U.S. patent application number 09/866731 was filed with the patent office on 2002-01-10 for mascara comprising a mixture of hard waxes and of film-forming polymer.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'Oreal S.A.. Invention is credited to Bodelin-Lecomte, Sophie, Debert, Daniele, Piot, Bertrand.
Application Number | 20020004036 09/866731 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 27253401 |
Filed Date | 2002-01-10 |
United States Patent
Application |
20020004036 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Piot, Bertrand ; et
al. |
January 10, 2002 |
Mascara comprising a mixture of hard waxes and of film-forming
polymer
Abstract
A mascara composition for curling and thickening eyelashes
comprising: a waxes-in-water emulsion of at least one mixture of
hard waxes (I), the mixture of waxes (I) containing at least one
wax having a melting point ranging from 77.degree. C. to
110.degree. C., the mixture of waxes (I) is present in a content of
at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition, and the mixture of waxes (I) is in the form of
particles of at least 1 .mu.m in size, and at least 0.1% by weight
of a polymer system containing at least one film-forming polymer,
where the polymer system is capable of forming a film which
produces, at a concentration of 7% in water, a greater than 1%
retraction of isolated stratum corneum at 30.degree. C. and under a
relative humidity of 40%.
Inventors: |
Piot, Bertrand; (La Garenne
Colombes, FR) ; Debert, Daniele; (Savigny sur Orge,
FR) ; Bodelin-Lecomte, Sophie; (Vanves, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
FINNEGAN, HENDERSON, FARABOW, GARRETT &
DUNNER LLP
1300 I STREET, NW
WASHINGTON
DC
20005
US
|
Assignee: |
L'Oreal S.A.
|
Family ID: |
27253401 |
Appl. No.: |
09/866731 |
Filed: |
May 30, 2001 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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09866731 |
May 30, 2001 |
|
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09217991 |
Dec 22, 1998 |
|
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60135117 |
Aug 31, 1998 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.7 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/31 20130101; A61K
8/731 20130101; A61Q 1/10 20130101; A61K 8/645 20130101; A61K 8/927
20130101; A61K 8/736 20130101; A61K 8/85 20130101; A61K 8/922
20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/70.7 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/06 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Dec 31, 1997 |
FR |
97 16806 |
Claims
We claim:
1. A method of curling and/or thickening keratin fibers comprising
the step of applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount for
said curling and/or thickening of a mascara composition comprising:
(i) a wax-in-water emulsion of at least one wax having a needle
penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5 and a melting point ranging from
70.degree. C. to 110.degree. C., wherein said at least one wax is
present in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of said composition, and further wherein said at least
one wax is in the form of particles greater than or equal to at
least 1 .mu.m in size and (ii) at least 0.1% by weight, relative to
the total weight of said composition, of a polymer system
containing at least one film-forming polymer, wherein said polymer
system is capable of forming a film which produces, at a
concentration of 7% in water, a greater than 1% retraction of
isolated stratum corneum at 30.degree. C. and under a relative
humidity of 40%.
2. A method according to claim 1, wherein said keratin fibers are
eyelashes.
3. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one wax is
selected from waxes of animal origin, waxes of plant origin, waxes
of mineral origin, synthetic waxes and waxes of natural origin.
4. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at leat one wax is
selected from rice bran wax, carnauba wax, ouricurry wax,
candelilla wax, montan waxes, sugar cane waxes, and polyethylene
waxes.
5. A method according to claim 1, where at least one wax having
said needle penetration has a melting point of at least 77.degree.
and less than 83.degree. C.
6. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one wax is
rice bran wax.
7. A method according to claim 1, wherein at least one wax having
said needle penetration has a melting point ranging from 83.degree.
C. to 110.degree. C.
8. A method according to claim 7, wherein said at least one wax
having a melting point ranging from 83.degree. C. to 110.degree. C.
is selected from ouricurry wax, carnauba wax and montan waxes.
9. A method according to claim 8, wherein said at least one wax
having a melting point ranging from 83.degree. C. to 110.degree. C.
is carnauba wax.
10. A method according to claim 1, wherein said wax-in-water
emulsion comprises: at least one first wax having said needle
penetration and a melting point of at least 77.degree. C. and less
than 83.degree. C.; and at least on second wax having said needle
penetration and a melting point ranging from 83.degree. C. to
110.degree. C., and wherein said first wax is present in an amount
ranging from 35% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of
said at least one first wax and said at least one second wax, and
said second wax is present in an amount ranging from 35% to 65% by
weight, relative to the total weight of said at least one first wax
and said at least one second wax.
11. A method according to claim 10, wherein said wax-in-water
emulsion comprises at least one third wax having said needle
penetration and a melting point ranging from 70.degree. C. to less
than 77.degree. C.
12. A method according to claim 1, wherein said wax-in-water
emulsion further comprises at least one wax having said needle
penetration and a melting point ranging from 70.degree. C. to less
than 77.degree. C.
13. A method according to claim 12, wherein said at least one wax
having a melting point ranging from 70.degree. C. to less than
77.degree. C. is candelilla wax.
14. A method according to claim 12, wherein said at least one wax
having a melting point ranging from 70.degree. C. to less than
77.degree. C. is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 20% by
weight, relative to the total weight of said waxes.
15. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one wax is
present in an amount of at least 15% by weight relative to the
total weight of the mascara composition.
16. A method according to claim 1, wherein said particles of said
at least one wax are at least 1.5 .mu.m in size.
17. A method according to claim 11, wherein said first, second, and
third waxes are present in a weight ratio to the total weight of
wax of: said first wax 0.35:1 to 0.5:1, said second wax 0.35:1 to
0.5:1, said third wax 0.05:1 to 0.2:1.
18. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is selected from polymers of plant origin,
polymers of animal origin, radical polymers and
polycondensates.
19. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is a water-soluble or water-dispersible
polymer.
20. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is selected from proteins, protein
hydrolysates, chitin and its derivatives, shellac resin, sandarac
gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins, cellulose
derivatives, polycondensates and radical synthetic polymers.
21. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is selected from proteins, protein
hydrolysates, chitin and its derivatives, polyesters-polyurethanes,
and sulphopolyesters.
22. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least on
film-forming polymer is selected from hydroxypropylchitosan and
wheat protein hydrolysate.
23. A method according to claim 22, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is wheat protein hydrolysate.
24. A method according to claim 1, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is selected from polyester-polyurethanes and
sulphopolyesters.
25. A method according to claim 1, wherein said wax-in-water
emulsion further comprises at least one wax having a melting point
of at least 50.degree. C. and less than 70.degree. C. and a needle
penetration of greater than 7.5.
26. A method according to claim 1, wherein said wax-in-water
emulsion further comprises at least one wax having a melting point
of at least 50.degree. C. and less than 70.degree. C. and a needle
penetration of greater than 7.5 and less than or equal to 217.
27. A method according to claim 25, wherein the weight ratio of
said at least one wax having a needle penetration ranging from 1 to
7.5. and said melting point ranges from 77.degree. C. to
110.degree. C. to said at least one wax having a melting point of
at least 50.degree. C. and less than 70.degree. C. and a needle
penetration of greater than 7.5 ranges from 2:1 to 5:1.
28. A method according to claim 27, wherein said ratio ranges from
2.5:1 to 3.5:1.
29. A method according to claim 1, wherein said mascara composition
further comprises at least one thickener.
30. A method according to claim 1, wherein said mascara composition
further comprises at least one silicone surfactant having an HLB
ranging from 8 to 16.
31. A method according to claim 30, wherein said at least one
silicone surfactant is dimethicone copolyol.
32. A method according to claim 1, wherein said mascara composition
further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable
additive.
33. A mascara composition comprising: (i) a waxes-in-water emulsion
of a mixture of waxes having a needle penetration ranging from 1 to
7.5 and a melting point ranging from 70.degree. C. to 110.degree.
C., wherein said mixture of waxes comprises at least one first wax
having said needle penetration and a melting point of at least
77.degree. C. and less than 83.degree. C., at least one second wax
having said needle penetration and a melting point ranging from
83.degree. C. to 110.degree. C., and at least one third wax having
said needle penetration and a melting point of at least 70.degree.
C. and less than 77.degree. C., wherein said mixture of waxes is
present in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of said composition, and said mixture of waxes is in
the form of particles of at least 1.0 .mu.m in size, and (ii) at
least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said
composition, of a polymer system containing at least one
film-forming polymer, wherein said polymer system is capable of
forming a film which produces, at a concentration of 7% in water, a
greater than 1% retraction of isolated stratum corneum at
30.degree. C. and under a relative humidity of 40%.
34. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said at least one
first wax is rice bran wax.
35. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said at least one
second wax is selected from carnauba wax, ouricurry wax, and montan
waxes.
36. A composition according to claim 35, wherein said at least one
second wax is carnauba wax.
37. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said at least one
third wax is candelilla wax,
38. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said mixture of
waxes comprises at least 15% by weight, relative to the total
weight of said composition.
39. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said first,
second, and third waxes are present in a weight ratio to the total
weight of wax of: said first wax 0.35:1 to 0.5:1, said second wax
0.35:1 to 0.5:1, said third wax 0.05:1 to 0.2:1.
40. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said first,
second, and third waxes are particles of at least 1.5 .mu.m in
size.
41. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is selected from polymers of plant origin,
polymers of animal origin, radical polymers and
polycondensates.
42. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is a water-soluble or water-dispersible
polymer.
43. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is selected from proteins, protein
hydrolysates, chitin and its derivatives, shellac resin, sandarac
gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins, cellulose
derivatives, polycondensates and radical synthetic polymers.
44. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is selected from proteins, protein
hydrolysates, chitin and its derivatives, polyesters-polyurethanes,
and sulphopolyesters.
45. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said at least one
film-forming polymer is selected from hydroxypropylchitosan and
wheat protein hydrolysate.
46. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said water-soluble
polymer is wheat protein hydrolysate.
47. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said
polycondensates are selected from polyester-polyurethanes and
sulphopolyesters.
48. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said wax-in -water
emulsion further comprises at least one wax having a melting point
of at least 50.degree. C. and less than 70.degree. C. and a needle
penetration of greater than 7.5.
49. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said wax-in -water
emulsion further comprises at least one wax having a melting point
of at least 50.degree. C. and less than 70.degree. C. and a needle
penetration of greater than 7.5 and less than or equal to 217.
50. A composition according to claim 33, wherein the weight ratio
of said at least one first wax, at least one second wax, and at
least one third wax to said at least one wax having a melting point
of at least 50.degree. C. and less than 70.degree. C. and a needle
penetration of greater than 7.5 ranges from 2:1 to 5:1.
51. A composition according to claim 60, wherein said ratio ranges
from 2.5:1 to 3.5:1.
52. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said mascara
composition further comprises at least one thickener.
53. A composition according to claim 33, wherein said mascara
composition comprises at least one silicone surfactant having an
HLB ranging from 8 to 16.
54. A composition according to claim 53, wherein said at least one
silicone surfactant is a dimethicone copolyol.
55. A mascara product comprising a reservo8ir containing a mascara
composition according to claim 33, and a system for applying said
composition to keratin fibers.
56. A process for making up keratin fibers comprising the step of
applying an effective amount of at least one mascara composition
according to claim 33 to said keratin fibers.
57. A process according to claim 56, wherein said keratin fibers
are eyelashes.
58. A method of curling and/or thickening keratin fibers comprising
the step of applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount for
said curling and/or thickening of a mascara composition comprising:
(i) a waxes-in-water emulsion of at least one wax having a needle
penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5 and a melting point ranging from
70.degree. C. to 110.degree. C., and at least one wax having a
needle penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5 and a melting point
ranging from 70.degree. C. to less than 77.degree. C., wherein said
mixture of said mixture of said waxes is present in an amount of at
least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said
composition, and said mixture of waxes (I) is in the form of
particles of at least 1.5 .mu.m in size, and further wherein said
waxes in said mixture are in the form of particles greater than or
equal to at least 1 .mu.m in size, and (ii) at least 0.1% by
weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, of a
polymer system containing at least one film-forming polymer,
wherein said polymer system is capable of forming a film which
produces, at a concentration of 7% in water, a greater than 1%
retraction of isolated stratum corneum at 30.degree. C. and under a
relative humidity of 40%.
Description
[0001] This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional
Application No. 60/______ filed Aug. 31, 1998, which was converted
from U.S. Non-provisional application 09/144,279.
[0002] The present invention relates to the use of a mascara
composition, comprising a mixture of waxes and of film-forming
polymer, for curling and thickening keratin fibers, in particular
the eyelashes or the tips of the hair. The invention also relates
to a mascara composition comprising a mixture of waxes and a
film-forming polymer.
[0003] It is common practice to make mascara compositions
containing at least one wax. However, this wax is never used alone,
since the make-up effect using such compositions proves to be very
mediocre, leading to formation of a non-uniform film on the
eyelashes, which is reflected in the formation of films that crack
immediately after drying.
[0004] It is also known, according to patent applications WO
96/36323 and WO 96/33690, to combine a wax and a film-forming
polymer in a mascara composition. However, such a combination does
not curl the eyelashes well, nor does it give the eyelashes a thick
make-up effect.
[0005] European patent applications EP-A-557,196 and EP-A-639,371
have also proposed mascara compositions containing microdispersions
of waxes combined with film-forming polymers. However, such
compositions do not allow a thick make-up effect to be obtained on
the eyelashes: such mascaras are thus low-loading.
[0006] The aim of the invention is to propose a cosmetic
composition which allows improved curling of the eyelashes and
eyelashes loaded with make-up product to be obtained. The aim of
the invention is also to propose a composition which gives the
eyelashes instantaneous, long-lasting curling and which constitutes
a make-up product that is well-tolerated by individuals with
sensitive eyes.
[0007] The inventors have now found, surprisingly, that such a
make-up product for the eyelashes can be obtained by using a
combination of waxes and of specific film-forming polymers.
[0008] Thus, one subject of the invention is the use of a mascara
composition for curling and thickening keratin fibers, in
particular the eyelashes, comprising:
[0009] (i) a waxes-in-water emulsion of at least one mixture of
waxes (I), referred to as hard waxes, having a needle penetration
ranging from 1 to 7.5 and a melting point ranging from 70.degree.
C. to 110.degree. C., the mixture of waxes (I) containing at least
one wax (Ia, Ib) having a melting point ranging from 77.degree. C.
to 110.degree. C., the mixture of waxes (I) being present in a
content of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition, the at least one wax being present in the form of
particles greater than or equal to at least 1 .mu.m in size,
optionally further comprising at least one wax having a melting
point ranging from 70.degree. C. to less than 77.degree. C. and
having a needle penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5 and being in the
form of particles greater than or equal to at least 1 .mu.m in
size,
[0010] (ii) at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition, of a polymer system containing a film-forming
polymer, the polymer system being capable of forming a film which
produces, at a concentration of 7% in water, a greater than 1%
retraction of isolated stratum corneum at 30.degree. C. and under a
relative humidity of 40%.
[0011] Another subject of the invention is a method of curling
and/or thickening keratin fibers comprising the step of applying to
the keratin fibers and effective amount for the curling and/or
thickening of a mascara composition comprising:
[0012] (i) a waxes-in-water emulsion of a mixture of at least one
wax having a needle penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5 and a melting
point ranging from 77.degree. C. to 110.degree. C., and at least
one wax having a needle penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5 and a
melting point ranging from 70.degree. C. to less than 77.degree.
C., wherein the mixture is present in an amount of at least 10% by
weightr relative to the total weight of said composition, and
further wherein the waxes in the mixture are in the form of
particle greater than or equal to at leat 1 .mu.m in size, and
[0013] (ii) at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition, of a polymer system containing at least one
film-forming polymer, wherein the polymer system is capable of
forming a film which produces, at a concentration of 7% in water, a
greater than 1% retraction of isolated stratum corneum at
30.degree. C. and under a relative humidity of 40%.
[0014] Another subject of the invention is a mascara composition
comprising:
[0015] (i) a waxes-in-water emulsion of at least one mixture of
waxes (I), referred to as hard waxes, having a needle penetration
ranging from 1 to 7.5 and a melting point ranging from 70.degree.
C. to 110.degree. C., the mixture of waxes (I) containing at least
a first wax (Ia) having a melting point greater than or equal to
77.degree. C. and less than 83.degree. C., a second wax (Ib) having
a melting point ranging from 83.degree. C. to 110.degree. C., and a
third wax (Ic) having a melting point greater than or equal to
70.degree. C. and less than 77.degree. C., the mixture of waxes (I)
being present in a content of at least 10% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition, the mixture of waxes (I) being
in the form of particles greater than or equal to at least 1 .mu.m
in size,
[0016] (ii) at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition, of a polymer system containing a film-forming
polymer, the said polymer system being capable of forming a film
which produces, at a concentration of 7% in water, a greater than
1% retraction of isolated stratum corneum at 30.degree. C. and
under a relative humidity of 40%.
[0017] Another subject of the invention is a mascara product
comprising a reservoir containing a mascara composition as defined
above, and equipped with a system for applying the composition to
keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes.
[0018] Another subject of the invention is a process for making up
keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes, which involves
applying a composition as defined above to the keratin fibers.
[0019] According to the invention, the waxes are in the form of
particles preferably having a size greater than or equal to 1.5
.mu.m, in particular ranging from 1.5 to 10 .mu.m, and better still
ranging from 1.5 .mu.m to 3.5 .mu.m.
[0020] The term hard wax (or wax (I)) is understood to refer to a
wax having a melting point ranging from 70.degree. C. to
110.degree. C. and a needle penetration ranging from 1 to 7.5. The
needle penetration of waxes is determined according to French
standard NF T 60-123 or US standard ASTM D 1321, at a temperature
of 25.degree. C. According to these standards, the needle
penetration is a measurement of the depth, expressed in tenths of a
millimetre, to which a standardized needle weighing 2.5 g, located
in a movable mounting weighing 97.5 g and placed on the wax to be
tested, for 5 seconds, penetrates into the wax.
[0021] The waxes (I) used in accordance with the invention can be
selected from waxes of animal origin, waxes of plant origin, waxes
of mineral origin, synthetic waxes and the various fractions of
waxes of natural origin, all of these waxes having the two
characteristics (needle penetration, melting point) mentioned
above.
[0022] The waxes (I) can be selected in particular from rice bran
wax, carnauba wax, ouricurry wax, candelilla wax, montan waxes,
sugar cane waxes, and certain polyethylene waxes which satisfy the
criteria for the waxes (I).
[0023] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention
can comprise an amount of the mixture of waxes (I) preferably
ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition, more preferably from 13% to 25% and better still
at least 15%, and especially from 15% to 20%.
[0024] The mixture of waxes (I) can comprise at least a first wax
(Ia) having a melting point of greater than or equal to 77.degree.
C. and less than 83.degree. C. Such a wax can be, for example, rice
bran wax.
[0025] The mixture of waxes (I) can also comprise at least a second
wax (Ib) having a melting point ranging from 83.degree. C. to
110.degree. C. This second wax (Ib) can be used alone in the
mixture of waxes (I) or can be combined with the wax (Ia). Such a
wax (Ib) can be, for example, carnauba wax, ouricurry wax or montan
waxes. Carnauba wax is preferably used.
[0026] The mixture of waxes (I) can also comprise a third wax (Ic)
having a melting point of greater than or equal to 70.degree. C.
and less than 77.degree. C. Such a wax can be, for example,
candelilla wax.
[0027] For the use according to the invention, the mascara
composition preferably comprises a mixture of waxes (I) containing
at least a first wax (Ia) and at least a second wax (Ib) as defined
above.
[0028] The mixture of waxes (I) can comprise from 35% to 65% by
weight of wax (Ia), relative to the total weight of the mixture of
waxes (I), and from 65% to 35% by weight of wax (Ib).
[0029] Preferably, the mixture of waxes (i) can comprise, in
addition to the first and second waxes (la, Ib), a third wax (Ic)
as defined above. This third wax is preferably present in the
composition in a content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the mixture of waxes (I).
[0030] Advantageously, the first, second and third waxes (la, Ib,
Ic) can be present in the composition in a weight ratio
(weight/total weight of waxes 1) ranging, respectively, from:
[0031] wax (Ia): 0.35 to 0.5,
[0032] wax (Ib): 0.35 to 0.5,
[0033] wax (c): 0.05 to 0.2.
[0034] For the use according to the invention, the composition
comprises, in addition to the mixture of wax (I), at least one
polymer system capable of forming a film which produces, at a
concentration of 7% in water, preferably a greater than 1%, more
preferably greater than 1.2% and better still greater than 1.5%,
retraction of isolated stratum corneum, at 30.degree. C. and under
a relative humidity of 40%. Such polymers give very good curling of
the eyelashes.
[0035] Method for measuring retraction
[0036] The principle consists in measuring, before and after
treatment, the length of a test sample of isolated stratum corneum
and in determining the percentage of retraction of the test
sample.
[0037] 1 cm.times.0.4 cm test samples of stratum corneum ranging
from 10 to 20 .mu.m in thickness, arranged on an MTT 610
extensiometer sold by the company Diastron, are used.
[0038] The test sample is placed between 2 jaws and then left for
12 hours in an atmosphere at 30.degree. C. and 40% relative
humidity.
[0039] The test sample is stretched, at a speed of 2 mm/minute, to
an elongation of between 5 and 10% of the initial length in order
to determine the length I.sub.1 at which the test sample begins to
exert a force on the jaws which is detected by the machine.
[0040] The test sample is then relaxed and 2 mg of an aqueous
composition containing 7% by weight of polymer is applied to the
stratum corneum. After total evaporation of the composition, the
test sample is stretched under the same conditions as those
described above in order also to determine the length I.sub.1 for
the treated test sample.
[0041] The percentage of retraction is determined by the equation:
100.times.(I.sub.1-I.sub.2)/I.sub.1.
[0042] The term "polymer system" is understood to refer either to a
polymer alone or to a polymer combined with at least one other
polymer or to a polymer combined with at least one plasticizer, so
as to obtain the desired mechanical properties.
[0043] The expression "capable of forming a film" is understood to
refer to a polymer system which allows a film to be formed: when it
is spread on glass, the polymer system must dry without
cracking.
[0044] The film-forming polymer of the polymer system according to
the invention can be a polymer of natural origin or a synthetic
polymer. The film-forming polymer can especially be a water-soluble
or water-dispersible polymer.
[0045] The expression polymer of natural origin is understood to
refer to polymers of plant origin and of animal origin.
[0046] As polymers of plant origin, mention may be made in
particular of proteins and protein hydrolysates, and more
particularly extracts of cereals, of leguminous plants and of
oleaginous plants, such as extracts of wheat, of corn, of rye, of
Triticum aestivum wheat, of buckwheat, of sesame, of Triticum
spelta, of pea, of bean, of lentil, of soybean and of lupin.
[0047] As polymer of animal origin, use may be made of polymers
obtained from the carapace of insects or crustaceans. Mention may
be made, for example, of chitin and its derivatives, in particular
chitosan which is a deacetyl derivative of chitin, as well as
chitosan derivatives such as hydroxypropylchitosan, the succinyl
derivative of chitosan, chitosan lactate, chitosan glutamate and
carboxymethyl chitosan succinamide.
[0048] The polymers of natural origin, which are optionally
modified, can be selected for example from shellac resin, sandarac
gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins and cellulose
derivatives.
[0049] As suitable water-soluble polymers of natural origin,
mention may be made of the hydroxypropylchitosan sold under the
name "HPCH powder" by the company Ichimaru Pharcos and the wheat
protein hydrolysate sold under the name "Tritisol" by the company
Croda (having a molecular weight of about 250,000 daltons).
[0050] The synthetic polymers can be of polycondensate type or of
radical type.
[0051] As polycondensates, mention may be made of anionic,
cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes,
polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones,
polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes,
polyurea-urethanes, polyureas, sulphopolyesters (which are
described in particular in patents U.S. Pat. No. 3,734,874, U.S.
Pat. No. 4,233,196 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,304,901, the disclosures of
which are specifically incorporated by reference herein) and
mixtures thereof.
[0052] As radical polymers, mention may be made of acrylic
polymers, acrylic/styrene copolymers and vinyl copolymers such as
vinyl ester copolymers.
[0053] As suitable synthetic polymer, mention may be made in
particular of the polyester-polyurethane dispersions sold under the
names "SANCURE 2060" (polyester-polyurethane), "SANCURE 815"
(polyester-polyurethane) or alternatively sulphopolyesters based on
isophthalate/sulphoisophthalate, and more particularly the
sulphopolyesters obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol,
cyclohexanedi-methanol, isophthalic acid and sulphoisophthalic
acid, in particular those sold under the name AQ55S by the company
Eastman.
[0054] When the film-forming polymer does not by itself allow a
film having the characteristics mentioned above to be obtained, it
is possible to add a compound whose function is to modify the
properties of the film-forming polymer in order to obtain the
desired polymer system. Thus, according to one embodiment of the
composition according to the invention, the said polymer system can
comprise at least one film-formation auxiliary agent which makes it
possible to obtain a film having the characteristics as described
above. The film-formation auxiliary agent makes it possible in
particular to obtain a film which allows good curling of the
eyelashes to be obtained. In this case, the polymer system
comprises a mixture of one or more film-forming polymers and at
least one film-formation auxiliary agent.
[0055] Such a film-formation auxiliary agent can be selected from
any compound known to those skilled in the art as being capable of
fulfilling the desired function, and can be selected in particular
from plasticizers. In addition, when the polymer system according
to the invention comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of
particles of film-forming polymer, the film-formation auxiliary
agent can also be selected from coalescence agents. This auxiliary
agent can be water-soluble or water-insoluble and can optionally be
in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
[0056] In particular, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture,
of the common plasticizers or coalescence agents, such as:
[0057] glycols and their derivatives, such as diethylene glycol
ethyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol
butyl ether, diethylene glycol hexyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl
ether, ethylene glycol butyl ether or ethylene glycol hexyl
ether;
[0058] glycerol esters,
[0059] propylene glycol derivatives and in particular propylene
glycol phenyl ether, propylene glycol diacetate, dipropylene glycol
butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether, propylene glycol
methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene glycol
methyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether and propylene glycol
butyl ether,
[0060] acid esters, in particular carboxylic acid esters, such as
citrates, phthalates, adipates, carbonates, tartrates, phosphates
and sebacates,
[0061] oxyethylenated derivatives such as oxyethylenated oils, in
particular plant oils such as castor oil; silicone oils,
[0062] water-soluble polymers having a low glass transition
temperature, of less than 25.degree. C., preferably less than
15.degree. C.
[0063] The amount of film-formation auxiliary agent can be selected
by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his or her general
knowledge, so as to obtain a polymer system which leads to a film
having the desired mechanical properties, while at the same time
retaining acceptable cosmetic properties for the composition.
[0064] The composition can preferably comprise from 0.1% to 10% by
weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 7%, of film-forming polymer
solids relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0065] The polymer system used (polymer(s) or polymer and
plasticizer) according to the invention can be present in
particular in an active material (A.M.) amount preferably ranging
from 0.1 to 15%, and better still from 0.3 to 10%, of the total
weight of the composition.
[0066] In addition, the composition for the use according to the
invention can comprise at least one wax (II), referred to as soft
wax, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 50.degree.
C. and less than 70.degree. C., and a needle penetration of greater
than 7.5, and preferably less than or equal to 217, measured
according to the conditions defined above for the waxes (I). This
wax (II) makes it possible in particular to impart flexibility to
the make-up applied to the eyelashes.
[0067] These waxes (II) can be selected in particular from beeswax,
lanolin waxes, paraffin waxes, ceresin waxes, microcrystalline
waxes, ozocerites, spermacetis, certain polyethylene waxes with a
molecular weight such that they satisfy the criteria of the waxes
(II), and hydrogenated plant oils.
[0068] Among the hydrogenated plant oils, mention may be made of
hydrogenated jojoba waxes and hydrogenated oils which are obtained
by catalytic hydrogenation of fatty substances composed of a linear
or non-linear C.sub.8-C.sub.32 fatty chain and which have the
qualities corresponding to the definition of waxes. Mention may be
made in particular of hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated
castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin.
[0069] Advantageously, the waxes (I) and the waxes (II) are present
in the composition in a waxes (I)/wax (II) weight ratio which can
range preferably from 2 to 5 and more preferably from 2.5 to
3.5.
[0070] The composition for the use according to the invention can
contain emulsifying surfactants present in a proportion preferably
ranging from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition, and better still from 5% to 20%. These surfactants can
be selected from anionic or nonionic surfactants. Reference may be
made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology,
Kirk-Othmer", Volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for
the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifying) of
surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference which is
hereby specifically incorporated by reference, for the anionic and
nonionic surfactants.
[0071] The surfactants preferably used in the compositions
according to the invention are:
[0072] among the nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols,
polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as
polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohols, fatty acid esters
of sucrose, alkylglucose esters, in particular polyoxyethylenated
fatty esters of (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkylglucose,
[0073] among the anionic surfactants: C.sub.16-C.sub.30 fatty acids
neutralized with amines, ammonia or alkaline salts.
[0074] Surfactants which allow an oil-in-water emulsion to be
obtained are preferably used.
[0075] In the composition according to the invention, the water can
advantageously represent from 30 to 80% by weight of the total
weight of the composition.
[0076] In addition, the composition can comprise at least one
thickener, preferably of hydrophilic nature. This can be selected,
for example, from carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic
copolymers such as acrylate/alkylacrylate copolymers,
polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays.
[0077] The composition can advantageously comprise a silicone
surfactant having an HLB ranging from 8 to 16. Preferably, such a
surfactant is a dimethicone copolyol. When the composition
according to the invention is applied to the eyelashes, the
silicone surfactant allows better staying power over time and
better resistance to the mechanical stresses of the composition
thus applied.
[0078] The dimethicone copolyols can be selected from the compounds
of the general formula (I): 1
[0079] in which formula:
[0080] R.sub.1 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or
branched C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical,
[0081] R.sub.2 independently represent
-(C.sub.xH.sub.2x)-(OC.sub.2H.sub.4-
).sub.a-(OC.sub.3H.sub.6).sub.b--OR.sub.3,
[0082] R.sub.3 are independently selected from a hydrogen atom, a
linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms
and a linear or branched acyl radical having from 2 to 12 carbon
atoms,
[0083] n ranges from 0 to 1000,
[0084] p ranges from 1 to 30,
[0085] a ranges from 0 to 50,
[0086] b ranges from 0 to 50,
[0087] a+b is greater than or equal to 1,
[0088] x ranges from 1 to 5,
[0089] the number-average molecular weight is greater than or equal
to 15,000 and preferably ranges from 25,000 to 75,000.
[0090] Preferably, oxyalkylenated silicones of general formula (I)
which satisfy at least one, and more preferably all, of the
conditions below are used:
[0091] R.sub.1 denotes a methyl radical,
[0092] R.sub.3 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an
acetyl radical, and preferably hydrogen,
[0093] p ranges from 8 to 20,
[0094] a ranges from 5 to 40 and preferably from 15 to 30,
[0095] b ranges from 5 to 40 and preferably from 15 to 30,
[0096] x is equal to 2 or 3,
[0097] n ranges from 20 to 600, preferably from 50 to 500 and even
more particularly from 100 to 300.
[0098] Such silicones are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No.
4,311,695 which is hereby specifically incorporated by
reference.
[0099] Dimethicone copolyols were presented in particular by the
company Dow Coming during the 17th international congress of the
I.F.S.C.C. of October 1992 and reported in the article
"Water-soluble dimethicone copolyol waxes for personal care
industry" by Linda Madore et al., pages 1 to 3, the disclosure of
which is hereby specifically incorporated by reference.
[0100] These dimethicone copolyols are water-soluble
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing one or more ether functions
(oxyalkylene, in particular oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene). Such
dimethicone copolyols are sold in particular by the company
Goldschmidt under the name ABIL B8851 or ABIL B88183. Mention may
also be made of the compounds KF 351 to 354 and KF 615 A sold by
the company Shin Etsu or DMC 6038 from the company Wacker.
[0101] The dimethicone copolyol derivatives which can be used may
be, in particular, dimethicone copolyols containing a phosphate,
sulphate, myristamide propyldimethylammonium chloride, stearate,
amine, glycomodified, etc. group. The compounds sold by the company
Siltech under the name SILPHOS A100, SILTECH AMINE 65, SILWAX WDIS
and myristamido silicone quat, or by the company Phoenix under the
name PECOSIL PS 100, can be used in particular as dimethicone
copolyol derivatives.
[0102] The derivatives sold by the company Wacker under the name VP
1661, or by the company Dow Corning under the name 2501 cosmetic
wax, can also be used.
[0103] The silicones most particularly preferred are, for example,
those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade name Q2-5220
and by the company Rhne Poulenc under the name MIRASIL DMCO.
[0104] The composition according to the invention can also contain
ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, trace
elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, oils,
silicones and cohesion agents, as well as the acidifying or
basifying agents usually used in the cosmetics field, fillers,
pigments and emollients, usually used in amounts ranging from 1 to
10%; preserving agents.
[0105] The composition according to the invention is intended for a
mascara product comprising a reservoir, containing the said mascara
composition, and a system for applying the said composition to
keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes. The reservoir is
equipped, in a known manner, with an opening in which is housed a
draining system. The application system contains a stem which is
fitted, at a first end, with a brush, and, at a second end, with a
stopper intended to close the reservoir. Such packaging is
illustrated in particular in FIG. 7 of patent application
EP-A-611,170 the disclosure of which is specifically incorporated
herein by reference.
[0106] The invention is illustrated in greater detail, but in no
way limited by, the examples which follow.
EXAMPLE 1
[0107] A mascara having the following composition was prepared:
1 rice bran wax 7 g carnauba wax 7 g candelilla wax 2.8 g
triethanolamine stearate 8.4 g beeswax 6 g wheat protein
hydrolysate sold under 0.31 g AM the name "TRITISOL" by the company
Croda hydroxyethylcellulose 1.5 g pigments 8 g preserving agents qs
water qs 100 g
[0108] The waxes, the surfactant and the preserving agents were
melted and mixed together at 90.degree. C. The pigments were
dispersed in the molten mixture at 90.degree. C. The TRITISOL and
the hydroxyethylcellulose were dissolved in the cold water. The
aqueous phase was then heated to 90.degree. C. and poured into the
molten mixture with stirring, while maintaining the temperature at
about 90.degree. C. until the mixture was homogeneous. Next, the
composition was cooled to room temperature.
[0109] A mascara in the form of a waxes-in-water dispersion in
which the wax particles are greater than 1.5 .mu.m in size was thus
obtained.
[0110] By applying the mascara to the eyelashes, it was found that
they curled very well and were well laden with make-up: the
eyelashes have a good thickness of make-up.
EXAMPLE 2
[0111] A mascara having the following composition was prepared:
2 rice bran wax 10 g carnauba wax 8 g candelilla wax 1 g
triethanolamine stearate 9 g beeswax 4 g wheat protein hydrolysate
sold under the 0.4 g AM name "TRITISOL" by the company Croda
hydroxyethylcellulose 1.5 g pigments 5 g preserving agents qs water
qs 100 g dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "Q2-5520" by the
company Dow Corning 0.3 g
[0112] A mascara which imparts good curding to the eyelashes after
it has been applied was thus obtained. The make-up applied to the
eyelashes was thick and had good staying power over time.
EXAMPLE 3
[0113] A mascara having the following composition was prepared:
3 rice bran wax 8 g carnauba wax 8 g paraffin wax 2 g
triethanolamine stearate 9 g beeswax 3 g copolymer of
diglycol/cyclohexanedimethanol/ 1 g
isophthalates/sulphoisophthalates sold under the name "EASTMAN
AQ-55S" by the company Eastman hydroxyethylcellulose 1.2 g pigments
7 g preserving agents qs water qs 100 g
[0114] After applying this mascara to the eyelashes, good curling
of the eyelashes was found, as well as a thick make-up applied to
the eyelashes.
EXAMPLE 4
[0115] (invention):
[0116] A mascara having the following composition was prepared:
4 carnauba wax 20.1 g polyoxyethylenated (30 EO) glyceryl 6.71 g
monostearate (TAGAT S from the company Goldschmidt)
hydroxyethylcellulose (Cellosize QP4400M 1 g from the company
Amerchol) gum arabic 1.5 g panthenol 1 g pigment 5 g sodium
hydroxide qs pH 7 preserving agent qs water qs 100 g
EXAMPLE 5
[0117] (comparative)
[0118] A wax microdispersion, as described in patent application
EP-A-557,196, having the following composition was prepared:
5 carnauba wax 22.5 g TAGAT S 7.5 g preserving agent qs water qs
100 g
[0119] The wax microdispersion has an average wax particle size of
283 nm.
[0120] Next, a mascara having the composition below was prepared,
using the wax microdispersion:
6 wax microdispersion 89.5 g hydroxyethylcellulose (CELLOSIZE
QP4400M 1 g from the company Amerchol) gum arabic 1.5 g panthenol 1
g pigment 5 g sodium hydroxide qs pH 7 preserving agent qs water qs
100 g
[0121] Eyelashes were made up using the compositions of Examples 4
and 5 and the make-up results obtained were compared: it was found
that only the eyelashes made up with the composition of Example 4
(invention) had a thick and curling make-up effect.
EXAMPLES 6 to 9:
[0122] 3 mascaras according to the invention (Examples 6 to 8) and
a mascara not forming part of the invention (Example 9) having the
following composition were prepared:
7 Example 9 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 (outside the (invention)
(invention) (invention) invention) carnauba wax 20.1 g 8.375 g
8.375 g 9 g beeswax -- -- -- 11.1 g rice bran wax -- 8.375 g 8.375
g -- candelilla wax -- 3.35 g 3.35 9 -- stearic acid 4.65 g 4.65 g
4.65 g 4.65 g triethanolamine 2.05 g 2.05 g 2.05 g 2.05 g water qs
100 g qs 100 g qs 100 g qs 100 g preserving agent 0.3 g 0.3 g 0.3 g
0.3 g black iron oxide 5 g 5 g 5 g 5 g hydroxyethylcellulose 1 g 1
g 0.7 g 1 g (Cellosize QP4400M from Amerchol) gum arabic 1.5 g 1.5
g 1.5 g 1.5 g Tritisol wheat protein -- -- 0.3 g AM -- hydrolysate
panthenol 1 g 1 g 1 g 1 g TOTAL 100 g 100 g 100 g 100 g
[0123] Eyelashes were made up using the compositions of Examples 6
to 9 and the make-up results obtained were compared: it was found
that the eyelashes made up with the compositions of Examples 6 to 8
(invention) had a thicker and more curling make-up effect than that
obtained with the composition of Example 9 (which does not form
part of the invention).
* * * * *