U.S. patent application number 09/888015 was filed with the patent office on 2001-11-29 for use of cinnamic acid or of its derivatives in a cosmetic firming composition.
Invention is credited to Breton, Lionel, Girerd, Florence, Renault, Beatrice.
Application Number | 20010046509 09/888015 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 9514857 |
Filed Date | 2001-11-29 |
United States Patent
Application |
20010046509 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Breton, Lionel ; et
al. |
November 29, 2001 |
Use of cinnamic acid or of its derivatives in a cosmetic firming
composition
Abstract
The invention relates to the use of cinnamic acid, or of at
least one of its derivatives, in a cosmetic composition as a
firming agent for the skin and/or mucous membranes. The invention
also relates to a firming composition comprising cinnamic acid or
at least one of its derivatives.
Inventors: |
Breton, Lionel; (Versailles,
FR) ; Girerd, Florence; (Paris, FR) ; Renault,
Beatrice; (Saint Maurice, FR) |
Correspondence
Address: |
Norman H. Stepno
BURNS, DOANE, SWECKER & MATHIS, L.L.P.
P.O. Box 1404
Alexandria
VA
22313-1404
US
|
Family ID: |
9514857 |
Appl. No.: |
09/888015 |
Filed: |
June 25, 2001 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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09888015 |
Jun 25, 2001 |
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09216862 |
Dec 21, 1998 |
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6267971 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/401 ;
514/570 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/36 20130101; Y10S
514/969 20130101; Y10S 514/846 20130101; A61Q 1/14 20130101; A61K
8/37 20130101; A61Q 19/08 20130101; A61P 17/00 20180101; A61K 8/492
20130101; A61K 8/9794 20170801; A61K 8/676 20130101; A61K 8/9789
20170801 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/401 ;
514/570 |
International
Class: |
A61K 007/00; A61K
031/192 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Dec 19, 1997 |
FR |
97-16180 |
Claims
1. Use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount of
cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the cinnamic
acid or the composition being intended to reduce the signs of
ageing on the skin.
2. Use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount of
cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the cinnamic
acid or the composition being intended to stimulate the firming of
the skin and/or mucous membranes.
3. Use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount of
cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the cinnamic
acid or the composition being intended to promote smoothing of the
skin and/or to tighten the skin.
4. Use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount of
cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the cinnamic
acid or the composition being intended to stimulate collagen
synthesis.
5. Use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount of
cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the cinnamic
acid or the composition being intended to combat the effects of the
menopause on collagen.
6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the composition is used in topical application on the skin
and/or mucous membranes.
7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the cinnamic acid derivatives are chosen from mono- and
polyhydroxycinnamic acids, alcohols, aldehydes, esters and
derivatives.
8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the cinnamic acid or one of its derivatives is present in
an amount ranging from 10.sup.-6% to 10% of the total weight of the
composition.
9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the cinnamic acid or one of its derivatives is present in
an amount ranging from 10.sup.-3 to 5% of the total weight of the
composition.
10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the cinnamic acid or one of its derivatives is combined
with another product which stimulates collagen synthesis.
11. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the
other product which stimulates collagen synthesis is chosen from
plant hormones and/or vitamin C or its derivatives.
12. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the
plant hormone is an auxin.
13. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the
auxin is chosen from 3-indoleacetic acid (IAA),
4-chloro-3-indoleacetic acid (4-Cl-IAA), phenylacetic acid (PAA),
3-indolebutyric acid (IBA), 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D),
.alpha.-naphthaleneacetic acid (.alpha.-NAA),
.beta.-naphthoxyacetic acid, indolethanol, indoleacetaldehyde and
indoleacetonitrile.
14. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the
auxin is .beta.-naphthoxyacetic acid.
15. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the cinnamic acid or one of its derivatives is combined
with another product which stimulates lipid synthesis.
16. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the
product which stimulates lipid synthesis is a plant hormone as
defined in claims 12 to 14.
17. Use according to any one of claims 10 to 16, characterized in
that the other product which stimulates collagen and/or lipid
synthesis is in an amount of between 10.sup.-6% and 10%, and
preferably between 10.sup.-3% and 5%, of the total weight of the
composition.
18. Cosmetic firming composition comprising, in a cosmetically
acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of cinnamic acid or
of at least one of its derivatives.
19. Cosmetic composition for smoothing the skin comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of
cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives.
20. Cosmetic composition for tightening the skin comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium, at least an effective amount of
cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives.
21. Cosmetic composition for combating the effects of the menopause
on the skin, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at
least an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at least one of
its derivatives.
22. Cosmetic composition for combating the effects of the menopause
on collagen, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at
least an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at least one of
its derivatives.
23. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable
medium, at least an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at
least one of its derivatives and at least one other product which
stimulates collagen synthesis.
24. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that the product which stimulates collagen synthesis is chosen from
plant hormones and vitamin C and its derivatives.
25. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable
medium, at least an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at
least one of its derivatives and a compound which stimulates lipid
synthesis.
26. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in
that the compound which stimulates lipid synthesis is a plant
hormone.
Description
[0001] The invention relates to the use of cinnamic acid, or of at
least one of its derivatives, in a cosmetic firming composition. In
particular, the compositions of the invention are intended to
stimulate the restructuring of the skin and/or mucous membranes by
stimulating the synthesis of collagen.
[0002] The invention also relates to a firming composition
comprising cinnamic acid or at least one of its derivatives.
[0003] Human skin consists of two compartments, i.e. a superficial
compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.
[0004] Natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of
cells: the keratinocytes, which form the great majority, the
melanocytes and the Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types
contributes, by virtue of its intrinsic functions, towards the
essential role played in the body by the skin.
[0005] The dermis gives the epidermis a solid support. It is also
the epidermis' nourishing factor. It consists mainly of fibroblasts
and of an extracellular matrix composed mainly of collagen, elastin
and a substance known as ground substance, these components being
synthesized by the fibroblasts. Leukocytes, mastocytes and tissue
macrophages are also found therein. It is also composed of blood
vessels and nerve fibres. In normal skin, i.e. skin which is not
pathological or scarred, the fibroblasts are in the quiescent
state, i.e. non-proliferative, of low metabolic activity and
immobile.
[0006] The collagen fibres give the dermis solidity. They are very
strong but are sensitive to certain enzymes known as collagenases.
In the dermis, the collagen fibres consist of fibrils sealed
together, thus forming more than ten different types of structures.
The solidity of the dermis is mainly due to the overlapping of the
collagen fibres packed against each other in all directions. The
collagen fibres contribute towards the elasticity and tonicity of
the skin and/or mucous membranes.
[0007] The collagen fibres are constantly renewed, but this renewal
decreases with age, which leads to thinning of the dermis. However,
this thinning of the dermis is also due to pathological causes such
as, for example, the hypersecretion of corticoid hormones, certain
diseases (Marfan's syndrome, Ehlers-Danlos syndrome) or vitamin
deficiencies (scurvy). It is also accepted that extrinsic factors
such as ultraviolet radiation, tobacco or certain treatments
(retinoic acid and derivatives, glucocorticoids, vitamin D and
derivatives, for example) also have an effect on the skin and on
its level of collagen. Degradation of the collagen fibres results
in the appearance of loose, wrinkled skin which people have always
tried to combat, since skin which looks smooth and taut is
preferred.
[0008] Moreover, during the menopause, the main changes relating to
the dermis are a decrease in the level of collagen and in the
thickness of the dermis. In menopausal women, this results in
thinning of the skin and/or mucous membranes. Women thus experience
a sensation of "dry skin" or of skin which feels tight and an
increase in the level of surface wrinkles and fine lines is
observed. The skin looks rough to the touch. Lastly, the skin is
less supple.
[0009] It is demonstrated that women lose 2.1% of their level of
collagen per year after the menopause and that 30% is lost in the
first five years after the menopause.
[0010] The importance of the presence of collagen fibres in the
skin and the importance of maintaining, or even reinforcing, their
presence can thus be appreciated.
[0011] It is thus important to have available products whose
effects are directed towards maintaining the level of collagen in
the skin and maintaining the skin's smooth and taut appearance.
[0012] In this regard, the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly
and unexpectedly, that cinnamic acid or its derivatives have the
property of stimulating the synthesis of collagen.
[0013] Cinnamic acid is present in trans form in the essential oils
of basil or of cinnamon, in Peruvian balsam and in cocoa leaves.
The cis form is present in the oil from Alpinia malacensis.
[0014] In the prior art, cinnamic acid or its derivatives are known
to be used in compositions for preventing bedsores (JP 07 242 558),
as an anti-ultraviolet active agent (U.S. Pat. No. 5,093,109), in
permanent-waving compositions (DE 3,301,515, DE 2,912,477 and EP
22,996), in hair lotions (JP 7,053,401 and JP 3,041,413), in
depigmenting compositions (JP 5,221,845 and JP 1,186,811) and as
antioxidant (EP 664,290).
[0015] To the Applicant's knowledge, the use of cinnamic acid or of
its derivatives to stimulate the synthesis of collagen has never
been described in the prior art.
[0016] The subject of the invention is thus the use, in a cosmetic
composition, of an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at least
one of its derivatives, the composition being intended to stimulate
the synthesis of collagen.
[0017] Thus, according to the invention, the cinnamic acid or its
derivatives can be of natural or synthetic origin. The term natural
origin refers to cinnamic acid, or its derivatives, prepared from
plant material in which they are found in the natural state. The
term synthetic origin refers to cinnamic acid, or its derivatives,
prepared by chemical synthesis or by biotechnology.
[0018] Thus, in the text hereinbelow, the term cinnamic acid is
understood to denote cinnamic acid, or its derivatives, of natural
or synthetic origin, in purified form or any preparation containing
them.
[0019] Among the cinnamic acid derivatives which can be used
according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of
mono- and polyhydroxycinnamic acids, alcohols, aldehydes, esters
and derivatives.
[0020] Cinnamic acid is preferably used according to the
invention.
[0021] Needless to say, it is possible according to the invention
to use cinnamic acid or its derivatives alone or as a mixture.
[0022] In particular, cinnamic acid or the composition containing
it are used, according to the invention, as a topical application
on the skin and/or mucous membranes.
[0023] It has been seen above that collagen is involved in the
solidity of the dermis, thus in the firmness of the skin and/or
mucous membranes.
[0024] Hence, one of the aspects of the invention is thus to
propose the use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount
of cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the
cinnamic acid or the composition being intended to reduce the signs
of ageing on the skin, more particularly to reduce the appearance
of loose and/or wrinkled skin.
[0025] Another aspect of the invention is thus to propose the use,
in a cosmetic composition, of an effective amount of cinnamic acid
or of at least one of its derivatives, the cinnamic acid or the
composition being intended to stimulate the firming of the skin
and/or mucous membranes.
[0026] According to another aspect also, the subject of the
invention is the use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective
amount of cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the
cinnamic acid or the composition being intended to promote
smoothing of the skin and/or to tighten the skin.
[0027] According to yet another aspect, the subject of the
invention is the use, in a cosmetic composition, of an effective
amount of cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives, the
cinnamic acid or the composition being intended to combat the
effects of the menopause on the skin, more particularly the effects
of the menopause on collagen.
[0028] The amount of cinnamic acid which can be used according to
the invention obviously depends on the desired effect and must be
in an amount which is effective for stimulating the synthesis of
collagen.
[0029] For example, the amount of cinnamic acid which can be used
according to the invention can range, for example, from 10.sup.-6%
to 10% and preferably from 10.sup.-3% to 5% of the total weight of
the composition.
[0030] It is possible to use, in the compositions of the invention,
the cinnamic acid in combination with another product which
stimulates collagen synthesis. Among these other products which
stimulate collagen synthesis, mention may be made of plant hormones
or else vitamin C or its derivatives.
[0031] Among the plant hormones, mention may be made of auxins such
as 3-indoleacetic acid (IAA), 4-chloro-3-indoleacetic acid
(4-Cl-IAA), phenylacetic acid (PAA), 3-indolebutyric acid (IBA),
2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D), .alpha.-naphthaleneacetic
acid (.alpha.-NAA), .beta.-naphthoxyacetic acid, indolethanol,
indoleacetaldehyde and indoleacetonitrile.
[0032] .beta.-Naphthoxyacetic acid is preferably used according to
the invention.
[0033] Since the skin is made up of many components other than
collagen, it turns out to be advantageous, when synthesis of the
skin is promoted with cinnamic acid, to simultaneously promote the
synthesis of these other components such as, for example,
lipids.
[0034] Thus, it is possible to use, in the compositions according
to the invention, the cinnamic acid or one of its derivatives in
combination with another product which, for example, stimulates
lipid synthesis.
[0035] In this regard, plant hormones such as auxins, and
particularly .beta.-naphthoxyacetic acid can also be mentioned.
[0036] Thus, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
comprising cinnamic acid or one of its derivatives and at least one
other product which stimulates lipid synthesis.
[0037] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic firming
composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, an
effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at least one of its
derivatives.
[0038] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition
for making the skin smooth or taut, comprising, in a cosmetically
acceptable medium, an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at
least one of its derivatives.
[0039] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition
for stimulating collagen synthesis, comprising, in a cosmetically
acceptable medium, an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of at
least one of its derivatives.
[0040] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition
for combating the effects of the menopause on the skin, comprising,
in a cosmetically acceptable medium, an effective amount of
cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives.
[0041] Lastly, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic
composition for combating the effects of the menopause on collagen,
comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, an effective
amount of cinnamic acid or of at least one of its derivatives.
[0042] The term cosmetically acceptable medium refers to a medium
which is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, the nails and
the hair.
[0043] In addition, a subject of the invention is compositions
comprising, in addition to cinnamic acid or one of its derivatives,
another compound having the property of stimulating collagen
synthesis, such as, in particular, plant hormones (for example
auxins) or vitamin C and its derivatives.
[0044] A subject of the invention is also compositions comprising,
in addition to cinnamic acid or one of its derivatives, a compound
having the property of stimulating lipid synthesis, particularly
synthesis of the skin's total lipids.
[0045] Needless to say, the composition according to the invention
comprises a cosmetically acceptable support and can be in any
pharmaceutical form normally used for topical application, in
particular in the form of an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or oily
solution, an oil-in-water, water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an
aqueous or oily gel, a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product, a
dispersion of oil in an aqueous phase using spherules, it being
possible for these spherules to be polymer nanoparticles such as
nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better still, lipid vesicles of
ionic and/or nonionic type.
[0046] This composition can be more or less fluid and can have the
appearance of a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a
lotion, a serum, a paste or a mousse. It can optionally be applied
to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form
and, for example, in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care
product, as a cleansing product, as a make-up product or as a
simple deodorant product.
[0047] In a known manner, the composition according to the
invention can also contain adjuvants which are common in the
cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or
lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents,
preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers,
screening agents, pigments, chelating agents, odour absorbers and
dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those used
conventionally in the fields considered, and, for example, from
0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on
their nature, these adjuvants can be introduced into the fatty
phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and/or into
the nanoparticles.
[0048] When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the
proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5% to 80% by weight,
and preferably from 5% to 50%, of the total weight of the
composition. The oils, the emulsifiers and the co-emulsifiers used
in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those used
conventionally in the field considered. The emulsifier and the
co-emulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion
ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to
20%, of the total weight of the composition.
[0049] As oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be
made of mineral oils, oils of plant origin (apricot oil, sunflower
oil), oils of animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and
fluoro oils (perfluoropolyethers). Fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol),
fatty acids and waxes (beeswax) can also be used as fatty
substances.
[0050] As emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers which can be used in the
invention, mention may be made, for example, of fatty acid esters
of polyethylene glycol, such as PEG-40 stearate and PEG-100
stearate, and fatty acid esters of polyols, such as glyceryl
stearate and sorbitan tristearate.
[0051] As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in
particular of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers
such as acrylate/alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides,
polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling
agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones,
metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and
polyethylenes.
[0052] The composition can contain other hydrophilic active agents
such as proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols,
urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble
vitamins, plant extracts and hydroxy acids.
[0053] Retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin
E) and its derivatives, essential fatty acids, ceramides, essential
oils and salicylic acid and its derivatives can be used as
lipophilic active agents.
[0054] It is also possible according to the invention to use, in
combination with the cinnamic acid or at least one of its
derivatives, compounds chosen from
[0055] plant hormones;
[0056] antibacterial agents such as macrolides, pyranosides and
tetracyclines, and in particular erythromycin;
[0057] calcium antagonists such as verapamil and diltiazem;
[0058] OH radical scavengers such as dimethyl sulphoxide;
[0059] plant extracts such as those from Iridaceae or from soybean,
these extracts also possibly containing isoflavones;
[0060] extracts from microorganisms including, in particular,
bacterial extracts such as those from non-photosynthetic
filamentous bacteria.
[0061] Other compounds can also be added to the above list, namely,
for example, potassium-channel openers such as diazoxide and
minoxidil, spiroxazone, phospholipids such as lecithin, linoleic
and linolenic acids, salicylic acid and its derivatives described
in French patent FR 2,581,542, such as salicylic acid derivatives
bearing an alkyl group containing from 2 to 12 carbon atoms in
position 5 of the benzene ring, hydroxycarboxylic or ketocarboxylic
acids and their esters, lactones and their corresponding salts,
anthralin, carotenoids, eicosatetraenoic and eicosatrienoic acids
or their esters and amides, and vitamin D and its derivatives.
[0062] According to the invention, it is possible, inter alia, to
combine cinnamic acid with other active agents intended in
particular for preventing and/or treating skin complaints. Among
these active agents, mention may be made, for example of:
[0063] agents which modify skin differentiation and/or
proliferation and/or pigmentation, such as retinoic acid and its
isomers, retinol and its esters, vitamin D and its derivatives,
oestrogens such as oestradiol, kojic acid or hydroquinone;
[0064] agents which modify the adhesion of bacteria to the skin
and/or to mucous membranes, such as honey, in particular acacia
honey and certain sugar derivatives;
[0065] antiparasitic agents, in particular metronidazole,
crotamiton or pyrethroids;
[0066] antifungal agents, in particular compounds belonging to the
imidazole class such as econazole, ketoconazole or miconazole or
their salts, polyene compounds such as amphotericin B, compounds of
the allylamine family such as terbinafine, or octopirox;
[0067] antiviral agents such as acyclovir;
[0068] steroidal anti-inflammatory agents such as hydrocortisone,
betamethasone valerate or clobetasol propionate, or non-steroidal
anti-inflammatory agents such as ibuprofen and its salts,
diclofenac and its salts, acetylsalicylic acid, acetaminophen or
glycyrrhetinic acid;
[0069] anaesthetics such as lidocaine hydrochloride and its
derivatives;
[0070] anti-pruriginous agents such as thenaldine, trimeprazine or
cyproheptadine;
[0071] keratolytic agents such as .alpha.- and
.beta.-hydroxycarboxylic or .beta.-ketocarboxylic acids, their
salts, amides or esters, and more particularly hydroxy acids such
as glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, citric acid and
fruit acids in general, and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid;
[0072] anti-free-radical agents such as .alpha.-tocopherol or its
esters, superoxide dimutases, certain metal-chelating agents or
ascorbic acid and its esters;
[0073] anti-seborrhoeic agents such as progesterone;
[0074] antidandruff agents such as octopirox or zinc
pyrithione;
[0075] anti-acne agents such as retinoic acid or benzoyl
peroxide;
[0076] substances such as antagonists of substance P, of CGRP or of
bradykinin or NO synthase inhibitors, compounds described as being
active in the treatment of sensitive skin and as having
anti-irritant effects, in particular with respect to irritant
compounds which may be present in the compositions.
[0077] Thus, another subject of the invention relates to a
composition comprising an effective amount of cinnamic acid or of
one of its derivatives and at least one agent chosen from
antibacterial agents, antiparasitic agents, antifungal agents,
antiviral agents, anti-inflammatories, anti-pruriginous agents,
anaesthetics, keratolytic agents, anti-free-radical agents,
anti-seborrhoeic agents, antidandruff agents, anti-acne agents,
agents for modifying skin differentiation and/or proliferation
and/or pigmentation, antagonists of substance P, of CGRP or of
bradykinin, or NO synthase inhibitors.
[0078] Moisturizers such as polyols (for example glycerol),
vitamins (for example D-panthenol), anti-inflammatory agents,
calmatives (allantoin, cornflower water), UVA and UVB screening
agents, matt-effect agents (for example the partially crosslinked
polydimethylorganosiloxanes sold under the name KSG.RTM. by Shin
Etsu), and mixtures thereof can be used in particular as active
agents.
[0079] Anti-wrinkle active agents, and in particular tensioning
products such as plant proteins and their hydrolysates, in
particular the soybean protein extract sold under the name
Eleseryl.RTM. by the company LSN or the oat derivative sold under
the name Reductine.RTM. by the company Silab, can also be
added.
[0080] Needless to say, the cinnamic acid or its derivatives can be
used in the preparation of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical
compositions, particularly dermatological compositions, intended to
stimulate collagen synthesis.
[0081] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will
emerge more clearly from the examples which follow, which are given
as non-limiting illustrations. In the text hereinbelow and
hereinabove the proportions are given as a percentage by weight,
except where otherwise indicated.
EXAMPLE 1
Study of the effect of cinnamic acid on collagen synthesis
[0082] The study is carried out by measuring the incorporation of
radioactive proline into normal human dermal fibroblast
cultures.
[0083] The fibroblast cultures are prepared according to the
standard methods of cell culturing, i.e. in MEM/M199 medium sold by
the company Gibco, in the presence of sodium bicarbonate (1.87
mg/ml), L-glutamine (2 mM), penicillin (50 IU/ml) and 10% foetal
calf serum (Gibco).
[0084] The test is carried out on cell cultures at 80% confluence
on 24-well plates. Cinnamic acid, at a concentration of 10.sup.-4M
is placed in contact with the cells for 48 hours. Labelling with
tritiated proline (L-[2,3-.sup.3H]-proline sold by Amersham, 33
.mu.Ci/ml) is carried out for 24 hours. The level of tritiated
proline incorporated is measured at the end of the test by acidic
precipitation of the proteins on filters and counting by liquid
scintillation.
[0085] The results are assessed relative to a control consisting of
cells which have not been treated with cinnamic acid.
[0086] A positive control (20 .mu.g/ml of vitamin C), which is
known to stimulate collagen synthesis, and a negative control
(10.sup.-6M retinoic acid), which is known to inhibit collagen
synthesis, are introduced into the test by way of reference.
[0087] The results of this test are given in the following
table.
1 Treatment cpm % p Untreated cells 19261 100 -- Cinnamic acid
26209 136 <0.01 Retinoic acid 13160 68 <0.01 Vitamin C 40344
209 <0.01 cpm: counts per minute p: confidence interval
calculated according to the Dunett method.
[0088] cpm: counts per minute
[0089] p: confidence interval calculated according to the Dunett
method.
[0090] These results show that cinnamic acid significantly
stimulates the incorporation of proline into collagen and that it
thus has an effect on collagen neosynthesis.
EXAMPLE 2
Examples of compositions according to the invention. These
compositions are obtained by the usual techniques commonly used in
cosmetics or pharmacy
[0091]
2 Composition 1: Care cream Beeswax 1.5% Apricot kernel oil 13.0%
Preserving agents 0.3% Fragrance 0.4% .beta.-Naphthoxyacetic acid
0.01% Cinnamic acid 0.01% Xanthan 0.5% Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane
5.0% Sterilized demineralized water 69.28% Sucrose
mon-di-palmitostearate 3.0% Methylglucose sesquistearate 3.0%
Stearic acid 1.0% Cetyl alcohol 3.0% Composition 2: Body oil Liquid
petroleum jelly 47.98% Apricot kernel oil 6.0% Fragrance 1.0%
.beta.-Naphthoxyacetic acid 0.01% Cinnamic acid 0.01%
Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 45.0% Composition 3: Make-up-removing
milk 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate 10.5% Liquid fraction of karite butter
16.5% Preserving agents 0.3% Fragrance 0.15% .beta.-Naphthoxyacetic
acid 0.01% Cinnamic acid 0.01% Sodium hydroxide 0.04% Carboxyvinyl
polymer 0.2% Sterilized demineralized water 69.79% Mixture of
cetylstearylglucoside and 2.5% of cetyl and stearyl alcohols
Composition 4: Care cream Beeswax 1.5% Apricot kernel oil 13.0%
Preserving agents 0.3% Fragrance 0.4% .beta.-Naphthoxyacetic acid
0.01% Cinnamic acid 0.01% Ethyl cinnamate 0.01% Xanthan 0.5%
Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 5.0% Sterilized demineralized water
69.27% Sucrose mono-di-palmitostearate 3.0% Methylglucose
sesquistearate 3.0% Stearic acid 1.0% Cetyl alcohol 3.0%
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