U.S. patent application number 09/837063 was filed with the patent office on 2002-01-03 for cosmetic skin conditioning compositions containing high performing retinyl esters.
This patent application is currently assigned to Unilever Home. Invention is credited to Barratt, Marieann, DeFlorio, Victor, Granger, Stewart Paton, Iobst, Susanne Teklits, Kosturko, Richard John, Scott, Ian Richard.
Application Number | 20020001603 09/837063 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 22731716 |
Filed Date | 2002-01-03 |
United States Patent
Application |
20020001603 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Granger, Stewart Paton ; et
al. |
January 3, 2002 |
Cosmetic skin conditioning compositions containing high performing
retinyl esters
Abstract
Cosmetic skin care compositions containing a high performing
retinyl ester which is an ester of retinol with C.sub.18,
unsaturated, non-essential, cis-6 and/or cis-12 fatty acid. The
ester is preferably selected from the group consisting of
gamma-retinyl linolenate, retinyl petroselinate, and retinyl
cis-12-octadecenoate.
Inventors: |
Granger, Stewart Paton;
(Sharnbrook Bedford, GB) ; Iobst, Susanne Teklits;
(Maywood, NJ) ; Barratt, Marieann; (Oak Ridge,
NJ) ; Kosturko, Richard John; (Nutley, NJ) ;
DeFlorio, Victor; (Cranford, NJ) ; Scott, Ian
Richard; (Allendale, NJ) |
Correspondence
Address: |
UNILEVER
PATENT DEPARTMENT
45 RIVER ROAD
EDGEWATER
NJ
07020
US
|
Assignee: |
Unilever Home
|
Family ID: |
22731716 |
Appl. No.: |
09/837063 |
Filed: |
April 18, 2001 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
60198030 |
Apr 18, 2000 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/401 ;
514/552 |
Current CPC
Class: |
Y10S 514/828 20130101;
A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61Q 19/007 20130101; Y10S 514/844 20130101;
A61Q 19/004 20130101; A61Q 19/08 20130101; A61K 8/671 20130101;
Y10S 514/847 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/401 ;
514/552 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/00; A61K
031/23 |
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A skin conditioning composition comprising: (a) from about
0.0001% to about 10% wt. % of a retinyl ester which is an ester of
retinol with C.sub.18, unsaturated, non-essential, cis-6 and/or
cis-12 fatty acid; and (b) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the retinyl ester is
selected from the group consisting of gamma-retinyl linolenate,
retinyl petroselinate, and retinyl cis-12-octadecenoate.
3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the ester is gamma-retinyl
linoleate.
4. The composition of claim 2, wherein the ester is retinyl
petroselinate.
5. The composition of claim 2 wherein the ester is retinyl
cis-12-octadecenoate.
6. A cosmetic method of improving the appearance of wrinkled,
lined, dry, flaky, aged or photodamaged skin and improving skin
thickness, elasticity, flexibility and plumpness, the method
comprising applying to the skin the composition of claim 1.
7. A cosmetic method of increasing procollagen I production by
fibroblasts, the method comprising applying to the skin the
composition of claim 1.
8. A cosmetic method of increasing CRABP-2 level in epidermis, the
method comprising applying to the skin the composition of claim 1.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] Cosmetic methods and compositions for conditioning human
skin by topical application to the skin of cosmetic compositions
containing selected retinyl esters.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Cosmetic products which improve the appearance of skin are
increasingly popular with consumers. These products aim to
alleviate or delay the signs of aged or photoaged skin, such as
fine lines and wrinkles, dry and sagging skin. Although the
marketplace offers a variety of products, cosmetic manufacturers
continue the quest for alternative actives, in order to provide a
consumer with a choice of products.
[0003] A number of retinyl esters are disclosed in prior art. See
for example U.S. Pat. No. 5,723,139; U.S. Pat. No. 5,885,595; WO
94/09756; EP 0 512 814; U.S. Pat. No. 5,723,139; EP 0710 478; U.S.
Pat. No. 5,037,850; U.S. Pat. No. 4,992,265; U.S. Pat. No.
5,605,933.
[0004] The art cited above does not disclose cosmetic compositions
containing retinyl esters included in the present invention.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0005] The present invention includes a skin conditioning
composition comprising:
[0006] (a) from 0.0001% to 10% wt. % of a a retinyl ester which is
an ester of retinol with C.sub.18, unsaturated, non-essential,
cis-6 and/or cis-12 fatty acid;
[0007] (b) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
[0008] The present invention also includes a cosmetic method of
improving or preventing the condition of wrinkled, lined, dry,
flaky, aged or photodamaged skin and improving skin thickness,
elasticity, flexibility, radiance, glow and plumpness, which method
includes applying to the skin the inventive composition.
Compositions of the invention are intended for topical application
to mammalian skin which is already dry, flaky, lined, wrinkled,
aged, photodamaged, or the inventive compositions may be applied
prophylactically to normal healthy skin to prevent or reduce the
deteriorative changes.
[0009] The following detailed description and the examples
illustrate some of the effects of the inventive compositions. The
invention and the claims, however, are broader than the problems
solved and are not limited thereto.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0010] Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where
otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description
indicating amounts or ratios of material or conditions of reaction,
physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as
modified by the word "about." All amounts are by weight of the
final composition, unless otherwise specified.
[0011] The term "skin" as used herein includes the skin on the
face, neck, chest, back, arms, legs, hands and scalp.
[0012] For the avoidance of doubt the word "comprising" is intended
to mean "including" but not necessarily "consisting of" or
"composed of". In other words, the listed steps or options need not
be exhaustive.
[0013] The retinyl esters included in the present invention area
collectively termed herein as "high performing retinyl esters" or
"HPRE". The HPRE included in the present invention are selected to
optimize the beneficial effects on skin. It has been found that
esters of C18 fatty acids perform better than retinyl palmitate (a
C16 retinyl ester extensively used in commercial cosmetic
compositions). According to the present invention, retinyl esters
should preferably hydrolyze on the skin and the products of the
hydrolysis (retinol and a fatty acid) penetrate into the skin, to
provide benefits of retinol and the fatty acid. Hence, the present
invention includes esters of unsaturated fatty acids, molecules
that are liquid at body temperature and thus can penetrate more
easily into the layers of the skin than saturated fatty acids,
which are solids at body temperature. The HPRE are esters of
non-essential fatty acids, to maximize their availabilty to skin
cells (i.e. minimizing the biological competion that arises from
the supplementation of essential fatty acids). The cis-6 and or
cis-12 acids are selected to maximize the beneficial effect on the
skin, while avoiding the potential irritating retinol effect on the
skin (the cis-6 and/or cis-12 fatty acids tend to have an
anti-irritant activity).
[0014] The preferred retinyl ester suitable for the inclusion in
the inventive composition is selected from the group consisting of
gamma-retinyl linolenate, retinyl petroselinate and retinyl
cis-12-octadecenoate. The HPRE are included in the inventive
compositions in an amount of 0.0001% to 10%, preferably from 0.01%
to 1% more preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% and most preferably from
0.05% to 0.3%. The HPRE maybe prepared by methods well known for
making esters of retinyl and as described in example 1. The most
preferred HPRE to be included in the inventive compositions is
retinyl petroselinate as it offers the benefit of the other HPRE at
lower cost. The preferred HPRE included in the present invention
have the following structures: 1
Cosmetically Acceptable Vehicle
[0015] The composition according to the invention also comprises a
cosmetically acceptable vehicle to act as a dilutant, dispersant or
carrier for the HPRE in the composition, so as to facilitate their
distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.
[0016] Vehicles other than or in addition to water can include
liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and
powders. An especially preferred nonaqueous carrier is a
polydimethyl siloxane and/or a polydimethyl phenyl siloxane.
Silicones of this invention may be those with viscosities ranging
anywhere from about 10 to 10,000,000 mm.sup.2/s (centistokes) at
25.degree. C. Especially desirable are mixtures of low and high
viscosity silicones. These silicones are available from the General
Electric Company under trademarks Vicasil, SE and SF and from the
Dow Corning Company under the 200 and 550 Series. Amounts of
silicone which can be utilized in the compositions of this
invention range anywhere from 5% to 95%, preferably from 25% to 90%
by weight of the composition.
[0017] The cosmetically acceptable vehicle will usually form from
5% to 99.9%, preferably from 25% to 80% by weight of the
composition, and can, in the absence of other cosmetic adjuncts,
form the balance of the composition. Preferably, the vehicle is at
least 80 wt. % water, by weight of the vehicle. Preferably, the
amount of water is at least 50 wt. % of the inventive composition,
most preferably from 60 to 80 wt. %, by weight of the composition.
The preferred compositions are oil-in-water emulsions, containing
at least 60%, preferably at least 80% water.
Optional Skin Benefit Materials and Cosmetic Adjuncts
[0018] The inventive compositions preferably include sunscreens to
further lower skin's exposure to harmful UV rays.
[0019] Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to
block ultraviolet light. Illustrative compounds are the derivatives
of PABA, cinnamate and derivatives of salicylate. For example,
octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy4-methoxy benzophenone (also
known as oxybenzone) can be used. Octyl methoxycinnamate and
2-hydroxy4-methoxy benzophenone are commercially available under
the trademarks, Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3, respectively. The
exact amount of sunscreen employed in the emulsions can vary
depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV
radiation.
[0020] An oil or oily material may be present, together with an
emollient to provide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an
oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average
hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the emollient employed.
Levels of such emollients may range from about 0.5% to about 50%,
preferably between about 5% and 30% by weight of the total
composition. Emollients may be classified under such general
chemical categories as esters, fatty acids and alcohols, polyols
and hydrocarbons.
[0021] Esters may be mono- or di-esters. Acceptable examples of
fatty di-esters include dibutyl adipate, diethyl sebacate,
diisopropyl dimerate, and dioctyl succinate. Acceptable branched
chain fatty esters include 2-ethyl-hexyl myristate, isopropyl
stearate and isostearyl palmitate. Acceptable tribasic acid esters
include triisopropyl trilinoleate and trilauryl citrate. Acceptable
straight chain fatty esters include lauryl palmitate, myristyl
lactate, oleyl eurcate and stearyl oleate. Preferred esters include
coco-caprylate/caprate (a blend of coco-caprylate and
coco-caprate), propylene glycol myristyl ether acetate, diisopropyl
adipate and cetyl octanoate.
[0022] Suitable fatty alcohols and acids include those compounds
having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Especially preferred are such
compounds such as cetyl, myristyl, palmitic and stearyl alcohols
and acids.
[0023] Among the polyols which may serve as emollients are linear
and branched chain alkyl polyhydroxyl compounds. For example,
propylene glycol, sorbitol and glycerin are preferred. Also useful
may be polymeric polyols such as poly-propylene glycol and
polyethylene glycol. Butylene and propylene glycol are also
especially preferred as penetration enhancers.
[0024] Exemplary hydrocarbons which may serve as emollients are
those having hydrocarbon chains anywhere from 12 to 30 carbon
atoms. Specific examples include mineral oil, petroleum jelly,
squalene and isoparaffins.
[0025] Another category of functional ingredients within the
cosmetic compositions of the present invention are thickeners. A
thickener will usually be present in amounts anywhere from 0.1 to
20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to 10% by weight of the
composition. Exemplary thickeners are cross-linked polyacrylate
materials available under the trademark Carbopol from the B.F.
Goodrich Company. Gums may be employed such as xanthan,
carrageenan, gelatin, karaya, pectin and locust beans gum. Under
certain circumstances the thickening function may be accomplished
by a material also serving as a silicone or emollient. For
instance, silicone gums in excess of 10 centistokes and esters such
as glycerol stearate have dual functionality.
[0026] Powders may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition of
the invention. These powders include chalk, talc, kaolin, starch,
smectite clays, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate,
organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum
silicate, fumed silica, aluminum starch octenyl succinate and
mixtures thereof.
[0027] Other adjunct minor components may also be incorporated into
the cosmetic compositions. These ingredients may include coloring
agents, opacifiers and perfumes. Amounts of these other adjunct
minor components may range anywhere from 0.001% up to 20% by weight
of the composition.
Product Use, Form, and Packaging
[0028] In use, a small quantity of the composition, for example
from 1 to 100 ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a
suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, it is then
spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand or fingers
or a suitable device.
[0029] The cosmetic skin conditioning composition of the invention
can be formulated as a lotion, a cream or a gel. The composition
can be packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and
intended use by the consumer. For example, a lotion or cream can be
packaged in a bottle or a roll-ball applicator, or a
propellant-driven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump
suitable for finger operation. When the composition is a cream, it
can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze
container, such as a tube or a lidded jar. The composition may also
be included in capsules such as those described in U.S. Pat. No.
5,063,507 (silicone-based anhydrous composition within a gelatine
capsule), incorporated by reference herein. The invention
accordingly also provides a closed container containing a
cosmetically acceptable composition as herein defined.
[0030] The following specific examples further illustrate the
invention, but the invention is not limited thereto.
Example 1
[0031] This example illustrates synthesis of the HPRE included in
the inventive compositions.
General Procedure for Synthesis of Retinyl Esters
[0032] Into a clean, dry three necked ambered flask charge 1.0
equivalents of retinol, 1.0 equivalents of fatty acid and 100 mls
of hexane. Equip flask with a stir bar, thermometer, addition
funnel and nitrogen bubbler. Cool contents of the flask to
.about.5.degree. C. under a nitrogen blanket before adding 0.01
equivalents of 4-dimethylaminopyridine. Warm the reaction mixture
to 10-15.degree. C. before adding a solution of 1.0 equivalents of
dicyclohexylcarbodiimide in 15-20 mis of hexane dropwise through
the addition funnel over thirty minutes. After the addition is
complete, stir the reaction at 15-20.degree. C. for four hours.
[0033] Cool the reaction mixture to 5-10.degree. C. before
filtering under vacuum to remove the dicyclohexylurea byproduct.
Extract the filtrate with water, once with sodium bicarbonate
solution, again with water, once with 0.1N hydrochloric acid
solution and three times with water. Isolate the organic layer, dry
over magnesium sulfate, filter and concentrate.
Synthesis of Retinyl Petroselinate
[0034] Into a clean, dry three necked ambered flask were charged
2.0 g (7.1 mmoles) of retinol, 2.0 g (7.1 mmoles) of petroselinic
acid and 100 mis of hexane. The flask was equipped with a stir bar,
thermometer and addition funnel. The contents of the flask were
cooled to .about.5.degree. C., before 8mg (0.07 mmoles) of
4-dimethylaminopyridine were added. The reaction mixture was warmed
to 10-15.degree. C. before a solution of 1.4 g (7.1 moles) of
dicyclohexylcarbodiimide, in 15-20 mls of hexane, were added slowly
through the addition funnel over thirty minutes. After the addition
was complete, the reaction stirred at 15-20.degree. C. for four
hours.
[0035] The reaction mixture was cooled to 5-10.degree. C. before
being filtered under vacuum to remove the dicyclohexylurea
byproduct. The filtrate was extracted with water, once with sodium
bicarbonate solution, again with water, once with 0.1N hydrochloric
acid solution and three times with water. The organic layer was
isolated, dried over magnesium sulfate, filtered and concentrated
to give 2.3 g of a viscous orange oil. The crude product was
purified on a silica gel column using 95/5 hexane/ether as the
mobile phase.
[0036] .sup.1H NMR (200 MHz, CDCl.sub.3 with TMS) ppm:
--CH.sub.2CO.sub.2-- (4.7, d, 2H) IR: 1753 cm.sup.-1 (carbonyl
ester)
Synthesis of Retinyl-cis-6,9,12-Octadecatrienoate (gamma
linolenate)
[0037] The ester was synthesized using the above general procedure
with 3.0 g of cis-6,9,12-octadecatrienoic acid (gamma
linolenic).
[0038] 4.5 of orange oil were recovered prior to purification by
silica gel chromatography.
[0039] .sup.1H NMR (200 MHz, CDCl.sub.3 with TMS) ppm:
--CH.sub.2CO.sub.2-- (4.7, d, 2H) IR: 1740 cm.sup.-1 (carbonyl
ester)
Synthesis of Retinyl-cis12-Octadecenoate
[0040] The ester was synthesized using the above general procedure
with 1.0 g of cis-12-octadecenoic acid.
[0041] 1.3 g of orange oil were recovered prior to purification by
silica gel chromatography.
[0042] .sup.1H NMR (200 MHz, CDCl.sub.3 with TMS) ppm:
--CH.sub.2CO.sub.2-- (4.6, d, 2H) IR: 1746 cm.sup.-1 (carbonyl
ester)
Example 2
[0043] The activity of various retinyl esters was tested in
Procollagen I assay and CRABP-2 assay.
Procollagen I Assay
[0044] Collagen is a predominant skin protein. Its synthesis
decreases with aging or photodamage. The degradation or destruction
of collagen increases the tensile strength of the skin causing
wrinkles and laxity. Many studies involving human subjects have
shown that collagen type I is decreased with increasing severity of
photodamage (See Kligman, A., JAMA, (1969), 210, pp. 2377-2380;
Lavker, R., J. Inv Derm., (1979), 73, 79-66; Smith J. et al., J.
Inv. Derm., (1962), 39, pp. 347-350; and Shuster, S. et al., Br. J.
Dermatol., (1975), 93, pp. 639-643); and some correlation in the
histology of wrinkles and reduction in collagen levels in the
sun-exposed skin has been reported. See Chen, S.; Kiss, I., J. Inv.
Derm., (1992), 98. pp. 248-254. Voorhees and colleagues have
supported these findings by showing the restoration of collagen
type I in photo-damaged human skin by a topical treatment with
tretinoin. See Christopher, E., et al., The New Eng. Jou. of
Medicine (1993), 329, pp. 530-535. Procollagen I is a precursor of
collagen. Increased production of procollagen I in response to a
test compound application is a marker of an increased collagen
level.
[0045] Seed passage 3 (P3) fibroblasts in 6-well tissue culture
treated dishes at a density of .about.10,000 cells/well.
[0046] Culture cells until .about.70% confluent in high glucose
Dulbecco's Modified Eagles Medium (DMEM).
[0047] When cells are .about.70% confluent, replace with fresh
medium, dose with actives and continue culturing until cells are
100% confluent.
[0048] Remove media and store at 4.degree. C.
[0049] Dilute 20 .mu.l conditioned (treated) media in 200 .mu.l
unconditioned DMEM.
[0050] Soak nitrocellulose membrane and 3 sheets of filter paper in
1.times.TBS (tris buffered saline, pH=7.3).
[0051] Set up Bio-Rad slot blot apparatus with filter paper on
bottom, nitrocellulose membrane on top. Add 100 .mu.l TBS/well.
Vacuum dry.
[0052] Remove membrane from apparatus and place in blocking
solution (5% milk powder in phosphate buffered saline (PBS)) for 1
hr at room temperature or overnight at 4.degree. C.
[0053] Primary antibody-Remove membrane from blocking solution and
incubate for 1.5 hours at room temperature or overnight at
4.degree. C. with 1.5 ml rat anti-human procollagen amino-terminal
antibody (Chemicon MAB1912) 1:100 in TBS with 0.1% bovine serum
albumin (BSA).
[0054] Remove membrane, was 3.times.(10 minutes/wash) in TBS/0.1%
tween 20.
[0055] Secondary antibody-incubate for 1 hour at room temperature
or overnight at 4.degree. C. in 2 ml 1:1000 biotinylated anti-rat
peroxidase conjugated antibody (Vector Labs).
[0056] Remove membrane from secondary antibody and was 3.times.(10
minutes/wash) in TBS/0.1% tween 20.
[0057] Preincubate 3 ml PBS with 30 .mu.l each of solutions A and B
from Vectastain kit for 30 minutes.
[0058] Place membrane in biotin/avidin solution (A and B from
above) for 30 minutes in a sealed plastic bag on an orbital
shaker.
[0059] Wash twice (15 minutes each wash) in TBS/0.1% Tween 20.
[0060] Stain membrane using AEC solution (12.5 mg 3-amino 9-ethyl
carbazole, 3.125 ml dimethyl formamide, 21.5 ml 0.2M NaOAc buffer
(23 ml acetic acid/qs to 2 liters with deionozed water-adjust pH to
5.2 with NaOH) and 12.5 .mu.l H.sub.2O.sub.2.)
[0061] Stain until color develops. Stop reaction by rinsing with
tap water.
[0062] Scan using a laser densitometer and quantified as % over
control (with control at 100%).
CRABP-2 Assay
[0063] Within the cells, retinol and retinoic acid are bound to
specific cellular binding proteins. Two of the major proteins are
CRABP-1 and CRABP-2 (Roos et al., Pharmacological reviews: 50,
315-333, 1998). These proteins regulate the intracellular
concentration of retinoids by acting as either storage or shuttle
proteins in retinoid metabolism. The levels of CRABP protein are
regulated by the amount of retinoic acid within the cells. Higher
cellular levels of retinoids increase the expression of CRABP-2.
Therefore, the amount of this protein in the cells is a measure of
the retinoid activity of the cells. Skin cells contain high levels
of CRABP-2 both in the epidermis and the dermis. CRABP-2 response
to retinoid administration in is used as a reproducible measure of
retinoid bioactivity that predict human skin responses (Elder et
al., J. Invest. Dermatol., 106: 517-521, 1996). Increase in CRABP-2
is also associated with increased epidermal differentiation, and
dermal retinoid action. Therefore, in these studies we used CRABP-2
expression of pig skin epidermis as a measure of retinoid activity
leading to increased epidermal differentiation (skin conditioning
and dry skin benefit) and dermal collagen and extracellular matrix
synthesis (antiaging, anti wrinkling benefits).
[0064] Pig skin was received , scrubbed with Vionex detergent, and
dermatomed at a thickness of 0.058 cm and allowed to wash in
preliminary medium on a shaker for an hour with three solution
changes.
[0065] 7 mm punches were taken and allowed to sit in final medium
overnight. The next day, the medium was refreshed with final medium
1 mL per well. One day later, the plates received fresh final
medium,and topically dosed with 5 .mu.l of the active(s) in an
ethanol vehicle.
[0066] After four days, the biopsies will be removed from the
plates, washed with PBS in a concial tube, and frozen at
-80.degree. C. for future use.
[0067] After thawing, the epidermis was separated and boiled in
urea and sample buffer, after which protein quantitation was
possible.
[0068] 16% 15 lane acrylamide gels were loaded ewith the
appropriate samples and run until all the proteins were separated
based upon their molecular weight.
[0069] The gels were transferred onto PVDF membranes at 25 constant
Volts for 2.5 hours
[0070] The membranes were blocked with 5% milk in TBST (Tween
0.05%) for one hour at room temperature
[0071] Primary Ab exposure 1:1,000 in 1% milk TBS soln for one
hour, followed by six washes with TBST over a period of one
hour.
[0072] Secondary antibody exposure (anti-mouse - AP) at a dilution
of 1:2,000 in 1% milk TBS one hour at room temp on shaker, followed
by six washes with TBST over a period of one hour.
[0073] The membrane was drip-dried, and placed protein side up on a
heat-sealable bag. The chemiluminescent reagent was applied and
incubated at room temp for 5 minutes.
[0074] The bag was then heat sealed and incubated at 37.degree. C.
for 15 minutes, after which the membrane was exposed to x-ray film
for band resolution.
[0075] The bands in the film were quantified by densitometric
scanning, the data from triplicate samples were calculated as % of
control and expressed in the following tables as % increase over
control (with control as 100%).
[0076] The results that were obtained are summarized in Tables 1
and 2.
1TABLE 1 Procollagen assay % over Compound Concentration control p
over control Experiment 1 Gamma-retinyl linolenate 10.sup.-5 M 225
**p < 0.05 Retinyl petroselinate 10.sup.-4 M 110 **p < 0.05
Experiment 2 Retinyl cis-12- 10.sup.-6 M 28 **p < 0.05
Octadecenoate Experiment 3 Retinyl Palmitate 10.sup.-7 M 24 (not
significant)
[0077]
2TABLE 2 CRABP-2 assay % over Compound Concentration control p over
control Gamma-retinyl linolenate 1.sup.-4 M 882 **p < 0.05
Retinyl Petroseitnate 10.sup.-3 M 522 **p < 0.05 Retinyl cis-12-
10.sup.-4 M 993 **p < 0.05 Octadecenoate Retinyl Palmitate
10.sup.-3 M 444 (not significant)
[0078] It can be seen from Tables 1 and 2 that HPRE included in the
present invention were more efficacious in both assays than retinyl
palmitate.
EXAMPLE 3
[0079] Example 3 illustrates topical compositions according to the
present invention. The compositions can be processed in
conventional manner. They are suitable for cosmetic use. In
particular the compositions are suitable for application to
wrinkled, rough, flaky, aged and/or UV-damaged skin and/or oily
skin to improve the appearance and the feel thereof as well as for
application to healthy skin to prevent or retard deterioration
thereof.
3 INGREDIENT % w/w OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION DI Water 73.40 Carbomer
0.30 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Glycerin 3.00 Polysorbate 20 2.50 Butylene
Glycol 2.00 Methylparaben 0.30 Triethanolamine 99% 0.30 Retinyl
petroselinate 8.00 Isopropyl Myristate 5.00 Octyl Palmitate 3.00
Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 Dimethicone, 100 cst 0.50 Beeswax 0.30
Propylparaben 0.10 Germall II 0.10 Fragrance 0.10 Total ---->
100.00 OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION DI Water 71.20 Xanthan Gum 0.20
Disodium EDTA 0.10 Glycerin 5.00 Butylene Glycol 2.00 Methylparaben
0.30 Gamma-retinyl linoleate 8.00 Isopropyl Myristate 5.00 Octyl
Palmitate 3.00 Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 Dimethicone, 100 cst 0.50
Steareth-2 0.40 Steareth-2 1 3.00 Propylparaben 0.10 Germall II
0.10 Fragrance 0.10 Total ----> 100.00 WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION DI
Water 63.30 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Glycerin 3.00 Propylene Glycol 2.00
Sodium Chloride 0.70 Methyl paraben 0.30 Cyclomethicone 14.00 cis-1
2-octadecenoate 5.00 Isopropyl Myristate 5.00 Octyl Palmitate 3.00
Dimethicone Copolyol 2.50 Dimethicone, 100 cst 0.50 Beeswax 0.30
Propylparaben 0.10 Germall II 0.10 Fragrance 0.10 Total ---->
100.00 HYDRO-GEL DI Water 82.85 Butylene Glycol 5.00 PPG-5-Ceteth
20 5.00 Glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 1.20 Triethanolamine 99% 1.20
retinyl petroselinate 1.00 Methylparaben 0.30 Polysorbate 20 0.25
Disodium EDTA 0.10 Germall II 0.10 Total ----> 100.00 ANHYDROUS
SERUM Cyclomethicone 72.40 Gamma-retinyl linoleate 5.00 isopropyl
Myristate 5.00 Octyl Palmitate 3.00 Polyglycerol-6 Dioleate 5.00
Butylene Glycol 4.00 Dimethicone, 100 cst 5.00 Beeswax 0.30
Propylparaben 0.20 Fragrance 0.10 Total ----> 100.00
HYDRO-ALCOHOLIC GEL DI Water 52.85 Alcohol SDA40B 30.00 Butylene
Glycol 5.00 PPG-5-Ceteth 20 5.00 Glycerin 3.00 carbomer 1.20
Triethanolamine 99% 1.20 Cis-12-octadecendate 1.00 Methylparaben
0.30 Polysorbate 20 0.25 Disodium EDTA 0.10 German II 0.10 Total
----> 100.00
[0080] It should be understood that the specific forms of the
invention herein illustrated and described are intended to be
representative only. Changes, including but not limited to those
suggested in this specification, may be made in the illustrated
embodiments without departing from the clear teachings of the
disclosure. Accordingly, reference should be made to the following
appended claims in determining the full scope of the invention.
* * * * *