximately.
[0135] This was done using a Sony XC77 monochrome video camera with
a Cosmicar 16 mm focal length lens positioned vertically above a
black table illuminated from a high angle using fluorescent tubes
to remove shadowing. The apparatus was initially calibrated using a
reference white card, after the fluorescent tubes had been turned
on for long enough to give a steady light output. A cloth or
Carborundum paper with a deposit thereon from the previous test was
placed on the table and the camera was used to capture an image. An
area of the image of the deposit was selected and analysed using a
Kontron IBAS image analyser. This notionally divided the image into
a large array of pixels and measured the grey level of each pixel
on a scale of 0 (black) to 255 (white). The average of the grey
intensity was calculated. This was a measure of the whiteness of
the deposit, with higher numbers indicating a whiter deposit. It
was assumed that low numbers show a clear deposit allowing the
substrate colour to be seen.
[0136] Preparation
[0137] Compositions of this invention can be produced by
conventional processes for making cosmetic solids or soft-solids.
Such processes involve forming a heated mixture of the composition
at a temperature which is sufficiently elevated that all the
structurant dissolves, pouring that mixture into a mould, which may
take the form of a dispensing container, and then cooling the
mixture whereupon the structurant solidifies into a network of
fibres extending through the water-immiscible liquid phase.
[0138] A convenient process sequence for a composition which is a
suspension comprises first forming a solution of the structurant in
the water-immiscible liquid. This is normally carried out by
agitating the mixture at a temperature sufficiently high that all
the structurant dissolves (the dissolution temperature) such as a
temperature in a range from 50 to 120.degree. C. Thereafter the
particulate constituent, for example particulate antiperspirant
active, is blended with the hot mixture. This must be done slowly,
or the particulate solid must be preheated, in order to avoid
premature gelation. The resulting blend is then introduced into a
dispensing container such as a stick barrel. This is usually
carried out at a temperature 5 to 30.degree. C. above the setting
temperature of the composition. The container and contents are then
cooled to ambient temperature. Cooling may be brought about by
nothing more than allowing the container and contents to cool.
Cooling may be assisted by blowing ambient or even refrigerated air
over the containers and their contents.
[0139] In a suitable procedure for making emulsion formulations, a
solution of the structurant in the water-immiscible liquid phase is
prepared at an elevated temperature just as for suspension sticks.
If any emulsifier is being used, this is conveniently mixed into
this liquid phase. Separately an aqueous or hydrophilic disperse
phase is prepared by introduction of antiperspirant active into the
liquid part of that phase (if this is necessary: antiperspirant
actives can sometime be supplied in aqueous solution which can be
utilised as is). If possible, this solution of antiperspirant
active which will become the disperse phase is preferably heated to
a temperature similar to that of the continuous phase with
structurant therein, but without exceeding the boiling point of the
solution, and then mixed with the continuous phase. Alternatively,
the solution is introduced at a rate which maintains the
temperature of the mixture. If it is necessary to work at a
temperature above the boiling temperature of the disperse phase, or
at a temperature where evaporation from this phase is significant,
a pressurised apparatus could be used to allow a higher temperature
to be reached. With the structurant materials of this invention
this is usually unnecessary. After the two phases are mixed, the
resulting mixture is filled into dispensing containers, typically
at a temperature 5 to 30.degree. C. above the setting temperature
of the composition, and allowed to cool as described above for
suspension sticks.
EXAMPLES
Example 1
Preparation of 1,2-diamidocyclohexane Compounds
[0140] The following general procedure was employed, based on that
described by K Hanabusa, M Yamada, M Kimura and H Shirai, in
Prominent Gelation and Chiral Aggregation of Alkylamides Derived
from Trans-1,2-Diaminocyclohexane, Angew. Chem. Int.Ed. Engl., 35
(17), 1949 (1996).
[0141] The reaction vessel was a three necked one liter round
bottom flask equipped with overhead mechanical stirrer, water
condenser and 250 ml pressure equalising dropping funnel.
1,2-diaminocyclohexane in 300 mls of toluene was placed in the
flask followed by triethylamine. The acid chloride in 150 mls of
toluene was placed in the pressure equalising funnel. The solution
of the amine was taken to reflux after which the acid chloride was
added dropwise. A white dense precipitate (triethylamine
hydrochloride) forms almost immediately. After 4 hours of reflux
the triethylamine hydrochloride is filtered off whilst the reaction
mixture is still hot and the toluene is evaporated off under
vacuum.
[0142] Preparation of Trans-(1R,2R)-di-dodecanamido Cyclohexane
[0143] also named as trans
N,N'-bis(dodecanoyl)-1R,2R-diaminocyclohexane and here designated
as structurant K7. The formula of this material is shown below. The
asterisks highlight chiral centres: 8
[0144] This was prepared according to the general reaction method
and with the following reagents: (1R,2R)-(-)-1,2-diaminocyclohexane
(5 g, 4.38.times.10.sup.-2 mol) ex Fluka, lauroyl chloride (19.15
g, 0.87.times.10.sup.-2 mol) and triethylamine (19 mls, 0.14 mol).
A white solid was obtained after recrystallisation from
dichloromethane. The yield was 15.50 g (65%).
[0145] Characterisation:
[0146] .sup.1H n.m.r. was consistent with required structure.
[0147] FT-IR showed V=1637 cm.sup.-1 Amide I (C.dbd.O) stretch
[0148] 1545 cm.sup.-1 Amide II (NH) deformation
[0149] 3272 cm.sup.-1 Amide (NH) stretch
[0150] Preparation of Trans-(1R,2R)-di-octadecanamidocyclohexane
also named N,N'-bis(octadecanoyl)-(1R,2R)-trans-diaminocyclohexane
and here designated structurant K15. The formula of this compound
is shown below. The asterisks highlight chiral centres: 9
[0151] This was prepared according to the general reaction method
and with the following reagents:
[0152] (1R, 2R)-(-)-1,2-diaminocyclohexane (2.5 g,
2.19.times.10.sup.-2 mol) stearoyl chloride (13.26 g,
4.37.times.10.sup.-2 mol) and triethylamine (7 mls,
5.0.times.10.sup.-2 mol). A white solid was obtained after
recrystallisation from dichloromethane. The yield was 9.67 g
(62%).
[0153] Characterisation:
[0154] .sup.1H n.m.r. was consistent with required structure.
[0155] FT-IR showed v=1638 cm.sup.-1 Amide I (C.dbd.O) stretch
[0156] 1545 cm.sup.-1 Amide II (NH) deformation
[0157] 3275 cm.sup.-1 Amide (NH) stretch
[0158] Preparation of Trans-1,2-di-dodecanamidocyclohexane (Not
Optically Active);
[0159] also named as trans
N,N'-bis(dodecanoyl)-1,2-diaminocyclohexane and here referred to as
structurant K25, with formula: 10
[0160] This was prepared according to the general reaction method
and with the following reagents:
[0161] trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexane (4 g, 3.5.times.10.sup.-2 mol;)
ex Aldrich lauroyl chloride (15.33 g, 7.0.times.10.sup.-2 mol) and
triethylamine (10 mls, 7.18.times.10.sup.-2 mol). A white solid was
obtained after recrystallisation from ethanol. The yield was 10.76
g (64%).
[0162] Characterisation
[0163] .sup.1H n.m.r. was consistent with required structure.
[0164] FT-IR showed v=1634 cm.sup.-1 Amide I (C.dbd.O) stretch
[0165] 1540 cm.sup.-1 Amide II (NH) deformation
[0166] 3294 and 3260 cm.sup.-1 Amide (NH) stretch
[0167] Preparation of Cis/Trans-1,2-di-dodecanamidocyclohexane
[0168] also named as N,N'-bis (dodecanoyl)-1,2-diaminocyclohexane
(not optically active; cis/trans mixture). Here it is referred to
as structurant K26, having formula: 11
[0169] This was prepared according to the general reaction method
and with the following reagents:
[0170] 1,2-diaminocyclohexane (4 g, 3.5.times.10.sup.-2 mol) ex
Aldrich, lauroyl chloride (15.33 g, 7.0.times.10.sup.-2 mol) and
triethylamine (10 mls, 7.18.times.10.sup.-2 mol). A white fibrous
material was obtained after recrystallisation from ethanol. The
yield was 6.37 g (38%).
[0171] Characterisation
[0172] .sup.1H n.m.r was consistent with required structure.
[0173] FT-IR v=1634 cm.sup.-1 Amide I (C.dbd.O) stretch
[0174] 1541 cm.sup.-1 Amide II (NH) deformation
[0175] 3294 and 3258 cm.sup.-1 Amide (NH) stretch
[0176] Preparation of Cis/Trans-1,2-di-(2-ethylhexan Amido)
Cyclohexane
[0177] also named as
N,N'-bis(2-ethylhexanoyl)-1,2-diaminocyclohexane (not optically
active; cis/trans mixture). Here it is designated structurant K40.
It has the formula: 12
[0178] This was prepared according to the general reaction method
and with the following reagents:
[0179] 1,2-diaminocyclohexane (4 g, 3.5.times.10.sup.-2 mol) ex
Aldrich, 2-ethylhexanoyl chloride (11.39 g, 7.0.times.10.sup.-2
mol) and triethylamine (9.75 mls, 6.99.times.10.sup.-2 mol). A
white solid was obtained after recrystallisation from ethyl acetate
and hexane. The yield was 4.02 g (31.31%).
[0180] Characterisation
[0181] Mpt:-225-228.degree. C.
[0182] .sup.1H n.m.r. was consistent with required structure
[0183] FT-IR v=1633 cm.sup.-1 Amide I (C.dbd.O) stretch
[0184] 1535 cm.sup.-1 Amide II (NH) deformation
[0185] 3274 and 3258 cm.sup.-1 Amide (NH) stretch
[0186] Preparation of a 1,3-cyclohexane Derivative
[0187] The compound 1,3-cyclohexanebis(methyldodecylamide), also
named N-[3-(dodecanamidomethyl)-cyclohexylmethyl]dodecanamide or
N,N-bis-(dodecanoyl-1,3-(methylamino)cyclohexane, and referred to
here as structurant K19 was prepared by the general reaction
method. The reaction and product were as follows: 13
[0188] The reagents were: 1,3-cyclohexanebis(methylamine), (10 g,
7.03.times.10.sup.-2 mol) and lauroyl chloride (30.76 g,
14.06.times.10.sup.-2 mol).
[0189] The reaction was carried out by heating in the presence of
triethylamine with toluene as solvent. A white solid was obtained
after recrystallisation from dichloromethane. The yield was 21.04 g
(59%).
[0190] Characterisation:
[0191] Mpt: 126-129.degree. C.
[0192] .sup.1H n.m.r. was consistent with required structure.
[0193] FT-IR showed v=1635 cm.sup.-1 Amide I (C.dbd.O) stretch
[0194] 1545 cm.sup.-1 Amide II (NH) deformation
[0195] 3277 cm.sup.-1 Amide (NH) stretch
Example 2
[0196] A number of suspension stick compositions, as set out in the
tables below were prepared. The materials used, and their
proprietary names, were as follows:
[0197] 1) Volatile cyclic silicone (cyclomethicone) DC 245 (Dow
Corning)
[0198] 2) Polypropyleneglycol 14 butylether (Fluid AP from Union
Carbide)
[0199] 3) Polydecene (Silkflo 364 NF from Albemarle)
[0200] 4) Isostearyl alcohol (abbreviated to ISA--Prisorine 3515
from Unichema)
[0201] 5) C12-15 alkyl benzoate (Finsolv TN from Finetex)
[0202] 6) Al/Zr Tetrachlorohydrex glycine complex (AZAG -7167 from
Summit).
[0203] 7) 12-hydroxystearic acid (Caschem)
[0204] The method of preparation was as follows:
[0205] The liquids and the structurant(s) were first mixed together
in a flask and heated to just above the dissolution temperature of
the structurant(s). Gentle stirring was provided with a Hydolph
mixer. Once all the structurant was dissolved the antiperspirant
active was added and the whole mixture cooled to 5-10.degree. C.
above the gelling point determined in a preliminary trial. The
mixture was then poured into stick barrels and cooled at room
temperature. Penetrometer and whiteness measurements as described
above were performed after the sticks had been stored at room
temperature for at least 24 hours.
[0206] Formulations and measured properties are given in the
following tables, in which the amounts of the materials are
percentages by weight.
1 Formulation no: 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 Parts by weight DC
245 (1) 51.4 45.9 51.4 34.3 34.3 34.3 22.8 Fluid AP (2) -- 11.3
17.1 -- 17.6 34.3 22.4 Silkflo 364 NF 17.1 11.3 -- 34.3 17.6 --
22.8 (3) AZAG 7167 (6) 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0 K26 2.5
2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 12 HSA (7) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
Evaluation Hardness (mm) 14.3 23.2 19.2 10.8 19.3 18.2 21.0
Whiteness on 85 55 39 40 33 33 33 grey paper after 24 hours
Whiteness on 56 43 26 42 29 15 13 black wool after 24 hours
Formulation no: 2.8 2.9 2.10 2.11 2.12 2.13 2.14 Parts by weight DC
245 (1) 11.3 11.3 53.3 47.6 25.5 35.5 35.5 Fluid AP (2) 11.3 45.9
-- 11.7 -- 17.8 35.5 Silkflo 364 NF 45.9 11.3 17.8 11.7 35.5 17.8
-- (3) AZAG 7167 (6) 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0 K26 2.5 2.5
2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 12 HSA (7) 5.0 5.0 -- -- -- -- -- Evaluation
Hardness (mm) 16.6 20.9 21.2 20.9 15.4 21.0 19.5 Whiteness on 38 38
54 27 27 26 36 grey paper after 24 hours Whiteness on 24 15 45 29
18 28 42 black wool after 24 hours
[0207] As a comparison, a conventional white antiperspirant stick
structured with fatty alcohol and castor wax gave whiteness values
of:
2 Whiteness on grey paper after 24 hours 118 Whiteness on black
wool after 24 hours 186
[0208]
3 Formulation no: 2.15 2.16 2.17 2.18 2.19 2.20 2.21 2.22 Parts by
weight DC 245 (1) 23.7 11.7 11.7 53.3 35.5 34.3 34.3 35.5 Fluid AP
(2) 23.7 11.7 47.6 17.8 -- 34.3 -- -- Silkflo 364 NF 23.7 47.6 11.7
-- -- -- -- -- (3) Finsolv TN (5) -- -- 35.5 -- 34.3 -- ISA(4) --
-- -- -- -- -- -- 35.5 AZAG 7167 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0 24.0
24.0 (6) K26 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 -- -- -- -- K7 -- -- -- 5.0 -- -- --
K25 -- 2.5 -- -- K40 -- -- -- -- -- 2.5 -- K15 -- -- -- -- -- --
5.0 12 HSA (7) -- -- -- -- -- 5.0 5.0 -- Evaluation Hardness (mm)
14.8 13.7 16.5 22.3 18.7 19.9 11.3 20.7 Whiteness on 32 22 32 57 27
25 27 31 grey paper after 24 hours Whiteness on 33 21 33 45 28 12
13 22 black wool after 24 hours
Example 3
Emulsion Sticks
[0209] A number of emulsion stick compositions were prepared. Some
of the materials used were listed at the beginning of Example 2.
Others were
[0210] 8) Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil EM90 emulsifier from Th.
Goldschmidt)
[0211] 9) 50% aqueous solution of Al/Zr pentachlorohydrate
(Zirkonal 50 from Giulini)
[0212] The liquids and emulsifier were mixed together in a beaker
and heated to 5-10.degree. C. above the dissolution temperature of
the amido-containing structurant, while gently stirring with a
Silverson head. The structurant was added. Next the antiperspirant
active phase, preheated to the same temperature, was added slowly.
During this addition, the stirring was increased to 8000 rpm. Once
the addition was complete the mixture was stirred for a further 5
minutes at 8000 rpm without any cooling. The process was then
stopped and the mixture transferred into stick barrels and left at
room temperature to cool.
4 Formulation No: 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7 Parts by weight DC
245 (1) 7.3 14.7 7.3 22.0 22.0 29.5 22.0 Fluid AP (2) 7.3 14.7 29.5
11.0 22.0 7.3 -- Silkflo 364 NF 29.5 14.7 7.3 11.0 -- 7.3 22.0 (3)
Abil EM 90 (8) 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Zirconal 50 (9) 50.0
50.0 50.0 50.0 50.0 50.0 50.0 K26 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
Evaluation Hardness (mm) 17.4 29.1 17.5 19.3 14.0 14.1 14.5
Whiteness on grey 27 31 34 31 29 26 27 paper after 24 hours
Whiteness on 20 83 30.0 18 14 21 13 black wool after 24 hours
Example 4
Soft Solid Suspensions
[0213] A number of soft solid suspension compositions were prepared
using materials listed at the beginning of Example 2. Also used
was
[0214] 10) Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G from Henkel/Cognis)
[0215] The procedure was as follows:
[0216] A solution of the structurant(s) in the organic liquid(s)
was made by mixing these materials, heating and agitating the
mixture at a temperature sufficiently high that the structurant(s)
dissolve. The mixture was then allowed to cool to 80-85.degree. C.
before the aluminium antiperspirant active was added. The mixture
was then allowed to cool to 5-20.degree. C. above its gelling
temperature (determined in a preliminary experiment) and introduced
into dispensing containers for soft solids. These were then left to
cool to room temperature.
[0217] Hardness was determined by texture analyser as described
earlier. Deposits on black fabric were made, and their whiteness
determined, by the procedures given earlier.
[0218] The formulations and the measurement results are given in
the following table:
5 Parts by weight Formulation No 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 K19 5 5 3 3 12-HSA
(7) -- 5 3 3 Cyclomethicone (1) 34.25 31.75 33.75 32.75
Octyldodecanol (10) 34.25 31.75 33.75 32.75 AZAG 7167 (6) 26.5 26.5
26.5 26.5 Evaluation Hardness (N/mm.sup.2) 0.018 0.079 0.033 0.081
Whiteness measurement 13 17 18 16 (1 h) Whiteness measurement 11 13
13 13 (24 h)
* * * * *