U.S. patent application number 09/202318 was filed with the patent office on 2001-07-05 for use of fats to replace silicone in the production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations.
Invention is credited to ANSMANN, ACHIM, FABRY, BERND, KAHRE, JOERG, KAWA, ROLF, SEIPEL, WERNER.
Application Number | 20010006652 09/202318 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 7796703 |
Filed Date | 2001-07-05 |
United States Patent
Application |
20010006652 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
KAHRE, JOERG ; et
al. |
July 5, 2001 |
USE OF FATS TO REPLACE SILICONE IN THE PRODUCTION OF COSMETIC
AND/OR PHARMACEUTICAL PREPARATIONS
Abstract
A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition free of silicone
wherein the composition contains a fatty compound comprising an oil
selected from the group consisting of (a) dialkyl ethers, (b)
dialkyl cyclohexanes, (c) Guerbet alcohols, (d) polyol
polyhydroxystearates, and (e) hydroxycarboxylic acid esters.
Inventors: |
KAHRE, JOERG; (MONHEIM,
DE) ; ANSMANN, ACHIM; (ERKRATH, DE) ; FABRY,
BERND; (KORSCHENBROICH, DE) ; KAWA, ROLF;
(MONHEIM, DE) ; SEIPEL, WERNER; (HILDEN,
DE) |
Correspondence
Address: |
JOHN E. DRACH
COGNIS CORPORATION, PATENT DEPT.
2500 RENAISSANCE BLVD.,
SUITE 200
GULPH MILLS
PA
19406
US
|
Family ID: |
7796703 |
Appl. No.: |
09/202318 |
Filed: |
February 4, 1999 |
PCT Filed: |
June 3, 1997 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/EP97/02866 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/400 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q 5/02 20130101; A61Q
5/00 20130101; A61K 8/85 20130101; A61K 8/37 20130101; A61K 8/39
20130101; A61K 8/63 20130101; A61Q 19/00 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/400 |
International
Class: |
A61K 009/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jun 12, 1996 |
DE |
196233836 |
Claims
1. The use of fatty compounds as a silicone substitute in the
production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations,
characterized in that oils selected from the group consisting of
(a) dialkyl ethers, (b) dialkyl cyclohexanes, (c) Guerbet alcohols,
(d) polyol polyhydroxystearates and/or (e) hydroxycarboxylic acid
esters are used.
2. The use claimed in claim 1, characterized in that dialkyl ethers
corresponding to formula (I): 3in which R.sup.1 and R.sup.2
independently of one another represent a linear or branched alkyl
and/or alkenyl radical containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, are
used.
3. The use claimed in claims 1 and 2, characterized in that dialkyl
cyclohexanes corresponding to formula (II): 4in which R.sup.3 and
R.sup.4 independently of one another represent a linear or branched
alkyl and/or alkenyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms and C is
a cyclohexyl group, are used.
4. The use claimed in claims 1 to 3, characterized in that Guerbet
alcohols obtained by self-condensation of linear and/or branched
alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms are used.
5. The use claimed in claims 1 to 4, characterized in that
polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates are used.
6. The use claimed in claims 1 to 5, characterized in that esters
of hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms with
aliphatic alcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms are used.
7. The use claimed in claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the
fatty compounds are used together with nonionic surfactants of the
alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycoside and/or fatty acid-N-alkyl
glucamide type.
8. The use claimed in claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the
fatty compounds and the nonionic surfactants are used in a ratio by
weight of 10:90 to 90:10.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] This invention relates to the use of selected fatty
compounds as a substitute for silicones in the production of
cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations.
[0002] 1. Prior Art
[0003] Silicones are used in skin and hair cosmetics as additives
for influencing feel and luster. Unfortunately, the so-called
build-up effect of silicones is a disadvantage. By this is meant
that, when silicone-containing products are repeatedly applied to
the skin or to the hair, a layer of polymers builds up and is
difficult to remove simply by washing. In the case of hair in
particular, this layer of polymers is undesirable and can interfere
with other treatments, for example waving or dyeing. An overview of
the use of silicones in cosmetics was published, for example, by K.
Schnurrbusch in Seifen- Fettepk-le-Wachse 100, 173, (1974).
[0004] Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention
was to provide silicone substitutes which would not build up in
use, but which would still show at least comparable performance
properties in regard to feel and luster.
[0005] 2. Description of the Invention
[0006] The present invention relates to the use of fatty compounds
as a silicone substitute in the production of cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical preparations which is distinguished by the fact that
oils selected from the group consisting of
[0007] (a) dialkyl ethers,
[0008] (b) dialkyl cyclohexanes,
[0009] (c) Guerbet alcohols,
[0010] (d) Guerbet carbonates,
[0011] (e) ester oils,
[0012] (f) polyol polyhydroxystearates and/or
[0013] (g) hydroxycarboxylic acid esters
[0014] are used.
[0015] It has surprisingly been found that the sensorial evaluation
of the selected oils in regard to feel and luster is at least as
good as that of silicones without any unwanted build-up effect on
skin and hair.
[0016] Dialkyl ethers
[0017] Dialkyl ethers which form component (a) correspond to
formula (I):
R.sup.1--O--R.sup.2 (I)
[0018] in which R.sup.1 and R.sup.2 independently of one another
represent a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical
containing 6 to 22, preferably 8 to 18 and more preferably 12 to 18
carbon atoms. The ethers may have an asymmetrical structure,
although they preferably have a symmetrical structure. Typical
examples are di-n-octyl ether, di-i-octyl ether and di-n-stearyl
ether.
[0019] Dialkyl cyclohexanes
[0020] Dialkyl cyclohexanes which form component (b) correspond to
formula (II):
R.sup.3--[C]--R.sup.4 (II)
[0021] in which R.sup.3 and R.sup.4 independently of one another
represent a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl group
containing 6 to 22, preferably 8 to 18 and more preferably 12 to 18
carbon atoms and C is a cyclohexyl group. Typical examples are
di-n-octyl cyclohexane, di-i-octyl cyclohexane and di-n-stearyl
cyclohexane.
[0022] Guerbet alcohols
[0023] Guerbet alcohols which form component (c) are preferably
obtained by base-catalyzed self-condensation of linear and/or
branched alcohols containing 6 to 22 and preferably 8 to 18 carbon
atoms. An overview of Guerbet alcohols was published by A. J.
O'Lennick in Soap Cosm. Chem. Spec. (April) 52 (1987). Typical
examples are condensation products of technical fatty alcohol cuts
containing 8 to 10 or 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0024] Guerbet carbonates
[0025] Guerbet carbonates which form component (d) are normally
obtained by complete or partial transesterification of dialkyl
carbonates with linear and/or branched alcohols containing 6 to 22,
preferably 8 to 18 and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms [cf.
DE-A1 40 40 154 (Henkel)]. Typical examples are carbonates which
are obtained by transesterification of dimethyl carbonate or
diethyl carbonate with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 10 or 12 to
18 carbon atoms, preferably octanol or cetearyl alcohol.
[0026] Ester oils
[0027] Ester oils which form component (e) are long-chain esters
liquid at room temperature which correspond to formula (III):
R.sup.5CO--OR.sup.6 (III)
[0028] where R.sup.5CO is an aliphatic acyl group containing 6 to
22 carbon atoms and R.sup.6 is an alkyl and/or alkenyl group
containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are esters of
caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid,
lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid,
palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid,
elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid,
elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and
erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof with lauryl alcohol,
isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl
alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol,
elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl
alcohol, eleaostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol,
behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical
mixtures thereof. Ester oils which contain at least 24 and
preferably at least 30 carbon atoms and one double bond in the
fatty acid and fatty alcohol component together are preferred.
Typical examples are oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, behenyl oleate
and cetearyl oleate.
[0029] Polyol polyhydroxystearates
[0030] The polyol component of the polyol polyhydroxystearates
which form component (f) may be derived from substances which
contain at least 2, preferably 3 to 12 and more preferably 3 to 8
hydroxyl groups and 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are
[0031] glycerol and polyglycerol;
[0032] alkylene glycols, such as for example ethylene glycol,
diethylene glycol, propylene glycol;
[0033] methylol compounds, such as in particular trimethylol
ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol
and dipentaerythritol;
[0034] alkyl oligoglucosides containing 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 8
and more preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as
for example methyl and butyl glucoside;
[0035] sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as for
example sorbitol or mannitol,
[0036] sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as for example
glucose or sucrose;
[0037] amino sugars, such as for example glucamine.
[0038] Among the substances which form component (f), reaction
products based on polyglycerol are particularly important by virtue
of their excellent performance properties. It has proved to be of
particular advantage to use selected polyglycerols with the
following homolog distribution (the preferred ranges are shown in
brackets):
[0039] glycerol: 5 to 35 (15 to 30)% by weight
[0040] diglycerols: 15 to 40 (20 to 32)% by weight
[0041] triglycerols: 10 to 35 (15 to 25)% by weight
[0042] tetraglycerols: 5 to 20 ( 8 to 15)% by weight
[0043] pentaglycerols: 2 to 10 ( 3 to 8)% by weight
[0044] oligoglycerols: to 100% by weight
[0045] Hydrocarboxylic acid esters
[0046] The last component (g) is selected from esters of
hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18 and preferably 3 to 12
carbon atoms with aliphatic alcohols containing 1 to 22, preferably
6 to 18 and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples
are esters of lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid,
ricinoleic acid and/or 12-hydroxystearic acid with methanol,
ethanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol,
capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl
alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,
isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl
alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol,
arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol
and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof. It is
preferred to use long-chain hydroxycarboxylic acids, such as
ricinoleic acid and hydroxystearic acid, with short-chain alcohols,
for example methanol or ethanol, or short-chain hydroxycarboxylic
acids, such as lactic acid or citric acid, with long-chain fatty
alcohols, such as for example cocofatty alcohol or cetearyl
alcohol.
[0047] Surfactants
[0048] In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the sensorial
properties of the fatty compounds can be further improved by mixing
with nonionic surfactants, preferably of the alkyl and/or alkenyl
oligoglycoside and/or fatty acid-N-alkyl glucamide type. In this
embodiment, the fatty compounds and the nonionic surfactants may be
used in a ratio by weight of 10:90 to 90:10, preferably in a ratio
by weight of 25:75 to 75:25 and more preferably in a ratio by
weight of 40:60 to 60:40.
[0049] Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides
[0050] Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides are known nonionic
surfactants which correspond to formula (IV):
R.sup.7O--[G].sub.p (IV)
[0051] where R.sup.7 is an alkyl and/or alkenyl radical containing
4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar unit containing 5 or 6 carbon
atoms and p is a number of 1 to 10. They may be obtained by the
relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. EP-A1-0 301 298
and WO 90/03977 are cited as representative of the extensive
literature available on this subject.
[0052] The alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides may be derived from
aldoses or ketoses containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably
glucose. Accordingly, the preferred alkyl and/or alkenyl
oligoglycosides are alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
[0053] The index p in general formula (IV) indicates the degree of
oligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and
oligoglycosides, and is a number of 1 to 10. Whereas p in a given
compound must always be an integer and, above all, may assume a
value of 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is
an analytically determined calculated quantity which is generally a
broken number. Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an
average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably
used. Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides having a degree of
oligomerization of less than 1.7 and, more particularly, between
1.2 and 1.4 are preferred from the applicational point of view.
[0054] The alkyl or alkenyl radical R.sup.7 may be derived from
primary alcohols containing 4 to 11 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon
atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic
alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and the technical
mixtures thereof obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of
technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of
aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides having
a chain length of C.sub.8 to C.sub.10 (DP= 1 to 3), which are
obtained as first runnings in the separation of technical
C.sub.8-18 coconut oil fatty alcohol by distillation and which may
contain less than 6% by weight of C.sub.12 alcohol as an impurity,
and also alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C.sub.9/11
oxoalcohols (DP= 1 to 3) are preferred. In addition, the alkyl or
alkenyl radical R.sup.7 may also be derived from primary alcohols
containing 12 to 22 and preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical
examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,
palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl
alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol,
gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl
alcohol and technical mixtures thereof which may be obtained as
described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated
C.sub.12/14 coconut oil fatty alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3 are
preferred.
[0055] Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides
[0056] Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are nonionic
surfactants which correspond to formula (V): 1
[0057] where R.sup.8CO is an aliphatic acyl radical containing 6 to
22 carbon atoms, R.sup.9 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl
radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or
branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical containing 3 to 12 carbon atoms
and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. The fatty acid N-alkyl
polyhydroxyalkylamides are known compounds which may normally be
obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia,
an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a
fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride.
Processes for their production are described in U.S. Pat. No.
1,985,424, in U.S. Pat. No. 2,016,962 and in U.S. Pat. No.
2,703,798 and in International patent application WO 92/06984. An
overview of this subject by H. Kelkenberg can be found in Tens.
Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988).
[0058] The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably
derived from reducing sugars containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, more
particularly from glucose. Accordingly, the preferred fatty acid
N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides
which correspond to formula (VI): 2
[0059] Preferred fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are
glucamides corresponding to formula (VI) in which R.sup.9 is
hydrogen or an alkyl group and R.sup.8CO represents the acyl
component of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid,
myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid,
isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid,
linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic
acid or erucic acid or technical mixtures thereof. Fatty acid
N-alkyl glucamides (VI) obtained by reductive amination of glucose
with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or
C.sub.12/14 coconut oil fatty acid or a corresponding derivative
are particularly preferred. In addition, the polyhydroxyalkylamides
may also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
Commercial Applications
[0060] The silicone substitutes are suitable for the production of
cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations, preferably skin and
hair treatment preparations, for example hair shampoos, hair
lotions, foam baths, cremes, lotions or emollients. They may also
contain emulsifiers, superfatting agents, stabilizers, waxes,
consistency regulators, thickeners, cationic polymers, silicone
compounds, biogenic agents, antidandruff agents, film formers,
preservatives, hydrotropes, solubilizers, UV filters, dyes and
perfumes as further auxiliaries and additives.
[0061] Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants
from at least one of the following groups:
[0062] adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5
moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to
22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms
and with alkylphenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl
group;
[0063] C.sub.12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of
1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;
[0064] glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and
diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids containing 6 to
22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide adducts thereof;
[0065] adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil
and/or hydrogenated castor oil;
[0066] partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or
saturated C.sub.12/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and
12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol,
dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (for example sorbitol) and
polyglucosides (for example cellulose);
[0067] trialkyl phosphates;
[0068] wool wax alcohols;
[0069] polysiloxane/polyalkyl polyether copolymers and
corresponding derivatives;
[0070] mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid
and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 11 65 574 and
[0071] polyalkylene glycols.
[0072] The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene
oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol
monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of
fatty acids or with castor oil are known commercially available
products. They are homolog mixtures of which the average degree of
alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between the quantities of
ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the
addition reaction is carried out. C.sub.12/18 fatty acid monoesters
and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known
as refatting agents for cosmetic formulations from DE-PS 20 24
051.
[0073] In addition, zwitterionic surfactants may be used as
emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds
which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least
one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called
betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for
example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate,
N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example
coco-acylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and
2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to
18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethyl
hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide
derivative known under the CTFA name of Coco-amidopropyl Betaine is
particularly preferred. Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable
emulsifiers. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds
which, in addition to a C.sub.8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at
least one free amino group and at least one --COOH-- or
--SO.sub.3H-- group in the molecule and which are capable of
forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants
are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric
acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,
N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines,
N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and
alkylaminoacetic acids containing around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in
the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are
N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and
C.sub.12/18 acyl sarcosine. Besides ampholytic emulsifiers,
quaternary emulsifiers may also be used, those of the esterquat
type, especially methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine
ester salts, being particularly preferred.
[0074] The superfatting agents used may be such substances as, for
example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated
lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters,
monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the latter also
serving as foam stabilizers. Suitable consistency regulators are,
above all, fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to
18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides. These
substances are preferably used in combination with alkyl
oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid-N-methyl glucamides of the same
chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable
thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, more particularly
xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses,
carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, relatively high
molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of
fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopols.RTM. [Goodrich]
or Synthalens.RTM. [Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and
polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example,
ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with
polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylol
propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates or alkyl
oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and
ammonium chloride.
[0075] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic
cellulose derivatives such as, for example, the quaternized
hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name of Polymer JR
400.RTM. from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl
ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl
imidazole polymers such as, for example, Luviquate.RTM. (BASF),
condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized
collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium
Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat.RTM.L Grunau),
quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic
silicone polymers such as, for example, Amidomethicone, copolymers
of adipic acid and dimethyl aminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine
(Cartaretine.RTM., Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with
dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat.RTM. 550, Chemviron),
polyaminopolyamides as described, for example, in FR-A 225840 and
crosslinked water-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin
derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally
in microcrystalline distribution, condensation products of
dihaloalkyls such as, for example, dibromobutane with
bis-dialkylamines such as, for example,
bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum such as, for
example, Jaguar.RTM. CBS, Jaguar.RTM. C-17, Jaguar.RTM. C-16 of
Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for example,
Mirapol.RTM. A-15, Mirapol.RTM. AD-1, Mirapol.RTM. AZ-1 of
Miranol.
[0076] Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl
polysiloxanes, methyl phenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and
amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine- and/or
alkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid and
resin-like at room temperature. Typical examples of fats are
glycerides while suitable waxes are inter alia beeswax, carnauba
wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, paraffin wax or microwaxes,
optionally in combination with hydrophilic waxes, for example
cetostearyl alcohol, or partial glycerides. The pearlescent waxes
used may be, in particular, mono- and difatty acid esters of
polyalkylene glycols, partial glycerides or esters of fatty
alcohols with polybasic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic
acids. Suitable stabilizers are metal salts of fatty acids such as,
for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate. Biogenic
agents in the context of the invention are, for example,
tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic
acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA
acids, plant extracts and vitamin complexes. Suitable antidandruff
agents are climbazol, octopirox and zinc pyrethion. Typical film
formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan,
quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl
pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid
series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid
and salts thereof and similar compounds. In addition, hydrotropes
such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols may be
used to improve flow behavior. Suitable preservatives are, for
example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens,
pentanediol or sorbic acid. Suitable dyes are any of the substances
suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes as listed, for example,
in the publication "Kosmetische Frbemittel" of the
Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag
Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106, These dyes are normally
used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the
mixture as a whole.
[0077] The total percentage content of auxiliaries and additives
may be from 1 to 50% by weight and is preferably from 5 to 40% by
weight, based on the particular formulation. The formulations may
be prepared by standard cold or hot processes and are preferably
produced by the phase inversion temperature method.
EXAMPLES
[0078] Various hair shampoos containing the silicone substitutes
according to the invention (formulations F1 to F7) or silicone
(comparison formulation F8) were evaluated for feel and luster on a
scale of 1 (= pleasant soft feel, brilliant luster) to 5 (= hard,
dull) by a panel of 20 volunteers in the known half-head test. For
qualitatively determining the build-up of the oils on the hair,
hair tresses were alternately treated with the test formulations
and dried 10 times and then reduced to ashes. A heavy build up of
oils is indicated by the symbol (+) in the Table whereas the symbol
(-) indicates the absence or substantial absence of oils. The
results represent mean values.
1TABLE 1 Hair shampoos: feel and luster (quantities in % by weight)
Components F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 Sodium Laureth 15 Sulfate
Cocoamidopropyl 3 Betaine PEG Distearate 3 Dicaprylyl ether 1 -- --
-- -- -- -- -- Dicaprylyl -- 1 -- -- -- -- -- -- cyclohexane
Octyldodecanol -- -- 1 -- -- -- -- -- Octyldodecyl -- -- -- 1 -- --
-- -- carbonate Oleyl erucate -- -- -- -- 1 -- -- -- PEG
hydroxystearate -- -- -- -- -- 1 -- -- Oleyl lactylate -- -- -- --
-- -- 1 -- Dimethicone -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 1 NaCl 0.5 Water to 100
Evaluation (half-head test) - Feel 2 2.5 2.5 1.5 2 1.5 2 2.5 -
Luster 1 1 1.5 2.5 2 2 2 3 - Build-up -- -- -- -- -- -- -- +
[0079] Hair aftertreatment formulations F9 to F15 and comparison
product F16 were tested in the same way. The results are set out in
Table 2.
2TABLE 2 Hair aftertreatment formulations: feel and luster
(quantities in % by weight) Components F9 F10 F11 F12 F13 F14 F15
F16 Cetearylalcohol 3 Cetrimmonium 4 chloride Glyceryl 3 Stearate
Dicaprylyl 1 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- ether Dicaprylyl -- 1 -- -- -- --
-- -- cyclohexane Octyldodecanol -- -- 1 -- -- -- -- --
Octyldodecyl -- -- -- 1 -- -- -- -- carbonate Oleyl erucate -- --
-- -- 1 -- -- -- PEG -- -- -- -- -- 1 -- -- hydroxystearate Oleyl
lactylate -- -- -- -- -- -- 1 -- Dimethicone -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 1
NaCl 0.5 Water to 100 Evaluation (half-head test) - Feel 2.5 2 1.5
1.5 2.5 1 2.5 3 - Luster 1 1.5 1 2 2.5 2 2.5 3.5 - Build-up -- --
-- -- -- -- -- +
[0080] The panel tests show that the use of the fatty compounds
according to the invention leads to formulations which, when
applied to the hair, are judged to be better than the comparison
formulations containing silicones and which, at the same time, have
the advantage of no build-up effect.
* * * * *